Battery for BMW E46

[az3579]

I recently had my battery tested and determined that is getting pretty weak. The car starts fine, but the cold crank number was 400-something while the spec was 600-something. That, and my shark injector install failed because the battery failed to maintain proper voltage. It's time to change.


What is the ideal battery to use? I'm seeing people using the Autozone 49DL. Has anyone here replaced their factory original and with what? Experiences?

[danewilson77]

Typical BMW batteries are good for 5 to 7 years...just as a data point.

This is what I had in TiAg 325i....and can't believe I don't remember what I put in the zhp....but I think its the same.

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/DSC01986.jpg

I never had heard of a bad report on the 49DL however.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk

[kayger12]

Did the 49DL for the 325. No issues for the 18 months it was in until I sold it.

I certainly wouldn't hesitate to go that route again.

[az3579]

Sounds good, I'll get the 49DL. How much was it?

[danewilson77]

The batt in my car now was $140.00 at Autozone. I'm going to post a pic of it later. I want to say the 49DL was like $70.00?

[az3579]

I bought the 49DL today. It fit fine, but it was a pain in the ass trying to connect the really fat positive cable cluster, the one with the explosive charge on it. I can't tell you how scared I was to touch that thing, but eventually ended up slamming the thing into place because of it being such a tight fit.

It works beautifully though, and has a much higher cold crank rating than the OEM. It cost me about $100 or so.

[kayger12]

I bought the 49DL today. It fit fine, but it was a pain in the ass trying to connect the really fat positive cable cluster, the one with the explosive charge on it. I can't tell you how scared I was to touch that thing, but eventually ended up slamming the thing into place because of it being such a tight fit.

It works beautifully though, and has a much higher cold crank rating than the OEM. It cost me about $100 or so.

Good deal, man. Any issue getting the vent hose squared away with the limited space?

[az3579]

Good deal, man. Any issue getting the vent hose squared away with the limited space?

No. The vent hose would not have fit as-was, but the battery came with a vent hose for it, and I just attached that hose to the one that came from the car. It wasn't a problem as there was enough slack, and there was enough room to make sure that it wasn't pinching. The battery clamp fit perfectly as well and holds the battery down tight.

[kayger12]

No. The vent hose would not have fit as-was, but the battery came with a vent hose for it, and I just attached that hose to the one that came from the car. It wasn't a problem as there was enough slack, and there was enough room to make sure that it wasn't pinching. The battery clamp fit perfectly as well and holds the battery down tight.

Cool. Same deal I had when I switched it out in the 325.

[Johnmadd]

I like to upgrade to a red top or better yet a yellow top optima battery whenever I get a dead battery, and it doesn't need the vent hose becauase it is totally sealed. You can mount it upside down if desired. These are the best out, so why not. I believe they cost about $140 - $160.

[danewilson77]

Only for you guys would I go out to the garage, in my skimmies, and take a pic of my battery. This is direct OE replacement.

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/IMG_20110120_222450.jpg

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/IMG_20110120_222501.jpg

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk

[Marcus-SanDiego]

What's that on the right side? Looks like a chia pet. Hehe.

[danewilson77]

What's that on the right side? Looks like a chia pet. Hehe.

Not seeing it. Once again...right over my head.

[Marcus-SanDiego]

Off to the right side of the picture, where it's green, it looks like that chia-pet grass.

http://www.mkbergman.com/wp-content/themes/ai3/images/2008Posts/080317_chia-pet.jpg

[danewilson77]

ok...I kinda see what you're talking about. On the brass hold down bracket for the battery. There ios actually nothing there...its just kind of textured funny.

[Marcus-SanDiego]

Yep. And it has a green hue to it.

Actually, I just like weaving chia-pet references into everything I can. Haha. Don't mind me.

[jvr826]

I have a Walmart 94R in my car. It was $80. I'm not a walmart fan at all, but couldn't pass up that kind of deal. It's an exact match in physical dimensions to the OE battery I removed, but higher CCA and output.

For you northern climate folks they have a 94RN with even higher CCA.

[danewilson77]

Good data. Thanks jv.....

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk

[Washburn]

So why was there talk about the 49DL (on Bimmerforums) that it didn't fir correctly and people had to put pieces of wood on top so the clamp would clamp down tight?
No one here had any fitment issues, eh?

[kayger12]

I didn't have any fitment issues in my 325.

[MrMaico]

Yep. And it has a green hue to it.

Actually, I just like weaving chia-pet references into everything I can. Haha. Don't mind me.

LOL.....I think that's probably a zinc coating on the bracket.


I have a Walmart 94R in my car. It was $80. I'm not a walmart fan at all, but couldn't pass up that kind of deal. It's an exact match in physical dimensions to the OE battery I removed, but higher CCA and output.

For you northern climate folks they have a 94RN with even higher CCA.

Our local WM had 4 of the 94RN's but last fall when I checked they were all over a year old so since my battery is still hanging in there I am waiting them out till they sell all the old ones, 2 down 2 to go when I checked the other day. I tested it a few months back with a fancy digital tester one of the mechanics at work has and it said "replace" but it still worked fine last time I drove it.....not so sure about his high tech tester. :-) I also noticed that Sams sells an Energizer brand for $10 than the WM battery so I might just get one of those if mine dies on me before WM gets some fresh ones.

Barry

[az3579]

So why was there talk about the 49DL (on Bimmerforums) that it didn't fir correctly and people had to put pieces of wood on top so the clamp would clamp down tight?
No one here had any fitment issues, eh?

No sir, had no problems getting it to clamp down with the battery tie-down plate. The only issue I had with it was the fact that it was a bit longer than the old one, and had to force the positive cable and explosive charge connections onto the positive terminal to keep it down as it had to be crammed into a tight space. It didn't take long at all; don't worry about it.

[JHiggy]

Was excited to read this for DIY sake until "explosive charge". Lovely. Will watch some MacGyver reruns see how to avoid combustion.

[MrMaico]

Was excited to read this for DIY sake until "explosive charge". Lovely. Will watch some MacGyver reruns see how to avoid combustion.

And they aren't exactly cheap either........

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BD53&mospid=47713&btnr=61_1403&hg=61&fg=10

They can be had for about $330 though.

[az3579]

Was excited to read this for DIY sake until "explosive charge". Lovely. Will watch some MacGyver reruns see how to avoid combustion.

Yeah, I was sweating bullets at first as well, but by the end of it, it was "no sweat". I don't think the thing can go off by just knocking on it; I think it's an electronic signal that ignites it. Not sure.
Either way, I would say don't worry about it. I've knocked it against the sheet metal a couple of times as I tried to wiggle it on the terminal, and no foul.

[Tampa330i]

I'm thinking my battery is getting weak. After reading the shark post, I went and checked my battery voltage. It's at 12.1 when off and 13.7-13.8 with engine running. Time for a new battery?

[danewilson77]

Taken from research...I just wanted us to have this info.

Most of you know that replacement BMW batteries in the US were made by Douglas Battery of Winston-Salem, NC. They sold their battery division to East Penn manufacturing co. over a year ago.

East Penn now makes the replacement batteries, and they also offer them under their Deka brand name.

http://www.dekabatteries.com/assets/base/0379.pdf

In looking at this it appears new BMW's use the H7 battery.

IMHO Tampa....if your 12V battery is reading 12.1V when shut down...you should be good still. Not sure though.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

EDIT: Here's what you looking for Tampa (Maybe your battery is a lil weak)......from Bavauto...

Q
2002 325xi
ABS, 4 wheel drive triangle and Brake light are on together. When you turn car off and restart clock gets wiped out, SOMETIMES dash beeps, SOMETIMES there is a buzz under the hood, may come from electrical box near master cyl. Had alt. checked, replaced regulator, replaced battery. Initially, there was no difference. However, it now seems to be working properly. Had to go through several key cycles for everything to reset.

A
Actually, we are seeing a lot of faults and system malfunctions that are related to low system voltage, on the later model BMWs. In your case, with the various symptoms that you had noted (we also see automatic transmission fault warnings, related to this issue), I would have suggested that you check the battery State Of Health (SOH) and the alternator charge output as a first step. Of course, replacing the battery and the alternator regulator covered these areas for you.

Test the battery voltage after running the engine. It should be at least 12.7 volts (it may higher, right after charging). Check the voltage after a couple hours or the next day. The voltage should be 12.5 (75% charge) to 12.7 (100% charge), at this point. If the voltage is lower, the battery may be weak and incapable of holding a full charge.You can test the alternator output by connecting a digital voltmeter across the battery terminals. Start the engine and check the voltage with the engine at idle. You should see at least 13-volts (more is better). turn on the heavy current draw accessories (headlights on high, rear defroster, heated seats, blower motor, etc.). The voltage should still be 13-volts or more. If the voltage drops a bit (but not below 12.5-volts) as it sits and idles, rev it to about 1100 to 1200 RPM. The voltage should come up to above 13-volts.

If the above test looks suspect, you may have low alternator output and this certainly can cause all form of faults and system malfunctions on the later BMWs (about 2000-on).

[Jon D]

Taken from research...I just wanted us to have this info.

Test the battery voltage after running the engine. It should be at least 12.7 volts (it may higher, right after charging). Check the voltage after a couple hours or the next day. The voltage should be 12.5 (75% charge) to 12.7 (100% charge), at this point. If the voltage is lower, the battery may be weak and incapable of holding a full charge.

Knowing a fair bit about batteries - the above is correct in terms of the batteries ability to hold a charge. If your battery about an hour after turning the car off is showing a resting voltage under 12.5 I would consider it weak and plan on replacing at some point in the not to distant future. Once a battery has stopped holding a full charge it will fairly quickly continue to hold less and less of a charge until it finally won't do the job.

Here is a chart of battery state by voltage - for accuracy this should be measured after 24 hours of no load - i.e disconnected.

Battery State chart:
100% = 12.7V
90% = 12.6V
80% = 12.5V
70% = 12.3V
60% = 12.2V
50% = 12.1V
40% = 12.0V
30% = 11.8V
20% = 11.7V
10% = 11.6V
0% = < 11.6V

[Jon D]

I'm thinking my battery is getting weak. After reading the shark post, I went and checked my battery voltage. It's at 12.1 when off and 13.7-13.8 with engine running. Time for a new battery?

Yes - an that might also explain some of your hesitation problem.

[kayger12]

Taken from research...I just wanted us to have this info.

Most of you know that replacement BMW batteries in the US were made by Douglas Battery of Winston-Salem, NC. They sold their battery division to East Penn manufacturing co. over a year ago.

East Penn now makes the replacement batteries, and they also offer them under their Deka brand name.

http://www.dekabatteries.com/assets/base/0379.pdf

In looking at this it appears new BMW's use the H7 battery.

IMHO Tampa....if your 12V battery is reading 12.1V when shut down...you should be good still. Not sure though.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

EDIT: Here's what you looking for Tampa (Maybe your battery is a lil weak)......from Bavauto...

Q
2002 325xi
ABS, 4 wheel drive triangle and Brake light are on together. When you turn car off and restart clock gets wiped out, SOMETIMES dash beeps, SOMETIMES there is a buzz under the hood, may come from electrical box near master cyl. Had alt. checked, replaced regulator, replaced battery. Initially, there was no difference. However, it now seems to be working properly. Had to go through several key cycles for everything to reset.

A
Actually, we are seeing a lot of faults and system malfunctions that are related to low system voltage, on the later model BMWs. In your case, with the various symptoms that you had noted (we also see automatic transmission fault warnings, related to this issue), I would have suggested that you check the battery State Of Health (SOH) and the alternator charge output as a first step. Of course, replacing the battery and the alternator regulator covered these areas for you.

Test the battery voltage after running the engine. It should be at least 12.7 volts (it may higher, right after charging). Check the voltage after a couple hours or the next day. The voltage should be 12.5 (75% charge) to 12.7 (100% charge), at this point. If the voltage is lower, the battery may be weak and incapable of holding a full charge.You can test the alternator output by connecting a digital voltmeter across the battery terminals. Start the engine and check the voltage with the engine at idle. You should see at least 13-volts (more is better). turn on the heavy current draw accessories (headlights on high, rear defroster, heated seats, blower motor, etc.). The voltage should still be 13-volts or more. If the voltage drops a bit (but not below 12.5-volts) as it sits and idles, rev it to about 1100 to 1200 RPM. The voltage should come up to above 13-volts.

If the above test looks suspect, you may have low alternator output and this certainly can cause all form of faults and system malfunctions on the later BMWs (about 2000-on).

Great info. Gracias.

[Johnmadd]

I like to upgrade to a red top or better yet a yellow top optima battery whenever I get a dead battery, and it doesn't need the vent hose becauase it is totally sealed. You can mount it upside down if desired. These are the best out, so why not. I believe they cost about $140 - $160.

Why is nobody upgrading their battery, I like oem stuff as much as the next guy, but these are proven batteries that most racers use and are available to everyone, so why not.

[az3579]

Why is nobody upgrading their battery, I like oem stuff as much as the next guy, but these are proven batteries that most racers use and are available to everyone, so why not.

Because they are insanely expensive and the cheaper ones do the same thing. :p

[danewilson77]

Where is the link to the non oem oem battery that was posted about a week ago....for around $120?

Color was white...perfect fitment. Anyone else remember seeing that?

[kayger12]

I remember. Was it a Pep Boys Bosch?

I'm looking...

[danewilson77]

I think.......I searched and was unsuccessful.

[kayger12]

The one on the Pep Boys site is $144.

Droid X. Tapatalk. Use it.

[danewilson77]

Got it....

http://c2c.activant.com/ctoc/index.jsp?ID=dAi1oFiopEU57NTd_CUdGM2xCVF86DlBrUHJT O00A

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/230484845.jpg

[Marcus-SanDiego]

Yep. That's carried at my store:

BOSCH-36/96 MO

* LTD. 36 MONTH FREE REPLACE.
* 730CCA/800CA - RESERVE MIN = 80 - OE CCA: 640 - BATTERY IS VENTED OUTSIDE OF VEHICLE

94R730B BATTERIES 1 $144.99
+ $12.00
core charge
Normally Stocked

[MrMaico]

Walmart also carries a white one. Everstart MAXX 94R or 94RN (Northern climate) if you're looking for something cheaper. It is 765 CCA with 3 yr/8 yr warranty. They were $83 when I looked the other day.

EDIT: oooops, I didn't realize I had already posted about this in this thread.

[Nivo]

Why is nobody upgrading their battery, I like oem stuff as much as the next guy, but these are proven batteries that most racers use and are available to everyone, so why not.

If I was going to pay an insane amount for an OEM battery I would do this:
http://www.race-mart.com/BrailleBattery-BRA-B10049.html

Braille batteries by Deka which now make the BMW batts, East-Penn.

[danewilson77]

If I was going to pay an insane amount for an OEM battery I would do this:
http://www.race-mart.com/BrailleBattery-BRA-B10049.html

Braille batteries by Deka which now make the BMW batts, East-Penn.

Nivo...great info. Is that battery any lighter? You know..it being a race battery and all.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk

[billschusteriv]

I just went with the OE battery from BMW. It was apparently the same price as the Gold Duralast equivalent from Autozone after my discount ($140). IIRC the BMW one has a 7 year warranty.

The DEKA installed by the PO was undersized.

[danewilson77]

I just went with the OE battery from BMW. It was apparently the same price as the Gold Duralast equivalent from Autozone after my discount ($140). IIRC the BMW one has a 7 year warranty.

The DEKA installed by the PO was undersized.

Did it not work right? Did you have problems with the undersized battery.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk

[Cadeez]

I bought a new battery this morning, mine was KO'd after my lighting install and two ECU flashes. Paid $125 for it, although I got it through a friend who works for a shop and got a % discount through O'Reilly Auto parts. Perfect fit, identical to the OEM one which was still in there after 7 years?!? I was even able to transfer the terminal covers and breather/overflow hose. Looks to be just a no name brand, "Extra Charge" or something of that nature.

[llll1l1ll]

Although I haven't tested the voltage yet, I have a feeling my battery may be on its way out. The car will turn over, but it's a slower crank than it should be. I also noticed some slight decreases in RPMs when the electrical things are turned on, as well as a slight pop in a speaker. My E30 experienced similar problems until eventually it just wouldn't crank and I had to push start it everywhere. The alternator in my ZHP was replaced about 20K ago, so it should still be okay.

Anyway, as much of a DIYer as I am, I am terrified of anything electrical. My (very stupid) question is: what is the proper procedure for disconnecting the battery and subsequently reconnecting the new one?




Also... *sigh* is red to negative and black to positive?

[kayger12]

Although I haven't tested the voltage yet, I have a feeling my battery may be on its way out. The car will turn over, but it's a slower crank than it should be. I also noticed some slight decreases in RPMs when the electrical things are turned on, as well as a slight pop in a speaker. My E30 experienced similar problems until eventually it just wouldn't crank and I had to push start it everywhere. The alternator in my ZHP was replaced about 20K ago, so it should still be okay.

Anyway, as much of a DIYer as I am, I am terrified of anything electrical. My (very stupid) question is: what is the proper procedure for disconnecting the battery and subsequently reconnecting the new one?




Also... *sigh* is red to negative and black to positive?

No stupid questions here.

Red= positive. Black=negative.

Battery change is straight forward-- disconnect negative cable, disconnect positive cable, loosen/remove retention bracket, disconnect vent hose, and pull her out.

Drop in the new battery, connect vent hose, re-secure retention bracket, connect positive, connect negative.

You want to be careful when you're using whatever tool you're using to loosen/tighten the bracket and loosen/tighten the terminals that you don't make contact with the positive battery terminal.

Plenty of help here if you have any questions.

[llll1l1ll]

Thanks a ton!

I can do valve adjustments, brakes, head gaskets, timing belts, water pumps, but damn it if I don't always get confused with which cable on the battery to disconnect and reconnect first.

[Washburn]

That helped me to refresh my memory, too, so don't feel bad :)
I think i'll just whatever the battery place i get the battery at change the battery - most places that sell batteries change them at no cost, i think...

[ranger]

Knowing a fair bit about batteries - the above is correct in terms of the batteries ability to hold a charge. If your battery about an hour after turning the car off is showing a resting voltage under 12.5 I would consider it weak and plan on replacing at some point in the not to distant future. Once a battery has stopped holding a full charge it will fairly quickly continue to hold less and less of a charge until it finally won't do the job.

Here is a chart of battery state by voltage - for accuracy this should be measured after 24 hours of no load - i.e disconnected.

Battery State chart:
100% = 12.7V
90% = 12.6V
80% = 12.5V
70% = 12.3V
60% = 12.2V
50% = 12.1V
40% = 12.0V
30% = 11.8V
20% = 11.7V
10% = 11.6V
0% = < 11.6V

My ZHP would not start yesterday morning - it had some battery power and the motor would turn over but not fire. I suspected battery - took another car to work and bought a new Advance auto battery on way home (Cyber Monday 20% off plus $50 rebate!). Tonight after work, I went to replace battery and saw that car has a February 2011 battery in it (I bought this car a few months ago - previous owner must have recently changed). From advice above, I checked voltage - new battery disconnected of course was 12.7. Current battery (2/11 date) is still connected is showing 12.1.

Note - this ZHP has an aftermarket stereo system with two amps, a large single sub in trunk, and a large capacitor. I am old - I do not drive the stereo that hard. The capzcitor actually has a meter built in and I usually see 12.8 displayed when I open the trunk with car off.

I put the current battery on a charger to see if it will charge. I wonder if the relatively new existing battery is already "bad" or if this is a fluke?

I hate to just throw away $120 on a new battery if I do not need one but hate even more getting stuck on the side of the road!

[Jorge86]

My battery just went dead. It had to be jump started at the car wash. After my abs,brake light and air bag light came on. Car wanted to die at idle. I checked the voltage and it was 10.5. I took the battery out and it's charging and testing now. I had a interstate h7. Hopefully it's just a battery.

[danewilson77]

My battery just went dead. It had to be jump started at the car wash. After my abs,brake light and air bag light came on. Car wanted to die at idle. I checked the voltage and it was 10.5. I took the battery out and it's charging and testing now. I had a interstate h7. Hopefully it's just a battery.

How old?

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

[kayger12]

Either the battery or alternator.

You'll know soon enough...

[danewilson77]

Copied an pasted from a post that zj96sc made. Good info and I want it found if someone doeas a "Battery" title search.

"Well, the OEM (Exide, 61216946333) battery finally kicked the bucket. I guess you can't really get mad at 7 years and 105,000 miles out of a battery.

For replacement I considered the Duralast 49DL, Duralast 94R-DLG, the Autocraft 94RH7 and OEM.

The 49DL seems pretty go-to across the forum communities (higher CCA, lower price), and though not listed as a match it will fit if the length spacer is removed (its 1" and change longer).

The 49DL:
850CCA
155min RC
2 year warranty
43.04lbs
$109.99 + core

The 94R-DLG:
790CCA
140min RC
8 year warranty, 3 year free replacement
47.41lbs
$165.99 + core

The 94RH7:
765CCA
140min RC
7/3 warranty
47lbs
$166.99

OEM is actually affordable ($114 or $150 from your favorite parts dealers for the douglas and exide, respectively) but shipping won't work so you're stuck with local dealer prices which are of course garbage.

Also considered walmart but didn't really see anything to sway me.

Unfortunately the 49DL's warranty seems to have recently dropped from 7 years or thereabouts to 2 years. I also had a friend (GT172I) have one go completely bad after 2 years. That was enough to dissuade me.

Between the 94R-DLG and the 94RH7, both are made by johnson controls (says the internet) and are direct swap replacements - even the vent tube plugs right in.

I've run autocraft batteries in my 7.3L for a few years and have been happy with them - plus Advance was having a 20% off sale so I wound up paying $133. Decision made. New one has a 10/12 date sticker so it seems to be pretty fresh. Incidentally, the guy told me they sold NINE of those batteries today. There was an X5 in the parking lot getting a new battery - counter guy said the guy doing that swap actually used the battery pulled from stock for me.

No pics of the swap - pretty straightforward. My car starts now - pretty fancy."

[quikryptonite]

I've currently got the 94R-DLG in my trunk. A few months ago my indy mechanic asked if I wanted to replace it with the OEM battery. He told me there are so many modules needing power and the OEM is the only battery in the world designed to work well in the E46. Is he just trying to up sell me a battery?

[danewilson77]

^yes.

[JKO_ZHP]

Had a 49DL myself, loved it. Think it was $115 but they give you a $25 refund once you bring a core back.

[zj96sc]

Thanks for the cut/paste Dane - didn't know this thread existed.

Yeah, that is some bogus upsell BS. Batteries are rated by cranking amps, cold cranking amps, and reserve capacity. It is apples to apples.

The 49dl went up in price to 109+core.

[pfr]

My battery is not holding the charge any more so I went through this thread to see what other people found; checked out the Autozone 94Rh7 as one of the recommended batteries. The Autozone site says this is not a fit for my car ('06 330Ci). I checked what they'd say if I lie and say it is a 2005: they say it fits but
"790 CCA; OE Group H7; OE CCA Rating: 640; DO NOT INSTALL; When batteries are replaced in these models, the battery information must be reset in the power management system and the battery replacement registered. If this is not performed, the system works off inaccurate data which can lead to issues such as premature failure of the new battery. Please inform customers and recommend that they have their battery replaced at an authorized BMW dealership/shop."

I haven't seen any sign of this in the previous posts?? how do you reset the battery information ? and do you really have to do it? any insight?

edit: what if I hook up the charger to supply juice while I'm swapping out the battery?

thanks
Peter

[danewilson77]

Sounds like bullshit to me.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

[Go Horns!]

FWIW I use Sears batteries because of their warranty service. I bought a battery for the Tahoe that had a five-year warranty and they replaced it for free twice and once I was out of warranty they gave me 30% off the next battery. Then again, Sears quit offering long warranties on their batteries.

[pfr]

Sounds like bullshit to me.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

Thanks Dane; judging from the fact that nobody has mentioned it before I tend to believe that...

[MrMaico]

My battery is not holding the charge any more so I went through this thread to see what other people found; checked out the Autozone 94Rh7 as one of the recommended batteries. The Autozone site says this is not a fit for my car ('06 330Ci). I checked what they'd say if I lie and say it is a 2005: they say it fits but
"790 CCA; OE Group H7; OE CCA Rating: 640; DO NOT INSTALL; When batteries are replaced in these models, the battery information must be reset in the power management system and the battery replacement registered. If this is not performed, the system works off inaccurate data which can lead to issues such as premature failure of the new battery. Please inform customers and recommend that they have their battery replaced at an authorized BMW dealership/shop."

I haven't seen any sign of this in the previous posts?? how do you reset the battery information ? and do you really have to do it? any insight?

edit: what if I hook up the charger to supply juice while I'm swapping out the battery?

thanks
Peter

That battery registering info is for the E9X series and newer cars. Doesn't apply to our E46 series thankfully. No need to hook a charger to your car while swapping out the battery. All you'll need to do is reset your clock afterwards. You won't even lose your radio presets.

I had mine unhooked for over a week while getting my steering wheel recovered without any issues.

Barry

[zj96sc]

Yeah, that's accurate information for the e9x, their system surely doesn't delineate between the overlapped e46 and e90 production in 06.

On an e46 you're fine.

[pfr]

Thank you all; Duralast bought, installed (fit perfectly) and car (and owner) is happy...!!

- Peter

[Washburn]

Slightly OT, but related:

Is anyone here using a battery tender/trickle charger for ZHPs that don't get driven everyday/very often? any particular ones you guys like?

[SoCalZman]

I drive my car only once every 2 weeks (give or take), and it hasnt let me down. I think it might even be the original battery. I should probably change it soon....haha.

[danewilson77]

Slightly OT, but related:

Is anyone here using a battery tender/trickle charger for ZHPs that don't get driven everyday/very often? any particular ones you guys like?

Charlie uses one...

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

[cakM3]

Slightly OT, but related:

Is anyone here using a battery tender/trickle charger for ZHPs that don't get driven everyday/very often? any particular ones you guys like?

I'm using this for my ///M while it is stored throughout the winter months...this is the second season using this charger...haven't had any issues so far :thumbsup

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/ScreenShot2012-11-24at71858PM.png

the link is: http://www.duracellpower.com/battery-chargers/battery-chargers/6-12-25-amp-battery-chargers.aspx (http://www.duracellpower.com/battery-chargers/battery-chargers/6-12-25-amp-battery-chargers.aspx)

[Johal E32]

Slightly OT, but related:

Is anyone here using a battery tender/trickle charger for ZHPs that don't get driven everyday/very often? any particular ones you guys like?

I have one made by Interstate. It seems pretty good, I throw it on our Lincoln (NEVER gets driven) every few weeks just to keep the battery healthy. I don't want to keep it connected at all times because I don't like wires :shifty

[brettbimmer]

My OEM battery gave up the ghost after an oil service yesterday, and I grabbed a few photos which may be useful here. Probably going with the Duralast unit mentioned above in this thread. Thanks for the help Mafia fam!



Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk

[Crickett]

Slightly OT, but related:

Is anyone here using a battery tender/trickle charger for ZHPs that don't get driven everyday/very often? any particular ones you guys like?

I used a Deltran Battery Tender brand solar charger (http://batterytender.com/products/solar/5-watt-solar-panel.html) for my ZHP when it was stored outdoors for a few months, & their standard plug-in style (http://batterytender.com/products/automotive/battery-tender-junior-12v-at-0-75a.html) when I moved it indoors for another few months. Both kept my battery charged enough to start on the first try with no hesitation!

[brettbimmer]

Duralast 94R-DLG installed.



Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk

[danewilson77]

Brettski....did that one have a place for the vent tube? It looks like there's holes for the red cover.

[brettbimmer]

Brettski....did that one have a place for the vent tube? It looks like there's holes for the red cover.

Yes, I took the 90 degree elbow from the old battery, and plugged it right in. You are correct as well that the positive (red) terminal cover fits right in place. I left it off so that everyone could see the explosive positive charge, but it is installed once again. Isn't this the same battery that you have?

FWIW, 3 year replacement, 8 year pro-rated warranty with this model. It was about $160, but fitment is excellent!

[danewilson77]

Yes, I took the 90 degree elbow from the old battery, and plugged it right in. You are correct as well that the positive (red) terminal cover fits right in place. I left it off so that everyone could see the explosive positive charge, but it is installed once again. Isn't this the same battery that you have?

FWIW, 3 year replacement, 8 year pro-rated warranty with this model. It was about $160, but fitment is excellent!

Yes. Thanks for making me look/feel like an idiot....publicly. I need that every now and then :)

[brettbimmer]

Yes. Thanks for making me look/feel like an idiot....publicly. I need that every now and then :)

I wasn't trying to make you feel bad at all! Oh man...sorry about that.

The guy at Autozone did pull the 90 degree elbow off the old battery when I brought it into the store if that makes you feel better. :danehappy I knew that I was going to need a way to vent it, but he was like "don't forget this piece."

I think that you have had soooo many Bimmers over the years that it is difficult to keep them all straight, particularly on parts of the car that are not often seen, as in batteries, etc. At least, that's my excuse! :innocent:biggrin (Is it working?)

[danewilson77]

Just playing. I just can't believe I forgot what battery I had.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

[brettbimmer]

Just playing. I just can't believe I forgot what battery I had.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

No worries Boss! It happens! I figured you were just playing here, but wanted to be 1000% sure.

[Washburn]

Got my original OEM white changed today...with a (Walmart) Everstart MAXX 94R (Now called H7) for $118. 3 yr warranty.
790 cranking amps...battery date 5/12, not very recent, but does the job well.
This model has 2 vent holes. used the old vent elbow and tube from car to fit right into new battery's one hole; and the new battery comes with an extra 'plug' for the other vent hole, and used the plug on that one. Red (+) terminal cover also fit right onto the new battery.

What a difference it made the 1st time I started it; so quick and easy...the old BMW battery definitely was weak, and as it got colder, it has been cranking longer and slower each time. I think it was a good time to get the new one...

I only had to reset the clock. Seat and radio station memory were all still there.

[llll1l1ll]

I learned a lesson last night. For the past month or so, the airbag and DSC light would come on when cranking. I knew the battery was on the way out, but I thought I had time. Yesterday, the radio was acting up. Wouldn't come out of "Phone" mode. Car was driving fine. I get in it this morning to go to work. Barely any cranking, lots of groaning from the HVAC console (the initial noise when you turn the ignition on). Finally it would do one or two slow cranks and just click.

Had to take the girlfriend's Mercury Milan VOGA to work this morning. Ew.

[johnrando]

I learned a lesson last night. For the past month or so, the airbag and DSC light would come on when cranking. I knew the battery was on the way out, but I thought I had time. Yesterday, the radio was acting up. Wouldn't come out of "Phone" mode. Car was driving fine. I get in it this morning to go to work. Barely any cranking, lots of groaning from the HVAC console (the initial noise when you turn the ignition on). Finally it would do one or two slow cranks and just click.

Had to take the girlfriend's Mercury Milan VOGA to work this morning. Ew.

Ew. Just make sure you take a good shower after you get out of that car. lol (just kidding, I don't even know what that is).

[llll1l1ll]

Hahahahah it's a basic American sedan.

[Washburn]

spoiled brats ;) j/k

[llll1l1ll]

http://cdn.memegenerator.net/instances/400x/33580328.jpg

If anyone was wondering, my battery is the 94RH7 or whatever from Advance Auto Parts. It came to $191.00. :/ Installation was easy, though. Out with the old, in with the new. No finagling, rummaging, moving, altering, or anything like that. It has a 7 year warranty, too.

[danewilson77]

http://cdn.memegenerator.net/instances/400x/33580328.jpg

If anyone was wondering, my battery is the 94RH7 or whatever from Advance Auto Parts. It came to $191.00. :/ Installation was easy, though. Out with the old, in with the new. No finagling, rummaging, moving, altering, or anything like that. It has a 7 year warranty, too.

Holy shit!

[kayger12]

^Yeah, I was thinking that's $100 more than I spent on my last battery. Of course mine will only last 4 years, not 7.

[llll1l1ll]

Yeah it was pricey, but I get to take my original BMW battery back to see if they'll refund me the $15 core charge.

Surprisingly, this was the best price I could come up with short of driving to Silver Spring to Tischer via getbmwparts.com.

Edit: I should note the price included tax and the core charge. So, battery was $166, plus $15 core charge, plus about $9 in taxes.

[Washburn]

Damn That's a pricey battery! - I paid $118 for my Walmart 94R (Now called H7) with 790 CCA....installed.

[llll1l1ll]

Damn I didn't even think to go to Wally World. Probably would have been a hassle to get there from where I am, though.

Oh well. At least my car starts now.

[deuce08s]

Just checked and the 49-DL is $84.99 + $5 core. Doesn't seem bad considering the warranty is only 2 years. Doesn't seem to make sense to pay twice that for the 94R-DLG for only one more year of warranty and less CCA. But I'm in MN and it is -8 out right now, so CCA's are important to me. My battery is original in my 05 and we'll see how it does after work tonight!

[llll1l1ll]

I just needed a battery that day and could not wait any longer. When ya can't shop around, you have to pay.

[wsmeyer]

Just picked up a Duralast 94R-DLG from AutoZone. Wasnt cheap, $165 but it's exactly the same size as the original and has 8yr warranty, 3yr replacement.

Mine was still the original and was down to 11.7V and cranking slow on those cold SoCal mornings :)

[WOLFN8TR]

Just picked up a Duralast 94R-DLG from AutoZone. Wasnt cheap, $165 but it's exactly the same size as the original and has 8yr warranty, 3yr replacement.

Mine was still the original and was down to 11.7V and cranking slow on those cold SoCal mornings :)

Thanks for the info, heading there after work to snag one.

[llll1l1ll]

Just picked up a Duralast 94R-DLG from AutoZone. Wasnt cheap, $165 but it's exactly the same size as the original and has 8yr warranty, 3yr replacement.

Mine was still the original and was down to 11.7V and cranking slow on those cold SoCal mornings :)

For the record, that's what I paid! My total was plus taxes and core charge.

[Dave1027]

I read the 49DL is a better option over the 94R-DLG. Cheaper and more cranking amps.

[WOLFN8TR]

I read the 49DL is a better option over the 94R-DLG. Cheaper and more cranking amps.

For replacement I considered the Duralast 49DL, Duralast 94R-DLG, the Autocraft 94RH7 and OEM.

The 49DL seems pretty go-to across the forum communities (higher CCA, lower price), and though not listed as a match it will fit if the length spacer is removed (its 1" and change longer).

The 49DL:
850CCA
155min RC
2 year warranty
43.04lbs
$109.99 + core

The 94R-DLG:
790CCA
140min RC
8 year warranty, 3 year free replacement
47.41lbs
$165.99 + core

The 94RH7:
765CCA
140min RC
7/3 warranty
47lbs
$166.99


http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/29/pe8yhymy.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/29/epepa7yz.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/29/8yvevuda.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/29/e2u8uhe4.jpg

[Stu]

The 49-DL has been discontinued. You can get the Bosch 49-850b for pretty much the same price. It has identical specs. It is found at Pep Boys.

[JDDsZHP]

Just replaced mine with the Duralast 94R-DLG from AutoZone. Paid 159.99 + core. In stock and the fit was perfect.

Startups were getting slow and voltage was measuring 12.4v, so I knew it was going. The car sat for 3 weeks without driving it, and it wouldn't turn over. The old battery wasn't OEM, so had been replaced at some point, but I couldn't find a date.

[echo46]

Three weeks ago I got the 49dl for the ZHP. I don't think it is discontinued.

[SoCalZman]

Knowing a fair bit about batteries - the above is correct in terms of the batteries ability to hold a charge. If your battery about an hour after turning the car off is showing a resting voltage under 12.5 I would consider it weak and plan on replacing at some point in the not to distant future. Once a battery has stopped holding a full charge it will fairly quickly continue to hold less and less of a charge until it finally won't do the job.

Here is a chart of battery state by voltage - for accuracy this should be measured after 24 hours of no load - i.e disconnected.

Battery State chart:
100% = 12.7V
90% = 12.6V
80% = 12.5V
70% = 12.3V
60% = 12.2V
50% = 12.1V
40% = 12.0V
30% = 11.8V
20% = 11.7V
10% = 11.6V
0% = < 11.6V

I think this is happening to me. Last few times I have started the car (week to two week spacing) the cranking has gotten slower. Last night she barely started after two painfully slow cranks. Im sorry I am neglecting you, girl! Anyway, I am not exhibiting any other odd symptoms that E46s tend to get with weak batteries, but I am going to do the dashboard voltage test when I get home from work tonight and take out the battery and run it over to the parts store to load test as well.


No stupid questions here.

Red= positive. Black=negative.

Battery change is straight forward-- disconnect negative cable, disconnect positive cable, loosen/remove retention bracket, disconnect vent hose, and pull her out.

Drop in the new battery, connect vent hose, re-secure retention bracket, connect positive, connect negative.

You want to be careful when you're using whatever tool you're using to loosen/tighten the bracket and loosen/tighten the terminals that you don't make contact with the positive battery terminal.

Plenty of help here if you have any questions.

This will help, thanks. Any specific tools I need? I have yet to take a battery out of a E46.

Ugh, I called BMW and they are going to want around 200 for a new battery.
Edit: found this one. Its supposedly fairly new and sealed, so I guess no vent tube is needed. Similar price to OEM. not sure about specs. What do you think?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Platinum-Battery/2005-BMW-330I/_/N-jmz8hZacy27?itemIdentifier=319458_351741_0_

[danewilson77]

Nope. Just a 10mm socket. A small extension will help.

[SoCalZman]

Thanks Dane. Went to the dealer this morning, and removed the battery in the parking lot with a 10mm (and 13mm for the brace bolts). Man that thing is heavy. Ended up getting the battery for 140 plus tax, and she started right up. Much better than before. Impressed that I lost NO settings after the battery had been out. Nice.

Oh, I noticed there was some white powder in the compartment. I assume it came from the battery. Not sure if that is something I should remove before it eats the metal away or what?

[danewilson77]

Yeah.. I would clean that up. You got a BMW battery for $140?

Sent from the HTC DNA, Williamsburg, VA and USA

[BCS_ZHP]

DW,
That's about what I paid for my last one - think it was $169.99, they took 20% off & the the VA 5% sales tax added put me in the $142 range.

[SoCalZman]

What BCS said. They gave me a discount.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[wsmeyer]

I would have bought OEM for that price too.

Regarding the white powder, is the vent tube connected?

[SoCalZman]

I made sure the vent tub was connected on the new battery. Honestly I pulled the battery out before I could see the tube on the old battery. Why do you ask?

[Johnmadd]

I made sure the vent tub was connected on the new battery. Honestly I pulled the battery out before I could see the tube on the old battery. Why do you ask?

That's the stuff I was referring to in your pm... that stuff can rust a hole through the car.

[LivesNearCostco]

I think the white stuff comes when some acid leaks out of the filler caps then dries up. On my battery about 18 months ago I found some of the caps were slightly loose. Tightened them down and put some baking soda in there to neutralize the acid, but probably need to check those caps again.

[SoCalZman]

That's the stuff I was referring to in your pm... that stuff can rust a hole through the car.

Ack! Ok. Battery is coming out today and I am going to clean it up. Will water and paper towels be enough?

[wsmeyer]

That white stuff is the residue left from evaporated battery acid. In a good battery only fumes are generated and the vent tube routes them outside of the car. As a battery gets old the internal resistance goes higher causing heat and some of the acid can boil out of the vent tube or caps.

As long as it hasn't eaten through the paint it's not going to be a big problem. You can remove the bulk of it by adding some water and then wiping it up with a rag, then wet it again with a small amount of water and sprinkle some baking soda on it to neutralize the remaining. Let that sit for 10 minutes or so and clean that up.

[SoCalZman]

Great info. Thanks guys. Let this be a lesson to everyone else!

[SoCalZman]

Here is the inside of the battery container. I cleaned it all out and now letting baking soda sit in there. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/15/9agaje4y.jpg

What's strange though is I noticed the same powder on the complete other side of the trunk.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/15/agu4ape2.jpg

I cleaned it up as best i could and put baking soda on it too. Is it possible for this stuff to get that far away from the battery compartment and underneath the shelf too? Or could this be baking soda from a precious owners milk spill or something? The battery I took out seemed pretty clean

[Johnmadd]

I think that's not too bad but... its bad. Ever watch myth busters? I believe cola/soda will be the best solution... and a nice cleaning afterwards.

[SoCalZman]

Its out of there for the most part. I spent about an hour cleaning it all up. Nice and clean now. It wiped right off with water too, which I thought if it was dried acid would be harder to wipe up.

Also, I am wondering how its not only in the battery compartment but on the drivers side of the trunk too. The 2nd picture was next to where the car jack is stored. How does it get all the way over there if it comes out of the battery as a liquid?

[Johnmadd]

Fumes are what causes this. Other than that I don't know.

[echo46]

See above, get the Duralast 49dl for $85 dollars from AutoZone. They will incorrectly tell you it doesn't fit but rest assured it is perfect.

[wsmeyer]

Ran across this bit of info in my Bentley manual:

8367

I was wondering why my battery hold down was different than the others pictured in this thread. I guess we'll find out how long my new standard battery lasts in a convertible

[danewilson77]

Ran across this bit of info in my Bentley manual:

8367

I was wondering why my battery hold down was different than the others pictured in this thread. I guess we'll find out how long my new standard battery lasts in a convertible

Nice tidbit Will. I'll put that in my NS file.

HTC DNA, Williamsburg, VA

[fredo]

See above, get the Duralast 49dl for $85 dollars from AutoZone. They will incorrectly tell you it doesn't fit but rest assured it is perfect.

+1

[brewer90]

FYI the Duralast 49DL is no longer made. It has been replaced by the H8 and the cheapest version is now $130 at Autozone. I ended up going with the 94R/H7 from Advance Auto. It is made by Johnson Controls and was $160. I found a $40 coupon and took it down to $120. It has a 3 yr replacement and then a 2 yr prorated after that.

Man batteries sure have shot up in price over the past couple of years.

[justinco]

FYI the Duralast 49DL is no longer made. It has been replaced by the H8 and the cheapest version is now $130 at Autozone. I ended up going with the 94R/H7 from Advance Auto. It is made by Johnson Controls and was $160. I found a $40 coupon and took it down to $120. It has a 3 yr replacement and then a 2 yr prorated after that.

Man batteries sure have shot up in price over the past couple of years.

I'm looking at this battery myself: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Gold-Battery/2005-BMW-330I/_/N-jmz8hZacy27?itemIdentifier=603386_636952_0_

Any tips on getting the plastic battery cover off that hides the battery compartment? I am having a hard time with mine, I can get the left side up but the right side seems like it is stuck to the trunk interior. Feel like if I pull any harder I'm going to break something.

[johnrando]

You've likely done this, but make sure the clips are off of the battery cover, and the trunk cover/carpet is all the way out of the way. It should just lift/back out no biggie. Pic of how it's stuck?

[justinco]

You've likely done this, but make sure the clips are off of the battery cover, and the trunk cover/carpet is all the way out of the way. It should just lift/back out no biggie. Pic of how it's stuck?

I got out finally, had to lift it up at a higher angle so it would pull out from under the interior carpet/panel.

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 4

[Dave1027]

I also need to pull mine apart to check out the venting. Whenever I open the trunk I could swear there's been a hobo living in there with a serious case of BO. :dunno

[LivesNearCostco]

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. My car failed to start today and I had to ask a helpful guy in the library parking lot (who was doing a video chat on his laptop with his daughter, sitting in the car--maybe the library offers free WiFi) to give me a jump. Like the last time the battery failed me, I took it out and put more distilled water into the wells under the vent caps, but figured it was time for a new one. Don't want to get stranded. Battery at least 4 years old, installed sometime in 2009. It's an auto-lite 49 type fitment with an 84-month pro-rated warranty but I'm not sure I can claim it without original receipt.

Went to AutoZone and bought the 94DLG. Thought about getting the H8DL, which replaced the 49DL and was $20 cheaper than the 94DLG. It has more CCA and is cheaper, but has shorter warranty. Also longer (same length as my failing battery) and heavier.

Any thoughts whether it's better to return old AutoLite for $15 core refund from AutoZone or try to claim 30%-50% prorated warranty from AutoLite? I don't know where the old battery was purchased.

[KevinC]

That battery should be fine in the mild bay area climate. Out here in the desert, the best AGM monster you can find is mandatory. I've been lucky to get about 4 years out of my AGM's, thanks to BMW sticking the battery in the back, at least sparing it the engine compartment heat during the summer, which has to be brutal. "Normal" batteries fail incredibly fast out here. OEM battery in my last VW was deader than a fart at 1 year.

[LivesNearCostco]

Thanks, KevinC. This AutoZone did have two AGM options in stock, one the H8 (longer than stock) and the other was a 94. I decided not to pay the extra money for the AGM one.

Do battery makers honor their warranties in Arizona?

[danewilson77]

FYI the Duralast 49DL is no longer made. It has been replaced by the H8 and the cheapest version is now $130 at Autozone. I ended up going with the 94R/H7 from Advance Auto. It is made by Johnson Controls and was $160. I found a $40 coupon and took it down to $120. It has a 3 yr replacement and then a 2 yr prorated after that.

Man batteries sure have shot up in price over the past couple of years.

Anyone else got the 94R/H7?

[Washburn]

I have an H7 in mine for about a year now - (replaced factory battery), and fit/works great.

[danewilson77]

I have an H7 in mine for about a year now - (replaced factory battery), and fit/works great.

Thanks Washy.

Sent from my S4 > Mason, OH

[tomjonesrocks]

Bumping up an old thread...considering the Walmart Everstart Maxx battery as everything else seems priced so outrageously right now.

From what I read both the H7 and H8 fit this car. Why are most here opting for the H7?
http://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-Maxx-Group-Size-H7-Automotive-Battery/20531542
http://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-MAXX-H8-Automotive-Battery/16782659

Thanks!

[TheFinanceGuy]

Hmm...I was looking at these two:

H7-AGM:

http://www.autozone.com/routine-maintenance/battery/duralast-platinum-battery/319458_930086_0/

94R-DLG:

http://www.autozone.com/routine-maintenance/battery/duralast-gold-battery/603386_636952_0/

Is the H8 the replacement for the H7 or has more CCA? Says it doesn't fit on the site, but obviously that is false.


I set out to get the 94R, however, they were out of stock. Since my ZHP was dead, I needed a battery, and turned to the H8. The sales rep also informed me it wouldn't fit, though it is physically the same size as the 94R.

It fits great. The H8 and H7 are close to the same IIRC. H8 has more CCA, and longer reserve limits.

http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j464/TheFinanceGuy/ZHP/D2E38E1E-21AC-449E-93CB-DAAC87281905_zps7hlmbgf1.jpg

battery installed in my car.

Here is some of a conversation from NoVAphotog's thread. Putting it here for information.

[tomjonesrocks]

Here is some of a conversation from NoVAphotog's thread. Putting it here for information.

Thanks! Swung by Walmart today and went with the H8. $123+tx for more battery sounded better to me than $150+tx for less of one.

From what I can tell, the H8 is 1" longer than the H7 and plenty have been successful with it; just not as many as with the H7.

All these prices are frustrating though as a couple years back this would have set me back like $80.

[KevinC]

Too late for you, but for others following, be aware that the major parts chains (Pep Boys, AutoZone, etc), often have online discounts available, and usually you can still pick up in your local store and get the savings. Also, NAPA has a 10% AAA discount you can simply ask for. Work it as best you can!

[BMWCurves]

Bumping the thread for advice and a couple of questions:

When I got my PPI in March the original battery was still in the car, but according to the mechanic it was still okay. These were the results:

http://i.imgur.com/IKboAxy.jpg

I figure at 10 years old, whether or not it's doing okay it's probably due for a change. My questions are:

Am I right that it's worth changing the battery now?
Do brands matter? The EverStart H8 from WalMart is much cheaper than Duralast 94R-DLG or Duralast H8-DLG from AutoZone, SuperStart 94REXTJ from O'Reilly Auto Parts, Legend 94R from NAPA Auto Parts, etc.
Are the H8s and 94Rs pretty much interchangeable? Those are just size designations, correct?
Are there any other issues installing either of those models of batteries (excluding AGM that I hear requires programming?)
If none of the above matters it seems the WalMart H8 battery seems like a perfectly good option (link: http://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-MAXX-H8-Automotive-Battery/16782659). Anyone had any issues or know of problems with it?

I appreciate any help!

[WOLFN8TR]

If your battery is 10 years old I would replace it before it leaves you stranded. I replaced my ZHP battery with Autozone's Duralast 94R-DLG. You could charge it but at the 10 year mark most batteries have reached their limit.

[Johnmadd]

If your battery is 10 years old I would replace it before it leaves you stranded. I replaced my ZHP battery with Autozone's Duralast 94R-DLG. You could charge it but at the 10 year mark most batteries have reached their limit.

+1

[wsmeyer]

I guess it depends on how much of an inconvenience it's going to be for you when it dies.

Mine was down to 11.7V before the rpm's noticeably dropped in the mornings while starting.

Then again I doubt it's going to last another year so how long are you trying to stretch it?

[ELCID86]

Best to do it before winter (if you live in a cold climate).


Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.

[BMWCurves]

If your battery is 10 years old I would replace it before it leaves you stranded. I replaced my ZHP battery with Autozone's Duralast 94R-DLG. You could charge it but at the 10 year mark most batteries have reached their limit.

I guess it depends on how much of an inconvenience it's going to be for you when it dies.

Mine was down to 11.7V before the rpm's noticeably dropped in the mornings while starting.

Then again I doubt it's going to last another year so how long are you trying to stretch it?

Best to do it before winter (if you live in a cold climate).

Appreciate the advice, everyone, that's what I figured! I didn't plan to stretch it, just change it out at my convenience since it still seems to be working fine for the moment. I live in a relatively moderate climate (Portland), but it does dip below freezing in the winter. Now I guess I have to figure out which battery to get. WOLFN8R got the Duralast 94R-DLG which is my fallback plan, but is there any difference between that and the cheaper EverStart H8 battery from WalMart?

[WOLFN8TR]

Curious did you change those quotes, only the first one is mine. Reason I ask is this happened the other day in Charlie's thread.
If not it's a glitch.

EDIT: It must be Tapatalk, using my Mac it appears fine.



21475 21476

[ELCID86]

I've noticed that too.


Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.

[WOLFN8TR]

I think it's the Tapatalk app. See above...

[ELCID86]

I think it's the Tapatalk app. See above...

Appears to be TaT.


Thumbs, iPhone, TaT.

[BMWCurves]

Odd...I just hit "Reply With Quote" for each of your responses and copied and pasted them into one response. No alteration beyond removing the TaT signatures.

[WOLFN8TR]

Tapatalk it is then.

[BMWCurves]

Tapatalk it is then.

That's my guess.

Any advice on differences between the WalMart/EverStart H8 and the Duralast 94R-DLG?

[ecrabb]

Well, I had a big post with lots of great information all typed up, but accidentally dumped it all. Not doing it again. Summarizing this time...

My 04 ZHP with 43k miles on it is still on the original battery. Amazingly. It's not a DD, so I'm throwing it on a tender and leaving it until spring. We'll see if it makes it, but clearly it's number was up long ago.

My wife's '07 X3 with 44k miles on it also still has the original battery and is due. I've noted the starting getting just a little slower and more labored in the last couple of weeks as the weather cooled off. I wouldn't even mention it here, but the H8 mentioned above comes up on several searches. So, the H8 options are...

- Dealer quoted $221 *after* a 10% BMWCCA discount. Yeah, no.
- Duralast Platinum AGM at Autozone - $175
- Duralast Gold - $150'ish
- Duralast - $130'ish
- Walmart MAXX is $123
- Walmart Platinum AGM H8 is $139, but shows out of stock everywhere. H6 is a few bucks cheaper and also not available.
- Sears AGM was similar to Duralast Platinum - $170'ish
- NAPA AGM was $192

Looks like the AutoZone is about the best price on an AGM H8, and there's a store only a mile or so from home, so probably going that way. Hopefully I can find some kind of coupon or discount like brewer90 at the top of this page.

Cheers,
SC


EDIT - FWIW, both the Walmart and AutoZone "battery finders" show the H7 for the 330Ci (not the H8), which is significantly more expensive - $198. FYI.

[wsmeyer]

Well, I had a big post with lots of great information all typed up, but accidentally dumped it all. Not doing it again. Summarizing this time...

My 04 ZHP with 43k miles on it is still on the original battery. Amazingly. It's not a DD, so I'm throwing it on a tender and leaving it until spring. We'll see if it makes it, but clearly it's number was up long ago.

My wife's '07 X3 with 44k miles on it also still has the original battery and is due. I've noted the starting getting just a little slower and more labored in the last couple of weeks as the weather cooled off. I wouldn't even mention it here, but the H8 mentioned above comes up on several searches. So, the H8 options are...

- Dealer quoted $221 *after* a 10% BMWCCA discount. Yeah, no.
- Duralast Platinum AGM at Autozone - $175
- Duralast Gold - $150'ish
- Duralast - $130'ish
- Walmart MAXX is $123
- Walmart Platinum AGM H8 is $139, but shows out of stock everywhere. H6 is a few bucks cheaper and also not available.
- Sears AGM was similar to Duralast Platinum - $170'ish
- NAPA AGM was $192

Looks like the AutoZone is about the best price on an AGM H8, and there's a store only a mile or so from home, so probably going that way. Hopefully I can find some kind of coupon or discount like brewer90 at the top of this page.

Cheers,
SC


EDIT - FWIW, both the Walmart and AutoZone "battery finders" show the H7 for the 330Ci (not the H8), which is significantly more expensive - $198. FYI.

Can we use AGM batteries?

They don't charge the same as flooded so just wondering.

[wsmeyer]

More...

I have an X5 that came with an AGM battery. In NCS it has these settings:

KLASSE_BATTERIE:
46ah
55ah
70ah
80ah
90ah
110ah
40ah_agm
60ah_agm
70ah_agm
80ah_agm
90ah_agm

So apparently I could recode it and use a standard battery but since our cars didn't come with AGM I'm wondering if it would be damaged by incorrect charging.

[ecrabb]

Can we use AGM batteries?

They don't charge the same as flooded so just wondering.

Oh, man... I had no idea. I assumed they were AGM, and that was why they were a A) so expensive and B) lasted so long. I think the wife's X3 has an AGM in it, too which is probably why I went off on this tangent. Real OEM lists both for hers.

Sorry for the misdirection! Off to do some more reading!

SC

[KevinC]

Can we use AGM batteries?

They don't charge the same as flooded so just wondering.

Sure we can. I've had one in my car for 3 years. Here in Phoenix, with the brutal summer heat, you need all the help you can get to make a battery last more than a year or two. AGM, and the fact that our batteries are not in the engine compartment, makes for a decent lifespan.

I went with the Duralast AGM in my ZHP, but Consumer Reports had a ton of trouble with them last year, so when I replaced the one in my (now-departed) Z4M, I used Napa's solution. Ask for a AAA discount - it was 10 or 15%, and I didn't even have to show my card.

[ecrabb]

Sure we can. I've had one in my car for 3 years. Here in Phoenix, with the brutal summer heat, you need all the help you can get to make a battery last more than a year or two. AGM, and the fact that our batteries are not in the engine compartment, makes for a decent lifespan.
That make sense. One of the big target markets for Optima AGM batteries is the aftermarket upgrade crowd, so if you couldn't put them in cars that didn't originally ship with AGM, that market wouldn't even exist.

Of course, that calls into question the whole register/program thing with the newer cars. What is it doing? If it's changing the charge profile, then that implies that AGM batteries should be charged differently. It could be reconfiguring the monitoring and display of warnings, too. I know AGM batteries are more sensitive to charging, but in a bit of brief reading, it seems like over-voltage is the big concern, which shouldn't be a problem in an E46. This is all complete speculation on my part.


I went with the Duralast AGM in my ZHP, but Consumer Reports had a ton of trouble with them last year, so when I replaced the one in my (now-departed) Z4M, I used Napa's solution. Ask for a AAA discount - it was 10 or 15%, and I didn't even have to show my card.
Thanks for the tip! With the AAA discount, the NAPA battery should be priced comparably to the Duralast Platinum.

SC

[ecrabb]

Also, for what it's worth, realoem does show a bunch of the same battery part numbers for both my 04 ZHP and my wife's 07 E83 X3. Several are AGM, including this one:

61217553954 - AGM 90AH 900A - $246

If the AGM battery required special charging, then the E46 would need different alternator or voltage regulator parts I would think to change from one battery type to the other.

I hope we're not confusing anybody... I'm just kind of learning out loud here.

SC

[zYx]

I have Exide AGM battery in my '03 325ci for 5 years now, with one deep discharge and one "over charge" (regulator was pumping 16v) without any problems. My father has the same one in '03 530d for 3 years and is also very pleased with it. I suppose it is OK to say you will not have problems with AGM battery.

[dpark]

Old thread, but seems to be the main one for E46 batteries.

Replaced mine today. It was still an OE BMW battery from Exide.

Replaced it with a Costco Interstate battery. It was cheaper than anything else recommended on this site. Looked at Walmart, Autozone and Sears. $143 with a 42 month full replacement warranty.

Fully sealed battery so no need to connect the vent tube, which was not even connected to the existing battery!

Thanks to others on the site with the advice of getting out the tray cover. Was sure I was going to break it until I read how to pull back the internal side carpeting.

Took less than an hour start to finish. Literally the hardest part was getting out the tray. The rest was pretty easy. 4 bolts and 1 screw.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180730/df453eeac4cc0283a4127618bd6f11e3.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180730/8f0510ae693119df60349c9e76e336ca.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180730/8a036838c87a6326f5615a8b35e0003d.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180730/6182be0b7feb158ab718d9503f96b019.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180730/b71565309b12fd3739ed86bf60459ba3.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180730/34a644fa2af8307d814fa72a1496f2e1.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[John in VA]

Can't tell from any pix you included, but I wouldn't be surprised that there are small black plugs on the sides of the raised areas for you to attach the vent tube. Nice to see a non-maintenance-free battery with caps that allow you to check/add water.

[ZHPizza]

Can't tell from any pix you included, but I wouldn't be surprised that there are small black plugs on the sides of the raised areas for you to attach the vent tube. Nice to see a non-maintenance-free battery with caps that allow you to check/add water.Yeah that is definitely a vented battery. You can see that the included positive terminal cover has a little round plug to go into the side that is not connected to the vent tube.

OP you're gonna want to connect that tube else you're venting into the trunk/cabin area

[dpark]

Yeah that is definitely a vented battery. You can see that the included positive terminal cover has a little round plug to go into the side that is not connected to the vent tube.

OP you're gonna want to connect that tube else you're venting into the trunk/cabin area

John and zhpizza, thanks for the replies. This is why I love this forum. Lots of help based on folks' experience.

So I went into the trash and retrieved the original positive terminal cover and detached the red plug and put that into the vent on the negative side. Pulled the plug from the OE battery and stuck it in the positive side and reattached the vent tube.

That's 20 min if my life I won't get back due to my ignorance, but now it's done right. Still can't believe that the BMW dorks who put in the battery never attached the vent hose.

I guess it is fortunate that there weren't a lot of gasses expelled by the battery over the last 6 years since the compartment was pristine.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180730/2e21ea63e1e6b6ee006faf928507f634.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180730/6139cada194602a2f7f1658abf02714e.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180730/c040d99893d42c7d014a8f8fd169deec.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180730/37d3c548c5447824d66cf97c23b6bfc1.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ZHPizza]

@dpark awesome work. I don't remember what the issues are with not venting the battery outside of the car but I know they aren't good.

[dpark]

@dpark awesome work. I don't remember what the issues are with not venting the battery outside of the car but I know they aren't good.

It's just amazing what you do when you "don't know what you don't know". Worked at a gas station all through high school. I remember "topping off" batteries all the time with distilled water from a special dispensing canister that you just inserted the tip of the nozzle into the screw top opening of the cells. But never even heard of "venting" battery gases before this weekend. Would never have even noticed the ports on the side of the battery.

I am NOT a big fan of "government mandated" warning labels (don't have your child lean against the window screen, it will not prevent them falling out the window, no duh!), but in this case, it would seem that some sort of label to tell people that if installing the battery into a trunk instead of the engine compartment that it should be connected to a vent tube. And to block the other vent hole that isn't connected to the vent tube. If it really is that important, it certainly isn't intuitively obvious that this should be done.

Oh well, it's done now...