DIY: replacing guibo (flexdisc) and/or driveshaft center support bearing (CSB) doityourself

[LivesNearCostco]

I recently replaced both guibo and CSB and didn't see a DIY so will be assembling this one in stages as I track down the photos and other DIYs. First key part numbers. It appears all E46 cars use the same CSB bearing, but there are three different CSB assemblies. You can buy just the bearing, but I recommend replacing the whole thing unless you somehow know the the bearing is bad but the carrier is okay.

Part I -- Parts

Guibo 323/325 auto, 330 auto/MT (non-Xi) including ZHP: 26-11-7-511-454
Guibo 323 or 325 (non-Xi) manual: 26-11-1-227-410
Guibo 325Xi or 330Xi, manual or auto: 26-11-1-229-360
Guibo E46 M3: 26-11-2-226-527
CSB assembly all E46 except Xi/M3: 26-12-7-501-257
CSB assembly E46 M3: 26-12-2-282-495
CSB assembly E46 Xi: 26-12-1-229-317
M12 lock nut for guibo (need 6, single use): 07-12-9-900-047


Optional parts. Replacing the circlip, butyl tape, guibo bolts, intermediate ring, and driveshaft centering sleeve are optional. Some cars don't have the circlip, or intermediate ring. Officially you're supposed to replace all 6 guibo nuts but can re-use the guibo bolts if they're in good shape.

M12 bolt for guibo, all E46 except M3 6x 26-11-7-523-709
M12 bolt, M3 3x 26112283795/26117635643 and 3x 26112283795/26117635643
CSB bearing without support: 26-12-1-225-071
Circlip, only for 323, 325, 328, and 330xi: 26-12-3-648-156
Butyl tape for all E46 26-12-7-511-140
Centering sleeve, driveshaft to transmission: 26117526611
Intermediate ring (only some models, including ZHP): 26117514120
Exhaust to manifold flat gasket (x2) part 18107502346 and copper M10 (15mm outside) nuts (x4) part 18301737774


Disclaimer: I only did this on an E46 330i 6-speed. Your E46 may have a different driveshaft setup or require different parts! Double check RealOEM and/or your parts vendor to make sure you gets the right parts.

My starting point was Pelican Parts DIY (http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Guibo/E36-Guibo.htm) on replacing the E36 guibo. Also used the Pelican Parts DIY on replacing the CSB (http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Driveshaft_Bearing/E36-Driveshaft_Bearing.htm). These are pretty good but the ZHP (and probably most or all E46 330s with 6-speed) have a different driveshaft setup.

To start, here's what a typical E46 325i driveshaft looks like, from RealOEM. The U-joint is after (behind) the CSB; there is a snap-ring (part #7) keeping the CSB on the rear driveshaft, and locking collar (parts 5 & 6) that holds the two halves together.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/z/y/208.png

But the ZHP driveshaft is set up more like this, from RealOEM. AFAIK the guibo, CSB, and bolts/nuts for guibo) are the same as the 5-speed, but there is no locking collar or snap-ring. Plus the U-joint is before (in front) of the CSB on my car, even though the diagram shows the U-joint behind the CSB here. A bolt and washer (parts 12 & 13) inside the U-joint holds the two halves together. In this drawing they face forward because U-joint is behind CSB, but in my car they faced backwards because U-joint was in front of CSB--either way the bolt is inside the U-joint and faces toward the CSB.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/y/a/157.png

I was going to post a RealOEM photo of the E46 M3 driveshaft, but it's the same diagram as the ZHP only with some of the part numbers being different.

[LivesNearCostco]

Part I.V (1.5): The very short DIY

Raise car, drop exhaust, remove 2 pieces of heat shielding
Loosen driveshaft bolt or collar, support tranny, remove transmission brace
Disconnect driveshaft from guibo, separate driveshaft, remove and replace old CSB
Reconnect driveshaft halves, replace guibo and butyl tape if needed, bolt up CSB (pre-load towards front)
Torque guibo bolts, reinstall transmission brace, heat shielding, and exhaust -- Enjoy!



Part II: Tools

3/8" and 1/2" ratchet
10mm, 13mm, 15mm & 18mm sockets (+17mm if removing wheels)
May need 13mm and 15mm deep sockets for transmission mounts, exhaust nuts
Two 3/8" extensions (or 1 longer than 9") for rear muffler supports; short 1/2" extension for exhaust-to-manifold nuts
13mm combo wrench to detach transmission exhaust bracket and/or for top nuts on transmission mounts
18mm box or combo wrench--helpful to have 2 of them
Helpful for 6-speed--18mm ratcheting box wrench with low-profile head to use on guibo bolts and to separate driveshaft halves
Pipe wrench (probably 16") if your driveshaft has external locking collar
10mm nut driver and 10mm box wrench for heat shielding
WD-40, or preferably PB blaster; optional anti-seize for re-assembly
Breaker bar or air tools to loosen exhaust-to-manifold nuts
Jack and 4 jackstands, or lift; helpful to have 2nd jack
Bearing/seal drifts or large socket (somewhere between 38 and 44mm) may be needed to install CSB into carrier or push CSB onto driveshaft; may need piece of pipe to push bearing onto 5-speed driveshaft
3-jaw puller or bearing separator/puller to remove old CSB
Headlamp or work light; eye protection
If have 5-speed driveshaft, might need lock-ring (circlip) pliers
Optional--extra jack stand or wire to support rear driveshaft
Optional--stiff putty knife or 5:1 paint tool, if re-using old butyl tape
Optional: friend, Bentley or Haynes, beer, extra work light, radio/iPod, etc.


Part III, Likely questions:
What else should I replace while in there? It's a good time to replace transmission mounts, shifter bushings or your entire shifter, since the exhaust and driveshaft will be out of the way. Also good time to get to the post-cat O2 sensors or install a new exhaust.

Do I need to drop the transmission support bracket? I had to remove it and support the transmission with my jack. It's probably possible to loosen the guibo nuts without removing the bracket, but not sure you can actually remove the driveshaft and guibo with it in place, especially on 6-speed. For 5-speed and auto, may be possible to leave brace in place--YMMV.

Do I need to replace the guibo nuts? Officially yes. I did not but I used blue LocTite when putting them back. If you want to be safe, replace them.

How do I loosen the bolt holding the driveshaft halves together (for driveshafts that don't have external locking collar)? An 18mm box wrench fits inside the U-joint, but you are loosening and tightening it one 12th of a turn at a time--very frustrating. A ratching 18mm box wrench would be perfect, but it will need to be a slim or low-profile to fit in there. Some fat 18mm box wrenches might need grinding to fit inside.

Do I need to lock the driveshaft to loosen guibo and driveshaft nuts? Depends. To loosen driveshaft bolt (or locking collar), I recommend breaking them loose while driveshaft is in the car, using e-brake to lock rear wheels. With two 18mm wrenches, you don't have to lock the rear wheels to loosen the guibo bolts (one 18mm wrench + one 18mm socket might work too). If you have only one 18mm wrench or socket, lock driveshaft with e-brake and loosen 2-3 nuts. Release e-brake, rotate driveshaft and lock again, then loosen other guibo nuts. There are 6 nuts and you can reach 2-3 at a time after rotating the driveshaft.

Do I need to replace both guibo and CSB? Depends on their condition. One has failed and both are old, I would replace both. My guibo was failing at 135,000 miles (might have been 2nd guibo) and my CSB failed at 169,000 miles. If I had known better, would have replaced the CSB when replaced the guibo. They say a failing guibo (or broken differential bushings) can kill your CSB quickly. But short answer, just replace both at the same time if you can.

Do I need to buy new butyl tape? No, you can re-use the existing tape but may need to transfer some from old CSB carrier bracket to new one.

Do I need to disconnect driveshaft from differential? No, unless you cannot separate the driveshaft halves under the car or want to rebalance or replace the driveshaft, or replace the diff.

Do I have to separate the driveshaft halves? Yes if replacing CSB, no if only replacing guibo.

[danewilson77]

Awesome brutha. Thanks!

Sent from the HTC DNA, Williamsburg, VA and USA

[LivesNearCostco]

Part III -- Other DIYs


Pelican Parts 3-series guibo DIY (http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Guibo/E36-Guibo.htm)
Pelican Parts CSB replacement DIY (http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Driveshaft_Bearing/E36-Driveshaft_Bearing.htm)
Bokchoys Guibo DIY http://www.bokchoys.com/differential/diy_guibo.htm
Sean McClellan DIY videos (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=944881), remove remove CSB from rear driveshaft (5-speed)
Bimmerfest DIY for E39 guibo replacement (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=510607)
Bimmerforums E36 discussion on which way guibo bolts should face (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1409479-Guibo-Bolt-Direction&p=18811400#post18811400)


CoolCarNick YouTube video looking at failed CSB (5-speed style driveshaft)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6wlJplxMdg

JayMay YouTube Video on E36 CSB replacement

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=fvwp&v=lulP2RG1o44&NR=1

Frikke Hanekom video of failing CSB (spinning by hand)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wz1rDP_w6U0

HefftoneGA video of E36 new guibo vs. trashed guibo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yqh5-tFA6M4

[cakM3]

Awesome DIY guide here! :thumbsup I will find this very useful when it comes time for me to replace my GUIBO and centerline bearing. Thanks for getting this all put together!

[LivesNearCostco]

Part IV -- Basic DIY Steps to take it apart


Safely raise car and support on 4 jackstands or lift; optional to remove rear wheels to make it easier to spin driveshaft. Must be high enough for you to use 1/2" ratchet or two 18mm combo wrenches on guibo.
Put on safety glasses. Spray WD-40 or PB blaster on 4 exhaust-to-manifold nuts, let marinate.
Remove center brace that doesn't support exhaust (2 x 13mm bolts)
Loosen, but do not remove, 8 13mm bolts/nuts supporting exhaust: 4 muffler, 2 rear brace, 2 transmission brace. Transmission brace nuts also need 13mm wrench to hold bolts; Muffler bolts require long 3/8" extension. Grit will fall onto your face when loosening muffler nuts.
Use breaker bar or air tool, and 15mm socket to remove 4 nuts holding exhaust to manifold. May require deep 15mm socket and/or short 1/2" extension. May require cussing and busted knuckles. Try not to break manifold studs or else you'll have to drill them out.
Use friend (with eye protection) or jack to support exhaust in middle. Remove all exhaust bolts/nuts. Slide exhaust back and front will fall off manifold studs onto friend. Slide exhaust and friend out from under car. Thank friend. If no friend/jack available or in a hurry, unbolt middle supports, unbolt muffler supports, drop muffler on ground then slide front pipes off of manifold studs.
Remove front tunnel heat shield (3 10mm nuts) and rear tunnel heat shield (4 10mm bolts). Don't lose those 7 small nuts and bolts! 10mm box wrench may be needed for front. 10mm nut driver ideal for rear heat shield bolts.
(If you want to inspect rear subframe mounting points, bushings, or front differential bushings, this is an excellent time! One forward subframe bushing is covered by a separate heat shield so you might have to remove that for a full inspection.)
Mark forward/rearward position of CSB carrier bracket. If replacing CSB, mark driveshaft front and rear so you can align them when you put the halves back together. I used white-out, or you could use a silver/gold Sharpie. Don't use a black marker!
If removing transmission brace, remove 13mm nuts from bottom of transmission mounts (may require 13mm deep socket)
If removing transmission brace, support transmission with jack and remove 4 x 13mm bolts holding brace. Most tranny mounts let you remove the brace without removing the mounts by slightly bending the lower mount studs. If not, remove 13mm nuts from top of mounts with 13mm box wrench to remove brace and mounts.
If replacing CSB, lock rear wheels with e-brake and slightly loosen driveshaft locking collar with pipe wrench (5-speed) or inner driveshaft bolt with 18mm box wrench (6-speed)
Loosen all 6 bolts holding guibo to transmission output shaft. If using socket only, leave e-brake locked and loosen 3, then unlock e-brake, rotate driveshaft, and re-lock e-brake to loosen other 3. If using two 18mm wrenches, unlock e-brake first and rotate driveshaft as you loosen all 6.
If replacing only guibo, remove all 6 guibo bolts and unbolt CSB to drop driveshaft. This lets you slide driveshaft back enough to remove old guibo.

(Pause for air, beer, drink, bathroom visit, take photos of your transmission or subframe, etc. You are halfway done.)

Exhaust note 1. I removed parts 4/5/6 from transmission. You could instead remove parts exhaust pipe clamp (either parts 9/10/11 or 12/13/14) but I think it's easier to leave the clamp on the exahust.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/u/k/117.png

Exhaust note 2. There are two rear hangers part #6 held up by 4 13mm nuts part #7. There are two braces part #9 held up by 4 13mm bolts #8. Only one is connected to exhaust (by 2 rubber supports part #10) but both have to come out. I could not find parts 3/4/5 or 11/12 on my exhaust.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/g/v/214.png

Exhaust note 3. You have option to replace 4 copper nuts (#3) and 2 diamond-shaped gaskets (#8) when re-assembling exhaust. I didn't, but I ordered new nuts and gaskets for next time. Be sure to observe orientation of flange part #9 so you can replace it properly later. Could also use anti-seize for re-assembly of the nuts. I didn't this time but probably should have.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/c/t/405.png

Here's how I supported my transmission with a jack. Right behind the wood block is where the exhaust support bracket bolts to the transmission.
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How I marked my driveshaft but forgot to mark position of CSB carrier bracket.
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Hidden bolt inside driveshaft U-joint, already loosened. You can see the inner part of the CSB bearing support has completely separated from the CSB support bracket.
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[LivesNearCostco]

Part V -- replacing CSB. If not doing this, skip forward to guibo replacement.


Driveshafts differ but in all cases you must separate the halves. Remember to mark driveshaft first! You can disconnect driveshaft from CV joint or from differential to work it on the bench, but I left rear driveshaft in the car. Good to support it with padded jackstand or piece of 2x4.
If you have locking collar, finish loosening it and pull front half off the back half. If you have internal bolt, use 18mm box wrench (hopefully ratcheting) inside U-joint. As it loosens, you must pull the front half forward or else the wrench gets captured inside the U-joint. Separate driveshafts.
If 5-speed driveshaft, remove circlip with snap-ring pliers. You can re-use or replace this later. The 6-speed style has no circlip but an intermediate ring. RealOEM shows it behind the CSB but in my car it was in front of the CSB. (RealOEM also shows U-joint behind CSB while mine was in front of CSB.) I re-used old intermediate ring. 5-speed might also have protective shield or cup in front of bearing.
Best to use bearing separator/puller, but I didn't have one and inner rubber bearing support had separated from CSB carrier, so I used 3-jaw puller. One DIY video above HF bearing separator tool in use. In retrospect, I think I could have gotten old bearing off by wiggling it, without a puller. If using puller on 6-speed, do NOT damage threaded hole on rear of driveshaft--protect it with a washer or something.
My new bearing came loose from the carrier so I tapped it in with a 3/8" extension because my biggest socket (36mm) would have hit the inner race. Use larger socket or proper bearing drift. I lubricated rubber carrier with dish soap.
Now install bearing onto the rear half of the driveshaft. The cupped section of CSB carrier should face forward. For my 6-speed, it was easy to press on by hand. For 5-speed, might need drift, PVC pipe, etc.--just don't know. Then reinstall circlip and inner cup (which might be only for E36) for the 5-speed, or intermediate ring (6-speed).
Reconnect front half of driveshaft, making sure marks are aligned. It was very hard for me to get the M12 bolt and washer back into the U-joint and started into the rear driveshaft half. If the front half is fully seated on the rear, you can't get the 18mm wrench into the U-joint, FML! So pull the front half slightly away from the rear to fit the wrench inside the joint. If you have the 5-speed, this won't be an issue.
Don't reconnect front half to transmission until you've reconnected it to the rear half. Don't secure CSB to body before reinstalling guibo!


Old and new guibos. Old rubber not cracking much but internal threads visible in several spots. Was installed incorrectly 30,000 miles (2.5 years) ago and I think that's part of why the threads are showing. Plus the AutoX usage.
7656

Old CSB, completely separated. The deeper side of the rubber cup facing the camera is what faces forward towards the transmission. The intermediate ring can be seen sitting loosely on top of the bearing inside the cup. I had trouble pressing the new bearing into the new CSB rubber cup. I scraped off most of the butyl rubber and stuck it to the new CSB carrier.
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Driveshaft centering sleeve. I have one on order but didn't actually see it during my DIY. Not sure if it sits on front end of driveshaft or rear end of output shaft. Picture courtesy of ECS Tuning.
http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/103870_x600.jpg

Self-locking M12 nut for guibo bolts, courtesy of ECS Tuning
http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/106554_x600.jpg

New CSB in carrier. My bearing came separate so I had to pound it into the carrier. Courtesy ECS Tuning
http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/16598_x600.jpg

[LivesNearCostco]

Part VI -- installing new guibo

If you want to replace centering bushing at front of driveshaft, do it while driveshaft front is out. I heard you pound 14mm plastic dowel into center with some grease to pop off the old bushing and tap new one in with rubber mallet or dead-blow hammer, but I didn't replace mine yet.
Put new butyl tape onto new CSB carrier, or be cheap like me and scrape old butyl tape off old carrier and mold it onto new one. The warmer it is the easier to mold but the bigger a mess it all makes.
I held driveshaft and guibo to transmission flange and put one bolt through guibo and driveshaft flange. Whoops, that didn't hold it, since no one bolt goes through all 3 parts. I now think wise answer is loosely bolt guibo to transmission flange with 3 bolts, then fit driveshaft to transmission and bolt driveshaft to guibo.
As noted in multiple places, the arrows on the guibo must point to the 6 flanges (3 driveshaft, 3 transmission). I installed the bolts pointing with the arrows so the nuts tighten against the flanges, but some people just install all 6 bolts facing the same way.
Don't tighten nuts yet. You should use 6 new nuts because they deform on installation, one-time use. I re-used mine with a drop of blue Loctite on each.
Were you going to replace your shifter, shifter bushings, transmission selector rod join (or seal), transmission output seal, or clutch? If yes, do that now. Actually do that before reconnecting front driveshaft.
Loosely bolt up CSB to body with 2 x 13mm nuts. Spin driveshaft by hand to make sure all is operating smoothly. Seating it into the butyl tape takes some effort, especially if it's cold.
Make sure bolt or locking collar holding driveshaft together is fairly snug (can tighten more later) and driveshaft spins smoothly. Make sure arrows on guibo are pointing to the flanges.Then tighten 6 guibo bolts. Torque spec is either 60 or 74 foot-lbs, depending what you read. If you have only 1 18mm wrench or socket, lock rear wheels with e-brake to tighten
Tighten driveshaft bolt or collar (lock e-brake if you didn't do so earlier). Don't know torque spec but I just made it "guttentight" around 40 foot-lbs.
Push CSB towards front of car to pre-load it. I pushed it almost all the way forward but since read you should only pre-load it 4mm forward, so my bad. Then tighten two 13mm nuts while holding it forward. This will push it into the butyl tape.
Reinstall transmission brace, I think torque is 16 foot-lbs on bolts. Lower nuts for transmission mounts torque to between 13 and 18 ft-lbs, depending what brand of mounts you have.
Reinstall rear heat shield (4 10mm bolts) then front heat shield (3 10mm speed nuts).
Reinstall exhaust. Not sure what is best way, probably slide front on to manifold studs first then raise up middle or rear using friend/jack. Bolt up middle brace, then muffler and transmission brace. Bolt those 8 loosely for now.
Reattach 4x15mm nuts to manifold. Make sure your new (or old) gaskets were in there, and don't forget reinforcing flange which fits over 3 of the 4 studs. Torque spec probably 24 ft-lbs.
Tighten up 8 exhaust bolts/nuts with 13mm socket (and extension for muffler, and 13mm wrench for transmission brace). Reinstall extra center brace with 2x13mm bolts. Torque spec for all 13mm bolts/nuts is probably 16 ft-lbs.
Replace wheels if needed.
Lower car, torque wheel bolts properly. Clean butyl tape off tools (WD-40) and dirt and soot off friend who helped lift exhaust. Test drive.


Photos of new guibo, courtesy of Pelican Parts. Shows arrow that should point to driveshaft or transmission flange.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Guibo/pic19.jpg

Bokchoy's photo showing guibo installed first on transmission (with arrows pointing at flanges), probably how I should have done it. See the small cylinder in the middle of the transmission output shaft (center of guibo hole)? I'm not sure if that's the driveshaft centering sleeve or the driveshaft centering sleeve installs into the driveshaft and fits over that bit on the output shaft.
http://www.bokchoys.com/differential/pictures/flex_disc_installation.jpg

A photo of my rear driveshaft after removing old CSB, with half of old butyl tape dangling from tunnel. You can see the splined section of rear half is much shorter than on the 5-speed and there's no place to put a lock ring/circlip. Also note central M12 threads where bolt goes to hold halves together.
7652

[LivesNearCostco]

And more pictures....

Rear ZHP driveshaft showing where the bearing sits. Note no place for circlip. Also the splined area is short enough a big socket should be enough to seat the bearing if needed, though again I just pushed it on by hand. Notice my sophisticated driveshaft support tool.
7664

Speaking of sockets or drifts, to seat bearing in carrier (hopefully yours came pre-installed), looks like a 2 1/16" or 2 1/8" OD (or 52-54mm OD) driver or socket is needed. To seat bearing on shaft may require a 1 1/8" or 1 1/4" ID (27-30mm ID) socket--possibly a deep socket--or PVC pipe and a mallet, if you can't just push it on.
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Close-up of new intermediate ring, which arrived after my project.
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Back and front of old CSB, showing how it sits in the carrier.
76637668

Also note the guibo reinforcing fibers are fabric, not metal as I first thought.

[MrMaico]

Nice work dude! Bookmarked for future reference.

[LivesNearCostco]

Hope it helps! If anyone has the driveshaft with the external locking collar and needs a new circlip, I should have one (that I don't need) this Friday. Free to any Mafia member in need (pay for shipping if you're outside the US).

[Bimmer37]

man this looks tough/time consuming...not sure I have it in me. Thanks for the write-up though! Will save for future reference...I probably have another 5-8k before I need to do this...currently only getting very slight vibration at the start of 1st gear on hills.

[LivesNearCostco]

I say replacing guibo only is not so time-consuming, could be as fast as 2 hours if you're comfortable putting the car on jack stands (or lift) and have dropped your exhaust before... AND you have 2 18mm box wrenches or one wrench and one 18mm socket. Doing CSB adds 1 to 3 hours, depending on driveshaft type and whether you need a puller and press/drift to remove/replace your CSB. My indie quoted me 3 billable hours and I finished it in 6 hours. It was my 2nd time dropping the exhaust. If I had to do it all over again, I could probably do it in 3.5 hours.

[Lanister]

Just followed your DYI to replace my CSB/Guibo. Pretty straight forward stuff and not as bad as I thought. A lot of it is in having the right set up and tools handy. I ended up having to make a trip to pick up a deep 15mm socket for the exhaust nuts and a bearing puller.

As far as putting the bearing back on. Although it came off easily, the new one did not want to go back on by hand. It would go about 1/4 of the way in max and get stuck. So I've attached the front part of the shaft (don't forget the washer that goes against the bearing) and just bolted them together. This pushed the bearing all the way where it should be. Then I took the shafts apart again to focus on the butyl tape affair and guibo install.

Thanks again for the instructions. :thumbsup

[LivesNearCostco]

Good to hear! Maybe I should amend the instructions to say deep 15mm socket is definitely required.

[WOLFN8TR]

Nice DIY! Sub'd...

[alexandre]

Nice DIY! My dealer recommended I swap out the guibo so I ordered that + 6 new nuts and bolts. Should I replace the CSB too if the car doesn't see any track use ? What are the symptoms of a failing CSB ? I'm at 220k.

[Lanister]

Nice DIY! My dealer recommended I swap out the guibo so I ordered that + 6 new nuts and bolts. Should I replace the CSB too if the car doesn't see any track use ? What are the symptoms of a failing CSB ? I'm at 220k.

You mean you've never replaced your CSB given the current mileage?! Perhaps the previous owner had done it? I just don't see how one could last that long. Or maybe yours has failed a while back or is about to.

Typical symptom of a failed CSB is vibration during hard acceleration. It's pretty hard to miss. My advice would be to definitely do it. It will only add another hour or two to the job but then you won't have to go back under the car again. The replacement itself is not difficult, I found that the setup for it was more time consuming than the actual job. I just did mine at 92k miles and although it wasn't entirely failed the flex areas of the rubber housing were cracked and it was just a matter of time before they would start to separate. Also, my car has always lived in California so it hasn't seen much water or cold temperatures, let alone snow/salt like cars often do on the East Coast. So given your location/mileage as well as the fact that you'll be doing the guibo anyways, it's a no-brainer.

[Vas]

Thanks for the DIY

[LivesNearCostco]

Good luck! I am up soon to to tackle the radiator replacement on my E36. I've replaced ET, water pumps (though not on a BMW), radiator hoses, thermostats, and heater hoses, but never replaced a radiator before. Still debating if I can re-seal the oil pan myself or if that needs to go to a shop.

[slater]

Good luck! I am up soon to to tackle the radiator replacement on my E36. I've replaced ET, water pumps (though not on a BMW), radiator hoses, thermostats, and heater hoses, but never replaced a radiator before. Still debating if I can re-seal the oil pan myself or if that needs to go to a shop.

if you have done all of that, a radiator is easy. it just involved careful filling and bleeding of the cooling system, that's it. you can do it.

peter

[Vas]

Ordered the parts for this DIY.

Got the following:

(1) Febi Driveshaft Flex Joint - $46.19 - Part number 26117511454
(6) OE BMW Flex joint Lock Nuts - $8.64 - Part number 26127536563
(1) OE BMW CSB - $72.46 - Part number 26127501257
(1) OE BMW Butyl Tape - $3.78 - Part number 26127511140

Total Cost in Parts - $131.03

I went with the Febi Flex Joint (Guibo) since it was much cheaper then a OE Genuine BMW unit which is $141.49. After examining it, I noticed that the BMW logo is ground off the Febi Unit so its as close to a Genuine part as possible.

As far as the actual CSB, Rein ($23.99) and Febi ($39.39) were an option and cheaper but I was not able to find good information if the quality is close to OE or not. So I spent a but more on an OE Genuine BMW CSB since this is the most important part of this job.

Wish me luck...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170713/b6693fefa20eaed14e273cee9641d168.jpg

[BMWCurves]

What's prompting you to do this? Is there a knocking sound or some sort of delay in the driveline?


I went with the Febi Flex Joint (Guibo) since it was much cheaper then a OE Genuine BMW unit which is $141.49. After examining it, I noticed that the BMW logo is ground off the Febi Unit so its as close to a Genuine part as possible.

As far as the actual CSB, Rein ($23.99) and Febi ($39.39) were an option and cheaper but I was not able to find good information if the quality is close to OE or not. So I spent a but more on an OE Genuine BMW CSB since this is the most important part of this job.

Good to know on the Febi Guibo, I'll store that info away for later.


Wish me luck...

http://i.imgur.com/abKc7uQ.gif

[Vas]

What's prompting you to do this? Is there a knocking sound or some sort of delay in the driveline?



Good to know on the Febi Guibo, I'll store that info away for later.



http://i.imgur.com/abKc7uQ.gif
I replied back in my project thread.

But the vehicle has visible cracks in the guibo and a vibration which I am guessing is from the csb. Or at least I hope but if the csb fails, the drive shaft will flop around in the carrier.

As far as mileage, I don't have an idea to when these parts fail.

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[LivesNearCostco]

yes good luck and may the Schwartz be with you, if your car is black!

[RUS_ZHP]

I replied back in my project thread.

But the vehicle has visible cracks in the guibo and a vibration which I am guessing is from the csb. Or at least I hope but if the csb fails, the drive shaft will flop around in the carrier.

As far as mileage, I don't have an idea to when these parts fail.

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That's how I replaced my guibo last year. It had visible cracks. I wasn't sure at what point do I have to change it and since the part is affordable, I changed it right away. Mileage on the original gioubo was 139k.

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[Vas]

yes good luck and may the Schwartz be with you, if your car is black!

Close Enough. Black Sapphire Metallic


That's how I replaced my guibo last year. It had visible cracks. I wasn't sure at what point do I have to change it and since the part is affordable, I changed it right away. Mileage on the original gioubo was 139k.

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Do you recall what condition the CSB was in?

[RUS_ZHP]

Do you recall what condition the CSB was in?[/QUOTE]

It was pretty good condition for the mileage. I changed cbs because drive shaft needs to be removed anyways.
I cannot find pictures of guibo and cbs for the reference.


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[Vas]

Tackled this job today.

Pics below of the original part with 161k on them. Also the new csb installed and the guibo.

In my case, I did not remove the exhaust. Little more effort with it still installed but it's doable.



https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/83cd7e1af2c68c86d5e6804d62aae064.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/e6e4e3c50d502dfe1cc24726234a17df.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/2fb39c8435999a9bd68fd214f82d361b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170716/8e2c6e3b82a1af33cff34719cff77ead.jpg

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[fredo]

Very good. Do you notice a difference while driving ?

[Vas]

Very good. Do you notice a difference while driving ?
Sure did. The vibration while accelerating around 3k rpm is gone.

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