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View Full Version : Oil Leak: Found - Now New Problem..



nike001
11-12-2011, 04:12 PM
Ok. So.. Tech found my oil leak when changing my oil. Don't know how I or the other tech missed it but we did.. It was painfully obvious.

Now, the tech told me to order this stud. #14 and the appropriate flange nut to screw onto it.
http://realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/s/v/20.png

Here is the picture of what mine looks like:
http://i359.photobucket.com/albums/oo37/bsktsk8ter9/ca69d20f.jpg

My problem now is that this stud just freely comes in and out of that hole and doesn't screw in/out. When I try to put the flange nut on it.. it goes to a point until it pulls the stud out because it sits freely in there.

Do I have to take my valve cover and vanos out again for this stud to sit in there correctly or what? I'm about to just scrap this stud and nut and just put the appropriate size bolt in there and call it a day. Will that be okay to do?

H

Hornung418
11-12-2011, 05:01 PM
Strange...

It wouldn't hurt to take it apart again and look at the threads in the hole. I wouldn't want you to ruin the threads on the current bolt. But you'll want to get the proper torque specs for what ever you decide to put in there to stop the leak.

danewilson77
11-12-2011, 05:05 PM
So....is the current one busted off?

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nike001
11-12-2011, 05:09 PM
In 'my' picture, you can see me holding the new stud with the bolt on it. I'm not sure if the old one is busted off inside or what..

But my new stud freely slides in & out of the hole. It doesn't align with the threads at all

danewilson77
11-12-2011, 05:16 PM
In 'my' picture, you can see me holding the new stud with the bolt on it. I'm not sure if the old one is busted off inside or what..

But my new stud freely slides in & out of the hole. It doesn't align with the threads at all

Does it go in....all the way to the nut....in the pic?

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Hornung418
11-12-2011, 05:19 PM
It should take the whole bolt...right? Then the nut caps it off when the VANOS unit is replaced.

nike001
11-12-2011, 05:20 PM
Yup. But when i tighten the nut... it pulls the stud out, because the stud is freely sitting in there.

danewilson77
11-12-2011, 05:22 PM
And you are sure you have pc 14?

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nike001
11-12-2011, 05:32 PM
And you are sure you have pc 14?

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#14? This?
http://i359.photobucket.com/albums/oo37/bsktsk8ter9/034d58cf.jpg

I didn't use it.. thinking that I wouldn't need it. I dont think that this has anything to do with my problem though..


It should take the whole bolt...right? Then the nut caps it off when the VANOS unit is replaced.

Not sure what you mean..

danewilson77
11-12-2011, 05:38 PM
No...I guess I meant pc 15. Yes....the bolt should bottom out in hole...then nut compresses gasket between vanos and head.

When you put the stud in....how much sticks out? Does it seem to be the correct amount?

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nike001
11-12-2011, 05:40 PM
quite a bit sticks out.. doesn't seem to be the correct amount. Thats why I feel like I have to take it all apart again..

danewilson77
11-12-2011, 05:42 PM
So....you purchased the car this way...correct?

I fear that part of the old stud snapped off in the hole.

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Hornung418
11-12-2011, 05:42 PM
You removed the old #15 piece, correct?

nike001
11-12-2011, 05:42 PM
Nope. I think we lost it when we did the VANOS a few weeks back.

nike001
11-12-2011, 05:44 PM
You removed the old #15 piece, correct?
I'm not sure. I didn't 'take' this stud out. I just found out it was missing. So now i have a stud, and a hole. And that stud diamater is too small for that hole for it to properly screw in.

Hornung418
11-12-2011, 05:49 PM
You need to remove the VANOS unit and check the mounting point in the head for any debris. Once clear, you need to replace the small ring and torque the stud to the proper spec (Dunno what that is, fully tightened and a quarter turn more should be fine). Once that's done then you can remount the VANOS unit and torque the nut to the proper spec of 11 lb/ft.

I think that's the best option.

nike001
11-12-2011, 05:53 PM
That's what I though. But what is on the other side of these studs? Here is a pic I got off of beisan's DIY.

http://www.beisansystems.com/procedures/vanos_procedure_files/image058.jpg

I might just get a bolt and screw that in there and be done with it

Hornung418
11-12-2011, 05:57 PM
Nothing, it's just threaded in and tightened down.

danewilson77
11-12-2011, 06:04 PM
If you took the old one off...because it probably came out with the nut....then the new one should thread right in. I'm not sure you have the correct stud. If you do...and it came out when tightening the nut, then the threads must be damaged.

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nike001
11-12-2011, 06:05 PM
Then I wonder why mine isn't going in correctly??


If you took the old one off...because it probably came out with the nut....then the new one should thread right in. I'm not sure you have the correct stud. If you do...and it came out when tightening the nut, then the threads must be damaged.

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If anything, its the stud. Like I said before, it's the STUD that doesn't have the same size diamater as the hole. It's smaller. That's why it moves freely in/out.

Hornung418
11-12-2011, 06:22 PM
Oh...well then you need the proper stud. Reference different motors and see if they are the same part. Then get the correct one from work.

danewilson77
11-12-2011, 06:35 PM
Then I wonder why mine isn't going in correctly??



If anything, its the stud. Like I said before, it's the STUD that doesn't have the same size diamater as the hole. It's smaller. That's why it moves freely in/out.

Yes....I think the stud is wrong or threads are stripped from internals of hole.

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Hornung418
11-12-2011, 06:44 PM
So...Helicoil/Timesert would be the next step?

danewilson77
11-12-2011, 06:46 PM
If he indeed does have the correct stud.

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Hornung418
11-12-2011, 07:04 PM
So if the stud is the wrong part, will the correct stud rethread the hole?

nike001
11-12-2011, 07:17 PM
I'm about 99% sure it's the proper stud. It's the same as all the other ones..

nike001
11-14-2011, 12:36 PM
It's the same stud. I just couldn't get it to screw in because I didn't know where the threads were. But the stud screws in to the block... I did it without removing anything. This should have fixed my problem..

danewilson77
11-14-2011, 01:44 PM
It's the same stud. I just couldn't get it to screw in because I didn't know where the threads were. But the stud screws in to the block... I did it without removing anything. This should have fixed my problem..

Good deal.

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nike001
01-30-2012, 01:29 PM
Well, lol... bumping this thread back up. Ever since I got the stud in... it wouldn't thread in all of the way. I'd get it to thread *partly* into the head before my fingers couldn't spin the stud in any longer. Then when I put the nut on.. it would pull the stud out.

Coincidentally, I found out that I lost the stud over the weekend after messing with my headlights/fx-r's. I ordered a new stud again from work, but is there any new ideas on how to thread this in? My main problem is that I can't thread it in tight enough because my fingers can't do it. Will I need to remove my VANOS again? (please say no, please say no)

Hornung418
01-30-2012, 02:36 PM
You need to get two nuts that match the stud and spin them on together. Then turn the one on the outside to torque the stud in. That's my best guess...but in all likely hood, you will need to remove your VANOS unit to get them both on. Sorry to hear, Dalton :(

nike001
01-30-2012, 02:47 PM
You need to get two nuts that match the stud and spin them on together. Then turn the one on the outside to torque the stud in. That's my best guess...but in all likely hood, you will need to remove your VANOS unit to get them both on. Sorry to hear, Dalton :(
Yep, I learned about doing this earlier this afternoon. I'll definitely try doing that first. The tech at work I was talking to went immediately to the "your threads are problem screwed" idea first.. which scared me. But I doubt that's it since the previous stud screwed in and out with no problems.

I REALLY don't feel like taking my VANOS off again...haha.