Replacing struts/shocks all around...other parts @ 70k?

[chris]

Looking to buy some Koni FSD's all around, mileage is 70k (rears are toast). Reading various threads I see recommendations all the way from just buying dust boots, to buying every bolt and mount/bump stop/etc.

For my mileage, what makes sense? I realize it depends on condition, but I won't know that until after I order parts.

[edlvrt]

I just finished installing FSDs with my OEM springs. I decided to do everything while it was apart. I'll go back and check the receipts (I have an Excel sheet that gave prices from different retailers and saved some cash by ordering some parts from one place and others from another), but from memory:

Front strut mount x2
Front strut mount reinforcement plate x2
Front strut mount nuts x6
Front bump stops x2
Front dust boots x2-could probably reuse
Front pinch bolts x2
Font upper spring mount x2-could probably reuse
Front lower spring mount x2-could probably reuse

Rear shock mounts x2 (I went with Rouge Engineering)
Rear lower shock bolt x2 (drawing a blank, but there may be a nut that goes with this??)


Included with the FSDs:
Nuts and lock washers for attaching front struts to strut mount
Lock nuts for attaching rear shocks to shock mount
Rear dust boots and bump stops

While I was down there, I changed out my tie rods with new Lemforder units and the front sway bar links. Both of those come with mounting hardware, but you will need a way to clamp the tie rod boots to the rack and the tie rod. Zip ties work, but I ordered the crimp clamps.

I ordered upper and lower rear spring pads and rear sway bar end links, but those were not as easily accessible as I imagined, so I left the old ones on.

It took two sets of Auto Zone spring compressors to work the front springs. A tip that my mechanic told me is that the white paint on the spring should line up with the notch of the lower spring perch when the unit is assembled.

When I installed mt struts into the lower carrier/hub, I thought that they were pressed in all the way, but my ride height was off. The dealership noted this and corrected the problem. The alignment pin/nub on the front struts should be directly behind the pinch bolt. I have some pictures of how it now looks at home that I will upload later.

Let me know if you have any questions

[chris]

How many miles?

[edlvrt]

90K

[danewilson77]

No nut on the rear lower bolt.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA.

[danewilson77]

When I installed mt struts into the lower carrier/hub, I thought that they were pressed in all the way, but my ride height was off. The dealership noted this and corrected the problem. The alignment pin/nub on the front struts should be directly behind the pinch bolt. I have some pictures of how it now looks at home that I will upload later.

Mmmm.... I think its bullshit that they were going to charge you to get the front shocks seated corrected.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA.

[edlvrt]

Mmmm.... I think its bullshit that they were going to charge you to get the front shocks seated corrected.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA.

I agree. But that's their policy. Now I know and hope to help others avoid that issue

[chris]

...I'll go back and check the receipts (I have an Excel sheet that gave prices from different retailers and saved some cash by ordering some parts from one place and others from another)...
...The alignment pin/nub on the front struts should be directly behind the pinch bolt. I have some pictures of how it now looks at home that I will upload later...
Do you still have the sheet and pics? Thanks again, your replies are very helpful.

[chris]

...Included with the FSDs:
Nuts and lock washers for attaching front struts to strut mount
Lock nuts for attaching rear shocks to shock mount
Rear dust boots and bump stops...
I talked to Koni, and they tell me only the required nuts are included and the bump stops and dust boots are not included. Was the rear shock boot and the bump stops (all four?) part of some special deal when you bought them?. Again thanks.

[chris]

In case anyone else is searching for this:

Koni was wrong. The rears came with the dust boot and and bump stops. They guy at Koni I talked to just didn't know what he was talking about.

I had around 70k miles, and most all parts were reusable. I replaced the rear washers/gaskets since they stuck inside when I took them out and I had to fish them out, but they weren't totally perished. Used the new bolts of course. The front strut mount collar's have some lubed ball bearings in them which somehow got dirt in there, so it was "crunchy". The dust protection collar seemed ok.

All in all, I wouldn't recommend over spending on new parts. If you have the time, the best thing is to pull them out and inspect.

I didn't see it mentioned in any DIY's, but the strut piston itself will spin when you are tightening, as will the whole assembly with loosening. To stop this there is a hex female slot inside the threads. Essentially you need to buy something like a "go through/go thru" socket so you can turn while still having a hex wrench sticking out through the middle of the socket (open ended sockets are not going to reach in there, maybe an offset, maybe).

I bought this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/21-piece-saemetric-go-thru-socket-set-67974.html

Koni FSD's rock btw, very happy!

[LivesNearCostco]

I wish I had one of those go-through socket sets... was looking at that very set at the local HF a few days ago. What size is the top nut on the Koni FSDs? The socket set runs to 19mm but I thought stock Sachs struts had a 21mm or 22mm nut on top.

[chris]

The koni FSD's were 18mm I believe