Cooling System Refresh

[BCS_ZHP]

Talk to me, who's done this before.

Bought a kit with new radiator, Stewart water pump, the 3 hoses, thermostat housing, bleed screw, expansion tank, coolant. I intentionally didn't order the belts as mine are only 4 months old. Went to BMW today and got a new tensioner pulley too. I'm not intending to change over from mechanical to hydraulic tensioner, so it was just the pulley.

So how hard, how long does it take to make this repair? Are any special tools required? I have an appt set up for Monday to have this done by my mechanic of 25+ years, but if it's easy I may try it tomorrow to save the 5 hrs of labor (his initial estimate).

Looking for your feedback.

[az3579]

It truly isn't difficult to do. The hardest part will be removing the expansion tank, as it's stuck on there. The rest of it is very easy though as long as you follow instructions. So easy, I did it all by myself.

Just remember to mix the coolant with distilled water, 50/50.


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[BCS_ZHP]

My expansion tank was also a Sept 2011replacement, so likely to retain that and save the new expansion tank for the other E46, the wife's.

[kayger12]

If you don't have to do the expansion tank, everything is very straight forward, Bruce.

No surprises.

If the water pump gives you any trouble coming loose, slowly and evenly sink the two, 10mm bolts from the airbox into the two threaded holes on either side of the pump.

That will push it free from the block.

The lower hose can be a bit of a beeyotch to get loose from the radiator. Little elbow grease will get her done, though. As a matter of fact, if you're doing a new radiator, I'd just cut her and save the time.

I'd say you'll be done in about 3-4 hours.

If you run into any issues, there are plenty of us here to help.

Just pm me or shoot me a call if you hit a snag.

You can absolutely do this and save the money.

http://www.bmw330ci.net/maintenance/completecoolant.php

[Newjack]

I have a writeup in my build thread, link to the build thread should be in my signature.

Its a fairly easy DIY but will take a couple hours when taking your time. Hardest part for me was the expansion tank removal and lower radiator hose removal.

Just keep in mind that when you drain your coolant, you will make a mess. You can catch a majority of it with a pan, but the coolant essentially voms right out of the drain hole.

Post if you have any specific questions. This is a very common DIY that a bunch of members here, including myself, have done successfully.

Gingervolt + TT

[danewilson77]

Diy and call me if you run into problems.

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[BCS_ZHP]

Dane wished you lived closer to be my security blanket. Checked and I do have the two required torx sockets Keith mentioned. if I can get out of the kids' soccer games (indoor) tomorrow, hopefully, then I'll take a shot at it.

[kayger12]

I'm telling you, Bruce- you've absolutely got this.

Dane or I (or any of the family members who have done this) can walk you through whatever you need.

Your security blanket is a phone call or post away.

Droid X. Tapatalk. Use it.

[BCS_ZHP]

Keith,
Breaking loose the nuts/bolts connecting the pulley to the water pump, does this require a special tool?

[Smolck]

Talk to me, who's done this before.

Bought a kit with new radiator, Stewart water pump, the 3 hoses, thermostat housing, bleed screw, expansion tank, coolant. I intentionally didn't order the belts as mine are only 4 months old. Went to BMW today and got a new tensioner pulley too. I'm not intending to change over from mechanical to hydraulic tensioner, so it was just the pulley.

So how hard, how long does it take to make this repair? Are any special tools required? I have an appt set up for Monday to have this done by my mechanic of 25+ years, but if it's easy I may try it tomorrow to save the 5 hrs of labor (his initial estimate).

Looking for your feedback.

I can do that in an hour tops. If you go to my youtube channel linked in my signature, you will see some videos of the process. Yes, I know the camera work sucks, but you try and work with one hand and film with the other. But you will get the idea and see firsthand how easy it is and why you should DIY.
EDIT: just saw you are doing a radiator too, I have a vid for that too.


Keith,
Breaking loose the nuts/bolts connecting the pulley to the water pump, does this require a special tool?
All you need is a 10mm socket. They are at about 10 or so ft lbs of torque so they are just barely tight.

[Newjack]

Keith,
Breaking loose the nuts/bolts connecting the pulley to the water pump, does this require a special tool?

No special tool is required. Someone correct me if I'm wrong here but I think it's best to loosen the bolts while the belts are still on. Otherwise the pulley will just spin and cause trouble.

This link might help you. (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?5239-From-Bavaria-with-love-(Maryland-ZHP-Story)&p=117168#post117168)

[Smolck]

No special tool is required. Someone correct me if I'm wrong here but I think it's best to loosen the bolts while the belts are still on. Otherwise the pulley will just spin and cause trouble.

They aren't tight enough for it to cause an issue. You can just hold the pulley with your hand. But either way is fine. To the OP, the biggest mistake I see people make with the cooling system (especially the water pump, tstat, and water pump pulley bolts) is over tightening. The required torque for all these is less than 20ft lbs so be careful. A torque wrench helps, but if you don't have one just use some common sense.

[kayger12]

What they said.

I don't loosen the water pump pulley bolts with the belt on, I just hold it with my hand like Smolck said.

Droid X. Tapatalk. Use it.

[JohnnyGraphic]

As for draining the coolant from the engine, use a 1 1/2" flexible hose, maybe 3 feet(?) or so. This will help catch the coolant spewing out of the drain hole.

Also, take a picture of the belts before you take anything off. This will help when you route everything back together.

The cooling system is one of the easiest to do.

Good luck with the job!

Johnny

[danewilson77]

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/e46beltdiagram.png

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[JohnnyGraphic]

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/e46beltdiagram.png

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Good one DW!

[danewilson77]

Good one DW!

Thanks. Got from below.


http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?588-E46-BMW-330-ZHP-Engine-parts-and-pictures&p=9416
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[BCS_ZHP]

No joy today :(. Coolant temp sensor on lower rad hose is leaking, trip to dealer required tomorrow. All in all not too bad, thanks for talking me into giving it a shot. The DIY and belt layout both helped immensely.

Thanks all,
Bruce

[kayger12]

That's usually as simple as just replacing the o-ring.

I think Dane has the part#.

Droid X. Tapatalk. Use it.

[danewilson77]

That's usually as simple as just replacing the o-ring.

I think Dane has the part#.

Droid X. Tapatalk. Use it.

I actually have the orings. PM me should you need one. I do not think the orings are sold separately.

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[BCS_ZHP]

Yup, I think it's just the o-ring too but on a Sunday I had no options.

Had the iPad on top of the engine reading Smolck's DIY (Roll Tide) and Dane's diagram.

[danewilson77]

Yup, I think it's just the o-ring too but on a Sunday I had no options.

Had the iPad on top of the engine reading Smolck's DIY (Roll Tide) and Dane's diagram.

OK. You can also just buy a new sensor that has the oring... From dealer.

Or.... Go to lowes and get the orings I got... For future use. I will go take a pic.

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[BCS_ZHP]

Did you say I can get the o-ring at Lowe's? (Damn autocorrect). Wonder if they're still open tonight?

Also broke the plastic rivet that holds the fan to the radiator, and it's a different size than the ones that hold the intake scoop down. Plus missing one metal female clip that snaps on the frame for the belly pan to attach to. Guess a trip to the dealer is inevitable.

[BCS_ZHP]

Nope, Lowe's closed at 7 pm.

[danewilson77]

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/IMAG1128.jpg

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/IMAG1131.jpg

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[JohnnyGraphic]

When I did mine, I mangled a few of those plastic rivets. Lesson learned. From now on, before I DIY and buy all the parts, I will make sure to buy a few extra of those plastic bits at the same time since I know I will probably either mangle or lose a part in the process.

It would probably help if I just buy a tack lifter though.

Johnny

[BCS_ZHP]

Johnny, I bought half a dozen of the plastic rivets for the belly pan and air intake scoop. But the one I broke (fan to radiator on driver's side) is larger in diameter.

Dane, if I'd have known about that o-ring earlier, I'd probably be pulling up to your house right about now. But at this time of night, the 2 hour drive isn't worth it, I'll wait until tomorrow.

[danewilson77]

Johnny, I bought half a dozen of the plastic rivets for the belly pan and air intake scoop. But the one I broke (fan to radiator on driver's side) is larger in diameter.

Dane, if I'd have known about that o-ring earlier, I'd probably be pulling up to your house right about now. But at this time of night, the 2 hour drive isn't worth it, I'll wait until tomorrow.

Damn... Sorry Bruce. I've been busy today.

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[BCS_ZHP]

Dane, no worries, I'll get it tomorrow. The wife works about a mile from the dealer, so I can call in my order and she'll pick it up.

If I had made the drive to your place, that would have been a pretty darn expensive o-ring, and would have extended my total time to repair. Lol

[JohnnyGraphic]

Johnny, I bought half a dozen of the plastic rivets for the belly pan and air intake scoop. But the one I broke (fan to radiator on driver's side) is larger in diameter.

Dang! Isn't that the way it always goes? GL with the rest of the job!

[Smolck]

May want to think about buying the whole lower rad temp sensor along with the o-ring. I have broken my fair share trying to remove them, sometimes they just get stuck in there and are a bugger to remove. Better to have it and not need it than the alternative.

[BCS_ZHP]

Smock,
That's the intent, buying the whole sensor since it's only $25 list. Was so close to getting it done today, not going to risk another back and forth to have to get another part.

[Smolck]

Smock,
That's the intent, buying the whole sensor since it's only $25 list. Was so close to getting it done today, not going to risk another back and forth to have to get another part.

It's one of the worst feelings, you pull on that little bugger (it's right there, should be easy) and you pull and you pull and then all of a sudden, POP! (enter favorite 4 letter word here) I hate that!

If you have an auto make sure you get an auto trans tstat too if you plant to remove the expansion tank, it will break 50% of the time.

[aurelius]

Looking at your OP, I see a potential snag:

If your BMW dealer parts dept sold you a tensioner pulley with a part number ending in 131, then that's for the hydraulic tensioner.

If memory serves, BMW doesn't sell a replacement pulley for the mechanical tensioner, tho you can still get one. See Dayco 89133 @ amazon. If you have a local Delco dealer, they sell one too. That pulley also fits the a/c belt tensioner.

[Newjack]

Looking at your OP, I see a potential snag:

If your BMW dealer parts dept sold you a tensioner pulley with a part number ending in 131, then that's for the hydraulic tensioner.

If memory serves, BMW doesn't sell a replacement pulley for the mechanical tensioner, tho you can still get one. See Dayco 89133 @ amazon. If you have a local Delco dealer, they sell one too. That pulley also fits the a/c belt tensioner.

I think advanced auto and autozone carry the OEM brand INA pulleys and tensioners. You can also buy them from our amazon store.

Gingervolt + TT

[echo46]

Yea got my INA pulley from autozone. Don't know why it is a bit difficult to get the pulley. Remember when you refill, refill very slowly as it will cut down on air in the system. Also, keep the front end elevated when refilling.

[danewilson77]

Yea got my INA pulley from autozone. Don't know why it is a bit difficult to get the pulley. Remember when you refill, refill very slowly as it will cut down on air in the system. Also, keep the front end elevated when refilling.

Yup. I mean......if your stream is >1/8"...you're pouring too fast. I got all 2 gallons in this way. Put the cap on.....and drove off.

[BCS_ZHP]

By dumb luck, I think the above concerns are covered. It's a 5 spd manual, so no thermostat for the tranny. The dealer did not sell me one of the two tensioner pulleys but rather the roller guide that is attached by the alternator. When the belt was off, the two tensioner pulleys rolled fine and had no noise. However, this guide roller made noise as it had lots of bearing/ shaft play. Filling it up with coolant was done with the front end still in the air and I did fill it slowly because I couldn't see worth a darn as the sun was setting and my helper was gone. My local dealer has the sensor in stock, my wife is going to pick it up today, so hopefully I can complete this PM event after work this evening.

Thanks to all for the DIY instructions, encouragement, and additional advice, it all helped immensely. The iPad helped too, had it sitting on top of the engine and kept referring back to the instructions and diagrams/photos.

[BCS_ZHP]

Okay, the new coolant temp sensor stopped the leak. Then found that I hadn't seated a couple of hose ends all the way, fixed that too. Performed the air bleed again, got heat inside. Took it for a 15 minute ride, nothing abnormal about the temp gauge,all semed perfectly fine. Now waiting for it to cool down so I can check the coolant level and top off as necessary.

[Smolck]

Okay, the new coolant temp sensor stopped the leak. Then found that I hadn't seated a couple of hose ends all the way, fixed that too. Performed the air bleed again, got heat inside. Took it for a 15 minute ride, nothing abnormal about the temp gauge,all semed perfectly fine. Now waiting for it to cool down so I can check the coolant level and top off as necessary.

Congrats.

[kayger12]

Nicely done, Bruce.

Droid X. Tapatalk. Use it.

[llll1l1ll]

Well done!

It sounds like you have the same luck repairing cars: you go in with "Oh this will only take x amount of hours. Let me grab some beer to go with this repair!" Then you world is crushed and your beer goes warm and flat because you are struggling with some ridiculously flimsy piece that ends up breaking and you have nowhere to purchase this particularly flimsy piece because it is no longer made or all stores are closed for some reason on a Saturday afternoon. So your estimated x hour job now has cost you an entire day and all of your patience.

[gammagoblin]

Well done!

It sounds like you have the same luck repairing cars: you go in with "Oh this will only take x amount of hours. Let me grab some beer to go with this repair!" Then you world is crushed and your beer goes warm and flat because you are struggling with some ridiculously flimsy piece that ends up breaking and you have nowhere to purchase this particularly flimsy piece because it is no longer made or all stores are closed for some reason on a Saturday afternoon. So your estimated x hour job now has cost you an entire day and all of your patience.

Yeah, I'm in that club too. Also, I always get rained on.

[BCS_ZHP]

Cooling system, Take II.

Did a brake system overhaul today -- s&d rotors, ceramic pads , sensors, SS lines, new fluid & bled. I'm about to go out for the test drive and notice some "water" on the garage floor which is expected since we had snow/sleet last night. But the location of the water wasn't anywhere near where I was walking, it looks like its from the expansion tank. The expansion tank was replaced by the PO back in Sept, still looked like new, so I reused it last weekend -- mistake. Getting ready to go back in the unheated garage and start mixing it up with my least favorite part of this car.

Do I have to drain the engine block again or can I skip that?

[Newjack]

I would drain the system again. Removing the expansion tank will let air into the system and unless it is drained and filled properly you could end up with an air bubble somewhere and have to re-drain it anyway. Besides, removing the expansion tank without draining the system will probably be exceptionally messy.

[Hornung418]

Just drain the expansion tank and radiator. Then burp your hoses and keep the upper hose elevated. Swap and go!

[kayger12]

Yep-- I wouldn't drain the block again.

[danewilson77]

Yep-- I wouldn't drain the block again.

PLUS 1.

Just do proper bleed.

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[BCS_ZHP]

So I put the new expansion tank on there, bled it,and took it for a ride. Afterwards, I again have a small leak near the upper radiator hose. Per someone's earlier directions, I partook in an adult beverage to contemplate why. Bimmerworld sent me a brass bleeder screw, which I used to replace the plastic bleed screw for each tank. So I changed that back to the OEM plastic one, and so far no leaks. That barley & hops thinking aid had me wondering if the brass screw expanded at a faster rate than the surrounding plastic, and then held the heat longer too so it would allow seepage after I shut down the car. the car is cooling now, so I 'll check in an hour or so.

Second item, the new brakes work fine but make a funny sound the harder I get on them. During the ride I did the 60-40, 60-30, 60-20, 60-10 stops to bed the pads properly. And with these new SS lines, they grab so much quicker. But if I'm doing anything more than a casual gradual stop, more like a spirited stop, there's a whop-whop sound feel coming from them, like it's hitting a high spot. The rotors are slotted and drilled, and I made the leading edge of those slots face forward, same as I did for the ZHP (which never has made a peep, it brakes perfectly & quietly). I'm thinking I have a high spot in a rotor or pad and they'll mate up over time. Or, do I need to reverse the rotors so the leading edge of the slot is trailing. (in the S&D rotors I've bought, one set said to make the slots face forward (that was the set for the ZHP) and another set said to make the slots trail (that was the set for my old touring), this set had no written instructions. We're never going to track this car, so that's not a concern. Guess I'll just drive it some tomorrow and see if I can figure it out (no more driving tonight, too much pondering with accompany adult thinking juice).

Open to ideas on the brake noise?

[kayger12]

Hmmm. I have a brass bleeder screw.

No leaking.

[JohnnyGraphic]

Yeah, same here. Brass bleeder and no leaks from there.

Hope you find the source of your whop-whop.

[BCS_ZHP]

Did a 40 minute drive today and it's leaking again. Top of the expansion tank is wet and though I can't see a leak, it must be where the upper radiator hose hooks in. So taking it in this week for a pressure test to see if I can get this leak isolated. Even though it's a new upper radiator hose, I'm wondering if that's bad.

On the brakes, the whop-whop noise dissipated, but now can hear the pads crossing over the slots when pushing the brakes. Its the same noise as when you cros rumble strips but there's no vibration. These pads are from a different manufacturer than the last s&d brKe job I did, wondering if these ceramic pads are the source of the noise - possible a different hardness/make-up to the ceramic compound.

[kayger12]

New cap with the tank, correct?

Droid X. Tapatalk. Use it.

[BCS_ZHP]

Absolutely, new cap. And the upper hose is fully seated too. I'm frustrated with chasing it.

[Hermes]

Can somebody break down the price involved in coolant system rebuild? It would be nice to know in general for those planning on doing it.

Personally, my t-stat was replaced a few K ago, remanufactured water pump (will be replaced w/Stewart) maybe 1K ago, ordering the Samco silicon hoses (in red FTW!) so I only have to order the other things... damn all my ongoing projects.

[kayger12]

Absolutely, new cap. And the upper hose is fully seated too. I'm frustrated with chasing it.

Yeah, I feel your pain.

Maybe a defective hose or tank. Stranger things have happened.

[Hornung418]

Did you lube the O-rings with Coolant before connecting them to the nipples?

[BCS_ZHP]

Justin,
Absolutely, o-rings were wet.

So dropped it off at my mechanic's place and I even picked up a new upper radiator hose from BMW before dropping it off. There's a marked difference between the upper rad hose from OEM to aftermarket (Bates). He's been my Indy for 25 years, i trust him, he looked it over initially and didn't see anything blatantly wrong. Pressure test on a cold car didn't show anything either, but you can see the evidence of the leak being there previously, so he knows I have a leak. Maybe it's only leaking when cooling down after it's shut off,in which case it would be hard to pressure test without getting burned. Tomorrow we'll hopefully find out if it was in fact this stupid hose.

And since it's there, also gave him diff & tranny fluids to go ahead and change those.

[Smolck]

I have seen a lot of radiators fail in that area. It is probably coming from the plastic side of the radiator up near the neck you connect the hose. Very common.

[BCS_ZHP]

Smolck,
The radiator is brand new, OEM Behr, part of the overhaul kit. The upper radiator hose connects to the expansion tank, expansion tank to the radiator at the lower end, and it's not leaking down there. From initial test today, my mechanic got it warm without driving it and no leaks. I told him to drive it home, keep it a day or two, just ensure it's not leaking. More tomorrow.

[edlvrt]

When I did my cooling system overhaul, I installed the brass bleeder screw and it leaked. I went back with the old plastic one and have been fine for the last 5,000 miles.

[BCS_ZHP]

Here's the verdict -- it ended up being both a defective expansion tank and a defective upper radiator hose, though both were new. The bad expansion tank was OEM, the bad hose was aftermarket (Bates), both part of a kit I bought from Bimmerworld. When I contacted them, they were apologetic and asked that I send the defective parts back immediately for them to evaluate so they could contact their vendors to see if they have a systemic issue or a minor QA problem. They promised to contact me after they get a chance to look at it and work out a credit. I'll report back later on the final outcome.

[kayger12]

Glad it's solved.

Shame it had to ruin a good DIY for you.

Droid X. Tapatalk. Use it.

[acontzhp]

im in the middle of my cooling overhaul.can someone direct me to the torque specs for the hydro pulley conversion?

[imola red zhp]

Just completed the Cooling refresh not getting the hot air ..low fan setting at 91 drove for a bout 8 mins no leaks temp gauge normal, letting cool down now let air out of bleed screw am I missing something here?

Thanks

[imola red zhp]

Fixed bled system again.....

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[danewilson77]

Fixed bled system again.....

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May even find yourself bleeding again.

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[imola red zhp]

May even find yourself bleeding again.

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Yup, probably a few more times after I replace the defective lower hose.
Another coolant change, I should' ve asked ECS if they would replace coolant too? ::banghead:

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[danewilson77]

Just drain, and catch it through a strainer (cheese cloth). Then re-use it.

[imola red zhp]

Just drain, and catch it through a strainer (cheese cloth). Then re-use it.

Copy that, will do
Thanks DW

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[BCS_ZHP]

Two final updates:
1. Bimmerworld's credit on defective parts was totally underwhelming. I bought a new expansion tank for $89 and upper radiator hose for $34, both from the dealer, to replace their bad parts from the kit, Bimmerworld only refunded me $50. Offered them receipts, whatever they wanted, they were courteously professional but unwilling to refund my costs of parts (and not counting labor from the indy). Told them I'd take a refund check vice a store credit, and that's the end of ordering parts from BW.
2. Sold the 325 and the new owner called back today to say it overheated. He was teaching his son to drive a manual in a mall parking lot with the a/c on, the temp gauge pegged. 80+ degrees today and a new stick driver, not the best scenario for straining the cooling system but it we talked and deduced that the cooling fan didn't turn on. Told him to unplug it and jump across the motor to see if it was the fan motor or a sensor. Fan motor engaged fine, so which sensor is likely the culprit?

[aurelius]

Probably the sensor in the lower radiator hose.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l584/aurelius3/Random%20BMW%20Pics/tempsensorleak.jpg

[BCS_ZHP]

I replaced that one during the cooling system refresh, even an OEM part, then only 2K miles since. Could that sensor go bad that fast?

[danewilson77]

I replaced that one during the cooling system refresh, even an OEM part, then only 2K miles since. Could that sensor go bad that fast?

Anything is possible...though unlikely.

[aurelius]

If you're game to help the guy out, I'd go see the car and figure out what's really going on.

I'm not following the "jump across the motor" part above. To what did he connect the fan to jump it?

[BCS_ZHP]

Said he alligator clipped wires to the positive & ground terminals under the hood, then to the fan motor and it engaged.

[aurelius]

Well, unlikely as it is to be bad, that switch noted above is indeed the fan switch. Maybe have him swap it out. Presumably the existing switch is under warranty? If he has your parts and service receipts, seems he may get a free replacement.

Since he seems to know what he's doing, first have him check the switch with a DMM. Bentley should have the relevant info.

[BCS_ZHP]

He has another E46, I suggested he swap the sensor between cars. And if bad, he has the receipt so he could go try to get a replacement. Gave him that advice last night, haven't heard anything back yet.

[imola red zhp]

Just drain, and catch it through a strainer (cheese cloth). Then re-use it.

DW straining worked fine, about 3 quarts drained to replace defective lower hose,refilled and ran no problem. Maybe a couple of more bleeds....

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[danewilson77]

DW straining worked fine, about 3 quarts drained to replace defective lower hose,refilled and ran no problem. Maybe a couple of more bleeds....

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Nice.

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[imola red zhp]

Stiil getting light leak from lower hose upper connection to thermostat, replaced hose no joy, suspect bad thermostat housing. Leaks from hose retaining ring about a drop every 15 min...

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[imola red zhp]

Bump for any troubleshooting ideas , ECS is sending out a themostat, which.I can credit for if it cures the leak... But I looking past the thermostat in case it doesnt fix leak..??

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[BCS_ZHP]

Did you replace the hose with OEM or aftermarket? My problem ended up being a non-OEM hose, the tolerances for the plastic-to-plastic mating were not tight enough.

[imola red zhp]

Did you replace the hose with OEM or aftermarket? My problem ended up being a non-OEM hose, the tolerances for the plastic-to-plastic mating were not tight enough.

Thanks yes, both hoses OEM and themostat is OEM,

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[LivesNearCostco]

Do you still have the old lower radiator hose? You could fit it to the new thermostat when it arrives, fill the hose with water and hang them up with some string for 10 minutes to see if it leaks. Make sure the hose end (old and new) have the O-ring in place before attaching to the thermostat and the wire clip is raised/out before connecting the hose. Also lubricate the O-rings with coolant before wiggling it into the t-stat ends.

[imola red zhp]

Do you still have the old lower radiator hose? You could fit it to the new thermostat when it arrives, fill the hose with water and hang them up with some string for 10 minutes to see if it leaks. Make sure the hose end (old and new) have the O-ring in place before attaching to the thermostat and the wire clip is raised/out before connecting the hose. Also lubricate the O-rings with coolant before wiggling it into the t-stat ends.

Great idea still have old hose and old themostat but that is trashed. Willbtry when new ine comes hopefully tomorrow
Thanks

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[imola red zhp]

Leak stopped did o ring seat????? About 250 miles no drip....
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[LivesNearCostco]

The hose heard you're part of the Mafia and decided to behave.

[imola red zhp]

The hose heard you're part of the Mafia and decided to behave.

Yup, +1

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[quikryptonite]

So, on a scale of 1 to 10, 1 being filling your tires with air and 10 being a complete engine overhaul... How difficult is this? I'm thinking about tackling it armed with some DIY's and the collective wisdom of the mafia to get me out of any trouble I might find myself in.

I'd like to save some money and I was looking at this kit:
Kit 2 (http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Engine/Cooling/Refresh_Kit/ES263522/)

Successful DIY that I have done so far:
Oil Change
Differential Fluid Flush and Fill
Replaced alternator and accessory drive belts
Replaced new headlight assembly

[Hermes]

scale of 1 - 10, I would say around 4. Just take your time and it will be fine

[aurelius]

If you've experienced alt and drive belt removal AND have a manual transmission (ie no mechanical fan to remove), you're ready to roll.

I ordered what I wanted a la carte from ECS because I did not need new belts, wanted the GAS ET cap (http://germanautosolutions.com/bmw_solutions/cooling_system/12_bar_coolant_cap/product_bmw_12_bar_cap.php) instead, and already had several gallons of BMW coolant. All parts were BMW, except the ECS aluminum WP pulley, Wahler thermostat, and GEBA water pump. If I were to buy a kit, I'd do their Level 2 but I'd get their own mix (http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Engine/Cooling/ES2063861/) of OE and after market stuff, which includes their aluminum WP pulley and saves you a fair amount of coin over the fully OE kit.

Not included in their kits is the ET mounting plate. I didn't get a new one and do not know specific pros and cons of not doing so, other than the obvious fact that it is plastic and exposed to heat cycling. Maybe others can chime in on that subject.

Also not included is the engine block drain plug gasket ring. You don't need a new drain plug but do get a new seal ring (07119963200).

As for difficulty, properly-lubed OE BMW hoses help, especially on the lower. And read up on how to ease ET removal. See DW's good DIY HERE (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?5738-BMW-E46-330i-ZHP-Expansion-Tank-Removal-Made-Easy).

Also worth noting: not all coolant drain/fill/flush instructions mention flushing with distilled water before final refill. This should be done because about 2 quarts remain in your system even after you've drained the distilled water. More detail HERE (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mcYjGHU4lEY&list=PL7A6F39096A23D8B9&index= 32) at 5:00 mins.

[kayger12]

So, on a scale of 1 to 10, 1 being filling your tires with air and 10 being a complete engine overhaul... How difficult is this? I'm thinking about tackling it armed with some DIY's and the collective wisdom of the mafia to get me out of any trouble I might find myself in.

I'd like to save some money and I was looking at this kit:
Kit 2 (http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Engine/Cooling/Refresh_Kit/ES263522/)

Successful DIY that I have done so far:
Oil Change
Differential Fluid Flush and Fill
Replaced alternator and accessory drive belts
Replaced new headlight assembly

Based on what you've done, it's 100% doable for you. I'd say a 3-4.

[quikryptonite]

Thanks guys. I think I'll give it a shot here when it warms up a bit.

[echo46]

I would say 4 ish

[danewilson77]

Have a plan for removal of the expansion tank. That's the one dark horse in this, that can make a 3 hour job......5 hours long.

[Go Horns!]

Does the cooling system have a time period life? I have a 2004 with at 43K on the clock. At some point do I need to do the refresh just because the car is getting to a certain age?

[kayger12]

I go with the Old School Maintenance schedule:

Water pump, thermostat, and t-stat housing at 60K.

Expansion tank, radiator, fan/fan clutch at 90K.

Hoses at 150K.

Coolant change every 2 years.

[aurelius]

To some degree, yes. The radiator, for example, will eventually corrode from the inside even if you never drive the car. But regular and proper coolant flushes every few years will greatly extend radiator life.

But you're probably just fine at that age and mileage. If it were my car and in order to stay ahead of trouble, I'd give the upper hose the squeeze test (when cold), plus replace the 2 drive belts and their related pulleys, tho you're likely plenty safe for another 10k on those items. You could do all of the above plus a coolant flush with an aluminum WP pulley for about $150 (DIY).

[Go Horns!]

Ok thanks. I already order under-drive pulleys. But since I was going to be taking things apart, was wondering if I should just go ahead and really get in there.

[aurelius]

With the summer heat here in TX, I would not go more than 60k on the expansion tank.

Not that it's typical but a friend's '04 330i experienced tank failure (crack and leak) at 57k. And that was in November, 2009, when the car had been in service for just 5 years.

[alexandre]

With the summer heat here in TX, I would not go more than 60k on the expansion tank.

Not that it's typical but a friend's '04 330 experienced tank failure (crack and leak) at 57k. And that was in November.

This is a good example to remind people that these cooling system failures happen because the parts are made of plastic - cheap plastic.
Plastics become brittle and loose their flexibility as they age (hence why we see said tanks leak/blow up all the time). I wouldn't trust an original expansion tank from a 30,000 mi, 2003 car, just as I'd probably wait a little more than 60k between swaps if I drove 20-30k a year.

Evaluate the age/mileage ratio on your car. If it's parked outside 24/7, it might be a good idea to replace the various cooling components every 4 years (basing the 60k estimate on 15k/year) - even if you only do 5-10k a year. Your friend's E.T. probably blew up because it had been in the heat for 9 years.

[Hermes]

upper and lower hose should be changed when you do the t-stat, the same hot pressurized water travels through all of those and makes the plastic ends on the hoses brittle. The hose itself would be fine to 150k, but BMW no longer used that style of hose by the time the E46 was built

[echo46]

Agree with the plastic assessment. I just changed my wife's power steering pump on a 2003 Land Rover. As I was reattaching some of the plastic parts in the engine bay, two plastic pieces broke as I applied but a bit of torque. Frustrating.

[Dave_B]

This job wasn't terrible for all those thinking about doing it.

As others have said, read a few DIY's first, get your parts in order and take your time. Document things if needed.

For me, a key that helps is when a part comes off, if I can, the bolts go back in it, in correct order on the bench. It makes it TONS easier going back together this way.

[echo46]

Yea, I even label all sensors and connectors when I remove them.

[kayger12]

Yea, I even label all sensors and connectors when I remove them.

This. I like being 100% sure when I button things back up.

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