FYI: Make sure you can remove your wheels

[Dave1027]

Started on my suspension rebuild on my new to me ZHP. Had a hell of a time just getting the wheels off. Took out all the lug bolts but the wheels acted like they were still bolted on. So I get under the front end and begin kicking while a friend stands ready to catch. I kicked easy, nothing. Kicked hard still nothing. At this point I'm like "what in the hail"! I'm getting aggravated and get back under there for one last kick. Sure enough the wheel finally lets go. Major rust holding it onto the hub was the culprit. Time to break out the wire brush and grease for all four.

Good thing I did not have a flat. No way could I have done that on the side of the freeway late at night.

[llll1l1ll]

I had the same issue when I did my rear brakes after first getting the car. I think the majority of the time to do the job was spent trying to get those blasted wheels off. It was ridiculous. I almost gave up.

[brettbimmer]

Yes, been there too. I try to use some Lubro-Moly Anti-seize compound (LM-508) between the wheels, rotors, and hubs, and it makes a HUGE difference next go-around! I have also (carefully) taken a dead-blow hammer to the inside of the tires to help pop them free, but you really have to be careful with this!

[Avetiso]

Common issue with BMW's, usually related with wet climates. My car came from New Mexico, wheels practically fell off as soon as I unbolted them. No rust in sight.

[Ryans323i]

Yes, been there too. I try to use some Lubro-Moly Anti-seize compound (LM-508) between the wheels, rotors, and hubs, and it makes a HUGE difference next go-around! I have also (carefully) taken a dead-blow hammer to the inside of the tires to help pop them free, but you really have to be careful with this!

+1

Common issue with all cars.

[johnrando]

+1. I absolutely could not get one wheel off no matter what I tried, finally brought the car to a tire shop.

[danewilson77]

+1. I absolutely could not get one wheel off no matter what I tried, finally brought the car to a tire shop.

How'd they get it off?

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[johnrando]

I really don't know. Given the fact that they could put it on a lift, etc, I just figured they did that and were able to apply more force from the inside. They said they've dealt with stuff like that before.

[derbo]

I usually grind the hub with sandpaper to remove the rust and then add some anti seize on the hub when I remove my wheels. I just make sure there is enough anti-seize each time I remove the wheel and reapply when necessary so that never happens to me again.

[3ZHP]

I always coat my hubs with this every time the wheels come off. They're still tight but do com off fairly easy with a heal kick to the outside if the tire. A light coat of grease also works. This is common because of the the different in the metals "aluminum and steel".
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[johnrando]

Yeah, I put anti-seize on them this time.

[subieworx]

Next time that happens and you are kicking it to get the wheel off make sure you leave one lug tightened a couple turns. That will catch the wheel for you when it finally, and often suddenly, breaks free.

[johnrando]

LOL, Is that an "ask me how I know?" :biggrin

EDIT: BTW, one way I got mine off was to jack the car up with the bolts loosened, and ever so gently lower the car, the off angle of the wheel touching the ground was just enough to break it loose.

[zj96sc]

Recommend you avoid grease in this application, and be very sparing on the anti-seize, hi temp if you can get your hands on it. Heat from the brakes will flow the grease right out and onto your rotors. Not desirable. Perhaps as a very thin film only - but even then I'd still recommend against it.

I was waiting for someone to recommend backing the lugs off a few turns and taking a quick spin around the block. Should loosen em right up :eeps:eeps

[itdnwiwbp]

I hate to bump an old thread but it's related so I guess it's better than starting a new one. When you guys apply anti-seize to your hubs are you just applying it to the outside of the centering ring or on the whole hub? I've read that applying to the whole hub isn't advisable and the ring seems to be the issue most of the time. Sorry if it's kind of a stupid question but I just can't seem to find an answer and I like to try to make sure I get things right. Thanks!

[danewilson77]

Yes. A light coat around the ring.

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[Avetiso]

I did the whole face. Thin as possible just to keep it from bonding. I've had no issues.

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[itdnwiwbp]

Thanks for the quick replies, guys!

[Lanister]

I did the whole face. Thin as possible just to keep it from bonding. I've had no issues.

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+1

[E_Rak]

I did the whole face. Thin as possible just to keep it from bonding. I've had no issues.

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Yup. Master tech I'm friendly with at work recommends copper based grease. Use it on the face of the hub. I also remove corrosion from the lug nuts and apply some grease there as well. Myths based around grease changing the torque rating when tightening down are exactly that.... myths.

[LivesNearCostco]

I find it very hard to believe that a dry bolt/nut and a greased one achieve the same torque ratings with the same clamping force. The difference may not be big but there is a difference. That said, I do put a dab of anti-seize on my wheel studs every few months and set my torque wrench to 84 foot-lbs instead of the standard.

[danewilson77]

I find it very hard to believe that a dry bolt/nut and a greased one achieve the same torque ratings with the same clamping force. The difference may not be big but there is a difference. That said, I do put a dab of anti-seize on my wheel studs every few months and set my torque wrench to 84 foot-lbs instead of the standard.

Yes. They do not achieve the same torque.

All torque specs and bolt yield strengths are based upon the lubricant used (if any).

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[Hermes]

I had to use a bfm one time

[TxCracker2316]

Just had this issue today dealing with a flat. I put the wheel studs back on finger tight, then backed them off one turn or so and drove ,slowly, then braked hard a couple times then did the same in reverse. It works great with little effort and doesn't damage the studs if you don't back them off too much. Just make sure you don't drive far from the jack stand because it doesn't feel all that great once they do come loose.15244

Some genius forgot his screws in the road.

[terraphantm]

Yup. Master tech I'm friendly with at work recommends copper based grease. Use it on the face of the hub. I also remove corrosion from the lug nuts and apply some grease there as well. Myths based around grease changing the torque rating when tightening down are exactly that.... myths.

It's not a myth. A grease will change the friction in the threads. Assuming it acts as a lubricant, you'd actually be over-tightening the wheels. (if it increases friction, then you'd be under tightening).

[ELCID86]

Some genius forgot his screws in the road.

Dude, that sucks! just the one tire (i hope)?

[TxCracker2316]

That was the worst tire, had 3 more not pictured on the same tire. The front left had two and rear right had two. Just bought some craigslist specials. Was wanting to hold off on tires for some new wheels but that ruined those plans! Oh well I was close to the wear bars on a couple.