Yellow/brown goop on oil cap...

[Milano]

Doing a routine oil check (yellow oil light came on) I checked the oil and it was near the bottom of the notch on the dipstick, so I was going to add a quart to get it to the top of the notch. I twisted the oil cap, which was way harder than I remember in the past, and upon pulling it off there was this yellow/brown sludge all over the cap and a little inside the top of the engine... There's none on the dipstick or anything, only the top where the cap is.

I added a quart like I had planned, then I also checked my coolant fluid to see where it was at and it was still at the normal level.

When I backed the car out to get some sunlight over it, I noticed a small puddle of reddish/orange fluid on the ground more towards the passenger side of where the engine was. My car had never had any leaks before, so I have no clue what's going on.

Also, not sure if this is related, but the other day when I got home and out of the car I noticed this weird smell. It was like the smell if you get something stuck in a carpet vacuum for too long -- like a burnt smell. I thought it was coming from the engine area and I checked all my belts, but nothing looked out of place and I couldn't really pinpoint the origin any further.


Any ideas what may be causing all of this? And how much is it going to cost me to fix :(

http://i.imgur.com/IdHLf.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/yOJ6b.jpg

[Washburn]

Not pretty...
How many miles on oil? which oil?
Sending a sample for analysis would be the easiest way to tell if something's going on: (well worth the $20 or $30 bucks I think):
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

[BimmerWill]

The red stain is more than likely power steering fluid the hoses for the units are a common source for leaks. As for the yellow oil residue mine had the same from what i remember it has to do with the car not getting properly warmed up all the way during the winter from making short trips. I could be wrong and someone has a much more detailed explanation as to the cause but that is all i can remember at the moment.
The smell sounds like you may have an oil leak somewhere. Check around the exhaust manifold and see if you have any oil residue on it that is more than likely leaking out from the head gasket and down onto the manifold.

[Washburn]

+1 ^^
Short trip driving and not burning off condensation residue from oil completely can cause goop like that - I'd take the car car out on the hwy for an hour or 2 at around 80 mph, get the oil changed ASAP, and then repeat. (In addition to sending off a sample of the current oil for analysis)

[Milano]

The oil was changed on 11/22, along with a new oil filter, and it's only been 1104 miles since then. I change it every 6-8k miles depending on usage. The car's only had BMW Full Synthetic SAE 5w-30 in it the last year and a half.

My work commute is very short.. it's maybe 10ish miles (10-15min). So the car isn't driven much during the week.

The power steering fluid reservoir was changed out a few months ago and I was checking it regularly to see if anything was leaking. We spilled a little onto the bottom plastic guard plate (?) during the install, so maybe the rain is slowly moving that excess fluid to my garage floor.

The smell was the first time I've ever smelt that before. I'll keep checking for oil leaks though. The VCG was replaced last year around this time.

I'll send a sample off for analysis and see what they say.

[kayger12]

I wouldn't be concerned over the oil cap.

That's common for short-commute cars. A nice long highway/higher rpm drive will go a long way to clearing that up. I'd be more concerned that that same crap is starting to clog up your ccv. would definitely get her out for a nice spirited or highway drive and get her nice and hot to burn that stuff off.

+1 on the power steering fluid. I would drop the splash shield and clean it up so you can easily spot any fresh leaks on there and then just keep an eye on your fluid levels.

[JKO_ZHP]

That's common for short-commute cars.

The 325Ci and this current ZHP that I have now are both auto DDs for me and they've never even looked close to that though....
At most, the cap will have gritty/grimy brown residue that can be easily wiped off with a towel but neither of mine ever looked like that.
My average commute is only about 7 miles. But I do move back and forth a lot but still, all short distances.

Should I be worried or was I just lucky?
(The 325Ci had about 125,000 miles on it and was still fine.)

[alexandre]

The so-called BMW mayo is normal on the cap. It happens on short-commute cars, in colder weather, where condensation builds up in that chamber and isn't burned because the engine doesn't have time to warm up properly. Mine looked like this this morning, and I went skiing today (100 miles each way) and it's back to normal.

You have head gasket issues when there's oil in your expansion tank, or mayo on your dipstick.

That leak definitely looks like PS fluid. Can you remove the splash shield and see if you can find a path? It's 8-10 screws.

[kayger12]

The 325Ci and this current ZHP that I have now are both auto DDs for me and they've never even looked close to that though....
At most, the cap will have gritty/grimy brown residue that can be easily wiped off with a towel but neither of mine ever looked like that.
My average commute is only about 7 miles. But I do move back and forth a lot but still, all short distances.

Should I be worried or was I just lucky?
(The 325Ci had about 125,000 miles on it and was still fine.)

I think it's just a matter of getting a look at the cap at the right time.

You need a bunch of short distance runs in colder weather.

I did the same thing with my old 325. Had looked at the cap a bunch of times and never saw much.

Then one time I pull it off and it looks like the one you posted- I had a heart attack and started googling the crap out if it.

Even after reading that it was normal I was still convinced I had a problem.

It wasn't until I pulled the valve cover off to do the vanos and saw that the top end was fine that I relaxed about it.

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[BimmerWill]

I had this concern a while back. When I did my Vcg my worries were relieved.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/24/edypy4u3.jpg
Clean as a whistle for 195k

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[Milano]

I'll keep checking everything constantly, but it's good to know that the sludge is just normal for the conditions. I'm doing the CDV delete soon, so I'll be cleaning the splash shield at the same time.

Thanks for your help everyone!

[telijah]

I drive literally only one mile to work everyday and can confirm when it gets cold around here, I get that on my cap as well. Fortunately for me, I take MANY trips over the Howard Franklin Bridge from St Pete to Tampa multiple times a week a generally flog it when it's late at night on the bridge, and the oils has been fine.

[az3579]

I wouldn't be concerned over the oil cap.

That's common for short-commute cars. A nice long highway/higher rpm drive will go a long way to clearing that up. I'd be more concerned that that same crap is starting to clog up your ccv. would definitely get her out for a nice spirited or highway drive and get her nice and hot to burn that stuff off.


There is an exception to that. I used to have this issue, and then the mayo would disappear on the weekends because that's when I do my long distance driving. However, when I dropped my car off to get the suspension work done a whole state-and-a-half away last week, there was still mayo there. The mechanic told me that it could be a signs of a failing oil separator, which is a common issue on E46's. If you still get mayo after a long distance drive (I would say over an hour), then I'd be worried.

I sure am...

[telijah]

Yeah, but doesn't a failing separator come with other symptoms like a strange sound and also something to do with having the oil cap off while the engine is running...?

[kayger12]

Yeah, I don't know that the separator fails and causes goop. I think it's more goop clogs the separator and causes the failure.

[az3579]

Yeah, I don't know that the separator fails and causes goop. I think it's more goop clogs the separator and causes the failure.

Yeah, I think you're right on that one. I was just repeating what the guy said... :dunno
Pretty much, don't let this goop build up. No bueno.

Take a longer trip to work, if necessary. I think I might start doing this knowing this information.


I'm not sure why I would still have goop there even after a 2.5hr drive. ???

[Milano]

How long of a drive is necessary you think? My commute to work takes just under 15min, but if I did some spirited driving for an additional 20min would that help reduce the goop or is a longer drive required?

[danewilson77]

How long of a drive is necessary you think? My commute to work takes just under 15min, but if I did some spirited driving for an additional 20min would that help reduce the goop or is a longer drive required?

If your car gets up to normal operating temperature (12 O Clock), you should be fine. Mine gets there in 3 miles. Maybe a lil more if it's cold. 20 minutes of spirited driving just for the hell of it certainly isn't warranted imho.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

[kayger12]

How long of a drive is necessary you think? My commute to work takes just under 15min, but if I did some spirited driving for an additional 20min would that help reduce the goop or is a longer drive required?


If your car gets up to normal operating temperature (12 O Clock), you should be fine. Mine gets there in 3 miles. Maybe a lil more if it's cold. 20 minutes of spirited driving just for the hell of it certainly isn't warranted imho.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA


Only thing to be mindful of is that the gauge is your coolant temp, not your oil temp.

Just because the coolant gauge hits 12 -doesn't necessarily mean that the oil got hot enough long enough to burn it all off.

The easiest way to answer this is to take a look at your oil cap after a week of your 15 minute work commute.

If there's no goop, you're good to go.

If there is, take her for a spirited run and evaluate the results.


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[az3579]

If your car gets up to normal operating temperature (12 O Clock), you should be fine. Mine gets there in 3 miles. Maybe a lil more if it's cold. 20 minutes of spirited driving just for the hell of it certainly isn't warranted imho.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

My coolant gets up to temperature about mid-way to work, yet I still get mayo. Always have, ever since I owned the car.
A 7-mile commute (mostly highway) is not enough to get the condensation to go away. I would say a good 15-20 mile or so drive would be sufficient.
The only way to find the right number is to keep testing. Increase the miles by maybe 5 every time and see if the mayo goes away.

[danewilson77]

Copy......I agree with 15-20 miles.

[MrMaico]

There is an exception to that. I used to have this issue, and then the mayo would disappear on the weekends because that's when I do my long distance driving. However, when I dropped my car off to get the suspension work done a whole state-and-a-half away last week, there was still mayo there. The mechanic told me that it could be a signs of a failing oil separator, which is a common issue on E46's. If you still get mayo after a long distance drive (I would say over an hour), then I'd be worried.

I sure am...

This may just be attributable to the brand of oil you're using.....

Years ago my old boss had a Chevy pickup with a small block in it and every time he'd make the 200 mile trip during the winter to visit his daughter the underside of the hood would be splattered with mayo from the breather/oil fill tube. He was running Pennzoil dino at the time and switched to another brand (Havoline maybe?) and it completely stopped spitting mayo after the change of oil brands.

Barry

[ryankokesh]

I was concerned about mine because the mayo didn't totally go away after an 1.5h drive. Looked like this at its worst; I have about a two-mile commute :-/

http://i.imgur.com/Yxlb9.jpg

Took the car down to Nashville this weekend though and it's clean as a whistle now!


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[kayger12]

I was concerned about mine because the mayo didn't totally go away after an 1.5h drive. Looked like this at its worst; I have about a two-mile commute :-/

http://i.imgur.com/Yxlb9.jpg

Took the car down to Nashville this weekend though and it's clean as a whistle now!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Makes sense. If you've got a lot build up it could definitely take a while to burn it all off.

[az3579]

This may just be attributable to the brand of oil you're using.....

Years ago my old boss had a Chevy pickup with a small block in it and every time he'd make the 200 mile trip during the winter to visit his daughter the underside of the hood would be splattered with mayo from the breather/oil fill tube. He was running Pennzoil dino at the time and switched to another brand (Havoline maybe?) and it completely stopped spitting mayo after the change of oil brands.

Barry


I don't think so. I use the same oil as before when my mayo would disappear after a long drive. Now it doesn't seem to disappear but I'm still using the same oil.

I use Mobil1 0W-40.

[danewilson77]

Ryan.......That just doesn't look right. I don't care how much a car is driven. I would look into CCV valve issue.

Can't moisture like that "Hydro-lock" an engine?

[Newjack]

Ryan.......That just doesn't look right. I don't care how much a car is driven. I would look into CCV valve issue.

Can't moisture like that "Hydro-lock" an engine?

I thought I read somewhere that the yellow goop is a result of very short trips before the car can completely warm itself up. It takes the car to get warm before the CCV can fully start doing its job and recycle the moisture. I would guess that changing out the CCV system would resolve the issue, and to avoid taking very short trips in your car from a cold start.

As far as hydro locking the engine? I'm not sure if the goop would do that. I guess if it gets bad enough it would cause some problems for sure.

[MrMaico]

I don't think so. I use the same oil as before when my mayo would disappear after a long drive. Now it doesn't seem to disappear but I'm still using the same oil.

I use Mobil1 0W-40.

Well, so much for that theory.:biggrin I thought I had seen you mention before something about using different brands of oil depending on whatever your mechanic was using. But if it's doing it with the same brand now it has to be something else causing it.

[az3579]

But if it's doing it with the same brand now it has to be something else causing it.

But whaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa?????

[danewilson77]

CCV

[MrMaico]

But whaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa?????

Good question, wish I had a good answer for you. Has your CCV ever been done? That would seem like a good place to start at least. If it were my car I still would probably try a different brand of oil even though chances are slim that that's the cause of it.

I went out and checked my Blazer DD that is overdue for an oil change and only ever gets a short 7 mile drive twice a day and the inside of the oil fill cap was nice and clean with just a light oil film on it. I just use Quaker State dino oil in it with a little over 100,000 miles.

Barry

[wsmeyer]

I wonder if just the oil cap needs to be replaced. If it's not air tight when the warm engine is turned off, cold air will be sucked in and condensation will accumulate there and cause the emulsion.

William.

[kayger12]

I wonder if just the oil cap needs to be replaced. If it's not air tight when the warm engine is turned off, cold air will be sucked in and condensation will accumulate there and cause the emulsion.

William.

Interesting thought.

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[danewilson77]

But, you would have stumble and possible lean condition....and most likely would pull a code.

[az3579]

But, you would have stumble and possible lean condition....and most likely would pull a code.

That's what I'm thinking. Any unmetered air entering is supposed to cause an issue...

[wsmeyer]

But, you would have stumble and possible lean condition....and most likely would pull a code.

I'm confused which post you're referring to

[az3579]

I'm confused which post you're referring to

He's referring to your thought that replacing the oil filler cap might help. It leaking air in would cause the conditions Dane mentions.

[wsmeyer]

He's referring to your thought that replacing the oil filler cap might help. It leaking air in would cause the conditions Dane mentions.

The crankcase is completely separate from the intake. The crankcase isn't sealed because when the engine is running the crankcase is pressurized by combustion gasses leaking past the piston rings. In the old days they were just vented through a crank case filter on the valve cover. Nowadays, for smog reasons they are vented through the CCV back into the intake.

William.

[danewilson77]

The crankcase is completely separate from the intake. The crankcase isn't sealed because when the engine is running the crankcase is pressurized by combustion gasses leaking past the piston rings. In the old days they were just vented through a crank case filter on the valve cover. Nowadays, for smog reasons they are vented through the CCV back into the intake.

William.

I'm pretty sure if you take your oil cap off, when your car is idling, it will stumble and may stall.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

[az3579]

I'm pretty sure if you take your oil cap off, when your car is idling, it will stumble and may stall.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

If I remember to, I shall test this theory tomorrow.

[wsmeyer]

I'm pretty sure if you take your oil cap off, when your car is idling, it will stumble and may stall.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

I'm pretty sure your car would be much happier if it didn't have to recirculate those gasses back through the intake :)

There's a reason you'll never see any sort of crankcase recirculation system on a race car, unless of course it's required by the regs.

William.

[ryankokesh]

Ryan.......That just doesn't look right. I don't care how much a car is driven. I would look into CCV valve issue.

Can't moisture like that "Hydro-lock" an engine?

Yeah, I don't really understand how it can be totally normal, even though people imply that it is with a lot of short trips. I'm going to monitor how long it takes to come back, and see if I can't hold off on the ccv replacement until spring.


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[ryankokesh]

If I recall correctly from back when I did the vanos, there's an oil cap gasket that I think sits inside the crankcase cove. Maybe that's shot and letting small amounts of cold air in?


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[LivesNearCostco]

Did it once to do the plastic bag test recommended by Beisan to test for bad CCV. I don't remember that happening. And I saw a ZHP owner drive AutoX in San Diego once without his oil cap. He didn't notice until the cap fell onto the exhaust manifold, melted, and began smoking...

I'm pretty sure if you take your oil cap off, when your car is idling, it will stumble and may stall.
Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

[danewilson77]

Ok. I thought if ccv was working properly it would suck bag in about 1/2" but no more?

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

[ryankokesh]

I remember once I started the car without the cap after changing the oil, but I don't remember it stalling. It idled weirdly, but I really don't think it stalled. (This was quite a few years ago, so I may not be remembering it correctly)


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[bimmeryota]

Do you guys that have the short commute and seen this problem adjust your oil change intervals at all and do you think it helps? I change mine often at no more than 5k but I now have a longer drive to work (35-40min vs 10-15 before) and I've never seen this on mine.

[az3579]

Do you guys that have the short commute and seen this problem adjust your oil change intervals at all and do you think it helps? I change mine often at no more than 5k but I now have a longer drive to work (35-40min vs 10-15 before) and I've never seen this on mine.

You don't see it because of your longer commute. This is guaranteed to happen if you drive short distances all the time. I don't know if changing the oil type will help, but changing it more often is unlikely to do anything. This is caused by condensation, not by the oil, which is why I think making any changes to your oil isn't going to yield a different result. I haven't changed the oil type or interval between when I first noticed it and now. The difference is that when I first noticed it, long drives would allow it to evaporate and the mustard/mayo would disappear. Now, it doesn't disappear, so I think something else is wrong besides this.

[ryankokesh]

I'm wondering if once it starts, it builds up in the CCV not allowing it to continue evaporate as well as it used to? Just a theory...

[ryankokesh]

So I'm all set to replace my ccv system... parts are being delivered today, I've watched the bav auto video more times than I can count, and my notes are ready to go.

I was looking through the maintenance today though, and noticed the whole system (sans the new dipstick guide tube) was replaced ~35 to 40k miles ago. Is it possible it's failed this soon, or am I wasting my time going through this exercise again?

[LivesNearCostco]

Don't know how often CCV should be replaced. Not sure if mine is original at 168,000 miles. I hope not, but it might be. The PO didn't replace it but he bought it at 90,000 miles so someone before him might have. I just watched the BavAuto video last week and keep thinking to buy the kit, but mine doesn't seem to have failed yet.

[ryankokesh]

I think people say to replace them at ~100k... Maybe mine got clogged sooner than that due to my excessively short commute? :dunno

[aurelius]

There are those who argue replacement of the drain hose between the CCV and the dipstick tube can save you from full CCV system rehab.


Click HERE (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=773551) for an E46f thread that gets straight to the point re the lower oil drain hose connecting the CCV to the dipstick tube. Bottom line is it fails regularly, causes a rough idle (especially in cold weather), may save you from full CCV rehab, and is cheap/easy. Note: in addition to the part number mentioned in the DIY, there's another, insulated version of that hose. Same price as non-insulated.

Amazing how many respondents to that thread have found this hose to have disintegrated.

[ryankokesh]

Hmm, interesting.

I guess what I'm wondering is if the ccv can be a-ok but I could still be getting this mayo gunk. Just doesn't seem like it could possibly be normal to me, but it also seems pretty early in its life for it to be failing. I guess I'll probably go ahead and replace the stuff anyway.

[alexandre]

Mayo on the cap is normal... Doesn't necessarily indicate CCV failure. 40k miles seems to be excessively early for failure. Take it for an hour at 65mph in 5th on the highway and see if the cap clears out.

[danewilson77]

Hmm, interesting.

I guess what I'm wondering is if the ccv can be a-ok but I could still be getting this mayo gunk. Just doesn't seem like it could possibly be normal to me, but it also seems pretty early in its life for it to be failing. I guess I'll probably go ahead and replace the stuff anyway.

Mayo is produced by short drives not ccvv failure.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA.

[LivesNearCostco]

Does freezing weather cause the CCV to degrade faster or cause a single catastrophic CCV failure when condensate freezes in the wrong place?

[echo46]

I don't think that the CCV system of hoses etc would fail that fast. However, are you doing a lot of short drives in colder weather i.e. less that ten minutes. Car might not be completely warming up and the hoses might be getting gunked up. By the way, have we ruled slight head gasket leak and coolant mixing with oil?

[ryankokesh]

So yeah, the car definitely doesn't warm up all the way during my average commute, and the gunk does clear up if I take it for a long enough drive. (But then it comes back because of my commute. On average I just barely get my coolant warm, and it gets pretty darn cold here.)
I didn't think it was head gasket, because I didn't notice a smell to the exhaust, and I don't appear to be losing coolant. Also, last time I checked the oil wasn't creamy.
What would you guys do? I guess I was under the impression that a new ccv should result in no gunk even with short trips. Maybe that isn't correct though... :dunno
I don't necessarily care that there's goop in there, I'm just concerned about it freezing and screwing something up.


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[kayger12]

I think you are still going to get gunk regardless of what you do with the ccv if your commute is that short.



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[danewilson77]

I think you are still going to get gunk regardless of what you do with the ccv if your commute is that short.



Sent from my kick-A Galaxy S3

+1

Make the commute a tad bit longer.

[ryankokesh]

Doh. Anyone want an oem cold climate ccv kit...? :shifty

I'll try going to the far train station maybe. I've been letting it warm up for 15mins or so before i leave, and the gunk seems to be receding slightly (just checked before i left)

One more question... Should I be concerned about freezing gunk?


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[aurelius]

I'm pretty sure your car would be much happier if it didn't have to recirculate those gasses back through the intake :)
There's a reason you'll never see any sort of crankcase recirculation system on a race car, unless of course it's required by the regs.

Which reminds me...someone please do this and report back:

See HERE (http://vsetrack.com/track_reports/2010/bmw_motorsport_oil_separator/bmw_motorsport_oil_separator.htm) for a detailed solution involving an oil separator from the BMW S62 motor, as also race-proven under the E46 hood in Euro and World Touring Car Championships.

[LivesNearCostco]

From what I heard this is correct... the cold weather CCV just prevents stuff from freezing inside the CCV or related hoses. Maybe mayo is more susceptible to freezing because it has water in it.

Where I live we have been getting frequent morning frost and my 37F alarm keeps dinging, but we don't get actual deep freezes. I plan to put in the cold weather CCV kit eventually, but first the car needs an oil change and maybe tie rods.

I think you are still going to get gunk regardless of what you do with the ccv if your commute is that short.
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[ryankokesh]

Hmm. Maybe I'll just keep the kit and do it this summer. I guess it wouldn't hurt.

That BMW Motorsport solution looks awesome... seems like a really straight-forward retrofit. I wonder why it isn't stock?

[derbo]

I remember there are two versions of the ccv. There is a warm weather version and a cold weather version. I think the major differences are insulated lines on the weather ones. I don't remember off the top of my head. I'll have to dig it up.


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[wsmeyer]

Which reminds me...someone please do this and report back:

See HERE (http://vsetrack.com/track_reports/2010/bmw_motorsport_oil_separator/bmw_motorsport_oil_separator.htm) for a detailed solution involving an oil separator from the BMW S62 motor, as also race-proven under the E46 hood in Euro and World Touring Car Championships.

That thing is bad ass!

You can tell by the shape of it though that it's a cyclone filter: http://tinyurl.com/bgbz2yg

They have a very high efficiency once the velocity of the air is high enough but below that point they don't do anything. For a high HP race car that is operating mostly at high RPM this might be the perfect setup but on a street car that operates predominantly at lower RPM's, not so much.

[edlvrt]

I don't know anything other than their website shows it as in development, but the folks at German Auto Solutions (who make the DISA rebuild kit) have CCV setup in the works......

http://germanautosolutions.com/bmw_solutions/ccv_products/m54_gas_ccv/product_m54_ccv.php

[ryankokesh]

I remember there are two versions of the ccv. There is a warm weather version and a cold weather version. I think the major differences are insulated lines on the weather ones. I don't remember off the top of my head. I'll have to dig it up.


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Yeah, the cold weather version is wrapped in insulation and is supposed to prevent the condensation that results in mayo-ing. People are pretty split on whether or not it actually does anything. I think most people agree, though, that the new cold-weather version of the dipstick tube definitely is an improvement. BMW doesn't even make the old version any longer.

[danewilson77]

Yeah, the cold weather version is wrapped in insulation and is supposed to prevent the condensation that results in mayo-ing. People are pretty split on whether or not it actually does anything. I think most people agree, though, that the new cold-weather version of the dipstick tube definitely is an improvement. BMW doesn't even make the old version any longer.

I thought we decided ccvv doesn't cause the mayo-ing?

Williamsburg, VA > Droid DNA > Tapatalk

[ryankokesh]

I thiiiiink the cold weather one is supposed to help prevent it, whereas a new normal one may not. I could definitely be wrong though.


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[kayger12]

I thiiiiink the cold weather one is supposed to help prevent it, whereas a new normal one may not. I could definitely be wrong though.


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Iirc, the cold weather one is supposed to help prevent the goop from freezing.

Again, I don't think anything is going to stop it from happening with repeated short commutes where the motor doesn't get to operating temp.

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[echo46]

When I replaced all my CCV hoses etc, the guys at the BMW dealership swore up and down that the winter kit would prevent gunk build up. They went on and on about getting the new dip stick also. I did not get the winter version and have had no issues but I rarely go short distances. If I did a lot of short winter driving I would install the winter version.

[ryankokesh]

So I still can't decide if I should install this new ccv system I have sitting here. I can't for the life of me figure out with 100% certainty that a new ccv won't stop this mayo junk from forming and freezing my block, or if my 40k mile old system is bad. I'm definitely getting less mayo now that I'm intentionally driving a little further to my commuter rail station, but it's still there. I'm also getting super paranoid that I have a head gasket leak. The coolant looks perfectly clear though, and I'm not getting any other symptoms. So hopefully I'm just being a hypochondriac. :dunno

#isitsummeryet?

[kayger12]

If you're coolant level is staying the same, you don't have a head gasket leak.

I really think your ccv is fine.

Sent from my kick-A Galaxy S3

[aurelius]

http://www.germanautosolutions.com/bmw_solutions/ccv_products/m54_gas_ccv/product_m54_ccv.php

[kayger12]

http://www.germanautosolutions.com/bmw_solutions/ccv_products/m54_gas_ccv/product_m54_ccv.php

Yep, I'd return the ccv you bought and wait for gas to release this one.

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[ryankokesh]

If you're coolant level is staying the same, you don't have a head gasket leak.

I really think your ccv is fine.

Sent from my kick-A Galaxy S3

Coolant was maybe a half cup low, but that was the first time I'd checked it in like 3 months... Not enough to make the light go on, but around the min. I'm keeping an eye on it now. I also may have been dumb enough to not check it much after replacing the expansion tank. So I'm not even positive there was enough to begin with. Either way I'll watch it daily now and see if there's any consumption.


Sent from my iPad using the interwebz.

[kayger12]

Good plan. Keep us in the loop.

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[Snowboardinwny]

I had this issue on my e36 328i. My commute to and from work is about 15 minutes. When I was looking for my ZHP my intent was to dd it all year round. Talked to a guy selling his daily driven ZHP with a short commute. He brought up the goop issue and said on short drives after he parked his car he would pull the oil cap off to let the gasses/condensation vent out.

Not sure if it was mentioned in this thread but it may be an alternative to replacing the ccv with the cold weather option. Yeah it can be a pain in the butt, but it won't cost you anything lol. I have done it a few times, usually if I go out for lunch seeing as my car won't even reach operating temperatures. Most other times I forget tho.

[danewilson77]

I had this issue on my e36 328i. My commute to and from work is about 15 minutes. When I was looking for my ZHP my intent was to dd it all year round. Talked to a guy selling his daily driven ZHP with a short commute. He brought up the goop issue and said on short drives after he parked his car he would pull the oil cap off to let the gasses/condensation vent out.

Not sure if it was mentioned in this thread but it may be an alternative to replacing the ccv with the cold weather option. Yeah it can be a pain in the butt, but it won't cost you anything lol. I have done it a few times, usually if I go out for lunch seeing as my car won't even reach operating temperatures. Most other times I forget tho.

Good seeing you around.

[Snowboardinwny]

Thanks, I'm guilty of not coming on here enough if at all. Now that I finally bought the Tapatalk app for my phone I will be on a ton more.

[danewilson77]

Thanks, I'm guilty of not coming on here enough if at all. Now that I finally bought the Tapatalk app for my phone I will be on a ton more.

Sweet. Looking forward to the contributions.

[ryankokesh]

Huh, that's a pretty good idea...I'm sure I'd forget too, though!

It was around 40* here this weekend, and I drove the car a little more than usual. Goop is almost completely gone, and the car's running noticeably better. So I'm getting less concerned about things.


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[Dave1027]

http://www.germanautosolutions.com/bmw_solutions/ccv_products/m54_gas_ccv/product_m54_ccv.php

The sad part is every other CCV system I have ever seen is a simple vacuum hose and a PCV valve that is easily replaced in two minutes and costs about $5. Why did this engine have to be so complicated?

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c3/Pcv_valve_1.jpg

[LivesNearCostco]

My old car has that simple hose and PCV valve, but all crankcase vapors go back into the intake to be burned--no separator. Draining separated oil to the pan would require a 2nd hose, or a total of 3 connections (one crankcase, one intake, one drain). Does our CCV have 3 or 4 connections? If 4, what does the 4th do?

[Dave1027]

Yep, that's what most engines do, burn the blow by. Not sure recycling is a) worth the trouble and b) won't that contaminate the oil with fuel? I've seen engines fitted with a catch can. Isn't that what GAS is working on?