Oil pressure switch

[Tampa330i]

I've cleared my error codes and one that keeps coming back is 283F Oil pressure switch: signal un feasible. The error is at 3:40 in my INPA video. Based on the wording, it seems like this switch is dead. The car stalled a few times when I first got it, and hadn't done it for a while until today, it stalled again. I'm wondering it this could be the cause? My understanding of this piece is that it's what throws the dash light on when there's a problem with the oil pressure (too high?). Can anyone tie these two events together? I'm just curious because I don't get any other codes after clearing them.

[kayger12]

Sounds like a bad sensor. I'd replace it sooner than later- don't want to be in a situation where you have low oil pressure and don't get a light.

As for the stalling, could be a lot of things, but I don't think it's related to the pressure sensor.

Have you done your vanos yet? Stalling can be a vanos symptom- especially if you don't throw any codes.

Also wouldn't hurt to clean/check your ICV and DISA if it hasn't been done.

[danewilson77]

The stalling issue is most certainly, not caused by the oil pressure sensor. That oil pressure sensor will indicate low oil pressure, and will be visible as a red light. The yellow light is for oil level.

The car doent have any other codes in?

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[Tampa330i]

No other codes. It had some stored in there for o2 sensors, but I've cleared it and they haven't come back. This stall always happens while rolling without applying gas. I was pulling out of a parking spot, got maybe 15 feet from it, go to turn out of the row and it stalled right there - all 4 times have been similar situations. I counted 3 times over a month ago and now this one yesterday. I'll do another scan today and see if anything else has popped up, but I think the oil pressure switch is it. No vanos has been done yet as far as I know, and I've never heard any rattle from it. It's been driving perfectly since I got it, other than the couple stalls.

[danewilson77]

...but I think the oil pressure switch is it. No vanos has been done yet as far as I know, and I've never heard any rattle from it. It's been driving perfectly since I got it, other than the couple stalls.

I am not trying to argue...but I do not see how the Oil pressure switch will make your car stall. It does not have an auto shutoff feature or anything like that and is only an indication.

[Tampa330i]

I think the oil pressure switch is the only error, not the cause. I didn't even know what an oil pressure switch was until yesterday.

[danewilson77]

OK.....copy. The O2 sensors are suspect in your case. They will clear by themselves...or with the tool....and stay cleared for some time (50-150 miles), then come back in.

[kayger12]

Same type of problem I was having before I rebuilt the vanos in the 325. Never happened again after the rebuild. I also never had a rattle.

[danewilson77]

Good data....did you have the 2500 rpm issue?

From the website...I think Kayger could be on to something.

"Overall loss of torque and power, particularly in the lower RPM range, < 3k. Bogging then surging at 3k RPM. Uneven power distribution and RPM transition. Engine hesitations in the lower RPM range, < 3k. Louder idle and intermittent idle RPM hiccups. Difficult takeoffs. Loss of power and bogging when AC on. Increased fuel consumption. Vanos fault codes.
Double vanos cars with the M52TU engine (98/99-00) experience cold weather cold start idle jolts and possible stall."

Do us a favor. At idle.....film a video of what your idle does when you hit the snowflake button, then post it up. Lets have a look.

[kayger12]

I'm liking the DW approach.

With the a/c on, if I gave mine just the slightest hint of pressure on the gas pedal, she would stumble hard and just about stall every time.

I'd have to goose the gas to keep her running.

[Tampa330i]

I will make a video asap. Does it have to be a cold start or just idle as normal? I haven't even turned my ac on yet, just heat occasionally.

[kayger12]

Don't think it matters. Key is to see if it gets worse with a/c.

My bogging was bad without a/c, but not bad enough to stall. That only seemed to happen with a/c.

Also, turn your temp way down so the compressor actually kicks on.

I don't know if we every got a straight answer about whether the green snowflake light means the compressor is on, or just available if the auto climate system needs it...

[danewilson77]

Yes.....snowflake button is on....compressor kicks on....

[Tampa330i]

Do us a favor. At idle.....film a video of what your idle does when you hit the snowflake button, then post it up. Lets have a look.

Car starts at 0:02, by 0:16 AC is on full blast, at 0:37 I turn the AC off:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2RX07vv2d98

[danewilson77]

Did you have your foot on the gas?

[Tampa330i]

Nope, didn't touch the gas.

[danewilson77]

Sounded like rpms went up to 800/900....then came back down to 600/700.

I didn't see a stumble. That evolution looked normal to me.

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[kayger12]

Agreed. I'd do it again, and then with a/c on give it just a little touch of gas. See if you can get that stumble. Not sure if it will work in neutral. Might have to be under load to really make it happen...

[Tampa330i]

Any objections to trying fuel injector cleaner? Never used it before, but someone suggested I try it.

[danewilson77]

Any objections to trying fuel injector cleaner? Never used it before, but someone suggested I try it.

Naa...I dont object to it...as a preventative measure....but I honestly dont think its goign to fix your prob. Still would like to see the stumble.

[kayger12]

Not sure on the injector cleaner. Never used it but don't think you could hurt anything. DW?

Only thing is, if you had clogged injectors that were so bad that the car was stalling, I would think it would definitely throw a code...

[danewilson77]

Not sure on the injector cleaner. Never used it but don't think you could hurt anything. DW?

Only thing is, if you had clogged injectors that were so bad that the car was stalling, I would think it would definitely throw a code...

POST #20...lol

[kayger12]

POST #20...lol

lol-- should be used to that by now...

[Tampa330i]

I check it again today, no new codes. Good old oil pressure switch is still there of course.

[danewilson77]

Switch is still there?

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[Tampa330i]

Yes, and the code for it. It comes back after clearing.

[danewilson77]

I went quickly through the thread again and didn't see the code. Apologize if I missed it...but can you post again?

[Tampa330i]

It's in the INPA video I made, I didn't copy out the error in here. I'll get a text version of it next time I plug in.

[Tampa330i]

Here's the exact error:

Error: (1)1 Nr: 10303___283F Oil pressure switch: signal un feasible
type of error:__________(4) No signal or value
readiness flag:_________(16) Test conditions fulfilled
error-statur:___________(35) current fault existing, OBD debounced
MIL-Status:____________(48) fault caused no signal at warning lamp
P-code:_______________P0520 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Circuit

followed by the mileage, engine speed, engine cut off time, engine status & voltage at the time of each fault.

[danewilson77]

Interesting. That may mean your sensor is just dead? Easy swap out at next oil change?

[Tampa330i]

Yup, pretty sure that means the sensor itself is dead. I don't know about easy, I believe the intake box & power steering reservoir have to be unbolted to get to it. If the part itself is cheap, I may just have it done anyway.

[danewilson77]

Idk bro...it looks like it could be pretty easy going into the side of the housing. You may find it easier than you think...

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/239-1.png

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[Tampa330i]

I think I'll give it a go. Autozone price: $12.99. Looks like you just unbolt it and bolt back in, simple enough. I haven't even looked at it under the hood, I'll go check it out when it's light out. Does this have to be torqued? I'm looking at autozone right now, might as well pick a torque wrench up. Is 0-150 ft/lbs good enough for most thing I'd be using it for like spark plugs and whatnot?

[kayger12]

I'll grab the Bentley and see if there's a torque spec for it.

0-150 is good for just about anything you'll need to do.

Only thing higher than 150 iirc are the axle nuts if you ever do a wheel hub- think they're around 200.

Not worth buying a 200+ just for that. You can just rent one if you ever need it.

[Tampa330i]

Cool, thanks!

[danewilson77]

Torque smorque........just put it in there. I would prolly not exceed 15ft-lbs.

15ft-lbs = one drunk left hand.

[Tampa330i]

lol, drunk left hand. I got a cheap wrench - $12. I'm sure I'll need it again at some point anyway.

[kayger12]

Torque for the switch is 20 ft-lbs.

Torque wrench, ftw!

[danewilson77]

15 ft-lbs.....20 ft-lbs......whatever. Good on ya for using a torque wrench.

[kayger12]

Lol, some of us are missing that organic torque wrench that you talented mechanics haz.

My good friend is a mechanic and makes fun of me every time I use a torque wrench. I get quotes like, "Hey- you know you're not working on the space shuttle, right?"

I just don't trust myself. Always afraid I'm gonna snap something off...

[MrMaico]

Yes.....snowflake button is on....compressor kicks on....

......when needed. Depending on the air temp. If it's cool out it will only kick in now and then to dehumidify the air. And on most vehicles that's only when you have the defrosters on, not sure about BMW though.

[MrMaico]

This is similar but different to a code I got once last fall......petrol tank level implausible......seemed odd because the fuel guage was working fine and never did light a cel. I just noticed it when checking codes just for the hell of it. I ran a bottle of Techron through and never saw it again.

Barry

[MasterC17]

Yup, pretty sure that means the sensor itself is dead. I don't know about easy, I believe the intake box & power steering reservoir have to be unbolted to get to it. If the part itself is cheap, I may just have it done anyway.

I spent a lot of time messing around with this exact sensor when doing my oil gauges. It really isn't hard to get to. Intake comes off, power steering just needs to be unbolted (two 13mm bolts). Sensor itself is 24mm (not an easy wrench to find though). Get it started with the wrench then twist it right out; new one should be torqued to 20lbs right back in no crush washer/extra washers needed. You'd need a deep socket if you were going to go that route however. Easier to just guess with a wrench then try to fit a ratchet down there. And a Diagram to give you a sense of difficulty/help you.

266

[Tampa330i]

I'll be changing this shortly, possibly today. I need to pick up a decent set of metric sockets & some tape to wrap the threads. Thanks for the bolt sizes, I had no idea it was so large. I think everything I've touched so far has been either 8 or 10mm.