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View Full Version : I need some advice re: alternator and cooling system repairs.



quikryptonite
04-28-2012, 07:56 PM
Oh boy, I had an adventure tonight. What started off as an innocent outing with some family to get ice cream is really going to cost me when all is said and done.

First of all, I'm 99% sure that my alternator has failed. Here's the lowdown. I was driving home on the freeway and my radio started cutting out. After about five minutes it was totally dead. Then, the gauges froze on my instrument cluster. After that, the DSC, ABS and parking brake lights came on. Then my parking lights and instrument panel went black. My poor car starting chugging at that point. Fortunately, I was able to make it off the freeway and she died on the offramp.

http://i1181.photobucket.com/albums/x428/dcrider48/BMW%20330i%20ZHP/Tow3.jpg

Is my alternator kerplooie? Because, I'm pretty sure that's the culprit here from what I have read and other life experiences. (BTW, is 70,000 miles a typical life expectancy for a BMW alternator?)

I made a new friend Joel, and he kindly towed me to my house (shout out to AAA goes here!) I've got some lousy pics that I can post later.

Now, here is the real question that I have. I am going to take it into my tech, whom I totally trust and ask for by name, at the local dealership to have it fixed, since my favorite indy mechanic is about 40 miles away and it just doesn't make sense to take the car that far in this situation.

Would it be a good idea to have them replace the following items while the front end is torn apart to replace the alternator?

Water pump with metal impeller
Fan switch
Thermostat and thermostat housing
Sealing gaskets
Expansion tank & cap
Upper & lower radiator hoses

My car is a 2003 with 67,xxx miles. I've heard that the best time to replace the cooling system is between 60-80,000 miles. Anything else, advice or suggestions would be most gratefully welcomed. TIA guys, you're the best. I love this forum!

kayger12
04-29-2012, 04:00 AM
Not necessarily your alternator. Could be just the battery. 67K miles seems a little early for the alternator, but it's possible.

As for the cooling system, yes-- at your mileage I would do the thermostat and water pump (with associated gaskets) at a minimum (no advantage to metal impeller over composite- they just fail a different way).

The fan switch, radiator, and expansion tank are 90K change out items if you go by MM's Old School Maintenance schedule, and the hoses are 150K change out items.

But seeing as you're paying for the labor, I'd do the expansion tank and fan switch while you're (they're) in there. I'd personally save the money on the radiator and hoses and change those out down the road.

echo46
04-29-2012, 04:56 AM
I agree with Kayger on the cooling system. However, would a bad battery cause the car to cut out like that? Easy to check, just put a voltage meter on the battery. I agree that it is a bit soon for the alternator to die. When my alternator died on my e30, car started fine then as I was driving the radio cut out, lights went dim and the car slowly died out over a 5 mile distance. I'm putting my money on the alternator.

danewilson77
04-29-2012, 06:46 AM
Check batt voltage via OBC.

Sent from SIGFest 2012

pleasecorrupt
04-29-2012, 04:23 PM
You can check battery levels and alternator using the method in this video. That is if you aren't completely dead and can still do this.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UGuMXU3SkLs

MrMaico
04-30-2012, 02:57 AM
You might find some useful info in this thread.....

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=157574

quikryptonite
04-30-2012, 04:14 PM
Thanks for your help guys. Here is an update. My cousin is going to come over later and take a peek. He knows more about engines than I do. I'm going to get my battery fully charged, run the alternator test (start the car and then disconnect the battery to see what happens). The stealer wanted $900 just to replace the alternator. As a result, I'm going to try and replace it myself. I found a good DIY from BavAuto's blog and it seems to be something I can do.

DIY Alternator E46 (http://blog.bavauto.com/732/replacing-an-alternato-2001-325i/)

Do you have any tips for me? How hard is this really going to be? I just had the belts replaced, so I don't think I'll need to remove the fan, but I guess I need to loosen the tensioner in order to get the belt off of the alternator if it turns out that is what's broken. Is that a tricky proposition?

My plan is this:
1. Call BMW and tell them thanks, but no thanks.
2. Charge the battery and test components.
3. Get the old alternator out, verify what kind of plug it is (oval or rectangle) and place an order for a new part.
4. Put the new one in.
5. Find some way to spend a fraction of what I am saving (by doing-it-myself) on my ZHP for a new toy.

danewilson77
04-30-2012, 04:16 PM
The alternator should be easy.

Sent from SIGFest 2012

aurelius
05-01-2012, 07:22 AM
OP: let us know what you find.

I've seen similar (but much less severe) symptoms in my '03 for about 5-10k miles. 65k miles currently.

Symptoms arose after replacing OE battery. Replacement battery won't hold a full charge but retains enough juice to start the car.

Charging system tested fine. Can't invoke battery warranty because battery will take a full charge and is within acceptable CCA's after charging.

With motor off, OBC shows 10.5V. Motor on but all accessories off, voltage range is 13.9-14.2. These OBC numbers have been verified with external equipment.

Similar E46 symptoms have been remedied with voltage regulator replacement. I bought the only Bosch 120-amp VR that corresponds to my alternator but the connector doesn't fit my existing wiring. Seller (Pelican) is at a loss as to what else I should be using.

Can't get existing VR off the alt. Everything is accessible enough without removing alt but 1 of the 3 VR fasteners (the one under the plastic nut) seems to be an ultra-flat nut and I simply don't have any way to remove it.

Which brings me to today. Back to my indie to get the VR off for a look-see. If the brushes are worn, that'll be a clue but I'll still have no idea as to where to source a replacement.

Will shoot pics and report back. FWIW, E46 owners who have solved their voltage issues this way have found one of the 2 VR brushes to be much more worn down than the other.

aurelius
05-01-2012, 01:34 PM
Update:

My indie BMW shop tells me I'd be wasting my time pulling the VR. And since I don't have a viable replacement, I left it in place. For now.

Owner/operator of said BMW shop suggests getting an OE BMW battery. Not in love with that idea due to cost but also because current batt is only 2 yrs old. Will be pretty pissed if I need a VR after all. Not that 1 exists for my alternator, as noted in earlier post above.

quikryptonite
05-04-2012, 09:09 AM
I tested my battery last night and it was only registering 11.2 volts. Ouch. There was enough power to unlock the doors, but the lights didn't even flash. I tried, I don't know why, to start my car and it just clicked. I dropped my battery off for a quick charge at Autozone last night and will install it tonight and see what I can find.

aurelius
05-04-2012, 09:16 AM
How old is your battery and what brand is it?

quikryptonite
05-04-2012, 09:44 AM
It is a Duralast 94R. I just installed it last November.

quikryptonite
05-15-2012, 07:13 PM
Good news, I just got the idler pulley and alternator installed successfully. Wow, it's much easier to put one in with the knowledge I got having have taken it out. It was pretty slick, the only trouble I had was trying to thread the bottom connecting bolt. I couldn't get it to catch the thread for about five minutes. Other than that, it was pretty dang easy. Tomorrow night, the tensioner pulleys will be replaced and then I get to take her out for a drive (after I wash her, of course).

Johnmadd
05-15-2012, 07:58 PM
Good news, I just got the idler pulley and alternator installed successfully. Wow, it's much easier to put one in with the knowledge I got having have taken it out. It was pretty slick, the only trouble I had was trying to thread the bottom connecting bolt. I couldn't get it to catch the thread for about five minutes. Other than that, it was pretty dang easy. Tomorrow night, the tensioner pulleys will be replaced and then I get to take her out for a drive (after I wash her, of course).

That's a good feeling. I am used to ripping my e30 apart with no worries yet I am not as quick with my e46 bute every time i do something to it I get more comfortable working on it.

danewilson77
05-16-2012, 05:30 AM
Good work quiky.

BCS_ZHP
05-16-2012, 06:00 PM
FWIW - I've experienced 2 alternator failures, one at 47K miles and on another car at 9K miles. In both cases the cars were driven rarely, the alternators failed right after I bought them. Also in both cases, the culprit was a mouse nest in the cooling duct feeding the back of the alternator. Once I started driving these cars on a more regular basis, the nest dislodged and was sucked/forced into the rear of the alternator where it overheated, cooked, and fried my alternator. One happened the day I drove it home, the other a week after I bought the car. If you buy a lower mileage queen, a good PM would be to check that piece of duct work.

danewilson77
05-16-2012, 06:22 PM
Excellent tip Bruce.

Sent from SIGFest USA

quikryptonite
05-16-2012, 06:27 PM
Wow, that's crazy.