Lean codes, fuel delivery issues?

[static667]

As most of you know, I swapped out my stock 2.5 liter for a 3.0 back in December. I have not been able to track down the source of my lean running condition. I've got the classic "lean bank one, lean bank two" with misfires across the board codes. My symptoms are, crappy throttle response, surging idle when slowing down and sometimes at a stop, stuttering on light acceleration, and low idle. The engine that I installed had the matching intake manifold along with injectors and fuel rail.
So far I have:
Flashed the DME three times with different programming
Changed the fuel pump and filter
Ran several courses of Lucas injector cleaner
Done an ether vacuum leak test
Cleaned and changed the ICV several times

All of the following parts are new that I replaced on install of the engine:
DISA valve
Upper and lower intake boot
MAF sensor
Both pre-cat O2 sensors
NGK laser platinum plugs
VANOS seals
All major gaskets
PCV valve
Throttle body and gasket
All vacuum hoses
M3 timing chain tensioner
Oil pump nut
Front and rear shaft seals

What should I try next? It seems like it really is running lean and not just the computer saying so. Could I have some trash in the fuel rail? I'm thinking about pulling the fuel hose loose at the outlet side of the filter and blowing air through from the fron of the fuel rail. I'm at a bit of a loss here.

Sent from my yet to be hacked GS3.

[Dave_B]

CCV hoses? I see you said valve, but did you re-use old hoses?

I'd assume, based on symptoms you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Have you done any smoke testing yet?

[Johnmadd]

Is there a way to test the brake booster... if you pump your brake pedal (multiple times fast) at idle does the idle change? Also, is there a valve between the booster and the vacuum lines?

[BimmerWill]

Is the fuel pressure regulator on the filter set at a different level on the 325 vs 330? Stock filter may be downsizing the fuel you need? This is just completely out of left field but something that popped into my head.

[static667]

CCV hoses? I see you said valve, but did you re-use old hoses?

I'd assume, based on symptoms you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Have you done any smoke testing yet?

I gave the CCV hoses a pretty good inspection before I reused them. There could be one with an issue. I'll have to light a cigar early on Sunday and smoke test the area.


Is there a way to test the brake booster... if you pump your brake pedal (multiple times fast) at idle does the idle change? Also, is there a valve between the booster and the vacuum lines?

I don't think there is a problem involving the brake vacuum lines but, I'm going to get someone to help with that while I'm smoking on Sunday.


Is the fuel pressure regulator on the filter set at a different level on the 325 vs 330? Stock filter may be downsizing the fuel you need? This is just completely out of left field but something that popped into my head.

I had that thought as well but, they run the same filter/regulator.

[kayger12]

I'm still thinking brake booster related.

Sent from my kick-A Galaxy S3

[Hornung418]

Brake vac lines seem suspect as is the CCVV.

The vac lines have a one way valve that mounts to the manifokd and runs to the F connection on the intake boot and the lower end atraches beneath the throttle body. That vac line should be remoced and thoroughly inspected and all mounting points cleaned.

If the CCVV is original to the chassis, replace it with a new one.

Inspect the SAP and valve that mounts to the head. Bad hoses will allow condensation build up and rust the pump and valve. The vac lines that run behind the manifold have one purpose; provide positive vacuum to the pump. Inspect the lines AND check valve that mounts on the back of the manifold.

Only other option left could be a faulty MAF...But you bought that new unused.

Best of luck, Kyle.

From a GS3, this was sent.

[static667]

Brake vac lines seem suspect as is the CCVV.

The vac lines have a one way valve that mounts to the manifokd and runs to the F connection on the intake boot and the lower end atraches beneath the throttle body. That vac line should be remoced and thoroughly inspected and all mounting points cleaned.

If the CCVV is original to the chassis, replace it with a new one.

Inspect the SAP and valve that mounts to the head. Bad hoses will allow condensation build up and rust the pump and valve. The vac lines that run behind the manifold have one purpose; provide positive vacuum to the pump. Inspect the lines AND check valve that mounts on the back of the manifold.

Only other option left could be a faulty MAF...But you bought that new unused.

Best of luck, Kyle.

From a GS3, this was sent.

The CCV is brand new and all of the vacuum lines run behind and around the head are new, as well. I'll go through all of my vacuum lines again and smoke test it this weekend.

Sent from my yet to be hacked GS3.

[static667]

I built a smoke tester and checked out my car yesterday. There were no leaks to be found. I called my neighnor over to check out the contraption. After messing with it and not finding anything, we brainstormed amd decided it may be a DOA MAF. I ran around with it unplugged today and it runs better. Going to be calling ECS Tuning, where I ordered it, and seeing about a warranty exchange. I really believe that is the issue. Thoughts?

Sent from my yet to be hacked GS3.

[Dave_B]

I've understood it as this.

Car running, unplug MAF. If no change in idle, then the MAF is done for.

I tested this too when checking my lean codes. As I pulled MAF connector, car almost died and gave me 2 additional codes.

[alexandre]

I built a smoke tester and checked out my car yesterday. There were no leaks to be found. I called my neighnor over to check out the contraption. After messing with it and not finding anything, we brainstormed amd decided it may be a DOA MAF. I ran around with it unplugged today and it runs better. Going to be calling ECS Tuning, where I ordered it, and seeing about a warranty exchange. I really believe that is the issue. Thoughts?

Sent from my yet to be hacked GS3.

Is there anyone local with a 330 that could swap in their MAF just to test ? Indy/dealer/scrapyard ?

[static667]

Is there anyone local with a 330 that could swap in their MAF just to test ? Indy/dealer/scrapyard ?

Nope. Nobody close to me. Kinda out on my own. I will admit that the MAF I purchased is a really cheap one so getting one that is sending a bad signal is possible.

Sent from my yet to be hacked GS3.

[alexandre]

You're probably better off swapping in a used OEM one... Mine lasted until 157k so any MAF sub >80k should be pretty cheap and as good as new.

What DME are you running ? I hear the MS45.1 units are very finicky when it comes to air sensors (O2, MAF, etc.).

[static667]

You're probably better off swapping in a used OEM one... Mine lasted until 157k so any MAF sub >80k should be pretty cheap and as good as new.

What DME are you running ? I hear the MS45.1 units are very finicky when it comes to air sensors (O2, MAF, etc.).

I have the MS43 that came standard with the 325i. The only thing I had to do was flash the right software, which I did.

Sent from my yet to be hacked GS3.

[static667]

My problem is not a faulty MAF. I've been driving for the past week with it unhooked and its been running fine, aside from not being able to heel-toe and no cruise control. Upon connecting the new one, it went right back to the same old shit. Bad / delayed throttle response, stuttering under moderate acceleration, and crappy, rough idle.

WTF is the deal? This is really pissing me off. I just want my car to run properly.

Sent from my yet to be hacked GS3.

[alexandre]

Did you reset adaptations after flashing the DME?

[static667]

Did you reset adaptations after flashing the DME?

Yes. I may reset the adaptations again tonight just for kicks.

Sent from my yet to be hacked GS3.

[Hornung418]

Have you cleaned your connections?

From a GS3, this was sent.

[Dave_B]

How does one reset the adaptations?

[danewilson77]

Unplug battery for 30 minutes.

[Hornung418]

Requires more than that DW. clearing all adaptations from the DME requires a GT1 emulator like WinKFP or INPA.

From a GS3, this was sent.

[danewilson77]

Requires more than that DW. clearing all adaptations from the DME requires a GT1 emulator like WinKFP or INPA.

From a GS3, this was sent.

Oh. What am I thinking of?

Sent from the HTC DNA, Williamsburg, VA and USA

[alexandre]

Requires more than that DW. clearing all adaptations from the DME requires a GT1 emulator like WinKFP or INPA.

From a GS3, this was sent.

Yup. You can do it with a PASoft scanner too (BMW Scanner 1.4)

[static667]

After driving around a bit with the new MAF, the issues started to dwindle. So today, I plugged in the laptop today, cleared my codes, and reset my DME adapts. Right now, the SES light is out, of course it would be out for a while after clearing codes anyway, and everything seems to be running normally. I'll be updating y'all soon as to whether or not this was successful.

[danewilson77]

Great news Kyle

[Johnmadd]

Great news Kyle

+1 That's gre

[kayger12]

After driving around a bit with the new MAF, the issues started to dwindle. So today, I plugged in the laptop today, cleared my codes, and reset my DME adapts. Right now, the SES light is out, of course it would be out for a while after clearing codes anyway, and everything seems to be running normally. I'll be updating y'all soon as to whether or not this was successful.

Very happy to read this.

Sent from my kick-A Galaxy S3

[static667]

SES light is back as I figured it would be.:cry Got the lean bank one and two with a new guest, MAF voltage too high. My friend at Auto Zone said a volgage too high reading usually means a low voltage ground issue. Great. How in the hell am I supposed to find that? I'm now back on a hate swing in the love/hate relationship I have with my car.

Sent from my yet to be hacked GS3.

[NorCalZman]

Bummer to hear, man. Is there a point at which you will throw up your hands and take it to a mechanic or BMW? I know its not cheap, but the stress relief might be worth good money. lol.

[static667]

Bummer to hear, man. Is there a point at which you will throw up your hands and take it to a mechanic or BMW? I know its not cheap, but the stress relief might be worth good money. lol.

The closest BMW stealership is about two hours from here. I think there is a guy in my area that does German cars but, I'm not sure. I'll see if there is anyone near me who may have a better idea. This is really getting old.

Sent from my yet to be hacked GS3.

[Dave_B]

Where in NC are you? I'd be more than happy to lend a hand.

I've got a test light and multimeter ready to roll.

I'm in Greenville, SC.

[static667]

Northeast NC. About as far northeast as you can get. I appreciate the offer, man. I'll be poking around with my multimeter this weekend a bit to see what I can figure out.

Sent from my yet to be hacked GS3.

[Hornung418]

Check your starter ground points and check your battery terminal posts for corrosion.

From a GS3, this was sent.