Dead battery

[HokieZHP]

Hey guys I'm on my phone so sorry if this is a repost. My car battery died last night and turned over for about 5 seconds this morning and now won't turn over at all. What battery would you all recommend I get?

Also are there any precautions I need to take in changing the battery to avoid harming the ecu?


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[Crickett]

Autozone 49-DL. As for changing the battery, no extra precautions necessary; just remove old battery, replace with new!

[HokieZHP]

Ok awesome thank you


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[echo46]

That sucks, which battery did you end up purchasing?

[kayger12]

Autozone 49-DL. As for changing the battery, no extra precautions necessary; just remove old battery, replace with new!

+1

[HokieZHP]

That size battery isn't listed as the correct one for my car. You guys sure that's correct? My current one says 94R and that's what autozone says it is. I'm confused


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[Newjack]

Yep, get the 49-DL. I put one in my car about a month ago. (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Battery?itemIdentifier=4490)

It DOES fit. Ignore the website.

[kayger12]

49-DL is correct.

[Crickett]

Yep, get the 49-DL. I put one in my car about a month ago. (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Battery?itemIdentifier=4490)

It DOES fit. Ignore the website.

+1, that's the battery in my trunk right now.

[HokieZHP]

Alright thanks a lot guys. On my way to purchase now. Any brand recommendations?


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[Smolck]

Yea, the guys at Auto Zone where I bought my 49-DL (OP that is a Duralast battery BTW) they said "it won't fit, it isn't the right one for your car". Then they said "it also says it takes 45 minutes to install so if you want our free installation you will have to wait". I bought the battery, walked into the parking lot and changed my battery with the 10mm wrench in the tool kit and about 5 minutes (3 of those was spent fighting the battery cover plate). Pay them no attention, listen to the forum, for we are wise!

[danewilson77]

+1... Lol

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

[HokieZHP]

So since I'm not sure how long I'll be keeping this car, I ended up getting a duralast red top battery, size 49-DL.

Thanks for all the help guys!


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[Crickett]

Yea, the guys at Auto Zone where I bought my 49-DL (OP that is a Duralast battery BTW) they said "it won't fit, it isn't the right one for your car". Then they said "it also says it takes 45 minutes to install so if you want our free installation you will have to wait". I bought the battery, walked into the parking lot and changed my battery with the 10mm wrench in the tool kit and about 5 minutes (3 of those was spent fighting the battery cover plate). Pay them no attention, listen to the forum, for we are wise!

Quote. Of. The. YEAR.

[Hermes]

Quote. Of. The. YEAR.

The year just started, aren't you getting a little ahead of yourself? Maybe quote of the month...

[Crickett]

The year just started, aren't you getting a little ahead of yourself? Maybe quote of the month...

Nope! I think it's that good!

But I could be mistaken . . .

[Newjack]

So since I'm not sure how long I'll be keeping this car, I ended up getting a duralast red top battery, size 49-DL.

Thanks for all the help guys!


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Woah woah, you make it sound like your cheaping out by getting a regular car battery instead of a BMW battery. The Duralast has the same if not better specs that the stock E46 battery. The only difference is there is still $200 in your wallet and there isn't a roundel on the Duralast.

[HokieZHP]

K so it's not the battery. Replaced it, turned the key, didn't turn over and all I heard was a click and that's it


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[Jon D]

Check wires to starter for clean connections. Sounds like you have a voltage drop scenario. Cause it's clicking.

Jon D. Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

[Newjack]

K so it's not the battery. Replaced it, turned the key, didn't turn over and all I heard was a click and that's it


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It was running fine before right? No problems until you tried starting it last night and it just wouldn't start? No engine codes?

If you have a manual can you try to get some momentum and dump the clutch to start it? If the car stays running then it probably isn't the fuel pump and could be the starter.

Cars mileage?

Also having a new battery never hurts. I'm sure the old one had it's fair share of use and was needing replacement anyway.

[Smolck]

Check wires to starter for clean connections. Sounds like you have a voltage drop scenario. Cause it's clicking.

Jon D. Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

Or the starter is hosed. OP, have someone hit the starter while you try to crank it and see what happens. Or, just always park downhill so you can roll start it.

[HokieZHP]

Well I have to go back to school today. Classes start tomorrow. Im on the way to the Indy now. I barely pushed it up part of my driveway and jumpstarted it in reverse.


Also it's only clicking once when I turn the key, not repeatedly.


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[Smolck]

Well I have to go back to school today. Classes start tomorrow. Im on the way to the Indy now. I barely pushed it up part of my driveway and jumpstarted it in reverse.


Also it's only clicking once when I turn the key, not repeatedly.


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Sounds like a dead solenoid.

[HokieZHP]

Yeah that's what I'm thinking also. I'm glad I could push it up the driveway enough to get it to jumpstart. I left it at my Indy's tonight. Luckily I have a good relationship with him since he was extremely busy but he took my car and is gonna look it over and see what he can find since I don't have the time to do it since I need to get back to Blacksburg ASAP. I'll let you all know how it goes though and what I find out.

[brettbimmer]

Sorry to hear of the trouble Chris. Solenoid sounds like a good candidate, or starter motor. So we can still push-start our manual zhp's even with the clutch check??

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[HokieZHP]

You can jump start any manual car. Just get it going, doesn't even need to be that fast, put it in gear and pop the clutch.

I pushed it up the hill a bit. Pulled the e-brake and got in and did that.


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[iZHP]

Starter's gone.

Why doesn't anyone use the OEM battery? I just had to replace mine and didn't think twice about going to the dealer...

[HokieZHP]

Cause the dealer is just a rebranded battery that for the money, isn't as good as others.

My battery is actually good too so I just returned the one I bought and left the other one in there.

[iZHP]

eh, the OEM battery is definitely better quality though. $100 more for that is the price I guess. :dunno

[kayger12]

eh, the OEM battery is definitely better quality though. $100 more for that is the price I guess. :dunno


The Duralast that I put in my 325 was still going strong when I sold it (two years after install) and never gave me a problem.

I have never heard of anyone having a problem with the Duralast battery.

Curious what facts say the Interstate is better (assuming my memory is correct and the oem battery is made by them).

Droid X. Tapatalk. Use it.

[danewilson77]

eh, the OEM battery is definitely better quality though. $100 more for that is the price I guess. :dunno

How much is oem battery @ dealer.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

[cakM3]

getting a battery at the dealer will cost just above $200

[iZHP]

$179 @ Prestige.

It's made of different material...AGM? My battery lasted 8 years...I've never heard of a battery lasting that long.

[LivesNearCostco]

Haven't replaced my BMW battery but took it out once to top off the cells and tighten the caps. There was a little tube connected to a plastic elbow on the battery. I disconnected it to get the battery out and reconnected it after putting the battery back. I assume it vents any hydrogen gas from the battery out of the trunk. Was new to me because my other cars have/had the battery in the engine compartment.

[kayger12]

$179 @ Prestige.

It's made of different material...AGM? My battery lasted 8 years...I've never heard of a battery lasting that long.

Ok. Makes sense.

I'm a preventative replacement guy with batteries- never leave them in until they die, so i'd be switching it out well before 8 years anyway.

Definitely a waste of money for me.

Droid X. Tapatalk. Use it.

[llll1l1ll]

So we can still push-start our manual zhp's even with the clutch check??

Yep! The clutch check switch is for starter engagement. If you turn the key all the way to start, then begin depressing the clutch pedal, the starter will engage once the check switch has been activated.

[HokieZHP]

Ok so it was the starter. My Indy called an hour or so ago and said it was done. Thanks for the help guys. Gonna be back at school by tonight


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[danewilson77]

Nice. Quick fix with a lil troubleshooting.

[brettbimmer]

You can jump start any manual car. Just get it going, doesn't even need to be that fast, put it in gear and pop the clutch.

I pushed it up the hill a bit. Pulled the e-brake and got in and did that.


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Glad to hear that you were able to get her fixed!

Cool, I used to do this with my old Jeep Wrangler, but I figured that there would be some electronic nanny on the zhp that would not allow it to start. Glad to know that we can still push-start the cars!

[das boots]

Ok. Makes sense.

I'm a preventative replacement guy with batteries- never leave them in until they die, so i'd be switching it out well before 8 years anyway.

Definitely a waste of money for me.

Droid X. Tapatalk. Use it.

I'm with you on doing PM before they crap out. How can we tell if the battery on our cars are still the original? Or how can we tell if POs have done a battery replacement? Would our cars show some codes stating that the batteries are about to say bye-bye? I know that batteries when car not running would be somewhere at 12.3VDC. And the car running, would be maybe 14.5 VDC or close to that.

[iZHP]

I'm with you on doing PM before they crap out. How can we tell if the battery on our cars are still the original? Or how can we tell if POs have done a battery replacement? Would our cars show some codes stating that the batteries are about to say bye-bye? I know that batteries when car not running would be somewhere at 12.3VDC. And the car running, would be maybe 14.5 VDC or close to that.

I can say that the car gave me no warning or hint that the battery was going bad. No battery light came on.

[kayger12]

Funny timing. I got in the ZHP last night to drive my daughter to gymnastics.

First time the car was driven in a week.

She had a slow, labored crank and then ran like absolute garbage for the first minute.

Was thinking either ICV or battery.

Drove her the rest of the night with several restarts and the problem never came back.

Thinking the battery is getting a little tired.

Definitely looks like an aftermarket battery in mine. Iirc, the oem battery is white.

[iZHP]

Yes it's white. And there should be a round date sticker on the top. Mine was 3/03 so I knew it was original.

[kayger12]

Ok. Definitely an aftermarket in mine then.

[MrMaico]

My white oem battery had the date code stamped on top of the negative post.....17 04. No round sticker like you see on newer batteries.

[iZHP]

My white oem battery had the date code stamped on top of the negative post.....17 04. No round sticker like you see on newer batteries.

I have seen this too. It's stamped into the metal negative post. I checked the gf's car after mine ;)

[das boots]

I will check my battery tomorrow with daylight. Good to know info.

[MrMaico]

Like this......

http://mrmaico.smugmug.com/Cars/BMW-ZHP-misc/i-8Tsk6xV/0/L/IMG1527-L.jpg

[das boots]

This is what I got....What does the top number signify? The bottom I would think is the year of production.

[danewilson77]

This is what I got....What does the top number signify? The bottom I would think is the year of production.

Probably week, in the year.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

[das boots]

2nd week of Nov. '04?

Edit: Just about right. I have a build date of Nov. '04.

[danewilson77]

August '04?

More like September...

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

[das boots]

September would be around 36????

You're right.....

Edit: Either way...the battery is about due to end of its life span. Also, anybody bothered to use slightly used battery as replacement?