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prowlerflyer
12-10-2012, 07:30 AM
So I've got the car up on a lift on Friday doing an oil change and as usual, I do a general integrity inspection from the underside. Well, the ZHP camber has done its job and all 4 tires are done on the inside edge. Oh well, they did about 20k miles, too bad though, otherwise they have plenty of tread.

Luckily I have the stock 135s in the garage with a worn set tires, but still serviceable. So I go about taking the 19" VMR's off, and when I get to the LR, I proceed to sheer off two 3" extensions (attached to a standard breaker bar) trying to free two bolts. I then break out the impact gun and still nothing... One of the bolts is of course the anti-theft one with the small splined insert, and I am quite nervous hitting that with the air gun. I soaked it as best as I could with penetrant overnight, and will hit it again when I get home today.

Hopefully I can get it off today, if not the tire shop is going to have to deal with it. I've got a set of Yoko's S-Drives in the mail, and should have them by Wed. I almost went with the Goodyear Eagle Asymmetric 2 (decent price with rebate), but the Yoko's had great reviews and cost about the same as Khumos/Hankooks.

Anyone running a 235/30 with 19" ET35 on the front? It's what tire size Tire Rack recommends with 19", but they felt the 35mm offset would need a fender roll. I have zero clearance issues with my current 225/30 19 ET35 front, 255/35 19 ET50 w/5mm spacer rear.

Steve

Vas
12-10-2012, 07:57 AM
Another reason to ditch the bolts and go with a stud conversion.

BimmerWill
12-10-2012, 08:15 AM
What torque specs had been used to mount the wheels in the first place? I know they can get a little sticky sometimes and hard to break loose if they've been on their a while but you shouldn't have that much trouble removing the bolts.

If you take it somewhere make sure they torque them right not just hit all five with the air hammer real tight then go around with a torque wrench clicking away to make it look like they torqued them to spec. That's fine if they want to save time by getting the majority of the threads taken care of with the air wrench but when it becomes flush with the wheel they should stop and torque it properly. I've noticed quite a few tire shops have gotten in the habit of over torquing wheel studs/bolts and that can lead to warped wheels.

\rant

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JupiterBMW
12-10-2012, 11:52 AM
Agreed, make sure they just bring the bolts in with the gun and actually torque them with the correct torque wrench. Also, I put a tad bit of never seize on my lug bolts too, helps them from galling or getting chewed up over time.

And just FYI, the torque spec for the lug bolts is 100 N-m, which is about 78 foot pounds if memory serves me.

Good luck. Not sure what penetrant you're using, but go with PB Blaster or if you can find it, Kroil. That shit is amazing, way better than PB Blaster, just damn near impossible to find.


Sent from my hybrid iPhone 4/4S... :shifty

danewilson77
12-10-2012, 03:11 PM
Agreed, make sure they just bring the bolts in with the gun and actually torque them with the correct torque wrench. Also, I put a tad bit of never seize on my lug bolts too, helps them from galling or getting chewed up over time.

And just FYI, the torque spec for the lug bolts is 100 N-m, which is about 78 foot pounds if memory serves me.

Good luck. Not sure what penetrant you're using, but go with PB Blaster or if you can find it, Kroil. That shit is amazing, way better than PB Blaster, just damn near impossible to find.


Sent from my hybrid iPhone 4/4S... :shifty

Off by a tad....and I don't think anti-seize is used here. Torque spec is dependant on lubricant used, and hence results in a proper torque. If you use a lubricant/antiseize, then torque to 89 ft-lb, you're actually over torquing the fastener. In this case I don't think it would be a huge deal....but just thought I would throw it out there.

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/01-08-2011-115718AM-XL.jpg

JupiterBMW
12-10-2012, 03:16 PM
Hmm, I had 2 sources that both said 100 N-m. Either way...

And as for anti seize, the manual may not say to use it, but I've done it on every car I've owned in the past, and I've never had a problem... Might've saved OP from this post in the first place!

Oh, and I will say this. Yokohama S-Drives are the only tire I've been using in the past 8 years or so and I freaking love them. You will too.