P0174 and P0171 SES

[Dave_B]

So, just today as I was warming up the car this morning to head out to breakfast I go to jump in and notice the SES is on.

Pre-cursor

Yesterday I drove it in the snow on the way back from the range. So weather was cold and grill area did have snow all in it. No issues on the drive or anything like that.

Most recent work (little over a week ago) was the cooling system, all of it. During that I replaced the upper intake boot, closest to the air box.

So, it's Bank 1 and Bank 2 lean. No idling issues, and no loss of power that I've noticed.

I've read this could be MAF, DISA, dirty MAF, crack in Intake Boot, Vacuum leak.

Before I go throwing parts at it, I'd like to really track it down. So what are you guys' thoughts on proceeding? Clean MAF and inspect boot? Spray carb cleaner and search for vacuum leak? Common places for these types of Vacuum leaks?

Thanks guys!

[alexandre]

Definitely do a MAF cleanup before anything else.

Are you on stock airbox ? If not, oiled filters often foul the sensor and make it report false readings.

[Dave_B]

Should have mentioned that. Stock box for now.

Luckily I'm on my 2 week field rotation and won't need the car for 2 weeks and plan to look at this stuff after hours.

[BCS_ZHP]

Check that little "F" plastic connector on the upper boot. It's very easy to crack and not notice, and only a $5 part. The small diameter hose that attaches to the smaller fitting on that "F" connector is also suspect, it crystallizes from the underhood heat.

[aurelius]

Roll me the tumbling dice on the lower intake boot.

[Dave_B]

Picked up some MAF cleaner tonight. Out to the garage I go...

[Dave_B]

Well... MAF is cleaned now with CRC MAF cleaner, plastic F connector looks good, hoses on it also look ok. I inspected the lower boot as best I could with the upper still in place. Is there a specific place it cracks?

GT1 is coming this weekend, hopefully that'll get to the bottom of this, along with my SRS light being on.

[mLuMaN83]

I had same codes... Bad Disa. Just replaced it.
hope u get it all figured out.

[Dave_B]

What determines a bad DISA? Are there any tell tale signs?

[aurelius]

Well... MAF is cleaned now with CRC MAF cleaner, plastic F connector looks good, hoses on it also look ok. I inspected the lower boot as best I could with the upper still in place. Is there a specific place it cracks?

I recently saw a great photo that would answer your question but I can't remember where it is. But the answer is the little tube coming off the larger one. It is best to remove it so you can bend it and really see any cracks. It is extremely common to have a crack there.

[mLuMaN83]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNYUhWk6WUc


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s82CIF28zhU

[aurelius]

Btw, it is a PITA to remove from motor if yours is factory-original, due to hose clamp location. Clearly these were mounted before motor went into engine compartment. You can however reinstall the clamp in a position that makes it much easier to remove in future.

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?1536-BMW-E46-Upper-and-lower-intake-boot-removal-DISA-inspection

7277

[Dave_B]

Funny you mention that. I used my 6mm wrench for the first time when doing the cooling system a week ago.

I also read up on some of the DISA stuff. Kinda makes sense in my case. I have power concerns from time to time in my car. I'll pull the plug while it's running to see if the noise goes away and/or pull it to see how the flap looks.

Sounds like I've got some work to do. LOL

[aurelius]

It's very easy to remove the DISA. You'll need T40 bits. That lower boot is a different story. Have a new one on hand if you decide to cut the old one in order to access the clamp.

[Dave_B]

I probably should have just replaced both when I did the cooling system. I ripped the upper getting it out of my way so off to the dealership the wife went. She's a good parts fetcher I swear.

I've got bits, Sears had a decent set of them for ~$10 when I was there last. Figured it's $6 each or a few of them for 10. Guess which route I took LOL.

[Dave1027]

Btw, it is a PITA to remove from motor if yours is factory-original, due to hose clamp location. Clearly these were mounted before motor went into engine compartment. You can however reinstall the clamp in a position that makes it much easier to remove in future.

Might be easier to simply cut off the old clamps and get new ones.

BTW, those codes usually do indicate some kind of vacuum leak.

[aurelius]

I also read up on some of the DISA stuff. Kinda makes sense in my case. I have power concerns from time to time in my car. I'll pull the plug while it's running to see if the noise goes away and/or pull it to see how the flap looks.

If your power concerns are at idle (bogging down, stalling), then a vac leak or VANOS issue are the usual suspects. If your power issue is at 2800-3k RPM in higher gears under load (accelerating on to a highway or up a hill), FYI that's also a well documented topic and the solution is to update your DME to the latest version. This can be done at a BMW dealer or at a properly equipped indie shop and is not terribly expensive. Most have done it for $100-200 (manual trans).

[Dave_B]

Can the DME be updated via a GT1? If so, anyone know how?

Car does not idle funny, or stall. Idle is just fine and RPM doesn't fluctuate.

Power has been "wishy washy" At near 3-4500 RPM's Sometimes it feels like it has more power than other times. Weird, sorta like a slipping clutch, but RPM's don't climb and clutch isn't slipping. I suppose I could attribute this to the DISA flap moving around and sometimes being open when not needed, and closed with not supposed to be?

in either case, I'll try the senor pull trick tonight, and pull the DISA and inspect the valve/flap thing.

[Dave_B]

Got home a couple minutes early today and decided to take a look at this.

Haven't pulled the DISA yet, but I listened closer and it doesn't sound anything like what I've heard in video's. Also, pulling the connected make no audible change.

What I did notice as I listened closer was what sounds like a vacuum leak or rushing air on the intake manifold side near the DISA. Is there anything in that general area that is common to have issues?

I still plan on pulling the DISA and examining, but superficially it looks like that may not be it.

Back to the MAF, any way to test those?

[alexandre]

Got home a couple minutes early today and decided to take a look at this.

Haven't pulled the DISA yet, but I listened closer and it doesn't sound anything like what I've heard in video's. Also, pulling the connected make no audible change.

What I did notice as I listened closer was what sounds like a vacuum leak or rushing air on the intake manifold side near the DISA. Is there anything in that general area that is common to have issues?

I still plan on pulling the DISA and examining, but superficially it looks like that may not be it.

Back to the MAF, any way to test those?

Unplug it - it might trigger SES but the DME will use it's default values instead of those. If the car runs noticeably smoother, you've found your culprit. Keep in mind it might just need a cleanup (CRC SensorKleen)

[Dave_B]

Unplug it - it might trigger SES but the DME will use it's default values instead of those. If the car runs noticeably smoother, you've found your culprit. Keep in mind it might just need a cleanup (CRC SensorKleen)

I don't think it's the MAF, but I'll give that a go. Already did the CRC cleaner yesterday with no noticeable changes. Car idles great.

Brother (Bimmer tech) made a suggestion. As I described the sound, he mentioned the CCV air hose. This would cause a vacuum leak and the location I mentioned he says is right where he'd guess one of the hoses would crack.

Now, off to pull the fuel rail cover and look at hoses.

[alexandre]

I don't think it's the MAF, but I'll give that a go. Already did the CRC cleaner yesterday with no noticeable changes. Car idles great.

Brother (Bimmer tech) made a suggestion. As I described the sound, he mentioned the CCV air hose. This would cause a vacuum leak and the location I mentioned he says is right where he'd guess one of the hoses would crack.

Now, off to pull the fuel rail cover and look at hoses.

If you're on the original one, with your mileage, you're due. The CCV system doesn't fail instantly, its performance degrades gradually... Up until 120-130k.

[Dave_B]

I've only owned the car for 4 weeks now. No clue on degradation of performance.

Most maintenance has NOT been done on this car. I also don't have much history on work. Maybe that's why I got it so cheap. :P

Lastly, car has 141k on it. Simple enough to pull the MAF connector and check for changes, and also pull the fuel rail cover and check there too. I'll report back after dinner.

[alexandre]

Put CCV on your to-do list then... Are you in a northern state ?

[aurelius]

Worth reading re CCV:


Click HERE (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=773551) for an E46f thread that gets straight to the point re the lower oil drain hose connecting the CCV to the dipstick tube. Bottom line is it fails regularly, causes a rough idle (especially in cold weather), may save you from full CCV rehab, and is cheap/easy. Note: in addition to the part number mentioned in the DIY, there's another, insulated version of that hose. Same price as non-insulated.

Amazing how many respondents to that thread have found this hose to have disintegrated.

[Dave_B]

In SC, but it has been "cold" lately.

I read there are 3 symptoms of a CCV going out.

Mine falls in line with Symptom 1.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1392141

1) Cracks in the air hoses leading to and from the CCV.
Symptoms: lean condition, P0171 and P0174.
Diagnosis: Remove oil filler cap while at idle. Leaking CCV system will cause stumbling and a very strong suction on the oil filler cap.

2) Failure to separate oil from vapor
Symptoms: More-than-expected oil consumption - oily crankcase gases are being returned to the intake instead of separated properly.
Diagnosis: Check plugs and DISA for oil contamination.

3) Clogged with oil-ice or sludge
Symptoms: 'splosions in the engine bay
Cause: Short trips in cold weather, allowing moisture (inherent to gasoline combustion) to get in the oil and never burn off. Moisture mixes with oil and makes yellow snot. Yellow snot sticks in CCV, car is left outside in freezing temperature, snot turns to ice-snot, then the crankcase vapors that the CCV is supposed to separate instead just build pressure inside the crankcase... until POW!
Early Diagnosis: yellow goo or black sludge under the valve cover or on the underside of the filler cap
Late diagnosis: oil all over the place, terrible lean conditions, maybe oil fills the cylinders, wallet vanishes.

[alexandre]

Does BMW mayo under cap indicates failing CCV ? I have some, but I was told it was 100% normal for short winter driving.

[Dave_B]

Is that the yellow mixed whatever? LOL @ BMW Mayo.

So, pulling the MAF while the car was running... HA! Added 2 new codes and car stumbled before recovering.

Pulled the fuel rail cover (and of course brittle plastic = broke one of the circle cover pieces with the silver lines in it) I can clearly hear some sort of leak/hissing. Here's a pic of where I think it's coming from:

http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb133/00h2itr/2E2BF2E3-01BB-48D5-A459-18CD7487A7D2-735-0000003903C94000_zps0bc4a8d1.jpg

[Dave_B]

Quick video

http://s209.photobucket.com/albums/bb133/00h2itr/?action=view&current=5D5FE55B-6A9D-46E8-9164-DF3024943A5B-735-0000003913926FBA_zpsd0f3641f.mp4

[aurelius]

BMW Service Information Bulletin 11 08 03 (July, 2010), click HERE (https://dl.dropbox.com/u/17676561/BMW%20docs/SIB%20110803%20ColdWeatherOilSep.pdf).

[Dave_B]

And that's what I was thinking too. I wonder if I should smoke test it first or just move on and replace.

I suppose I could do the VC oil cap test by placing something over it and checking for suction.

2 questions. What makes you think it's the CCV? Location? Noise you hear in video? And I'm on pelican shopping... Says some are cold climate version and others are not. Car is originally from FL, can't imagine it has a cold climate version? Any definitive way to tell?

Thanks to all of your assisting. I feel stupid working this car LOL

[Dave_B]

Another note... it appears under the intake manifold, below the intake elbows, I have oil. Would this also be due to the lower hose for the CCV?

[aurelius]

I suppose I could do the VC oil cap test by placing something over it and checking for suction.
2 questions. What makes you think it's the CCV? Location? Noise you hear in video? And I'm on pelican shopping... Says some are cold climate version and others are not. Car is originally from FL, can't imagine it has a cold climate version? Any definitive way to tell?


Run the CCV tests (there are a couple, see HERE (https://dl.dropbox.com/u/17676561/BMW%20docs/E46%20Common%20Problems.txt)) but at your mileage and if you're simply (ha!) looking to eliminate issues, do the whole CCV rehab. I have not done it, it is known to be a big PITA, tho not expensive on a DIY basis. I intend to do the CCV valve itself plus the drain hose on a preventive basis but I'm only at 70k and in a warm climate.

As for whether you have the cold vs warm climate CCV hoses, you can replace with hoses from either version, see realoem.com. The cold version have foam insulation on the rubber hoses. You can run your VIN to see how it was done @ factory (http://www.bmwvin.com/).


Another note... it appears under the intake manifold, below the intake elbows, I have oil. Would this also be due to the lower hose for the CCV?

Maybe the usual PS drip? But if you see oil on the waffle-looking area on the left (driver's side) of engine, then you have the OFHG leak. If so, see these:


DIY below doesn't mention tools specifically but seems to provide most of the bolt head sizes (therefore socket sizes) you'll need:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=657887

And this guy's cardboard template for keeping track of the variously sized filter housing bolts is a good idea. See that at about 17:00:

http://youtu.be/Jy0EKjuxlpY

[Dave_B]

Thanks again, Auelius.

Here is my plan of action:

Pull DISA and check function. Is rod broken? Is insert rounded out? Check o-ring

Replace lower intake boot. I should have done it when I did the upper while doing the Cooling system refresh.

Clean ICV

Inspect all hoses for CCV from top and bottom. Replace any cracked for now, with intensions to do the whole system shortly.

Reason for only the cracked hoses... wife is already giving me the eye, car is 4 weeks new to me and I've dumped $700 in it already. :P

[danewilson77]

Also perform vacuum hold test on disa.

Tell her she's lucky it isn't more like $2k.

Williamsburg, VA, Droid DNA, Tapatalk

[Dave_B]

LOL, thanks DW.

She was actually against a Bimmer after a good friend got an M5 (E60) and has poured $$$ into that one WITH A WARRANTY.

With my cost of admission, I convinced her it wasn't a bad idea.

[aurelius]

Here is my plan of action:
Pull DISA and check function. Is rod broken? Is insert rounded out? Check o-ring

There's no actual o-ring. It's some sort of gasket material that will probably be in rough shape and could even be the source of your hissing noise. Meantime, you can do the electrical tape trick.

Also: it is possible your DISA was replaced at some point or that your car has the newer version from factory. Check the p/n on it. Newer p/n ends in 805.

See DISA repair instructions HERE (http://www.germanautosolutions.com/diy_tech/disa_repair_kit/m54_disa_kit_diy.php). Step 3 details how to test for vacuum leak. If it won't hold, don't get the repair kit bc you'll need a new DISA.


Replace lower intake boot.That's the ticket.


Clean ICVRe the big rubber grommet that seals the ICV to the motor: be sure it is in decent shape and also that the ICV fits back into it properly upon re-installation. If you need or want a new one, P/N is 11611437453.


Inspect all hoses for CCV from top and bottom. Replace any cracked for now, with intensions to do the whole system shortly.
Lotta work. You may want to have a look at condition of drain hose mentioned previously and do the rest during full rehab. As my mechanic says, "I'm not buying the same real estate twice."

EDIT: just found this semi-hidden gem with more info on the upcoming CCV solution from GAS:
http://www.germanautosolutions.com/bmw_solutions/ccv_products/m54_gas_ccv/product_m54_ccv.php


Reason for only the cracked hoses... wife is already giving me the eye, car is 4 weeks new to me and I've dumped $700 in it already. :PAt your mileage and with or without a service history, all of this is the typical E46 stuff and is to be expected. Sounds like you're still well in the black with what you paid for the car and have spent since.

[Dave_B]

Well...

CCV lower line from Dipstick to CCV is NOT cracked, from what I can tell. Ran my hand down it and I don't feel anything. I can't visually see any other vacuum hoses that are shot.

Decided to pull DISA for S&G's

DISA is older unit, doesn't end in 805, but appears to be working ok. Flap returns and all that. HOWEVER, it's soaked. And smells heavily of fuel and oil.

http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb133/00h2itr/54673C50-F87A-4298-96DB-3D35A7A6F74B-735-000000DA1D4B0ADE_zps90c9ed18.jpg

Is that the correct position for the flap when it's out?

And in the hole:

http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb133/00h2itr/E6CA8ECC-0E8D-4852-8939-D32F63EBEDBF-735-000000DA33056C81_zps75d25c7e.jpg

Brother swears it's indicative of the CCV unit.

[danewilson77]

Yes...that is correct position. Did it vacuum test pass?

Most have a bit of grit in the intake plenum as you show.

[Dave_B]

I must have missed it DW. What is the vacuum test for the DISA?

[Dave_B]

Also, I assume this means Warm Climate version:

S823A HEISSLAND-AUSFUEHRUNG Hot-climate version

From the site Aurelius mentioned. Car was originally from FL and has been in SC since. I guess it's "hot" up here?

Also, found the Vacuum Pot test. DISA is a-ok.

[alexandre]

Also, I assume this means Warm Climate version:

S823A HEISSLAND-AUSFUEHRUNG Hot-climate version

From the site Aurelius mentioned. Car was originally from FL and has been in SC since. I guess it's "hot" up here?

Also, found the Vacuum Pot test. DISA is a-ok.

All this oil on the DISA make me seriously think it's the CCV... My DISA didn't have a drop of oil on it when I changed the O-ring in December. Just fuel.

[Dave_B]

I've def. got both. And a hissing sound that appears to be coming from just below the intake manifold.

Just wiped down the flap to make sure. While it's mostly fuel there is oil there as well.

And how did you change the o-ring? I thought it was just a gasket? I def. have some fuel/oil getting by there.

[Dave_B]

So I found these:

http://www.oembimmerparts.com/product_p/CRKCSKITAE46CC.htm?gclid=CPOVsqbnyLUCFQ3NnAodh3UAj A

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=11-61-7-534-237-M9&catalog_description=Oil%20Separator%2FVent%20Valve %20Assembly%20%28Cold%20Climate%20Version%29%20for %20Crankcase%20Ventilation%20System%20%28Includes% 3A%20Insulated%20Oil%20Separator%20and%20Insulated %20Hoses%29%2C%20323Ci%2FCi%20Conv%2C%20328i%2FCi% 2C%20330i%2FXi%2FCi%2FCi%20Conv%2C%20325i%2F325i%2 0M54%20Wagon%2C%20325Ci%2FCi%20M54%20Conv%2C%20325 Xi%2FXi%20Wagon%2C%20Each%20%20%20

I'm curious if the second link has all of the hoses the first one has even though the picture only shows 2. I've sent Pelican an email to clarify.

[alexandre]

So I found these:

http://www.oembimmerparts.com/product_p/CRKCSKITAE46CC.htm?gclid=CPOVsqbnyLUCFQ3NnAodh3UAj A

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=11-61-7-534-237-M9&catalog_description=Oil%20Separator%2FVent%20Valve %20Assembly%20%28Cold%20Climate%20Version%29%20for %20Crankcase%20Ventilation%20System%20%28Includes% 3A%20Insulated%20Oil%20Separator%20and%20Insulated %20Hoses%29%2C%20323Ci%2FCi%20Conv%2C%20328i%2FCi% 2C%20330i%2FXi%2FCi%2FCi%20Conv%2C%20325i%2F325i%2 0M54%20Wagon%2C%20325Ci%2FCi%20M54%20Conv%2C%20325 Xi%2FXi%20Wagon%2C%20Each%20%20%20

I'm curious if the second link has all of the hoses the first one has even though the picture only shows 2. I've sent Pelican an email to clarify.

2nd is missing some parts. Full kit is this: http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=PEL-CCVVCW

As for the DISA o-ring, this is the part: http://www.germanautosolutions.com/bmw_solutions/disa_products/m54_m52tu/m54_disa_o_rings/product_m54_disa_o_rings.php

[aurelius]

And how did you change the o-ring? I thought it was just a gasket?

http://www.germanautosolutions.com/bmw_solutions/disa_products/index_disa_products.php

[Dave_B]

Thanks! So the OEM Bimmer parts site is the better there.

I'll get the o-ring as well.

[aurelius]

Buy their repair kit, which includes o-ring.

[alexandre]

Thanks! So the OEM Bimmer parts site is the better there.

I'll get the o-ring as well.

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2550214

:thumbsup

[Dave_B]

Just sayin... but I love this family!!!

[danewilson77]

Just sayin... but I love this family!!!

Yup. For the most part.....we know our shit.

[aurelius]

http://www.oembimmerparts.com/product_p/CRKCSKITAE46CC.htm?gclid=CPOVsqbnyLUCFQ3NnAodh3UAj A


FWIW and not that it'll solve the problem long term, but all 7 of those part numbers (Genuine BMW) total around $145-150. See HERE (http://www.bmwmercedesparts.com/partlocator).

But I'd wait, if at all possible, for whatever GAS has up their sleeves, availability of which seems imminent.

[Dave_B]

I'd love to wait. Likely I'll confirm this weekend the issue with a second opinion and then get to replacing.

While these fixes are good for 60-80k, it's unlikely I'll keep the car that long.

[Dave_B]

So, as I continued to dig on the web yesterday I found that the DISA gasket, well it isn't supposed to be so flat. Also, with my mileage it should have been harder to pull out of the car.

In my reading, I came across this thread:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897595

Brilliant! Replace the O-ring as suggested previously in this thread. Only this is local and I could go pick it up. Figure, my BMW mechanic was coming over tomorrow, I might as well put the car back together so before I did that, I ran down to go pick up this O-ring.

It's a FelPro gasket/o-ring for a 91-94 Ford Probe. FelPro PN 35489.

Took a bit to get all of the old gasket out. Luckily I have pick tools already and had very small screw driver for laptops. About 15 minutes later I had all of the old gasket material out, and new o-ring in place. Install was a breeze. Went down and got codes reset (in diagnosing, not only did I have P0174 and P0171 but 3 more from pulling the MAF while running) Thanks a ton David (who's on here) for reseting them, even though that is not Advances policy.

Now, we wait...

Parts (hammer not needed, this time...)
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb133/00h2itr/DE9CCE43-831C-4373-A89E-2A0B1F373F16-4478-000001CBB8257DAF_zps6c95622e.jpg

Gasket removal

http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb133/00h2itr/ADD22353-C122-49DB-AA68-E74581BAE567-4478-000001CBD41E40DF_zps9a6b4f61.jpg

New gasket in place

http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb133/00h2itr/F92547A5-D3A1-4173-8252-B0CB7F6FD778-4478-000001CBDDB862FA_zps56304152.jpg

for now, no SES!!!

http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb133/00h2itr/ABCD9BC4-8D7D-4555-B334-F393AA14C727-4478-000001CBE348073C_zpsc0087bb3.jpg

[danewilson77]

#likeabauce

[mLuMaN83]

So twas the DISA.

Like a baws!

http://www.atbreak.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/like-a-boss.jpg

[Dave_B]

Well, not sure yet. I'm sure the code can come back so I won't call it "fixed" until a month ~250 miles.

I sure hope it was just a $7.50 fix. That would ROCK! Then I can move on to things I WANT to do, not NEED...

[mLuMaN83]

Honestly I personally would have just put in a new DISA but thats me. I try to avoid future problems as much as I can. But yeah, hope that works out!

[Dave_B]

EDIT: Someone Ninja's that shark in there. :P Wasn't there a minute ago. Ha!

That brings me around to another point...

So obviously, I'm a previous Honda owner. My generic OBD-II scanner I got on Amazon for $20 would read the codes, but not erase them. That was the reason for my trip to Advance Auto. Their in store scanner too wouldn't erase them, but the guy who was scanning my car, also had the E36 in the lot. He went to his car and grabbed his scanner and it worked flawless. I took a pic of his to look for myself. Wondered you guys' thoughts on this particular scanner.

http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb133/00h2itr/E13DE476-6315-4A8D-84A3-BEDB3FB9888F-4478-000001D368BFD1EC_zpsbcee4439.jpg

It's on Amazon as well, here:

http://www.amazon.com/OBD2-Reader-Diagnostic-OBD-MT-50/dp/B004IV58AY/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

[Dave_B]

Honestly I personally would have just put in a new DISA but thats me. I try to avoid future problems as much as I can. But yeah, hope that works out!

Believe me, I'm with you there. But it wasn't broken and I just 2 weeks ago did the cooling system. I've owned the car for 6 weeks now. I've already been bleeding out the wallet from it. LOL Also, the DISA is an easy one to replace. Had it been CCV, I wouldn't do just a single line due to the hours it takes to work on that.

[quikryptonite]

Glad it's fixed man. In the future, keep your eye on the CCV. When I was going through the mess I followed basically the same thing you did, and it turned out being the CCV.

[Dave_B]

I've got a list of to-do's CCV is on there, OFHG, VCG, plugs, trans fluid, diff fluid, fuel filter, cabin filter, air filter.

The cooling system caught me a little early on which is why the others have been put off, for this month.

[quikryptonite]

Ah, the joys of car ownership! Seriously though, I've found this is one of the easiest engines to work on. Plus, when you get her all fixed up and take her out on some twisties, it's always worth it!

[Dave_B]

I'm actually scheduling a that trip soon. Luckily, it's only about an hour north of me.

[WOLFN8TR]

http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb133/00h2itr/54673C50-F87A-4298-96DB-3D35A7A6F74B-735-000000DA1D4B0ADE_zps90c9ed18.jpg

http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb133/00h2itr/E6CA8ECC-0E8D-4852-8939-D32F63EBEDBF-735-000000DA33056C81_zps75d25c7e.jpg


So this is fairly common to see oil and sandy grit? This is what mine looked like also, apparently my DISA oring was leaking before I owned my ZHP and they just put high temp forma gasket around it. I almost couldn't get it out!

[danewilson77]

Common.

[WOLFN8TR]

Common.

Cool, thanks.

[chris]

...My generic OBD-II scanner I got on Amazon for $20 would read the codes, but not erase them. That was the reason for my trip to Advance Auto. Their in store scanner too wouldn't erase them, but the guy who was scanning my car, also had the E36 in the lot. He went to his car and grabbed his scanner and it worked flawless. I took a pic of his to look for myself. Wondered you guys' thoughts on this particular scanner
....
It's on Amazon as well, here:

http://www.amazon.com/OBD2-Reader-Diagnostic-OBD-MT-50/dp/B004IV58AY/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
So this was able to clear codes for the zhp? I have a $20 amazon one as well, but it can't clear codes

[Dave_B]

Yes, hands down would not spend the $ on a generic ebay or amazon OBD-II Scanner.

For $6 more, get the BMW scanner from Ebay with PA Soft. Way WAY better.

That post was made prior to using the following:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Code-Read-Scanner-1-4-0-v-Never-Locking-On-Sale-A-2-G236-/221232771687?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item3382803267&vxp=mtr

You'll have to wait 2 weeks for it to ship, but it's WAY better than those other scanners, plus you can code some simple things on your car with this.