SprintBooster button >> M3 SPORT Button mod doityourself

[cakM3]

Hey Guys,

This seems like a pretty cool mod that I would appreciate since I am a STEP. Could someone please verify the parts required for this retrofit? Correct me if I am wrong with my list.

1 x Sprintbooster
1 x SwitchBoard with Sport Button
1 x Green Led
1 x Red Led
1 x Wires for retrofit

Thanks.

Jay,

The wires you would use should be as thin as you can get since you will have a Sprint Booster with 4 wires instead of the 2 wires that I have on my ZHP. If I'm right, the manuals are the 2-wire version of Sprint Booster and step (auto) are the 4-wire version. Just a heads up.

The green LED's that are on the Sprint Booster will transfer onto the sport button w/o any difficulty. I've done this twice w/o any issues. It's the red LEDs that I keep having issues with so I got some extra ones on hand from Mouser Electronics. Here's a link for the red LEDs that you can use for your Sprint Booster mod :thumbsup

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/OSRAM-Opto-Semiconductors/LS-E6SF-V2BA-1-1-Z/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMurHQmwyojo5ETtEH1XTVp%2frVu%252bRUUg hWg%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/OSRAM-Opto-Semiconductors/LS-E6SF-V2BA-1-1-Z/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMurHQmwyojo5ETtEH1XTVp%2frVu%252bRUUg hWg%3d)

When you purchase Sprint Booster for your step, it will come with the Sprint Booster device you plug at the top of the accelerator pedal and switchboard that connects to it. Anyway, hope this helps you!

[johnrando]

And William posted the DIY way back on this thread. My SB only had the 2-wire so it was easier, and I didn't have to purchase LEDs.

[WOLFN8TR]

Excellent work Charlie! Sprint Booster Guru...:rockon
2 wire Sprint Boosters should be Manual version and 4 wire Auto. This has been debated before and gets confusing.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Sprint Booster Info:

"CLICK"
Sprint Booster V2 - (SBM10001S) - 6MT -2 wires (http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/SBBM0001S/ES2523983/)
Sprint Booster V2 - (SBBM0002S) - Auto - 4 wires (http://www.ecstuning.com/News/ES1896923/)

The BDD401 is suppose to be for a Manual and the BDD401A is for a Automatic BUT you can use either one apparently. My extensive research on this subject has found that one is just more sensitive than the other. Also Washburn has the BBD401A and he has a Auto but according to ECSTuning it's the Manual version and it works fine. Washburn and I looked into this in detail. We both have Auto's and his is the BDD401A (2 wire) and I have the BBD401 (4 wire) which both work on our Autos. The "A" after the model number mean Auto and also the one they recommend for the "M".

Found This Info:
They are cross-suitable. The Auto version simply is less sensitive than the manual version as there is no clutch control element to help you keep it under control.
However, the manufacture recommends fitting an auto SB to a manual car for any driver who finds the manual SB on a manual car a bit too crazy.
I have done the opposite and fitted a manual SB to my auto. I am used to SB's on my BMW's so I have no issue with controlling it. Alot of people have done the same with BMW's and Mercs from what I have seen on other forums.
I have never tried an auto SB, but from what the manufacturers themselves claim the auto version just gives less of an increase in sensitivity than the manual version. I guess this may translate to a slower reaction. What I do know is that the SB is quite a simple device, and so it is very hard to imagine it being "clever" enough to do anything other than alter the response time of the throttle.
It doesn't stop the box from changing at its set point, but as you know, our autos change later in the rev range the harder you are accelerating. So if you keep a light foot you will shift early and if you press hard you will change later. The SB doesn't change this (it can't) but as you are more likely to be under harder acceleration for less pedal travel with the SB, you will notice your shifts do come in later.

http://www.sprintbooster.it/doc/Sprint%20Booster%20Catalogue__02_13(July%202013).p df (http://www.sprintbooster.it/doc/Sprint%20Booster%20Catalogue__02_13(July%202013).p df)

This link shows the original version with "NO" mode button. There is no "S" after the model number. "S" = Selectable or Switch version.
http://www.jrponline.com/downloads/catalogs/sprintbooster.pdf (http://www.jrponline.com/downloads/catalogs/sprintbooster.pdf)

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/29/u9esa6eb.jpg

1. The compatibility of some parts may vary between different markets.
2. All parts ending with ' A ' (i.e. SBDD451A) are developed for use in Automatic & tiptronic transmission models (DSG…etc)
3. Manual versions (non 'A' versions) can only be installed in manual models.
4. In some early models the throttle connector is located in the engine bay
5. For Mercedes AMG , BMW M Series and highly tuned models we suggest the use of the Auto version
6. Switches are not universal. They will only work with the specific Sprint Booster in the box. Do not use the same switch in different Sprint Booster part numbers.

(FYI Mini Cooper is the same part number as the BMW's)
MINI COOPER 2002- ALL ENGINES SBDD401 / SBDD401A

[johnrando]

Interesting though, as I ordered the auto version and have only 2 wires.

[cakM3]

Gary, thanks for posting the information....very helpful for all of us - well done my friend!!!
:chuck

[WOLFN8TR]

Gary, thanks for posting the information....very helpful for all of us - well done my friend!!!
:chuck

Welcome...

[trancenation]

Can anyone confirm if other bmw sprint booster modules can fit E46?

[trancenation]

Jay,

The wires you would use should be as thin as you can get since you will have a Sprint Booster with 4 wires instead of the 2 wires that I have on my ZHP. If I'm right, the manuals are the 2-wire version of Sprint Booster and step (auto) are the 4-wire version. Just a heads up.

The green LED's that are on the Sprint Booster will transfer onto the sport button w/o any difficulty. I've done this twice w/o any issues. It's the red LEDs that I keep having issues with so I got some extra ones on hand from Mouser Electronics. Here's a link for the red LEDs that you can use for your Sprint Booster mod :thumbsup

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/OSRAM-Opto-Semiconductors/LS-E6SF-V2BA-1-1-Z/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMurHQmwyojo5ETtEH1XTVp%2frVu%252bRUUg hWg%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/OSRAM-Opto-Semiconductors/LS-E6SF-V2BA-1-1-Z/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMurHQmwyojo5ETtEH1XTVp%2frVu%252bRUUg hWg%3d)

When you purchase Sprint Booster for your step, it will come with the Sprint Booster device you plug at the top of the accelerator pedal and switchboard that connects to it. Anyway, hope this helps you!

Thanks for the clarification Charlie!

[cakM3]

Thanks for the clarification Charlie!

Not a problem Jay! :thumbsup BTW... take a look at Gary's post (#253)....there's lots of really good info concerning Sprint Booster for you! :)

[trancenation]

Thanks for the project information Gary! I just purchased my M3 center console buttons. Now to find a good deal on a Sprintbooster..


Excellent work Charlie! Sprint Booster Guru...:rockon
2 wire Sprint Boosters should be Manual version and 4 wire Auto. This has been debated before and gets confusing.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Sprint Booster Info:

"CLICK"
Sprint Booster V2 - (SBM10001S) - 6MT -2 wires (http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/SBBM0001S/ES2523983/)
Sprint Booster V2 - (SBBM0002S) - Auto - 4 wires (http://www.ecstuning.com/News/ES1896923/)

The BDD401 is suppose to be for a Manual and the BDD401A is for a Automatic BUT you can use either one apparently. My extensive research on this subject has found that one is just more sensitive than the other. Also Washburn has the BBD401A and he has a Auto but according to ECSTuning it's the Manual version and it works fine. Washburn and I looked into this in detail. We both have Auto's and his is the BDD401A (2 wire) and I have the BBD401 (4 wire) which both work on our Autos. The "A" after the model number mean Auto and also the one they recommend for the "M".

Found This Info:
They are cross-suitable. The Auto version simply is less sensitive than the manual version as there is no clutch control element to help you keep it under control.
However, the manufacture recommends fitting an auto SB to a manual car for any driver who finds the manual SB on a manual car a bit too crazy.
I have done the opposite and fitted a manual SB to my auto. I am used to SB's on my BMW's so I have no issue with controlling it. Alot of people have done the same with BMW's and Mercs from what I have seen on other forums.
I have never tried an auto SB, but from what the manufacturers themselves claim the auto version just gives less of an increase in sensitivity than the manual version. I guess this may translate to a slower reaction. What I do know is that the SB is quite a simple device, and so it is very hard to imagine it being "clever" enough to do anything other than alter the response time of the throttle.
It doesn't stop the box from changing at its set point, but as you know, our autos change later in the rev range the harder you are accelerating. So if you keep a light foot you will shift early and if you press hard you will change later. The SB doesn't change this (it can't) but as you are more likely to be under harder acceleration for less pedal travel with the SB, you will notice your shifts do come in later.

http://www.sprintbooster.it/doc/Sprint%20Booster%20Catalogue__02_13(July%202013).p df (http://www.sprintbooster.it/doc/Sprint%20Booster%20Catalogue__02_13(July%202013).p df)

http://pdf-world.net/pdf/135812/www.sprintboosterusa.com-pdf.php (http://pdf-world.net/pdf/135812/www.sprintboosterusa.com-pdf.php)

This link shows the original version with "NO" mode button. There is no "S" after the model number. "S" = Selectable or Switch version.
http://www.jrponline.com/downloads/catalogs/sprintbooster.pdf (http://www.jrponline.com/downloads/catalogs/sprintbooster.pdf)

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/29/u9esa6eb.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/29/ypu8a5as.jpg

[cakM3]

Jay, if anyone can find a great deal on a Sprint Booster, it will be Gary :thumbsup

[jayjay_dee]

nice video Charlie... and thanks for extending the help to the ZHP mafia family...

[WOLFN8TR]

Sprint Booster V2 for an Auto just listed on eBay for $200 "Buy it Now".
Not a smoking deal but reasonable.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sprint-booster-mint-condition-BMW-n54-automatic-/231024650564?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35ca246944&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sprint-booster-mint-condition-BMW-n54-automatic-/231024650564?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35ca246944&vxp=mtr)

9666

[trancenation]

that appears to be for the N54

[WOLFN8TR]

that appears to be for the N54

It appears as long as its not a X Series it should work. The N54 is a 335 correct? The guy doesn't have a SB part number listed.

[trancenation]

So should this work with our cars? If so, I'd probably go for it.

[trancenation]

Ok. I confirmed the part numbers with the N54 and M54 and they appear to be the same. I can kind of see the part number on the box and I can make out 0002S clearly. Anyhow this item is sold.................to me!

Thanks Gary for the find! I saw this post earlier but it wasn't until you posted it that I was eager enough to see if they fit the E46.

[WOLFN8TR]

Awesome man! The numbers you seen should be good then. I sent the guy a message asking for the part number but no reply. Congrats you will love it!

[johnrando]

Soon another satisfied SB owner!

[cakM3]

nice video Charlie... and thanks for extending the help to the ZHP mafia family...

No problem jayjay! Now to get yours modded...honestly, I kinda liked being the only one on the East Coast with this mod, but then I feel great helping others to realize this mod on their cars.....

Dane, when are you getting yours so I can help you :)?

A very huge thanks goes out to Gary for looking out for all of us concerning Sprint Booster :thumbsup

[danewilson77]

No problem jayjay! Now to get yours modded...honestly, I kinda liked being the only one on the East Coast with this mod, but then I feel great helping others to realize this mod on their cars.....

Dane, when are you getting yours so I can help you :)?

A very huge thanks goes out to Gary for looking out for all of us concerning Sprint Booster :thumbsup

Slowing down on the $$$ aspect here so close to retirement. My budget and pay are going to be.....well....different, so I'm playing it safe especially considering I may be moving. I have a phone interview for a Plant Maintenance Manager position today at 3:30. Located in Chicago area.

[328ioc]

Slowing down on the $$$ aspect here so close to retirement. My budget and pay are going to be.....well....different, so I'm playing it safe especially considering I may be moving. I have a phone interview for a Plant Maintenance Manager position today at 3:30. Located in Chicago area.

This is news to me and this makes me sad.........

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2

[fredo]

This is news to me and this makes me sad.........

+1. Does this mean the ZHP Mafia annual meeting is at risk ? J/K ... but not really. Dane, GL on your interview. Please keep us posted.

[jayjay_dee]

I have a phone interview for a Plant Maintenance Manager position today at 3:30. Located in Chicago area.

wow, good luck DW!!!

Next year's zhp mafia reunion will be in Chicago!!! lol...

[cakM3]

Slowing down on the $$$ aspect here so close to retirement. My budget and pay are going to be.....well....different, so I'm playing it safe especially considering I may be moving. I have a phone interview for a Plant Maintenance Manager position today at 3:30. Located in Chicago area.

copy.

Good luck on your job prospects Dane. If you land this job, you'll love Chicago! I grew up there. Seth and his crew will welcome you Mafia style I'm sure! :thumbsup

[danewilson77]

Thanks fellas. Just so we're all clear, my intentions are to stay where I'm at.

Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk 2

[WOLFN8TR]

In Viginia or the Mafia Owner?

[danewilson77]

Thanks fellas. Just so we're all clear, my intentions are to stay where I'm at.

Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk 2

Both.

Interview successfully knocked out of the park. We'll see where this goes.

[johnrando]

Very cool, keep us posted.

[cakM3]

Today we have another member who has this mod integrated into his ZHP :thumbsup I feel very privileged to have helped him realize this mod :) Clearly one of the "most fun to use" mods I have ever done! His voicemail said it all and made my day! :biggrin Dr. Sprint Booster to the rescue!
:chuck

[johnrando]

LOL, I'm glad you like your new nickname Charlie, er, Dr. Sprint Booster. :)

@Dev, great mod, isn't it? Jay Jay up next!

[WOLFN8TR]

Dr. S Booster.

[cakM3]

or just Dr. S.B. :)

[328ioc]

LOL, I'm glad you like your new nickname Charlie, er, Dr. Sprint Booster. :)

@Dev, great mod, isn't it? Jay Jay up next!

The mod is amazing. I am one step closer to the perfect ZHP.

Charlie is a great friend and a great forum member. I cant thank him enough for helping me with this.

Will add pics later today.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2

[WOLFN8TR]

Why they no believe it good until they try it?? Congrats!

[jayjay_dee]

LOL, I'm glad you like your new nickname Charlie, er, Dr. Sprint Booster. :)

@Dev, great mod, isn't it? Jay Jay up next!

JR, im currently in constant contact with Dr. S.B., cant wait to get this thing done... lol...

[trancenation]

I'm on the same boat as you jayjay!


JR, im currently in constant contact with Dr. S.B., cant wait to get this thing done... lol...

[cakM3]

JR, im currently in constant contact with Dr. S.B., cant wait to get this thing done... lol...

jayjay....sent you PM sir :thumbsup

[328ioc]

BOOM!!!

9690

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2

[rguti153]

Awsome

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2

[bimmergofast]

Oh, that's just sweet. Commence trolling ebay...

[wsmeyer]

BOOM!!!

9690


Looks good!

[328ioc]

Oh, that's just sweet. Commence trolling ebay...

It took a while but I did find both items on the bay.

Good luck with your search.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2

[cakM3]

Devlin, looks awesome! Glad to hear everything is working perfectly! You never know how those carriers treat packages. :) Nice to see another satisfied Mafia member :thumbsup

[johnrando]

Looking forward to transcend... and jayjay updates. And again, a big thanks to William for actually figuring out how to do this.

[cakM3]

... And again, a big thanks to William for actually figuring out how to do this.

+1


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[trancenation]

Looking good sir! Did you also hook up that TPMS?


BOOM!!!

9690

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2

[wsmeyer]

And again, a big thanks to William for actually figuring out how to do this.

My pleasure. If there are any other mods that people are dreaming of I'll be glad to try and figure them out. I know Joop was working on an all window button for sedan's but I think he has (temporarily) lost interest with his toying with the idea of selling it.

[JupiterBMW]

My pleasure. If there are any other mods that people are dreaming of I'll be glad to try and figure them out. I know Joop was working on an all window button for sedan's but I think he has (temporarily) lost interest with his toying with the idea of selling it.

Didn't lose interest, just ran into some snags with wiring and never got back to it. Life gets in the way fairly quickly... And now I'm at work, so no car stuff for me for a few months...

[johnrando]

My pleasure. If there are any other mods that people are dreaming of I'll be glad to try and figure them out. I know Joop was working on an all window button for sedan's but I think he has (temporarily) lost interest with his toying with the idea of selling it.

Can you help mod my iPod? :) Bought a new disk drive and battery for it and it doesn't work. :(

[WOLFN8TR]

Bump...

[328ioc]

This reminds me mine is busted. Need to trouble shoot when I get my car back.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[wsmeyer]

Bump...

Did you install yours yet... Oh wait... Package on its way!

[WOLFN8TR]

Did you install yours yet... Oh wait... Package on its way!

I will be soon thanks to you William! :thumbup

[WOLFN8TR]

Met up with John on Sunday. He brought up my Sprint Booster Mod William did for me. I have a 4 wire button on my Sprint Booster which made it difficult soldering all those wires onto the new switch. William did an outstanding job! Got it installed today and it works great! Thanks William! :thumbup

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/25/gamu9a6e.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/25/9ygubuty.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/25/a7age8a5.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/25/e9upyge4.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/25/uzepy5ug.jpg

[wsmeyer]

This is the second one I've done with no way to test so I'm totally stoked that it worked. After doing yours I would highly recommend NOT getting a 4 wire one if at all possible. Having to route 6 wires instead of just 3 makes fitting them all into the button much more difficult.

[WOLFN8TR]

This is the second one I've done with no way to test so I'm totally stoked that it worked. After doing yours I would highly recommend NOT getting a 4 wire one if at all possible. Having to route 6 wires instead of just 3 makes fitting them all into the button much more difficult.

Ya that's exactly what I was thinking also. Easier to go the 2 wire route fo sho.

Thanks again William...

[rguti153]

So can u do me a set?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2

[johnrando]

Slammed at our Partner Conf here but great to see Gary even for a short time, and deliver a WORKING SB, great work William!

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2

[danewilson77]

Clutch Johnny.

[PirateZHP]

Off subject: Dane, beautiful pic in the sig!

[gmurphy]

Off subject: Dane, beautiful pic in the sig!

+1


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[danewilson77]

Thanks boys. All the credit goes to the Godfather himself, Mark Handy, owner/operator/photographer @ PeerlessFineArt.com

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[WOLFN8TR]

Bump for a Sweet Mod...:roundel

[rguti153]

I want to do this but I know for sure ill fuck up something , ill pay if somebody does it for me

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[WOLFN8TR]

I want to do this but I know for sure ill fuck up something , ill pay if somebody does it for me.

If you get a Sprint Booster make sure it's a TWO wire not a FOUR wire, four wires are a Beouch to soldier onto the new control panel. Charlie or William are the SBSM guys to ask.

[rguti153]

How wpuld I know which is which

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[WOLFN8TR]

How would I know which is which

Look at the wiring at the White plug for the Mod button.


Sprint Booster Info:
2 wire Sprint Boosters should be Manual version and 4 wire Auto. This has been debated before and gets confusing.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Sprint Booster Info:

"CLICK"
Sprint Booster V2 - (SBM10001S) - 6MT -2 wires (http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/SBBM0001S/ES2523983/)
Sprint Booster V2 - (SBBM0002S) - Auto - 4 wires (http://www.ecstuning.com/News/ES1896923/)

The BDD401 is suppose to be for a Manual and the BDD401A is for a Automatic BUT you can use either one apparently. My extensive research on this subject has found that one is just more sensitive than the other. Also Washburn has the BBD401A and he has a Auto but according to ECSTuning it's the Manual version and it works fine. Washburn and I looked into this in detail. We both have Auto's and his is the BDD401A (2 wire) and I have the BBD401 (4 wire) which both work on our Autos. The "A" after the model number mean Auto and also the one they recommend for the "M".

Found This Info:
They are cross-suitable. The Auto version simply is less sensitive than the manual version as there is no clutch control element to help you keep it under control.
However, the manufacture recommends fitting an auto SB to a manual car for any driver who finds the manual SB on a manual car a bit too crazy.
I have done the opposite and fitted a manual SB to my auto. I am used to SB's on my BMW's so I have no issue with controlling it. Alot of people have done the same with BMW's and Mercs from what I have seen on other forums.
I have never tried an auto SB, but from what the manufacturers themselves claim the auto version just gives less of an increase in sensitivity than the manual version. I guess this may translate to a slower reaction. What I do know is that the SB is quite a simple device, and so it is very hard to imagine it being "clever" enough to do anything other than alter the response time of the throttle.
It doesn't stop the box from changing at its set point, but as you know, our autos change later in the rev range the harder you are accelerating. So if you keep a light foot you will shift early and if you press hard you will change later. The SB doesn't change this (it can't) but as you are more likely to be under harder acceleration for less pedal travel with the SB, you will notice your shifts do come in later.

http://www.sprintbooster.it/doc/Sprint%20Booster%20Catalogue__02_13(July%202013).p df (http://www.sprintbooster.it/doc/Sprint%20Booster%20Catalogue__02_13(July%202013).p df)

This link shows the original version with "NO" mode button. There is no "S" after the model number. "S" = Selectable or Switch version.
http://www.jrponline.com/downloads/catalogs/sprintbooster.pdf (http://www.jrponline.com/downloads/catalogs/sprintbooster.pdf)

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/29/u9esa6eb.jpg

1. The compatibility of some parts may vary between different markets.
2. All parts ending with ' A ' (i.e. SBDD451A) are developed for use in Automatic & tiptronic transmission models (DSG…etc)
3. Manual versions (non 'A' versions) can only be installed in manual models.
4. In some early models the throttle connector is located in the engine bay
5. For Mercedes AMG , BMW M Series and highly tuned models we suggest the use of the Auto version
6. Switches are not universal. They will only work with the specific Sprint Booster in the box. Do not use the same switch in different Sprint Booster part numbers.

(FYI Mini Cooper is the same part number as the BMW's)
MINI COOPER 2002- ALL ENGINES SBDD401 / SBDD401A

[rguti153]

Out in about , read this later thanks

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[johnrando]

Good detail Gary.

[rguti153]

So.who gonna help get this done

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[WOLFN8TR]

Good detail Gary.

Thanks, I saved that back when we were all doing Sprint Boosters.

[Pip]

Do the sport buttons just pop out the front with a little prying? Thinking of trying something tomorrow.

[WOLFN8TR]

Nope. You have to remove the shift knob and bezel. Then the ash tray and radio bracket. The console button is held on by two screws on the backside of the radio bracket.

[ELCID86]

Nope. You have to remove the shift knob and bezel. Then the ash tray and radio bracket. The console button is held on by two screws on the backside of the radio bracket.

Yeah, it's more work than it should be to get to them.


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

[johnrando]

But it's not hard

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[ELCID86]

But it's not hard

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

V/true


Thumbs, iPhone, Tapatalk.

[rguti153]

Soldering of leds are

[johnrando]

Yup. William did mine.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[Pip]

Thanks! Shouldn't be too hard to get to since I have a nav, but what I'm trying to do might be a little harder.

[WOLFN8TR]

Hey Sean at least you don't have Step or SMG, the Manual knob is a breeze compared to removing those. I tried removing my SMG knob yesterday and could not get that sucker off!!

[cakM3]

Thanks! Shouldn't be too hard to get to since I have a nav, but what I'm trying to do might be a little harder.

Sean, if you don't mind... can you document how you're doing yours? I might want to put my Sprint Booster mod into my HK button as I no longer have an HK Amp for this button to work.

[Pip]

Sean, if you don't mind... can you document how you're doing yours? I might want to put my Sprint Booster mod into my HK button as I no longer have an HK Amp for this button to work.
Charlie I'll document but it is simply the same as the sport button. The buttons look identical when looking at the bare PCB. I had trouble with mine because I was trying to piggy back on the old circuit board and it didn't like it. I'll document elsewhere once I get the car buttoned up.

[cakM3]

Charlie I'll document but it is simply the same as the sport button. The buttons look identical when looking at the bare PCB. I had trouble with mine because I was trying to piggy back on the old circuit board and it didn't like it. I'll document elsewhere once I get the car buttoned up.

Since my stereo upgrade in essence deleted the hk button, this is the ideal place for me to do my Sprint Booster mod on my ///M. Since you have put out it is pretty much the same as doing the sport button mod, I will most likely look at doing this mod sometime in the summer months when it's warmer...

[Pip]

Since my stereo upgrade in essence deleted the hk button, this is the ideal place for me to do my Sprint Booster mod on my ///M. Since you have put out it is pretty much the same as doing the sport button mod, I will most likely look at doing this mod sometime in the summer months when it's warmer...
It will be identical which is nice

[coby1]

this is for the single button guys lol
items needed for not so sporty-sprint sport button mod
1- sprint booster
2- heated seat switch
3- tape (always a southern favorite)
4- matte black vinyl
step # 1-take heated switch- take booster switch tape together
step # 2 -insert into console
step 2 a. put matte black vinyl onto heated seat switch to cover seat logo
step 2 b. suppress any and all memory of taping switches together and insert thoughts of oem factory option

the heated seat toggle/ sprint button and led window line up perfect push the button it clicks the booster button

[danewilson77]

Me likey. Ingenious.

"No flamesuit required"

[Sockethead]

Hmm I wonder if that would work with the sport switch too...That would save a lot of tedious soldering and glueing

[WOLFN8TR]

Sweet!!

[rguti153]

this is for the single button guys lol
items needed for not so sporty-sprint sport button mod
1- sprint booster
2- heated seat switch
3- tape (always a southern favorite)
4- matte black vinyl
step # 1-take heated switch- take booster switch tape together
step # 2 -insert into console
step 2 a. put matte black vinyl onto heated seat switch to cover seat logo
step 2 b. suppress any and all memory of taping switches together and insert thoughts of oem factory option

the heated seat toggle/ sprint button and led window line up perfect push the button it clicks the booster button
I'm not grasping what u did here , u remove the cover from sprint booster n put it inside the heated seat cover ? ??

[Sockethead]

Ahh I just noticed that you must have an early 325? You only have 5 buttons and they're bigger....

[johnrando]

Me likey. Ingenious.

"No flamesuit required"

+1

[coby1]

I'm not grasping what u did here , u remove the cover from sprint booster n put it inside the heated seat cover ? ??

did not do anything to the sprint button, the heated switch "unit" i just removed the electronic's/housing (threw away)and just used the front trim part -taped the complete sprint button to the backside and snapped it into the console and it was good to go(does not have sport on it) but overall better look than a random button stuck to the side of the console etc.

[rguti153]

Gotcha

[danewilson77]

did not do anything to the sprint button, the heated switch "unit" i just removed the electronic's/housing (threw away)and just used the front trim part -taped the complete sprint button to the backside and snapped it into the console and it was good to go(does not have sport on it) but overall better look than a random button stuck to the side of the console etc.
So...you no longer have a heated seat on that side, correct?

"No flamesuit required"

[coby1]

The m3 seats are heated but car is not wired for it (have switches) just need the the time/motivation to retrofit wiring to the fuse box etc.

[UdubBadger]

Nice Mike!


GoingHAM mobile

[TxCracker2316]

So damn nice. All I need to find is a sport button, tho my soldering skills are poop compared to yours.

[TLL0003]

Let's see if anyone who has done this mod can help me out. I have soldered the board exactly as shown in the DIY, but when I install it in my car both the green and red LED flash together. I have a meter and confirmed the LEDs and button both function correctly. Anyone have an idea what I could have done wrong. Have I messed up the sprint booster board? Thanks for any suggestions

[Sockethead]

Are you sure none of your solder joints are bridged? It doesn't take much...

[TLL0003]

I've bridged the positive sides(top) of the two LEDs. I also bridged between the left side of the button and the negative (bottom) of the red LED. What bridge would cause both lights to flash when plugged in? I have a diode tester and can get the green LED to light up on its own, but can not get the red LED to light up without the green on as well.

[Sockethead]

if you have everything wired right, then the obvious would be something is bridged that shouldn't be, something isn't soldered correctly (open circuit, bad ground) or perhaps the polarity on the red diode is reversed...

[wsmeyer]

Hey Taylor, I just saw your PM as well as this. I think the only way we might be able to help trouble shoot this remotely is if you can take pictures of the pieces so we can try and spot what went wrong.

I also think an errant soldier bridge is the most likely problem but without seeing it it's hard to say.

[TLL0003]

if you have everything wired right, then the obvious would be something is bridged that shouldn't be, something isn't soldered correctly (open circuit, bad ground) or perhaps the polarity on the red diode is reversed...

If the polarity on the red diode is reversed, wouldn't it not light up at all? The positive sides of each the red and green diode are facing the top of the board. Is this incorrect? I will take some pictures later today and see if we can make sense of what's going on. Thanks!

[Sockethead]

I haven't looked at the schematic for this mod in a long time... It's possible the LED is being back fed from the other LED and that's why it only lights up with the other one...?

[TLL0003]

I haven't looked at the schematic for this mod in a long time... It's possible the LED is being back fed from the other LED and that's why it only lights up with the other one...?

I'm not really sure what that means, but should the positive side of the green diode be facing the opposite side as the red diode?

[Sockethead]

I'm not really sure what that means, but should the positive side of the green diode be facing the opposite side as the red diode?
No they should both be facing the same way

[wsmeyer]

It's been a long time but I thought the two LED's faced opposite directions so that when the polarity is one direction one lights and when reversed the other lights.

You have a two wire button right?

[Sockethead]

I haven't looked at the pictures... I probably should, I don't want to give out the wrong info

[TLL0003]

23077

That's the best picture I can get right now

[TLL0003]

Update: reversed the polarity on the red LED so positive green is up and positive red is down. Seems to work great, green on first, red on second BUT now the green LED flashes very dimly when it should be off... So any ideas on that?

[wsmeyer]

They both might be reversed now and the tiny voltage when it's in the OFF mode that was supposed to be stopped by the zener diode is now lighting the green.

[TLL0003]

They both might be reversed now and the tiny voltage when it's in the OFF mode that was supposed to be stopped by the zener diode is now lighting the green.

How confident are you on that? I plugged it into the car and it cycled through off, then green, the red and actually worked! At this point I'm not opposed to resoldering/flipping the lights. The only issue is the slight flashing of the green but honesty that bothers be enough to switch it.

[wsmeyer]

Not very lol.

Do the colors correspond to the correct modes?

[Sockethead]

I have my switch apart but never got around to de-soldering it... one of those spring projects I never got around to finishing... anyway, if you need me to test something on the original switch let me know. the stuff is at work but I can test Monday

[wsmeyer]

A picture close enough and clear enough that we can see the direction of the LED's on the original button would help tremendously.

[wsmeyer]

Here's my train of thought, which is based on messing with this 3 years ago so it might be completely wrong.

There's two wires going to the button that has 3 modes. Two is easy. Wire the LED's in parallel and reverse the directions. When the electricity flows one way, one lights up. Reverse the + / - on the wires so the electricity flows the other direction and the other LED lights.

The third position, off can't be 0V because if it was there wouldn't be any simple way to tell when the button was pushed. The red cylindrical component on the button board is a Zener Diode: Zener Diode (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zener_diode). So the off V is just below the knee of the Zener and neither LED lights but depressing the button still signals the unit to change modes.

If that's what is going on, reversing BOTH LED's would result in RED=SPORT and GREEN-RACE, and the tiny V in OFF would be floating through one of the LED's and since it's not quite enough to turn the LED on it causes it to flash.

[Sockethead]

Ok will do. I'll post Monday late morning. I have a macro lens for my phone so I should be able to get pretty close

[TLL0003]

Here's my train of thought, which is based on messing with this 3 years ago so it might be completely wrong.

There's two wires going to the button that has 3 modes. Two is easy. Wire the LED's in parallel and reverse the directions. When the electricity flows one way, one lights up. Reverse the + / - on the wires so the electricity flows the other direction and the other LED lights.

The third position, off can't be 0V because if it was there wouldn't be any simple way to tell when the button was pushed. The red cylindrical component on the button board is a Zener Diode: Zener Diode (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zener_diode). So the off V is just below the knee of the Zener and neither LED lights but depressing the button still signals the unit to change modes.

If that's what is going on, reversing BOTH LED's would result in RED=SPORT and GREEN-RACE, and the tiny V in OFF would be floating through one of the LED's and since it's not quite enough to turn the LED on it causes it to flash.

So is there a way to fix it so the green doesn't flash when it should be off? I'm learning as I go here and don't know a ton about circuit boards honestly. As I have it wired now, green =sport and red=race.

[TLL0003]

23098

Here is the best picture I can get. At this point, the board has been through a lot after removing and reattaching the LEDs and button over and over. It's seen better days but still works haha. Would it be possible to use one of the other buttons(like the DSC) as a new board for the sport? It may not be worth doing now since this one works, but I could make it look better at this point.

[TLL0003]

https://vimeo.com/149552753

May not be of any help, but here is a video of what I'm referring to

[Sockethead]

Here's a close up of the original button...

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/21/47e4090f7f23020c394d921f902a3e4e.jpg

[wsmeyer]

That board for that button is different than the one I modded. You would not be able to use just 3 wires with that one. How many wires from that button to Sprint Booster?

[TLL0003]

23131

Mine looked exactly like this from the first post of this thread

[Sockethead]

That board for that button is different than the one I modded. You would not be able to use just 3 wires with that one. How many wires from that button to Sprint Booster?

2 wires to sprint booster.

[TLL0003]

231852318623187
I ended up getting everything installed and it all works well. The green still dimly flashes when off but it's hardly noticeable. Really like to stock look and love how it makes the car drive!

[Sockethead]

Awesome! I'm glad it worked out in the end

[TLL0003]

Now I just have to get my TPMS working...

[Sockethead]

Lol there's a thread for that too

[TLL0003]

I've got the wire run and the programming supposedly don't but nothing happens when I press the button... Still some work to do there

[TomTomTuning]

I'm finally about to do this mod, and I had a quick questions.

I hate the idea of having a useless button in my switch panel (RDC Tire Pressure).
Are the switches themselves interchangeable?
I was hopping I could buy two panels, and retrofit a Sport button into a slot that either had RDC or Hill Descent Control.

Thoughts?

[BADCLOWN]

I need to find this button panel myself

[TLL0003]

I'm finally about to do this mod, and I had a quick questions.

I hate the idea of having a useless button in my switch panel (RDC Tire Pressure).
Are the switches themselves interchangeable?
I was hopping I could buy two panels, and retrofit a Sport button into a slot that either had RDC or Hill Descent Control.

Thoughts?

As far as I know, the switches are not interchangeable and this won't work. Someone correct me if I'm wrong

[WOLFN8TR]

I need to find this button panel myself

Try eBay.

Here is one!
https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/171967005976

25264

[BADCLOWN]

I did see that one, very cheap. I like this one better because I could swap in my HK audio button but it's much more expensive


https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/281854104023

[TomTomTuning]

Yeah, mine was $60 shipped. Pretty good price.

Once it arrives, I'll determine if the switches are interchangeable.

[BADCLOWN]

I need to know if they are swappable as there are a few different configuration of sport button panels from M cars, some of which have too many buttons

[wsmeyer]

I'm really not sure if they are swappable or not. If you look at the picture of the inside of a switch in my my first post, the resistor J1 can be in one of 3 places. I never looked into what the purpose of this was. My guess the function has to do with that AND position of the button and it may be possible to change that with coding.

[Sockethead]

Although the button themselves are physically interchangeable, there is some logic on the board so I don't think it will function.

In this pick of my M3 button assy you can see the connectors are identical.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160331/6f82f95ac89c9d0a1a3b85ae1655a04a.jpg

This is a pic of the blank spot with no button. As you can see, there isn't even a connector present. In addition you can see a few chips inside the unit (logic)

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160331/7feec93f0a41c41fdc37db96f5a2fb67.jpg

[BADCLOWN]

Sounds like I'll just have to find a console configuration with the sport button that best suits my needs and probably deal with one button that won't be functional/applicable to the car

[Sockethead]

All of the face plates are the same except where the blanks are. You could possibly mix and match although it would be pretty hard to cut a hole in the face plate for a switch and have to look right, it would be easy if the blanks were in the right spots. It would just be a matter of removing the switches you don't need...

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160331/4fd77ffef065ce047cac9de2ac627ef3.jpg

[Sockethead]

BTW, I'm probably not going to put mine in for another month or two so if you guys need any more pictures, let me know

[TomTomTuning]

Sounds like I'll just have to find a console configuration with the sport button that best suits my needs and probably deal with one button that won't be functional/applicable to the car
Yeah, thats probably what I'll end up with. The M3 panel is the only one that works. I need the following buttons:



1) Heated Seat
Driver


2) DSC
Dynamic Stability Control


3) Spatial Surround
HK Premium Sound


4) RDC
Tire Pressure Control Not Used


5) Sport Suspension Mode
Sprint Booster


6) Heated Seat
Passenger



But RDC obviously won't be used, oh well. :(

[BADCLOWN]

That's what I need as well

[TomTomTuning]

I completed the mod this afternoon. So much nicer than having the button velcro to my console. My only issue with it, the LEDs are brighter than the OEM lights. However, I can deal with that lol.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160414/680671384b0e9ef6d7f7d91dfe577f65.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160414/e9abf66e599d48c08efbdd4878dd636a.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160414/0d7fcee9dbae19b555c156f255c243b2.jpg


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[BMWCurves]

Awesome! Makes me want to get a Sprint Booster for this...

[rguti153]

Nice

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[cakM3]

Awesome! Makes me want to get a Sprint Booster for this...

that's why I have Sprint Booster in my ZHP William :)

[TomTomTuning]

I've had the sprint booster for over a year now, absolute love it. I hate driving the car with it disabled.

The mod wasn't too difficult, but not for the novice. You'll need a decent soldering iron and the needed supplies (wires, solder, glue, etc.)

Just some tips:
I had to melt a bit of the plastic cage the board sits in, to accommodate the wires but no big deal.
I also had to to de-pin then re-pin the small white clip on the end of the sprint booster cable. This was so I could slip it through the back vent of the console panel.
If you remember to slip the wires through ahead of time, you won't need to do this step.

[WOLFN8TR]

Nice Tom! Loved my SB in my ZHP as well.

[wsmeyer]

Great job Tom!

:thumbup

[BADCLOWN]

Looks dang good. My sport button strip shows up tomorrow

[danewilson77]

Great job Tom!

:thumbup
+1

Sent from an S6 Edge

[WOLFN8TR]

Looks dang good. My sport button strip shows up tomorrow

Nice!! You will love this Mod!!

[Johnmadd]

Just installed the sport button strip and routed the wire, how do I open up the box under the pedal to install the actual sprint booster?

[Sockethead]

there a tab between the pedal and the floor. you have to push that tab down and slide the pedal assembly off of it, away from the transmission tunnel.
Be careful, I broke mine... it's the typical shitty BMW plastic.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160624/5a880d5fff9992c14641deb9c243857c.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160624/412eab030436e8da04e11b6a60f3c9fd.jpg

[Johnmadd]

there a tab between the pedal and the floor. you have to lift that tab down and slide the pedal assembly off of it, away from the transmission tunnel.
Be careful, I broke mine... it's the typical shitty BMW plastic.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160624/5a880d5fff9992c14641deb9c243857c.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160624/412eab030436e8da04e11b6a60f3c9fd.jpg

Thanks Rob, I'll give it a shot!

[Johnmadd]

If I break it can it still be driven?

[rguti153]

when u put in a flat head screw driver put it all the way to the top then press down n pull towards the cluth direction n it should slide out , is bitch to take off

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[WOLFN8TR]

If I break it can it still be driven?

Yes, I drove my car for months before replacing it. Honestly I don't think it's all that big of a deal if you don't replace it. It's on there pretty tight without the tab. Use a thin flat blade screwdriver and slide it all the way in on the top then wiggle off the pedal pulling it towards you. It slides on a rail at the bottom.

[Sockethead]

I used a sheet metal screw into the white plastic to hold it in place. I ordered the new piece but never got around to putting it in

[fredo]

Oh, so that's why you had it handy for pics ! :rofl

[Johnmadd]

Install finished, thanks for the help guys :thumbsup

[Sockethead]

Oh, so that's why you had it handy for pics ! :rofl

Yep haha! ;)

[johnrando]

Btw, those are like $7 if you want a new one

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[rcaso26]

If anyone is like me and didn't want to break both the button panel and the sprint booster by trying to solder the wires themselves, I used a guy named Jason Mann, he did really good work. See attached pictures. If anyone is interested in having the wiring done, shoot Jason an email at aztuxmann@gmail.com. I will post additional pics of the button panel installed as soon as I do it.2658426585265862658726588

[rguti153]

If anyone is like me and didn't want to break both the button panel and the sprint booster by trying to solder the wires themselves, I used a guy named Jason Mann, he did really good work. See attached pictures. If anyone is interested in having the wiring done, shoot Jason an email at aztuxmann@gmail.com. I will post additional pics of the button panel installed as soon as I do it.2658426585265862658726588
Nice how much did he charge u

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[Sockethead]

I'm glad that guy worked out for you, Ryan. Let us know how you like it when you get it all in place.

[rcaso26]

He charged me $75.00.

[Sockethead]

Yikes...I thought it was $50.. still $75 is worth it for that tedious work

[rcaso26]

Just installed the sprint booster sport button mod! What a difference. Took a total of 2 hours for the install. I had to take out pretty much every single thing on my dash to get to the button panel because I have a dynavin but so worth it. If anyone has any questions on the install feel free to shoot me pm. 26614

[Sockethead]

Awesome! I knew you'd like it! :)

[WOLFN8TR]

Awesome! I knew you'd like it! :)

Me too...[emoji106]

[Sockethead]

You know there a DIY for bringing that TPMS button to life....

[rcaso26]

Nice! I'll have to make that my next project.


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[johnrando]

Another convert!

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[wsmeyer]

Ultimate SPORT button mod setup! Unfortunately not mine but I am definitely setting this up soon.

29455

[johnrando]

Not following... what is this doing?

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[wsmeyer]

The white thing is a visual presenter also referred to as an "elmo". It's normally used in presentations to project a document onto a screen but he's using it as a giant magnifier.

[cakM3]

The white thing is a visual presenter also referred to as an "elmo". It's normally used in presentations to project a document onto a screen but he's using it as a giant magnifier.

Be sure to post where to get that visual presenter! I love this!! :thumbsup I think I will have to set something like this up for my garage workbench :drevil

[wsmeyer]

I might pick up one of these:

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/ele/6032563538.html

It's only 1024x768 but if it can focus close enough that might be, plus it's only $20. Spare monitor I have is 23" right now anyway.

[Sockethead]

I guess I'm old fashioned...

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170320/bd2c1ca50c9b6ca08ce4d62c5fcd33bc.jpg

[wsmeyer]

^^ That's the 325 sport model unit. I want the ZHP unit.

[johnrando]

Lol

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[joeybananaz18]

This is an awesome mod. Not to get too off topic but can you give each of the buttons new jobs?

Heres my thought: I always liked the idea behind bilstein's ride control. I've seen buttons from an e38 for EDC (electronic dampening control). If one has a sedan and uses a strip from a convertible, would they be able to pop on the EDC button and re wire the bilstein round blue button to hook up to the strip? Would a sedan driver see a bunch of errors come up using that strip?

Im dying to know if this is possible.

[joeybananaz18]

Hey I came across a button strip that has 2 blank buttons. Do you guy think that it would be a good candidate for this mod?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/252117736159

BTW I have a sedan so I don't know if I can use the convertible switch.


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[rguti153]

Hey I came across a button strip that has 2 blank buttons. Do you guy think that it would be a good candidate for this mod?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/252117736159

BTW I have a sedan so I don't know if I can use the convertible switch.


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Those buttons look different than the original ones

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[joeybananaz18]

Those buttons look different than the original ones

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Yes, my car is a sedan, so I don't need the buttons for the roof. Currently the only buttons I have are for DSC and the sound thing. I don't even have heated seats.

I figure since there are two "blank" buttons, they aren't programmed to anything behind the face plate, so that will make the install a bit smooth- at least in my mind.

I would probably pick up a second one with the actual sport button and switch that over to replace one of the blank ones.

Thoughts?


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[johnrando]

Hmm, I will ask William to chime in as he did the actual work. I recall the conversation about are the buttons programmed for specific things, but I don't recall talking about blanks as our vert panels are full. I would guess a blank is ok but I'm not positive. To be safe we had everything matched.

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[johnrando]

Btw, might be better to get an M3 non vert one so you have the actual sport button and not the vert-top ones that you wont use. Ausmod3 or ausdmodm3 (something like that) parts out M3s and usually has stuff. He is in e46fanatics (and maybe other sites). Check out their classifieds.

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[joeybananaz18]

Hmm, I will ask William to chime in as he did the actual work. I recall the conversation about are the buttons programmed for specific things, but I don't recall talking about blanks as our vert panels are full. I would guess a blank is ok but I'm not positive. To be safe we had everything matched.

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John, thanks so much for chiming in. If the blank buttons would make the process easier by not having something programmed behind the faceplate, I'd like to pick up the one I posted AND the cheapest one I could find, just to get that sport button on there. Any info I can gather on this would be awesome!



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[nextelbuddy]

All of the buttons in switch panels do the same thing as in the buttons are not unique besides the picture. All LED buttons are the same except for the picture. The only button that is really unique is the sunshade button and I believe the convertible top up and down button.

All of the switch panels have a circuit board and circuit boards are labeled behind each button position 1 position 2 position 3 and so on.

Not all switch panels are created equal. It's probably best to find the M3 switch panel that has the sport button.

Even if it has heated seats that's fine.

You cannot use buttons or button covers from E39 or E38. They may look the same from afar but they're completely different and are built different. They won't even fit let alone fit into the hinges properly in the circuit boards they attach to are different as well.

You cannot program switch panels to have unique features for each position, you can program the standard functions for each position if there is a position available on the circuit board. So switch panels have a circuit board that only have three receptacles solderd in place for only three buttons and circuit board will say position 4 5 6 but there won't be anything there on the board.

I believe this sport button mod that everybody's doing isn't really programming anything specific it just using the button as a housing and soldering in your own wiring and led wiring to go to a third-party module.

[joeybananaz18]

All of the buttons in switch panels do the same thing as in the buttons are not unique besides the picture. All LED buttons are the same except for the picture. The only button that is really unique is the sunshade button and I believe the convertible top up and down button.

All of the switch panels have a circuit board and circuit boards are labeled behind each button position 1 position 2 position 3 and so on.

Not all switch panels are created equal. It's probably best to find the M3 switch panel that has the sport button.

Even if it has heated seats that's fine.

You cannot use buttons or button covers from E39 or E38. They may look the same from afar but they're completely different and are built different. They won't even fit let alone fit into the hinges properly in the circuit boards they attach to are different as well.

You cannot program switch panels to have unique features for each position, you can program the standard functions for each position if there is a position available on the circuit board. So switch panels have a circuit board that only have three receptacles solderd in place for only three buttons and circuit board will say position 4 5 6 but there won't be anything there on the board.

I believe this sport button mod that everybody's doing isn't really programming anything specific it just using the button as a housing and soldering in your own wiring and led wiring to go to a third-party module.

I think I got it. Makes sense. Yeah, I think I'm going to nix the idea of doing the bilstein ridecontrol. After driving it a while, I've realized there is zero reason for me to make the ride any stiffer for northeast roads. Looks like I'll go for the standard M3 sport button switch. Thanks guys.


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[wsmeyer]

All of the buttons in switch panels do the same thing as in the buttons are not unique besides the picture. All LED buttons are the same except for the picture. The only button that is really unique is the sunshade button and I believe the convertible top up and down button.


Close, originally I also thought that function was solely dictated by position.

Look closely at the picture of the inside of the switch in the very first post. While doing the mod I noticed that for the surface mount resistor labeled J1 there are three different positions it can be soldiered to.

Then if you look at the pictures on the before and after pics of the panel we used for John's car, you'll notice we swapped the position of the SPORT and TPMS buttons. The TPMS button works works in it's new position. Others have reported that moving buttons caused them to do nothing.

At this point I think that function has something to do with position AND that J1 resistor. If you really wanted to figure this out you'd need someone like Terraphantom to dump the EPROM and decipher it, or just use trial and error to see what works.



You cannot program switch panels to have unique features for each position, you can program the standard functions for each position if there is a position available on the circuit board. So switch panels have a circuit board that only have three receptacles solderd in place for only three buttons and circuit board will say position 4 5 6 but there won't be anything there on the board.


Correct. The "perfect" panel would have the correct buttons and lights that you want AND in the correct position. The function of the original one that you are going to convert to the SPORT button doesn't matter.



I believe this sport button mod that everybody's doing isn't really programming anything specific it just using the button as a housing and soldering in your own wiring and led wiring to go to a third-party module.

Exactly. It is using the OEM physical button as the button for the Sprint Booster.

[WOLFN8TR]

Bump for the New members and BP!

[joeybananaz18]

Still want to tackle this.

Question for the pros here: I do not have heated seats but plan on retrofitting them in the very near future. If i want to do this mod NOW, can i get a button panel with heated seats and NOT get an codes or issues?

[BADCLOWN]

I wouldn’t think it would throw a code

[TLL0003]

Still want to tackle this.

Question for the pros here: I do not have heated seats but plan on retrofitting them in the very near future. If i want to do this mod NOW, can i get a button panel with heated seats and NOT get an codes or issues?

I can’t imagine that would throw a code. Do you know what all is involved with wiring in heated seats? I’d be interested if it’s not too difficult

[joeybananaz18]

I can’t imagine that would throw a code. Do you know what all is involved with wiring in heated seats? I’d be interested if it’s not too difficult

It's probably more than I feel comfortable doing on my own. I need to replace my seat covers so im looking to replace them with oem heated ones first and then get the kit. I'll probably get is 75% done and have someone do the final wiring for me.

[nextelbuddy]

I can’t imagine that would throw a code. Do you know what all is involved with wiring in heated seats? I’d be interested if it’s not too difficult

this DIY is very good. there are parts you dont need to follow, mainly because the person who did this DIY started with a car that had no switch panel so they had to run wiring from the switch panel TO the fuse box.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=341242


in your case you only need to run wires from the switch panel to each seat.

basically you will be running 4 wires from the switch panel to each seat... power wire and heat signal wire for driver seat and power wire and heat signal wire for passenger seat.

each seat aso has a ground wire that gets grounded under the carpet neat each seat at a grounding junction.

if you install factory heated seat baffles in each seat then that part is PnP with the seat harness.

[joeybananaz18]

Anyone know if this mod is still possible with a V3? I always thought no but then I just realized that V3 still has the two leds.


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[bimmerteknik]

Anyone know if this mod is still possible with a V3? I always thought no but then I just realized that V3 still has the two leds.


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Mini mania may still have some v2 units lying around. I called and ordered 2 extra controllers last time i made a sport mode switch.


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[joeybananaz18]

Mini mania may still have some v2 units lying around. I called and ordered 2 extra controllers last time i made a sport mode switch.


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MINI units will work with an e46?


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[bimmerteknik]

MINI units will work with an e46?


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Minimania is the company that makes these from what I understood.


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[joeybananaz18]

Minimania is the company that makes these from what I understood.


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Oh that’s interesting. When I was looking them up I saw that aFe was mentioned as the manufacturer.


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[Dirt McGirt]

I've now read this entire thread twice. Just finished it for the second time on a flight. This headache is worth it. For those of you that have been running this for years, how has the longevity been? Specifically, I am considering this for my step zhp. Since there are no software changes, I am guessing it shouldn't increase wear on the transmission. Would this be an accurate assumption. Thanks

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[johnrando]

I've had my SB for years, no issues. No effect on the transmission, it removes the throttle by wire lag, nothing to do with the transmission.

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[Dirt McGirt]

exact feedback I needed. Thank you, good sir. Now to find one for my step. Any takers looking to unload an SBBM0002S?

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[joeybananaz18]

So I grabbed a SB off of e46fanatics a couple of weeks ago. Wasn’t expecting much. But holy crap, in race mode the zhp is a whole different car. It’s amazing. I have to remind myself that my winters are still on and shouldn’t push too much but damn it’s so cool.

Nows the hard part. I can’t solder at all- no idea how. Is there anyone here that would be willing to tackle this project for me? I’d of course compensate them for their time.


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[johnrando]

Another convert! Yup, these things rock!

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[joeybananaz18]

John, the thing about is that all of a sudden it feels like an updated car. Cars today have settings that you can adjust to fit your needs like the ride or sportiness of the engine. To simply be able to control some of those in this car is so awesome. Using is like giving my car an energy drink- green light is a Red Bull, and red light is a 5 hour energy lol


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[johnrando]

Lol

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[nextelbuddy]

so if i want to get this, do i need to look for the V2 and not the V3?

[WOLFN8TR]

Yes Sir....[emoji106]

Sprint Booster Info:
2 wire Sprint Boosters should be Manual version and 4 wire Auto. This has been debated before and gets confusing.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Sprint Booster Info:

"CLICK"
Sprint Booster V2 - (SBM10001S) - 6MT -2 wires (http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/SBBM0001S/ES2523983/)
Sprint Booster V2 - (SBBM0002S) - Auto - 4 wires (http://www.ecstuning.com/News/ES1896923/)

The BDD401 is suppose to be for a Manual and the BDD401A is for a Automatic BUT you can use either one apparently. One is just more sensitive than the other. The "A" after the model number mean Auto and also the one they recommend for the "M".

Found This Info:
They are cross-suitable. The Auto version simply is less sensitive than the manual version as there is no clutch control element to help you keep it under control.

http://www.sprintbooster.it/doc/Sprint%20Booster%20Catalogue__02_13(July%202013).p df (http://www.sprintbooster.it/doc/Sprint%20Booster%20Catalogue__02_13(July%202013).p df)

This link shows the original version with "NO" mode button. There is no "S" after the model number. "S" = Selectable or Switch version.
http://www.jrponline.com/downloads/catalogs/sprintbooster.pdf (http://www.jrponline.com/downloads/catalogs/sprintbooster.pdf)

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/29/u9esa6eb.jpg

1. The compatibility of some parts may vary between different markets.
2. All parts ending with "A" (i.e. SBDD451A) are developed for use in Automatic & Tiptronic transmission models (DSG…etc)
3. Manual versions (non "A"versions) can only be installed in manual models.
4. In some early models the throttle connector is located in the engine bay
5. For Mercedes AMG, BMW M Series and highly tuned models we suggest the use of the Auto version
6. Switches are not universal. They will only work with the specific Sprint Booster in the box. Do not use the same switch in different Sprint Booster part numbers.

(FYI Mini Cooper is the same part number as the BMW's)
MINI COOPER 2002- ALL ENGINES SBDD401 / SBDD401A

[cakM3]

So I grabbed a SB off of e46fanatics a couple of weeks ago. Wasn’t expecting much. But holy crap, in race mode the zhp is a whole different car. It’s amazing. I have to remind myself that my winters are still on and shouldn’t push too much but damn it’s so cool.

Joey,

That’s why I have Sprint Booster in all my cars except my Audi (which will change this summer).

The Sport Button mod was probably one of the most challenging mods, not because it is too complex to do, but because how hard it is to solder everything without burning out the LEDs from the Sprint Booster.

Even if you don’t do the Sport Button mod, just having Sprint Booster connected will change the personality of your car. Lots of fun for those who have it!! [emoji1417][emoji1417]


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[racer2086]

Can anyone tell me how much of a difference the auto vs manual sensitivity is? Will the car be too jumpy with the manual trans version?

[racer2086]

Ok so have my button pod and the SB should be here soon to get wired up.

I read through this whole thing, and kept asking myself...besides the LED, why can't I use the standard output of the sport button wired back to the SB? Essentially replace the SB harness and button with wiring from the sport button. Then you can add a zener diode and red led to the sport button. I guess I need to measure the outputs and inputs from the SB.