Back in the hunt for a ZHP!

[tracerit]

I've made a few mistakes with my last experience so now Ill seek the help of the mafia in my search for my next ZHP.

I'm 100% set on all these requirements:
Silver Gray
black interior (leather or alcantara)
coupe
6 MT
<$14,000
Clean Title

Mileage wise I"d prefer <100k. I've never owned a car with over 100k miles before, I can't imagine it would be any different than say a car with 80k miles as long as maintenance has been done?



I found this ZHP in Arkansas: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?5806-For-Sale-2004-BMW-330CI-ZHP-118k-mi-Lots-of-recent-service-6MT-Black-cube-trim-Bilsteins
his Autotrader LINK (http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=p&car_id=312664521&dealer_id=66880815&car_year=2004&systime=&doors=&model=&search_lang=en&start_year=1981&keywordsfyc=__emhw__&keywordsrep=122104112&highlightFirstMakeModel=&search_type=both&distance=0&min_price=&rdm=1325988300987&drive=&marketZipError=false&advanced=y&fuel=&keywords_display=zhp&sownerid=608450&lastBeginningStartYear=1981&end_year=2013&showZipError=y&make2=&certified=&engine=&dma=LOS_ANGELES_OC&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&body_code=0&isFlashPlugin=true&transmission=&default_sort=priceDESC&max_mileage=&color=&address=92647&sort_type=priceDESC&max_price=12900&make=BMW&seller_type=b&num_records=25&cardist=1359&standard=false)

The owner seems to have had the car for only a few months and he put quite a bit of work into the car maitnenance wise. That 118k miles worries me though. What kind of PPI tests should I request if I were to consider a car with >100k miles?

Seams on the left driver side bolster seams (pun!) to be coming apart, how much would it cost to sew that together?

The tires are fairly new wiht 5000 miles but are for all weather conditions (dry, rain and snow). I don't foresee any rain in socal for the next few months and summers coming up, should I switch those out for some Hankook Ventus V12s or just run on them and wear them down?

[BCS_ZHP]

Look up Neil's car, a little more than your price target but the mileage is lower and well maintained by a fellow fanatic. You get what you pay for, I've been down that road a couple of times.

[tracerit]

do you have a link?

[BCS_ZHP]

Look at our ZHPs for sale section, page 3, 6 from the bottom, his name is Neil22. Car is located in Maryland, I'm in Virginia. If its still available, I might be able to check it out for you next weekend.

[tracerit]

ah yeah i saw that one. i wish it was black interior. just compiled a bunch of questions to send off to AR ZHP.

[webster]

good luck with your hunt! good thing you got out of that other deal. as an owner of a car that meets all your criteria, let me tell you, you're on to something :)

[WOLFN8TR]

I personally wouldn't rule out a car over 100K. I bought my ZHP with 96K and it runs perfect. I took it to a BMW dealer for a complete inspection before purchasing. For $150 they went thru the entire car and told me everything that was wrong with it. Overall it was in great shape, only needed a OFH gasket, belts and a tune up.

[Hermes]

Good luck on finding the right car for you. Just don't be in such a hurry and the car will show up eventually

[mimalmo]

I've got eveything on your list but the Coupe part.

[Hermes]

I've got eveything on your list but the Coupe part.

We can weld your rear doors shut and fill the seam ;)

[zhpnsnv]

Mileage wise I"d prefer <100k. I've never owned a car with over 100k miles before, I can't imagine it would be any different than say a car with 80k miles as long as maintenance has been done?



Off the top of my head (and probably omitting some important items):
Generally:
- regular diff and manual trans fluid changes (30k)
- regular oil changes with BMW oil or equivalent (I prefer 7.5 k intervals - you may differ)
- records of everything
- should have all new belts
- should have just had an inspection with new spark plugs, fuel filter

ZHP Stuff:
- rear shock mounts (and shocks - front as well)
- front control arm bushings, rear trailing arm bushings
- cooling system (radiator, water pump, hoses, stat, stat housing, etc... mine crapped out on my 323i at 140k, general consensus is preventative is good)
- lower intake boot
- power steering hose

Other stuff:
- does it have the 4.5k rpm "dip?"
- does it have the ZHP rattle?
- have the VANOS seals been replaced?
- has the tail light recall been addressed?
- have the o2 sensors been replaced? (doubtful, but why not ask?)

I'm sure our friends here will add to this list all of the items I missed. Cars with all of this stuff addressed are out there - at 118k miles, my car will be such a car! Though it's not your perfect color.

[otisdog]

Having just purchased a ZHP myself, I'll recommend using the BMWUSA website to search....the dealers only keep the cleanest trade ins. Many of the cars were bought at the same dealer, so they have the complete service history on file. Oh, and as somebody else has said, be patient!

[tracerit]

mimalmo, i did consider your car but i'm in love with the way the coupe looks.

zhpnsv, great list! according to the listing for the zhp i listed, almost all those points have been met. i'm close to deciding to giving him a call tonight to make na offer.

otisdog, thanks for the suggestion i just went to bmwusa.com however they don't even have any zhp's listed, let alone 330Ci's 04-06 model years.

[otisdog]

otisdog, thanks for the suggestion i just went to bmwusa.com however they don't even have any zhp's listed, let alone 330Ci's 04-06 model years.

Yes, they do....I've got tp blast home to meet a contractor...when I get back I'll dial you in.

[otisdog]

I'm having trouble posyting a link, but there is 4 grey, 1 black and 1 red currently on their website.

[tracerit]

ah, yeah i see them now. they ddin't show up before because none were manual and under $15k lol.

[tracerit]

Ok, I think i'm going to make an offer for the car, just have a few questions on my steps:

1. Call seller, make offer
2. Most likely get counter offered
3. Agree on a price
4. Set up PPI, tell seller if PPI comes back less than satisfactory, will he be willing to lower price.
5. PPI is done, if results are good, car is officially sold.
6. Document mileage (so seller doesn't drive car while waiting for transportation to be set up).
7. Set up transport (thinking about going through uship.com, how soon will i know until a company wins the bid to transport the car?)
8. Transport is set up, have seller fedex me documents, keys, etc
9. Wait for transport (hopefully not for a month lol)
10. Car is delivered
11. Smog check, register, insure the car
12. Joy :)


EDIT: I forgot the part where I pay the guy.. So since this is private party, how can I be sure i'll get the car after I send the money? Do I just get his drivers license and personal info and use that in case? Is it still good to pay by cashiers check with the car's VIN and mileage noted on the check?

[Hermes]

Sounds like a good plan to me. I think you may have to leave at least one key with the transport co in case they need to rearrange the truck

[danewilson77]

Seller may not lower the price as he knows some suckered will be in, not nearly as knowledgeable as you. Or he may. Are you going with a covered transport? And how will paperwork/money be exchanged?

Don't have answers to you last questions. Rearing for others that have been successful doing this.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

[otisdog]

You might want to insure the car as soon as it becomes yours. For the extra 2 weeks of coverage (or so) it buys you total peace of mind.

[WOLFN8TR]

I would have him take it to a local BMW stealership to have the PPI done.
They will log the mileage at that time on the PPI paperwork. When I had my PPI done it cost $150.
Make an offer after you find out the condition of the car.
Fly out and drive the car home, this eliminates all the crap you went thru before.

Where is this ZHP located?

[webster]

^ totally agreed. don't make an offer until you know the detailed results of a PPI.

[tracerit]

i was thinking if i had the PPI done before the offer, the seller would be in control of the price knowing that now i'm seriously ready to buy and since i've already paid for the PPI i could lose it by not accepting his offer. Then again, it could swing the other way where he knows that i'm serious and he could lose a buyer ready to buy...

the car is the one listed in hte original post, it's in Arkansas.

I've thought about flying out to drive it back but I don't have the time and it would be at least three days of driving. There's not much between AR and CA anyways lol. I guess I could drop by Phoenix (that's where my second job does business with).

As for transport, I would go with open and inexpensive. I'm buying a 120k mile car, i'm pretty sure there's going to be a few blemishes already.

The insuring the car as soon as I buy it is a good idea, i'll note that!

Any tips for how to exchange money and protect myself? (Aside from flying out and doing it in person since it's not feasible at this point).

[webster]

i was thinking if i had the PPI done before the offer, the seller would be in control of the price knowing that now i'm seriously ready to buy and since i've already paid for the PPI i could lose it by not accepting his offer. Then again, it could swing the other way where he knows that i'm serious and he could lose a buyer ready to buy...



don't over-think things. you want to make sure you know everything about the car you're potentially interested in buying. getting the PPI done actually gives you the upper hand in negotiations, in the sense that any issues found with it is instant bargaining power for you. don't worry about the seller thinking "you're serious" because he should assume all buyers are serious, if he himself is serious about selling it.

[WOLFN8TR]

don't over-think things. you want to make sure you know everything about the car you're potentially interested in buying. getting the PPI done actually gives you the upper hand in negotiations, in the sense that any issues found with it is instant bargaining power for you. don't worry about the seller thinking "you're serious" because he should assume all buyers are serious, if he himself is serious about selling it.

EAXCTLY....

More than likely the PPI will come back with a few items that need to be addressed. This was also the case with my car, BMW stated the repairs were going to be $2,000 so I asked the owner to meet me half way and he agreed. It cost me $200 to do them myself.
After you get the PPI done and agree on a price I would suggest having him take the car to the shipping company, get it logged in and ready to ship THEN wire the money or however you are paying him when you receive confirmation. Make sure the method of payment is traceable and make copies!
You got lucky on that last deal getting all your money back. Learn from that experience.

Personally if it were me I would be patient and wait for the right ZHP to pop up locally.

Good Luck....

[midlandtech]

My dad always told me that when buying a car the buyer has all the power so long as you enter the exchange with the mind set of "I dont HAVE to have this car" I had that mind set when looking for my car and it takes a load off because it allows you to put your priorities first and lets you decide on where you make your compromises (ie milage, color etc) for the whole transaction. If I was in your shoes I would make every effort to see the car in person before purchase the plane ticket and loss of income from being gone from work is worth it and should the car be a lemon you are only out those costs

[WOLFN8TR]

Update....:scratchinghead

[tracerit]

i decided i'm going to pass on the 120k Arkansas ZHP. It's too far, and I don't want ot risk the same issue I had before. While i'm doing ok scheduling and borrowing cars, I feel it becoming a strain in the future. As much as I want a ZHP, I'm beginning to think a local Civic SI maybe the best option for me at this point.

[BCS_ZHP]

Tracerit,
Hold tight and be patient, if you cave for a Honda, your heart will hurt every time you see a ZHP.

I'm going to look at a ZHP this afternoon that might fit your bill, I'll PPI it myself and give you a PM report tonight. And don't over think the logistics yet, it may not be the right one but someone in this family will help you find one.
Bruce

[midlandtech]

i decided i'm going to pass on the 120k Arkansas ZHP. It's too far, and I don't want ot risk the same issue I had before. While i'm doing ok scheduling and borrowing cars, I feel it becoming a strain in the future. As much as I want a ZHP, I'm beginning to think a local Civic SI maybe the best option for me at this point.

I would do a regular 330i over an Si if your having problems hunting down a zhp


~Steve
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Crickett]

I would do a regular 330i over an Si if your having problems hunting down a zhp


~Steve
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'd say a cheap (< $2k) E30 in solid running order would be a far better temporary DD! You could even put a smidge more money into making it better than when you bought it & come out with a bit of a profit once you sell it after finding your ZHP!

[WOLFN8TR]

Here is a nice ZHP in Calif.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-BMW-330I-6SPD-ZHP-Package-/140688166193


Tapatalk App

[tracerit]

I talked to my dad earlier today and it's looking more likely i'll be seating myself into a honda (accord most likely). my brother is graduating from his PA school then moving to san francisco in the fall. he's thinking i should get a honda accord now and then pass that off to him and pick myself up an e92 m3 (provided business goes well). if my brother wasn't moving to such a hilly place as SF, the case for the ZHP would be greater. I'll have to think about this more after work, but it would totally suck to drive an automatic for the next few months... :(