Failed VA State Inspection - UGH - The Lighting tales of an Imola Prodigy

[danewilson77]

So, as the title states, I failed my inspection this afternoon.

3 issues

1. QTY 1 tag light was out . Shit. When I got the car home, I popped off both rectangular covers. The one that was out, was completely corrode. I mean it was seriously nasty. I popped the bulb out, and replaced both bulbs with a set of LED bulbs I had in the garage. I had a spare kit I was keeping for a rainy day...so....no biggie. Connections were prepped with electronics cleaner, then I applied a lil dab of dielectric grease to each connection. Lenses were pristinely cleaned. Retest SAT.

2. QTY 2 taillight blinkers are NOT amber. Shit. Funny how I passed last year with these very same lights. Oh well, simple fix here....I will just pick up some goddamn amber lights in the A.M. from Advance Auto. I guess eventually I will go with some stealth bulbs.

3. QTY 1 Headlight high beam will not work. Shit. low beam on both driver and passenger sides work fine.....but the highbeam does NOT work on the passenger side. Shit, shit, shit.

I called Charlie (cakM3) (Hey buddy, was happening?), and initially told him the "Up-Down" self check on the HID was also an issue, but it worked fine for me when I got it home.

I guess I'm just going to focus on this highbeam issue. This is the long pole in the tent for me.

Any and all idea's will be entertained. I have brand new D2S's at home. Could a simple bulb swap out fix this issue? Charlie indicated to me that I may need a new headlight. I refuse to believe this. :). Not that I don't believe you buddy....I just don't have the $600-$1200 for a new headlight now, nor do I have the time to retro-fit.

You see....with a rejection sticker on your car....they will not let you on base. Oops....guess I have tomorrow off :)

My plan is to attempt to fix this in the morning......I have a bout 6-7 hours, then get it back to indy, so they can slap a sticker on it.

Any and all idea's are very much appreciated. I just don't know a whole lot about these headlights.

Thanks.

[ryankokesh]

I'd check all the connections and stuff on the high beam, but I'd imagine you should be getting a bulb out error on your dash if there isn't current going through the bulb. :dunno


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Hornung418]

High beam is a shutter issue. Not a bulb issue. If the shutter is broken new light is necessary. Or you can code the car to send the inner bowls more voltage for high beam functionality.

Tail light indicators can be either amber or red or any shade in between. Front indicators can be either amber or white or any shade in between.

Horney...via TT.

[danewilson77]

High beam is a shutter issue. Not a bulb issue. If the shutter is broken new light is necessary. Or you can code the car to send the inner bowls more voltage for high beam functionality.

Tail light indicators can be either amber or red or any shade in between. Front indicators can be either amber or white or any shade in between.

Horney...via TT.

So you're saying the car could be coded to make the inner bowls (inches of....halogen) the high beams?

[Hornung418]

Yes. That would get you by in a pinch.

[danewilson77]

OK....reading through here....I'm not really seeing any requirement that high beams actually come on. Just something about the in cabin indicator. What say you?

http://lis.virginia.gov/cgi-bin/legp604.exe?000+reg+19VAC30-70-140

[Mike V]

Jeez, strict inspections over there. Are they done by state-ran inspection stations?

If we fail an inspection here, we don't get any stickers on the window. That's nuts.

[cakM3]

Dane,

Understood. The other option is to get your LCM coded for regular Xenons (not Bi-Xenons) then you should have high beams again. The inner halogen lights will now switch to high beams and you should pass inspection.

[danewilson77]

Right. Now I just need the coding fairy to show up at my house tomorrow before noon.....so I can get it back to inspection station tomorrow.....so I can get on base Monday morning.

I had an indy here, turn my DRL's off, when I installed my A/E's. I wonder if they would/could do that? It would cost me $90.00 for about 15 minutes worth of work....but it would be worth it if I passed.

Any chance they could still fail me, because the HID high doesn't work/coded off, and the inner, now is my high beam?

[WOLFN8TR]

Holy shit VA is a Nazi state now? That's crazy, what is this for registration? All we do here is smog the car and done. They could care less about lights, windows, bumpers, mud flaps and such.

Good luck with the issues.


Bayerische-Motoren-Werke

[danewilson77]

Damn dude....the VA state inspection is 24 steps long...hehe. Is there anyone within 100 miles of me, that can do some coding for me, between 0800 and 1400 tomorrow?
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REQUIRED OFFICIAL INSPECTION PROCEDURE

Each inspection consists of the following items – for further details consult the "Official Inspection Manual":

1. - REMOVE OLD INSPECTION STICKER.

2. - DRIVE VEHICLE INTO INSPECTION LANE.

3. - INSPECT BRAKES FOR:

•Worn, damaged or missing parts.
•Worn, contaminated or defective linings or drums.
•Leaks in system, proper fluid level.
•Worn, contaminated or defective disc pads or discs.
(NOTE: A minimum of two wheels and drums must be removed from each vehicle at the time of inspection. Consult the official inspection manual for exceptions.)
4. - INSPECT PARKING BRAKE FOR:

•Broken or missing parts.
•Proper adjustment.
•Standard factory equipment or equivalent.
5. - INSPECT HEADLIGHTS FOR:

•Approved type, aim, and output.
•Condition of lamp, wiring and switch.
•Beam indicator.
6. - INSPECT OTHER LIGHTS FOR:

•Approved type, proper bulbs, condition of lenses, wiring and switch.
•Aim of fog and driving lamps.
•Illumination of all lamps, lens color, and condition of lens.
(NOTE: Every vehicle must have a rear lamp showing a red light to the rear, a white light illuminating the rear license plate; vehicles over 7 feet wide or extending 4 inches or more beyond the front fender extremes must be equipped with approved clearance lamps and reflex reflectors. Count load in measuring.)
7. – INSPECT SIGNAL DEVICE FOR:

•Approved type, proper bulbs, condition of lenses, wiring and switch.
•Correct indications and tell-tale (visual or audible).
•Illumination of all lamps, lens color, and condition of lens.
8. – INSPECT STEERING & SUSPENSION FOR: (Jack up front end as shown in Manual)

•Wear in bushings, kingpins, ball joints, wheel bearings, tie rod ends.
•Looseness of gear box on frame, condition of drag link and steering arm.
•Play in steering wheel.
•Wheel alignment and axle alignment.
•Broken spring leaves, and worn shackles.
•Shock absorbers.
•Broken frame.
•Broken or missing engine mounts.
•Lift blocks.
9. – INSPECT TIRES, WHEELS & RIMS FOR:

•Condition of tires including tread depth.
•Mixing radials and bias ply tires.
•Wheels that are cracked or damaged so as to affect safe operation.
10. – INSPECT MIRROR FOR:

•Rigidity of mounting.
•Condition of reflecting surface.
•View of road to rear (Truck mirrors must extend at least halfway beyond edge of body) – (Visibility 200 feet to rear).
11. – INSPECT HORN FOR:

•Electrical connections, mounting and horn button.
•Emits sound audible for a minimum of 200 feet.
12. – INSPECT WINDSHIELD AND OTHER GLASS FOR:

•Approved type safety glass.
•Cloudiness, distortion or other obstruction to vision.
•Cracked, scratched or broken glass.
•Stickers. ALL UNAUTHORIZED STICKERS MUST BE REMOVED.
•Sunshading material attached to the windshield to ensure it does not extend more than 3 inches downward from the top of windshield, unless authorized by Medical Waiver Certificate.
•Operation of left front door glass.
13. – INSPECT WINDSHIELD WIPER/DEFROSTER FOR:

•Operating condition.
•Condition of blade.
14. – INSPECT EXHAUST SYSTEM FOR:

•Exhaust line-manifold, gaskets, pipes, mufflers, connections, etc.
•Leakage of gases at any point from motor to point discharged from system.
15. – INSPECT LICENSE TAGS FOR:

•Illumination of rear plate.
16. – INSPECT HOOD AND AREA UNDER THE HOOD FOR:

•Operating condition of hood latch.
•Presence of emissions system -Evidence that any essential parts have been removed, rendered inoperative or disconnected.
•Fluid levels that are below the proper level
1. Brake fluid.
2. Power steering fluid.
•Power steering belt - proper tension, wear, or absence.
17. – INSPECT AIR POLLUTION CONTROL SYSTEM (1973 and Subsequent Models) FOR:

•Installation.
•Operation.
(NOTE: This includes the catalytic converter and the fuel tank filler pipe.)
18. – INSPECT DRIVER’S SEAT FOR:

•Anchorage.
•Location.
•Condition.
19. – INSPECT SEAT BELTS FOR:

•Approved type.
•Installation.
20. – INSPECT AIR BAG AND AIRBAG READINESS LIGHT FOR:

•Any defects in the air bag system noted by the air bag readiness light, or otherwise indicated; or
•The air bag has been deployed and has not been replaced (and is not deactivated because of a medical or other exemption and a notice is posted to indicate that it has been deactivated); or
•Any part of the air bag system has been removed from the vehicle; or
•If the air bag indicator fails to light, or stays on continuously.
21. – INSPECT DOORS AT THE RIGHT & LEFT SIDE OF THE DRIVER’S SEAT FOR:

•Handle or opening device which will permit the opening of the door from the outside and inside of the vehicle.
•Latching system which will hold door in its proper closed position.
22. – INSPECT FUEL SYSTEM FOR:

•Any part that is not securely fastened.
•Liquid fuel leakage.
•Fuel tank filler cap for presence.
23. – INSPECT FLOOR PAN FOR:

(a) Holes which allow exhaust gases to enter occupant compartment.
(b) Conditions which create a hazard to the occupants.

24. – ISSUE STICKER:

(a) If approved, place approval sticker on the vehicle, and give pink copy of certificate to operator.
(b) ALL DEFECTS MUST BE CORRECTED AND THE VEHICLE REINSPECTED WITHIN 15 DAYS.

THE DRIVER MAY BE IN JEOPARDY OF RECEIVING A SUMMONS FOR ANY DEFECT STILL

PRESENT ANY TIME THE VEHICLE IS OPERATED ON THE HIGHWAY.

(NOTE: The validity period of the rejection sticker shall include fifteen (15) days in addition to the day of the inspection.)

NOTE: If you have a specific question with regard to motor vehicle safety inspection or inspection requirements, please refer to the Official Annual Motor Vehicle Inspection Manual, which is available through Virginia's Legislative Information System. It is comprised of Commonwealth of Virginia Administrative Code, Chapter 70 (MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY INSPECTION RULES AND REGULATIONS), Sections 1 through 680:1 and Forms.

Virginia State Police employees cannot give legal advice, nor interpret the law for members of the public. Information within this Web site is provided for general guidance purposes only and may not apply to all factual situations. Persons needing legal advice may contact Virginia Lawyer Referral Service at 1-800-552-7977 to be referred to a private attorney for a 30-minute consultation for a fee of $35.00.


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[3ZHP]

I had the opposite problem on the 03 vert last year with the high beam working but not the low beam. Just changed the $100++ something bulb and it fixed the issue.

I had to deal with that inspection stuff in New York way back and was a certified inspector in that other life. Don't know how it is today but, I know there were many corrupt inspectors back in that day, at minimum you would at least need a headlight alignment.

[danewilson77]

OK....thanks.

My plan tomorrow is

1. Install new bulbs.

2. Swap headlights, passenger to driver.

3. If 1 or 2 doesn't fix it, try to get it coded for inner high beams.

[WOLFN8TR]

DAM!!! That's Crazy....

[3ZHP]

There was a recall on the tail lights last year, did you do that?

[Johnmadd]

Right. Now I just need the coding fairy to show up at my house tomorrow before noon.....so I can get it back to inspection station tomorrow.....so I can get on base Monday morning.

I had an indy here, turn my DRL's off, when I installed my A/E's. I wonder if they would/could do that? It would cost me $90.00 for about 15 minutes worth of work....but it would be worth it if I passed.

Any chance they could still fail me, because the HID high doesn't work/coded off, and the inner, now is my high beam?

Dane, if that is the case you can take it to another place if you are willing to pay the entire fee again.

[cakM3]

Right. Now I just need the coding fairy to show up at my house tomorrow before noon.....so I can get it back to inspection station tomorrow.....so I can get on base Monday morning.

I had an indy here, turn my DRL's off, when I installed my A/E's. I wonder if they would/could do that? It would cost me $90.00 for about 15 minutes worth of work....but it would be worth it if I passed.

Any chance they could still fail me, because the HID high doesn't work/coded off, and the inner, now is my high beam?

Dane,

I would be surprised if they fail you again.....I would (I hate to use this word) "assume" that as long as you have functional high beams and that you also have functional lows then you should be good to go. But then....that's an assumption. If I were much closer I would have come down to help out....

[Johnmadd]

Where did you take it?

[danewilson77]

Colonial Foreign Auto Service on Mooretown. The guys that jacked my rims that day.

[Johnmadd]

Go up route 60 past "hog wild" until you get to the the first inspection station/shop, if all lights are on and tire/exhaust/brakes are good your golden.

[danewilson77]

Go up route 60 past "hog wild" until you get to the the first inspection station/shop, if all lights are on and tire/exhaust/brakes are good your golden.

Even with a rejection sticker? I don't have to go back to same place?

Thanks Johnny.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

[Johnmadd]

Even with a rejection sticker? I don't have to go back to same place?

Thanks Johnny.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

That's right.

[Mike V]

Holy shit VA is a Nazi state now? That's crazy, what is this for registration? All we do here is smog the car and done. They could care less about lights, windows, bumpers, mud flaps and such.

Good luck with the issues.


Bayerische-Motoren-Werke

MO is the opposite. A "safety" inspection is done but no emissions (besides St. Louis).

[johnrando]

Wish I had something of value to offer you Dane. Just a GL, and I hope it works out. We don't have inspections here, just SMOG.

[danewilson77]

This year I will be picking up a pair of the Magnetti Marelli's (sp?).

I can get a pair from FCPEuro for shot $1500, and the site makes out as well.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

[danewilson77]

Decided to go with programming. I'm sitting at European Cars of Williamsburg now. The way he explained it to me, is he might (or might not) have the correct file for single xenon, inner bowl high beam programming. He buys the programs, that he uses, not the programs "these kids use nowadays"....lol.

Keeping fingers crossed. Need this fixed.

As a sidenote, they have a 2000 BMW ///M5, with 90k miles for $17,995. :)

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

[danewilson77]

Update.

They could not program, and shady place johnvwas referring to would not pass it.

The high beam doesn't have a fuse?

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

[Johnmadd]

Update.

They could not program, and shady place johnvwas referring to would not pass it.

The high beam doesn't have a fuse?

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

:( sorry dude

[danewilson77]

Update:

Both bulbs are good. There are no fuses. The issue is that the plunger is not activating to move the lenses for high beam.

Could be wire?

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

[das boots]

DW...I have a set of halogens that you can use temporarily for you to pass the inspection. Swap out your Xenons and use the halogens. Dunno if shipping overnight would be able to help.....

[danewilson77]

Appreciate it, but I don't have any of the inscindiary connections (car side) for halogen. How would that work?

[aurelius]

Where'd you source the LEDs for the plate light?

[danewilson77]

I had a set in my garage. I think I got them from Khoalty.

[Johnmadd]

Maybe the solenoid...

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=191731

[danewilson77]

Lawrence, would the halogens be plug and play?

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

[danewilson77]

Oh yeah....the shop took all my euro tune stuff off that BP did. No euro pulse hazards, no one touch lock/unlock, no Clutchless start, etc....

Have I told you guys how much I hate this headlight?

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

[BCS_ZHP]

Dane, hang in there brother, look at the bright side:
- BP will only charge you the same price ($0.00) as last time for coding, he'll be in VA in October
- you are off work on a Friday in the summer playing with your ZHP, albeit on a frustrating issue, the rest of us blokes are drudging thru work.

[Hornung418]

DW. The Halogens use the same connections that the Xenons use. Only difference is the ballast. Sorry about the coding failure :(

Horney...via TT.

[WOLFN8TR]

Man all of this frustration and BS to pass a ridiculous state inspection. Doesn't Suprise me one bit. Sorry to hear your having issues Dane. If you get completely frustrated I will take the ZHP off your hands for $5000! Call it a vacation donation. LOL...


Bayerische-Motoren-Werke

[danewilson77]

This is what has failed.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GHvqDQFZabo&list=UUNt0wYLKnnwXPelgwDVrwYw&index=1&feature=plcp

[danewilson77]

This is what has failed.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GHvqDQFZabo&list=UUNt0wYLKnnwXPelgwDVrwYw&index=1&feature=plcp

[das boots]

Lawrence, would the halogens be plug and play?

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

In a way. However, if your ZHP came with Xenons (Code $522), then you will need to code for Halogens. Now, if it wwas previously halogens and converted to Xenons, like what I did, then the coding for Halogens would never go away. Hence it will be plug & play to convert back.

[danewilson77]

In a way. However, if your ZHP came with Xenons (Code $522), then you will need to code for Halogens. Now, if it wwas previously halogens and converted to Xenons, like what I did, then the coding for Halogens would never go away. Hence it will be plug & play to convert back.

Damn.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

[danewilson77]

What do you guys think about swapping ecu's? John has offered to let me swap his....into mine, to complete the inspection. His ecu is programmed halogen high beams.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

[danewilson77]

I did just notice, it looks like the 2 wires are cut....

They go to that activating solenoid from the hid plug in.

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/IMAG1640.jpg


Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

[das boots]

Looks like an insulation cut? And you have voltage drop and polarities jump and shorting with each other? But...are the wires cut? If you intend to splice them back together, make sure to solder them. If...they can be reached.

Re-insulate the partial cut wires and try again....

[Jon D]

could you mechanically lock the plunger in the 'on' position? and if you do that will the light work as you complete the circuit??

[danewilson77]

could you mechanically lock the plunger in the 'on' position? and if you do that will the light work as you complete the circuit??


Mechanically locking it would make my high beams always be on.

UPDATE: red and green wire had perfect continuity. BP is making trip from CT on Sunday to code for single xenon, inner bowl high beams.:)

Vive La Familia!

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

[Johnmadd]

I wonder if you could get a "generic" solenoid of the same size and specs from a specialized type store or website that has solenoids for general use?

[danewilson77]

I wonder if you could get a "generic" solenoid of the same size and specs from a specialized type store or website that has solenoids for general use?

Good point, I think that it will come off the light. I'll snoop around and see if I can get some specs off of it.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

[Johnmadd]

http://www.kendrion-mishawaka.com/products_examples/custom-solenoids-&-actuators.cfm?gclid=CP-80svHqbECFcldTAod3DUApA

Check out the one in the middle all the way down.

[danewilson77]

Yup...it looks similar.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

[danewilson77]

UPDATE: I'm thinking that solonoid was bound up and us cycling it unbound it.

I'm going to test throughout the day BP, then give you a call this evening with official status.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5aWUV8i1hY&feature=youtube_gdata_player

[Hornung418]

Looks like that's a pass. So you've fixed all three items for inspection. All that is left is to get the car coded to how you had it.

Horney...via TT.

[derbo]

Wonder what happened to the solenoid..

[danewilson77]

Looks like that's a pass. So you've fixed all three items for inspection. All that is left is to get the car coded to how you had it.

Horney...via TT.

Yup.


Wonder what happened to the solenoid..

Knowing what I know now...I would have have simple pulled the back cover off that hid, and cycles that solonoid a few times then tried it again. I guess there's an outside chance that unplugging the red/green wires, then remaking the connection could have done it as well...but my money is on a stuck solonoid.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

[das boots]

Any way to keep the solenoid lubricated as a PM?

[danewilson77]

Any way to keep the solenoid lubricated as a PM?

Don't think so. I believe the coil area, inside the solonoid is what was seized...not external plunger.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

[das boots]

Ahhh..so it is an enclosed electro-mechanical operation inside a casing similar to a relay?

[danewilson77]

Ahhh..so it is an enclosed electro-mechanical operation inside a casing similar to a relay?

Yessir.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

[das boots]

DW...thanks for the compliment...but I don't deserve to called a sir. :blushing