Rear window defroster

[rvariverguy]

So the previous owner had a tint job and removed it himself. As I discovered this week, he sucked at removing tint! The rear defroster now doesn't work properly.

I'm sure I'm not the first to have this issue, but I didn't find anything when I searched. My story is that the first few lines of defroster on the bottom do work, so I'm sure the problem is on the window (not an electrical problem leading to it). Is this possible to repair myself? Or would I need to replace the whole window?

[M3TA5IN]

I've never seen a car only have a few lines work.

I'm also not sure on the e46 but some cars have more than 2 leads going to the defroster, have you checked to make sure all the leads are connected? They are under your C pillars. The covers will just pop off, I prefer to use a panel popper.

[M0nk3y]

If he used a razor blade to remove tint...then be ready to replace the window

Sent using mental telepathy

[M3TA5IN]

If he used a razor blade to remove tint...then be ready to replace the window

Sent using mental telepathy

That's a good point, probably scrapped them right off

[zj96sc]

If you can find the actual breaks in the lines, you can repair the stuff. My old jeep had a couple broken lines and I was able to repair them using some product designed to bridge the scrapes. Just some metallic paint stuff. Comes with a little stencil. Worth a shot before you spring for new glass.

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-15067-Window-Defogger-Repair/dp/B000HBI9YQ

Like I said though, only going to work if you can find the actual breaks.

[telijah]

Are there defrost leads under both c-pillars? None of my lines have ever worked since I bought the car. I removed the driver c pillar last year when upgrading my radio and had to swap antenna amplifiers, and I took the opportunity to look at the "diversity" connector, which seems to also connect to the defrost lines. I JUST now realized though that considering it goes from the antenna amplifier, those may only connect to the antenna lines on the window... maybe I need to pull the passenger c pillar. All fuses were OK...

[M3TA5IN]

Are there defrost leads under both c-pillars? None of my lines have ever worked since I bought the car. I removed the driver c pillar last year when upgrading my radio and had to swap antenna amplifiers, and I took the opportunity to look at the "diversity" connector, which seems to also connect to the defrost lines. I JUST now realized though that considering it goes from the antenna amplifier, those may only connect to the antenna lines on the window... maybe I need to pull the passenger c pillar. All fuses were OK...

Cars that have antennas in the rear window normally have 1 lead on one side and 2 leads on the other side. Again though I've never taken a e46 rear window out

[telijah]

I'll have to pop off the passenger side this evening and take a look then. On the driver side, I have this thing attached to the window: (#5) http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AV53&mospid=47725&btnr=65_0481&hg=65&fg=30&hl=30

[M3TA5IN]

I'll have to pop off the passenger side this evening and take a look then. On the driver side, I have this thing attached to the window: (#5) http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AV53&mospid=47725&btnr=65_0481&hg=65&fg=30&hl=30

That picture is your antenna amplifier #6 is the antenna amplifier plug that attaches to the window. Above and below that you should have two connections that are soldered to the window (those are your heating wires, and are grounded back to the chassis).

On your passenger side you have 3 more connectors (2 going to your window grid, the heater elements) the 3rd is for your radio Freq. Trap (filter)

I am not sure on your car, but on a e36 the heater elements are labeled "Heizung" which is Heater in english.

From what you said though you might be missing some leads, if you have time take pictures of both sides and post and I will tell you if you are missing anything.

[danewilson77]

If you can find the actual breaks in the lines, you can repair the stuff. My old jeep had a couple broken lines and I was able to repair them using some product designed to bridge the scrapes. Just some metallic paint stuff. Comes with a little stencil. Worth a shot before you spring for new glass.

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-15067-Window-Defogger-Repair/dp/B000HBI9YQ

Like I said though, only going to work if you can find the actual breaks.

Great, great tip. Thanks for sharing.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

[M3TA5IN]

OP if you have a multi meter you can find the breaks pretty easy.

[telijah]

That picture is your antenna amplifier #6 is the antenna amplifier plug that attaches to the window. Above and below that you should have two connections that are soldered to the window (those are your heating wires, and are grounded back to the chassis).

On your passenger side you have 3 more connectors (2 going to your window grid, the heater elements) the 3rd is for your radio Freq. Trap (filter)

I am not sure on your car, but on a e36 the heater elements are labeled "Heizung" which is Heater in english.

From what you said though you might be missing some leads, if you have time take pictures of both sides and post and I will tell you if you are missing anything.

Oops, I meant #6 is what I have, and until I go back to my car, I couldn't tell ya what other connections were there. Hopefully I can do this tonight..

[zj96sc]

OP if you have a multi meter you can find the breaks pretty easy.

the issue is, to fix them you have to paint them. to paint them, you have to see them.....therefore if you need a multimeter to find them you're not going to know where to paint.

It would maybe help narrow down with areas to look in though.

[M3TA5IN]

the issue is, to fix them you have to paint them. to paint them, you have to see them.....therefore if you need a multimeter to find them you're not going to know where to paint.

It would maybe help narrow down with areas to look in though.

You don't really need to see it. He will still be able to see where the lines go, mask it, then find the breaks. With a multi meter he can narrow it down as much as he wants. 1 inch, 2 inch etc etc. Once he finds where the break is he repaints to complete the circuit. Easy peazy. It will be tedious but $10 paint or $300 window install.

[toddness]

Not exactly related, but does anybody else have the Business CD radio give off considerable static when running the rear window defrost? I only noticed this AM on my local AM news radio during commute. I have tints.

[Hermes]

antenna on non-vert's is in the C-pillar, so I can definitely see the defroster mixed with a metallic tint causing static.

[toddness]

Thank you !

Don't really like the tints anyway :)

[Washburn]

Not exactly related, but does anybody else have the Business CD radio give off considerable static when running the rear window defrost? I only noticed this AM on my local AM news radio during commute. I have tints.


I had this even withOUT a tint, and curiously, after getting a semi-metallic tint, it the static when defroster is on became LESS, almost none.

[toddness]

OK - now I am really curious.

How many more defrosters without tint out there listening to the AM? (lol) How many of those get considerable static when defrosting?

[Washburn]

I had the static with defroster also on FM, albeit on 1 very weak station. (even that almost vanished strangely after the tint)

[Rovert]

I get static when defrosting the rest window and listening to my AM traffic radio station. Sometimes its nonexistent, but most of the time it's enough not to understand what the radio station is saying. If I turn of defrost, everything works as it should. I have never used tint either.