View Full Version : What is this? Oil loss and more
HokieZHP
12-10-2011, 03:41 PM
So I just had my oil changed 3k miles ago and my oil light came on when I turned the car off the other night. I brought it up to temp, parked on a level spot, let sit for 10 minutes and checked it. It's at the lowest acceptable level if not slightly below. This also happened right before I had my oil changed.
The other issue is that recently my car has been bucking when I accelerate gradually around 1.5-3k rpm. It's noticeable enough that my girlfriend asked me why my car is bucking while i'm accelerating or cruising at lower speeds.
Between these two things can anyone help me diagnose what's wrong? I have NOT done Vanos yet btw.
kayger12
12-10-2011, 06:19 PM
Bogging can definitely be the vanos seals.
As far as the oil loss, I'd start checking the usual suspects: vcg (look for oil on the exhaust manifold heat shield on the passenger side rear of the motor) and oil filter housing gasket (look for oil on the waffle portion of the driver's side of the block).
HokieZHP
12-10-2011, 06:24 PM
Thanks for the response. I'll be putting a tad of oil in there before driving home Tuesday where I can get under the car and start poking around.
kayger12
12-10-2011, 06:26 PM
Sounds good. Let us know what you find.
llll1l1ll
12-12-2011, 04:40 AM
FWIW, an easy way to diagnose the VCG leak is to have the HVAC system running while you're driving and start sniffing to smell for burning oil. It's a pretty nasty leak on my car - I can see the stain it's leaving on the "shelf" of the exhaust manifold gasket (I don't know how else to explain it).
It sounds like VANOS would be the main culprit of your bucking. And if it's bad enough that your girlfriend notices, it might be time to consider replacing it. If you're not mechanically inclined, or like me, you don't have enough space and time to undertake this repair, take it up to Import Motor Werks in Raleigh. They have 20% VANOS service right now (and they use Beisan Systems!). If you were going to use the Dr. VANOS kit, the parts almost equate to what they quoted me for the job.
For the record, I haven't had it done yet, but I am looking forward to getting it done.
mikeyb74
12-12-2011, 06:10 AM
What color was the light? Red or Yellow? If it's red you have low oil pressure and if it's yellow the oil level sensor is faulty. If you end up replacing the OLS make sure you replace it with either a Behr Hella or BMW OEM not some knock off part.
static667
12-12-2011, 07:49 AM
My car seems to eat oil as well. I haven't noticed any smoke, burnt oil smell, dripping, or anything. I just keep up with the level and add when necessary.
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kayger12
12-12-2011, 09:24 AM
What color was the light? Red or Yellow? If it's red you have low oil pressure and if it's yellow the oil level sensor is faulty.
Yellow when he shuts it off means it's one quart low.
Yellow on start up means bad sensor.
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HokieZHP
12-12-2011, 10:43 AM
I have yellow on shutdown and then it starts yellow and goes red on startup.
The light doesn't come on every single time I shut the car off or turn it on though.
llll1l1ll
12-12-2011, 10:44 AM
Yellow on start up meaning when I turn the key to the "ON" position and the yellow light comes on then the red light (this is before I start the car)?
I have a hunch mine is on the fritz because it came on while I was driving once not to mention it seems to be crying wolf because it'll claim it's low and then it's not actually really even that low.
HokieZHP
12-12-2011, 12:18 PM
Yes that's correct it's before I turn the car on. The light is not on at all when I'm driving.
kayger12
12-12-2011, 01:11 PM
Bad sensor is supposed to trigger the yellow light for 30 seconds after start up.
The yellow and red cycle of the oil light as you start the car is part of the idiot light test.
HokieZHP
12-12-2011, 01:31 PM
And then what about the yellow on shutdown?
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kayger12
12-12-2011, 02:28 PM
And then what about the yellow on shutdown?
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Yellow on shutdown means one quart low.
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edlvrt
12-12-2011, 02:30 PM
Yellow at shutdown= the car thinks your oil level is low. Confirm with the dipstick. Mine intermittently gives me the yellow light after shutdown, but the level has always been correct on the dipstick.
HokieZHP
12-12-2011, 04:09 PM
Alright thanks. I did put 1/2 quart in there and it brought it up to the middle of the acceptable range. It was topped off only 3k miles ago so there's definitely a leak cause it's not burning oil. I should be home tomorrow so I can get under it.
llll1l1ll
12-13-2011, 04:19 AM
Bad sensor is supposed to trigger the yellow light for 30 seconds after start up.
Didn't know that. Thanks!
echo46
12-13-2011, 06:21 AM
I'm betting on the oil housing gasket. I think if it was VCG he would have smelled burning oil a long time ago.
HokieZHP
12-13-2011, 10:22 AM
Well I know there's some leaking out of the front left corner of the valve head cover gasket which made me think it could be the oil separator but I'll look at the housing gasket as well.
Due to certain friends of mine hosting a bunch of very fun "social gatherings" I may not go home until Thursday haha but I'll post what I find when I do get home
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echo46
12-13-2011, 10:49 AM
Could be the CCV but I'm not sure you would be losing that much oil.
MrMaico
12-13-2011, 11:24 AM
Alright thanks. I did put 1/2 quart in there and it brought it up to the middle of the acceptable range. It was topped off only 3k miles ago so there's definitely a leak cause it's not burning oil. I should be home tomorrow so I can get under it.
I would bring it all the way up to the full mark. I noticed mine started coming on at shut down last summer but the level was just above halfway on the dipstick so I never even gave a thought to it possibly being the cause. It would only come on after a short, first drive of the day and if I would turn the key to on without starting the car and then shut the key off before starting the car it wouldn't do it. Considering the wierd behavior I figured it must be the level sensor, replaced that and still the same issue. Even though I did an oil change when I replaced it I didn't quite have enough oil in it to bring it to the full mark. If I had, I would have cured the problem.:foottap
Then I found a post on another forum that said he cured the same issue by replacing his battery so I tried that and still no luck. THEN on another forum someone mentioned that his was overly picky about the oil being completely full before he quit getting the light on shut down. Topped the oil off all the way and haven't had it come on since!
A lot of work and money wasted over a non issue. So now I have an old but working sensor and battery sitting in the garage.
Barry
HokieZHP
12-13-2011, 12:57 PM
After a quick parking lot diagnosis it may be the ccv. I got the car up to temp and took the dipstick out a couple inches and heard a sucking sound and the engine ran a little rougher which makes me think that there's too much vacuum in the engine and it's pulling oil into it and burning a little bit of it. We'll see though. It may be in the early stages of going bad though.
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RVAzhp
12-15-2011, 09:47 PM
my car burns about a quart maybe a quart and a half between oil changes? seemed to be a normal occurring thing with ZHPs when i did the research when i first bought it. runs fine. has been checked out? no leaking etc.
my oil light doesn't work anymore, so i just check it regularly (once a month depending on driving habits).
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