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View Full Version : replacing oil filter housing gasket and VCG



rikdee
02-29-2012, 11:14 AM
While we're in there for both replacements, is there anything along the way that makes sense to replace/clean/inspect?

Newjack
02-29-2012, 11:45 AM
VANOS unit and spark plugs if you haven't done them yet. I don't remember the procedure of getting to the oil filter housing gasket. If it wants you to remove intake boots, then you might as well check the lower intake boot for cracks and inspect your ICV while your at it. I know the alternator needs to be pulled to get to the OFHG.

danewilson77
02-29-2012, 12:21 PM
Pulleys/belts. And a drawp.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

Mtnman
02-29-2012, 02:55 PM
I will be doing a complete oil filter housing replacement this weekend. Dont know when you plan to do yours, but i am going to try to take pics and do a write up of the procedure. Just FYI.

WOLFN8TR
02-29-2012, 03:15 PM
Depending on how many miles on your ride I would consider replacing the CCV beings it's so much easier to get to. Wish I would of done mine when doing the OFH gasket.

Crankcase Ventilation System (http://blog.bavauto.com/8003/diy-video-replacing-the-bmw-m54-crankcase-ventilation-system/)

Oil Filter Housing Gasket DIY-1 (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=657887)

Oil Filter Housing Gasket DIY-2 (http://wwww.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=422843)

rikdee
03-01-2012, 08:57 AM
Thanks to all.

kpro
03-01-2012, 11:20 AM
Took mine to the dealer yesterday and they told me the DISA was rattling pretty bad and the oil filter housing gasket is leaking. I sold the car, so I bought the new owners the parts to do the repairs. Thanks for the links to the write up's I'm curious how hard/easy it really is. Quote for labor on the Oil Filter Housing was 4 hours!!!! Thats steep, lol

Whitexi
03-01-2012, 11:45 AM
So that means that the X5 will be at the meet? I was looking into X5,s again last night but I would want the 3.0 since that's a motor I'm familiar with lol.

I did the Oil filter housing gasket on my car and it was 5 hours for me but I took my time.

kpro
03-01-2012, 12:38 PM
Ryan, I havent decided if I'm bringing the X5 or 135 yet...we shall seeeee 3.0 X5 comes in manual tranmission...I highly suggest that route if you want an x5 and don't care about towing capacity. The 3.0 has less problems.

Whitexi
03-01-2012, 02:22 PM
Yea wouldn't be towing, I would want nav at least and the face lift one if I got one.

Oli77
04-26-2012, 03:12 PM
Sooooo, rikdee, how did it go? Any pointers?

Oli77
04-30-2012, 05:15 PM
Bump, and one question in particular. The crush washers that are on the lower Vanos line to housing, do they need replacing when you remove the lower line?

danewilson77
04-30-2012, 05:28 PM
Bump, and one question in particular. The crush washers that are on the lower Vanos line to housing, do they need replacing when you remove the lower line?

You should. Part number should be in Beisan Systems Procedure.

Sent from SIGFest 2012

Oli77
04-30-2012, 06:21 PM
Darn, I hope dealership sells those.

kayger12
05-01-2012, 02:08 AM
Darn, I hope dealership sells those.

They should.

I believe it's the same one used for the oil pan drain plug.

I wish this was sent with a Galaxy S3

echo46
05-01-2012, 03:21 AM
Definitely replace them.

Oli77
05-01-2012, 03:46 AM
Ok. Thanks all. Anyone who has done this job before please chime in with your tidbits. Data help as I embarque on this journey.

Oli77
05-01-2012, 04:56 AM
Got the 2 crush washers but they look like normal washers to me. Asked the guy twice and he said he double-checked.

Another question, about the hydraulic belt tensioner. I understand you turn the 8 mm hex bolt clockwise on the pulley to release tension and remove belt.

Now to remove the pulley, is there a way to lock the tensioner before you turn the bolt counterclockwise?

Don't mind if I use this thread. Title is right and help is needed.

kayger12
05-01-2012, 05:02 AM
Got the 2 crush washers but they look like normal washers to me. Asked the guy twice and he said he double-checked.

Another question, about the hydraulic belt tensioner. I understand you turn the 8 mm hex bolt clockwise on the pulley to release tension and remove belt.

Now to remove the pulley, is there a way to lock the tensioner before you turn the bolt counterclockwise?

Don't mind if I use this thread. Title is right and help is needed.

They won't look any different.

No need to do anything to the tensioner. Its movement is self-limiting in the counter-clockwise direction.

Just apply force until it breaks loose.

I wish this was sent with a Galaxy S3

Oli77
05-01-2012, 08:20 AM
^ thanks Keith boss man. I am loving this Q&A segment.

kayger12
05-01-2012, 09:08 AM
^ thanks Keith boss man. I am loving this Q&A segment.

Anytime, Oli.

That's what the family is here for.

I wish this was sent with a Galaxy S3

echo46
05-01-2012, 01:20 PM
I remember when I changed my tensioners, I had the same question. Intuitively, you would think that there is some sort of trick but just turn the bolt counter clock wise and it will eventually break loose and unscrew quite easily.

Oli77
05-01-2012, 02:37 PM
Thank you gents, I'll report on my impressions Saturday. - or before, if I have any more questions.

MrMaico
05-02-2012, 11:17 AM
Here's a good video DIY done by one of our members. He also did a VCG video.

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?5340-New-DIY-for-oil-filter-housing-and-idler-tensioner-pulleys.

WOLFN8TR
05-02-2012, 11:30 AM
When you remove the bolts from the housing keep them in order, they are different lengths. I just stuck them in a piece of cardboard.


Sent from my 1982 Commodore 64.

Oli77
05-02-2012, 11:35 AM
Thanks guys, yes that video is the best one out there for the OFHG DIY. I didn't realize it was made by one of the Mafia members.

Wish me luck, I'm going in...Saturday.

LivesNearCostco
05-04-2012, 11:33 PM
My memory says the VANOS oil line crush washers are aluminum and bigger than the oil drain plug crush washer, which is usually copper. A regular (non-crush) washer is usually zinc plated steel or stainless steel.

Oli77
05-05-2012, 07:03 AM
Yes right. I learned that a crush washer looks like a regular washer, but is made of softer metal (i.e. aluminum). When I took the vanos line off the OFH, those washers were indented in several places.

I couldn't fit my torque ranch on that Vanos line to tighten it, so I tightened it pretty good. I'll check for leak frequently initially.