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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Western USA
    Posts
    107

    Driver Side door lock won't come down to lock position

    The driver side lock won't come down: to be the lock position. It won't respond to the key or central lock button being pushed. But the passenger side will respond. If I have to lock the driver's door, I have to physically push down and then use the door lever switch to exit the car. From the outside, I have to use the key to turn the door to locking position and then turn the other way to unlock the door. I felt a resistant or impediment while I turn the key. It's usually not this way, in the past when the turn was smooth. I don't think it is the GM5 module(as my other door locks\unlocks fine)

    Any ideas on what to replace on the drive's door or do? Thanks. In the meantime I will continue to look for the solution online.
    Last edited by thinkpad240; 06-04-2024 at 07:27 PM. Reason: spelling

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Independence KY
    Posts
    2,900
    I wouldn’t even begin to know, honestly. I’ve never heard of this issue before. Have you taken the door panel off to inspect inside?
    2005 BMW 330i ZHP - BMWP calipers/intake/strut bar/shifter, M3 CSL front/M3 rear rotors, Coby wraps interior, BBS CH wheels, Eagle Eye LED tails, LED fog lights, GC coilovers, Sprint Booster/sport button mod, 4.5 LCM w/ programming, Xtrons 9inch HU, BSW stg1, dynamat, M3 sedan dead pedal, oCarbon CF interior trim, CF seat backs, 2x2 CF MTECH2 diffuser, CF cabin filter cover



  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Liberty Township, OH
    Posts
    37,981
    Quote Originally Posted by BADCLOWN View Post
    I wouldn’t even begin to know, honestly. I’ve never heard of this issue before. Have you taken the door panel off to inspect inside?
    This is going to be the best bet. Open er up and cycle the lock.

    Could be that the circlip (24) is getting hung up while trying to pull rod down. Possible that motor only works in one direction?

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    Call Me Dane l 2/2004 330i ZHP l 18x8 ET45 BBS CK's wrapped with Michelin Pilot Sport AS3+ @ 245-40-18 l KW V1 Coilovers in front l KW V1 springs w/ Bilstein B8 dampeners in rear l BMW Performance Rotors l UUC StrutBarbarian l Racing Dynamics Rear Strut Bar l Jim Conforti Shark Injector l Light Birch Interior Trim l Bimmian Celly Mount l M3 Trunk Mat l l e90 Performance E-Brake & Shift Knob l M3 Tri-Stitched Boots l AL Headlight Retrofit with ZKW Lenses l CobyWheel Wrap w/M3 Stitching l LCM sw 4.5 triple blink and rear fogs l Maple Interior Trim

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Lexington, KY
    Posts
    5,009
    I agree that it sounds mechanical as if something it interfering with movement of a part.
    Thanks Dane for providing the exploded view of the mechanism.
    325i, 2005, 5MT, Silvergrey, leatherette, Sport package; CDV delete, KONI STR-T & KYB Excel-G, Weisslichts, Stewart H2O pump

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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Western USA
    Posts
    107
    Working on replacing the door lock actuator tonight. Watch some youtube videos. I can across some dead nuts(the 3 T30) that hold the lock and then another dead nut 5mm holding the window glass to the rail; trying not to shear the insides.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Western USA
    Posts
    107
    After successfully replacing the door lock actuator: I experienced a host of new problems.
    1) The 4 yellow corner lights and red clown flashing lights don't come on anymore, after using the remote control to lock and unlock the car. I pulled both negative and positive cables out of the battery for over 30 minutes to drain electricity and put them back on. No changes. I thought the problem might be due to leaving the negative wire off overnight. I cleared all ODBC code.
    2) My window isn't moving smoothly anymore like the passenger's window. It seems to be grinding something as it moves. The window does not move slightly up to seal position when the door is closed nor moves down slightly when I open the door, so I have to move it down a notch so the window will close with the door properly. Tried a youtube video, about rolling windows down and up for 5 seconds, but no luck.
    3) Both the remote key and the center door lock always work properly for the passenger lock and but only works some times for the driver's lock. Though, the interior lever and exterior handle works smoothly for the door, I don't think it is #24 piece causing the problem now as it seems to be an electrical problem now or the shop needs to re-program. The driver's handle can only be opened or in locked position by turning the key outside, or when I am inside the car, I have to use the door lever to open and the central lock to lock after a few pushes of the button. Also, tried the key fob repairing to car Youtube video where I push the lock buttons 3x withing 10 seconds, still no luck.
    Last edited by thinkpad240; 06-18-2024 at 09:33 PM.

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