Checking clutch wear

[az3579]

Does anyone know how to check clutch wear on a ZHP? I don't want to be on the track one day and find out my clutch is slipping, so I'm looking to check it ahead of time.


Thanks,
BP


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[danewilson77]

Try to take off in 6th. If you go....clutch is good.

Sent from Corolla, NC USA = Party

[az3579]

Try to take off in 6th. If you go....clutch is good.

Sent from Corolla, NC USA = Party

Yeah, but for how long will it be good... that is what I'm trying to determine. Trying to decide if I have time to replace the clutch or if it needs to be done soon.
The car operates perfectly at this time; clutch is good at the moment. It's just a matter of how much is left on the fuse.

[danewilson77]

Yeah, but for how long will it be good... that is what I'm trying to determine. Trying to decide if I have time to replace the clutch or if it needs to be done soon.
The car operates perfectly at this time; clutch is good at the moment. It's just a matter of how much is left on the fuse.

Isn't that like asking, how long will the rings be good on your pistons? Too many factors involved.

Sent from Corolla, NC USA = Party

[az3579]

Isn't that like asking, how long will the rings be good on your pistons? Too many factors involved.

Sent from Corolla, NC USA = Party

Umm, no, not the same. I remember seeing somewhere that there might be a tool to check clutch wear on some older models, and was wondering if that would be the same for the E46.

Not finding any solid info on it on Google.

[danewilson77]

Umm, no, not the same. I remember seeing somewhere that there might be a tool to check clutch wear on some older models, and was wondering if that would be the same for the E46.

Not finding any solid info on it on Google.

Ahhh...got it. You made no mention of tool check In op....

Sent from Corolla, NC USA = Party

[nike001]

Take it out and look.


Other than that, there's no real checking.

[az3579]

Damn. So I take it there is no gauge or any quick way of checking unless it's taken out?
It sucks that the clutch or whatever it is, is self-adjusting. It will always grab in the same place, and there's no way to tell how worn the clutch is until it's too late. Well that friggin' sucks.

Thanks for the answers, guys. :(

[derbo]

Damn. So I take it there is no gauge or any quick way of checking unless it's taken out?
It sucks that the clutch or whatever it is, is self-adjusting. It will always grab in the same place, and there's no way to tell how worn the clutch is until it's too late. Well that friggin' sucks.

Thanks for the answers, guys. :(


A self adjusting clutch will only engage at the same place for so long before it maxes out. My clutch engagement point actually got higher when I decided to replace my clutch. When I removed it. It had 0.99mm left on the disc which is below the 1.0mm "servicable" limit. It was time. If your clutch is working fine at the moment, I wouldn't worry. I had a flywheel chatter on idle (worn out dual mass flywheel), and my release bearing was starting to make noise which is why I replace my clutch. I would personally replace the clutch when the gears start slipping if I didn't have any other issues.

[Rovert]

What was your mileage when you replaced Derbo?

[az3579]

What was your mileage when you replaced Derbo?

Going by mileage isn't really all that reliable. Different people get different mileages out of their clutches due to driving style. :(

I'm confident that if I had a brand new clutch, I'd get 200k out of it, it's just a matter of how the car was driven the first 76k of its life before I got it. =\

[Hornung418]

I would just plan to do it when you hit 150k. You're almost there, only issue is whether or not you can DIY it or have it at the shop. Long tasks like that really jack up the price.

Anything that doesn't require a BMW tool I would try to DIY.

Horney...via TT.

[derbo]

What was your mileage when you replaced Derbo?

My clutch was replaced at 112k. I had a few issues with my drivetrain that made me ultimately decide to replace my clutch. I had a flywheel chatter during idle that was intermittent. I also had a release bearing "whine" that was minimal but drove me crazy. The clutch engagement was also a little high due to previous owner. When I got my car I noticed my clutch was getting high at 72k and I milked it to 112k so I figured it was time to just replace it since I race.


B is right. We had a customer who didnt know how to drive a manual transmission and destroyed her Mini cooper's clutch in 8000 miles. When the transmission was removed, it looked like hair was thrown into the clutch assembly. Thats how much fiber off the clutch came off!

[az3579]

b is right. We had a customer who didnt know how to drive a manual transmission and destroyed her mini cooper's clutch in 8000 miles. When the transmission was removed, it looked like hair was thrown into the clutch assembly. Thats how much fiber off the clutch came off!

epic fail.
(what the heck, I can't do all caps??)

[echo46]

On a scale from one to ten, how hard is it to replace clutch and all necessaries?

[derbo]

On a scale from one to ten, how hard is it to replace clutch and all necessaries?

I would consider this a 6-8 depending on your access of tools and if you have a lift or not. It wasn't too bad on a lift with plenty of extensions and air tools. You will definitely need a hand with pulling the transmission and putting it back in.

[az3579]

Hmm. I would probably say don't even bother doing this if you don't have a lift. It's way too much of a pain. :(

[echo46]

That's right, you have to ill the transmission. That is a pain in the ass. I guess there is really no work around like when I changed my starter.

[Hornung418]

Although it was cramped when I did my Transmission mounts, I reckon that if I had the front on ramps and the rear jacked up, I could knock it out no problem.

[derbo]

Getting the top bolts off the transmission seem like a pain without a lift lol.


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[Hornung418]

Only because you have to tilt the transmission back, correct?

[derbo]

Yes. The removal of the transmission and reinstalling the transmission was already a little of a chore with a lift. I can't imagine trying to do it while lying down..

[Rovert]

So if I can start in 3rd without any feeling of clutch slipping...
if I can stall my car with the ebrake on and releasing the clutch in 3rd gear...
if I go WOT in 6th gear at 40MPH without the RPMs going up....

That means my clutch is perfectly fine? I have a clutch stop on my car and I think that the grab point has raised a bit compared to when I first installed the clutch stop but not excessively.

[telijah]

Long answer short: Yes.

For those attempting to DIY on the trans removal, just know you'll want a healthy supply of extensions and swivel bits for those top bolts. They are also e-torx I believe. AND, if I remember correctly, almost every friggin bolt mating the trans to the block were of different lengths, so keep track of it. I did not do it myself, but I was visiting the shop very frequently when they replaced mine. My clutch was still good, but the t/o bearing detonated itself. Here's a small photo set I took of mine being replaced (https://plus.google.com/photos/102101414697648222108/albums/5572976180507624385?authkey=CMiQlrDRpN2vfg). There's a few bonus shots of my idler pulley's outter race coming off, not sure how those made it in there. I went ahead and had them throw a new rear main seal as I was losing a quart of oil every 7500 mile oil change, and worth doing if you're taking the trans off anyways. Also had a new starter put in. I ordered a new OEM kit from rockauto.com for like, 250 or so shipped, included clutch disc, pressure plate, and t/o bearing... Sachs pressure plate and Luk disc.