OEM Bi-Xenons and Install Guidance

[das boots]

I did a search and there was nothing close enough related to what I am involved. I would be reference a couple of threads from E46fs and BFs.

I just 'acquired' a set of OEM Bi-Xenons from Brian Crane. Technically, it is a plug and play install proceedure. Evidently, it is but not easy. Also, there are several of the Goombas have done this before. So, need guidance to get this going. The wiring from a temporary Hi Beams (Flashing use) and permanent Hi Beams. Please expand on the wirings for both drivers and passenger. And also HIDs. I thought they are Xenons. So, where does the HIDs come in? Thanks.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=924288

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1697307&highlight=Bixenon

[Hornung418]

HIDs and Xenons are one in the same.

As far as wiring goes, have your LCM coded by a forum member and avoid any messy underhood wiring.

Share some pics of your haul and I'll give you more details. Running errands all afternoon. I'll get back to you later tonight.

[zj96sc]

HID = high intensity discharge, this is the technical classification of the lamp type. works by passing an arc through a gas/metal salts mixture, creates plasma, makes teh brights. in our case, this gas is xenon. referred to equivalently.

concur, you need to re-code your LCM to get the car to play nice with the voltage/amperage demands of the ballasts, this part is "plug and play" if you include software coding in that label. probably easiest to just reprogram the whole car with that option code.

what I do not know is if non-bixenon cars got the wiring for the bi-xenon shutter solenoids. if so, should be good to go.

[das boots]

I will post pics when I get the Bi-Xenons. I could probably get someone to do the re-code. I would rather not deal with re-wiring and stuff. Installing AEs would proabaly be messy enough for me if I decide to install AEs. How easy is it to remove the present set up of headlights and replace with the Bi-Xenons? Hopefully I have the wiring set up for bi-xenons......

[Hornung418]

Unscrew, remove and unplug the corner light, unclip the headlight harness, unclip the lower headlight trim from the corner light side, four 8mm sheet metal screws hold each lamp in place and then its an easy pull. I was an have my lights out in 10 minutes. First time will probably take you around 20 a side.

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[das boots]

Got it. Thanks. Will keep all updated.

[Hermes]

Glad to hear you got the lights, it confused me a little the first time I noticed the halogens on your car

[das boots]

If they come on time before the weekend, then I can install them and take them to Vince to have LCM re-coded......if not, then some other time. No biggie. Life goes on....

[das boots]

Update: Still waiting for my package. However, I did find somebody who had the same set-up. Correct me if I'm wrong on my observation. During low, the Xenons (looks like bright white) have low intensity. During high, the Xenons are now brighter. But the inner halogen remain to be Off. The only time the inner halogen comes on is during flashing only. And this set up is without the messy wiring. Correct so far? Coding requires some time to be done. I was thinking of only a few minutes. And he can do the coding since he has the set up

And he has AL as his lens. Any difference between AL and ZKW? Or are they the same but different manufacturer?

[nike001]

Update: Still waiting for my package. However, I did find somebody who had the same set-up. Correct me if I'm wrong on my observation. During low, the Xenons (looks like bright white) have low intensity. During high, the Xenons are now brighter. But the inner halogen remain to be Off. The only time the inner halogen comes on is during flashing only. And this set up is without the messy wiring. Correct so far? Coding requires some time to be done. I was thinking of only a few minutes. And he can do the coding since he has the set up

And he has AL as his lens. Any difference between AL and ZKW? Or are they the same but different manufacturer?

The bulb remains at the same light intensity no matter what. The difference between low beams and high beams is the shudder/cutoff shield. What makes these lights "bi-xenon" is the shudder that flips up when you turn your high beams on, thus allowing more light out.

US-Spec is also set that when you flip on your high beams, the shudder moves up and the inner halogen bulb does nothing. It is strictly for the 'flash to pass' feature. Though you can enable it to come on when you turn your high beams on (with coding) and then when you turn your highs on, you have your bi-xenons and aso the inner halogen bulb on.

As per the ZKW VS AL lens, I'm not sure on the technical differences between them, but the ZKW lens will give you a sharper cutoff. Also, if you modify your cutoff shield where the step is (theres another piece of thin metal behind it that you can cut off) your cutoff will be full of blue, instead of that yellow cutoff

[Hornung418]

AL lenses are opaque, ZKW lenses are clear. You don't want ZKW projectors...they are the ones that burn the reflectors.

Your observations are correct. That is how the lights are programed from the factory. You can code them to function differently and it doesn't take long at all. Check out the Trifecta light mod where all the lights are on at once. Like an off-road setup...very bright.

For the bi-xenon shutter to function you will have to do some additional wiring. It's pretty simple and when you get to that step, I can instruct you further, as I have done it myself :)

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[das boots]

Dunno if I am getting this right. Isn't this swap a simple plug n play? With coding to make the bi-xenons work? What extra wiring will be required? Is this the one to make the halogen work on brights? Or is this an internal wiring for the bi-xenons like jumping a wire or something for the shutters?

[Hornung418]

You just need to add the pigtail for the bi-xenon shutter. There are two and its really simple.

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[das boots]

Could you provide the P/N for the pigtail?

[Hornung418]

Ya I'll have em for you tomorrow. :)

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[Hornung418]

Here are the part numbers, Lawrence:

2x Elertrical Wire With Terminal - 61130006665
2x BUSHING CONTACT - 61130008998
2x PLUG HOUSING - 61138365348

Let me know if you run into issues.

[das boots]

Do you recommend that I get these parts ready for the install and coding?

[Hornung418]

Yes. It cost me $13.xx at my dealer.

You're also going to need 18-22 gauge copper wire to connect the two contact bushings. Crimp or solder the two ends together, which ever you prefer. I routed the wires through the DME box and out the front rubber tubing. The Passenger Side was routed through the weather stripping around the top of the engine bay, but only because I couldn't figure out how to drop the glove box in the time I had to work on it. They function exactly as an OE Bi-Xenon car would function.

[das boots]

Is this the same procedure if I want the xenons and halogen turned on during high beams like the Bimmer Forums procedure on the wiring on my original post #1?

[Hornung418]

Yup! I didn't even see that you had posted that last link. That's where I got my part numbers from and is the exact DIY I used. I even posted in it LOL

But to get the halogens turned on you'll have to have the LCM coded to perform that specific function. Speak to BP or TerraPhantm. They'll help you out.

[das boots]

Then this is not the route I will be taking. All I need is for the halogen to turn on high beams when I do the flashing......but would retain the xenons to be on low or on high beams. Do I still need to have any external wirings to accomplish this mode or a direct plug n play with LCM coding?

[Hornung418]

I'm lost. You want OEM functioning lights, but don't want to wire it OEM?
The only extra wiring you need is the Shutter wiring. Everything else is coded to the LCM to perform the required functions.

[das boots]

Here is what I need.......the xenons will be used for high and low beams. Correct me if I am wrong....if the halogen is to be used as part of the high beams and require extra wirings, then I would not go that route. All I need for the halogens to come on is when used on flashing mode. Although I know that would not be OEM function. Can this be done without any extra wirings? For me, the extra wirings would be too messy. I still do not understand the shutter thing in reference with the xenons. All I need for the xenons are for high and low beams only and coded with the LCM. My apologies on the confusion....

[Hornung418]

Okay, gotcha.

The bi-xenons utilize a shutter that when the stalk is pressed forward, the shutter is actuated and the light that was blocked off is now allowed to be emitted through the lens. That's how the high beams work. Your inner lights will function exactly as they do now. DRL, F2P ect., no extra wiring is needed for them. But in order for the high beams to function you will need to wire the Shutters into the LCM. That's how you get the bi-xenons to work. with out them you will just have Xenons. Your inner lights will act as the high beam function and it will work exactly like your halogens, two lights one low and one high. Did I clarify that for you??

[das boots]

Not really. Let me try this again....So, in order for the high beams in the xenons to work, I still need to wire the xenons to the LCM for coding for the shutters to work? If I don't wire them, then I do not have high beams for the xenon? And.....The inner lights which are halogens are the high beams?

If the xenons need to be wired for high beams, then what are the procedure(s)? Am I still on the right track?

[Hornung418]

I'll take some pictures tomorrow and give you the play by play of my install.

[das boots]

4455I just received the Bi-Xenons. And I opened up the rear panel fro the xenons. Could someone interpret what the bulbs says? They look like different bulbs. And the passenger's bowl (if that is the correct terminology) looks like it is burnt.

The passenger's side (top) & driver's side (bottom).

[danewilson77]

Yup. Burnt. That's your old zkw?

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2

[Hornung418]

Oh no!!! Those are no good. You got ZKWs. You need to contact the seller and ask for your money back.

Dane, he has halogens. These are what he bought...

[danewilson77]

Oh no!!! Those are no good. You got ZKWs. You need to contact the seller and ask for your money back.

+1

Fml

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[das boots]

So, now way around it by replacing the bowls and bulbs?

[Hornung418]

These are the infamous ZKW lights that were the subject of a huge number of threads regarding less that poor light output. You're better off keeping your Halogens and getting new lenses.

Damn this is pretty disappointing :(

[das boots]

It's just the thought of upgrading to Bi-Xenons from my present halogens. But I already did replace my lenses the same month I purchased the ZHP. The seller is also a mafioso. And he did contact me since I was inquiring around for Bi-Xenons and if I was still interested on Bi-Xenons. And he offered me to purchase his Bi-Xenons. But of course, I did not ask for the condition. Let's just say I'm still wet behind the ears.

I already PMed and emailed him requesting for a refund. Paid by Pp.

[Hornung418]

Hope everything goes smoothly. Disappointed it didn't work oh this go 'round :(

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[das boots]

Same here.....Oh well....learn something new. Life goes on. Waiting for his response. Try to avoid going to Paypal.

[danewilson77]

So, now way around it by replacing the bowls and bulbs?

Nope.

[das boots]

Well, just got done reading through the whole thread of the burnt bowls. No definite easy fixes aside from drastic measures. The easiest as I understand is to get a set of AL Bi-Xenons which are rarer than rare....and expensive. Or might as well source and purchase at cost new Magnetti Marelli.

[JupiterBMW]

I just read through this whole thread hoping to see that you got your xenons installed, but I see it didn't work out. Damn dude, that sucks, sorry to hear. I'm trying to learn as much as I can with lights right now as I can definitely say, I'm a victim of the burnt bowls issue with the ZKW lights as well... My car has the auto-leveling bi-xenons, ZKW of course... And I must say, without fog lights, there is almost NO light output right now, its awful. So, definitely get the bowls taken care of in your lights before installing them, if you have that option.

That being said, I read a thread over on E46f that someone put E90 ZKW bowls into his E46 lights... He said its almost a 100% drop in part and they are not the plastic versions like we got. I'm trying to read some more but I think I might try to go this route. I need to do something about my lights... I also found some condensation in the passenger corner light yesterday.

[das boots]

Hope everything goes smoothly. Disappointed it didn't work oh this go 'round :(

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How long do I wait for a response from the seller before filing a grievance with Paypal?

[Hornung418]

When did you file it? As it's the weekend, I wouldn't wait past Tuesday afternoon.

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[das boots]

I will wait till Monday. In the meantime, I will resend again a PM & email to the seller.

[das boots]

I'll take some pictures tomorrow and give you the play by play of my install.

Will...I finally I think have a small idea on wht you are trying to explain.

For the Xenon High Beams to work, I would require the shutters to work by energizing the shutters during High Beams which is the positive side. And you did mention some wiring and some connectors are require on the P/Ns that you imparted. And some wirings the needs to be done all the way to the LCMs. So far so good?

I am now confused on which is which in the connector numbers are in the LCM. I guess, I do not have a choice but to do a messy wiring. You still got photos? I PMed you for my email address if you so desire. Thanks.

[cakM3]

You can also keep these and rebuild them like I did mine and then 'upgrade' your lighting to xenons. Assuming you don't mind sourcing the additional parts to make them work. :thumbsup

There are good DIYs out there to do the retrofit :)

TT + iPhone4

[das boots]

Too late, I already shipped them back to the seller for a full refund. And also, I am on the process of purchasing locally a fully refurbished AL Bi-Xenons. I will post pics when I get them....

[das boots]

Got my full refund from the ZKW Bi-Xenons. But was able to acquire a set of AL locally. I know the ZKWs were D1S. And the AL are D2S. Are there different types of D2S'? I guess bulbs are in Ws. But Xenons are Ks. Are originals 4300K and to make them brighter 6000Ks? Is it worth it to upgrade to a higher output? Is the OEM output good or bright enough? Also ran a pull string from inside the footwell to the ECM in preparation on running the wires.

[nike001]

Lawrence, I believe both ZKW's and AL's are D2S.

Also, the "K" you're using to describe the xenon bulbs are nothing more than the output color. 4300k is said to be like daylight (yellow-ish) and 6000k is more on the blue side. 5000k is best, IMO and the best bulbs you can get are the Phillips CBI bulbs that are pretty expensive and are rated at 5000k.

To measure the brightness of light, we use lumens.

[johnrando]

From my research, if you don't want to go with the really expensive ones, the Phillips D2S are the next in line for the best lights but the pricing is more reasonable. I went with stock 4300K but it's really your own preference. The higher the number the more the light color moves from yellow-ish to white-ish to blue-ish.

[Hornung418]

The K stands for Kelvin, which is at what temperature the bulb burns.

Go 4300k or 5000k. You get what you pay for. Buy right the first time, Xenon bulbs last 6+ years.

Sent from Branson, MO.

[danewilson77]

I've heard super reports on the Philips bulbs.

[johnrando]

I've heard super reports on the Philips bulbs.

Absolutely. Those are "get what you pay for bulbs" from what I've read.

[das boots]

Aha moment. Learn a great deal from all of you guys. Would I be able to see what kind of bulbs that is in place just by looking at them from the rear or do I have to remove them to see if I have the 4300K? And who sells the Philips 5000K?

[johnrando]

As far as who sells, check out umnitza.com, and theretrofitsource.com. Umnitza currently has a sale. I don't know how easy/hard it is to tell w/o removing, but if you saw ones side by side, you'd definitely see the difference btwn 4300 and 6000. Not sure about 5000 as I have no direct experience with 5k.

[danewilson77]

Absolutely. Those are "get what you pay for bulbs" from what I've read.

Right...

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

[das boots]

I was able to open the rears of the fixtures. I have two brands. Osram & Philips. I see 35w. I thought they are suppose to be in K (Kelvins)? Did some POs replace with halogens???? I know they have to be replaced. Let me get started looking for replacements.

[Hornung418]

All bulbs are in watts. The temperature is what the light discharge is. Those lights are fine. No need to change them.

Sent from Branson, MO.

[das boots]

How will I now know if they are the 5000K or appropriate temperature as in the color of the Xenons?

[Hornung418]

The Phillips 85122 is a 4300k bulb. The Osram should be the same temp.

Sent from Branson, MO.

[das boots]

Unfortunately the Osram Xenarc is 66040. Whatever that is. Where do I find a conversion chart or different companies have different codes?

[terraphantm]

Unfortunately the Osram Xenarc is 66040. Whatever that is. Where do I find a conversion chart or different companies have different codes?

The 66040 is the model # of the 4300K bulb that Osram used to sell a while back. It's since been replaced with the 66240, which is more or less the same bulb with a slightly revised base (it's more similar to the Philips base now).

The best bulb (arguably) is the Osram 66240CBI. It's a 5000K bulb, but unlike other higher temp bulbs, it does not lose any light output compared to the 85122+s. In fact, many feel they are brighter (though they are not advertised to be). Some testing (not completely scientific, but IMO good enough for our purposes) seems to indicate they might actually be closer to 4000 lumens. I personally found these bulbs brighten up quite a bit after the initial break in (25-50 hours).

Osram also sells a bulb called the 66240SVS. These bulbs are 4200K, but they're extremely bright - officially rated for 4200lm iirc. Most powerful DOT legal bulb, period. Even brighter than the Philips DL35 which isn't technically road legal in the first place

[das boots]

Great input. Learn some more....Thanks.

[das boots]

I replaced the hologens to Bi-Xenons. I already did the wiring required for the Xenons. Upon testing, Xenons work. However, they flicker continously. The flickering would stop momentarily when I step on the brakes. But would resume to blink/flicker. Does this look like what happens before I have the Xenons coded/programmed? At least I know I wired it correctly. Oh yeah.....the halogens work when I flash or when I switch to High Beam. And would require alignment. I have an appointment tomorrow for programming.

Along this line, would there be anything I should know or need to have programmed for something I do not have???? I don't even know what else the ZHP is supposed to do......LOL. Thanks.