The Oil Thread [Archive] - BMW E46 330 ZHP For Sale Forum

MasterC17

01-30-2011, 05:20 PM

MasterC17's Recommended Oil's for an E46 Non-M:

*All Oil's Here are Group IV or Group V Oil's.

Oil Change DIY (http://www.my330i.com/lof.php)

Non-Xi E46's Take: 6.5 Quarts
Xi E46's Take: 7.5 Quarts

Mobil 1 0W-40 (http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/motoroil/oils/mobil_1_0w-40.aspx) ($7.99): A decent oil, good for a daily driver.
BMW 5W-30 (http://www.castrol.com/castrol/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_south_africa/STAGING/local_assets/downloads/t/SLX_Professional_Longtec_BMW_LL015W_30_TDS.pdf) ($6.25): Best bang for your buck. P/N: 07 51 0 017 866.
German (Euro) Castrol 0W-30 (http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_usa/STAGING/local_assets/downloads/p,q/pds_syntec_usa.pdf) ($7.99): A decent oil, good for a daily driver.
Amsoil 5W-40 European (http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/afl.aspx) ($9.20): A better oil, but will cost you more.
Amsoil 10W-40 Premium (http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amo.aspx) ($9.00): Contains high doses of Zinc & Phos - Good for FI Applications.
Red Line 5W-30 (http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=2&pcid=21) ($10.49): A good racing oil, do a 50/50 or 66/33 mix with the 5W-40.
Red Line 5W-40 (http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=3&pcid=21) ($10.95): A good racing oil, do a 50/50 or 66/33 mix with the 5W-30.
Total Quartz 9000 0W-40 (http://www.lubadmin.com/upload/produit/FichePDF/lang_1/1175.pdf) (Not Sold in US?): A good oil if you can find it, not sure if you can though. Popular in Europe.
Liqui-Moly Synthoil Energy 0W-40 (http://www.chemical-check.de/clientversion/pdf1/956/2050LMUS_0005_21-01-2009_US.pdf) ($12.49): A good brand of oil that will work in our cars (but expensive).

And undisputedly the best filter for our cars is factory (Mann) P/N: 11427512300.

If you decide you want to run an oil not on this list either ask or buy one that meets the following. Our cars like to run oil that has a Viscocity @ 100°C of 11-14 (cSt). I probably wouldn't buy an oil that goes out of this range. Your Winter (W) weight should be 0, 5, or 10. Your upper number should be 30 or 40. If you jump out of these ranges you risk hurting the engine.

This post will be updated and revised as time progresses.

zhpnsnv

01-30-2011, 05:42 PM

Unless you intend to try all of those oils in _your_ engine then send them out to be analyzed, you will never have an actual answer to that question besides basic subjective conjecture.

So the real question is: which of those do you feel most comfortable with putting in your car and spending your $ on? Me? I like the BMW oil every 7,500 miles, despite the fact that there is plenty of evidence out there that intermediate changes aren't necessary.

kayger12

01-30-2011, 05:52 PM

So the real question is: which of those do you feel most comfortable with putting in your car and spending your $ on? Me? I like the BMW oil every 7,500 miles, despite the fact that there is plenty of evidence out there that intermediate changes aren't necessary.

+1

MasterC17

01-30-2011, 05:55 PM

Well I guess I feel 'comfortable' with any of the four I mentioned (BMW Castrol, Mobil 1, Redline, & Total). I'm changing the oil every 4,000 miles, even though, as stated it probably isn't necessary. However, I know I'm not 100% happy with the Mobil 1, so I guess I'm trying to figure out which one I should try next. Given, without sending the oil out I'm not ever really going to learn anything solid but I guess whichever one I feel performs the best will be the one I stick with.

danewilson77

01-30-2011, 06:13 PM

M1 0W-40

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JohnnyGraphic

01-30-2011, 06:15 PM

Heads up:
Costco has a 6 pack case of Mobil 1 5-30 for $35.49 with a $9 off coupon = $26.49 or $4.42/Qt.

Johnny

danewilson77

01-30-2011, 06:17 PM

5W-30 does not meet the spec johnny...

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JohnnyGraphic

01-30-2011, 06:33 PM

5W-30 does not meet the spec johnny...

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Good catch! I've been using 5W-30 the last 2 times...Ugh.

Correct oil is Mobil 1 0-40 or BMW 5-30

Sorry about that everybody!

Johnny

MasterC17

01-31-2011, 08:24 AM

Where would I send the oil out to be analyzed and how much would it cost roughly? I think I'm going to go with the Total 5W-40 and see how that does. After that I'll probably try Redline.

Marcus-SanDiego

01-31-2011, 08:31 AM

I think most people use Blackstone for the oil analysis.

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?737-Oil-Analysis-Anyone-do-them&highlight=blackstone

MasterC17

01-31-2011, 08:57 AM

I think most people use Blackstone for the oil analysis.

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?737-Oil-Analysis-Anyone-do-them&highlight=blackstone

Thanks, I'll get a sample next time I do the oil change at 4k (sometime in March probably) and send it out to them.

danewilson77

01-31-2011, 09:12 AM

Where would I send the oil out to be analyzed and how much would it cost roughly? I think I'm going to go with the Total 5W-40 and see how that does. After that I'll probably try Redline.

Yeah...just tell them you want the kit....they mail it to your house....then when you send the sample, you send them a check......its about $35.00, inless you want some extra analysis performed....but not more than $50.00

nk_zhp

01-31-2011, 10:17 AM

I was starting to worry about the future of ZHPMafia as a self sustained forum... but then I saw an oil thread... Now I know we are going to be ok :)

... Elf/Total... VERY good stuff! Using it in the M3, haven't done oil analysis with it yet but I do have a baseline with RedLine 10W40 so we'll see how it stands up.

MasterC17

01-31-2011, 02:27 PM

danewilson77

01-31-2011, 03:28 PM

Every car forum needs an oil thread! Happy to hear the Elf is good. I'd love to see the analysis' compared side by side.

But only one oil thread...

MasterC17

02-22-2011, 08:14 AM

Ok, based upon my research I have opted to go with Red Line 5W-30 - especially because my engine will be running cooler I will need the lower viscosity. So, based on my research I recommend the following:

Mobil 1: Not bad oil, but not great. It seems all their oils are group 4 which is better than most manufacturers can say. 0W-40 will work fine in our cars but I wouldn't say it is your best option.
BMW Castrol: The only Group 4 oil Castrol makes other than their Syntec 0W-30 and a pretty decent oil at that. Based upon it's price it is the best option for most people and it's 'factory' (running it in my Dad's ZHP & Mom's X5 3.0).
Amsoil: A very good brand. All their oils are group 4 (other than XL). Their 5W-40 European blend will work well but their 10W-40 Premium Protection contains higher doses of Zinc & Phos - definitely a plus for people running turbo applications; I would recommend.
Red Line: One of only a few Group 5 Oil manufacturers, and not a terrible price at that. Designed for use in track cars but can also be used on the street. It seems most people use 5W-30. Note it will run thinner at operating temp than most with a stock thermostat. The 5W-40 is actually closer to factory specs so it will probably work better for most people.

I would personally not recommend any Group 3 oils (which is most) unless you plan on changing it often and at small intervals - and even then...no.

Group 4 Oils: German Castrol 0W-30, BMW Castrol, Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Amsoil (except XL-Series), Torco, Elf (Some?), Brad Penn (Some?), ???
Group 5 Oils: Red Line, Motul, Maxima, Torco, ???

And undisputedly the best filter for our cars is factory (Mann).

It's not easy to figure out what group each oil is so you have to do your homework. Hope this helps some.

nk_zhp

02-22-2011, 08:31 AM

Elf/Total has great LL-01 oil as well. PAO based, Group IV. Seems like a popular choice across the pond.

http://www.lubadmin.com/upload/produit/FichePDF/lang_1/162.pdf

gr330zhp

02-22-2011, 11:18 AM

I do BMW 5W-30 Synthetic every 3k. I know most of you guys will say it is not necessary at such soon intervals, but whatever...haha

I use Mobil-1 5W-30 Synthetic every 3k on my Jetta which is a 1.8T. These motors are very prone to oil sludge, so I do whatever I can to prevent that. My prior/current sister's Audi 2.8 V6 I always used Mobil 1 5W-30 every 3k miles. At 100k when doing the VCGs the motor was SPOTLESS under the valve covers...I was quite happy :)

Kind of close-up but here is a shot
http://i378.photobucket.com/albums/oo223/cruisineuro/30Vvalvecover.jpg

danewilson77

02-22-2011, 11:22 AM

^That is not necessary...

Marcus-SanDiego

02-22-2011, 11:25 AM

Stathi, I'd buy a car from you, sir.

gr330zhp

02-22-2011, 12:27 PM

^That is not necessary...

:rofl :rofl

Stathi, I'd buy a car from you, sir.

Haha thanks Marcus! :)

danewilson77

02-22-2011, 01:02 PM

:rofl :rofl

Haha thanks Marcus! :)

:innocent

Nivo

02-22-2011, 01:53 PM

old study but a good read:

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/oil-life.html

MasterC17

02-22-2011, 06:09 PM

Elf/Total has great LL-01 oil as well. PAO based, Group IV. Seems like a popular choice across the pond.

http://www.lubadmin.com/upload/produit/FichePDF/lang_1/162.pdf

Can you confirm which Elf/Total Oil's are Group 4 PAO Based? I found contradicting data on Bob Is the Oil Guy. The best I got was this:

For the Quartz 9000 series:
0w30 = Group III (severely refined mineral-based products)
0w40 = Group IV (Polyalfaolefin, PAO)
5w30 = Group III
5w40 = Group III
5w40 NF = Group III/IV
Energy 0w30 = Group IV
Future 5w30 = Group III

nk_zhp

02-22-2011, 06:18 PM

If you found that then I am wrong about it being Group IV. The Total Racing 15W50 is (I use it in the M now) and I assumed that fell into the same category. You know what they say about assuming :)

danewilson77

02-22-2011, 06:57 PM

If you found that then I am wrong about it being Group IV. The Total Racing 15W50 is (I use it in the M now) and I assumed that fell into the same category. You know what they say about assuming :)

The first 3 letters spell ass? :rofl

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MasterC17

02-22-2011, 08:05 PM

If you found that then I am wrong about it being Group IV. The Total Racing 15W50 is (I use it in the M now) and I assumed that fell into the same category. You know what they say about assuming :)

I have also read that all of their Racing oils are Group IV, so you're safe!

:rofl Dane

AzkotikBMW

02-22-2011, 08:22 PM

How many quarts do you guys usually buy/put in when you do an oil-change? I've heard anything from 5-7 quarts is what it takes to do the oil-change on our cars. Does anyone have an exact number?

Marcus-SanDiego

02-22-2011, 08:39 PM

I believe the official number is 6.9 quarts. So, I'd get 7.

billschusteriv

02-22-2011, 08:44 PM

It also varies for Xi and non-Xi.

danewilson77

02-23-2011, 02:45 AM

It also varies for Xi and non-Xi.

7.5 for Xi? You must have a diff engine....

MrMaico

02-23-2011, 04:50 AM

7.5 for Xi? You must have a diff engine....

Different design/shape of oilpan. I believe one of the front halfshafts actually runs through the pan.

danewilson77

02-23-2011, 04:56 AM

ok....thanks.

MasterC17

02-23-2011, 05:33 AM

I've heard 6.5 for non-Xi and 7.5 for Xi. Usually a good idea to buy an extra quart as well.

billschusteriv

02-23-2011, 05:56 AM

7.5 for Xi? You must have a diff engine....

Different design/shape of oilpan.

This.

But for the past two oil and filter changes (and after swapping to a different Xi engine in my car), I've only been able to get 7 qts in before I'm at the top of the dipstick.

Even though, I'll still buy 8 qts each time - I use a qt in my new used engine about every 6k miles.

MasterC17

02-23-2011, 06:19 AM

Updated the original post to my recommended oils. Also can a Mod change the title to "The Oil Thread" or something of the sort?

EDIT: Thanks Kayger!

kayger12

02-23-2011, 06:22 AM

Updated the original post to my recommended oils. Also can a Mod change the title to "The Oil Thread" or something of the sort?

Done.

Also gonna move this over to the Maintenance Forum.

MrMaico

02-23-2011, 09:27 AM

German Castrol sounds like a good oil, just wish it wasn't so hard to find. I know some guys that work at an oil distributor so one of these days I am going to ask them if they can get me a couple of cases.

kayger12

02-23-2011, 11:37 AM

EDIT: Thanks Kayger!

No problem, MC.

Darin Worthington

02-26-2011, 04:45 PM

danewilson77

02-26-2011, 04:58 PM

There is a Castrol euro edge that meets the LL01 spec.

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Darin Worthington

02-26-2011, 05:07 PM

Dane, I do understand that, however I was just wonder why Castrol would package different oils in the same container? It sound like false advertisement to me.

mikeyb74

02-28-2011, 09:23 AM

I use Lubro Moly 5w30 5 Liter $34.95 1 Liter $7.95 ea

http://www.bavauto.com/assets/imglib500/1137lm.jpg

danewilson77

02-28-2011, 10:02 AM

Wouldn't it make more sense to just buy 15 litres and be good for two changes?

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mikeyb74

02-28-2011, 12:22 PM

Wouldn't it make more sense to just buy 15 litres and be good for two changes?

True but currently I do not have anywhere to store extra parts.

MasterC17

02-28-2011, 01:20 PM

So if I am reading this correctly then Castrol makes two different types of oil packaged in the same contrainers: Castrol Edge?
Not that it would make sense, but why have two different types of oil in the same container? I know that the normal "Black" bottle is Group III, but the "Overseas" Edge is Group IV? So would that make the U.S. version of the Edge Group III as well? Yeah lots of questions, but why would it say that Edge works for BMW in Longlife 01 TIS?

Castrol Edge & Castrol Syntec have merged into Castrol EDGE with Syntec Power Technology. Only their European 0W-30 is a Group IV and only their European 0W-30 meets BMW LL01 Spec. This specific oil is commonly referred to as 'German Castrol' because it is made in Germany but it's really just their European Formula 0W-30 found in the US.

I use Lubro Moly 5w30 5 Liter $34.95 1 Liter $7.95 ea

http://www.bavauto.com/assets/imglib500/1137lm.jpg

That particular oil is a Group III oil. It says HC-Snythese which means Hydrocracked (Group 3). Other terms on German Oils are TOP TEC (Group III) and Voll-Synthese (Groups IV or V). Another easy way to tell (in English) is if it says "Synthetic Technology" you know it's a Group III. If it says "Fully Synthetic Motor Oil" you know it's a Group IV. For example, their 0W-40 is a Group IV - in fact I would add it to the list but I seem to have lost the ability to edit any posts I made prior to today...

http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/mediendb.nsf/gfx2/2050_200_100.jpg/$file/2050_200_100.jpg

danewilson77

02-28-2011, 01:24 PM

True but currently I do not have anywhere to store extra parts.

OK.....no prob. I just thought maybe I was missing something...

Darin Worthington

02-28-2011, 05:16 PM

No, there are two different bottle colors:
The actual gold Edge bottle, just like the BMW Motorsport oil:

http://partimages.genpt.com/largeimages/853464.jpg

And the old Black syntech bottle, now with edge....

http://partimages.genpt.com/largeimages/5172.jpg

It is the same exact bottle out in the euro market as the gold market. I am just trying to figure out why Castrol U.S.A will claim that this is the same stuff in the U.K. bottle is all.

Yeah I do ask really stupid questions that normally most folks don't have an answer too...

MasterC17

02-28-2011, 06:24 PM

It is the same exact bottle out in the euro market as the gold market. I am just trying to figure out why Castrol U.S.A will claim that this is the same stuff in the U.K. bottle is all.

Yeah I do ask really stupid questions that normally most folks don't have an answer too...

Yup, I'm officially confused :rofl.

The black bottle is Castrol Edge with Syntec while the Gold bottle is Castrol Edge with Titanium as of right now. No idea if anything is different from US to UK. I think they're both Group 3 other than the 0W-30 European formula. The reason that BMW says the Edge will work is because they list both group III and IV oil's in their approved list (http://www.bmwusa.com/Standard/Content/Owner/SyntheticEngineOils.aspx). Neither Pennzoil or Valvoline are Group IV's.

danewilson77

02-28-2011, 06:27 PM

It doesn't matter. Neither one meets the spec.

Darin Worthington

03-02-2011, 05:20 PM

MasterC17

03-02-2011, 07:05 PM

Yes Dane you are correct, unless I import some from the UK, or buy some off the shelf in Germany, which I will be PCS's to in July :) If there is no Castrol approved oil here in the U.S. then why would BMW put it on their oil cap? I guess they don't want change the oil cap because we folks in the U.S. cannot get "good" Castrol oil.

There WAS a BMW approved Castrol Oil: Castrol Syntec European Formula SAE 0W-30. However, they do not sell that specific formula anymore. However, the new stuff should work fine.

pleasecorrupt

04-30-2011, 09:33 PM

zhpnsnv

05-01-2011, 05:23 AM

I'm still so confused. Need to do a oil change soon and I have not decided on what oil I want to use. Can someone break down the numbers for me and how the classes come in to play / how they're determined. Also, is this the the mann filter you guys refer to.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CB7DG6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=zhpcom-20&linkCode=as2&camp=217145&creative=399349&creativeASIN=B000CB7DG6

Honestly, if you're confused between the classes and groups of oils, it makes much more sense just to use the BMW oil. There is no evidence out there that I've seen that shows the BMW oil is inappropriate for our engines. But seriously, if you or anyone else has that evidence, I'd like to see it.

I used the BMW oil in my MINI until I started tracking it a lot. I was noticing very high oil temps, so I switched to Redline. For that car in the driving I was doing, it made sense to switch based on the information I could find.

MasterC17

05-01-2011, 07:59 AM

MrMaico

05-01-2011, 08:45 AM

And if you don't have a dealer close by this is a good option....

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=MorePartInfo&PartID=747351&siteid=214672&catalogid=4462

Washburn

05-01-2011, 09:17 AM

I think it's important to mention that the castrol syntec 0w-30 mentioned in the OP has to be the EUROPEAN formula (there's a US version also, which doesn't meet LL01)

pleasecorrupt

05-01-2011, 11:13 AM

Reason I ask is cause there's a sale at local store :P

Theres 5w20, 5w30 and 10w30 here, are any of these better than BMW oil for driving in California.

danewilson77

05-01-2011, 12:16 PM

^Not BMW LL-01 approved

pleasecorrupt

05-01-2011, 12:31 PM

So i guess that's a no go o.o

danewilson77

05-01-2011, 12:34 PM

So i guess that's a no go o.o

Yeah...it has to say euro blend to be LL-01 approved.

pleasecorrupt

05-01-2011, 12:46 PM

And if you don't have a dealer close by this is a good option....

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=MorePartInfo&PartID=747351&siteid=214672&catalogid=4462

Well in that case since I'm still a couple thousand miles away from oil change I'll stalk the oil isles and see what I can find since their sale price of $69 is the retail price is my price, lol look at the link if you don't know what I mean.

danewilson77

05-01-2011, 12:57 PM

LOL............

Marcus-SanDiego

05-01-2011, 02:36 PM

Well in that case since I'm still a couple thousand miles away from oil change I'll stalk the oil isles and see what I can find since their sale price of $69 is the retail price is my price, lol look at the link if you don't know what I mean.

Yeah. That's a heck of a deal. $69 is the MSRP. They're willing to sell it to you for $69. Excellent.

danewilson77

05-01-2011, 04:22 PM

Yeah. That's a heck of a deal. $69 is the MSRP. They're willing to sell it to you for $69. Excellent.

I'll take 3!

Droid + Tapatalk = FTW!

MrMaico

05-04-2011, 07:04 AM

Well in that case since I'm still a couple thousand miles away from oil change I'll stalk the oil isles and see what I can find since their sale price of $69 is the retail price is my price, lol look at the link if you don't know what I mean.

"Yes, the total online price is above msrp as the shipping is already included on these heavy packages."

danewilson77

05-04-2011, 07:13 AM

$69 shipped ain't too bad....but if you buy your filters by the case....~$50/qty 10, and buy your oil somewhere (Been getting M1 at NAPA for $6.50/qt), you're looking at <$50 per oil change...

MasterC17

05-04-2011, 11:17 AM

$69 shipped ain't too bad....but if you buy your filters by the case....~$50/qty 10, and buy your oil somewhere (Been getting M1 at NAPA for $6.50/qt), you're looking at <$50 per oil change...

BMW Oil retails for $6.25 per quart and the BMW filters are $12.25 each. So, $56 per oil change using all factory stuff. Not bad in my opinion. Makes more sense to go to your local dealer rather than Tischer here.

kayger12

05-04-2011, 12:46 PM

BMW Oil retails for $6.25 per quart and the BMW filters are $12.25 each. So, $56 per oil change using all factory stuff. Not bad in my opinion. Makes more sense to go to your local dealer rather than Tischer here.

Yeah-- good point MC-- gonna have to start doing that. I've been paying $69 for the oil and filter delivered from Tischer.

danewilson77

05-04-2011, 01:12 PM

If you go to BMW dealer....get the oem BMW 5W-30...with 10% off CCA discount, and buy your filters by the case....I was down around $48/change....

kayger12

05-04-2011, 01:13 PM

If you go to BMW dealer....get the oem BMW 5W-30...with 10% off CCA discount, and buy your filters by the case....I was down around $48/change....

Good plan. I like.

az3579

05-04-2011, 03:56 PM

I bought all of my oil change materials for less than $50 total. Walmart had the 5-quart jugs of Mobil1 0W-30 (Green label - Advanced Fuel Economy) around mid $20's and bought two extra 1-quart containers at about $6.2x a piece if I remember correctly. Bought my OE Mann filter at Advance Auto for cheap as well. Bam, there's an oil change.

Next go around I'm getting a new oil pan bolt and washer.

Washburn

05-04-2011, 03:58 PM

That syntec is not LL-01, afaik. (doesn't matter if you don't care about it)

az3579

05-04-2011, 04:04 PM

That syntec is not LL-01, afaik. (doesn't matter if you don't care about it)

It doesn't matter to me. In my eyes oil is oil and as long as oil changes are done, it doesn't matter what I use.
Besides, Mobil1 is an excellent brand.

0W-40 wasn't available at WalMart when I went.

Washburn

05-04-2011, 04:09 PM

Interesting perspective. I am sure it will work out for you, though.
i think auto zone carries mobil 0w-40, btw

az3579

05-04-2011, 04:14 PM

Interesting perspective. I am sure it will work out for you, though.
i think auto zone carries mobil 0w-40, btw

Haven't tried AutoZone. I tried Advance Auto (literally 1 minute from my house; right around the corner) and WalMart when I was in the area.
Will give AutoZone a go next time around. Hopefully their prices aren't much different from WalMart's.

danewilson77

05-04-2011, 05:52 PM

Interesting perspective. I am sure it will work out for you, though.
i think auto zone carries mobil 0w-40, btw

Yup....they carry it most of the time...

Droid + Tapatalk = FTW!

Go Horns!

05-19-2011, 02:31 PM

I bought a case of Redline 10W-40 from Amazon and was planning on using it for an oil change, but could not find the time to do it myself. Plus, I don't have a place to jack-up the car at my apartment complex. I called the local indy that works on euros and he insisted on using Amsoil 5W-40. Told me the 10W-40 would be too thick. I wanted to get the change done, and after looking at the product spec sheets online and doing some reading on Bob the Oil Guy ("BTOG"), I was more than okay using Amsoil.

I am starting to wonder if Redline 10W-40 would be too thick period (according to the OP, we want a range of 9-14 cSt at 100°C). Its Viscosity @ 40/100°C is 93/14.6 (cSt), but Redline 5W-40 is 94/15.1. BTOG seems to think that the major problems with oil is that it gets too thick over time and harms the engine at low temps, so I'm wondering if Redline 5W-30 would be a better choice with a viscosity of 62/10.6 cST @ 40/100°C.

I guess the other thing to consider is the HTHS value. Redline (ASTM-D4741 (http://www.astm.org/Standards/D4741.htm)) does not use the same test as Amsoil (ASTM-D4683 (http://www.astm.org/Standards/D4683.htm) so I can't compare them directly. But the Redline 5W-30 has a viscosity of 3.8 and the Redline 40s have 4.6 and 4.7.

With the understanding that the higher the HTHS, the better for engine longevity; I guess the goal is oil that is thin enough at cold temps to not harm the engine, but thick enough at hot temps to not get sheared away.

For point of reference the specs on BMW 5W-30, Amsoil 5W-40, and Mobil 1 0W-40.

BMW 5W-30 (Castrol TXt Softect) - Viscosity @ 40/100°C is 70/12.1 (cSt) and HTHS of 3.5 (Don't know standard used) (I pieced this info together from websites and not a product spec sheet, so take it with a grain of salt)
Amsoil 5W-40 - Viscosity @ 40/100°C is 82.2/13.7 (cSt), HTHS of 3.8 (ASTM-D4683)
Mobil1 0W-40 - Viscosity @ 40/100°C is 75/13.5 (cSt), HTHS of 3.8 (ASTM-D4683)

Go Horns!

05-19-2011, 08:52 PM

Since I was gathering data, put this together for those of us that like tons of data when making decisions. I gathered most of the data from product specification sheets, but the some of the numbers were taken from forum discussions on Bob the Oil Guy and other car message boards.

Amsoil 5W-40 (Euro)
Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt ____ 13.7
Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt _____ 82.2
Viscosity Index __________ 171
Flash Point °C (°F) _______ 230 (446)
HTHS (cP) (ASTM D-4683)_ 3.8

Amsoil 5W-30 (Euro)
Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt ____ 12.3
Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt _____ 76.3
Viscosity Index __________ 159
Flash Point °C (°F) _______ 238 (460)
HTHS (cP) (ASTM D-4683)_ 3.7

Amsoil 10W-40 (Premium)
Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt ____ 14.6
Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt _____ 90.5
Viscosity Index __________ 169
Flash Point °C (°F) _______ 228 (442)
HTHS (cP) (ASTM D-4683)_ 4.3

Mobil 1 0W-40
Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt ____ 13.7
Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt _____ 82.2
Viscosity Index __________ 171
Flash Point °C (°F) _______ 230 (446)
HTHS (cP) (ASTM D-4683)_ 3.8

BMW 5W-30 (Castrol TXT Softec)
Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt ____ 11.9
Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt _____ 68.1
Viscosity Index __________ 173
Flash Point °C ___________ 236
HTHS (cP) (ASTM D-4683) _ 3.5

German (Euro) Castrol 0W-30
Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt ____ 12.2
Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt _____ 72
Viscosity Index __________ 178
Flash Point °C (°F) _______ >200
HTHS (cP) (ASTM D-4683)_ 2.9

German (Euro) Castrol 5W-30
Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt ____ 10.7
Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt _____ 62.6
Viscosity Index __________ 159
Flash Point °C (°F) _______ >200
HTHS (cP) (ASTM D-4683)_ 2.9

German (Euro) Castrol 5W-40
Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt ____ 14.3
Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt _____ 85
Viscosity Index __________ 178
Flash Point °C (°F) _______ >200
HTHS (cP) (ASTM D-4683)_ 2.9

Redline 5W-30
Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt ____ 10.6
Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt _____ 62
Viscosity Index __________ 162
Flash Point °C (°F) _______ 252 (486)
HTHS (cP) (ASTM D-4741)_ 3.8

Redline 5W-40
Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt ____ 15.1
Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt _____ 94
Viscosity Index __________ 170
Flash Point °C (°F) _______ 250 (480)
HTHS (cP) (ASTM D-4741)_ 4.6

Redline 10W-40
Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt ____ 14.6
Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt _____ 93
Viscosity Index __________ 164
Flash Point °C (°F) _______ 248 (478)
HTHS (cP) (ASTM D-4741)_ 4.7

Total Quartz 9000 0W-40
Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt ____ 14.3
Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt _____ 86.3
Viscosity Index __________ 172
Flash Point °C ___________ 230
HTHS (cP) (ASTM D-4683)_ ?

Lubro-Moly 0W-40
Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt ____ 13.9
Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt _____ 78
Viscosity Index __________ 181
Flash Point °C (°F) _______ 240 (464)
HTHS (cP) (ASTM D-4683)_ 3.6

billschusteriv

05-20-2011, 03:13 AM

If we can find the info, we should also base part of our selection on the additives (or lack thereof) in the oil.

IIRC, there are certain additives that the oils meeting BMW specs do not contain.

danewilson77

05-20-2011, 04:25 AM

Thanks for the data GH.

Droid + Tapatalk = FTW!

MasterC17

05-20-2011, 07:15 AM

I need to update the original post when I get the time. The Red Line 5W-30 is a little too thin for our cars. The 5W-40 is a little too thick. Neither will blow up your engine but they may not be the best for the car. We should use the BMW 5W-30 as a baseline. Cst @ 100 C is 12.1. A good comparison is Mobil 1 0W-40 (Cst @ 100 C is 13.5). Red Line 5W-30 is 10.6 and 5W-40 is 15.1. So, a 50-50 mix between the two would give you a Cst @ 100 C of 12.85. You could also do a 66/33 for 13.57. Yes, mixing oils is typically fine (especially since they are both basically the same except weight). I will be going with a 50/50 mix of Red Line 5W-30 and 5W-40 soon. With the Mobil 1 0W-40 pressure at operating temp (210f) idling was about 12psi. With the Red Line 5W-30 it is about 10psi. With the 50/50 mix I hope to get back to that 12psi range. We'll see.

In terms of the Redline 10W-40, it really shouldn't hurt the engine as you shouldn't be revving over 3k before the oil is at operating temperature anyway (190f+ is good). Especially seeing as how your in Texas I wouldn't worry but the Amsoil is a very good oil regardless so either way is fine. However, I would agree that it may be too thick anyway at operating temp. Again, I would recommend a 50/50 66/33 mix of Red Line 5W-30 and 5W-40 if you want to use the Red Line.

billschusteriv

05-20-2011, 08:17 AM

Thanks for the data GH.

Droid + Tapatalk = FTW!

+1

Barefoot-ZHP

05-25-2011, 08:22 PM

Question:
WHy are Pennzoil European Formula Platinum or Ultra 5w-40 Full Synthetic not listed?
They are BMW LL01 listed.

I was on the M1 regimen for a long time as well the Castrol kick with my classic BMW's.
Once I bought the ZHP I found the Pennzoil and have been really happy with it...

Just asking as I didn't see it listed...

Washburn

05-25-2011, 08:31 PM

list on BMW usa is not really current - you're right - PNZ ultra 5-40 meets LL01

spencers

05-26-2011, 07:44 AM

Hmm.. That PU 5w-40 looks like good stuff!
Not as high HT/HS as what I'm running, but I'll have to do more researching on what's in it.

M0nk3y

05-26-2011, 08:24 AM

Anyone know what 10w-60 brand I need to get?

I want to pick up a quart and leave it in the trunk...just don't know a brand to get

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Washburn

05-26-2011, 08:33 AM

Castrol TWS Motorsport SAE 10W-60 Synthetic Engine Oil
Castrol Formula RS SAE 10W-60 Synthetic Engine Oil (BMW part number 07 51 0 009 420)

danewilson77

05-26-2011, 09:25 AM

Anyone know what 10w-60 brand I need to get?

I want to pick up a quart and leave it in the trunk...just don't know a brand to get

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk

Why? Does your car leak/burn oil?

az3579

05-26-2011, 09:37 AM

Why? Does your car leak/burn oil?

I think all S54's have to be topped up between oil changes. Nature of the beast.

I'm actually annoyed that I have to put almost a quart in between oil changes (5k). I dunno WTH is up with that...
I don't want to do seals yet. lol

M0nk3y

05-26-2011, 02:28 PM

Why? Does your car leak/burn oil?

Always have it just incase.

Especially with autocross this weekend, I don't want to run near the low mark. I want plenty to cycle throughout the engine. Especially so I don't tick.

walexander81

07-01-2011, 03:13 PM

Marcus-SanDiego

07-01-2011, 03:24 PM

Walexander, I merged your thread with our BIG oil thread. You're now in the right place.

danewilson77

07-01-2011, 06:51 PM

I have a 2004 330i ZHP Sedan. What is the best oil to use on this car?
I've heard that by using better oils, the engine runs quieter and also the vanos is less noisy. I replaced my vanos with a kit, but it starting to make noise again after a year.

Use BMW 5W-30 or Mobil I 0W-40.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

Crickett

07-02-2011, 05:49 AM

danewilson77

07-02-2011, 06:14 AM

+1.......M1 0W-40 is $4.99/qt at Napa....hehe

Oli77

10-01-2011, 11:39 AM

Because we are team awesome and we only have one oil thread on the board, I will ask the questions here.

Had oil changed about 200 miles ago with Castrol Edge with Syntec power technology 5W-20 (not LL-01). I drove ~100 miles on freeway at normal speed this morning and when I turned engine off at my destination, the orange oil light light up for 10 seconds.

I checked the dipstick and indeed, level was low (at bottom of the lowest "gap"). Added one quart of the above mentioned oil. Drove 100 miles back to town and oil level is fine (a tad too high perhaps).

Questions: is this oil too thin and going through the seals? If that's the case why did it happen on the way to my destination and not on the back?

kayger12

10-01-2011, 12:40 PM

I wouldn't think so. There are a lot of places where these things are known for losing oil: vcg, oil filter housing gasket, ccv, just to name a few.

I would start snooping around for a small leak.

HokieZHP

10-05-2011, 01:29 PM

Hey guys so my oil level is low and I'm getting a yellow/sometimes red oil light when I shut off and start the car. I'm getting my oil changed on the 14th when I go home but I need to add some now. The issue is I don't know what kind of oil is in it...

I know I need either 5w-30 or 0w-40 but would it hurt if I put in some castrol synthetic 5w-30 from autozone? If not what should I do?

I just need something to tide me over till my oil change.

danewilson77

10-05-2011, 01:42 PM

The red light is oil pressure Hokie. Do not drive the car if you get this light. How low are you! Yes! Just put either kind in there.....now.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

HokieZHP

10-05-2011, 01:43 PM

I'm not that low. It's just at the bottom of the acceptable range. It's not like almost gone. I'll go get some oil then.

Thanks

danewilson77

10-05-2011, 01:47 PM

Ok. Worried forma sec. Did you hear the concern in my post? Hehe...

Is this the first time you've gotten the red light?

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

HokieZHP

10-05-2011, 02:09 PM

Dane, does a red/yellow light still mean oil pressure if it's only comes on for a couple seconds when I start and turn off the car?

Yes it's the first time. I was told when I bought the car that the oil separator needed to be replaced. Think this is it?

And yes I definitely heard the concern haha

danewilson77

10-05-2011, 02:12 PM

Dunno. Sensor/wiring issue.....or...intermittent low pressure issue. Maybe CCV could cause this. Never heard of it before though....

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

HokieZHP

10-05-2011, 02:14 PM

Cause it's come on when I turned the car on and off for the past week or so but I thought it just meant low oil. I just dumped a quart of castrol synthetic 5w-30 in it and waited for it to cool off so I can see how much is in there now.

danewilson77

10-05-2011, 02:19 PM

HokieZHP

10-05-2011, 02:25 PM

Yellow is low level. You are getting low pressure at startup and shutdown.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

That's what I thought. Alright. Well hopefully this will fix it. I'll update when I get it all squared away. How long would you say it takes for all the oil to drain out of the engine to properly test the oil level? 30 mins?

danewilson77

10-05-2011, 02:26 PM

I would give it a few hours....or let it sit overnight.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

HokieZHP

10-05-2011, 02:26 PM

Roger

llll1l1ll

10-06-2011, 03:40 AM

When I got my oil changed, I checked it the next day after letting it sit overnight. It was just touching first measure mark. After I warm the car up, the level is right where it should be. I use BMW 5W-30. Dunno if this means anything, I'm just throwing it out there for consolation in case anyone else was having a similar issue.

I've also had a lot of coffee this morning.

danewilson77

10-06-2011, 03:42 AM

Proper way to measure oil level is written in owners manual.

It consists of letting engine come up to NOT, turning car off.....then checking level within 10-50 minutes I believe....something to that effect.

llll1l1ll

10-06-2011, 05:11 AM

Gotchya. That's what I figured. You would want to check the oil with the engine at NOT since that would accurately reflect how much oil is in your car while it is operating.

danewilson77

10-06-2011, 05:35 AM

From my owners manual to be exact....

1. Park the vehicle on a level surface

2. Switch the engine off after it has
reached normal operating temperature

3. After approx. 5 minutes, pull the dipstick
out and wipe it off with a clean
lint-free cloth, paper towel, or similar
material

4. Carefully push the dipstick all the
way into the guide tube and pull it
out again

5. The oil level should be between the
two marks on the dipstick.

As with fuel economy, oil consumption
is directly influenced by your driving
style and vehicle operating conditions.
The oil volume between the two marks
on the dipstick corresponds to approx.
1.1 US quarts/1 liter. Do not fill beyond
the upper mark on the dipstick. Excess
oil will damage the engine

HokieZHP

10-06-2011, 12:02 PM

Ok so after parking my car on campus, taking the bus home and letting the car sit overnight, I checked the level. It's about 1/32 of an inch over the top of the acceptable level. I believe this is ok though. I just got off the phone with my mechanic at home and he says it's a-ok to have it there since it's not enough to damage the engine. He thinks it may be a sensor gone bad so we'll see when I can get home to him in a few weeks. I'm going to try and find a computer to hook up to here at school to get a definite answer before then but I just wanted to give you guys an update that it's all ok and my car isn't dying haha knock on wood.

danewilson77

10-06-2011, 01:36 PM

Hokie....was it low when you added last night?

And now its high?

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

HokieZHP

10-06-2011, 02:07 PM

Yes, the oil level was just below the acceptable level and then I added the oil and now it's just barely too high but not high enough to cause any trouble.

danewilson77

10-06-2011, 02:53 PM

ok......so the high level is not an anomoly, and only because you put in a lil too much. No worries.

Keep us updated on the red light.

HokieZHP

10-06-2011, 03:09 PM

Yup. BTW your new avatar threw me off. I thought you were a new guy haha

danewilson77

10-06-2011, 03:23 PM

Yup. BTW your new avatar threw me off. I thought you were a new guy haha

Hehe....good.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

llll1l1ll

01-04-2012, 07:33 AM

This is a pretty stupid question, but I just gotta make sure:

When filling oil, I noticed that there is a hole with a divider in the middle right under the oil cap. Then to the side, it looks like if you miss this divider, the oil will flow on top of the valve cover or into the side of it and not on the valvetrain and into the pan. Furthermore, it looks like the divider divides the oil into two sides to pour down. In my old E30, you would just open the oil cap and see the valvetrain. Pour oil in. Done.

Is there a specific way, so to speak, to pour the oil for the ZHP? Or can I just slam a funnel in one of the two dividers, pour and worry about more important things, like what beer to get later.

danewilson77

01-04-2012, 07:40 AM

Don't believe it matters. It all gravity drains back to pan anyways. Are you having level issues?

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

llll1l1ll

01-04-2012, 08:25 AM

Well that or I'm having a bad leak somewhere else. I filled it up before I left Raleigh and was worried maybe I poured it in the wrong spot. Orange light came on after a good 300-350 miles (possibly more) of driving. Seems to be every couple of weeks I need to add some more. Thought maybe I was pouring it in the wrong spot and it was just collecting under an engine cover or something, but I guess it's all coming out of the OFHG (even though the waffle area is kinda clean) as the VCG should not be leaking any longer (it's new and I smell no burning oil).

For the record, after bringing the car up to operating temperature, turning it off and then waiting about ten minutes (the manual says five minutes), I checked and the level was just above the minimum level mark on the stick. Came back maybe 45 minutes later and it was about the same. When it's cold, it's a little higher. I feel like the level varies a lot.

84K on the clock. Using BMW 5W-30.

danewilson77

01-04-2012, 09:04 AM

Interesting.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

telijah

01-04-2012, 09:23 AM

Anyone getting the oil drain thingy (http://www.ecstuning.com/News/BMW_Fumoto_Oil_Drain_Valve/) from ECS? I had something similar on my Civic years ago and it was a blessing for me, as I ALWAYS end up dropping the drain plug and socket/extensions into the oil when doing my changes, and it always sucks.

llll1l1ll

01-04-2012, 10:07 AM

I contemplated getting one. I hear it works really well.

Interesting.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

Eh - we'll see what happens! My guess is OFHG or a faulty sensor.

telijah

01-04-2012, 10:20 AM

The one I had on my Civic I thin kwas one of those Seen On TV products. The drain plug was replaced with a threaded valve, and then it came with a quick-release hose that you'd pop on to let the oil drain. I like the design and how this one functions better from ECS though.

llll1l1ll

01-04-2012, 10:42 AM

My bad. I didn't check my email before posting. I was thinking about a suction pump you stick in the dipstick. I heard good things about those.

kayger12

01-04-2012, 10:47 AM

Motive Extractor here. No need. :)

redwagon

01-04-2012, 10:57 AM

quick drains as described are pretty standard on aircraft..........allows hooking up a hose and directing the flow directly into containers, and you arent dealing with screwing things back in and safety wiring them in what is often a very confined space. Neat. Clean. Fast.
Tim

telijah

01-04-2012, 11:07 AM

Motive Extractor here. No need. :)

I've always wanted to get one of these, but the ones that can hold more than 5 quarts seem to be astronomically more expensive for some reason.

Edit: Oh, only $65 at Amazon... I think I found something to use my Amazon gift card on.

LivesNearCostco

01-04-2012, 11:33 AM

I only drop my drain plugs into the oil/coolant/transmission fluid 50% of the time, at most! :biggrin

||||1|1||: I may have asked on your other thread, but did you ever replace your CCV? I think when those fail they can divert extra oil into the cylinders where it gets burned up. Another place that sometimes leaks oil is the VANOS oil line, which either drips onto the front or back end of the oil filter housing, depending which crimp is leaking.

kayger12

01-04-2012, 11:47 AM

I've always wanted to get one of these, but the ones that can hold more than 5 quarts seem to be astronomically more expensive for some reason.

Edit: Oh, only $65 at Amazon... I think I found something to use my Amazon gift card on.

You won't be disappointed. Also great for sucking the residual oil out of the bottom of the oil filter housing.

It also beats the turkey baster for power steering fluid swaps.

az3579

01-04-2012, 12:20 PM

I was browsing ECS Tuning's website (like I shouldn't be) when I saw this advert for a drain valve to make oil changes much easier. It's pretty much a valve that screws into place in your oil pan (replacing the bolt). All you would have to do to drain your oil is attach a tube to it and place it into the container that you'll drain into. Move the lever to the open position and your oil will drain out. No mess.

I will definitely be buying one of these very soon. Thought you DIY'ers would LOVE this.

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/News/BMW_Fumoto_Oil_Drain_Valve/ES2209062/

Stu

01-04-2012, 12:32 PM

I saw that, too. It looks really cool, but I'm worried about the spring-loaded part failing. Other than that, why haven't they made anything like this before?! It's brilliant!

az3579

01-04-2012, 12:38 PM

I saw that, too. It looks really cool, but I'm worried about the spring-loaded part failing. Other than that, why haven't they made anything like this before?! It's brilliant!

I have to admit, I've never had anything spring loaded fail on me. Can anyone with knowledge about such things chime in? I'm getting tired of wearing gloves for an oil change. :)

Sent from my iPhone 4S with Tapatalk

llll1l1ll

01-04-2012, 01:01 PM

||||1|1||: I may have asked on your other thread, but did you ever replace your CCV? I think when those fail they can divert extra oil into the cylinders where it gets burned up. Another place that sometimes leaks oil is the VANOS oil line, which either drips onto the front or back end of the oil filter housing, depending which crimp is leaking.

Ah-ha! I didn't think of that. The VANOS was just done and I they didn't remark about any leaks there. I hate to ask without searching first, but is there a good way to identify a failing CCV? I do know it's a real PITA to replace... :|

I looked around the waffle area near the OFHG when I did my intake boots and it looks grimy, but not oily.

zj96sc

01-04-2012, 01:11 PM

kayger12

01-04-2012, 01:16 PM

Ah-ha! I didn't think of that. The VANOS was just done and I they didn't remark about any leaks there. I hate to ask without searching first, but is there a good way to identify a failing CCV? I do know it's a real PITA to replace... :|

I looked around the waffle area near the OFHG when I did my intake boots and it looks grimy, but not oily.

Info I cut and pasted into my maintenance files:

The crankcase vent valve and 4 associate hoses fail and cause a vacuum leak. The valve gets stuck open and the hoses crack. These last 70-120k miles and usually fail 80-90k miles. Here are a couple diagnoses.

At warm idle, place a small plastic freezer storage bag on its side over the oil fill hole. If the bag sits on top or gets slightly sucked in, ~1", the valve is good. If the bag gets significantly sucked in the hole the valve is stuck open and bad.

With the engine off and cold, carefully remove the hose at the valve cover front corner. Blow hard into the hole. You should hear oil bubbling in the oil pan. If you don't hear the bubbling the top or bottom hose is likely cracked. The bottom hose often breaks just below the valve connection. There can also be cracks in the other two hoses.

danewilson77

01-04-2012, 01:40 PM

that thing is pretty much the opposite of 'low profile.' i'll get some oil on my hands over the chance of a failure in that device or the (remote) chance of it getting ripped clean off. you can buy a wholelotta nitrile gloves for $34 :p

+1. As long as it was tucked up under trap door, I think it would be ok though.

I'll stick to Extraction every 3/4 times, with full drain every 4th.....

Pretty good alternative idea though...

danewilson77

01-04-2012, 01:51 PM

I've always wanted to get one of these, but the ones that can hold more than 5 quarts seem to be astronomically more expensive for some reason.

Edit: Oh, only $65 at Amazon... I think I found something to use my Amazon gift card on.

Thing works like a champ.

http://s1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/?action=view&current=VID_20101211_161005.mp4

Review

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?421-Motive-Power-Extractor-Review&highlight=motive

Whitexi

01-04-2012, 02:10 PM

I saw that, too. It looks really cool, but I'm worried about the spring-loaded part failing. Other than that, why haven't they made anything like this before?! It's brilliant!

Im worried about jealous people. Looks cool though.

az3579

01-04-2012, 02:31 PM

There shouldn't be a risk of damaging it from it being too close to the ground, unless you are constantly scraping your oil pan. If that's the case, you've got more important things to worry about. lol
The valve looks like it's almost inline with the bottom of the pan. From the pics, it looks like it would stick out maybe half an inch, if that. The angle of the pics may seem misleading. :dunno

redwagon

01-04-2012, 03:09 PM

this was another thread, same topic. Net is that they are very reliable and used on aircraft regularly due to often tight access. Only issue is knocking it off, but if the plastic 'skidplate' is there it shouldnt be an issue........

kayger12

01-04-2012, 03:19 PM

I said this in the other thread, but with the oil filter being on top of the motor, Motive Extractor is a great option.

Not only do I not get dirty changing my oil, I can stay standing up the entire time.

kayger12

01-04-2012, 03:21 PM

Going to merge this with the oil thread.

llll1l1ll

01-05-2012, 04:32 AM

Info I cut and pasted into my maintenance files:

The crankcase vent valve and 4 associate hoses fail and cause a vacuum leak. The valve gets stuck open and the hoses crack. These last 70-120k miles and usually fail 80-90k miles. Here are a couple diagnoses.

At warm idle, place a small plastic freezer storage bag on its side over the oil fill hole. If the bag sits on top or gets slightly sucked in, ~1", the valve is good. If the bag gets significantly sucked in the hole the valve is stuck open and bad.

With the engine off and cold, carefully remove the hose at the valve cover front corner. Blow hard into the hole. You should hear oil bubbling in the oil pan. If you don't hear the bubbling the top or bottom hose is likely cracked. The bottom hose often breaks just below the valve connection. There can also be cracks in the other two hoses.

Hmm easy enough. I trust you do the plastic bag over the oil filler with the cap on, right? Otherwise, the car wouldn't run very well at all with the cap off.

kayger12

01-05-2012, 04:43 AM

Hmm easy enough. I trust you do the plastic bag over the oil filler with the cap on, right? Otherwise, the car wouldn't run very well at all with the cap off.

Negative. Cap off.

llll1l1ll

01-05-2012, 06:24 AM

Ah okay. Well, I reckon I could give it a shot.

I don't want that plastic bag getting sucked under the cover... That would be bad news.

Stu

01-05-2012, 07:01 AM

My shop fills up with LL-04 oil, but I do 7500 mile changes. Will I be okay? It says not to use LL-04 outside of the US because of the higher sulfer content in gasoline.

danewilson77

01-05-2012, 07:16 AM

My shop fills up with LL-04 oil, but I do 7500 mile changes. Will I be okay? It says not to use LL-04 outside of the US because of the higher sulfer content in gasoline.

If it says not to use it....why use it?

No one here will be able to definitively tell you your engine is going to crap out because you're using LL-04.

telijah

01-05-2012, 07:32 AM

Thing works like a champ.

http://s1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/?action=view&current=VID_20101211_161005.mp4

Review

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?421-Motive-Power-Extractor-Review&highlight=motive

Yeah, I am definitely buying one, but I keep leaving my giftcard for Amazon at home, and I do most of my Internetting at work (hahaha). Quick and dumb question, but as Kayger mentioned, with us having the oil filter housing up top, is extraction with these things done through the OFH, or do you still use the dipstick tube for extraction?

GT172I

01-05-2012, 07:37 AM

You still use the dipstick, but if I'm interpreting kayger right he's just referring to the excess oil in the bottom of the OFH once you pull the filter out.

HokieZHP

01-05-2012, 09:32 AM

My mechanic had me check for a ccv issue by warming the car up and while running, remove the dipstick a few inches and listen for a sucking sound and the engine will run rougher. If you hear a sucking sound and the engine stumbles a bit then it's bad.

Just another way I've heard of diagnosing it. I believe mine is on the way out too.

With the power extractor, is there any danger of not getting all the oil? Normally oil changes flush out all the little particles in the oil pan but if you suck it out the top, any particles will stay in the oil pan, correct? I want to get one but am hesitant due to this.

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danewilson77

01-05-2012, 09:33 AM

Yeah, I am definitely buying one, but I keep leaving my giftcard for Amazon at home, and I do most of my Internetting at work (hahaha). Quick and dumb question, but as Kayger mentioned, with us having the oil filter housing up top, is extraction with these things done through the OFH, or do you still use the dipstick tube for extraction?

You did not watch video?

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Stu

01-05-2012, 09:34 AM

If it says not to use it....why use it?

No one here will be able to definitively tell you your engine is going to crap out because you're using LL-04.

Cause my indy BMW shop uses it and I don't have all the tools to change my oil :(

Plus, it allows them to check over my car and spot any problems. Today they found things I didn't wanna hear :(

HokieZHP

01-05-2012, 09:38 AM

Cause my indy BMW shop uses it and I don't have all the tools to change my oil :(

Plus, it allows them to check over my car and spot any problems. Today they found things I didn't wanna hear :(

My shop in Durham (Digital Chassis) uses it as well. Says he's always used it in BMWs he services and has never had issues with it. He uses pento high performance 0w-40. It's german made stuff. I was worried about it when he said its LL04 but he says it's good so I'm using it. I trust him as my family has used him for a good 10 years.

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kayger12

01-05-2012, 09:48 AM

You still use the dipstick, but if I'm interpreting kayger right he's just referring to the excess oil in the bottom of the OFH once you pull the filter out.

Yes. This.

telijah

01-05-2012, 09:48 AM

You did not watch video?

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Video, I didn't even check the link to your thread, which I now see it clearly shows you going through the dipstick tube :facepalm. Hooray for reading full posts. I can't wait to get home and order one, although I just did a change two weeks ago, so will be some time before I get a chance to use it. So is it still recommended every few changes though to drain from below? Unless I've missed it again, I am unclear if the extractor go all the way to the oil pan, partly because I am actually ignorant on the path of the dipstck tube, which I feel dumb for as I ought to know this.

kayger12

01-05-2012, 10:01 AM

My understanding:

LL-04 is not approved and is no good for US cars due to the fuel we have here (as mentioned above).

LL-01 and LL-04 lubrication properties are essentially the same, but LL-04 does not have the sulfur combating additives to deal with the sulfur in US gasoline, which can have a detrimental effect on the motor and catalytic converters.

One of the members who spends a lot of time on BITOG would probably be able to chime in on this better than I.

I just know that everything that I've ever read says that LL-04 has no business in the crankcase of a US BMW.

No way I would put it in mine.

HokieZHP

01-05-2012, 10:02 AM

kayger12

01-05-2012, 10:14 AM

Sure thing.

Not trying to scare anyone-- just throwing the info out there.

MrMaico

01-05-2012, 10:46 AM

I'm still old school I guess I still crawl underneath to drain my oil. One of these days I might have to bet an extractor. Like Keith, I like to suck the old oil out of the oil filter housing while changing oil and I use my vacuum bleeder for that.....

http://astore.amazon.com/zhpcom-20/detail/B002XMUC3S

I could probably even use that for my oil pan, just have to empty it 4 or 5 times to get all the oil out.

I bought one of these recently for removing the oil pan drain plug without burning my fingers or dropping it in the drain pan. Haven't had a chance to try it out yet but it should work great....

http://astore.amazon.com/zhpcom-20/detail/B0054WI7CW

I only paid around $12 for mine though.

As for getting all the oil with an extractor, I read somewhere once where someone pulled the drain plug after using an extractor and he said it didn't get any more oil out so I wouldn't worry about that. There really shouldn't be any crud or whatever laying in the bottom of the pan. It should all be in the oil filter.

HokieZHP

01-05-2012, 11:19 AM

So if I switch oils, is BMW 5w-30 from the dealer fine to use or is there another "better" option. I'm still blurry on the whole meaning of 5w30 vs. 0w40 etc.

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trancenation

01-05-2012, 11:32 AM

What's anyone's impression on Castrol Edge Syntec 5w50? I changed my oil with it yesterday.

telijah

01-05-2012, 11:58 AM

I thought I read somewhere that the only recommended Castrol is the "euro blend" or something to that nature, as it followed the LL01 spec, and the only place I've ever found that stuff in stock was at Pep Boys.

llll1l1ll

01-05-2012, 12:47 PM

So if I switch oils, is BMW 5w-30 from the dealer fine to use or is there another "better" option. I'm still blurry on the whole meaning of 5w30 vs. 0w40 etc.

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If BMW has its name on it, it's probably just fine to use.

For the record, I use it. I had my oil change done at a shop when I first got the car, and the guy knew that the PO had used something that was not for the car. He said it just wasn't good and pointed out residues and stuff on the dipstick. The PO was going to Jiffy Lube, I believe. Anyway, the shop guy said that he only uses BMW 5W-30 in our types of cars.

HokieZHP

01-05-2012, 12:49 PM

If BMW has its name on it, it's probably just fine to use.

For the record, I use it. I had my oil change done at a shop when I first got the car, and the guy knew that the PO had used something that was not for the car. He said it just wasn't good and pointed out residues and stuff on the dipstick. The PO was going to Jiffy Lube, I believe. Anyway, the shop guy said that he only uses BMW 5W-30 in our types of cars.

Thanks for the info. Guess I'll be doing an oil change this weekend in my garage then.

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Mtnman

01-05-2012, 12:52 PM

and, FWIW, the bmw oil at the dealer is the cheapest oil i have found for our cars. 6.99 a qt in asheville.

HokieZHP

01-05-2012, 12:53 PM

Thanks! How many quarts should I get?

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telijah

01-05-2012, 01:08 PM

I always get 8. By the books, it needs something like 7.2 or whatever, but I always put 7 in on a change, and keep one handy in case I burn through a quart between changes... because I drive like an arse.

Stu

01-05-2012, 01:08 PM

Phew.Turns out my shop does use LL-01 oil. I figured they wouldn't make such a mistake.

I just happened to notice the Amsoil that they had on their shelf and assumed it was the same as mine since it was also 5w40. I called them just to make sure :)

They use Pennsoil 5w40 Euro Formula.

danewilson77

01-05-2012, 02:02 PM

bullfrogs_M3

01-05-2012, 02:08 PM

Hmmm I have always used:

TOTAL/Elf Engine Oil;
TOTAL Quartz INEO MC3 5W30, Full Synthetic;

Get it really cheap at AutohausAZ. Just did the full maintenance (oil, plugs, filter (air and oil)) a couple weeks ago for well under $120. Made the boy do all the plugs haa

I always assumed that 5W-30 is what BMW recommended? Never tried anything else in either my car or the X5.

zhp43867

01-05-2012, 02:23 PM

I just wrote up a whole long post on my experiences with Redline 0w30, BMW 5w30, Shell Rotella T6 5w-40, and German Castrol 0w-30. If anyone has any questions about how these oils compare shoot, I'm a little too perturbed right now to re-write the entire post. :guns

Edit: Oh man this made no sense! I was perturbed because my browser deleted the entire post right as I went to click post, and didn't want to re-write it. I will later this evening.

bullfrogs_M3

01-05-2012, 05:41 PM

I just wrote up a whole long post on my experiences with Redline 0w30, BMW 5w30, Shell Rotella T6 5w-40, and German Castrol 0w-30. If anyone has any questions about how these oils compare shoot, I'm a little too perturbed right now to re-write the entire post. :guns

Will check it out now. I never knew oil was such a big deal. I mean, I know to use good stuff but dang......

Stu

01-06-2012, 06:11 PM

imola red zhp

01-06-2012, 09:32 PM

Can you use 10w60 on on ZHP motors ??

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Hochspannung

01-06-2012, 09:43 PM

The Dealership "BMW" brand is Castrol.

kayger12

01-07-2012, 05:15 AM

Can you use 10w60 on on ZHP motors ??

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Hmm. Don't think so. I would think it would be too heavy.

MrMaico

01-07-2012, 06:10 AM

imola red zhp

01-07-2012, 08:48 AM

Hmm. Don't think so. I would think it would be too heavy.

Thanks Keith I had some left over from my M5.

M0nk3y

01-07-2012, 09:40 AM

Can you use 10w60 on on ZHP motors ??

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I'll take it :)

zhp43867

01-07-2012, 03:25 PM

Okay a brief version of what I was going to say.

I've found BMW 5w30 and Castrol European formula 0w-30 to be relatively similar, both achieving the same gas mileage and having a very sweet feel. The Castrol seemed to be slightly better as far as oil consumption but that could be incorrect. It is way more expensive than BMW oil and I am currently using BMW oil, which I pay $6 a quart for. 7500 mile intervals seem to work fine for these oils.

I used Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 once and it was the smoothest oil, that may have sapped my gas milage by about 1mpg, but also marginally decreased my mild oil consumption (~1 quart every 3-3.5k miles), maybe added 500-1000 miles to that figure. Won't use again as it is the same price as BMW oil for me.

Redline 0w-30. Ester based, just like Motul oils. I ran it for 7.5k but it only felt good up to about 5k, so I wouldn't run it longer than that. Increased my gas mileage about 1mpg and also seemed to add horsepower. I'd put money on the fact that you would gain a few hp on the dyno with this oil over BMW oil. Too expensive for me to run given the amount of driving I do. No effect on oil consumption, though the Ester base decreases some people consumption as it swells rubber seals. Made the car feel more alive, all in all a great complement to the ZHP motor's character.

Washburn

01-07-2012, 04:59 PM

Does anyone know where to purchase Pennzoil 5w40 Euro? No auto part store sells it around here, and it only comes in cases of 6 online. I only need two quarts or so, just to keep around in case I need a top off.

I am using this oil for next oil change...I just buy the 6 pack from amazon, and use that plus 1 quart of something else - in my case it will be 1 qt of BMW oil ...
I don't know where one can buy this oil in single qt bottles..might want to ask your local PZ distributor...but i doubt they will order single bottles.

HokieZHP

01-08-2012, 05:24 PM

What torque does the oil pan nut get tightened to? This oil change will be the first one I've done on my ZHP.

MrMaico

01-08-2012, 05:56 PM

What torque does the oil pan nut get tightened to? This oil change will be the first one I've done on my ZHP.

18.4ft/lbs or 25nm. That's for both the oil pan drain bolt and the oil filter housing cap.

HokieZHP

01-08-2012, 05:59 PM

18.4ft/lbs or 25nm. That's for both the oil pan drain bolt and the oil filter housing cap.

Thank you very much sir!

echo46

01-09-2012, 12:35 PM

I am still a Mobile 1 0w40 euro fan.

danewilson77

01-09-2012, 01:11 PM

I am still a Mobile 1 0w40 euro fan.

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Funny/chiving-wednesdays-43.jpg

Washburn

01-09-2012, 02:52 PM

My oil change today consisted of all this plus 1 at of BMW (Castrol) 5/30 oil:

telijah

01-16-2012, 12:45 PM

Finally got it, but now only 7000 more mile until my next oil change... Anyone in the Tampa Bay area need an oil change soon?

3056

kayger12

01-16-2012, 12:50 PM

Great purchase. You'll love it.

telijah

01-16-2012, 01:23 PM

A few of my local car friends have already asked for the sign up sheet to borrow. What sucks for them is they still have to go under the car for the filter.

echo46

01-16-2012, 01:59 PM

I like it. I guess you utilized one of your fine new Mann Filters?:)

telijah

01-17-2012, 07:19 AM

Yeah, but that was before I got the extractor. (EDIT): Wait, were YOU my SS? Been wondering for a while... If so, awesome, and thanks. If not, well, you still seem pretty cool to me anyways.

Kayger: When you use the extractor, do you just put the tube into the dipstick tube and begin pumping, or do you go by the little instructions that say to crimp the hose first, build vacuum to no more than -15kg, and then release the crimp?

kayger12

01-17-2012, 09:11 AM

I crimp and build up the vacuum first.

Slide the tube down until you feel it hit the bottom of the oil pan, open the little crimper clip, and go have a beer.

About 10 minutes later, you'll have an extractor full of oil.

I really do love that thing.

telijah

01-17-2012, 09:38 AM

Oh wow, so the -15kg vacuum is enough to get it all out at once? When I was doing "dry runs", the vacuum zero'd out kind of quickly, so I thought I'd be doing that over an over, but I assume once it's sucking oil, it's much more efficient. I almost want to do another oil change just to use this thing! Back to actual oil conversation. [/derail]

kayger12

01-17-2012, 09:50 AM

Pretty much. I run it more towards -20 on the initial set up.

Sometimes I'll give her 10 or so extra pumps after 5 minutes or so, but that's only if I'm standing there waiting.

danewilson77

01-17-2012, 04:15 PM

I go around 10".....then end up pumping it up 3 times.

Hochspannung

01-22-2012, 10:04 AM

as i pulled into my driveway and shutdown my engine. the yellow oil can light came on. i checked my oil and it was up to the second hash mark. isnt that full?

what does this meannnn?

danewilson77

01-22-2012, 10:40 AM

as i pulled into my driveway and shutdown my engine. the yellow oil can light came on. i checked my oil and it was up to the second hash mark. isnt that full?

what does this meannnn?

Level sensor could be going bad.

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Hochspannung

01-22-2012, 10:45 AM

how do you diagnose that a sensor is bad?

MrMaico

01-22-2012, 11:18 AM

as i pulled into my driveway and shutdown my engine. the yellow oil can light came on. i checked my oil and it was up to the second hash mark. isnt that full?

what does this meannnn?

http://mrmaico.smugmug.com/Cars/BMW-ZHP-misc/i-VFDxnG7/0/L/lof10-L.jpg

First thing I would do is make sure it's full. I'd make it cover that upper narrow section. I made the mistake of changing my sensor last summer when actually all it apparently was is that I was 1/2 a quart low. I would get the yellow light after shutdown but it was only after a short drive. A longer drive, 1/2 hour or so, and it wouldn't come on. Otherwise there is no definite way to diagnose it that I know of. I found one post where a person said having a weak battery made his come on.

Try topping off the oil first and see what happens.

Barry

Hochspannung

01-22-2012, 01:29 PM

ok will do. im right at the top of the second line though. i know my battery is old and needs to be replaced soon

kayger12

01-22-2012, 02:04 PM

My 325 wouldn't trigger the light until it was below the minimum line.

My ZHP triggers the light if it gets below the middle of the center section between max and min.

Droid X. Tapatalk. Use it.

MrMaico

01-22-2012, 02:24 PM

ok will do. im right at the top of the second line though. i know my battery is old and needs to be replaced soon

You're probably good then but it's worth a try. Mine actually was showing a bit above 1/2 a quart low though so at least on mine, it's pretty picky about being even a bit low. My car doesn't use hardly any oil and it had close to 5000 miles since I had changed it so it was down just that little bit. That was the longest I'd gone on an oil change and I always kept it right on full so that was the first time I had been that low. When I changed the sensor I did an oil change but hadn't put quite enough in so it was still a little low, I hadn't topped it off fully yet. I still find it a little hard to believe but I haven't seen the light since.

My battery was the original from early 2004 and even though it seemed fine I figured it was getting close to needing replacement so I changed it just to eliminate the possibility. Date code is on the negative post, mine was 17-04. I still have it sitting in the garage and just checked it after maybe 6 or 8 weeks since I charged it last and it's still showing 12.83 volts so I'd bet it would have gone another year easily. It was only after changing it that I found a few posts on M3forums that mentioned the overly sensitive level sensor and added a little oil.

Hochspannung

01-23-2012, 09:05 AM

i added half a quart of mobil 1 0w/40 and the light doesnt come on now. i must have read the dip stick wrong.

telijah

01-23-2012, 09:37 AM

If it comes on when you shut the car off, it means either A: you're about 1 quart low, or B: you have a faulty oil level sensor on the bottom of the oil pan, which is known to fail on these.

kayger12

01-23-2012, 09:47 AM

If it comes on when you shut the car off, it means either A: you're about 1 quart low, or B: you have a faulty oil level sensor on the bottom of the oil pan, which is known to fail on these.

Faulty level sensor is *supposed* to be a 30 second yellow light at start up. Not sure that's always the case, though.

Mtnman

01-23-2012, 11:20 AM

Faulty level sensor is *supposed* to be a 30 second yellow light at start up. Not sure that's always the case, though.

Keith, im pretty sure it is a 30 sec light at shut down, not start up. That's how mine works at least.....

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llll1l1ll

01-23-2012, 12:13 PM

I thought the 30 second light at shutdown meant the oil was low, and when it comes on while driving it means it's really low.

Mtnman

01-23-2012, 12:17 PM

Maybe im the one confused with Keiths post. 30 sec light at shutdown: marginally low oil. Light on while driving, very low oil. Dont know what a light on at startup means. I think my sensor is shot (already have new one waiting to install) but my oil light comes on while driving sometimes and at shutdown. I just checked the oil at lunch today, and as always, it is at the top of the full mark. I was assuming yellow lights (at any time when oil is full) was a sign that sensor is bad.

danewilson77

01-23-2012, 12:55 PM

From the owners manual:

FOR YELLOW LIGHT
Check as soon as possible Engine oil level If the lamp comes on during normal vehicle operation: the engine oil level has fallen to the absolute minimum; refill as soon as possible. Do not drive more than approx. 30 miles/50 km before refilling. For additional information: refer to page 132

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telijah

01-23-2012, 01:10 PM

OK... a yellow oil light at ANY point could be a faulty level sensor. However, if the yellow oil light is on at shut down only temporarily, per the owners manual, it could be low on oil, and I think 1 quart low can trigger it. If the yellow oil light comes on while driving and stays on, it again means that you are at least 1 quart low, but could be more.

A red oil light while driving means STOP (oil pressure problem).

A brief yellow oil light at startup though, could still be only slightly low oil, and upon warming up/oil pump running, it moves enough oil around to think the level is fine.

Long story short:
- If you get any kind of YELLOW oil light, check your level and maybe add a quart. If the level is fine and you still get a YELLOW light, replace your level sensor at your next oil change and check the dip stick at each gas fill up.
- If you get a RED oil light, stop the car and find out why you have pressure problems.

Mtnman

01-23-2012, 01:17 PM

:thumbsup

kayger12

01-23-2012, 04:34 PM

I have always read that a yellow oil light at start up means a faulty sensor.

I will dig and see if I can find something to back that up.

kayger12

01-23-2012, 04:40 PM

Ok-- can't find it in anything definitive, but it is repeated throughout numerous posts of fanatics, bimmer forums, bimmerfest... that a 5 second yellow oil light at start up is a faulty sensor.

I'll still try to find something definitive to back that up.

telijah

01-24-2012, 07:43 AM

My only problem with that theory is, when it's happened to me, I'll put a quart in, and never see it again. However, if you follow my order of operations, you'll wind up replacing the level sensor anyways :)

jreyes19

01-29-2012, 04:17 PM

Hi Guys
My dipstick is breaking
(not my photo, using as visual)
http://www.bottero.fsnet.co.uk/oil.jpg
it has a small crack in between 1 and 2 and 3 and 4 ,

Is this normal or should i replace (a tiny peace has already fallen off, when i was checking oil)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-BMW-OIL-DIPSTICK-Dip-Stick-Engine-Level-Check-/300589422182?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ABMW&vxp=mtr&hash=item45fc869666#ht_1516wt_956 (is this the correct piece?)

also the oil light has come on after i turn the car off, (now i know it means i am low a quart correct?)
but when i checked the oil it is at max, (#2 in picture)

Sorry if this doesn't belong here i wasn't sure if this question deserved its own thread

danewilson77

01-29-2012, 04:24 PM

Hi Guys
My dipstick is breaking
(not my photo, using as visual)
http://www.bottero.fsnet.co.uk/oil.jpg
it has a small crack in between 1 and 2 and 3 and 4 ,

Is this normal or should i replace (a tiny peace has already fallen off, when i was checking oil)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-BMW-OIL-DIPSTICK-Dip-Stick-Engine-Level-Check-/300589422182?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories &fits=Make%3ABMW&vxp=mtr&hash=item45fc869666#ht_15 16wt_956 (is this the correct piece?)

also the oil light has come on after i turn the car off, (now i know it means i am low a quart correct?)
but when i checked the oil it is at max, (#2 in picture)

Sorry if this doesn't belong here i wasn't sure if this question deserved its own thread

Replace. I wouldn't chance it. I'm going to go look at mine now.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

Newjack

01-29-2012, 04:37 PM

I've had a faulty oil level sensor for a couple months now. I just check the oil regularly (it stays at the 75%-100% margin) and make sure I don't see any leaks under the car, which I haven't. My oil light comes on whenever it feels like it. It is never consistent and will come on even after I have just added a little oil. Hilly areas seem to trigger it the most, but again, it is very random. Will be getting a new sensor with my next oil change.

Gingervolt + TT

jreyes19

01-29-2012, 04:55 PM

Newjack

01-30-2012, 05:21 PM

Thanks Dane, let me know what you find out by looking at yours

also thanks newjack
I am experiencing the same thing, i first saw it come on a few weeks back then just reappeared again yesterday so i thought i would check it out
maybe mine is faulty as well

I figure if my sensor was doing its job and my oil really was too low, there would be some form of consistency of when the light decides to come on.

Gingervolt + TT

edlvrt

01-31-2012, 02:26 PM

telijah

01-31-2012, 02:32 PM

I've never received those in my filter kits, they've always just had the washer and the big oring for the main cap. However, there's likely no harm in replacing them if you get them.

Edit: Just re-read your post. I have yet to see one come with any E46 kits. I'd say like any other piece of rubber on your car though, replace them if they seem to need them.

danewilson77

01-31-2012, 03:36 PM

No....those aren't really a wear item per se'. I mean...could a guy change those out every 100k miles, and be doing good? Sure....

MrMaico

01-31-2012, 04:10 PM

Not directly oil related, but do the two small O rings on the oil filter cap need to be changed? The filter kits for my E36 came with one in addition to the crush washers and big O ring for the top of the cap. Items #5

http://realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/c/f/239.png

I read somewhere once that they should be changed every so often, I forget the interval. I ordered some a while back and figure I'll change them every 3rd or 4th oil change. I think I read that when they go bad that your oil filter housing will drain down if the car sits for a while and then it takes longer to build pressure on the next cold start.

EDIT: I think this is the thread I was thinking of (see post 21).....

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=356660

It's an M3 so it's a little different setup but the o ring(s) have the same function.

danewilson77

01-31-2012, 04:14 PM

I read somewhere once that they should be changed every so often, I forget the interval. I ordered some a while back and figure I'll change them every 3rd or 4th oil change. I think I read that when they go bad that your oil filter housing will drain down if the car sits for a while and then it takes longer to build pressure on the next cold start.

EDIT: I think this is the thread I was thinking of (see post 21).....

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=356660

It's an M3 so it's a little different setup but the o ring(s) have the same function.

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Funny/the_more_you_know_by_stathisnhx-d33639v.png

Newjack

01-31-2012, 05:16 PM

^^^ I lol'd

danewilson77

01-31-2012, 05:19 PM

^^^ I lol'd

Hehe...

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

danewilson77

01-31-2012, 05:25 PM

^^^ I lol'd

Whats more.....I actually lol'd.....because you lol'd....

telijah

02-01-2012, 06:13 AM

I hate being old enough to remember that show...

quikryptonite

02-28-2012, 11:36 AM

I am trying to decide between Mobil 1 SAE 0W-40 and Valvoline SynPower SAE 5W-30 for the oil changes coming up in March for my cars. It might come down to which one I can get the cheapest. I've also got a new magnetic oil plug I'm going to install for future use.

danewilson77

02-28-2012, 03:28 PM

RVAzhp

02-28-2012, 04:50 PM

mobil 1 0w-40 FTW.

LivesNearCostco

02-28-2012, 05:34 PM

I ran Valvoline SynPower 5w-30 in my ZHP once. Not sure what I was thinking except it was fairly cheap and fully synthetic. Now running Total Elf Quartz 5w-30, which is BMW LL-01 approved.

Stopped by WalMart a few nights ago and saw good prices (about $27 or $5.40/qt) on 5-qt jugs of every Mobil 1 weight except 0w-40 European formula. They sell that ne only in single-quarts for like $6.95/qt. I tell ya, it's a conspiracy.

RVAzhp

02-28-2012, 07:10 PM

Damn, i'm going to have to start going to wal-mart for my oil. at autozone/advanced auto in my area it's like $9 a quart.

zj96sc

02-28-2012, 07:22 PM

BMW 5w-30 synth is in the 6s and 7s from any of your favorite online BMW wholesalers or local dealerships with CCA discount. bought a case from my local guy saturday at 7.10 a qt.

llll1l1ll

02-29-2012, 06:53 AM

Without a discount at the local stealership, the BMW oil is 7.15 after taxes.

Edit: At my stealership.

ryankokesh

02-29-2012, 07:32 AM

What's everyone's opinions about Total Quartz? The po has it in there now. I hadn't heard of it before, but after reading about it for a bit, it seems to be fairly good?

(for perspective, I'm coming from only using mob1)

danewilson77

02-29-2012, 08:55 AM

I never heard of it until this thread.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

ryankokesh

02-29-2012, 08:57 AM

Yeah, I never had either. Apparently it's bmw certified though. :dunno

danewilson77

02-29-2012, 09:59 AM

Yeah, I never had either. Apparently it's bmw certified though. :dunno

I suppose if it says BMW LL01 on the back.

kayger12

02-29-2012, 10:36 AM

I've always read that Total Quartz was a good choice. Read about it on BITOG, iirc.

danewilson77

02-29-2012, 12:24 PM

I've always read that Total Quartz was a good choice. Read about it on BITOG, iirc.

Good data. Thanks KG.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

LivesNearCostco

03-01-2012, 10:56 PM

Should I be worried at having an Elf named INEO in my car?

spencers

03-02-2012, 12:15 PM

I've always read that Total Quartz was a good choice. Read about it on BITOG, iirc.

+1 BiTOG is a wealth of info

LivesNearCostco

03-02-2012, 04:23 PM

In addition to changing my oil last week, I took a sample and sent it to Blackstone Labs, receiving the report yesterday. They said my aluminum, lead and sodium were a bit high, which could mean cylinder wear, bearing wear, and coolant contamination, respectively. Or the sodium might be a normal additive to the oil. They put a "?" by the coolant contamination box. I guess I'm not going to wait 8,000 miles for the next oil change, maybe get some Rhino Ramps and change every 5,000 miles.

Anyone know if Total Elf Quarts INEO 5w-30 includes sodium in its additives package?

And here's a photo of my broken oil drain plug. Two oil changes ago I had Jiffy Lube do it and my theory is they over-tightened it, cracking it, but it didn't leak. Last oil change was by my indie, but he pumped it out the dipstick tube so didn't remove the drain plug. Then when I took it out only half came out and I had to use a broken bolt extractor to get the rest out.
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