I wonder if the cracks are too deep that doing a +.5mm bore would fix them?
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I wonder if the cracks are too deep that doing a +.5mm bore would fix them?
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Are you sure they are cracks and not just lines where the pistons were sitting? Looks that way from the pics.
If there are cracks in the cylinder walls, scrap the block
Glad he gave you a refund.
Just dropped my block of at the machine shop. They ARE going to be able to fix the four bolt holes where the bell housing bolts to the block on my original block. They looked at my block and the top is completely level at factory specs. No warping! They also said my cylinders only have .001 thousandths of wear and aren't out of round! They just need ball honed. They needed me to get the bolts and the bell housing and bring them in so they can do the thread repair and drill out the other two bolts that are still in the block.
So the machine shop said $40 to clean the block and $35 to ball hone the cylinders, and then whatever the labor charges are for fixing the bolt holes. After the block is done I'll take the head in and have it cleaned and have the valves and valve seats ground.
Can't wait to have all the machine work done and start rebuilding l!
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Glad you could salvage the old block... prices sound very reasonable
Yea that's impressive to have the bores in such great shape at that mileage
Finally after finishing several trips for work I was able to go pickup the engine block!
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Now what they don't tell you is the bottom two bolts that hold the transmission to the block are not long enough to mount it to the engine stand....so a trip to the fastener store was in order. Picked up two M12x90 and 1.75 pitch bolts and she is now mounted firmly on the stand. Now to take the head in and have the valves and seats ground, and have one broken exhaust manifold stud removed. Then it will be time to put it all back together.....
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Putting it back together is the fun part! I thoroughly enjoyed my last engine rebuild.
Make sure you use plenty of assembly lube and prime the oil pump
Putting in some elbow grease!
Before:
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After (Aluminum Wheel Cleaner and Wire Brush):
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Didn't get rid of the carbon but definitely got ride of the aluminum oxide. Looking much better!
Still have a little more work to do to get it all.
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It’s been a while since I’ve done anything, but it’s time to get this finished.
Just ordered my rebuild kit and it should be here on the 12th. $479 for everything in the picture.
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I did take the crank in to have them polish it and that should be done on the 10th.
After I get everything in it will be time to put this engine back together. I cannot wait to have my car back on the road!
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LIKE
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This might help:
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...d-Video-Series
Got an email from the seller of the parts kit and they are short one piston right now. They asked if I wanted just the 5 or if I wanted six .5mm oversized. I said to go ahead and ship the kit one piston short and requested a discount. I’d rather not have to take the block in and have it the bores oversized.
The machine shop is going to take the new pistons and the old ones and balance them out to make a good set of pistons.
Hopefully the kit is here next week. I was hoping I would have it by Friday but that’s just how it goes sometimes.
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Might get better gas miles as a 5-banger [emoji6]. Good luck with the project.
Just got the crankshaft back from being polished....looks brand new!
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Parts have arrived!
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I’ll post pics of the parts later this week as it’s hockey night and it’s the playoffs.
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Does anyone have a timing kit I could borrow?
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Well finally started putting the engine together!
First road block....the new exhaust valve guides are .0010 bigger than the factory ones so the valve stem seals don’t fit. Machine shop is looking for the correct ones. I also dropped off the piston heads and old pistons so they can balance and assemble the pistons.
I installed the crankshaft and I’m ready to install the pistons once the machine shop has completed them. Plastigauge sucks.....
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New Valve Stem seals installed on Intake side.
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New Valve Stem Seals
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Plastigauge
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Oil Squirters installed.
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Crankshaft installed.
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Put in some work today!
Cleaned up the top of the block.
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Gapped the piston rings and installed them on the pistons.
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Then I installed the pistons.
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Installed the oil baffle and pump.
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Then I installed all of the valve springs. That took a long time. I was very careful with the keepers because you don’t want one of those flying across the room. You’ll never find it.
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I put about 8 hours of solid work today with breaks here and there. I’m ordering new timing chain guides tonight from ECS and they should be here sometime next week. Once I get those on I can put on the timing chain, timing chain cover, and then mount the head on the block.
It’s really starting to come together. I can’t wait to be finished and driving again!
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Put in some more good work this weekend. Just waiting on my timing kit to arrive so I can set the timing, install the rebuilt Vanos, and put on the valve cover.
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Timing kit arrived.
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Now I’m just waiting on a knock sensor, vacuum hose, fuel injectors, and a motor mount bracket.
It’s almost done! This has definitely been an experience and it’s been a lot of fun!
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Any update?
So I did a thing this week....https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...938a46fe5f.jpg
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Went to start her for the first time and I didn’t have the negative battery terminal tightened all the way and spent the next two hours trying to figure out why it would crank but not start. Then I found this fuse block and one of the 30amp fuses was blown.
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After replacing the blown fuse she started right up!
The next day I filled the cooling system and went to take her on her first test drive, aaaaannnnnddddd proceeded to blow out the high pressure power steering line. SMH I have one ordered and it should be here tomorrow. Then I will be driving!!
It’s been allot of hard work to get to toss point. I can’t wait to drive her again. Last time she drove was September of 2014....
The hood needs a fresh coat of paint from sitting.
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Cheers!
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Nice!! Congrats!
Very nice. But man, I thought having my car sit for 1.5 years was long...
It’s finally home. Now time for a deeeeeeep cleaning and detail. Then on to the paint issues. Felt amazing to drive her again after 4 and a half years!
God I missed this car!
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I remember how I felt, taking my car out of storage after 1.5 years. Can't imagine the torture of not driving your baby after 4 years!
What a day....
I got the car registered again and I’m working on the warranty for the paint that is peeling on the hood. I then went to Discount Tire to get my tires squared away and they snapped FOUR of the lug stud bolts. I then had to have the car towed to a shop and have a new wheel hub/bearing installed on the car. Discount Tire paid for the new hub/bearing and all new lug stud bolts ($641). The tires are now squared away and I’m good to go.
I need a drink...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...755ee59e2d.jpg
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Snapped? What the heck?! Glad they paid for it.
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I had both driver and passenger airbags replaced today at the dealership and somehow my brake line got caught under the axle on my driver rear. It wore through the brake line and now it needs replaced. They wanted $385 to replace the brake line.
I had the car towed home for $45. My friend works for the towing company so he gave me a discount.
I went to NAPA and got a new brake line ($26) and will be replacing it next Tuesday after I get back from the lake.
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I also ordered a new Brake Backing Plate because my parking brake retaining pins have pulled through the backing plate due to rust. The dealership price matched FCPEuro and sold it to me for $48.13. That will be here Tuesday and I will replace it. They wanted around $500 to replace that part.
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Then the car will be off to the body shop to have the front end re-painted as it’s peeling down to the primer on the hood. The body shop is covering the paint under their lifetime warranty since I had a new hood installed and painted back in June of 2011.
I will also be ordering new exhaust brackets as my car seemingly hasn’t had the one from the trans since I’ve owned the car.
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I can see the end in sight!
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FYI the brake rotor backing plates can't be installed without removing the hub in the rear.
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Ehhhh technically you can do it. You just have to cut a bit of it out that you don’t realistically need and then just slide it on.
If you cut the red lines you can then slide it on and bolt it in. Shouldn’t loose any structural properties.
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