I finished up a partially stripped hex bolt.

[ryankokesh]

Any ideas on how to get this out? It was partially stripped when I went to take off the rotor, and then when I tried to move it, well, let's just say it's all the way stripped now. It's number 2 in the realoem diagram. I'm afraid I'll have to drill it...

http://realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/v/b/210.png

[kayger12]

Sears makes a special bit that will get it out.

Somebody help me out here- out to dinner with the wife and she's giving me the evil eye for being on the phone.

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[ryankokesh]

Lol, pay attention to your wifey- this isn't urgent. :D

I'll check out the sears bit though.

I think my po thought that tiny bolt held the entire wheel on or something. Damn is it tight!


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[kayger12]

http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff401/Kayger12/2011-10-22_20-44-06_443_edit0.jpg

It's all good. She's still smiling.

It's called the Craftsmen Screw Out, iirc.

Edit: Notice the young girl with the fun drink while the old man is downing the Merlot...


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[danewilson77]

Had the same happen to me. Had to drill out. Damage threads on hub getting it put. No bigger. Screw is not needed and will be replaced when I change out that hub.

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[zj96sc]

simple fix my friend.

usually called an "EZ out."

predrill to the dimension required for the ez-out you'll use, then thread it in and turn away.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TLIJU2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=zhpcom-20&linkCode=as2&camp=217145&creative=399373&creativeASIN=B001TLIJU2

[danewilson77]

Yeah...that's what we were all alluding to, but failed to say. It's going to be tough to drill that without damaging threads. Not saying it can't be done though.

It just depends on how the head was stripped and where the bit decides to go.

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[kayger12]

Yep- ultimately, the screw serves no purpose other than to hold the rotor on the hub on the assembly line, afaict.



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[ryankokesh]

Ugh, sounds fun. Good thing it's not a critical component!

Thanks everyone! Glad to know in not the only one who f'ed this little guy up.

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[kayger12]

I would soak it with some PB Blaster or WD40 and then use the screw out.

I think that will get it out without damaging the threads.

The screw out bites into what's left of the stripped recess. Should be better than drilling it out.

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[danewilson77]

I would soak it with some PB Blaster or WD40 and then use the screw out.

I think that will get it out without damaging the threads.

The screw out bites into what's left of the stripped recess. Should be better than drilling it out.

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Totally agree as long as head is left.

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[ryankokesh]

Still got head...


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[pleasecorrupt]

I'll be the first to say it, say what ?!?

[ryankokesh]

That's to say, there's head left on the bolt...


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[BCS_ZHP]

Ryan,
Here's something you can try if there's sufficient bolt material remaining and before going to the drilling with an EZ-out. First do the predscribed soaking of the bolt. Get a hardened Torx bit that's slightly bigger than the hex head, and pound it in there with a hammer so that it bites some of the surrounding bolt head material. Next pop it with an air rachet, it will either bite or strip it further. If it's the former, good for you and if it's the latter, then you go the EZ-out route. And if you don't have an air rachet, try an impact screw extractor driver which is made for motorcycles. That normally has a 3/8 male end which you would insert in the 3/8 female end of the torx bit and then you smack the end if the screw extractor driver with a hammer. I picked one of these extractor drivers up for $15 at a motorcycle shop. Good luck with it.
Bruce

[zj96sc]

this:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947641000P?i_cntr=1319385117835

never heard of them being motorcycle specific. they're great tools to have around either way.

[ryankokesh]

So I soaked it for a while, and picked up some of these drill out things:
http://tapatalk.com/mu/62e4f73f-202d-a123.jpg

Tried to pop it out tonight, and I guess its in there better than I imagined...
http://tapatalk.com/mu/62e4f73f-2072-678f.jpg

Doh! Think it might be time for dane's drilling method.



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[3ZHP]

Did anyone suggest smacking it with a hammer before you tried the easy out? may be to late now but I've done that before. I take a punch and give it a few dead blows with a hammer to loosen the rust. Remember to use never seize on the next one. Note: that bolt is hardened so use a good drill bit and maybe some lube. Stepping it with several different size drills my work also. Good luck.

[Scorpius]

too late to heat it with a torch to loosen it up? might do that, then put an easy out that fills the existing hole and slam it a few times with a hammer.

[ryankokesh]

Well, if I had a torch that probably would have been a good idea before I f'ed it up. None of the "easy-out" bits actually fit the hex hole, so I had to drill into it more. And I slammed the bit in (per the directions) with a hammer, so I would imagine that loosened the rust.

I know you mentioned stepping it with a good bit and lube, but I'm new to drilling into hardened metal so: are the specific bits for this? what would work well for lube?

thanks all!

[zj96sc]

Not to monday morning quarterback the situation, but that's to be expected from black and decker. There are higher quality bits out there, but that's water under the bridge at this point.

The only torch that's going to loosen it up is O/A....I'd avoid O/A in that area unless you really know what you're doing because of the proximity to your wheel bearing. Bearings and heat don't mix.

You need good bits intended for cutting steel and cutting fluid, not lubricant.

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/plumbing-plumbing-accessories-pipe-cement-primer-cleaner/kansas-bbq-jersey-apron-147774.html

or similar.

Use very low RPM, sharp bits, and high pressure. As mentioned, progressively step up in diameter, or start with a high quality step drill such as an irwin unibit. I've gone through a LOT of mild steel with mine and they still bite hard.

The last thing I'd say you can try before drilling it out is to get one of those impact drivers we discussed earlier, take a grinder with a good thin cutoff wheel, and cut a slot through the head of the screw and put a flat tip bit in the impact driver. You're going to cut the rotor doing this but I assume you're swapping the rotor anyway which is why you want the screw out.

[danewilson77]

The last thing I'd say you can try before drilling it out is to get one of those impact drivers we discussed earlier, take a grinder with a good thin cutoff wheel, and cut a slot through the head of the screw and put a flat tip bit in the impact driver. You're going to cut the rotor doing this but I assume you're swapping the rotor anyway which is why you want the screw out.

As an added option......a dremel tool with cutting blade may also work here. Just throwing that out there, as hand held grinder may not be a common tool to have.

[zj96sc]

Good call dane, it will also reduce the amount that he'll cut into the rotor because of the dremel cutoff wheel's smaller diameter.

[billschusteriv]

Sorry I'm late to the party. Agree with what's been said before. I've had issues with these on the e30.

How rounded out is the bolt?

I usually soak with several rounds of PB blaster then take a strong pin punch and whack solidly with a weighted hammer (20+ oz - as hard as I can several times). Then I will use a good hex key (not rounded out). If it doesn't seat or is loose, I will take the hammer and tap the hex key in place. Then using a box end wrench on the end of the hex key (for leverage), I will try to pop the bolt loose.

I also like the EZ out option.

Good luck.

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[zj96sc]

I was thinking this over and wanted to add, when you say "soaking" do you have access to the actual thread interface that is stuck? I guess it is covered by the dust shield from the back, right? Just spraying the head of the screw its unlikely that the fluid is wicking in to the stuck threads themselves.

Also make sure you're using penetrating oil, preferably PB blaster, and not WD 40. They'll all "work" but PB blaster is great stuff.

[echo46]

Yep, I had this identical problem on my prior 330. Bolt stripped. Then I pounded the hell out of it to see if it would break loose, no such luck. Pb blaster, pb blaster and some more pb blaster. Then I got my trusty dremel and dremeled a deep slit into the remaining bolt head. I punded some more then used a sizable screw driver, got some leverage and it finally turned. If that had failed, I was going to just drill the rest of the bolt head off, removed the rotor, then used a pair of vice grips to unscrew the remaining bolt body. You just have to keep at it and be patient. It will come off.

[ryankokesh]

It came off!!!!

I tried drilling it with a titanium bit, but apparently I suck at that and also I was having difficulty drilling through the easy out bit that was already stuck in there.

Next I tried using a chisel, and after about fifteen mins it started turning!

The remnants:
http://tapatalk.com/mu/62e4f73f-6a33-cbf3.jpg

Thanks everyone for all the great advice and anecdotes! Prolly would have given up and taken it in if it weren't for y'all!

Now it's time to go bed those new brakes...!

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[zj96sc]

nice! put a win the DIY column. way to say the course my friend. all problems have a solution.

[danewilson77]

Look at that lil sheet. Looks like a hemorrhoid

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[ryankokesh]

Can't say I thought of it like that... Interesting... lol


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[kayger12]

Good work.

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[ryankokesh]

Thanks!

Today's lesson: use your anti-seize! And pay attention to torque specs...sheesh.


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[echo46]

Congrats, this is a fairly common problem. Also, had the same problem with wifey's Land Rover Discovery.

[zj96sc]

just for those who don't know, use anti-seize sparingly, a little bit goes a long way...and never use it on lug nuts.

[ryankokesh]

...and never use it on lug nuts.

Good call :)


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[billschusteriv]

Nice work and tip. Appreciate the follow up and pictures, Ryan.

Enjoy those new brakes. :)