AC Belt Replacement, WTF?

[VaTechZHP]

So I have been trying to replace all of the tensioners while refreshing the cooling system and have apparently struck out on the 2nd attempt to get the correct tensioner for the AC belt. At this point, I've given up on waiting on the part and wanted to put the new belt on.

I can't for the life of me get enough slack from the tensioner to get the belt over the pulleys. I have since given up for the time being before breaking something.

Anyone have any suggestions on how to slip the belt over both pullies and tensioner?

TIA

[acontzhp]

I did it with a socket wrench in the tensioner. I tightened and pushed on the bolt to move it.

Sent from my Nexus S 4G using Tapatalk

[kayger12]

You'll need a longer socket wrench or breaker bar to get more leverage if you can't get it moving with what you've got.

[aurelius]

To clarify, look for the nut-looking thing built into the casting of the tensioner body. There should also be a hole where you can slip a screwdriver to hold it "open" while changing the belt.

[LivesNearCostco]

Make sure you're routing the belt correctly. IIRC, since your pushing the tensioner down, the lower part of the A/C belt goes over the tensioner so when you release the tensioner it pushes up to hold the belt tight. I usually put the belt over one pulley and around (above) the tensioner then hold it next to the other pulley with one hand while cranking the ratchet with the other hand until I can slip the belt over the 2nd pulley.

[VaTechZHP]

I wonder if my issue was that I was using the torx bolt that holds the tensioner to the body, maybe that wasn't giving me enough room to get the belt on. I'm not sure how much more it will move since I had the tensioner pushed down to the point the torx bolt was tightening a bit more. I'll have to check it when I get back. Looking like windows down for the time being if it gets hot!

Thanks for the help!

[aurelius]

As suggested earlier in the thread, use a breaker bar for more leverage if need be.

But using a socket on the nut in the casting should be the ticket and you shouldn't need anything more than a 3/8" driver.

[VaTechZHP]

The tensioner just seems maxed out to the point where the bolt tightens some more, maybe I'll just keep going and see what happens. It certainly will be tight if I can get the belt back on...

[danewilson77]

The tensioner just seems maxed out to the point where the bolt tightens some more, maybe I'll just keep going and see what happens. It certainly will be tight if I can get the belt back on...

You should not be turing a bolt, other than the one molded into the body of the tensioner.

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/images.jpg

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

[aurelius]

Yes, you can see in the photo above the nut I noted in my original reply. You'll find it MUCH easier, not to mention you can break that Torx bolt on the pulley wheel.

Back to the OP, you might consider saving the hassle of sourcing the correct new tensioner by replacing only the pulley wheel. Dayco 89133 from amazon.

[VaTechZHP]

Aurelius, thanks for the suggestion on only changing the pulley. That was my original course of action, but once I got the wheel off and compared it to what I wanted to replace with, they were very different.

I have included a picture of what my AC belt tensioner looks like.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e388/andrewelmore/IMAG0288.jpg

I also purchased the replacement part that Dane posted above, but can't see how this piece attaches with that big spring already on the car.

Thoughts?

[danewilson77]

What did you buy. Link?

What are you trying to do again?

[VaTechZHP]

I bought what you posted from Turner. I was originally planning to replace the pulley wheel while replacing the cooling system and new belts. I was not able to find just the pulley wheel to replace, and ended up purchasing the whole assembly.

At this point, I can't get enough adjustment from the tensioner to get the replacement belt around both pulleys and the tensioner. The picture I took does not look at all like what I purchased, and I can't seem to find anything similar on realoem either.

[danewilson77]

You ordered this one, correct? For your ZHP? Please check part number in link Vs. part number you recieved.

You're saying the part you recieved looks nothing like what you have installed?

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/search.aspx?SearchTerm=11287512758

[VaTechZHP]

Dane, thanks for the info. Now that I'm getting everything sorted out (this project has been going on for a while now...) I bought my tensioner from Bimmerworld

http://store.bimmerworld.com/accessory-belt-pulleys---e36-e46-z3-z4-other-92-46-cyl-p635.aspx

Looking at the part numbers, they are different. It also looks like from Turner they had a change from 2003+. My car is an 04 so that might explain why these are different parts. I just looked the part up, and that is what I have installed on the car, so I ended up with the wrong part...which would explain why everything looks so different haha.

Now that we are talking about the same part, should I then try and find whatever size Torx (larger than a T50) will fit into the casting and try that method to get the belt back on? Can I replace just the pulley wheel on that part? I certainly don't want to loosen that bolt in the middle and have that spring shoot out...

[danewilson77]

You sure they didn't send
You wrong part?

Sent from SIGFest-2012, USA on HTC via TTv2

[VaTechZHP]

They dont even have an option for the correct piece for my car. I'm going to call them up and let them know there is another option they should consider using. By process of elimination from their other choices, i thought it would have had to have been the piece I have in front of me. Shame on me for not doing the proper research prior to ordering...

[LivesNearCostco]

On my AC tensioner, the proper Torx for putting into the pulley bolt is either T-50 or T55. The proper socket to turn the casting is... I never tried it but suspect it's either 16mm (aka 5/8") or 17mm. What length belt did you get? According to RockAuto's online catalog, the proper AC belt length for a 2004 330i should be 34" or between 862-868mm. If your belt is shorter than that, you could run to the local auto parts store, buy a 34" belt and try it. Just ask them if you can return it if it's too long and you don't actually run the engine with it.

[VaTechZHP]

Well I came across another interesting find while still not getting around to getting the belt back on. Apparently in '02 they switched the belts from a 5 groove to a 4 groove. My car is supposed to have the 4 groove belt, but I have the 5 groove belt. Looking at the appropriate length suggested above, this belt length is 863mm which seems to be at the low end which would make it hard to get on if that makes any difference.

[aurelius]

Yes, the belt and tensioner for the AC were revised for all E46 beginning in Sept '02 for MY '03.

Things still seem a bit unclear here tho.

FYI that Dayco pulley wheel noted earlier can be used on both the earlier and later AC belt tensioners. And on the mechanical version serpentine belt tensioners.