Coolant flush

[midlandtech]

Hey guys and gals,
Does anyone have a link to a coolant flush DIY? I am fairly confident that I know what I need to do but did not know if there were any tips or words of wisdom. I tried searching and checking through the DIY section but was unsuccessful.

Thanks ahead of time,

Steve

Nexus 7.... deal with it

[BCS_ZHP]

Here's a link to the complete cooling system refresh that I followed, the coolant drain part is up front and the coolant refill & bleeding procedure is at the end. Not to hard but getting to that engine block drain plug on the passenger side of the engine can be a PITA. When draining the block, expect to have coolant run down your arm all the way to your arm pit, wear an old shirt and as this will happen, you'll understand why it's important to do this when the engine and coolant are not hot.

http://www.bmw330ci.net/maintenance/completecoolant.php

[PsychoCemia]

Decent DIY. You might want to consider grabbing a 2ft length of flexible 1.5"-2" hose so that you can funnel the fluid from the engine block into a bucket. I did this the first time and it worked out well enough. Second time I drained I forgot and had fluid EVERYWHERE. Literally more fluid around the bucket than in it.

Also, WEAR GOGGLES! That shit burns. :P

Overall, it shouldn't take more than an hour.

- Ride up on ramps, engine off for remainder of operation
- Drain radiator
- Drain engine block
- Plug both
- Mix 2gallons of 50/50 BMW Coolant and distilled water (1gallon of each)
- Open bleeder screw on upper radiator hose
- Turn key to 1st position, fan on low, temp on highest (91?)
- Pour coolant mix into expansion tank (about 1.5 gallons total, I think)
- Every half gallon or so blow into the expansion tank (create a seal with your lips, watch out for coolant shooting into your eye from the bleeding screw!) This will force the coolant through all the lines, etc.
- Fill until you get coolant coming out of the bleeder screw
- Close up tank.
- Back down from ramps
- Check engine temp to make sure everything is fine
- For the next few days, just before driving (i.e. cold engine) turn the bleeder screw to let out any air bubbles and top off the coolant if necessary (again with the key at position 1, low air, and high temp setting)

Good luck!

[alexandre]

Don't you have to open heater to 91 while draining too, to clear out the heater core ?

[Bimmernut2]

Decent DIY. You might want to consider grabbing a 2ft length of flexible 1.5"-2" hose so that you can funnel the fluid from the engine block into a bucket. I did this the first time and it worked out well enough. Second time I drained I forgot and had fluid EVERYWHERE. Literally more fluid around the bucket than in it.

Also, WEAR GOGGLES! That shit burns. :P

Overall, it shouldn't take more than an hour.

- Ride up on ramps, engine off for remainder of operation
- Drain radiator
- Drain engine block
- Plug both
- Mix 2gallons of 50/50 BMW Coolant and distilled water (1gallon of each)
- Open bleeder screw on upper radiator hose
- Turn key to 1st position, fan on low, temp on highest (91?)
- Pour coolant mix into expansion tank (about 1.5 gallons total, I think)
- Every half gallon or so blow into the expansion tank (create a seal with your lips, watch out for coolant shooting into your eye from the bleeding screw!) This will force the coolant through all the lines, etc.
- Fill until you get coolant coming out of the bleeder screw
- Close up tank.
- Back down from ramps
- Check engine temp to make sure everything is fine
- For the next few days, just before driving (i.e. cold engine) turn the bleeder screw to let out any air bubbles and top off the coolant if necessary (again with the key at position 1, low air, and high temp setting)

Good luck!

Not sure I would use my mouth for this procedure. This stuff will kill your liver! Here's a trick I would do with ALL of my other Bimmers. Try to incline the car so that the front is a little higher than the back. This will allow gravity to assist the air to come out. After filling the radiator, try squeeze/pumping the upper rad. hose to force the coolant to push the air out, sort of like burping it. You'll see or hear it. Then fill & pump again. You need to repeat this several times. My indep. tech showed me this trick & it works very well to get those stubborn bubbles out. When you think you have all that will go in, start the car & as mentioned, turn the heat up as high as it will go. It also helps if you rev the engine up to about 2500 rpm's. This allows the water pump to push the water around with some force. Inevitably, there will be some air trapped/ stuck in the system, so continue to check coolant level & top off as needed. I would always carry some spare coolant in the truck 'just in case'. If you find the Eng temp going past 12 o'clock. Turn off the engine & try pumping the upper rad hose some more, because you have an air bubble blocking the system.

[Hermes]

Don't you have to open heater to 91 while draining too, to clear out the heater core ?

yes

[ryankokesh]

Does having it on an incline or ramps help get air out of the heater core? I think I messed that part up. :dunno

[Hermes]

I think a tilt would actually be a problem, I would think you want the car level

[ryankokesh]

It wouldn't help get air out of the heater core?


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