Oil filter housing gasket leak. DIY?

[09mageec]

:hi So, Ive been leaking from my oil filter housing lately and need to change the gasket. Ive already bought the part. My question is, Has anyone else had this issue and done a DIY? Is it a tough fix? Ive done some pretty tough stuff on my previous jetta GLI, but not too much on the ZHP. Any input helps. Thanks!

[alexandre]

I did it in August and it's not too bad of a job - worst part is removing/reinstalling the alternator. There is basically zero gap where it attaches to the block, and you'll probably have to hammer it out and back in. Apart from that it's pretty straightforward.

Make sure you have the right torque specs for the housing bolts and the VANOS oil line - I didn't torque mine properly, and now I have to do everything all over again.

[BimmerWill]

Just did mine yesterday. What he said on everything ^^ torque on the housing bolts is 22 nm. There are several diys online. I started a thread not too long ago discussing it. I should have taken some pics but didn't even think about it.

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[kayger12]

Not difficult. Was the first DIY I did on an E46 and I didn't have any issues.

Read about a lot of people having a tough time with the alternator. I was fortunate, mine came off and went on with no problems.

[09mageec]

Nice! The thing is, I replaced the alternator at the end of the summer so it should come off pretty easily. Another this is I checked out a couple of those DIY threads, and pretty much everything I took out to replace the alternator needs to come out on this job. Thanks guys. Makes me feel much better! Also has anyone done a radiator replace? Ive got a small leak :(

[09mageec]

Just did mine yesterday. What he said on everything ^^ torque on the housing bolts is 22 nm. There are several diys online. I started a thread not too long ago discussing it. I should have taken some pics but didn't even think about it.

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Will, Do you by any chance know off the top, or know anywhere I could see the tools needed? My buddys with all the tools moved out to Cali recently, and I have a pretty lame collection myself lol.

[alexandre]

Just a set of ratchets and wrenches, a dead blow hammer, and a can or 2 of degreaser :)

IIRC there's no torx screws to remove but I might be wrong on this.

[cakM3]

One thing to keep in mind Cameron is to keep track of all the bolts securing the OFHG cover to the block. They each have to go back into their original spots. The DIY should also cover this. Luckily, BP came over to give me a hand when I did mine last summer :thumbsup

[alexandre]

Forgot the most important - torque wrench - in the tools.

Here's a pic from a DIY on E46F for reference for the bolts:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=434984&stc=1&d=1328120860

[echo46]

Likin' the diagram, very interesting stuff. I'Ve been lucky so far, this is one of the few DIY I haven't done yet. Good luck.

[aurelius]

DIY below doesn't mention tools specifically but seems to provide most of the bolt head sizes (therefore socket sizes) you'll need:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=657887

And this guy's cardboard template for keeping track of the variously sized filter housing bolts is a good idea. See that at about 17:00:

http://youtu.be/Jy0EKjuxlpY

[echo46]

That's a great idea.

[09mageec]

Nice, guys! Thanks for all the help. I should be fine doing this. I just need to wait for the weather to get a bit warmer first, seeing as my garage isnt heated and im not driving the car now anyways.

[Mtnman]

Ive done this. Its tedious, but just take your time. Its a few hours if things go well and you are patient. Plan for 5 hours and you will be fine. Go slow, label everything as you remove it, even the electrical clips.

[Tnhl1989]

Honestly if you post two halogen lights up around you and since you have a garage it will be fine to finish the job. Your conditions are much better than what I had to deal with. I finish everything in the cold before and after Nemo. It all took roughly 15 hours but I also did a lot of other stuff under the hood as well besides the gasket. I would recommend doing the ccv if you have not done it and also flush the power steering fluid.

[echo46]

Also, make sure you have some good New England Stout on hand and things will go smooth:)

[09mageec]

Also, make sure you have some good New England Stout on hand and things will go smooth:)

Founders Breakfast Stout <3

[echo46]

Nice. The real deal.

[SoarinZHP]

I had a mechanic do my oil filter housing gasket when he was doing the ccv. When folks talk about the bolts going back exactly where they came from, they are right. Mine started leaking about a month after the job and my mechanic had to redo the job. I don't know if it was a bolt location issue or what... He made good on it and so far so good.

[09mageec]

I'll definitely make sure those bolts get back on there in the correct manner.

[BimmerWill]

Be sure to torque the bolts on the housing correctly as well and not over tighten them since it is going into the aluminum block they can be easily stripped. The torque on them i believe is 22nm or roughly 195 inch pounds if you have a smaller torque wrench or roughly 16 ftlbs if your larger torque wrench will go that low. Mine didn't so i had to use the inch pound one.

The cardboard diagram is a great idea and is what i used when keeping track of the bolts. Also the rubber mallet is the best way to get the housing to unseated from the block when removing it especially if you have a higher mileage car. Mine has 200k on it so it didn't want to budge. One slight rap with the rubber mallet and it came loose easily.

When removing the power steering pump be aware that it will fall when you remove the third bolt from the bottom so have a hand steadying it when you remove the bracket bolt on the underside of the pump and ease it down onto the steering rack and hoses below it.

Also keep track of the serpentine belt routing I had forgotten how it went by the time I got back to running it again so had to look it up.

Another thing to bear in mind when your sdoing this is taking a good look at your ccv as well as the power steering hoses and reservoir to make sure they arent leaking. Mine are but I didn't have the cash on hand to replace them so that will be a future endeavor.

Some of the DIY's suggest taking the bottom banjo bolt of the vanos line loose in order to remove the filter housing but I took the top one loose instead which aided reassembly much better and wasnt very difficult to work back into position once the unit was ready to go back in. Get some crush washers for the banjo bolt as well or you will risk a leak from it. I'd forgotten to get some and have a slight leak. I'm not sure if its because I didn't replace the washers or if its related to the bolt not being torqued properly. The torque on that bolt is 32 newton meters according to this pdf i found posted on another website but the location of the bolt makes it difficult to get a torque wrench on it so I had to go just by feel with a crescent wrench. I believe it is 18 mm.

Here's the pdf for future reference as well. Just hit control f on the keyboard and type in what your looking for and should take you right to it.

Sorry for the long post just some tips I had on my mind.

Anyone know how to attach a file I dont see it as an option and cant find the link i used online for the pdf?

[09mageec]

Be sure to torque the bolts on the housing correctly as well and not over tighten them since it is going into the aluminum block they can be easily stripped. The torque on them i believe is 22nm or roughly 195 inch pounds if you have a smaller torque wrench or roughly 16 ftlbs if your larger torque wrench will go that low. Mine didn't so i had to use the inch pound one.

The cardboard diagram is a great idea and is what i used when keeping track of the bolts. Also the rubber mallet is the best way to get the housing to unseated from the block when removing it especially if you have a higher mileage car. Mine has 200k on it so it didn't want to budge. One slight rap with the rubber mallet and it came loose easily.

When removing the power steering pump be aware that it will fall when you remove the third bolt from the bottom so have a hand steadying it when you remove the bracket bolt on the underside of the pump and ease it down onto the steering rack and hoses below it.

Also keep track of the serpentine belt routing I had forgotten how it went by the time I got back to running it again so had to look it up.

Another thing to bear in mind when your sdoing this is taking a good look at your ccv as well as the power steering hoses and reservoir to make sure they arent leaking. Mine are but I didn't have the cash on hand to replace them so that will be a future endeavor.

Some of the DIY's suggest taking the bottom banjo bolt of the vanos line loose in order to remove the filter housing but I took the top one loose instead which aided reassembly much better and wasnt very difficult to work back into position once the unit was ready to go back in. Get some crush washers for the banjo bolt as well or you will risk a leak from it. I'd forgotten to get some and have a slight leak. I'm not sure if its because I didn't replace the washers or if its related to the bolt not being torqued properly. The torque on that bolt is 32 newton meters according to this pdf i found posted on another website but the location of the bolt makes it difficult to get a torque wrench on it so I had to go just by feel with a crescent wrench. I believe it is 18 mm.

Here's the pdf for future reference as well. Just hit control f on the keyboard and type in what your looking for and should take you right to it.

Sorry for the long post just some tips I had on my mind.

Anyone know how to attach a file I dont see it as an option and cant find the link i used online for the pdf?

Thanks, man! Always surprises me, how helpful everyone on this forum is. First and only forum I'll probably ever be a member of.

[BimmerWill]

Not a problem at all we've all been unfamiliar before, especially me but thanks to all the members, mods, and the boss there is a great environment conducive to learning from one another that you would be hard pressed to find anywhere else. Glad to know you feel the same way! Shoot me a PM if you run into any problems with the job I have tapatalk so it comes straight to my phone.

Also sourced the torque spread I found. Its located on the seventh post down of this thread. Easiest thing would be to just download and save it to your computer for future reference.

http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=785995

[edlvrt]

I'm going to tackle mine soon as well. Do I need any parts/gaskets other than the housing gasket and 2 crush washers for the VANOS line?

Thanks

[Oli77]

Nop, that's it. Perhaps consider changing the belts since they are coming off.

I took the opportunity to change the oil when I did mine, so had an oil filter ready.

[edlvrt]

Sounds good. My belts and pulleys are fairly new and I am planning to do an oil change at the same time. Any particular gasket brand to look for?

[aurelius]

The BMW dealer from which I buy OE parts sells it for $3.56.

Anyone know of an aftermarket version that addresses this particular gasket's longevity issue?

[mLuMaN83]

Easy DIY. Getting alternator lined back up and in... Oh Mai GAWD.. Just keep at it and be patient. It WILL go back in there.

[BimmerWill]

Not sure on anyone addressing the longevity issue but in reality I didn't have a leak til close to 200k I realize others have had it sooner but in my opinion it's really not a major issue and the job isn't really all that difficult that it would consume too much time or be a major inconvenience to replace maybe twice in the time you own the vehicle. It's not like with the vanos unit that requires a much more intensive and somewhat "invasive" breakdown of parts and the motor itself thus leading to the development of better seals that Beisan systems offers for the Vanos problem.

Personally I would go with OEM with this particular instance, the price isn't marked up ridiculously (although I paid 8 dollars for mine :shifty ). Also with going with an aftermarket you run the risk of the gasket not fitting exactly right depending on the mold they used for it leading to a premature failure of the gasket warranting another breakdown and replacement.

[Oli77]

I had to get the crush washer at the dealer so got the gasket there too (and the oil).

Mine busted near 76K miles (it was hard and caked on).

[BimmerWill]

I had to get the crush washer at the dealer so got the gasket there too (and the oil).

Mine busted near 76K miles (it was hard and caked on).

Mine was plasticized and difficult to get off as well. Perhaps I just got lucky with how long it lasted? :dunno

[alexandre]

Mine was plasticized and difficult to get off as well. Perhaps I just got lucky with how long it lasted? :dunno

Or PO replaced it :)

AFAIK mine had at least 70k on it as well... Don't have records before that.

[BimmerWill]

Or PO replaced it :)

AFAIK mine had at least 70k on it as well... Don't have records before that.

Very good point lol. Well mine lasted 80k then if he would have replaced at the last minute before he sold it.

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[mLuMaN83]

Mine took like 20 min just to get all the old gasket out. It kept braking and cracking as I was prying it out. It was deff time at 130k. I did mine while I was in the midst of cooling system refresh.

[BimmerWill]

Mine took like 20 min just to get all the old gasket out. It kept braking and cracking as I was prying it out. It was deff time at 130k. I did mine while I was in the midst of cooling system refresh.

Yeah mine took probably close to that amount of time trying to ease it out with a small screwdriver took quite a bit of patience. Otherwise *snap* :banghead:

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[Dave1027]

Not sure on anyone addressing the longevity issue but in reality I didn't have a leak til close to 200k
I spent quite a bit of time underneith the front end of my new to me zhp yesterday (for the first time). You could eat of the oil pan it's so clean down there. I was very happy to find the entire motor has zero oil leakage. The car has 94k on it.

Sorry about bragging but considering how many things are wrong with this car, it's about time I had something positive. I had been seriously thinking I made a mistake buying this money pit.

[BimmerWill]

I spent quite a bit of time underneith the front end of my new to me zhp yesterday (for the first time). You could eat of the oil pan it's so clean down there. I was very happy to find the entire motor has zero oil leakage. The car has 94k on it.

Sorry about bragging but considering how many things are wrong with this car, it's about time I had something positive. I had been seriously thinking I made a mistake buying this money pit.

That is one thing about these cars is that for the most part and just keeping up with general maintenance the motors and manual tranny are bulletproof.

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[llll1l1ll]

I don't want to rain on a parade, but it might have been freshly detailed before you bought it and any evidence of an oil leak has been cleaned away.

[BimmerWill]

I don't want to rain on a parade, but it might have been freshly detailed before you bought it and any evidence of an oil leak has been cleaned away.

Fair point and something to think about. Best thing to do is to check undercarriage every once in a while to see if any are developing or showing face.

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[llll1l1ll]

It's what happened to me. It was spotless under the hood when I bought it, but then I caught wind of an oil leak and it became quite noticeable.