Tips on painting your own wheels?

[UdubBadger]

I'm about 99% sure tomorrow when my new rims arrive I am going to just paint them myself to avoid a $500 tab at the local shop. I'm wondering who here has tackled the job successfully and has some tips or DIY links for anyone looking to do this?

I have done it once before and to be honest the conditions and my technique weren't very good so the paint came out "chunky" and not smooth like it should've looked. Thank God they were my winters and I didn't care.

Anyway, this is what I am planning on - feel free to jump in to add or tell me not to do stuff if it will increase the quality.

Supplies-
3 cans of dupilcolor wheel paint
2 cans of duplicolor clear coat
180 grit sand paper

My Plan -
The wheels are coming to me BRAND new (kind of a risk painting them I know but whatever). I chose 180 grit because they won't be dirty or anything so I want to only sand them down very minutely to help the paint stick. I am not using a primer so this should help instead. I am going to start with 1 light coat of paint on the wheels - let them sit for 10 minutes and then 1 full coat of paint (wet). Depending on coverage and supplies I might add 1 more light coat of paint after this also. Then I will let them dry and apply 2 coats of clear. I will also let them cure for about 24 hrs or more before moving them back into boxes to bring to my shop to have the tires put on.

Suggestions/tips please?

[Ryans323i]

I've painted 5+ sets of wheels.

After sanding, wipe down with denatured alcohol (rubbing alcohol).
Use a primer. 2 coats.
Check the temperature and humidity. Temp should be above 65F and humidity under 50% (lower the better).
Paint at least 3-4 coats of color, allowing each coat to dry (not cure), roughly 30mins depending on temp and humidity. Your paint layers can be heavy, but keep the can moving and at least 4-6" away to prevent runs. Watch for overspray, I suggest seperating the wheels far enough apart that overspray isn't a problem.
When it's time to clear, the color paint has to be very dry, so wait at least a hour before starting with the clear. Repeat the painting technique just as if it were color. The more coats, the better protection. I recommend 4-5.

These are my current wheels I painted.
http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm142/aprilsmom04/carandwheels/frntwheel.jpg
http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm142/aprilsmom04/carandwheels/rearwheel.jpg



In this video- 4:53 shows great technique to using the spray can. (Note, I have used the wire bristle sanding method, it's a little harsh and can leave sanding lines in the metal and can be seen after painting. I do not recommend it)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q5eK5OnHfqA

[zhpnsnv]

Wow. I did not take anywhere near that level of time/care, but I was just covering the crap on my winter wheels. It's held up, though.

[UdubBadger]

What if I use adhesion promoter instead of primer? Any thoughts? I hate sanding


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[ryankokesh]

Plasti-dip? :dunno

That's my answer to everything...


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[UdubBadger]

I also really would love to avoid sanding if possible


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[UdubBadger]

Plasti-dip? :dunno

That's my answer to everything...


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Except my text to you like 5 hrs ago!

#toocooltorespond
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[ryankokesh]

Already addressed that in another thread... :ninja

Sorry, you got me in the middle of a three hour meeting. Which you'd think would be the perfect time. Unfortunately at that point my brain was the consistency of Greek yogurt.


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[UdubBadger]

back on topic -

also how do you go about painting the inner side of the wheel? what order should I be doing this in? is it possible to do it all at once?

[ryankokesh]

I'm no painting pro, but I'm gonna guess you'd want to do the inside first so that any accidental overspray from doing the inside will be covered by the paint on the outside. Just throwing that out there.


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[UdubBadger]

this video looked good for when I refinish my 135's


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4bh8hzwC2TA&feature=related

[UdubBadger]

I'm no painting pro, but I'm gonna guess you'd want to do the inside first so that any accidental overspray from doing the inside will be covered by the paint on the outside. Just throwing that out there.


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ya looks like I should just do them standing them up actually, then I can use the inside to just flip them as needed.

[RVAzhp]

i actually wrote a guide for this for my technical writing class in college. it's a pain in the ass if the weather isn't nice because the curing temperatures are pretty important. i painted the wheels on my old truck in January, and it was a pretty long process. if you don't have tires on them it makes it even easier. just make sure you prep the surface currently and paint in a somewhat controlled/clean environment.

[UdubBadger]

you think i need to go through all the sanding/primer and all that if the wheels are brand spankin new?

[az3579]

Seth,
If you want the best results, you need to sand and use a primer. Sand, so that the primer has something to stick to, and primer so the paint has something to stick to.

You really should do these things if quality matters to you. Trust me on this; I've been down this road. The more prep you put into painting something, the better it will turn out. 95% of the job is PREP. This is why if you take a car to a body shop to be painted and you've removed everything on it AND prepared the body to be painted (sanding, etc) then you could save THOUSANDS on the price. It's ALL in the prep.

Granted, the body shop would most likely do a better job prepping than any of us would, hence the much higher price.



To answer your question, this applies regardless of whether your wheels are brand spankin' new. If anything, it applies even moreso, as your wheels will be slippery and smooth, not giving the paint any surface to adhere to (it would probably "run").


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[Nomar06]

What kind of finish is on the wheels now? I have painted a few...some new with a "clear" and one set I brought them down to the metal and finished them in a flat black. They both required different sanding steps/methods.

The vid is good but I would stand up the wheels and always try to hold the can upright. Try to get a 2x6 or 2x8 and stand the wheels up on that. The outer lips should hang over the board. I would also use a finer grit sanding before laying down the color.

For the wheels with the clear I used a scuffing pad like the one below and then sprayed the color. I believe I got it at Home Depot. The paint lasted for a long time but I noticed tiny chips after 8 months or so.

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/300/a1/a15ebc87-c270-4e56-998f-17161d93430f_300.jpg


For the wheels I brought down to metal I used paint stripper and did multi-grit sanding. Started at 100 and went up to 600(on the outer face). Sprayed the etching primer, sanded with 800, washed/cleaned and sprayed the color. Did some light sanding on the color then sprayed the color again.

Here is how they looked during the process...

http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/5318169-post1.html


For the final coat of color I would try to use 1 on all the wheels(outer face only) or 1 can for 2 wheels and another can for the other 2 wheels. I have had all the same color cans end up giving a different shade of color in the end.

[Taliben]

y u no powercoat new wheels?

[UdubBadger]

god at this rate I feel like I should just pony up the $400 for professional powdercoating

[UdubBadger]

Seth,
If you want the best results, you need to sand and use a primer. Sand, so that the primer has something to stick to, and primer so the paint has something to stick to.

You really should do these things if quality matters to you. Trust me on this; I've been down this road. The more prep you put into painting something, the better it will turn out. 95% of the job is PREP. This is why if you take a car to a body shop to be painted and you've removed everything on it AND prepared the body to be painted (sanding, etc) then you could save THOUSANDS on the price. It's ALL in the prep.

Granted, the body shop would most likely do a better job prepping than any of us would, hence the much higher price.



To answer your question, this applies regardless of whether your wheels are brand spankin' new. If anything, it applies even moreso, as your wheels will be slippery and smooth, not giving the paint any surface to adhere to (it would probably "run").


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makes sense just like everything else - you get what you pay for. I just am not very good with this stuff so I'm weary of all that work. I guess if I screw it up I'll be getting them professionally fixed anyway so might as well try.

[Nomar06]

Just take your time with the sanding and don't go crazy with the paint. If you mess up you can sand it down and start over, lol.

[az3579]

If you're worried about the quality and whether you'll do a good job, then the smartest thing to do IMO would be to just rock the wheels as they are and when you have enough money, then pay a professional to do it. I'm a firm believer in "do it once, do it right".

This also makes it easier on the shop. If you think that you'll mess it up, just know that's always easier to start with a fresh slate than to fix someone else's doing.

Of course, I'm not saying that you'll mess it up. You'd probably do a much better job of it than you think, as long as you take your time and do it right.


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[Jon D]

Seth,
If you want the best results, you need to sand and use a primer. Sand, so that the primer has something to stick to, and primer so the paint has something to stick to.

You really should do these things if quality matters to you. Trust me on this; I've been down this road. The more prep you put into painting something, the better it will turn out. 95% of the job is PREP. This is why if you take a car to a body shop to be painted and you've removed everything on it AND prepared the body to be painted (sanding, etc) then you could save THOUSANDS on the price. It's ALL in the prep.

Granted, the body shop would most likely do a better job prepping than any of us would, hence the much higher price.



To answer your question, this applies regardless of whether your wheels are brand spankin' new. If anything, it applies even moreso, as your wheels will be slippery and smooth, not giving the paint any surface to adhere to (it would probably "run").


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This is absolutely correct. When painting prep is everything.

FWIW I had a local guy do mine for just under $400 last year. He was part of a franchise - Alloy Wheel Repair Specialist -- see if local one by you that will do it at dealer rates cause of your tuner affiliation. Dealer rates were less than I paid.

[Ryans323i]

If you don't want to sand, media blasting is always an option. Sand or glass bead will work as long as the tires aren't mounted. It's very quick and that's how I did my current setup. So then the new problem is "Who has a media blaster?". Can't help you there.

Painting is all about the prep. Period.

To paint both sides of a wheel, paint the inner side first.

[UdubBadger]

This is absolutely correct. When painting prep is everything.

FWIW I had a local guy do mine for just under $400 last year. He was part of a franchise - Alloy Wheel Repair Specialist -- see if local one by you that will do it at dealer rates cause of your tuner affiliation. Dealer rates were less than I paid.

ive got quotes a mile long for around $400 from places all over the map - even back in madison. maybe i can find someone who would do it for me for like $100 as a side job or something with the materials I have.

[UdubBadger]

If you don't want to sand, media blasting is always an option. Sand or glass bead will work as long as the tires aren't mounted. It's very quick and that's how I did my current setup. So then the new problem is "Who has a media blaster?". Can't help you there.

Painting is all about the prep. Period.

To paint both sides of a wheel, paint the inner side first.

that defeats the point of me not having to sand cuz it's more $ wasted. I was just trying to skip that time consuming step cuz I need these things on the car ASAP. oh well, either I'll get lucky and when they get here they'll be dark enough and I won't need to paint them at all (for the time being) or I'll just have to make this a weekend long project and take them in to get mounted on Monday.

I'll let you all know how it turns out.

[Ryans323i]

For your sake, I'm hoping they're dark enough.

If I was closer, I'd do it for beer/alcohol.

I forgot, if you're sanding new wheels you really only need to wet sand with 6-800 grit. I wouldn't use anything less than 400 or you'll see sanding marks.

And, if you paint, and it sucks and you want to try it again, strip the paint with aircraft paint remover. Don't try to sand it off.

Edit: I just watched the video you posted earlier. It's a good video, but here's a couple notes.

-Self etching primer is only need if the metal had signs of rust, as it stops that progression. You will not need that on new wheels. And as he shows, it does not replace sanding.
-Rubbing (denatured) alcohol on a microfiber cloth cancels the need for a tack cloth and duplicolor prep wipes (these are just big alcohol wipes), and it's cheaper.
-Filler primer was not needed after the media blasting. 320 grit is harsher than media blasting. That was idiotic IMO.
-I prefer to paint the wheel flat on the ground, not standing as if they were on the car because it prevents runs. (Note, that all the wheels I've painted did not have large/deep lips. I'm not sure what wheels you're putting on, so that could be a factor.)
-The guy's actual painting technique is really good.
-Shake the can often while painting. Watch out for when the can is almost empty, it will sputter and spit small gobs of paint.

[UdubBadger]

Thanks

I just saw um and I'm again torn. They probably be fine if I left I'm alone but they're not as dark as I'd want. I don't have a lot of time to do this stuff either, I have shoots planned both Saturday and Monday, Sunday is errand day with the wife.

If I can find someone local who knows that they're doing I'll let them for like $100 but if not I'll probably just run them this way for this season then have um painted/ refinished over winter


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[UdubBadger]

Wheels came.


Spray cans came.


Paying a guy $125 to do them for me.



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[danewilson77]

Nice wheels.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

[UdubBadger]

danke

[danewilson77]

Done yet?

[UdubBadger]

:rofl I wish

naw it'll be a few days. He's doing them after work each night. He told me Thur or Fri.

[Ryans323i]

Like those wheels. Like the new color too. Will def look great!

[danewilson77]

Like those wheels. Like the new color too. Will def look great!

+1

[UdubBadger]

thanks I hope so

[UdubBadger]

Picking up rims tomorrow. I'm excited/nervous to see um.


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[UdubBadger]

Rims are here color looks perfect.

Guy did a good job but left these covers on them and they scuffed the clear coat on the lip.

How do I get this out? Someone suggested 2000 grit sandpaper.


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[Ryans323i]

You can polish them just like the paint on your car. Depending on how bad it is, you might have to wet sand w/ 2k grit. How many coats of clear did he put on them?

[UdubBadger]

6-8


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[Ryans323i]

Then you'll be fine if you need to sand. Just go light on the sanding of course.

[UdubBadger]

will do. he recommended I wet sand with 2k grit so I'm gonna do that early in the AM tomorrow before I take them in for mounting