Check my 60K service order

[goofiefoot]

I'm about to put in an order with ECS Tuning, so I can get started on my DIY 60K service. Please check my work:

ECS Tuning Oil Service Kit (http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Maintenance/Engine/Service_Kits/ES263047/)

ECS Cooling Maintenance Kit - Level 2 (http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Engine/Cooling/ES2063861/)

NGK Spark Plugs - Set Of Six (http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Engine/Ignition/ES10331/)

(2) Brake Fluid - 12 Fl Oz (http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Maintenance/Brakes/ES193630/)

(2) Manual Transmission Fluid Redline MTL - 1 Quart (http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Maintenance/Transmission/Fluid/ES1502/)

Manual Transmission / Differential Redline 75w90 Gear Oil - 1 Quart (http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Maintenance/Transmission/Fluid/ES10752/)


All of this I'm pretty confident moving forward with, however, here are some pieces I think I need - looking for suggestions:

Belt Tensioner Pulley for Hydraulic Tensioners - Do I Need 2? (http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Engine/Drive_Belts/ES2137092/)

Power Steering Fluid CHF 11S - 1 Liter - Do I Really Need to Change It? How Much? (http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Steering/Fluid/ES256779/)

Engine air filter is K&N, so I'll jut clean it.

Just had the cabin filter changed.

Am I missing anything?

[Mtnman]

Power steering fluid. Change it. 1 qt will do it. It is actually ATF fluid though, so make sure thats what you get. As for the hydraulic tensioner pulleys, are you sure you have hydraulic, and not mechanical tensioners? I have mechanical. I know that BMW will now upgrade you to hydraulic, but i dont know if our cars ever came with them originally. Just something to think about....(if the pulleys are even different in the two)

Rear diff will take 2 qts I think, not 1.

[goofiefoot]

Power steering fluid. Change it. 1 qt will do it. It is actually ATF fluid though, so make sure thats what you get. As for the hydraulic tensioner pulleys, are you sure you have hydraulic, and not mechanical tensioners? I have mechanical. I know that BMW will now upgrade you to hydraulic, but i dont know if our cars ever came with them originally. Just something to think about....(if the pulleys are even different in the two)

Rear diff will take 2 qts I think, not 1.

Awesome, thanks! The power steering is low-hanging fruit, so I'll grab some Dexron III ATF locally and knock it out. Most of my info has come from this site, so I assumed in my reading that all ZHP's came with the hydraulic (I honestly haven't looked), so I'll double-check that. Same applies to the diff fluid amount.

Please let me know if I'm missing anything else!

[Newjack]

Looks expensive!

This is just my $.02 but I think you can hold off on doing the cooling system. If your just now getting to 60K I think it would be plenty safe to wait until 80K. I changed mine out at 93K and at that point the only thing wrong was my thermostat was stuck open. Also when debating which cooling system kit to go with, check out this thread for the best info. (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?6129-Cooling-System-Overhaul-Price-Breakdown&highlight=cooling+system)

Spark plugs seem too early as well. The BMW OE plugs aren't cheapo plugs. They use Bosch 4 tipped ones. Mine were still working fine at 97K.

Brake fluid - never a bad idea

Differential fluid change is always a good idea along with a manual gearbox fluid change. But I would highly suggest that you jack up your car and make sure what sticker you have on your transmission. My transmission was different from everyone else's and I am glad I checked it before I bought fluid, because it takes a different weight oil than the other kinds. I have a yellow sticker that reads MTF2 and I needed 75W-80. (http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Maintenance/Transmission/ES1893847/)

Don't quote me on this but I think you need two of those pulleys. I know there is the tensioner pulley and the idler pulley, but I don't remember if they are the same part number or not.

As for power steering, I think one bottle should be enough. Just use this DIY (http://www.linquist.net/motorsports/bmw/maf), found on our DIY page made by DW77. Suck some crap out of the reservoir add new stuff in, then drive it for a day and do this until it meets your satisfaction.


When I said you can wait to do plugs and the cooling system overhaul, Im speaking from a financial standpoint. There is absolutely nothing wrong with going ahead and tackling these issues right now. A man who changes his oil every 3000 miles on his BMW probably wont have an engine problem for a long while. If you have the money and desire to do so then by all means go ahead. That's what preventative maintenance is all about.

The only thing I would consider adding is a new valve cover gasket along with the 15 grommets you need when putting it back on. Other than that the list looks good.



Sidebar - Your avatar gives me nightmares.

[goofiefoot]

Looks expensive!

This is just my $.02 but I think you can hold off on doing the cooling system. If your just now getting to 60K I think it would be plenty safe to wait until 80K. I changed mine out at 93K and at that point the only thing wrong was my thermostat was stuck open. Also when debating which cooling system kit to go with, check out this thread for the best info. (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?6129-Cooling-System-Overhaul-Price-Breakdown&highlight=cooling+system)

Spark plugs seem too early as well. The BMW OE plugs aren't cheapo plugs. They use Bosch 4 tipped ones. Mine were still working fine at 97K.

Brake fluid - never a bad idea

Differential fluid change is always a good idea along with a manual gearbox fluid change. But I would highly suggest that you jack up your car and make sure what sticker you have on your transmission. My transmission was different from everyone else's and I am glad I checked it before I bought fluid, because it takes a different weight oil than the other kinds. I have a yellow sticker that reads MTF2 and I needed 75W-80. (http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Maintenance/Transmission/ES1893847/)

Don't quote me on this but I think you need two of those pulleys. I know there is the tensioner pulley and the idler pulley, but I don't remember if they are the same part number or not.

As for power steering, I think one bottle should be enough. Just use this DIY (http://www.linquist.net/motorsports/bmw/maf), found on our DIY page made by DW77. Suck some crap out of the reservoir add new stuff in, then drive it for a day and do this until it meets your satisfaction.


When I said you can wait to do plugs and the cooling system overhaul, Im speaking from a financial standpoint. There is absolutely nothing wrong with going ahead and tackling these issues right now. A man who changes his oil every 3000 miles on his BMW probably wont have an engine problem for a long while. If you have the money and desire to do so then by all means go ahead. That's what preventative maintenance is all about.

The only thing I would consider adding is a new valve cover gasket along with the 15 grommets you need when putting it back on. Other than that the list looks good.



Sidebar - Your avatar gives me nightmares.


LOL on the avatar! Yes, I was disturbed and delighted to find that one.

Definitely understand the waiting, but there are a few factors here.

1. We've got our first kiddo on the way in June, and if I don't do it now, I may not get to it for a while. Both from a time and money standpoint.

2. I bought the car in Denver (came with a set of snow tires), and now it's in Texas (100°+ days are happening more and more). I'm worried the temperature extremes might prematurely wear out some of the more delicate components (hoses, plastic water pump impeller, belts, etc).

3. I've been itching to get under the hood and do some work on this thing. I haven't even done my own oil change yet!

As far as the valve cover, will THIS SET (http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Engine/Mechanical/Valve_Cover/ES17830/) fit the bill, or are there other components (didn't see any grommets listed)?

Good advice on the tranny - I'll jack it up and take a look before I order. Thanks!

[Newjack]

By all means, if you have the money and the time to do this stuff go for it! It won't hurt anything to catch a problem early.

The valve cover you linked is the one I was talking about. That's the one I bought. These are the grommets you need with it (http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/11121437395/ES1876905/) x15


Also since I didn't really know where to look when searching for my tranny sticker, mine was on the passenger side. I think most are on the drivers side. When you see the sticker you will know right away.

[telijah]

"Need" is a big term for those grommets, but you'll likely have a few of those already a little brittle, so would hurt to order some.

Did you buy this car with no maintenance records? All the work you're doing is something I would usually do if I bought a car with a completely unknown history, just to have a good "starting" point.

[goofiefoot]

"Need" is a big term for those grommets, but you'll likely have a few of those already a little brittle, so would hurt to order some.

Did you buy this car with no maintenance records? All the work you're doing is something I would usually do if I bought a car with a completely unknown history, just to have a good "starting" point.

Nope, I bought from the original owner with all records. It was maintained by the dealership in Denver.

I've been told the cooling system is the weak point on these cars, and especially with our hot climate, I want to go ahead and get this going for peace of mind. For all the other fluids, I'm using recommended replacement intervals from BavAuto and Mike Miller. I've already put over 10k miles on the car since May, and I want to keep it running like new. If any of this seems like overkill, I'd love to hear some reasoning.

[aurelius]

If you want the 15 grommets for the VCG replacement, add those. Surprised ECS doesn't include in that kit.

If doing plugs & VCG, consider Vanos rehab.

As for PS fluid replacement, consult a DIY. It's easy but there's more to it than sucking some out of the reservoir. You will drain the rack and work the steering wheel side to side (front wheels aloft).

Also: ECS has great price on new PS reservoir (~ $15). Filter is integrated there. At the least, get a new o-ring for your existing PS res cap (32411128333). If the outside of yours is grimy, it's leaking.

You must verify which belt tensioner pulley you have. See photo below, which is hydraulic version. Shoot a similar pic if you're unsure. Orientation: top of pic is thermo housing, looking down at front of motor.

You CAN replace the pulley wheel itself on the mechanical version, w/o replacing the whole tensioner unit. Dayco 89133 @ amazon. Your local Delco dealer sells a pulley wheel for that too. That same pulley wheel will also work on the AC belt tensioner.

Can also upgrade to hydraulic for about $100 in parts.

Edit: just saw the kit linked in the OP doesn't include idler pulley. If you were to replace one thing only, replace that. Same part for all E46.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l584/aurelius3/Random%20BMW%20Pics/27e2d245.jpg

[danewilson77]

If you want the 15 grommets for the VCG replacement add those. Surprised ECS doesn't include in that "kit."

[/IMG]

Those 15 grommets are never included in the set of profile gaskets, from anyone...

OP....Do the idler and deflection pulley, as well as the belts.

[LivesNearCostco]

My transmission also has the yellow sticker, though I don't remember what it says on it.

My transmission was different from everyone else's and I am glad I checked it before I bought fluid, because it takes a different weight oil than the other kinds. I have a yellow sticker that reads MTF2 and I needed 75W-80. (http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Maintenance/Transmission/ES1893847/)

[danewilson77]

My transmission also has the yellow sticker, though I don't remember what it says on it.

That?

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/MTFFluidChange.jpg

[LivesNearCostco]

yeah, that's probably what mine says, MTF "Lifetime" 1, and Newjack's says MTF "Lifetime" 2. I wonder if it's really the same transmission with just a new standard and new-and-improved MTF? I think the BMW/Pentosin MTF2 can be used in the older transmissions that specify MTF1, right?

[goofiefoot]

So, dumb question. If mine is labeled "Life Time Oil. No Oil Change" I don't need to change the oil, right?

[Newjack]

So, dumb question. If mine is labeled "Life Time Oil. No Oil Change" I don't need to change the oil, right?

No you still need to change it. BMW redefined lifetime oil to 100K miles. I would do it once every 30K-40K to ensure a healthy transmission life.

[johnrando]

There are many threads on this all over various forums. You'll get a variety of opinions. My best answer is do research and decide for yourself. While BMW says don't change it, it's lifetime EDIT: (or 100K based on Newjack's post), I'm going to change mine around 60K, and then after. There is a line of thought that says if you don't change it before 75K, don't (due to seals, etc), so do it before if you want to.

[brettbimmer]

Mike Miller would tell you to change the trans. fluid now, (actually every 30K if his "Old School Service" routine is followed), otherwise you will be changing the transmission itself later. Go for it for the small cost of a few quarts of fluid. I have done mine twice, and I am not quite let to 60K. That said, I am planning to keep the car around for the long haul, so my theory is service her hard if I ask her to play hard! FWIW, I have been using Red Line MTL for this, but there are about 10,000 opinions as to what fluid is best.

[webster]

your list looks good. i'm at 55.4k and just had the cooling system done. my maintenance list to date (purchased 8/2011 w/ 51k miles):

- FCABs (Meyle HD)
- Cooling System (equiv of ECS level 2 kit, w/ Stewart water pump)
- Transmission Fluid
- Diff Fluid
- PS Fluid (should go thru at least 3 quarts to thoroughly flush)
- Brake Fluid
- Tires
- Fuel Filter
- Cabin Filter
- New Battery (Duralast Gold 94R)


i like to think she's tip top at the moment. :)

[johnnyrad]

I would say while your doing your pulleys, you could do the ac pulley and power steering pulley while your in there. The original ps pulley is plastic (at least mine was) so you can upgrade to the aluminum one for not much more. Not that it's prone to failure, but it's plastic and who knows. Your ac pulley is really not that much more work ( I think it's 3 or 4 bolts and your belts will be off). I say this because I did all five of mine and I'm glad I did the ac pulley because even though it didn't make any noise while running, the bearing's were shot anyway. Just my two cents. Good luck and happy wrenching!

[goofiefoot]

I jacked the car up and determined the transmission is a MTF-LT-2. Seems like transmissions fluids are in high debate on the BMW forums, as I found absolutely no clear answers on the best fluid to use. What I did decipher is the Redline MTL may work well in my warm climate, but Redline also lists D4 ATF for both the LT-1 and LT-2 trannies. Ugh.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v417/jasongoode/2004%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/a468b079.jpg

It also looks like I need to buy a new socket (8mm hex), as my plugs are different than every other photo I've seen in searching for MT fluid changes. Yay, more tools.

As far as my pulleys, I still have no idea what I really need. The ECS kit comes with a new water pump pulley. It looks like the driver's side tensioner is hydraulic, but the A/C tensioner is definitely mechanical.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v417/jasongoode/2004%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/6359c23a.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v417/jasongoode/2004%20BMW%20330i%20ZHP/45d7495c.jpg

Thoughts?

[Newjack]

Haha yes I'm not alone!

Use the gearbox oil that I linked in my first post. That's what I used in my car. Its the most expensive out of the options, but it is the correct OE weight oil for the MTF LT2 transmission. I too have a yellow sticker.

Also I share your confusion when finding out you need a large hex key to open the fill hole / drain hole.

I would have mentioned that but I had forgotten.

V6 Revolution + TT

[goofiefoot]

Use the gearbox oil that I linked in my first post. That's what I used in my car. Its the most expensive out of the options, but it is the correct OE weight oil for the MTF LT2 transmission. I too have a yellow sticker.

Oops. I missed your link there. Man, that stuff gets expensive! I've split my order between ECS and BavAuto to take the best advantage of free shipping and keep costs down. Since Bav doesn't offer the Pentosin, ordering it through ECS adds $21 to my order, on top of the $22.55/bottle. No doubt it's good stuff, but so much for trying to get out on the cheap...

[danewilson77]

Yep......MTL.

My fill and drain plug is the same as yours. Pick up the hex socket at Advance or Pep Boys....something like that.

You need just the pulley for the hydraulic tensioner. and you need a new mechanical tensioner for the AC. And you need a new deflection pulley.

PC 6 and PC 15 from below. May want to get PC 7 as they sometimes get kind of stripped out.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=EV53&mospid=47725&btnr=11_2190&hg=11&fg=18

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/226-1.png

PC 2 from below

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=EV53&mospid=47725&btnr=11_2263&hg=11&fg=18

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/29-1.png

[goofiefoot]

Guys, thanks so much for all your input! I've got most of my orders placed, so I'll start working on the service once the shipments start coming in. Updates to come.

[aurelius]

May be too late for the OP but here's some info for those who may be putting their own shopping list together:

* idler pulley: 11-28-7-841-228
** above is same part on all M54: (torque to 47NM)
* serpentine belt tensioner pulley: 11-28-1-748-131
** above is pulley wheel for hydraulic-style tensioner unit;

a/c belt tensioner pulley wheel can be replaced w/o replacing entire tensioner unit but BMW doesn't sell the wheel individually. See Dayco 89133 - <$20 @ amazon; see local Delco dealer if you're in a jam. [T50 socket]

[goofiefoot]

Well, it's all done!

A couple of weeks ago I went ahead and changed the oil, tranny fluid, power steering fluid, rear diff fluid and spark plugs.

Today I finished up the cooling system, belts and pulleys. Really, it wasn't a bad project at all. Everything pretty much came out and went back in without much fuss. I'm glad to have it done, and finally have some wrench time under my belt for this car. I took my time and double-checked each step, and still had it done in about 4 hours, working by myself.

I'm coming up on a year of owning this car. I still absolutely LOVE it. By the time May 18 (buy date) rolls around, I'll have put around 13-14k miles on it, so it will take me several years to get around to need the full-blown service again.

Thanks again for all the suggestions!

[Washburn]

Very informative thread...
I also had planned to do the cooling system (get it done @ the indy BMW shop I normally go to) at 60k (my car has 30k now), but after reading this thread,I am thinking I can probably wait till 80k ?

Also, I read that huge thread that was recommended about which cooling system kit to go with...I didn't see a general consensus really.
So....which one should I get ? :) is OEM a lot worse than OE? is OE worth the money?

[aurelius]

If you're looking to do it in stages, you will definitely want to replace both serpentine belt pulleys by 55k miles. At which time you may as well of course do the belts. By 60k, replace coolant expansion tank plus water pump and its pulley.

This is based upon personal observations as well as failure accounts posted by other E46 owners, plus what I see every time I'm at my indie mechanic's shop. Amazing how many blown E46 expansion tanks I've seen there over the past few years. Bad water pumps being a close 2nd.

As for Genuine BMW vs OEM, if you buy from a supplier such as ECS Tuning, they use quality parts for their OEM kits.

Note the cost of doing a thorough refresh is higher on models with auto trans due to additional items such as AT thermostat and mechanical fan clutch.