ZKW Burnt Projector Bowl Repair/Retrofit DIY doityourself

[cakM3]

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/Library2/images_zpsb9fba546.jpeg


I am in progress of doing some much needed file maintenance and unfortunately all the links to my pics have been broken... please bear with me while I work on my DIY (will take some time due to college studies and work). My apologies for those seeking my diy but if you have any questions please contact me and I'll be happy to help out in any way I can. :thumbsup




This DIY is picture intensive!

Part I

History:
I have an ‘03 330i ZHP with ZKW headlight assemblies. The ZKW projector bowls on both the driver's and passenger's side were burned out as you can see in the picture below....


http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/Drivers-PassBurntBowls.jpg

I checked my local BMW dealership to find out how much each headlight assembly would cost and found out they would run me about $1200 each. At this point I realized that this would be a recurring problem so I began my research to find a more permanent fix to this problem. As I began my research, I found out that the projector bowls used in the ZKW headlights were plastic. PLASTIC?????? No wonder why these projector bowls burn out over time! Anyway, I found several DIYs through different forums but nothing that was easy to follow and complete for the inexperienced to follow without extensive researching. So I decided to post my experience for others. Hopefully, this DIY will help others to perform their retrofit.



This is just my guide on how I performed this retrofit.


***** DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK *****

*** If you don't know what you are doing chances are you will screw it up so I would recommend that you find someone who is familiar with this type of work. Doing this DIY does not, in any way, hold me accountable. ***


***** Thanks to Botond Pal "BP" for helping with all the pics! *****



Credit also goes to "Ozymandias" over at Bimmerfest from his DIY for which I would not have attempted my DIY, thank you

Ozy's diy was used as a base reference for mine and can be found here: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=449574Page%201%20of%2029 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=449574Page%201%20of%2029)

Also thanks to SNA77 for his many DIYs. They have been very helpful to me during my research and development of this DIY :thumbsup


Tools I used are:
- Flat blade screwdriver
- Phillips screwdriver
- T-15 driver
- T-25 driver
- 8mm ¼” socket
- ¼” socket extender
- ¼” screw driver
- 10mm ¼” socket
- Hex Key set
- Electrical tape
- Needle nose pliers
- 3M double-sided tape
- Dremel and dremel kit
- Soldering Iron w/ solder
- JB Weld
- Very small jewlers screwdriver flat blade
- A Sharpie Marker (Black)

Additional items to have prior to starting this DIY...

- OEM ///M3 projector bowl assemblies
- OEM ///M3 projector shrouds

(I cannot emphasize enough that you need to have the original ///M3 projector bowls or this DIY will not work 100%)

For those with cold weather package:
- Nozzle clips: BMW PN: 61 67 0 004 457
- Washer Nozzle: BMW PN: 61 67 8 362 823

- ZKW to OEM M3 Bi-Xenon solenoid controller circuit from Wolstentech.com website link: http://www.wolstentech.com/products/bixenon/bixenon.php (http://www.wolstentech.com/products/bixenon/bixenon.php)

This is the OEM ///M3 Bi-Xenon Projector assembly I purchased from eBay for $50 :)
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/51-disconnectBoshlensfromM3projector4.jpg

I got the other ///M3 projector assembly for $75 shipped, same part. Notice the brand of the solenoid....hint....hint....


Okay... Let's get started :)

The first step is to remove your headlights. For those lucky enough to have the cold weather package this will take a little bit longer to remove because the headlight washer nozzle will get in the way. You need to exercise a lot of patience to disconnect this washer nozzle before fully removing the headlight assembly or you will break the nozzle. Believe me, I know…:^)

The replacement washer nozzle part number is: 61 67 8 362 823.

Cost for this item is around $65 depending on where you get it so keep that in mind when taking out your headlight assembly. It usually takes somewhere around 30 minutes to an hour to take out the headlight assemblies. Basically, what you need to do is:

- Remove the turn signals

- Remove the washer jets (for those who have the cold weather package)

- Remove the lower bottom painted headlight trim

- Remove the headlight seal gasket (the black trim attached to the headlight assembly)

- Remove the 4 retaining screws (8mm size socket will remove them)

- The bottom two are the hardest to remove - take your time, have spare screws in case you lose them while taking them out…

For a full description on how to remove headlights, go to this link: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?p=9217044#post9217044 (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?p=9217044#post9217044)

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/01-ZKWHeadlights.jpg

Start by removing the securing screws to the headlights (8 mm screws). There are two on top and two on the bottom (the bottom ones are hardest to remove, especially when they are corroded or have headlight nozzles installed).

This is how I set up the 8mm socket with extension and screwhandle...now you know why I used electrical tape. This way when you are trying to get to the lower two screws underneath the headlight assemblies, you will not lose the socket.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/04-8mmscrew.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/02-UnscrewHeadlights.jpg

An 8mm ¼” socket is used to remove the securing screws to the headlight assemblies.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/03-UnscrewHeadlights.jpg

In the above picture, the right bottom headlight screw is located to the right of the headlight washer nozzle. It is a very tight fit, which is why I showed the setup I used to take them out…

Once the securing screws have been taken out, the next phase is to disconnect all electrical connections to the headlight assembly as well as your Angel Eyes (if installed).

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/05-DisconnectAEs.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/06-UnplugHeadlights.jpg

A picture of the headlight assembly with wires disconnected.
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/07-DisconnectedHeadlight.jpg

One thing to note regarding the bottom securing screws. In my case, I found them completely corroded and extremely hard to remove. These were most likely the original screws from when the car was brand new. I almost stripped the heads trying to get these out. These screws will be replaced with new parts.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/09-CorrodedHeadlightretainingscrew.jpg

A close-up view of the headlight washer nozzle for the lucky ones with cold weather package!

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/10-Headlightwashernozzle.jpg

Removing the headlight assembly (with headlight washer nozzles), it was such a PITA to remove without breaking the nozzle connection (my first time doing it). I ended up braking my passenger’s side while taking it out, fortunately, I had a spare laying around!

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/11-RemovingHeadlightfromcar.jpg

I was using my iPhone to take a picture of the headlight washer nozzle connection (see below picture). It’s a very tight fit, which is why you need to exercise a lot of patience or risk breaking the nozzle connection. If you break the nozzle connection then you will need a new nozzle.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/IMG_2039.jpg

Just to the left of the headlight nozzle is the connection you need to disconnect prior to pulling out the headlight assembly (circled in red). Those of you who do not have this consider yourself lucky. :biggrin

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/12-Washernozzlehose.jpg

The washer nozzle hose disconnected. Below is a closeup picture of the washer nozzle and the fragile neck that gets broken if too much pressure is applied while trying to disconnect the hose clamp and attached washer hose.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/13-Washernozzleconnection-1.jpg

The part of the nozzle that tends to break off if you are not careful is the right part where you plug the hose in. The lip will literally break off the neck and then you will end up replacing the whole nozzle assembly after shelling out another $64.

Here is the part number in case you need another: 61 67 8 362 823.

I would recommend having one on hand just in case you break one. The one on the passenger's side is the one you will most likely break if you have never removed your headlight before. There is less slack concerning the hoses on that side and it’s a very tight fit to disconnect the attached hose.

Now that the headlight washer is disconnected from the headlight assembly, we can now pull out the headlight assembly to begin our work...broken trim insert has been replaced...
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/IMG_1837.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/IMG_1836.jpg



Removing the Washer Nozzle (skip this part of the DIY if this does not apply to you):

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/15-HeadlightNozzleAssembly.jpg

The headlight nozzle has two clips on either side that needs to be popped out. I used a very thin flat blade to put the clips in a position to allow them to slide out. It took some time but eventually I was able to get them out. Do this when you have your headlights out so when putting them back in it will be easier to reassemble.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/16-removingheadlightnozzleassy.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/18-nozzleassyretainingclips-1.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/19-nozzleretainingclipsonheadlight-1.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/IMG_1833.jpg

First view of my driver's side burned out projector bowl. The crack on the upper tab is a cob-web…there’s no crack there….just sayin’ :biggrin
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/20-BurnedDriversZKWProjectorBowl.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/21-BurnedDriverssideProjectorBowl2.jpg

Looking through the opening you can see how much of the projector bowl is burned out.


Taking apart the headlight assemblies - this is the same for both headlight assemblies.

- Unclip the three top clips, the side clips, and the lower three clips. (top 3 clips shown)
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/22-Disassemblingheadlightassy1-1.jpg

- Once all clips are detached, you can carefully pull off the headlight lens as pictured below….

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/IMG_1828.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/24-Disassemblingheadlightassy3.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/IMG_1827.jpg

Now comes the scary part....replacing the projector assembly....

- Take off the trim piece but be easy when taking this part off or you will break it.
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/25-Disassemblingheadlightassy4-1.jpg

- If you have angel eyes installed, you will now take this off.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/IMG_1826.jpg

Angel Eyes removed - extending the headlight housing using the hex wrench (pictured below) This part makes removal of the projector housing easy.

- Unscrew the headlight housing as shown below using a hex bit - easiest to use the tool with a longer bit sort of like a screwdriver but in the proper sized hex bit (similar to the pic below).

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/ScreenShot2011-11-11at94621PM.png
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/28-Disassemblingheadlightassy6.jpg


Fully extend the headlight housing as far as it will go - both top screws fully open.

The black auto-level retaining clip pictured below is the part you need to disconnect next using a long flat blade screwdriver. This is a PITA to do and you need to take your time and be careful not to break anything. The auto-leveling mechanism inside will pop out when the clip is spread out far enough…not hard to do, but just take your time and apply just enough pressure to spread the clip to allow the auto-leveling mechanism to pop out (see pic below – auto-leveling mechanism connected to the lower center clip on the ZKW housing).

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/30-Disassemblingheadlightassy8-1.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/ScreenShot2011-11-11at101346PM.png

The auto-leveling clip on the ZKW housing assembly that you need to use a flat blade screwdriver I was talking about pictured below by my index finger.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/34-headlighthousingautolevelclip.jpg


In the picture below:

The next part you need to do is to disconnect the ZKW housing assembly from the headlight assembly. Pry the two retaining clips (one by each fingers). Once you have this pryed apart the housing assembly will simply slip out. Don't need to pry too much. This is the center top clip.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/33-headlighthousingclip-1.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/35-headlightassyclip-1.jpg

On the ZKW headlight assembly, there are three points to disconnect the headlight housing from the ZKW assembly. Top center clip (shown in previous picture by my finger) mates with top center point in picture below, the auto-leveling rod (by my thumb in the pic below) attaches to the bottom part of the headlight housing, and the top right connection point is where the housing finally attaches to. When disconnecting the housing, take your time and do not force anything.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/32-Disassembledheadlightassy-1.jpg

Taking out the Burned out ZKW projector assemblies:

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/ScreenShot2011-11-11at101329PM.png

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/ScreenShot2011-11-11at102527PM.png

- Unscrew the 4 torx screws to take out the old ZKW projectors from the projector housing.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/41-ZKWLenshousing-plastic.jpg

The ZKW Xenon shrouds clip onto the projectors from the hole circled in red. All you have to do is use a long screwdriver to pop the clips off the projector assembly and the shrouds will come out allowing you to take off the projector assembly from the projector housing assembly.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/42-ZKWlenshousing-plastic2-1.jpg

When transferring the ZKW lens to the OEM M3 projector assembly, you will also need to use the OEM M3 projector shroud. The ZKW projector shrouds will not fit on the OEM M3 projector assembly, the retaining clips are short and thick.


Transferring the ZKW lens into the Bosh ///M3 Projector assembly

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/48-disconnectBoshlensfromM3projector.jpg

- remove screws to separate projector bowl from projector lens

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/50-disconnectBoshlensfromM3projector3.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/49-disconnectBoshlensfromM3projector2.jpg

- bend retaining clips to allow removal of old lens

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/52-disconnectBoshlensfromM3projector5-1.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/53-disconnectBoshlensfromM3projector6.jpg


Unlike the plastic ZKW lens holders which use a very brittle clip which will break off when you pry it enough to move the lens, the M3 lens holders, being metal, uses metal tabs that can be bent to allow removal of the retaining ring and lens. One of many tabs pointed by my finger (see above pics). This is easily bent with a screwdriver, in my case a torx-head.

Here is a video I made showing how easy it is to swap out the Bosh lens for the ZKW - bear with me since this is the first time I have ever made a video along with this diy...:)



http://vimeo.com/31990135



Trimming and fitting the OEM M3 projector assemblies

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/45-ZKWhousingassymountingpoints.jpg

As you can see by the pic below, the OEM M3 projector assembly do not line up with the ZKW projector assembly mounting points. We will have to do some trimming and drilling to get the M3 projector assemblies to mount correctly.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/ScreenShot2011-11-11at101415PM.png

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/IMG_1710.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/IMG_1711.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/IMG_1709.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/46-sizingM3projectoronZKWhousing.jpg

- Line up the M3 projector assembly and mark the new mounting points using a Black Sharpie. Looking through where the M3 projector housing screw holes are place a dot using the sharpie so you have all 4 holes marked on the housing assembly.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/47-sizingM3projectoronZKWhousing2.jpg

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/TrimmingZKWHousingassy6.jpg

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/SharpieMarked.jpg

In order to get to this point I had to do some trimming of the headlight mounting bracket which I will outline below:


Trimming the headlight mounting bracket

- First line up the ///M3 projector assembly onto the headlight mounting bracket to see what you have to trim off and mark those places using the black sharpie.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/ScreenShot2011-11-11at101415PM.png

- next get that Dremel and use a cutting disk (be sure to have plenty on hand as these will snap easily)


You have one shot at this so measure and recheck before you begin cutting and trimming

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/Trimming13.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/Trimming12.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/Trimming11.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/Trimming10.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/Trimming9.jpg

Some more trimming at each mounting point - on the most part you should be getting a fairly good idea on what you should have to do...:)

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/Trimming8.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/Trimming7.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/Trimming5.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/Trimming4.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/Trimming.jpg

- Next change out the bits on the Dremel and use a drill bit (will post actual size later today)
- Start drilling your pilot holes for the original retaining screws you took out earlier when removing the original ZKW projectors. (have a steady hand when doing this)

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/MountingM3Projectors1.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/MountingM3Projectors2.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/MountingM3Projectors3.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/MountingM3Projectors4.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/MountingM3Projectors5.jpg

A few holes will come very close to the edge, which is why I chose to use JB Weld to help reinforce those areas from any potential cracking. Passenger's side was done on 29 August and so far with daily driving here in Rhode Island (the land of pot holes), I have not had any issues with my "retrofitted" headlights. Solid as a rock, so to speak :)

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/MountingM3Projectors10.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/MountingM3Projectors7.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/MountingM3Projectors6.jpg

The surface areas around each hole was roughened up a bit so that when I applied JB Weld at each screw hole, those roughed up areas will allow the JB Weld to grab.


Mounting the ///M3 projector housing

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/MountingM3Projectors13.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/MountingM3Projectors18.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/MountingM3Projectors19.jpg

///M3 projector assembly is now mounted onto the original ZKW headlight mounting bracket!

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/MountingM3Projectors15.jpg


Note the nice ZKW lens mounted onto the OEM M3 projector assembly! A few angles of how the M3 projector assembly looks when mounted to the ZKW housing assembly…

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/MountingM3Projectors16.jpg

You can see the screws protruding...not to worry! With the OEM ///M3 shrouds, you won't see them.
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/MountingM3Projectors14.jpg

A little dab of JB Weld...
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/JBWeld13-1.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/JBWeld11.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/JBWeld9.jpg

After about an 10 minutes or so, I snapped on the projector shrouds. Everything lined up perfectly!
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/Success2.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/Success3.jpg


MY FRIENDS - SUCCESS!!!

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/Success4.jpg





Okay, this is it for the time being with more to be added. I was limited to only 100 pics in this post so I had to place another "Part II" post to complete the DIY....look for that as well everyone :thumbsup


Part II will be placed in Post #7

Thanks everyone for being patient...:thumbsup

[Hermes]

http://www.motivationalz.com/pictures/like_a_boss.jpg

[iZHP]

Subscribed.

This is Excellent.

[SoarinZHP]

Absolutely AWESOME DIY - Thank you!

[cakM3]

Thanks everyone! There will be more to add to this DIY....I just ran out of "awake" time and had to get some rest :)

[danewilson77]

Thanks for putting it together Charlie.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

[cakM3]

Part II of my DIY


This part only covers the solenoid converter circuit that I purchased Wolstentech.com at: http://www.wolstentech.com/products/bixenon/bixenon.php (http://www.wolstentech.com/products/bixenon/bixenon.php)

This part of the retrofit DIY consisted of adding an Bi-Xenon controller circuit since the M3 projector Bi-Xenon solenoid required 3 wires whereas the original ZKW Bi-Xenon solenoid required 2 wires. Wolstentech provided the ZKW to OEM M3 Bi-Xenon solenoid controller circuit. Having this circuit allows full Bi-Xenon functionality of the "retrofitted" ZKW headlight assemblies. :thumbsup

Keep in mind that this part of the retrofit is easiest when the ZKW headlight assembly is taken apart. Do this before putting everything back together - after retrofitting the M3 projector assembly onto the ZKW mounting plate.

Remember this step of Part 1 of my DIY?
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/Success4.jpg

Now we are going incorporate the Bi-Xenon solenoid controller circuit into the ZKW headlight assembly..... this part is the easiest of the retrofit, trust me :biggrin

This is the actual circuit board assembly that will interface the original ZKW Bi-Xenon circuit to the M3 AL Bi-Xenon circuit (below).
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/ZKWBiXenonController2.jpg


The Bi-Xenon circuit comes pre-labeled B (black), G (green), R (red) like in the above picture.

I used 3M Double-sided tape to secure the circuit inside the headlight assembly. The bottom part of the circuit board is already epoxy-coated for protection, so this was the ideal solution to adequately secure the circuit board to prevent it from rattling around inside the headlight assembly.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/ZKWBiXenonController3.jpg

I double layered the 3M tape, note the epoxy coating (in black between the circuit board and tape).

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/ZKWBiXenonController5.jpg

Once you have the 3M Double-sided tape applied to the bottom of the controller circuit, place them aside so that you can now begin separating the ZKW wiring from the plug.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/ZKWBiXenonShutter2.jpg

These are the two wires that will attach to one side of the controller circuit (2 wire to 3 wire).

-> Take the wires out of the plug using a very small flat bladed jewelers screwdriver.
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/ZKWBiXenonShutter6.jpg

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/ZKWBiXenonShutter7.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/ZKWBiXenonShutter5-1.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/ZKWBiXenonShutter5.jpg

Do this until you have the two wires free.
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/ZKWBiXenonShutter9.jpg

Next, trim and strip the ends of the wires so that you can apply a coat of solder to them.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/ZKWBiXenonShutter10.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/ZKWBiXenonShutter12-1.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/ZKWBiXenonShutter15.jpg

I highly recommend you apply solder to the ends of the wiring (tinting) so that when you attach them to the circuit board they will provide a good connection and remain connected.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/ZKWBiXenonController1.jpg

I also rounded the ends to provide for more grab when tightening the screws on the controller circuit.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/ZKWBiXenonControllerwiring2.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/ZKWBiXenonControllerwiring1.jpg

This made connection so much easier and I knew that these leads won't ever slip out.
Connecting the leads to the solenoid controller circuit....

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/ZKWBiXenonController6.jpg
All leads connected.
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/ScreenShot2011-11-17at94821PM.png

Once you get to this point all you have to do is mount the solenoid controller circuit into the headlight assembly like this...

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/ZKWBiXenonController9.jpg


Once this is done all you have to do is now put everything back together in reverse order.

Take your time and if you have to, look over Part 1 of the DIY to have a good understanding how to put everything back together.


One last thing....here is a side by side comparison of the retrofitted ZKWs over the diminished ZKWs.

In the picture the driver's side is retrofitted and passenger's side is still the original ZKWs.
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/ScreenShot2011-11-11at101505PM.png

I was astounded by the difference in light output after retrofitting mine. Low beams then high beams.
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/LowBeams2.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/HighBeams2.jpg

In front of the garage: low beams to high beams
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/LowBeams1.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/HighBeams1.jpg



Conclusion:
The ZKW headlights using plastic projector bowls was a really bad idea due to the amount of degradation that occurs over prolonged usage and the expense of having to replace these assemblies since BMW cannot rebuild these. Personally, I understand this and don't have a problem with BMW not rebuilding these headlights, however I feel that they should recognize this issue as a safety issue due to the amount of diminished light output. In my case I had suffered close to 50% diminished output due to burned projector bowls.

Here are my original projector bowls:
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/Drivers-PassBurntBowls-1.jpg

Since I was faced with spending at least $2400 for new headlight assemblies or spend $200 for my solution, obviously, I went with my solution. Having recognized there are more out here with similar issues I decided to make a detailed DIY to help others. I am in no means an expert but hopefully what I have outlined here will empower others to do what I did and find a more permanent solution to this problem. :thumbsup

Finally....I would also like to acknowledge Dane and Steve "Prowlerflyer" for their feedback on the advanced copy of my DIY. Their comments also helped me when I finally posted this DIY. Thanks guys!!!!!

[cakM3]

Thanks for putting it together Charlie.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

No problem Dane :thumbsup

This is something I had wanted to do when I took on this project. Hopefully this will help others with this same exact problem :thumbsup

[SoarinZHP]

Is this a problem with all ZHP's with the xenons?

Charlie - I admire you figuring it out and executing so beautifully. How long did the project take?

[cakM3]

Is this a problem with all ZHP's with the xenons?

Charlie - I admire you figuring it out and executing so beautifully. How long did the project take?

Thanks :thumbsup This is a problem with all ZHP sedans (they have ZKW headlight assemblies)

The project took me a few months to do the research and then a month to get all the parts necessary to execute the project. There are other solutions for sure, but this solution cost me less than $200 to accomplish. The problem is that I did not find any all-inclusive procedures that showed how to do every step. Yes they talked about it but if you have never attempted this type of work, it was intimidating. I was not good with trying this risking a $1200 headlight assembly in case I totally screwed things up. Enter my DIY...:thumbsup

Basically, you need to get two OEM ///M3 projector assemblies (ebay auction), OEM ///M3 projector shrouds (ebay auction), and the solenoid controller circuit I mentioned in my DIY.

All it takes is having the tools, the right procedure, and adequate time to get this done right. When doing this, there is no rushing. Anyway, thanks again for the complements. :)

~Charlie

[nike001]

I've been waiting for this! All that drilling is what scared me into going my route and figuring out how to just fit the whole m3 assembly in place of my old lights..lol

Glad that you transferred over the ZKW lenses..did you modify the cutoff from the AL m3 projectors at all?

[cakM3]

I've been waiting for this! All that drilling is what scared me into going my route and figuring out how to just fit the whole m3 assembly in place of my old lights..lol

Glad that you transferred over the ZKW lenses..did you modify the cutoff from the AL m3 projectors at all?

I hear you about the drilling and trimming....I was scared as well but when I figured it out, I had BP take lots of pics so I can work out this DIY :)
When I transferred my ZKW lens, I did not modify the cutoff on the M3 projector assembly. I have some more reading to do before even thinking of doing this. From what I have read so far it is not a hard process so I will have to see...

[az3579]

Boy did the improved light output make my ride home much safer and enjoyable.
Night and day, folks.


Good knowing that this will not be a problem years down the road again. Thanks for helping me get set up with this awesome swap, C.

[cakM3]

always glad to help BP :)

[Au2bahn]

Thanks for posting this thorough DIY, Charlie

[cakM3]

Thanks for posting this thorough DIY, Charlie

Anytime! I will be coming down for the next annual ZHP Mafia reunion and will be driving down....perhaps we all can meet up to form a caravan when that time comes :thumbsup

If you have any question concerning my DIY please feel free to PM me. :)

[nk_zhp]

Those that have done this mod, was the old ZKW reflector cracked and warped or was it simply burned out on the surface?

[cakM3]

both of my ZKW projector bowls were burnt and had cracks....no warping though...

[nk_zhp]

Ok, so any ideas of "restoring" the OEM bowls are useless. I've spent a lot of time last night looking into various paths to take with solving this and currently I thunk putting FXR projectors into the stock housing much like what you've done here is the way to go. Apparently the light output is extremely good and the pair of brand news ones cost $135. All of the things in this DIY apply but the actual cutout will vary a bit.

[kayger12]

Huge thank you for putting this together, Charlie.

This is one of the best DIYs I've ever seen.

:applause

[cakM3]

Huge thank you for putting this together, Charlie.

This is one of the best DIYs I've ever seen.

:applause

Thanks Keith! If you see anything that can be added to my DIY to make it better please feel free to add to this :thumbsup



I want to add that I did get a pair of FX-R projector assemblies and was planning to retrofit these but at the last minute decided to go with the OEM M3 AL projector assemblies instead.

For one thing, there is a lot more cutting and trimming involved to get the FX-Rs to fit in properly and then trying to get the Xenon shroud to fit properly...that's another thing....

Much easier to go the route I went imho... In the end, I'm pleased with the results and I was able to transfer my original ZKW lens. FTW :thumbsup

[nk_zhp]

Are your FX-Rs for sale? :)

[cakM3]

nk,

Not at the moment. Still deciding whether or not I will retrofit my ///M with these or just swap the Bosh lens for ZKWs....

[sna77]

Charlie, do you consider the ZKW lenses superior to the FX-Rs?

[cakM3]

Steve,

I haven't compared the ZKWs side by side to FX-Rs but can say that looking at the FX-R retrofit guide (through research), it is much more complicated to do than the OEM M3 projector retrofit that I did using my DIY. Just based on the difficulty level of having to retrofit the FX-Rs, I'd say that the ZKWs are better...

I have heard that people who have had their headlights professionally retrofitted with FX-Rs have been extremely pleased with them though. For what I paid ( less than $200) to retrofit my burnt out ZKWs, going this route was well worth it for me. I have lighting that I'm very pleased with and still see the different colors at the cutoff which the ZKW lens provide. Hope this helps :)

[sna77]

Thanks Charlie! Food for thought...

[CERF04ZHP]

Charlie... Excellent DIY. Finally had a chance to read through it. Will get in touch when I'm ready to do it. Thanks again for putting thus together.

Sent from my HTC EVO using Tapatalk.

[cakM3]

No problem Channing! I'm glad to see that this is helping others :thumbsup

[edlvrt]

E46 ZKW HID retrofit with E90 reflector Bowls

Alright, to start, I first heard of the idea to use E90 reflector bowls from Fgin at http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=845704 Additionally, I purchased both of my projectors from Fgin, and he helped me throughout the process. So, here is a big thank you to Fgin:thumbsup

Charlie/mods, I added to Charlie's thread to try and keep the retrofit DIYs consolidated. If you prefer that I move it to its own thread, please let me know.

Why did I choose to go this route? After researching the options, it seemed that the FX-R required a fair amount of modifying and using JB Weld, with the potential for subsequent adjustments to get the lights to align. Charlie (cakM3) has a wonderful DIY at the top of the page, and I used it extensively during my conversion. But again it seemed like a bit more modifying than what I want to do, plus it involved soldering, which I can never get to come out right. The existing wires for the solenoid plug in directly to the new E90 reflector, so that was a plus for me.

One potential negative with this conversion is the way the DS2 bulb that comes with your E46 does not fully seat to get the entire bulb exposed within the reflector. I don't know enough about optics to draw any conclusions on the potential for light loss. You can modify the bulb to seat more fully, but I figured I'd leave that as another project for another rainy day. I am very satisfied with how they work regardless.

I won't go into extreme detail, as I am already standing in Charlie's shadow:rockon, but I'll outline some of my steps. I watched Solidjake's video (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=883541) to get my bearings while disassembling the housing.

Tools Needed:
Flathead, Phillips, and Torx screwdrivers of assorted sizes
Wrenches and sockets
Vice grips, needle noes pliers
Drill and bits
Dremel with cutoff wheel and sanding wheel (with safety glasses)
Liquid electrical tape (the covers on the wires for the bi-xenon solenoid were cracking)
Hammer and long, small diameter rod for removing the pins securing the lens to the reflector housing
Assorted small screws
Thread locker
8 #6 flat washers
An extra set of hands to help remove the projector assembly housing from the exterior shell

OK, remove everything as Charlie explains above. I had difficulty getting the bottom clip that attaches to the self leveling motor to release. Eventually, I used two flat head screwdrivers, one entering the assembly from the low beam bulb opening, the other from the high beam opening. By positioning them on each side of the clip, you can squeeze the screwdrivers together and open the retaining clip slightly. This is where your assistant pulls the projector housing away from the exterior shell. Once that pops off, use your same two screwdrivers, again one per side, to open the two prongs holding the top attachment while your assistant pulls again. The below image gives you an idea of how the screwdrivers work in unison.

2770

Once you have the projector out, remove the bulb (if you haven't already) AND the bulb retaining clip/wire, as that will get used with the new reflector. Save the lens, but the plastic bowl is trash. Mail if to the NHTSA if you want. Also, save all screws/hardware as they will be reused.

Next, on your new E90 projectors, remove the nut and two screws that mount the adaptive headlights motor. Now, you will need your long, narrow rod and hammer to drive the hinge pins out to separate the lens from the reflector. I used a long drill bit. Drive the top pin out the top of the assembly, and knock the bottom pin out of the bottom. I used a 3 lb hammer and it took some force to remove the pins, but they will come out. Take care that you strike at an angle that won't damage the shutter.

2771

Now you need to trim off the excess from your reflector using the Dremel and cutoff wheel. The pictures below show where I have started to cut the top of the housing, and the bottom picture is after all three cuts are complete (driver's side reflector). The Dremel goes through the plastic like butter.

27732772

Next, sand off the raised lip on bottom of the front of the reflector (bottom left in the picture)

2775

Sand a channel along the side of the reflector where you just sanded the ridge off. When you go to reassemble the projector, there will be a bolt and several washers here.
2781

Now, drill holes as Fgin shows in his thread to allow the pins to align. This will take some trial and error to get the pin holes and the bolt holes to match up.

Once you are happy with the fit at the top, drill a hole opposite the side your sanded the channel to attach the lens to the reflector with the small torx screw that you originally removed when taking the projector off the housing. Clean the lens, and reassemble the reflector, lens, and projector housing using the two longer torx screws at the top, and the remaining torx at the bottom with 4 washers to prevent the housing from cracking.

2778

Again, look at Fgin's post for ideas on how to secure the bulb. It is fairly easy to bend the clip that came with the E46 to make it work, but you will likely need a screw to secure the top. Put it all back together and enjoy. I still need to align mine a little better, but overall I am very pleased with the ease of conversion and the light output. The first one took a few hours simply because I was a nervous RANDO. The second one took 1.5 hours from car to work bench and back on the car again.

27802779

[cakM3]

edlvrt, that's okay that you added to my DIY thread. :thumbsup

Its good to keep everything consolidated :) Results look good as well :thumbsup

[ZHPRegistry.net]

Well Charlie, if you don't mind I will hop on this ZKW->E90 retrofit train as well.

Here are some photos with notes that hopefully will help DIYers out.

1st off, there are two ways to remove the headlight. One way involves removing the screws that are trapped behind the bumper underneath the lights. The second way is shows on this photo.

http://www.zhpregistry.net/images/ToastyBowl/headlight-removal.jpg

Here's what my modified bowl looks like. I used the two holes on the sides of the bowl as means for securing the sprint tempered wire which will hold the bulb in place. It came out very good and I do not see any bulb movement going over bumps.

http://www.zhpregistry.net/images/ToastyBowl/e90-bowl-with-bulb.jpg

http://www.zhpregistry.net/images/ToastyBowl/bulb-holder.jpg

I was able to do the whole thing from the back side of the assembly without the need to remove the front lens etc.

IMPORTANT: The photo below shows an important steps in the process. Be sure to use the small screw to secure the bowl to the black lens holder and not use the bottom outer large hole. The black lens holder is secured using one 3 screws because the forth leg actually hovers. This is because the same piece is used on both lights but the angles are different for left vs right.

http://www.zhpregistry.net/images/ToastyBowl/small-screw-reference.jpg

Another little details. As the picture states, make sure that when the connector is twisted onto the bulb, there are no parts that "push away" the bulb from the housing by putting pressure onto the connector. If you take the time you can make those plastic pins long enough that they provide nice support for the connector and eliminate potential of it traveling down during bumps.

http://www.zhpregistry.net/images/ToastyBowl/connector-with-new-bowl.jpg

The outcome is pretty good. The photo below is actually less impressive than how it looks in person. The cutoff is much sharper than what came out of the photo.

http://www.zhpregistry.net/images/ToastyBowl/lit-driveway.jpg

http://www.zhpregistry.net/images/ToastyBowl/toasty-bowl.jpg

[cakM3]

This is good stuff :thumbsup

As long as everyone has something to contribute to my thread I don't mind....I just want to give back to a community that have been very supportive since I joined :)

[derbo]

this is fantastic! now to find myself sets of projectors..

[cakM3]

Today I got SNA77s used ZKW headlight assemblies so I can eventually replace my broken passenger's side. I have broken clips on my passenger's headlight assembly and due to my OCD regarding my bimmers, I just cannot allow this to remain in my ZHP like this... so another project when the weather gets warmer...:)

[ZHPRegistry.net]

Today I got SNA77s used ZKW headlight assemblies so I can eventually replace my broken passenger's side. I have broken clips on my passenger's headlight assembly and due to my OCD regarding my bimmers, I just cannot allow this to remain in my ZHP like this... so another project when the weather gets warmer...:)

I can relate to your OCD. During my conversion I lost the torx/hex screw that is on the back of the headlights under the gray connector and I wasn't calm for a few days until I got a chance to get the 5MM bolt to replace it.

[cakM3]

It never stops for me...:) Every time I come here and check out other people's projects I find something else I want to do with my ZHP...:biggrin

[bullfrogs_M3]

I wonder if this is what is wrong with my headlights too. One of them is bright and has good distance on it and the other is just sort of meh....

[cakM3]

I wonder if this is what is wrong with my headlights too. One of them is bright and has good distance on it and the other is just sort of meh....

Go to this link for some clarification: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?3598-The-ZKW-Burnt-Bowls-Thread/page13 (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?3598-The-ZKW-Burnt-Bowls-Thread/page13)

look at post #144

[BiTurbo]

First things first : Thanks alot CakM3!!

Took me about 5 hours from start (headlight still on car) to finish!

I must say Im very please with the results. I will post pics of the cutoff as soon as my lights are properly aimed!

As for the projector bowl, here are some good exemples or poor material quality :http://imageshack.us/a/img163/8040/photocgo.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img802/9283/photo3si.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img52/1670/photo2gno.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img694/3084/photo1dqj.jpg

Total cost of the project : 147$

[danewilson77]

Good pics for the NTSB.

[cakM3]

First things first : Thanks alot CakM3!!

Took me about 5 hours from start (headlight still on car) to finish!

Glad to be of assistance :thumbsup

[BiTurbo]

Good pics for the NTSB.

Exactly what I thought!

[danewilson77]

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/Library2/images_zpsb9fba546.jpeg


I am in progress of doing some much needed file maintenance and unfortunately all the links to my pics have been broken... please bear with me while I work on my DIY (will take some time due to college studies and work). My apologies for those seeking my diy but if you have any questions please contact me and I'll be happy to help out in any way I can. :thumbsup




This DIY is picture intensive!

Part I

History:
I have an ‘03 330i ZHP with ZKW headlight assemblies. The ZKW projector bowls on both the driver's and passenger's side were burned out as you can see in the picture below....


http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/Drivers-PassBurntBowls.jpg

I checked my local BMW dealership to find out how much each headlight assembly would cost and found out they would run me about $1200 each. At this point I realized that this would be a recurring problem so I began my research to find a more permanent fix to this problem. As I began my research, I found out that the projector bowls used in the ZKW headlights were plastic. PLASTIC?????? No wonder why these projector bowls burn out over time! Anyway, I found several DIYs through different forums but nothing that was easy to follow and complete for the inexperienced to follow without extensive researching. So I decided to post my experience for others. Hopefully, this DIY will help others to perform their retrofit.



This is just my guide on how I performed this retrofit.


***** DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK *****

*** If you don't know what you are doing chances are you will screw it up so I would recommend that you find someone who is familiar with this type of work. Doing this DIY does not, in any way, hold me accountable. ***


***** Thanks to Botond Pal "BP" for helping with all the pics! *****



Credit also goes to "Ozymandias" over at Bimmerfest from his DIY for which I would not have attempted my DIY, thank you

Ozy's diy was used as a base reference for mine and can be found here: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=449574Page%201%20of%2029 (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=449574Page%201%20of%2029)

Also thanks to SNA77 for his many DIYs. They have been very helpful to me during my research and development of this DIY :thumbsup


Tools I used are:
- Flat blade screwdriver
- Phillips screwdriver
- T-15 driver
- T-25 driver
- 8mm ¼” socket
- ¼” socket extender
- ¼” screw driver
- 10mm ¼” socket
- Hex Key set
- Electrical tape
- Needle nose pliers
- 3M double-sided tape
- Dremel and dremel kit
- Soldering Iron w/ solder
- JB Weld
- Very small jewlers screwdriver flat blade
- A Sharpie Marker (Black)

Additional items to have prior to starting this DIY...

- OEM ///M3 projector bowl assemblies
- OEM ///M3 projector shrouds

(I cannot emphasize enough that you need to have the original ///M3 projector bowls or this DIY will not work 100%)

For those with cold weather package:
- Nozzle clips: BMW PN: 61 67 0 004 457
- Washer Nozzle: BMW PN: 61 67 8 362 823

- ZKW to OEM M3 Bi-Xenon solenoid controller circuit from Wolstentech.com website link: http://www.wolstentech.com/products/bixenon/bixenon.php (http://www.wolstentech.com/products/bixenon/bixenon.php)

This is the OEM ///M3 Bi-Xenon Projector assembly I purchased from eBay for $50 :)
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/51-disconnectBoshlensfromM3projector4.jpg

I got the other ///M3 projector assembly for $75 shipped, same part. Notice the brand of the solenoid....hint....hint....


Okay... Let's get started :)

The first step is to remove your headlights. For those lucky enough to have the cold weather package this will take a little bit longer to remove because the headlight washer nozzle will get in the way. You need to exercise a lot of patience to disconnect this washer nozzle before fully removing the headlight assembly or you will break the nozzle. Believe me, I know…:^)

The replacement washer nozzle part number is: 61 67 8 362 823.

Cost for this item is around $65 depending on where you get it so keep that in mind when taking out your headlight assembly. It usually takes somewhere around 30 minutes to an hour to take out the headlight assemblies. Basically, what you need to do is:

- Remove the turn signals

- Remove the washer jets (for those who have the cold weather package)

- Remove the lower bottom painted headlight trim

- Remove the headlight seal gasket (the black trim attached to the headlight assembly)

- Remove the 4 retaining screws (8mm size socket will remove them)

- The bottom two are the hardest to remove - take your time, have spare screws in case you lose them while taking them out…

For a full description on how to remove headlights, go to this link: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?p=9217044#post9217044 (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?p=9217044#post9217044)

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/01-ZKWHeadlights.jpg

Start by removing the securing screws to the headlights (8 mm screws). There are two on top and two on the bottom (the bottom ones are hardest to remove, especially when they are corroded or have headlight nozzles installed).

This is how I set up the 8mm socket with extension and screwhandle...now you know why I used electrical tape. This way when you are trying to get to the lower two screws underneath the headlight assemblies, you will not lose the socket.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/04-8mmscrew.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/02-UnscrewHeadlights.jpg

An 8mm ¼” socket is used to remove the securing screws to the headlight assemblies.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/03-UnscrewHeadlights.jpg

In the above picture, the right bottom headlight screw is located to the right of the headlight washer nozzle. It is a very tight fit, which is why I showed the setup I used to take them out…

Once the securing screws have been taken out, the next phase is to disconnect all electrical connections to the headlight assembly as well as your Angel Eyes (if installed).

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/05-DisconnectAEs.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/06-UnplugHeadlights.jpg

A picture of the headlight assembly with wires disconnected.
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/07-DisconnectedHeadlight.jpg

One thing to note regarding the bottom securing screws. In my case, I found them completely corroded and extremely hard to remove. These were most likely the original screws from when the car was brand new. I almost stripped the heads trying to get these out. These screws will be replaced with new parts.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/09-CorrodedHeadlightretainingscrew.jpg

A close-up view of the headlight washer nozzle for the lucky ones with cold weather package!

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/10-Headlightwashernozzle.jpg

Removing the headlight assembly (with headlight washer nozzles), it was such a PITA to remove without breaking the nozzle connection (my first time doing it). I ended up braking my passenger’s side while taking it out, fortunately, I had a spare laying around!

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/11-RemovingHeadlightfromcar.jpg

I was using my iPhone to take a picture of the headlight washer nozzle connection (see below picture). It’s a very tight fit, which is why you need to exercise a lot of patience or risk breaking the nozzle connection. If you break the nozzle connection then you will need a new nozzle.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/IMG_2039.jpg

Just to the left of the headlight nozzle is the connection you need to disconnect prior to pulling out the headlight assembly (circled in red). Those of you who do not have this consider yourself lucky. :biggrin

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/12-Washernozzlehose.jpg

The washer nozzle hose disconnected. Below is a closeup picture of the washer nozzle and the fragile neck that gets broken if too much pressure is applied while trying to disconnect the hose clamp and attached washer hose.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/13-Washernozzleconnection-1.jpg

The part of the nozzle that tends to break off if you are not careful is the right part where you plug the hose in. The lip will literally break off the neck and then you will end up replacing the whole nozzle assembly after shelling out another $64.

Here is the part number in case you need another: 61 67 8 362 823.

I would recommend having one on hand just in case you break one. The one on the passenger's side is the one you will most likely break if you have never removed your headlight before. There is less slack concerning the hoses on that side and it’s a very tight fit to disconnect the attached hose.

Now that the headlight washer is disconnected from the headlight assembly, we can now pull out the headlight assembly to begin our work...broken trim insert has been replaced...
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/IMG_1837.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/IMG_1836.jpg



Removing the Washer Nozzle (skip this part of the DIY if this does not apply to you):

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/15-HeadlightNozzleAssembly.jpg

The headlight nozzle has two clips on either side that needs to be popped out. I used a very thin flat blade to put the clips in a position to allow them to slide out. It took some time but eventually I was able to get them out. Do this when you have your headlights out so when putting them back in it will be easier to reassemble.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/16-removingheadlightnozzleassy.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/18-nozzleassyretainingclips-1.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/19-nozzleretainingclipsonheadlight-1.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/IMG_1833.jpg

First view of my driver's side burned out projector bowl. The crack on the upper tab is a cob-web…there’s no crack there….just sayin’ :biggrin
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/20-BurnedDriversZKWProjectorBowl.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/21-BurnedDriverssideProjectorBowl2.jpg

Looking through the opening you can see how much of the projector bowl is burned out.


Taking apart the headlight assemblies - this is the same for both headlight assemblies.

- Unclip the three top clips, the side clips, and the lower three clips. (top 3 clips shown)
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/22-Disassemblingheadlightassy1-1.jpg

- Once all clips are detached, you can carefully pull off the headlight lens as pictured below….

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/IMG_1828.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/24-Disassemblingheadlightassy3.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/IMG_1827.jpg

Now comes the scary part....replacing the projector assembly....

- Take off the trim piece but be easy when taking this part off or you will break it.
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/25-Disassemblingheadlightassy4-1.jpg

- If you have angel eyes installed, you will now take this off.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/IMG_1826.jpg

Angel Eyes removed - extending the headlight housing using the hex wrench (pictured below) This part makes removal of the projector housing easy.

- Unscrew the headlight housing as shown below using a hex bit - easiest to use the tool with a longer bit sort of like a screwdriver but in the proper sized hex bit (similar to the pic below).

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/ScreenShot2011-11-11at94621PM.png
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/28-Disassemblingheadlightassy6.jpg


Fully extend the headlight housing as far as it will go - both top screws fully open.

The black auto-level retaining clip pictured below is the part you need to disconnect next using a long flat blade screwdriver. This is a PITA to do and you need to take your time and be careful not to break anything. The auto-leveling mechanism inside will pop out when the clip is spread out far enough…not hard to do, but just take your time and apply just enough pressure to spread the clip to allow the auto-leveling mechanism to pop out (see pic below – auto-leveling mechanism connected to the lower center clip on the ZKW housing).

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/30-Disassemblingheadlightassy8-1.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/ScreenShot2011-11-11at101346PM.png

The auto-leveling clip on the ZKW housing assembly that you need to use a flat blade screwdriver I was talking about pictured below by my index finger.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/34-headlighthousingautolevelclip.jpg


In the picture below:

The next part you need to do is to disconnect the ZKW housing assembly from the headlight assembly. Pry the two retaining clips (one by each fingers). Once you have this pryed apart the housing assembly will simply slip out. Don't need to pry too much. This is the center top clip.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/33-headlighthousingclip-1.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/35-headlightassyclip-1.jpg

On the ZKW headlight assembly, there are three points to disconnect the headlight housing from the ZKW assembly. Top center clip (shown in previous picture by my finger) mates with top center point in picture below, the auto-leveling rod (by my thumb in the pic below) attaches to the bottom part of the headlight housing, and the top right connection point is where the housing finally attaches to. When disconnecting the housing, take your time and do not force anything.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/32-Disassembledheadlightassy-1.jpg

Taking out the Burned out ZKW projector assemblies:

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/ScreenShot2011-11-11at101329PM.png

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/ScreenShot2011-11-11at102527PM.png

- Unscrew the 4 torx screws to take out the old ZKW projectors from the projector housing.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/41-ZKWLenshousing-plastic.jpg

The ZKW Xenon shrouds clip onto the projectors from the hole circled in red. All you have to do is use a long screwdriver to pop the clips off the projector assembly and the shrouds will come out allowing you to take off the projector assembly from the projector housing assembly.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/42-ZKWlenshousing-plastic2-1.jpg

When transferring the ZKW lens to the OEM M3 projector assembly, you will also need to use the OEM M3 projector shroud. The ZKW projector shrouds will not fit on the OEM M3 projector assembly, the retaining clips are short and thick.


Transferring the ZKW lens into the Bosh ///M3 Projector assembly

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/48-disconnectBoshlensfromM3projector.jpg

- remove screws to separate projector bowl from projector lens

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/50-disconnectBoshlensfromM3projector3.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/49-disconnectBoshlensfromM3projector2.jpg

- bend retaining clips to allow removal of old lens

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/52-disconnectBoshlensfromM3projector5-1.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/53-disconnectBoshlensfromM3projector6.jpg


Unlike the plastic ZKW lens holders which use a very brittle clip which will break off when you pry it enough to move the lens, the M3 lens holders, being metal, uses metal tabs that can be bent to allow removal of the retaining ring and lens. One of many tabs pointed by my finger (see above pics). This is easily bent with a screwdriver, in my case a torx-head.

Here is a video I made showing how easy it is to swap out the Bosh lens for the ZKW - bear with me since this is the first time I have ever made a video along with this diy...:)



http://vimeo.com/31990135



Trimming and fitting the OEM M3 projector assemblies

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/45-ZKWhousingassymountingpoints.jpg

As you can see by the pic below, the OEM M3 projector assembly do not line up with the ZKW projector assembly mounting points. We will have to do some trimming and drilling to get the M3 projector assemblies to mount correctly.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/ScreenShot2011-11-11at101415PM.png

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/IMG_1710.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/IMG_1711.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/IMG_1709.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/46-sizingM3projectoronZKWhousing.jpg

- Line up the M3 projector assembly and mark the new mounting points using a Black Sharpie. Looking through where the M3 projector housing screw holes are place a dot using the sharpie so you have all 4 holes marked on the housing assembly.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/47-sizingM3projectoronZKWhousing2.jpg

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/TrimmingZKWHousingassy6.jpg

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/SharpieMarked.jpg

In order to get to this point I had to do some trimming of the headlight mounting bracket which I will outline below:


Trimming the headlight mounting bracket

- First line up the ///M3 projector assembly onto the headlight mounting bracket to see what you have to trim off and mark those places using the black sharpie.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/ScreenShot2011-11-11at101415PM.png

- next get that Dremel and use a cutting disk (be sure to have plenty on hand as these will snap easily)


You have one shot at this so measure and recheck before you begin cutting and trimming

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/Trimming13.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/Trimming12.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/Trimming11.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/Trimming10.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/Trimming9.jpg

Some more trimming at each mounting point - on the most part you should be getting a fairly good idea on what you should have to do...:)

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/Trimming8.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/Trimming7.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/Trimming5.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/Trimming4.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/Trimming.jpg

- Next change out the bits on the Dremel and use a drill bit (will post actual size later today)
- Start drilling your pilot holes for the original retaining screws you took out earlier when removing the original ZKW projectors. (have a steady hand when doing this)

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/MountingM3Projectors1.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/MountingM3Projectors2.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/MountingM3Projectors3.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/MountingM3Projectors4.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/MountingM3Projectors5.jpg

A few holes will come very close to the edge, which is why I chose to use JB Weld to help reinforce those areas from any potential cracking. Passenger's side was done on 29 August and so far with daily driving here in Rhode Island (the land of pot holes), I have not had any issues with my "retrofitted" headlights. Solid as a rock, so to speak :)

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/MountingM3Projectors10.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/MountingM3Projectors7.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/MountingM3Projectors6.jpg

The surface areas around each hole was roughened up a bit so that when I applied JB Weld at each screw hole, those roughed up areas will allow the JB Weld to grab.


Mounting the ///M3 projector housing

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/MountingM3Projectors13.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/MountingM3Projectors18.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/MountingM3Projectors19.jpg

///M3 projector assembly is now mounted onto the original ZKW headlight mounting bracket!

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/MountingM3Projectors15.jpg


Note the nice ZKW lens mounted onto the OEM M3 projector assembly! A few angles of how the M3 projector assembly looks when mounted to the ZKW housing assembly…

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/MountingM3Projectors16.jpg

You can see the screws protruding...not to worry! With the OEM ///M3 shrouds, you won't see them.
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/MountingM3Projectors14.jpg

A little dab of JB Weld...
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/JBWeld13-1.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/JBWeld11.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/JBWeld9.jpg

After about an 10 minutes or so, I snapped on the projector shrouds. Everything lined up perfectly!
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/Success2.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/Success3.jpg


MY FRIENDS - SUCCESS!!!

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp37/macdctr/Success4.jpg





Okay, this is it for the time being with more to be added. I was limited to only 100 pics in this post so I had to place another "Part II" post to complete the DIY....look for that as well everyone :thumbsup


Part II will be placed in Post #7

Thanks everyone for being patient...:thumbsup

Chuck, What's up with the pics?

[cakM3]

Dane, I moved some pics in Photo bucket and in the process misplaced a few. I will be reworking this thread with Botond's help as I have to rework both headlight assemblies again. I'm looking to make this DIY easier to follow w/o overloading with pics. I feel I got carried away when I initially put this thread out.

Sorry for the delay. College finals and now my work schedule is affecting my work here. I will have this DIY back on track, my apologies for the delay.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk 2

[danewilson77]

No worries Chuck.

Sent from the HTC DNA, Williamsburg, VA and USA

[chris]

About to tackle this one. Any chance you found the pictures? Or could just dump them somewhere?

[danewilson77]

I've got some pics in my thread Sir, which may help.

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?8891-BMW-330i-ZHP-My-ZKW-to-AL-headlight-swap-to-include-ZKW-lenses

[Tnhl1989]

I hAve a set of fx-r but not sure if I really want to do the retrofit.....

[Bert336]

i would like to see a simpler DIY as it seems BMW isn't concerned about our safety :(

[quikryptonite]

Just a reminder. I've got an old ZHP Bi-Xenon headlight for sale that isn't currently functioning. Would be a good option for someone wanting to try this. If anyone wants to make me an offer, I'll probably accept it with the cost of shipping on top.

Full Listing (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?8666-FS-ZKW-Bi-Xenon-Passenger-%28Right%29-Headlight-Assembly-%28Not-Currently-Working%29)

[bullfrogs_M3]

dang I wish that one you had was for the driver side

[Fried_Chicken]

I'm looking to do exactly this, I bought a pair of bixenon's but the projectors are burnt.... A bit mad but that's another story.
Any idea when the pics might be up again Chuck?
Also, does anyone have any idea where I can get the Bosch projectors?

Thanks!

[Tnhl1989]

I'm looking to do exactly this, I bought a pair of bixenon's but the projectors are burnt.... A bit mad but that's another story.
Any idea when the pics might be up again Chuck?
Also, does anyone have any idea where I can get the Bosch projectors?

Thanks!

I would contact Joop about retrofits. He is the light expert.

[cakM3]

Yeah... Contact the light guru – Joop.

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX HD using Tapatalk 2

[danewilson77]

Yeah... Contact the light guru – Joop.

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX HD using Tapatalk 2

Or.......Charlie :)

[midlandtech]

Also, does anyone have any idea where I can get the Bosch projectors?

I have the same question... I tried looking but have had no luck

[Tnhl1989]

I suggest just taking everything apart and just use rain-x to clean everything. That really made a good difference. Also claying and cleaning the lens would make a difference too.

[midlandtech]

is it possible to clean the bowl itself? it was my understanding that once the bowl is burnt there is nothing short of replacement that can improve the output

[danewilson77]

is it possible to clean the bowl itself? it was my understanding that once the bowl is burnt there is nothing short of replacement that can improve the output

Unable to clean. Al foil...perhaps.

[LivesNearCostco]

One of my Bi-xenons is ZKW and has a burnt bowl. The other is AL and the bowl is fine (metal). I put aluminum foil on my burnt bowl and it helps a little but not much. Maybe 15% more light output than without foil, but still 30% or 40% less light than passenger side. Foil got ets all crinkled putting it in so doesn't present a smooth reflective surface. Better would be some smooth mylar foil glued on with high-temp adhesive. I have thought about spraying on silver exhaust header or brake caliper paint, but don't know if it will be more reflective than the crinkled foil or not.

Cleaning the unburnt parts of the bowl and the inside of the lens might help a tiny bit.

[Fried_Chicken]

I'm actually thinking of getting silver nitrate and making my own new mirror. Basic chemistry experiment, but iirc it fades quickly. I'll have to look into this possibility.

[ELCID86]

pics from initial post are MIA.

[Simmsled]

I completed a retrofit with Buick Enclave HID bifunction projectors and am super happy with the results.
If anyone can get them, the factory shroud is reusable and the stock wiring (bulb & ballast) works for the retrofit.
Minimal dremeling is required, however.

[cakM3]

Hopefully if the weather cooperates, I will be updating this thread with pictures while rebuilding Patrick's ZKW headlight assemblies this weekend :thumbsup

Yeah, I know it's been a long time coming and I'm finally getting off my butt to do this. :facepalm

[GreatFrog]

Hopefully if the weather cooperates, I will be updating this thread with pictures while rebuilding Patrick's ZKW headlight assemblies this weekend :thumbsup

Yeah, I know it's been a long time coming and I'm finally getting off my butt to do this. :facepalm

Charlie, were you able to update the DIY with pictures? I just noticed my ZKW light output is too low even though it only has a little more than 40k miles on it. Debating between different options I have here. Would love to see your pictures to see how involved your procedure really is.

Much appreciated!

[cakM3]

Charlie, were you able to update the DIY with pictures? I just noticed my ZKW light output is too low even though it only has a little more than 40k miles on it. Debating between different options I have here. Would love to see your pictures to see how involved your procedure really is.

Much appreciated!

I plan to revisit this soon as I have a ground issue on my passenger's side headlight/fog assy to troubleshoot.


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[GreatFrog]

I plan to revisit this soon as I have a ground issue on my passenger's side headlight/fog assy to troubleshoot.


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