Who Has Replaced Their Adjuster Unit (DISA)?

[Hornung418]

So I am wondering how many of us have replaced, repaired or have had to deal with a faulty DISA unit. Check off the answer that best suits you in the poll and post how much you've paid to have it fixed if applicable.

And I'll just leave this here for any that are interested:

DISA Valve Repair Kit (http://www.germanautosolutions.com/DISA_Valve_Repair_Kit.html): $75 plus shipping

DISA DIY (http://germanautosolutions.com/DISA_DIY.html)

From e46Fanatics: aggieE46 has made a nice DIY to truly examine the repair kit first hand
DIY: German Auto Solutions DISA Repair Rebuild (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?p=14416952#post14416952)

[cakM3]

I just ordered a new DISA and replaced mine. It was very easy to do :thumbsup

here's a video I referenced when I replaced mine: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dhw6UpjhPXg (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dhw6UpjhPXg)

[kpro]

I replaced mine the day before I sold my car. It was rattling pretty bad. I paid $200 or so for it at the dealership.

[ryankokesh]

I've taken mine out and examined it, but haven't repaired or replaced it. Very simple to do. What're the symptoms of a bad DISA?

[Hornung418]

I am pretty sure that mine is fine, but I'm thinking preventative maintenance down the road will be nice. I haven't inspected it since I installed it 10k miles ago when I swapped the B30 Manifold.

Ryan, It's pretty hard to tell audibly when your DISA is bad. You might be able to hear it rattling. Usually what I've read, is that the O-ring at the base of the flap will fail causing lean codes and when it is inspected, it's usually failed all together.

[Au2bahn]

I have no DISA.

[Nivo]

I did the repair kit, more so for strength against boost then maintenance.

[danewilson77]

Replaced mine....1 week after purchase. On my car....and the black 330Ci.

[Hornung418]

I have no DISA.
:rofl...we know, and we're all jealous!!


I did the repair kit, more so for strength against boost then maintenance.
I figured you would have altered yours, Nivo. Did you use the G.A.S. kit in the links above?

[cakM3]

I have no DISA.

Someday Jon.....someday :)

[johnnyrad]

Did the xi but not the z. Paid $201.65 from ECS Tuning. DIY was easy. No symptoms, but when I took out the original one the flap was spinning freely..prolly not what it's supposed to do..hehe.

[Hornung418]

Johnny, Did you trash the old DISA? That's a prime candidate to rebuild and install, or sell for a profit!!

[johnnyrad]

Johnny, Did you trash the old DISA? That's a prime candidate to rebuild and install, or sell for a profit!!

No I still have it..Profit you say? ding ding let's start the bidding do I hear 25 25 25..

[Au2bahn]

:rofl...we know, and we're all jealous!!

;-) . I didnt get to see you last Sunday Justin.




[QUOTE=cakM3;179383]Someday Jon.....someday :)

Remember, all you have to do is buy the SC and I will install it for you. :-)


Sent from my DROID RAZR

[Hornung418]

Yeah, we weren't exactly early risers LOL

Johnny, if you repair it you could make an easy profit, because it's superior to OEM and it would be cost effective, too!

[cakM3]

Remember, all you have to do is buy the SC and I will install it for you. :-)


Sent from my DROID RAZR

Don't worry Jon.....when that time comes I will bring everything.....including the steaks for the BBQ afterwards ;)

[Au2bahn]

Yeeaaaaah buudddy!!!



[QUOTE=Au2bahn;179399]

Don't worry Jon.....when that time comes I will bring everything.....including the steaks for the BBQ afterwards ;)

[Nivo]

I figured you would have altered yours, Nivo. Did you use the G.A.S. kit in the links above?

Yes, the G.A.S. kit is the one. I got one of their first batch runs.

[llll1l1ll]

I replaced mine with one from ECS Tuning or something like that. It wasn't 200 bucks by any means. It took me about 20 minutes. It was super easy - way easier than I anticipated.

For the record, my old DISA spinner flap had broken off from where the motor turns it. It was just barely hanging on by the pin. It was rattling before that but when it broke that thing freaked out.

[Hornung418]

Thanks Nivo.

Good to know, Pete!
I'm probably going to pull mine this week and inspect out of boredom lol.

Sent from my P.O.S. DroidX

[Whitexi]

Looked at mine a few years ago, I am afraid to touch it again now lol with all these stories but it appeared fine and is the 200k original as far as I know.

I only removed it to clean the icv.

[JohnnyGraphic]

Mine was replaced under warranty a while back when they did the software fix. Geez, memory must be getting bad-I can't even remember what that whole thing was about! LOL! But, they had to send the whole ZHP brain to New Jersey for fixing.

Johnny

[iZHP]

Had mine replaced. It was causing a rich mixture, and codes. It was stuck open, I believe.


-Sent via iPhone 4S

[jayjay_dee]

Justin, your poll is missing an option... I inspected mine and no need to replace it... so i ticked "What's a DISA?" lol...

I think i mentioned my story to some members during the SIG-Fest, that it took me close to 4 hours when i did my Disa inspection, ICV and Throttle body cleaning... Long story short, make sure you have a strong magnet on a stick just in case a part slipped thru your already greasy hand and you have no jack to lift you car with... and yes, i had scars on my hand... :rofl

And yes, that youtube video showing he did it in less than 30 minutes is like a tv commercial, so not true in real life, hahaha...

[quikryptonite]

And yes, that youtube video showing he did it in less than 30 minutes is like a tv commercial, so not true in real life, hahaha...

I bet. After I watch a DIY, I always have to figure on doing it in about twice as long, or longer. Ha ha.

[Oli77]

Justin, your poll is missing an option... I inspected mine and no need to replace it... ..

Same boat here. Inspected and it was fine (dirty) and spring-loaded (a bit hard to turn - definite resistance there).

But I didn't click on "What's a DISA".

[Hornung418]

Can't edit the poll. No biggie. Just know that there is a better than OEM solution and it's cheaper to repair than replace!

[Oli77]

Right, I know what to do if that sucker starts rattling in there and great big thanks for the links.

But are the symptoms of the DISA going bad responsible for the infamous power dip around 4k rpm or is there more to it?

[Hornung418]

That was the original thought. BMWNA issued a SIB to replace the DISA to that of a newer part no. The idea was that the actuation of the flap caused reverberations to be picked up as a knock or ping by the knock sensors. So the fuel is retarded in order to remedy the 'knocking.'

Now the suggested course of action is to send it to NJ and they will write the DME to supply more fuel at the moment the DISA opens - 4100 rpm - and they stopped replacing the DISA units with newer units. Granted they can still fail and ruin an engine if care is not used upon extraction.

[Oli77]

OK so not only do you need a new or repaired DISA, you also need a DME tweak to get rid of the dip.

[danewilson77]

OK so not only do you need a new or repaired DISA, you also need a DME tweak to get rid of the dip.

Oh man.....

[Hornung418]

Yup. Or you can get a custom dyno tune and that should eliminate the dip as well. I wouldn't replace the DISA unless you know it's broken...and then I'd just repair it with the G.A.S. kit.

[Whitexi]

Is it only bad when it makes noise?

[danewilson77]

No. If it doesn't make noise...it could mean the flapper is laying in your intake as well. It's best to make an initial inspection.....then monitor sound level.

[Oli77]

Oh man.....

I know. I just now put 2 and 2 together with your Jim Comforti thread.

[danewilson77]

Hehe.....no worries.

[SoCalZman]

for anyone who is less than confident with their mechanical abilities (like me), but still want the upgrade, I just saw on the GAS website they sell their kits pre installed. If I need it, I think thats the route I would go.

[Hornung418]

for anyone who is less than confident with their mechanical abilities (like me), but still want the upgrade, I just saw on the GAS website they sell their kits pre installed. If I need it, I think thats the route I would go.
Yeah, I saw that as well. The "Gold Edition." Unfortunately I think the $300 price tag is very steep! I would just find someone who can read the instructions and pay them a lil something on the side and save the $200 for a rainy day.

[Jesse M]

Original disa here @ 115k works great.

Sent using telepathy.

[Whitexi]

No. If it doesn't make noise...it could mean the flapper is laying in your intake as well. It's best to make an initial inspection.....then monitor sound level.

That's fantastic!

[Whitexi]

I thought that the flapper couldn't just fall out? I thought I read the pin can move so far but it then gets stopped by the intake groove in there?

It's upon removal that the pin could be lost etc. mine had never made noise so for the flap to fall off i would believe I would have heard it. I will take a look when I get a chance and it isn't raining for once.

[danewilson77]

I thought that the flapper couldn't just fall out? I thought I read the pin can move so far but it then gets stopped by the intake groove in there?

It's upon removal that the pin could be lost etc. mine had never made noise so for the flap to fall off i would believe I would have heard it. I will take a look when I get a chance and it isn't raining for once.

Several have found the butterfly valve laying in their intake.

Sent from a Thunderbolt

[kayger12]

I had never heard of that G.A.S. kit before reading this thread.

Will be ordering it today.

[llll1l1ll]

I would definitely check your DISA before the butterfly valves decides to fly away into the depths of your intake. It only leads to more aggravation.

[Whitexi]

This thread saddens me lol. I will see maybe later today.

Would you throw a engine lite or would the car run like crap at all?

[WOLFN8TR]

106,000 miles with original DISA.

There is a guy over on E46 Fanatics that has a hook up with a vendor that can get OEM DISA's for $165 shipped IIRC.

Also as stated earlier even thou you don't have any rattle you might want to do some preventative maintenance and check it out. If the pin from the flap gets sucked into the intake that could be bad.

The G.A.S kit looks solid! Gonna order asap.
http://img.tapatalk.com/a6935999-428b-b47b.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/a6935999-42a3-1246.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/a6935999-42b0-d6e6.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/a6935999-42c0-2aea.jpg

[jayjay_dee]

Just ordered the "Mother of All O-rings" from GAS... :rofl

When I checked my Disa, the orange O-ring was already flat and I think it would be better to replace it with a new one...

[SoCalZman]

do any of these failures ever cause a check engine light? What conditions, if so?

[Hornung418]

You really won't get a light from a failed DISA...however, what you will get is a significant loss of low end torque. Should feel like you're bogging down.

Glad I could be of assistance to you guys. I've been following Brady's thread on Fanatics religiously and his DIY was his latest post.

[WOLFN8TR]

Had mine replaced. It was causing a rich mixture, and codes. It was stuck open, I believe.


I would say yes on the "Check Engine Light".

[WOLFN8TR]

Hornung you beat me to it.

Strange it wouldn't set off the check engine light.

[johnrando]

You really won't get a light from a failed DISA...however, what you will get is a significant loss of low end torque. Should feel like you're bogging down.

Glad I could be of assistance to you guys. I've been following Brady's thread on Fanatics religiously and his DIY was his latest post.

Hmmm, I got low end torque issues, figured it was VANOS. Gonna do that first, and add checking the DISA. Seems 56K miles is kinda early for that to go out though.

[llll1l1ll]

When my DISA gave up I got a check engine light within 15 miles.

[Hornung418]

Hmm I guess that if the valve is stuck open it will cause a light, but if it is lose or broken then it wouldn't throw a light.

Those that had a CEL/SES can you confirm?

[SoCalZman]

When my DISA gave up I got a check engine light within 15 miles.

What code was it, out of curiousity?

[danewilson77]

When my DISA gave up I got a check engine light within 15 miles.

Agree....it should pop a code. Usually a lean code, P0171/0174....I think.

Sent from a Thunderbolt

[Hornung418]

Agree....it should pop a code. Usually a lean code, P0171/0174....I think.

Sent from a Thunderbolt
I thought that was due to the lower seal being broken?

[danewilson77]

I thought that was due to the lower seal being broken?

What lower seal? Many discrepancies can throw that/those code/s.

When car is running and less than 3750 rpms, disa is supposed to be shut. If disa flapped is broken, and dislodged, I think it acts like any unmetered air flow issue.



Sent from a Thunderbolt

[Hornung418]

Hmmm. Makes sense to me!

[WOLFN8TR]

Noticed G.A.S is working on a Oil Separator kit. Nice!
They should make a Viton OFH gasket.

[Hornung418]

I'm actually most interested in the 3.5 inch Cable Driven Throttle Body that's a direct bolt on for M54B30 Manifolds...

Unsure weather or not it can or will retain Cruise Control and DSC Capabilities...

[Whitexi]

So because of this thread I went an bought a magnetic snake tool and will be taking out my disa this Saturday. If its good ill be amazed, it got 200,000 miles on it.

[SoCalZman]

So because of this thread I went an bought a magnetic snake tool and will be taking out my disa this Saturday. If its good ill be amazed, it got 200,000 miles on it.

Let us know how it goes. Pics of said DISA too!

[Hornung418]

Sorry Ry!!! :biggrin

[danewilson77]

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=616594

Available @ http://germanautosolutions.com/DISA_Valve_Repair_Kit.html

I'm actually pretty interested in the "1 Bar" engine coolant cap as well.

[Whitexi]

Let us know how it goes. Pics of said DISA too!

Iphone pic's will be posted! Last time I took it out it was crusty I believe.



Sorry Ry!!! :biggrin

Its ok lmao, you see I always worry about the disa to be honest. Then you started the thread and all these story's has me pondering. So all though I don't want to know. I want to know, if that makes sense.

[iZHP]

Correct Dane, it was a code for running lean, although I don't know the exact code number. It threw a code almost instantly on the morning it went out.

Coincidently (or not), I replaced the intake boot at the same time. It had a few tiny cracks in it.

This was at 108,891 miles.


-Sent via iPhone 4S

[danewilson77]

^Good data for the failure thread. Please add.

[kayger12]

G.A.S. DISA repair kit ordered.

[Hornung418]

Solid!

Sent from my P.O.S. DroidX

[llll1l1ll]

Agree....it should pop a code. Usually a lean code, P0171/0174....I think.

Sent from a Thunderbolt

I don't remember exactly what code it was, but I'm pretty sure it was running lean because I could hear the extra air flowing through (as silly as that sounds). Basically, the seal broke on it and with the flap not functioning, a ton of air was going through.

[Hornung418]

4251

I've been emailing Gary at G.A.S. about his Throttle Body and I mentioned the interest here for their repair kit. In his last email he asked me to mention that "As long as [I'm] posting hypotheticals on the forum, see if there would be any interest in a fast acting, entirely electric, all billet DISA valve."

So what say you? This should eliminate any dip if there isn't a "knock" from the Vacuum Pot to be interpreted by the knock sensors...potential performance upgrade!

[SoCalZman]

Can you explain how the DISA valve works now? I thought it was hooked up via an electrical connector now. Or is that vacuum?

[Hornung418]

The best explanation I've ever come across, and one I view fairly frequently, is HERE (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5896498&postcount=15).

I'm not sure how the Billet Unit will operate with out Vacuum to adjust the resonance flap, but I'm interested to see how it would be accomplished.

[zhp43867]

Re-post from another thread!

This:

http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/149/p1060489l.jpg

Replaced this:

http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/1516/p1060492p.jpg

My car's exhaust note is even deeper and she's running like a beast :D

[Hornung418]

DISA (DIfferenzierte SAuganlage - "Differential Air Intake") Interesting...Always wondered why we called it that.

And here's this post, also from The Fest, same thread as the post I shared above.


The diaphragm (when vacuum is applied) and the spring are two opposing forces on the flap. The spring is why the flap is open when you hold the DISA in your hand.

From the videos I linked in a previous post (above) I can see the spring tension on the flap when the guy is forcing the flap closed. He then closes the flap by hand and puts his finger over a small hole where the diaphragm is located. The vacuum seal he creates with his finger forces the flap to remain closed against the tension of the spring.

The electrical portion merely creates/completes the path for the vacuum giving the diaphragm enough "suction" to force the flap close (opposing the spring tension). When you exceed X RPM the 12 VDC is removed thereby opening an "escape root" for the vacuum (basically allowing air into the diaphragm). The tension from the spring then forces the flap open.

When the RPM drops back below the threshold, the 12 VDC is reapplied to the solenoid which then closes the path to allow a vacuum to form again which forces the diaphragm to close the flap.

"As soon as the solenoid valve switches (on dropping below the switching speed) the vacuum reservoir and vacuum unit..." (I believe the vacuum unit to be where the spring and diaphragm are located) "...are reconnected and the connecting flap closed." NOTE: As I have not held a DISA in my hand yet I am unsure as to the location of the "vacuum reservoir".

There is much more to the DISA than meets the eye. Although the parts that comprise the DISA are not expensive individually, I can better appreciate the cost. The reality is it is amazing that so many plastic moving parts and the rubber diaphragm hold up as long as they do under such extreme pressure, vibration, and temperature variations (below freezing to above boiling point of H2O).

I no longer view the DISA as an overpriced cheap piece of plastic. It's moving parts appear to last over ten years and over 100,000 miles under extreme; pressure, vibrations, and temperature variation. The DISA alone is engineered better than most American cars (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=514543#) (sad fact).

Also, normal rubber would dry up and crack within a year under these conditions yet the diaphragm retains its properties for a decade or more (hot or cold).

[zhpnsnv]

Only $75? Would it make sense to do this with the dr vanos?

[kayger12]

Only $75? Would it make sense to do this with the dr vanos?

Doesn't really matter.

Can do the disa kit for you whenever.

Mine just shipped today.

I wish this was sent with a Galaxy S3

[WOLFN8TR]

DISA + VANOS= Happy ZHP.

[zhpnsnv]

Doesn't really matter.

Can do the disa kit for you whenever.

Mine just shipped today.

I wish this was sent with a Galaxy S3

Got it. I hope jersey graphite wants a full detail cause I'm gonna force the issue.

[kayger12]

Lol, totally not necessary. I'm a cheap date. Beer and intelligent conversation are worth their weight in gold around here.

Add in some Top Gun and Dumb and Dumber quotes, and it'll be like Christmas.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UnkefjCES-4

[MrMaico]

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=616594

Available @ http://germanautosolutions.com/DISA_Valve_Repair_Kit.html

I'm actually pretty interested in the "1 Bar" engine coolant cap as well.

In case anyone missed it in Danes Bfest link, here is the link to Garys original repair kit development thread....

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=588505&highlight=german+auto+solutions

[Whitexi]

I took out the diss and snapped two pics. It was dirty a bit but does have 200k on it. Has minimal to no play and the pin was seated tight.

It failed the vaccum test though. It held sorta but not fully.


4258

4259

[kayger12]

Not bad for 200k.

I wish this was sent with a Galaxy S3

[Hornung418]

Vacuum test fail means time for a new/replacement DISA. I suggest finding one on the cheap, and rebuilding it with the G.A.S kit.

Sent from my P.O.S. DroidX

[Nivo]

I've been emailing Gary at G.A.S. about his Throttle Body and I mentioned the interest here for their repair kit. In his last email he asked me to mention that "As long as [I'm] posting hypotheticals on the forum, see if there would be any interest in a fast acting, entirely electric, all billet DISA valve."

So what say you? This should eliminate any dip if there isn't a "knock" from the Vacuum Pot to be interpreted by the knock sensors...potential performance upgrade!


As long as the flap closing does not resonate much it can work, the drawback I see is the complete thing being aluminum and the rapid closing of the valve.

The current DISA is slow to close as shown in the dip. The more I read and the more I look at dyno data I start to notice that most of the cars that have the dip fix they low end torque drops a few lb-ft.

I have my dyno excel sheet and this is what I show from the slow closing plastic DISA.
A faster all electronic valve will reduce the dip time in rpms when this event happens.

4263

[jayjay_dee]

Re-post from another thread!

http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/149/p1060489l.jpg



I got my blue O-ring this afternoon and installed it tonight, so mine looks exactly like above (except the redesingned flap)...
When I still had the flat orange O-ring, my DISA valve can be pulled easily and same thing when putting it back.
Now with the new O-ring, it takes a bit of effort to shove it in...

Will test drive my car tomorrow and see it there is any difference....

[Strider]

Is there a mileage interval that should be followed for inspection and replacement?

[danewilson77]

Is there a mileage interval that should be followed for inspection and replacement?

I would say def replace no later than 75k miles. Mine failed at 98k.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2

[Hornung418]

I would do your initial inspection when you get the car. Along with a filter check, MAF cleaning, upper and lower boot inspection/replacement if necessary, TB and ICV cleaning as well. Just to make sure that the intake tract is free of leaks and tears. After that, I check mine every time I change my oil.

[danewilson77]

I would do your initial inspection when you get the car. Along with a filter check, MAF cleaning, upper and lower boot inspection/replacement if necessary, TB and ICV cleaning as well. Just to make sure that the intake tract is free of leaks and tears. After that, I check mine every time I change my oil.

I like the initial inspection idea as well.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2

[Blaster3500]

My DISA was replaced a little after 100k according to the PO's service records. I assume it failed. I will have to pull it out when I get a change to make sure everything looks ok.

[Mr Paul]

I repaired my DISA tonight with the G.A.S. kit. The online instructions were easy to follow and the rebuild was simple to do. I only drove the car briefly afterwards, but my 4k dip seems less pronounced and low RPM power delivery seems smoother. I give this kit an A+.

I had 94,800 miles on my valve and it had some rotational free play (maybe 20*) but the diaphragm was good and the pin was fully seated. I could hear it rattling easily at idle. Now all is quiet.

[WOLFN8TR]

My DISA Valve now hums for a minute or two after I shut the car off. Is this a sign to rebuild it asap?

[ryankokesh]

Is that what that noise is?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Hornung418]

I think that hum has been documented before. IIRC, it's the solenoid releasing it's charge. I'll have to look that one up. I'm pretty sure that's natural.

[WOLFN8TR]

I think that hum has been documented before. IIRC, it's the solenoid releasing it's charge. I'll have to look that one up. I'm pretty sure that's natural.

Ya that's what it is. What's strange thou is it use to stay on (humming) for maybe 30 seconds, now it's 1-2 minutes. I'm gonna order the GAS kit and rebuild that sucker. I do like the idea of being able to return the kit if the solenoid etc. goes bad later on in the DISA valve towards a replacement.



G.A.S Warranty:

If any other part of your DISA valve fails within 5 years of purchase date, we will credit 100% of your original purchase price toward a brand new OEM DISA valve with the upgrade kit already installed. This warranty includes failure of any DISA component, including the vacuum pot, electric vacuum solenoid and bell crank seal.

[Mr Paul]

Is that what that noise is?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine rattled at idle. You could hear it with the hood closed, but with it open it was really pronounced. If I unplugged the electrical connector on the DISA the rattling would totally stop.

It's quiet now, though!

[WOLFN8TR]

Does anyone know or have expierenced a bad hesitation accelerating hard from a stand still? Is this DISA Valve related? First time it happened. The GAS kit is in the mail.

[danewilson77]

Does anyone know or have expierenced a bad hesitation accelerating hard from a stand still? Is this DISA Valve related? First time it happened. The GAS kit is in the mail.

What RPM?

[johnrando]

Does anyone know or have expierenced a bad hesitation accelerating hard from a stand still? Is this DISA Valve related? First time it happened. The GAS kit is in the mail.

I've had that, figured it's part of the VANOS issue, which is on my list to do.

[WOLFN8TR]

It's the first time I ever had it do that. Yesterday I was sitting at a light, light turned green and kinda accelerated hard and it almost stalled out. It was very brief thou and hasn't done it since.

[kayger12]

Received my G.A.S. kit yesterday.

Was planning on banging it out with the vanos rebuild tomorrow, but that might be getting bumped for pool opening.

No matter what I do, the day will involve tools and beer...

[webster]

just added the GAS kit to my future maintenace list. not sure i'm suffering any DISA symptoms but then again i have never inspected it.

[terraphantm]

I don't have a DISA either :innocent

But on my old ZHP I replaced it around 65k miles. It was rattling before that.

[WOLFN8TR]

I've had that, figured it's part of the VANOS issue, which is on my list to do.

Hopefully it's not caused by the VANOS beings I rebuilt it 6 months ago. Got the G.A.S Disa Valve kit coming. Hopefully that's the issue.

[WOLFN8TR]

Just received the G.A.S kit. Looks solid, can't wait to get it installed.

[johnrando]

Gary, keep us posted, would love to hear if it removes that hesitation. Have you had it again?

[WOLFN8TR]

Gary, keep us posted, would love to hear if it removes that hesitation. Have you had it again?

Will do, gonna install it this weekend. No hasn't done it again.

[MrMaico]

It's the first time I ever had it do that. Yesterday I was sitting at a light, light turned green and kinda accelerated hard and it almost stalled out. It was very brief thou and hasn't done it since.

That almost sounds like some kind of fluke. Maybe a bit of water in your fuel tank that worked its way through the fuel system. Might want to pick up a bottle of isopropyl alcohol and dump it in the tank. I'd be surprised if it was Disa related.

[WOLFN8TR]

Going out to install the G.A.S kit in my DISA.

Found this while searching beforehand:

Listed below are the codes that are caused by a broken Intake Manifold Runner Valve/Adjuster Unit.
Ignore these codes after changing your broken or damage Intake Manifold Runner Valve/adjuster Unit these codes will be gone.

P0171 = Fuel Trim, Bank1 System too Lean
P0174 = Fuel Trim, Bank2 System too Lean
P0300 = Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0313 = Misfire Detected Low Fuel Level
P0741 = Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off
P1083 = Fuel Control Mixture Lean (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P1085 = Fuel Control Mixture Lean (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P1342 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 1
P1346 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 3
P1348 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 4
P1350 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 5
P1352 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 6

Good DISA Info Link --> CLICK HERE (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=573548&highlight=disa+valve)

[danewilson77]

Great info Wolfy.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2

[WOLFN8TR]

Great info Wolfy.

Thanks... Like your Avatar Photo!

Well I ran into some issues, "Big Time" issues!

First- I almost could not get the DISA out, the last ass that installed my DISA used forma gasket instead of a new oring! I kid you not it was like it was glued in!

Second- My entire intake is coated with sand! All the intake walls, DISA etc all coated with sand.

Third- This DISA looks new, except the dam oring is gone and coated with forma gasket.

I checked my air box, intake hoses etc, I can not find where the dirt/sand is getting in. Maybe it originally went in thru the DISA beings the oring was shot. This is one of those moments where you just want to scream!!!

Any advice or input would be greatly appreciated.

http://img.tapatalk.com/48c1efc4-e3af-6ef2.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/48c1efc4-e3bb-5424.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/48c1efc4-e3d1-f5a2.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/48c1efc4-e3de-429f.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/48c1efc4-e3ea-a0a1.jpg

[danewilson77]

Get a new oring for the disa.

Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2

[WOLFN8TR]

Get a new oring for the disa.

I have the Fluorosilicone Replacement O-Ring.

Dane what are your thoughts on this? I would put money on a previously shot DISA oring but who knows really? :dunno

This just makes me sick man...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYMdJYAR7vM&feature=plcp

[kayger12]

Boy. Never like to see that.

I think you'll be good with the new o-ring.

Any chance you Blackstoned your last oil change?

[WOLFN8TR]

Boy. Never like to see that.

I think you'll be good with the new o-ring.

Any chance you Blackstoned your last oil change?

No I sure didn't, wish I would of now thou.

[danewilson77]

I don't think it's as big of a deal as some might think. Someone prior to you was probably shitty on replacing intake filter. That sand/grit will most likely stay where it is. You will never get i all out. I would leave it alone....and go for G.A.S. kit, or just get a new o-ring for your disa if you are confident in it.

Like kg said.....hit up Blackstone soon for added confidence.

[WOLFN8TR]

I don't think it's as big of a deal as some might think. Someone prior to you was probably shitty on replacing intake filter. That sand/grit will most likely stay where it is. You will never get i all out. I would leave it alone....and go for G.A.S. kit, or just get a new o-ring for your disa if you are confident in it.

Like kg said.....hit up Blackstone soon for added confidence.

Thats actually why I took it out to install the G.A.S kit. Ya I think your right, not much I can do about it now. Cudos on the G.A.S kit! My DISA valve actually appeared to be fairly new and operated fine. After installing this kit it really works alot smoother and the quality is top notch. Can't wait to see how the car runs now.

Here are some photos of the intake and the DISA with the G.A.S kit installed.

http://img.tapatalk.com/48c1efc4-0816-2556.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/48c1efc4-0826-86eb.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/48c1efc4-0841-0132.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/48c1efc4-085d-ff0a.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/48c1efc4-0873-21dc.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/48c1efc4-088a-3ce9.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/48c1efc4-089e-b527.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/48c1efc4-08d2-8a8c.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/48c1efc4-08f1-c07e.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/48c1efc4-0902-0ddf.jpg

[Hornung418]

Nice work, Gary! I wonder if you can get rid of the sand by running some SeaFoam or getting out the vacuum or some compressed air and blasting out the manifold.

[WOLFN8TR]

I think the only way to clean it all out properly would be to take off the intake manifold. It's stuck to all the oil inside the manifold.

[johnrando]

Sheesh! Glad the GAS kit worked for you.

[WOLFN8TR]

Me too otherwise it would of been a really bad day.

[WOLFN8TR]

First test drive this morning, noticeable difference. Kinda surprised beings my old DISA wasn't bad at all.

[jayjay_dee]

Gary, good to hear you are getting positive results...

I only bought the blue O-ring and me thinks my car is more responsive and peppier... Its either it really works or just placebo effect kicking in...

Either way, im happy...

[WOLFN8TR]

If your original oring was as flat and dried up as mine I'm sure that new one will seal alot better. Of course mine had a layer of forma gasket all over it.




Bayerische-Motoren-Werke

[HokieZHP]

So I just read this whole thread, is there any way to be certain if my DISA is failed? I saw that it could cause a loss of low end torque but if mine failed before I got the car, I wouldn't know. Are there any other symptoms?

[Hornung418]

Not really, just gotta take it out and inspect it. Pretty simple task, Chris. :thumbsup

Sent from my P.O.S. DroidX

[danewilson77]

So I just read this whole thread, is there any way to be certain if my DISA is failed? I saw that it could cause a loss of low end torque but if mine failed before I got the car, I wouldn't know. Are there any other symptoms?

Yeah......take it out like Horney stated.

Look for the play in the flapper valve, a broken flapper valve, low resistance in the flapper valve, degraded "spring back" in the flapper valve, loss of vacuum symptoms in the DISA mechanism (fellas who have gotten the G.A.S. kit can explain this one. I believe the directions tell you to perform this), and the degraded o-ring symptoms.

[WOLFN8TR]

Not really, just gotta take it out and inspect it. Pretty simple task, Chris. :thumbsup

Sent from my P.O.S. DroidX

Ya unless it was glued in with frickin forma gasket like mine! Almost couldn't get it out.

[Hornung418]

RTV was one of the suggested fixes if you had a leak.

Sent from my P.O.S. DroidX

[danewilson77]

RTV was one of the suggested fixes if you had a leak.

Sent from my P.O.S. DroidX

Yes.

[WOLFN8TR]

So I just read this whole thread, is there any way to be certain if my DISA is failed? I saw that it could cause a loss of low end torque but if mine failed before I got the car, I wouldn't know. Are there any other symptoms?

I had a slight stumble accelerating from a dead stop.
Slight loss of low end torque.
Flat spot between 2800-3000 rpm's.

Funny thing is my DISA valve didn't look bad when I took it out. Also it couldn't have been leaking with all the RTV on it. The car does run alot better overall, which is surprising considering it wasn't wore out or broken. It was a very easy to do and for $75 ($86 with the fancy oring) you can't go wrong!


Bayerische-Motoren-Werke

[HokieZHP]

I'm going to detail another truck today so I'll see if I can take the DISA out and look at it. Thanks for the info guys

[danewilson77]

I'm going to detail another truck today so I'll see if I can take the DISA out and look at it. Thanks for the info guys

Trucks don't have DISA :shifty

[S85FTW]

I have experienced a rather odd situation lately. My mechanic has a 540 wagon that he noticed this strange duck noise under the hood under acceleration. This occurred occasionally. Sure enough I told him to pull out the disa. He did, we looked, no cracks, seals looked good, but when I turned the flap it stuck open. After a few times of flipping it back and forth we were able to replicate that duck noise. The spring or lubricated section that sits underneath the rubber grommet of the valve had been worn out tithe point where it was a lot harder to flap it open and shut. At first glance the disa seemed in top shape. So always thoroughly examine when you pull. We were lucky to have the replacement right there so we compared new vs old and it snapped open and shut so much quicker.

I never experienced the duck noise but my idle was horrible when this thing went.

[Hornung418]

Kris, was that a V8? AFAIK they didn't have a DISA. Usually a duck noise is indicative of a failed CCV.

Sent from Branson, MO.

[S85FTW]

Kris, was that a V8? AFAIK they didn't have a DISA. Usually a duck noise is indicative of a failed CCV.

Sent from Branson, MO.

Brain fart, his 528 wagon, his 540 is a sedan. The duck noise was 100% from the disa. When we took it out of the car and turned the flap open and closed rapidly with force, we could reproduce the sound.

[Hornung418]

Yeah the early DISAs are smaller and have a slightly different construction. I wouldn't expect a 330 DISA to replicate the sound the 528 made.

Sent from Branson, MO.

[KevinC]

Ordered the "DISA Gold" new DISA with the upgrades pre-installed. I have some bogging and hesitation from about 2800 to 4k rpm. 53k miles. VANOS may need attention too, but I'll start with the DISA. Love Gary's work and long thread at Bimmerfest about its creation. Will report results once installed.

[WOLFN8TR]

Oooh the Gold Valve! Nice...
I was very impressed with the quality of Gary's products.
Oh wait he is a Gary that's why. Ha Ha...


Bayerische-Motoren-Werke

[johnrando]

Always the comedian! :) I decided to go Gold too so I wouldn't have to wonder about a bad DISA.

[HokieZHP]

Can someone repost that link that explained what the DISA valve does with the diagrams and such? I remember seeing it but can't find it now.

Thanks!

[Hornung418]

Chris I posted that. I can't remember where I posted it, ut the link is on bimmerfest in the e39 subforum. Look for DISA in there.

Sent from Branson, MO.

[danewilson77]

The resonance system provides increased engine torque at low RPM, as well as additional power at high RPM. Both of these features are obtained by using a resonance flap (in the intake manifold) controlled by the ECM.

During the low to mid range rpm, the resonance flap is closed (i.e., the flap is actuated by alternator voltage such that it is held vertically against spring tension). This produces a long/single intake tube for velocity, which increases engine torque.

During mid range to high rpm, the resonance flap is open (i.e, the control voltage is reduced to zero which causes the flap to return to the horizontal rest position due to spring tension) . This allows the intake air to pull through both resonance tubes, providing the air volume necessary for additional power at the upper RPM range.

When the flap is closed, this creates another "dynamic" effect. For example, as the intake air is flowing into cylinder #1, the intake valves will close. This creates a "roadblock" for the in rushing air. The air flow will stop and expand back (resonance wave back pulse) with the in rushing air to cylinder #5. The resonance "wave", along with the intake velocity, enhances cylinder filling.

The ECM controls a (magnetic) solenoid valve for resonance flap activation. At speeds below 3750 RPM, the solenoid valve is energized (with alternator voltage at the harness connector) and vacuum supplied from an accumulator closes the resonance flap (where the vacuum accumulator is apparently a one-way flap valve with a 1/16" entrance hole in the side of the DISA) . This channels the intake air through one resonance tube, but increases the intake velocity.

When the engine speed is greater than 4100 RPM (which varies slightly - temperature influenced), the solenoid is de-energized (i.e., the harness control signal goes from ~13.8 volts DC to zero volts DC) The resonance flap is sprung open (by spring tension), allowing flow through both resonance tubes, increasing volume.

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/attachment-1.png

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/attachment-1-1.png

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/attachment-2.png

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/attachment-3-1.png

[WOLFN8TR]

I decided to go Gold too so I wouldn't have to wonder about a bad DISA.

Awesome! I had to go the poor mans route.


Bayerische-Motoren-Werke

[webster]

Ordered the "DISA Gold" new DISA with the upgrades pre-installed. I have some bogging and hesitation from about 2800 to 4k rpm. 53k miles. VANOS may need attention too, but I'll start with the DISA. Love Gary's work and long thread at Bimmerfest about its creation. Will report results once installed.

bought the same thing today as well. looking forward to the results after install.

[johnrando]

bought the same thing today as well. looking forward to the results after install.

Got one too, maybe this weekend install.

[WOLFN8TR]

Well my "slight stumble accelerating from a dead stop" didn't go away after the DISA rebuild. Did it again today when I accelerated hard when the light turned green, the car almost stalled out. I was running low on fuel, filled up all the way and it did it right after that.

Water in gas or a plugged fuel filter?

[Hornung418]

When does it occur?

Sent from the past from my future self.

[WOLFN8TR]

Today i ran the car pretty low in gas, 22 miles left. Filled up and drove a few miles. Was sitting at the light to get on the freeway. Light turned green and I hit the gas pretty quick and car almost died. This is only the second time its done it.


Bayerische-Motoren-Werke

[Hornung418]

Sorry Gary, I should ask when in the RPM range this occurs. There is a chance that your O2 sensors need to be adjusted with a DME flash for the latest tune. The stumble occurs at 2800-3000 RPM.

Sent from the past from my future self.

[danewilson77]

Today i ran the car pretty low in gas, 22 miles left. Filled up and drove a few miles. Was sitting at the light to get on the freeway. Light turned green and I hit the gas pretty quick and car almost died. This is only the second time its done it.


Bayerische-Motoren-Werke

Maybe fuel pump (self lubricated) is starting to go.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

[johnrando]

Sorry Gary, I should ask when in the RPM range this occurs. There is a chance that your O2 sensors need to be adjusted with a DME flash for the latest tune. The stumble occurs at 2800-3000 RPM.

Sent from the past from my future self.

How is this done? Is this the "send back to Jersey" for a flash of the DME, or is there a way to adjust the sensors?

[Hornung418]

Just a normal flash at the dealer.

[WOLFN8TR]

Just a normal flash at the dealer.

Cool...How much do they nail ya for?


Bayerische-Motoren-Werke

[Hornung418]

1 hr of labor.

Sent from the past from my future self.

[WOLFN8TR]

Roger that.


Bayerische-Motoren-Werke

[KevinC]

My new DISA Gold... waiting for my DrVanos rebuild to show up, then it will all go in, along with new OEM Sachs shocks/struts, in the next week or so. This thing is off the hook, the gold flap is badass!

http://allhailbrak.smugmug.com/Cars/BMW-330Ci/i-bdfGPV9/0/X2/IMG3313-X2.jpg

[WOLFN8TR]

That's real Nice! 14k or 24k?


Bayerische-Motoren-Werke

[danewilson77]

I think this is a good time for anyone who meticulously maintains their E46 to buy either the rebuild kit or the Gold valve itself.

This is an "Introductory" price, and as it becomes more popular in the the future....I assume the kit price will go up.

I can see G.A.S. charging $150 ($82.00 now) for this....as it would still be less than a new valve.

[WOLFN8TR]

Ya I would bet it will double in price as the demand for his products go up.


Bayerische-Motoren-Werke

[webster]

my Gold valve should arrive today per USPS tracking. stoke'd

[WOLFN8TR]

my Gold valve should arrive today per USPS tracking. stoke'd

Awesome!

[MrMaico]

I think this is a good time for anyone who meticulously maintains their E46 to buy either the rebuild kit or the Gold valve itself.

This is an "Introductory" price, and as it becomes more popular in the the future....I assume the kit price will go up.

I can see G.A.S. charging $150 ($82.00 now) for this....as it would still be less than a new valve.

OK......You talked me into it Dane. :-) I only have about 30k on my Disa but I am curious to see if it might have any effect on my mild 4000 rpm dip like a few of the other guys noticed when they installed theirs. Would be nice to eliminate it completely.

Barry

[danewilson77]

OK......You talked me into it Dane. :-) I only have about 30k on my Disa but I am curious to see if it might have any effect on my mild 4000 rpm dip like a few of the other guys noticed when they installed theirs. Would be nice to eliminate it completely.

Barry

Thats the only reason I'm doing it Barry.

[MrMaico]

Thats the only reason I'm doing it Barry.

Maybe I'll wait to hear your results then. I'm a little hesitant to tear apart a relatively low mile Disa if I might not notice any difference. I figured if I don't do it right away I will have it tucked away for the day I do need it. And like you said........the price can only go up.

[webster]

got my "gold" disa package yesterday, only problem was it's not gold! the flapper is just black anodized. is there any difference, or just the color?

[Hornung418]

I need to do this...Hell it's my thread and I haven't even moved on purchasing it yet :rofl.

[danewilson77]

Maybe I'll wait to hear your results then. I'm a little hesitant to tear apart a relatively low mile Disa if I might not notice any difference. I figured if I don't do it right away I will have it tucked away for the day I do need it. And like you said........the price can only go up.

Sounds good. I think I'm gonna do video on the build.


got my "gold" disa package yesterday, only problem was it's not gold! the flapper is just black anodized. is there any difference, or just the color?

Yes...it needs to be yellow from what I know about the product.

[Hornung418]

As long as the flap is anodized aluminum and you get a brand new DISA, then for all intents and purposes, you have the "Gold Valve."

[WOLFN8TR]

Ya it should be the same just Black anodized instead of Gold. Kinda weird the "Gold" valve isn't "Gold".


Bayerische-Motoren-Werke

[danewilson77]

It usually is. That's why I would call.

[Hornung418]

...If it came assembled then what's the issue? Call them, but I bet they were out of stock and just used a regular kit instead of delaying the order to get a gold flap.

[danewilson77]

...If it came assembled then what's the issue? Call them, but I bet they were out of stock and just used a regular kit instead of delaying the order to get a gold flap.

Ok Justin.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

[webster]

installed the new DISA yesterday morning. ended up not caring about the flapper color, it's anodized aluminum and that's what counts.

the original DISA was in decent shape, save for one corner of the flapper which had become deformed and slightly rounded/smoothed off.

upon install, immediately noticed an improvement at idle and letting off the clutch in 1st with no throttle. no more chug-chug-chug as it get's going, it's just buttery smooth.

at WOT, also notice more linearity in the 3-5k rpm range, less "bogging and surging" feel. it's very subtle, but overall i gotta say this product is worth every penny, at least after one day of driving.

[Stu]

I will be rebuilding my DISA if it is in good condition with this:

http://germanautosolutions.com/DISA_Valve_Repair_Kit.html

If it's in poor condition, I will replace it with this:

http://germanautosolutions.com/DISA__GOLD__Valve.html

[WOLFN8TR]

installed the new DISA yesterday morning. ended up not caring about the flapper color, it's anodized aluminum and that's what counts.

the original DISA was in decent shape, save for one corner of the flapper which had become deformed and slightly rounded/smoothed off.

upon install, immediately noticed an improvement at idle and letting off the clutch in 1st with no throttle. no more chug-chug-chug as it get's going, it's just buttery smooth.

at WOT, also notice more linearity in the 3-5k rpm range, less "bogging and surging" feel. it's very subtle, but overall i gotta say this product is worth every penny, at least after one day of driving.

Another satisfied customer, Congrats!


Bayerische-Motoren-Werke

[edlvrt]

I purchased the kit a month ago and finally got around to installing it this afternoon. The only difficult thing was getting the DISA unit off and back onto the manifold. At ~85k miles, my flap and pin were still in place, but the flap was loose and not functioning. As others have reported, the online instructions were clear. A quality kit, and I am looking forward to see if there are any noticeable power gains as others have reported.

[Jesse M]

117k and still works great.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3

[WOLFN8TR]

Bump

[BimmerWill]

Replaced mine with the GAS rebuild kit. Very high quality product. Car definitely feels healthier throughout the rpm range. Great pick if your disa is in bad order but the vacuum pot is still functioning properly. Had a little bit of an issue getting the unit back into the manifold but with a little maneuvering it went back in. Also cleaned up the icv while I was in there. Gonna have to take everything back out again soon though to replace the CCV...

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

[BRGcoopahS]

Replaced mine with the GAS rebuild kit. Very high quality product. Car definitely feels healthier throughout the rpm range. Great pick if your disa is in bad order but the vacuum pot is still functioning properly. Had a little bit of an issue getting the unit back into the manifold but with a little maneuvering it went back in.

Everything he said.

This was my first real maintenance job on the car. I have virtually no experience working on cars and the repair went very well. Nothing hard at all other than getting it back in which wasn't too bad either. For awhile, it got rid of the 4k stumble permanently but now it still has a slight hiccup, although no where near as bad as it was before.

[ecyrb]

i'm also a firm believer in the German Auto Solutions GOLD DISA VALVE. i bought the whole unit, as opposed to rebuilding mine, and my car is SO much smoother in the acceleration in 3-5k rpm's. the 4k rpm plateau is gone. plus, my car feels a little faster with more torque.

very easy to install, it took me 10 minutes to change out the old DISA and install the new one. if you can un-do 2) screws and unclip an electrical connector, it's very quick. the only trick is to not loose the screw off the back of the DISA when you're removing it. be careful here, because if it does fall out, you may have to take off your Intake Manifold to retrieve it.

[ryankokesh]

How much will one of these things run me?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BimmerWill]

How much will one of these things run me?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Standard rebuild kit or the gold version that comes with an entirely new disa?

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

[danewilson77]

http://www.germanautosolutions.com/bmw_solutions/disa_products/index_disa_products.html

KIT = $82.00 shipped

Gold DISA = $312.00 shipped

[ryankokesh]

Not sure which I'd go with... I should probably check first and see that it needs to be repaired, right? I'm guessing it will need to be, but is it possible it may just need to be cleaned?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BimmerWill]

Not sure which I'd go with... I should probably check first and see that it needs to be repaired, right? I'm guessing it will need to be, but is it possible it may just need to be cleaned?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Depending on mileage it is probably on its way out, but yes probably the best first step would be to determine to what extent it is/has failed then go from there. From GAS says the majority of those that have problems can be fixed with just the standard kit. I had just gotten 195k on my car when I did it and the standard kit did just fine fixing the issue.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

[ryankokesh]

Well that's reassuring to hear :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[SoCalZman]

i'm also a firm believer in the German Auto Solutions GOLD DISA VALVE. i bought the whole unit, as opposed to rebuilding mine, and my car is SO much smoother in the acceleration in 3-5k rpm's. the 4k rpm plateau is gone. plus, my car feels a little faster with more torque.

very easy to install, it took me 10 minutes to change out the old DISA and install the new one. if you can un-do 2) screws and unclip an electrical connector, it's very quick. the only trick is to not loose the screw off the back of the DISA when you're removing it. be careful here, because if it does fall out, you may have to take off your Intake Manifold to retrieve it.

It seriously takes 10 minutes to pull the old one out? I really need to check mine

[danewilson77]

It seriously takes 10 minutes to pull the old one out? I really need to check mine

Naaa....maybe 20 minutes your first time.

Do you have Torx?

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

[SoCalZman]

I think I have a set of them in my tool set. I need more than a screw driver huh?

[ecyrb]

you can take your time and still accomplish removing the old DISA within 15 or 20 mins, like Dane said. i've worked extensively on my previous cars so i'm pretty quick to take off/put back on things. i think i did remove the airbox, too, but that was simple enough, and i had done it before. the DIY is on German Auto Solutions' website i think. just read it a few times, maybe keep a copy of it nearby when you're working under the hood. pretty basic job :)

[ecyrb]

and yes, you need a Torx bit to remove the 2 screws on the DISA

[WOLFN8TR]

Not sure which I'd go with... I should probably check first and see that it needs to be repaired, right? I'm guessing it will need to be, but is it possible it may just need to be cleaned?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did my DISA at 100K. Went with the rebuild kit. There was nothing wrong with my DISA but the plastic flap seemed sloppy. My car runs a lot better now and I do not have to worry about the metal pin coming loose and going thru the intake. Well worth the $82.

[Washburn]

i guess 36k miles is too 'young' to worry about this...?

[Crickett]

i guess 36k miles is too 'young' to worry about this...?

Possibly, but if you're ever in there doing an ICV clean, intake boots inspection / replacement, etc. you might as well check it out. :dunno

[WOLFN8TR]

BUMP

[kayger12]

Been sitting on the kit and vanos rebuild material for about 6 months now.

Might take advantage of the unseasonably warm weather and bang it all out this weekend.

Well, either that or April...

Sent from my kick-A Galaxy S3

[echo46]

When I did my CCV refresh I pulled the DISA and took it apart. Everything seemed tight and clean but I did put some electrical tape around it when I replaced it to make sure there was a good tight seal and no vacuum leak. I do check it every six months or so.

[danewilson77]

When I did my CCV refresh I pulled the DISA and took it apart. Everything seemed tight and clean but I did put some electrical tape around it when I replaced it to make sure there was a good tight seal and no vacuum leak. I do check it every six months or so.

There's actually an identified replacement o-ring now. Or the gas kit works. Tape should be fine as well, just wanted to throw that out there.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

[echo46]

Yea, just looked it up. I was just lazy and cheap. Next time I pull it off I will get the kit. Thanks DW.

[johnrando]

Been sitting on the kit and vanos rebuild material for about 6 months now.

Might take advantage of the unseasonably warm weather and bang it all out this weekend.

Well, either that or April...

Sent from my kick-A Galaxy S3

Same here (well, except for the weather part, and I have yet to actually order the VANOS kit yet... just know I need to do it).

[LivesNearCostco]

What are the symptoms of a bad vacuum pot?

[echo46]

I think there are many but a good indicator is RPM stumble at idle.

[LivesNearCostco]

I have a rough idle only after warm start. Rev the engine or push the clutch pedal in for a few seconds and it goes away. Or start driving and it goes away. Maybe I can sneak off the car from work tomorrow before it gets dark, pull the DISA and check the vacuum pot.

[Stewbie]

I replaced mine with the German Auto Solutions "gold" unit (see my DIY in the DIY section). Strangely, I think my idle is rougher since doing it, at least while the engine is warming up. Guess I need to do the plastic bag over the oil filler cap hole test for the CCV valve, and check for cracks in the intake boots.

[Go Horns!]

Replaced with G.A.S. Gold; did the intake boots at the same time. Had a rough idle, but i think had more to do with the gash in the lower intake boot than the DISA. Rough idle and lean codes are gone.

[LivesNearCostco]

Yesterday I pulled the DISA and the flap seems to be in tight, pin is in place, and it springs back when vacuum pot port is uncovered. Springs back only partway when vacuum port is covered. Not sure if it's the original (168K miles) DISA or not. Guess it's about time to order the GAS repair kit for the DISA.

Edit: I meant it springs back all the way if I don't cover the port, but it springs back halfway if I cover the port. Mine looked much like this photo in the GAS DIY instructions
http://germanautosolutions.com/diy_tech/disa_repair_kit/diy_images/Vacuum%20Pot%20Test%202.JPG

[Hornung418]

Yesterday I pulled the DISA and the flat seems to be in tight, springs back when vacuum pot port is uncovered, springs back only partway when vacuum port is covered. Not sure if it's the original or not. Guess it's about time to order the GAS repair kit for the DISA.

If it springs back when you test it covered, it means you have a vacuum leak in the pot. Suggest the gold kit or a new disa and do the repair yourself.

From a GS3, this was sent.

[Pip]

I just did the disa repair yesterday and my operation was exactly as you've described. Probably didn't need the kit just yet but since I had it apart I went for it. It is a great quality kit and Gary provides awesome customer service.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[LivesNearCostco]

Hornung, I edited my post on that to include a photo from the GAS web site. It springs back only partway with port covered, all the way with port covered. Is there anything else that could be broken in my old DISA to make it worth buying the full Gold kit? Or should I just buy the upgrade and try that first? The car does not throw any codes and rough idle is only if I restart it while warm.

[Hornung418]

Ah you're good then, LNC. Thought it wasn't supposed to move at all.

From a GS3, this was sent.

[Stewbie]

Hornung, I edited my post on that to include a photo from the GAS web site. It springs back only partway with port covered, all the way with port covered. Is there anything else that could be broken in my old DISA to make it worth buying the full Gold kit? Or should I just buy the upgrade and try that first? The car does not throw any codes and rough idle is only if I restart it while warm.

I went for the gold rather than the kit because the car is my daily driver. If there was a problem with the kit, I didn't want to be stuck without my wheels. If you go for the gold unit, make sure Gary gives you the tube of silicone grease that comes with the kit. You'll need this to lube up the o-ring on the new unit before you put it back in the intake. He didn't include any with mine, so I had to get a buddy to pick some up for me and I ended up with about 500 times more than I needed.

[Tnhl1989]

I replaced mine in the 330xi when it cause a lot of misfires. At about 105k miles when I purchased the car at 88k miles. I believe the zhp had its DISA already replaced a while ago. I shall double check it when I clean everything.

[mLuMaN83]

Just replaced mine with a new one.

[WOLFN8TR]

http://www.germanautosolutions.com/bmw_solutions/disa_products/index_disa_products.php

[danewilson77]

Crazy that 23 members haven't even inspected their DISA yet :dunno

[328ioc]

I'll admit I have yet to inspect mine :-( I figured at this point I might as well wait till the reunion when I can put expert eyes on it.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[danewilson77]

No worries. Not poking anyone, I was just surprised when I saw that data point at the top of the page.

[328ioc]

I'm not worried just been lazy lately. :-)

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[johnrando]

I hadn't inspected mine as I'm just now over 60K. I do have the Gold one ready for a swap though when I get around to it.

[LivesNearCostco]

None of the poll answers quite fit my situation--inspected DISA and put electrical tape around gasket, will replace or repair with GAS kit later! :-)

[SoCalZman]

I have yet to inspect, but I will. However, once I do I do not see a way to change my vote. Perhaps some members could switch their votes now that they checked their DISA.

[WOLFN8TR]

I hadn't inspected mine as I'm just now over 60K. I do have the Gold one ready for a swap though when I get around to it.
:like

[Dave_B]

Where's the option for Checked DISA, replaced gasket?

Functionally mine works as intended.

[WOLFN8TR]

Functionally mine works as intended.

Functionally my DISA worked fine also, but for $85 you get a kick ass rebuild kit. And you Do Not have to worry about the pin coming out that holds the flap in place and getting sucked into the engine. After rebuilding mine the car ran better and idled smoother.

[Dave_B]

I'm all for preventative items but I don't see the value at this moment. I can't see any noticeable wear and tear and from all of the video's I checked online, the test's I performed showed it was just fine.

Maybe I'll go back soon and actually take it apart and look at it in more detail but for now mine seems fine.

:thumbup

[LivesNearCostco]

I'm on the fence. My DISA looks fine and the vacuum pot holds vacuum. The pin is not loose. The flap springs back. My dyno chart shows a dip at 4000 RPM. But I have an occasional rough idle upon hot start. One BMW mechanic told me he fixed a similar problem on another E46 by replacing the DISA. My current indie heard it and commented it sounded like a flywheel problem. Last weekend one of my driving instructors said it sounded like a throw-out bearing (though he's a Mustang and Toyota expert). One of the other drivers was a BMW dealer tech (driving a Scion FRS)--I should have asked him!

When I hear of cars running smoother with the GAS DISA upgrade, I am tempted to try it.

[LivesNearCostco]

Planning to order the G.A.S. bundle of DISA repair kit and ET cap. But can't find a working link on their web site. The Product catalog lists the cap and the kit separately but not together. The ET cap page lists the bundle but the link doesn't appear to work. Suggestions?
http://www.germanautosolutions.com/productlist.php

[kayger12]

Now that I have the vanos out of the way, this is on my short list.

I've had the G.A.S. kit for a while, just need to get her done.

Sent from my kick-A Galaxy S3

[johnrando]

You're one up on me now. Gold DISA sitting around waiting, VANOS not even ordered yet.

[kayger12]

DISA rebuilt. Highly recommend the GAS kit. Very easy job.

[LivesNearCostco]

the bundle is once again available on the GAS site, here:
http://www.germanautosolutions.com/product.php?product=128

Edit: Just ordered the combo. We'll see if it fixes my occasional warm start rough idle issue. I can imagine my current DISA flap flapping around a bit during warm start when it's supposed to be completely closed. On the other hand, it could be something funky with my idle control valve or even dual-mass flywheel.

Should I change my poll answer to "I have repaired my DISA" or wait until it's actually repaired?

[LivesNearCostco]

GAS DISA repair kit arrived but haven't had time yet to install it. Note G.A.S ET cap doesn't fit with aFe Stage 1 CAI.

[Pip]

It should. I just dislike how you can't get to the bleeder screw. Poor design point on the lid of the aFe.

8147

[LivesNearCostco]

Were you able to swap ET caps with the aFe lid in place? Mine looked like I would have to remove the aluminum lid, swap ET caps, and then replace lid. My stock ET cap lightly brushes part of the aFe CAI housing when I turn it.

[Pip]

Yes it does fit rather snug and rub a bit but it did the trick. It could be my fitment vs your fitment of the afe lid. I was worried about it as well but no major issues.

[Hornung418]

Removing the lid isn't that difficult. Don't see why you can't just take it off and swap caps.

[danewilson77]

Removing the lid isn't that difficult. Don't see why you can't just take it off and swap caps.

+1

HTC DNA, Williamsburg, VA

[LivesNearCostco]

It turns out removing the lid won't help because the G.A.S ET cap doesn't hit the aFe lid, it hits the aFe black CAI housing. But it only hits it when the protruding parts of the cap are rotating. In my car, the OEM style cap also barely brushes the CAI housing but not as much. I was able to install the GAS cap by pushing the CAI housing rearward a few mm and holding it there while turning the cap. The only catch is if I tighten the GAS ET cap more without turning at least 80 degrees (almost 1/4 turn), the cap will rest against the CAI housing. Cutting a small notch in the housing would easily fix this, just not sure I want to do that right now.

Here's one pick of the cap hitting the housing and another showing it successfully installed but very close to the housing.

Hitting the aFe CAI housing during installation.
8161

Installed and not hitting anything, unless I keep tightening the cap.
8160

[echo46]

I can't vote as I have inspected my DISA on numerous occasions in search of an illusive vacuum leak. Utilized some field ingenuity and wrapped a small piece of electric tape to make sure I have a good seal.

[LivesNearCostco]

installed my G.A.S. DISA repair kit last night. I made a few minor mistakes because I didn't re-read the instructions carefully before starting, so I finally took the laptop out to the garage with the instructions on the screen. I think the kit is very well done, and the instructions are great, as long as you read them! It turns out my current DISA was in pretty good shape. I knew from prior inspection the pin wasn't loose and the valve panel wasn't flapping around. After disassembly I found the bell crank was in good shape and the pin was in tight. But not as tight as the new titanium pin and aluminum flapper valve! So far haven't noticed any obvious differences in the car's behavior but it's still nice to have.

Now did I vote already on this poll?

[WOLFN8TR]

Bump...

[FL116]

Bump.

Well, after my SES Light came on, I took it to the shop and turns out we heard some rattling from the DISA Valve. It's bad. So I am ordering this rebuild kit off Amazon. From the reviews, seems like a good quality product, will install asap.

https://www.amazon.com/3-0L-DISA-Valve-Repair-Upgrade/dp/B00GFWM98S

[Vas]

Bump.

Well, after my SES Light came on, I took it to the shop and turns out we heard some rattling from the DISA Valve. It's bad. So I am ordering this rebuild kit off Amazon. From the reviews, seems like a good quality product, will install asap.

https://www.amazon.com/3-0L-DISA-Valve-Repair-Upgrade/dp/B00GFWM98S

It is a good kit. I have done both of my vehicles using it.

[anandoc]

+1 I just did the DISA rebuild with the GAS kit and I highly recommend.

[FL116]

Okay, so question for you guys. After inspecting the DISA Valve, we were afraid the clip was going to come off and go into the head. Well, it was so close to falling off, so we took the flap off completely. It is running slightly rough (which we knew was going to happen), and I ordered the kit, but I'm wondering how much I am able to drive it right now? I would just be using the car for short trips, but I just want to make sure that nothing will go severely wrong without the flap in there.

[Vas]

Just disconnect the disa and it won't activate.