From Bavaria, with love (Maryland ZHP Story)

[Newjack]

I have been wanting to write this for a long time now, but I just haven’t had the time to really work on it. So here goes!


Right after Christmas of 2010, the idea came into my head that I would get a new car. I had been driving a 2001 Ford Escape which I had no problems with. It was great for moving stuff and blasted through snow and rough terrain. But it was an SUV, which meant it wasn’t very good at taking corners; and the gas mileage sucked.

So I looked into my budget and started looking around for cars that were in the 5K-9K range. At the time I had no idea what I wanted. An old Datsun 510 would have been a sweet car to fix up. I looked at a few Nissans and Mazda RX-7’s. Then I saw the E30 and I knew that I wanted a BMW. I looked all over for an E30 that was rust free and had fairly low miles, but that’s no easy feat.

After discussing my findings with my stepdad, he suggested that I should look at something newer. Something that would have nicer features and won’t have to worry about rust. So I thought about the E36 M3. But every car out there was roughly 3K overpriced from what KBB was saying. So he suggested to go newer. With my heart still set on an M3 I started looking at every E46 M3 that was around there area (And ones that weren’t). After two months of searching I finally came to the conclusion that I wouldn’t be able to afford an E46 M3. I was looking at roughly 18K-19K for anything decent with 100K miles on it. Not to mention the insurance and everything, it just wasn’t meant to be.

That’s when I decided I wanted a ZHP. I found one located in College Park Maryland, which ironically was right down the street from a friend of mine. I was hesitant when I first saw it. But right away I knew that this was the car I wanted. It has a few flaws, but so far it has been mechanically sound and a blast to drive. The first two owners were dealers. So it had regular maintenance performed by the dealer, no sketchy stuff. I have so many plans for this car. So many things I want to do, but need to wait until I have the funds.


The Car

2005 BMW 330i ZHP
6-Speed Manual Transmission
Jet Black with Natural Brown Leather Interior
Halogen Headlights
Alcantara Steering Wheel
Black Cube Trim
95,000 miles

The day I bought her

http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/701/bimmerback.jpg

http://img577.imageshack.us/img577/6769/bimmerinterior.jpg


Mods / Maintenance

-Black kidney grills
-Blue and white roundels
-Angel Eyes (Khoalty)
-Polished plastic headlamp covers
-Software Tuning - DRL's turned off - fog lights stay on even after high beam use - turn signal lights off in running light mode (Thanks VA330CI!)
-Engine cooling system refresh with ECS Tuning aluminum water pump pulley
-It does already have a K&N filter in the stock box which is nice


Wish List / Ideas (In no particular order)

-30% tints back on the car
-Slightly higher temperature bulbs for the headlamps and fogs. I’m thinking 4500K
-New weighted ZHP shift knob
-Buff and polish the paint. It really needs some TLC. I know detailers domain has some great kits.
-New wheels and tires. I really really like the wheels on Jon Estrella's (Au2Bahn) car.
-Clear corners, clear sidemarkers, LED rear brake lights.
-BMW performance intake
-BMW performance strut bar
-New front bumper, I think this one is beyond saving. It has some major gashes and scrapes underneath from the PO. Its probably the worst looking part on the car.
-Upgrade the suspension system. I have no idea what direction I want to go with this.
-Headers
-Exhaust
-The last thing I do to this car will be an ESS TS2 Supercharger. It will happen. Maybe not for a while but it will happen.

Blue carbon fiber
http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/8137/0719111439b.jpg

Before Sonax
http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/8169/0801111204.jpg

After Sonax
http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/5936/0801111204b.jpg

http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/7131/0801111331b.jpg

http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/851/0810112030.jpg

http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/3712/0903111611.jpg

Bimmerfest East
http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/1889/colortouch1317762991739.jpg

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/4121/backleft.jpg

http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/8766/backrightn.jpg

http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/9071/brickwally.jpg

http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/4048/colortouch1317958806279.jpg


If you made it this far thanks for reading! I will try to update this as I keep working on my car. My car isn't perfect, but it's getting there slowly but surely. I hope to someday have my car be as good as some of the other forum members here. You all have beautiful cars that really raise the bar.

Comments, suggestions and advice are all appreciated.

[Newjack]

So I finally got around to refreshing my engine cooling system a few weeks back. Whew! I don't have to worry that my car is going to suicide one day on my way to work. I couldn't have done it any later either. As it turns out, my thermostat was bad. It was stuck open, which meant that my car would take a long time to come up to optimal temperature.

Overall the process was very straightforward and simple. I used this guide here (http://www.bmw330ci.net/maintenance/completecoolant.php) which gave me all the information that I needed to complete the job. I ordered my engine cooling system refresh from getbmwparts.com Specifically this kit here (http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=MorePartInfo&PartID=774527&siteid=214672&catalogid=4462) Note I have a manual transmission so I did not purchase the kit with the extra trans thermostat.

I also bought an aluminum water pump pulley (http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Aluminum_Water_Pump_Pulley/ES1892054/) from ECS Tuning which I think was a solid investment. The one I took of my car seemed old and rusty.

My Notes

The guide says that you should use a tube to help flow the coolant from the engine block into the bucket. This wasn't practical to me at all. The bottom line is you're going to spill coolant everywhere. I just used a really large pan with a wide surface area to catch as much of it as I could. But even so it still comes out sideways and I got a decent amount on my passenger wheel. Just get some towels or shop rags for this part to clean up.

The radiator hoses weren't too bad. The lower hose was definitely harder to get off because it is awkward to grab so you can't get as much leverage as you want.

When removing the expansion tank, be careful. I did this job with the help and supervision of my stepdad (He's an engineer at NASA and knows a lot about cars). The guide says to use a rubber mallet to bang on the bottom of the expansion tank to help dislodge it. We couldn't find a rubber mallet right away so we used a hammer. Mistake. I hear my stepdad slowly banging at the expansion tank. I hear BANG BANG BANG BANG CRACK. "Dude I think I broke your car." The hammer bounced off the expansion tank and hit my power steering pulley which cracked off a piece of the lip.

When I put on my ECS Tuning water pump pulley the guide says to tighten the bolts to 10 N-m or 7ft-lbs of torque. I spun the pulley and noticed it was off a little bit. It wobbled from side to side. So I tightened it a little more than the guide said to in order to get the pulley to spin in a smooth easy circle.


All in all, this was a fairly easy DIY. Just follow the guide and take your time. I didn't have any problems (minus the power steering pulley which I replaced). Feel free to ask me any questions. I'd be more than happy to help.



http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/5861/0924111718.jpg

http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/3616/0924111719.jpg

http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/512/0924111719a.jpg

Doh!
http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/2149/0924111722.jpg

[static667]

Good story. Sounds like what happened when I got my first BMW. I was looking at Nissan 240s and my dad suggested an E36. And down the slippery slope I went.

P.S. The natural brown interior is beautiful. I love that combo.

[zj96sc]

http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/3712/0903111611.jpg

:drool:drool:drool:drool:drool

good god that's shekshy. leatherique them badboys!

I didn't think halogen bulbs came with kelvin ratings, do they?

[danewilson77]

Great car Newjack. Nice writeup.

[kayger12]

Great write up. Enjoyed that.

[johnrando]

Very cool, love that color combo. Jet Black FTW!

[bullfrogs_M3]

Sweet, that looks EXACTLY like my car!!! Did you take those pics in MY garage? haa

Great pics and great color combo of course!

[imola red zhp]

Great Story, great color combo.... keeper!!!!

[RVAzhp]

...you want black seats?....

[webster]

awesome car, nice write-up. looking forward to your progress!

[Newjack]

Thanks for the comments everyone!


...you want black seats?....

I really like the color combo I have right now.


Finally got around to writing about the engine cooling system.

[Newjack]

Dropped in a brand new Duralast 49-DL battery today. The old one lost a cell and I couldn't start the car (only had 9.6 volts). I felt a little guilty not putting in an OEM battery, but the duralast has better specs than the OEM battery, and fits snug for a fraction of the cost.

[Newjack]

A slight teaser of what I'm working on next. Big thanks to M0nk3y for helping me pick out the stuff I needed.

http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/1998/1130111336.jpg

[Newjack]

It's been a while since I have added anything to this. I installed Smoked LED tails about a week ago and I love them. Crazy bright, and the bring a clean look to my sedan. I also got in my clear corners and sidemarkers from khoalty yesterday and installed those along with new headlight lenses I got from xmas. Everything together makes the car look so much better. Goodbye amber!

http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/1043/snowyledrear.jpg

http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/9867/snowyledside.jpg

http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/9463/clearfront.jpg

[Newjack]

Just got this in the mail. I wonder what it could be? :shifty

http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/8143/0124121349.jpg

[johnrando]

Looks good. Really like the smoked on JB! May have to start to consider those.

[cakM3]

ZHP is lookin' good....keep it up :thumbsup

[derbo]

car looks great in the snow :)

[bullfrogs_M3]

A slight teaser of what I'm working on next. Big thanks to M0nk3y for helping me pick out the stuff I needed.

http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/1998/1130111336.jpg


Post up your thoughts on the 205 after you use it. Been wondering if I should get me some of that or not

[RVAzhp]

same buffer I have! good stuff.

[Newjack]

Post up your thoughts on the 205 after you use it. Been wondering if I should get me some of that or not

Will do! I haven't used anything from this kit yet. It's been so cold I haven't really been able to wash my car as often as I want.

[Newjack]

Installed my AFE cold air intake with Pro Dry S filter. Car doesn't feel much faster, there is a hint of something extra under the hood. I just love the sound though. The car always had a grumble to it, but now when you get it above 3K rpms you can hear the car roar.

http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/6594/0125121532a.jpg

[johnrando]

:thumbsup

[sum1orotha]

Hey Newjack,

How hard was the switch out with the LED tails? Did you use a guide or diy for taking out the old tails from anywhere? I just got some EE tails delivered myself and since you just did it was wondering how hard it might be.

MD ZHPs FTW!!! :thumbup

[Newjack]

It wasn't too difficult. I used a guide that khoalty provided. But to be honest, that guide was trash. It tells you to remove stuff you don't need to remove and is very ambiguous. Ill post some pictures or make a quick video for you if you want. Depending on how close you live, I could even swing by and give you a hand with the install.

V6 Revolution + TT

[Newjack]

Put on my no holes license plate bracket today from Gominigo. Looks really good and I will update with pictures. But it seems really close to the bumper. I don't think it will scrape the bumper or anything while its on there. But I'm curious on how I am supposed to get the dang thing off if I ever have to use that tow hook.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/45065965/Car/0411122113.jpg

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/45065965/Car/0411122114.jpg

[danewilson77]

Should be able to spin the whole thing off as a unit.

Sent from SIGFest-2012, USA on HTC via TTv2

[Newjack]

Should be able to spin the whole thing off as a unit.

Sent from SIGFest-2012, USA on HTC via TTv2

Part of the bracket scrapes the bumper if I try to spin it a full 360 degrees. I'm guessing I can just bend it to work if I ever have to do it in the future. Stainless steel can bend a little bit and still maintain its strength and durability right?

[danewilson77]

Part of the bracket scrapes the bumper if I try to spin it a full 360 degrees. I'm guessing I can just bend it to work if I ever have to do it in the future. Stainless steel can bend a little bit and still maintain its strength and durability right?

Yup. You'll be fine.

Sent from SIGFest-2012, USA on HTC via TTv2

[johnrando]

Part of the bracket scrapes the bumper if I try to spin it a full 360 degrees. I'm guessing I can just bend it to work if I ever have to do it in the future. Stainless steel can bend a little bit and still maintain its strength and durability right?

Yup, mine is that close. I can still get it off with just a slight bend... I bent it a little anyway just to get it a tad more away from the bumper.

[Newjack]

Good to know. Thanks guys.

[Newjack]

So since the last update, I have installed my Khoalty interior LED kit, LED license plate lights, as well as some 40% llumar CTX ceramic tints.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/45065965/Car/0415122151a.jpg

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/45065965/Car/0415122151b.jpg

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/45065965/Car/0507121453a.jpg

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/45065965/Car/0507121454.jpg

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/45065965/Car/0507121453.jpg

[Newjack]

Here is my current project. Starting on this as soon as I eat some lunch.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/45065965/Car/0509121133.jpg

[Newjack]

Progress....

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/45065965/Car/0509121547.jpg

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/45065965/Car/0509121547a.jpg

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/45065965/Car/0509121548a.jpg

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/45065965/Car/0509121548b.jpg

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/45065965/Car/0509121548.jpg


Is it acceptable to drive without the bumper? The splash guard that hangs right by the wheels has me a little worried. Other than that, my front tag is still on.

[Hornung418]

That's a lot of damage! You'll be fine with the bumper off.

[Newjack]

Sanded down

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/45065965/Car/0510121532.jpg

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/45065965/Car/0510121533.jpg


Ready to be wiped down and primed

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/45065965/Car/0510121601.jpg

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/45065965/Car/0510121601a.jpg



It is sitting in the garage right now drying. I will update later after a little sanding and hopefully a base coat tonight.

[Newjack]

Update: First paint coat applied.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/45065965/Car/0511121952.jpg


I'll be honest. It looked really good with just the primer on it. After hitting it with real paint, you can see the rougher areas of the bumper a lot easier. Flat colors hide scratches and imperfections VERY well. Gonna wait to sand tomorrow to make sure that the pain has had enough time to dry. Hopefully done by Sunday....

[JG330i]

Wow!!!

Great progress with the bumper!!! Keep it up!!!

[sum1orotha]

How's the bumper coming along?

[Newjack]

How's the bumper coming along?

The bumper is finished. I had it finished before SIGFest in May. Literally the day before the event I put the bumper back on Thursday night.

I think it turned out ok. It was a monster headache to say the least. Unless you have a black car I wouldn't recommend you try to do this. Right now it is raining outside so I can't take any good pictures of what it looks like, so I will link this picture from the SIGFest.


I know, I know, this picture doesn't really show the bumper all that well.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/69274_3151821315447_485804318_n.jpg

It looks a bit like a flat black. I could have used more paint on it and it probably would have come out a bit better. But I was in a time crunch to get this all finished before the SIGFest and was entirely sick of the project after a week of sanding this bad boy down. OEM paint is very high quality stuff, and it shows when you compare it to the best Advance Auto has to offer. The paint I used doesn't quite have the same reflective properties. But it is finally one solid color. You can't see the gnarly gashes and rock chips from 30 yards away anymore, and to be honest, unless you walk right up to the bumper and start to compare it to the rest of the cars paint, you probably won't notice it.

All in all, it was a learning experience. I think it looks better than it did before, and it will keep me from buying a new bumper for at least a little while longer.

[jayjay_dee]

Great job Rob!!!

[Newjack]

So a couple days ago I decided to try and give my car a full detail. I didn't get very far. It was my first time ever using a porter cable and trying to buff/polish a car.

So tonight my stepdad gave me a hand trying to save my hood. I really wish I had taken a picture of what my hood looked like before. It was dingy, grimey, covered in old, old water spots and lots of scratches. There really wasn't much of a clear reflection in the hood, and the only time I really liked to look at it was when I was washing the car, and it was covered in water. I'm sure some of you at the SIGfest noticed it, I know Charlie and BP did.

So we started with Meguiars 105 and a cyan colored Lake Country buffing pad. Did a couple passes right in the center of the hood (the worst spot) and immediately noticed a difference. Some of the water spots were starting to go away, and there was a reflection in the hood again. But these water spots and scratches were DEEP. I buffed the same area at least 10 times to finally get it to the way I wanted it. Using a lot of pressure and a high speed, I have it almost to my liking. Gonna go over it again tomorrow in better lighting.

Right now, the hood looks so much better than I ever thought it would look. It shines, it has a reflection again, and the water spots are gone.


Fun fact- So after 2 passes on the same spot, my stepdad says to crank up the porter cable to 6 (6800rpms) and go to town. Were gonna polish it after, and the water spots were really deep. So I went for it. Decent pressure at 6800rpms. So what do I do? I try to check out the progress I've made after about 30 seconds into the buffing. I lifted the porter cable from the car, intense wobbling occurs. 105 is sprayed all over me, my stepdad and my car. Buffing pad flies off at 90mph, ricochets off my windshield and into the back of the garage. themoreyouknow.png


Anyways, I will post pics when it is done. For now, enjoy this picture of my car before the buffing. Hiding from its blemishes.

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/45065965/Car/0624121624.jpg

[Johnmadd]

Can't wait for the after pics man.

[danewilson77]

Lol Rob...

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

[Whitexi]

So a couple days ago I decided to try and give my car a full detail. I didn't get very far. It was my first time ever using a porter cable and trying to buff/polish a car.

So tonight my stepdad gave me a hand trying to save my hood. I really wish I had taken a picture of what my hood looked like before. It was dingy, grimey, covered in old, old water spots and lots of scratches. There really wasn't much of a clear reflection in the hood, and the only time I really liked to look at it was when I was washing the car, and it was covered in water. I'm sure some of you at the SIGfest noticed it, I know Charlie and BP did.

So we started with Meguiars 105 and a cyan colored Lake Country buffing pad. Did a couple passes right in the center of the hood (the worst spot) and immediately noticed a difference. Some of the water spots were starting to go away, and there was a reflection in the hood again. But these water spots and scratches were DEEP. I buffed the same area at least 10 times to finally get it to the way I wanted it. Using a lot of pressure and a high speed, I have it almost to my liking. Gonna go over it again tomorrow in better lighting.

Right now, the hood looks so much better than I ever thought it would look. It shines, it has a reflection again, and the water spots are gone.


Fun fact- So after 2 passes on the same spot, my stepdad says to crank up the porter cable to 6 (6800rpms) and go to town. Were gonna polish it after, and the water spots were really deep. So I went for it. Decent pressure at 6800rpms. So what do I do? I try to check out the progress I've made after about 30 seconds into the buffing. I lifted the porter cable from the car, intense wobbling occurs. 105 is sprayed all over me, my stepdad and my car. Buffing pad flies off at 90mph, ricochets off my windshield and into the back of the garage. themoreyouknow.png


Anyways, I will post pics when it is done. For now, enjoy this picture of my car before the buffing. Hiding from its blemishes.

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/45065965/Car/0624121624.jpg

Glad it's able to be saved, I had the similar happen with my buffer. I was polishing the roof and was standing on the back door rocker. Just as I went to reach back up to continue I slipped and hit the button spraying 105 all over the back seat and rear door. Cleaning that was not fun.

[johnrando]

Too funny (since there was no damage). Reminds me of that James Bond movie with the guy who throws his hat to kill people, etc.

[Newjack]

So I finished buffing and polishing today. It really looks nice now that it is all clean. Well almost clean I should say. No one told me how tough it is to remove compound dust! Stuff is all over the front end of my car, and since my incident, the roof and sides too. Got a large majority of it off, but I think I need to use a little polishing compound to get the rest off. Either way, I'm very pleased with the results.

Picture time? Picture time.


https://dl.dropbox.com/u/45065965/Car/0625122013.jpg

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/45065965/Car/0625122014.jpg

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/45065965/Car/0625122014a.jpg


https://dl.dropbox.com/u/45065965/Car/330sun.jpg

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/45065965/Car/330sun2.jpg

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/45065965/Car/330sun4.jpg

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/45065965/Car/330sun5.jpg

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/45065965/Car/330sun6.jpg

[Whitexi]

Wow that looks great, I remember your hood before and that's night and day. As for the compound, yes it took me a wile to get it all cleaned up as well. Next time I will tape it off better.

[Hornung418]

Damn...I'm definitely going to need your assistance with my shitty paint.

Great recovery!

[johnrando]

Looks perfect.

[Johnmadd]

Looks great. Good work Rob.

[Newjack]

Thanks for the kind words everyone!

[Newjack]

Alright guys. I tried writing this last night, but I accidently closed the window about halfway through. :facepalm

So here goes.


I'm pretty happy with how my hood turned out after buffing and polishing it. But since I didn't seal or wax the hood, a good portion of those watermarks and non shiny stuff are back. Except now, I have buffing compound in every rock chip on the front of my hood, and the driver/passenger front fenders. Now I'm sure that I can work some magic and get the compound out. Maybe some more Dr. Colorchip on the big spots. But the fenders have so many teeny tiny rock chips that it would be pointless to colorchip it.

So I started to look at new hoods. I'd really like to replace my OE hood with a nice power bulge hood. But I can't find anything for a facelifted sedan. The only thing out there is the Vorsteiner hood with the vents, which I'm not really fond of. I saw a thread on e46fanatics about a bulge piece of metal that you can weld onto your OE hood and then get a respray.

I don't know. If I got a new hood, I'd respray the front fenders too, and then be happy with the way my front end looked. That is until I repaint my bumper with OEM paint. But that's another story. Besides I'm pleased with how the bumper came out. It doesn't bring attention to itself, and is low on the car anyway.

So I'm sure with the new hood, and the front fenders resprayed, I'd be looking at about $1000.


However, the tires that I have now are on their last legs. They have been on for over 2 years now and I'm pretty sure there isn't a whole lot of tread left in the rears. (Fronts look fine, minus the nail that is still lodged into my passenger front tire).

So I thought, when I get new tires, I'll get new wheels to go with them. Some nice VMR V710's. Debated between 19" and 18" for a really long time, and decided that 18"s are way more practical for the area that I live in. Maryland roads are downright horrible. Potholes everywhere, uneven surfaces. I might as well be driving on the moon. So new tires along with new wheels? About $1800. I plan on sticking with the Conti Extreme DWS for their excellent balance in treadlife, performance, and wet handling.


If anything, I will just get new tires soon, and keep my beat up style135's. They work well, and they look good from medium to long range. There are a lot of things I want done to this car, I'm just trying to make sure I work on things that make the most sense. My suspension is probably getting tired with 100K on the odometer. I could swap that out with an H&R Cup kit.

But the biggest thing that bothers me is my front end. I want to see the day where I take a look at the front of my car up close, and say "My god that looks good".


My thoughts probably don't flow together all that well, but that's okay. I really just wanted to write them out and see what sticks. If anyone has any opinions let me know.

/streamofconciousness

[johnrando]

It seems to me the most sense/economical is tires first, then try Dr. Colorchip on front. Eventually paint front (but clearly a hood decision has to come in - not a fan of a bolt-on powerdome but it's your choice), then new suspension, then new wheels. I'll keep my eyes open for hoods, but I think as you said, not a lot of great choices.

[Newjack]

So I found some screw laying in my driveway sometime last summer. I held onto it, because it goes to something german with wheels. But I could never figure out what it went to. So today as I was getting new tires put on my car, I asked to guy if I could watch. They let me come in and take a look at the car while it was on the lift. I look underneath the car and low an behold I find the spot where the screw was supposed to go. It was a screw to the bracket that prevents the exhaust from falling.

Front of the car is to the left rear to the right. Missing screw on the bottom of the picture.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/45065965/Car/1129121219.jpg

[Newjack]

Also wanted to add, I had a noise coming from the rear of my car. Sounded like a wheel bearing so I ended up buying rear wheel bearings to take care of the noise. When I went to the shop and they had my wheels off, the guy said that my heat shield was rubbing against my rotor a little. Noise gone, problem solved.

[brettbimmer]

Also wanted to add, I had a noise coming from the rear of my car. Sounded like a wheel bearing so I ended up buying rear wheel bearings to take care of the noise. When I went to the shop and they had my wheels off, the guy said that my heat shield was rubbing against my rotor a little. Noise gone, problem solved.

Yep, I've had the same problem on the ZHP. Heat/Dust shields get bent & rub occasionally. It was probably just some really fast cornering. :biggrin

[Hornung418]

Nice updates. Glad you found the rubbing.

Sent from my GSIII, bitches.

[danewilson77]

That's a bolt.

Glad it's fixed.

[jayjay_dee]

Those LED tail lights are very nice, and thanks again for the quick reply on my PMs...

[Vas]

Do keep in mind that it is roughly $150-$200 to respray a body panel on a car. That is without any body work meaning fixing dents and etc.

[johnrando]

Living large Sean!

[Newjack]

That's a bolt.

Glad it's fixed.

My b

Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk 2

[Newjack]

Do keep in mind that it is roughly $150-$200 to respray a body panel on a car. That is without any body work meaning fixing dents and etc.

Yeah I've gotten a quote to have the hood fenders and bumper re sprayed foe 1k

Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk 2

[danewilson77]

My b

Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk 2

All's good lil bro.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

[Mr Paul]

Unless there is a nut I am not seeing that is technically a screw. A screw gets threaded into a tapped hole and a bolt is fastened by an external nut. The more you know :)

[Newjack]

Took the ZHP to highway speeds. I feel like I'm driving a brand new car. Grip is there when I need it. Rides as smooth as a baby's bottom. 80mph feels like 25mph.

[Hornung418]

Is that caster in your new alignment normal? -5.1 deg seems pretty high.

I need to get my shit together and get new Control Arms and a new steering rack...can't stand the vibrations when I negotiate a highway turn :facepalm

[danewilson77]

Is that caster in your new alignment normal? -5.1 deg seems pretty high.

I need to get my shit together and get new Control Arms and a new steering rack...can't stand the vibrations when I negotiate a highway turn :facepalm

Mine is that high? Spec is +5.1 - +5.9.

All data in the alignment thread (Suspension Subforum) is in this ball park. I saw some in the 4's though.

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/IMG_20101201_172252.jpg

This was from my most recent alignment.

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/IMAG1310.jpg

[Newjack]

A quick update on the Michelin Pilot Sports, I went through a roundabout on the way home from work today. I've taken this roundabout many times, its not small, but it isn't big either. Connects about 6 streets. Didn't do anything crazy, but I enter the roundabout in 2nd, and just keep holding down the pedal more and more to see where my grip is. By the time I was leaving the roundabout I was at 40mph and I had plenty of grip left to go faster. DSC was on, and the light never flickered or came on.

I love these tires so far.

[johnrando]

Sweet!

[Newjack]

I'm having a lot of problems with the car as of late. I'm getting sludge/peanut butter looking crap in my crankcase. I noticed it on my oil cap and a little on my dipstick when checking the oil. I'm leaking oil somewhere and burning it on my exhaust. My oil sensor is going nuts and now my led tails are failing. The turn signal (amber portion) of the tails are only half lit if that. Most of the leds are out.

Makes me wonder if it's worth it to keep the car.

Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk 2

[Hornung418]

Just a little bit of maintenance is needed. No worries bruddah, we can tackle it one weekend :)

Sounds like vanos and VCG as well as OFHG and a fresh oil sensor.

From a GS3, this was sent.

[danewilson77]

I'm getting sludge/peanut butter looking crap in my crankcase............


Just a little bit of maintenance is needed. No worries bruddah, we can tackle it one weekend :)

Sounds like vanos and VCG as well as OFHG and a fresh oil sensor.

From a GS3, this was sent.

What's the plan for this?

[kayger12]

I don't like the fact that you're seeing it on the dipstick. That sounds more like coolant is getting into the oil...

[nike001]

(bad) CCV's are peanut butter factories FYI.

Do that sheet asap.

Also, the moisture on your oil filler cap is a product of short drives. Drive that sheet more & for longer durations!

[Newjack]

So a little more back story. I've only got like 4k miles on this oil change. Oil was fine when I changed it, and I swapped in a brand new oem oil level sensor at the same time as the oil change.

I got a new job around the last week of November, and it isn't very far away. With the temps dropping to around 32 during the day, I'm not sure my car was fully warmed up when I got to work. The coolant needle was right in the center, but you know it still might not be optimal temp yet.

Once I started burning oil (you can smell it strong when I step on the loud pedal and then sit at a light) I noticed my oil sensor coming on. So when I went to check my oil I started noticing the sludge/peanut butter crap.

I've got my Vanos Seals and anti rattle kit, valve cover Gasket and the 15 grommets to go with it.

If I do replace my CCV (that's giving me a headache just thinking about it) will the sludge eventually go away? Or will it just not get any worse?

When I showed my dad the sludge stuff, he said it looked like coolant was leaking into my oil too. Maybe my head gasket is toast. Who knows...

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[danewilson77]

I would perform some AutoRx sessions (2x), then fill up with oil, run for 1k miles, then send off a sample to Blackstone labs.

http://www.auto-rx.com/

Auto-Rx® safely removes sludge, dirt, carbon build-up, and other contaminants from engines, transmissions, ring packs, motorcycles, power steering, differentials, and turbo engines. Auto-Rx® safely removes sludge while you drive. Auto-Rx® safely rejuvenates seals, reducing or eliminating oil leaks. (US Patent #6,544,349)

I don't think there's any reason to pull a sample now.

Then....from now on...drive it at least 15-20 minutes....prior to shutdown.

Any performance issues? Codes?

[nike001]

My tech (BMW Master Tech) and I were talking on Saturday and he told me how he thinks that CCV's are the things that cause the extensive oil burning on the 3.0 liters. His theory is that the CCV clogs up and doesn't send enough oil back into the engine, which puts extra stress on the oil rings on the piston and eventually deteriorates them so when the engine is finally getting oil, much of it is slipping past the rings and then being burned.

[Newjack]

Alright so CCV replacement is critical. I need to find out where I can get oem parts cheapest.

I don't have any performance issues besides low torque at low rpms (disa and Vanos will fix that I hope) also not throwing any engine codes.

Dane where did you find this autorx stuff? I'll check out the link when I get home.

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[brettbimmer]

Sorry to hear Rob. Let me know if you guys need a hand with anything. I have done the tail light repair (assuming that the ground issue is your problem).

X2 on what Dalton said regarding the moisture inside the engine/short cycles/not warmed up 100% (good excuse to take the long way home!). Curiously, was the oil changed just prior to your starting your new job? I ask because 4,000 miles on short runs could mean that there is a fair amount of atmospheric moisture in your oil. I wonder if in fact that is all you are seeing on the dipstick, not engine coolant. Is your coolant level maintaining proper level? Perhaps a few shorter oil change intervals (with filter) would clean it out. I have had water in boat diesel & gas engines before (from high water in the boat) that we've run short oil changes on, and this cleaned them out without any issue.

EDIT: Temp. gauge on the E46 (like just about all models after the E30) is dampened for minor fluctuations. Apparently owners were bringing in their cars due to under/over dead-center needle placement when in fact there wasn't any issue, just a slight change due to environmental temperature change. That is probably why it is reading warm when she isn't yet up to normal warm operating temperature.

[danewilson77]

Alright so CCV replacement is critical. I need to find out where I can get oem parts cheapest.

I don't have any performance issues besides low torque at low rpms (disa and Vanos will fix that I hope) also not throwing any engine codes.

Dane where did you find this autorx stuff? I'll check out the link when I get home.

Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk 2

The link is in my post?

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA.

[Newjack]

The link is in my post?

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA.

Sorry, what I meant to ask was how did you find out about it? If you are recommending it I'm guessing someone else has given it a good review or you have tried it yourself. I haven't heard of this stuff before and was just curious about what kind of feedback there is about the product.

The oil was changed May 18th of last year. It has been a while, so it's not like I'm pissing money away by changing it out.

Thanks for the input so far everyone.

[danewilson77]

Used it myself on Tom's engine.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA.

[Newjack]

Little update; CCV has been done for at least a month now. All of the BMW mayo is gone. Replaced everything with cold weather versions including the dipstick guide tube which is double walled. Should be set for a while now.

Today I ended up doing my VANOS at Dane's. Overall a pretty straightforward job, but it took a while because beer and other things. Nothing difficult just time consuming. After driving it home, my car doesn't feel like it has any more power than it did before. But the torque I get across my powerband is a lot smoother and I definitely have all of my low end torque again. 6th gear in this car is fucking motivating now. Overall, everything seems a lot smoother and the car seems to run better. Very pleased. Thanks Dane!

https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/923175_4621393013821_42939045_n.jpg

https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/935532_4621393173825_551266452_n.jpg

[nike001]

Congrats! I noticed the low end torque bump too!

[johnrando]

:thumbsup

[Crestwood1001]

How was the ccv replacement? I'm not ashamed to say I'm kind of intimidated to try it myself, most extensive job iv done on this car is the vcg.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

[Newjack]

How was the ccv replacement? I'm not ashamed to say I'm kind of intimidated to try it myself, most extensive job iv done on this car is the vcg.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

For starters, don't do it when its cold out. I did mine when it was about 32F and all of the rubber boots and parts were not pliable at all making everything much more difficult. I'd say about half way through I wanted to sell the car. Nothing went according to the guides and it was a lot more difficult than I expected. Getting the old oil separator out was a huge pain. Putting in the new parts with the foam insulation was even harder because of the extra bulk on them. Lots of touch and feel on this job because you can't see what your hands are grabbing. Can it be done? Yes. Is it difficult? Yes, but if you are patient you will be fine.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

[Newjack]

Installed H&R Touring Cup Kit with ZHP control arms and cab's (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?9818-Complete-suspension-refresh-(opinions-needed)&p=272121#post272121)

[Newjack]

Just got back from the shop to have my alignment done. Apparently it can't be properly aligned without camber plates. I've got an extra -.6 degrees of camber all around that can't be adjusted because of the "slight" drop my touring cup kit gives me. I thought camber plates gave you more camber not reduce camber?

Either way the guy that did the alignment test drove my car when he was done (I didn't know he was going to do this) and said that something is moving. So something is loose and needs to be adjusted.

Steering wheel is still cocked to the right while driving straight and my DSC and ABS lights are on and I can't turn them off.


What now?


Before Touring Cup Kit

https://photos-4.dropbox.com/t/0/AADa5GutgOSocTvgKVROPjLKafcFyNTzrp7idFyP4eNfZQ/12/45065965/jpeg/256x256/3/_/1/2/1129121435.jpg/GV2SDqbng71C_hxzah-O6nZAQXj7uApv7agO37GKLcM?size=1280x960


After

https://photos-1.dropbox.com/t/0/AACxuqQh1Qx0JElPIC-HmJWLmD7KiHU4TBNsYLALlME_jg/12/45065965/jpeg/32x32/3/_/1/2/2013-06-10%2013.58.55.jpg/K5npjPPmFvQl9Mp66PQM5Noc-p0IH_xkWbLxd60H2zk?size=1280x960

[Vas]

Camber plates can be used to give more camber or put the camber back to factory specs.

Do you have the printout from the alignment? Would be nice to see all the specs.

[Newjack]

Camber plates can be used to give more camber or put the camber back to factory specs.

Do you have the printout from the alignment? Would be nice to see all the specs.

Both images are posted?

[Vas]

Both images are posted?

Not working for me so that is what I asked.

[danewilson77]

Whenever a car is lowered, the "factory specs" regarding camber will not be met. This is not a new idea. This is known and normal. Camber in any case (lowered or not) cannot be appreciably changed due to FSM pin that goes through strut tower. Even after punching the pin out is adjustment negligible.

So....camber? I wouldn't freakout about that as long as they have it adjusted where you want it and it's even side to side.

The steering wheel cocked when driving straight and lights on is jacked. They should be locking your steering wheel in place, then adjust the toe in/out with the tie-rods. After they adjust toe to "in spec" with the steering wheel straight there should be no issue.

The fact that something is loose should also be a concern.

If they can't figure it out, take it someplace else.

[Avetiso]

+1 on taking it somewhere else. And so long as it's even on both sides.

[johnrando]

I did not need any camber plates with my Touring Kit... it doesn't go THAT low, and my vert s/b lower than your car, so I'm wondering a little....

[Newjack]

Do you guys have pictures of your last alignment sheet? I'm curious to see what your alignment looks like.

John what was your camber like on your car without camber plates? Was it close to what my car has right now?

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[danewilson77]

There's a ton in the alignment thread.

[johnrando]

No camber plates.

8988

[Newjack]

There's a ton in the alignment thread.

I tried searching for it earlier but couldn't find it. Search feature on this forum is less than stellar.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

[danewilson77]

I think it's pretty good. I searched "alignment" and "titles only". 8th one down was the alignment data thread.

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/Alignment.png (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/nicee46/media/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/Alignment.png.html)

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/Alignment1.png (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/nicee46/media/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/Alignment1.png.html)

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?321-BMW-330-ZHP-alignment-and-data-Pics&highlight=alignment

[Hornung418]

Funny enough that Rob was the last one to post in that thread :P

Great work at this one buddy. Car is going to feel so awesome.

From a GS3, this was sent.

[Newjack]

I think it's pretty good. I searched "alignment" and "titles only". 8th one down was the alignment data thread.

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/Alignment.png (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/nicee46/media/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/Alignment.png.html)

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/Alignment1.png (http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/nicee46/media/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/Alignment1.png.html)

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?321-BMW-330-ZHP-alignment-and-data-Pics&highlight=alignment

Was using my phone and forgot to check that box for titles only. :facepalm

I'm just assuming the shop screwed me since my toe is so wack on my rear passenger wheel. They should have easily been able to correct that.

I guess I'll take it to a shop my buddy recommended. I can't jack up the car by myself anymore because the jack I have isnt low enough. I need someone to actually lift the car via grabbing the wheel well to get the jack under. Gotta buy a jack.


This car is turning into a money pit...

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

[Hornung418]

It's only a money pit if you can't enjoy it every day. Soon, my son. All will be right and the commute will return the smile to your face :)

[Newjack]

Have an appointment for 9:30am tomorrow with Eurowerkz in Rockville to get everything sorted out. Good friend of mine recommended these guys so hopefully they will take good care of my car.

Will write a review for them. For now though, stay away from Discount Auto and Tire in Kensington.

[Newjack]

Had another alignment done today. Car rides smoother and my steering wheel is now straight when I'm driving in a straight line. But the camber on the passenger side is off a lot from the drivers side. I'm not exactly sure why the camber isn't the same on both sides. The guy who did the alignment said that it is just the way the car responds to the suspension being lower.

So now I'm gonna have to get camber plates and install them for the front, and I guess get adjustable control arms for the rear.

If someone told me right now for $1000 my car would be back to normal, I would pay it no questions asked. This has become such a headache...

Oh, and I have to replace my tie rods. The shop I took it to the other day stripped mine. Instead of heating them up, they just tried to man mode them and destroyed them. I need end links too.


Suggestions on camber plates and rear control arms would be appreciated. Will have to look online when I get home from work tonight.

New alignment...

https://photos-2.dropbox.com/t/0/AACs2qc_boHWdRtqxoa2JQZTNH4s0Tfl4oVQtwXvRoP2Vw/12/45065965/jpeg/32x32/3/_/1/2/IMG_20130612_125125.jpg/aMuL0wbBIYGuij8MXoHD0gIpMgQFtyqXKHi0FjWjvdA?size=1 280x960

[johnrando]

Wow, smh. Hang in there.

[Johnmadd]

Did you get a spec sheet for this alignment?

[danewilson77]

Ugh.

HTC DNA ON TT4 BETA, WILLIAMSBURG, VA

[bcleaver]

I can't see the alignment specs your posting (pics no worky) but I'd be surprised if the camber was so far off it really needed camber plates on the front and so off in the rear you need adjustable control arms. Seems pretty aggressive for a standard lowering. Again, note that I can't see the exact specs, but to drop that kind of money to get back to factory specs isn't something I would jump into. Note that adding a little camber up front will make your turn in much better and handling a little crisper at the expense of some small amount of inside tire wear, and a great performance upgrade in general, but I wouldn't just do it for the sake of getting a perfectly even alignment.

For your jack problem, try driving the car up onto a 2x4 and see if that gives you enough clearance to fit it under the car. If not, add a piece of plywood or two under and see if that gives you enough room.

Hope you get it all figured out soon and definite bummer about the tie rods.

[Avetiso]

I don't think he is worried about the camber, specifically, rather it is the cross camber he is worried about. That is, one side is much different than the other.

[bcleaver]

Yea, I picked up on that, but there is an amount of cross camber that I wouldn't be worried about either. I'm not sure what his is, but before I dropped several hunderd on camber plates I'd want to make sure it 'mattered' (which is not completely objective).

[zhp43867]

I thoroughly enjoyed reading your write up. Beautiful car and illustration. It's funny how these car's become our side kicks over time, isn't it?

[Newjack]

Yea, I picked up on that, but there is an amount of cross camber that I wouldn't be worried about either. I'm not sure what his is, but before I dropped several hunderd on camber plates I'd want to make sure it 'mattered' (which is not completely objective).

I'll reupload pics when I get home. Dunno why drop box and google+ links won't work.

But its a solid 1.2 degrees of negative camber difference on the front passenger wheel than the driver wheel.

1.1 degree negative camber difference for the rear passenger wheel.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

[Newjack]

This is the last alignment I had done.


9038

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/45065965/Car/IMG_20130612_125125.jpg

[Newjack]

I thoroughly enjoyed reading your write up. Beautiful car and illustration. It's funny how these car's become our side kicks over time, isn't it?

Thanks. It's a real love hate relationship with this car. As of right now I don't know if I will own the damn thing in a year.



I know, I know there are so many tears in this thread, but yelling at the wall while I'm taking a shower only relieves so much stress.

[johnrando]

Did you use adjustable end links? I don't know how much of a difference that would make but I was told to use them, and I don't recall if you did.

[Newjack]

Did you use adjustable end links? I don't know how much of a difference that would make but I was told to use them, and I don't recall if you did.

I did not use adjustable end links. This may contribute to the camber being off by a hundredth of a degree, but it wouldn't explain why the camber is so uneven on one side of the car.

Really wracking my brain on this one. I think I need to sleep on it...

Appreciate everyone's help.

[danewilson77]

How do your strut towers look?

[Newjack]

How do your strut towers look?

They looked fine during the install. I even added reinforcement plates in the front and rear.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

[danewilson77]

They looked fine during the install. I even added reinforcement plates in the front and rear.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

Kk

HTC DNA ON TT4 BETA, WILLIAMSBURG, VA

[Newjack]

I haven't updated this thread in a long time so here goes.


I finished up my suspension refresh last year right around July. Car was ready for Bimmerfest East. New zhp control arms, Z4M bushings, RTAB's Vorshlag limiters, H&R touring cup kit, and reinforcement plates for the strut towers. I had some trouble getting the camber right, so I ended up buying some camber plates from Bavarian autosport and SPC racing rear adjustable control arms to get my camber back to stock while lowering the car. It rides fantastic and I was very happy with the car once everything was installed.

No other mods were done until October of last year.

I was in the gym at the time and a guy came in and told me he had hit my car.... I walked outside and sure enough he had backed into the drivers side fender of my car. Fender was bent in and scratched pretty good. Bumper was jacked up and scratched, corner light was shattered and later found out my headlight had a cracked tab. His insurance paid for the fender and bumper being resprayed and repaired along with replacing the headlight with another OEM halogen.

This is where I stepped in.

I bought an M-tech II bumper from Khoalty a good 6 months before the accident. The bumper that was currently on the car was OE and heavily rashed. I attempted to strip and repaint it myself and it did look slightly better than before, but the paint wasn't right and it was matte looking and overall crappy. So when I took my car to Eurowerks, I told Sarvin to go ahead and use paint the brand new bumper I had. Since insurance was going to paint the bumper and the drivers side fender, I told Sarvin to go ahead and paint the passenger side fender and the hood. (Obviously I'm paying for the stuff not covered by insurance).


So Eurowerks hooked me up. Brand new freshly painted M-Tech II bumper. Brand new paint on both fenders with the drivers side fender being repaired. My hood was FINALLY repainted and all of the pesky dings and dents pulled out of it. The rock chips in the hood were so bad that in order to repaint it and make it smooth and brand new, they were going to have to chemically strip the paint from the hood and essentially start from scratch. Oh and I almost forgot that I added piano gloss kidney grills from Khoalty on the car once it was done. I had matte black kidneys from khoalty on the car before, but one of them had cracked and it was looking old.

So a big shout out to Eurowerks who hooked up my car. Their paint guy does phenomenal work and there wasn't any orange peel or anything sketchy going on with my paint. Incredibly pleased with the overall quality of their work, the price and how polite Sarvin and his crew were. If anyone in MD needs a mechanic or a body shop, seriously, take your car to Eurowerks.

The last couple things I ended up doing were removing the Gominigo no holes license plate bracket from the car and replacing it with the US Mill works bracket. Gominigo bracket was total crap and you risked grinding the paint of your bumper every time you had to remove it. It would also bend, like way more than it should. US mill works bracket it was nicer, much better design and wont ever scratch my brand new bumper. Gold star to those guys.

I replaced the middle trim piece on my front bumper with another straight trim piece instead of the license plate version for the clean look. Last but not least I bought some yellow Lamin-X from Amazon and covered my brand new fog lights. Mainly as protection but oh man does it look good. Incredibly happy with the car right now and I just ended up doing a thorough hand wash and wax yesterday and wanted to take a few pictures. Unfortunately MD is going to get another god damn snow storm tomorrow but at least my car will look nice, for now.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-oUGvon1yiUA/UyXW7lwxLHI/AAAAAAAAB30/Jd9iieUhYYI/w1145-h859-no/IMG_20140316_125203.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-wqaCqDNx5ac/UyXW-U4N6zI/AAAAAAAAB4A/bB79-ng8jVs/w1145-h859-no/IMG_20140316_125219.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Atpoysf5KTY/UyXXAG4DBbI/AAAAAAAAB4M/IT8XScqAi64/w1145-h859-no/IMG_20140316_125247.jpg

[PirateZHP]

Looks great! I gotta get the same thing done!

[Vas]

Wow that looks great. Gives me an idea to what my car will look like since it's also currently getting the front end repainted plus the rear bumper.

Quick question though on that plate holder. Are you able to move it more towards the left or is it in a fixed position?

[Hornung418]

Schmexy!!!

Sent from my GS3.

[Newjack]

Thanks everyone! I'm finally getting the car to look exactly how I imagined it when I first bought the car.


Wow that looks great. Gives me an idea to what my car will look like since it's also currently getting the front end repainted plus the rear bumper.

Quick question though on that plate holder. Are you able to move it more towards the left or is it in a fixed position?


It has two rows of holes so you can move the plate pretty far to the left or the right. It also swivels on a half ball join so you can align it almost any direction to fit the contour of your bumper.

Watch the video HERE (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RvUGUtl0mII)for a better description of how it works.

[ELCID86]

Nice! Recently had my front clip painted too. Loving it.

[Vas]

Do you have the regular version of the plate bracket or the lighter version ?

[Newjack]

Do you have the regular version of the plate bracket or the lighter version ?

Regular. Didn't feel like spending the extra money for something that weighs .3lbs less. It works just the same.

[johnrando]

Wow, glad things worked out. Good stuff.

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2

[Vas]

Regular. Didn't feel like spending the extra money for something that weighs .3lbs less. It works just the same.

Thanks. Guess I need to order one before I get a ticket for no front plate.

[Newjack]

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-lnBxQ0ih3wU/U0YQ3FFhLNI/AAAAAAAAB58/qNYnXAryn3U/w1145-h859-no/IMG_20140409_233233.jpg

[gmurphy]

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-lnBxQ0ih3wU/U0YQ3FFhLNI/AAAAAAAAB58/qNYnXAryn3U/w1145-h859-no/IMG_20140409_233233.jpg

!


Sent from a Secret Location (Lincoln,NE exit 395 on I-80)

[Hornung418]

Dat brake kit...

Sent from my GS3.

[Avetiso]

:o

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

[Vas]

Open the box right meow

[Hornung418]

All I know is that Ray is having a sale on StopTech SS brake lines... $118 shipped

Sent from my GS3.

[Newjack]

Here we go!

Thanks Ray!

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Fi1VM1rRheA/U0YSXRFKLfI/AAAAAAAAB6M/8EFxuOlpow8/w644-h859-no/IMG_20140409_233859.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-L_vP5p5G918/U0bGGC7Q7_I/AAAAAAAAB7E/STnEWlJqYJA/w1145-h859-no/IMG_20140410_122540.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MtSo4CrYHw8/U0bF0a_Tq-I/AAAAAAAAB64/wxn9XxcXOrU/w1145-h859-no/IMG_20140410_122438.jpg


Centric slotted rotors. OEM brake pads with sensors and stainless steel brake lines.

[QC_ZHP]

Schweeeet. When's the install?

[Newjack]

Schweeeet. When's the install?

Most likely this weekend.

I forgot to mention I got caliper paint too. Going with black paint for a clean look.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

[Newjack]

Ok brakes are done. I'll post back when I'm less tired. I have to go to Eurowerks to have my lines flushed. Brakes feel super sketchy right now.

Also didn't paint my calipers. The amount of work and time needed to do that was not worth it to me.

I'm also done doing any major DIY's on any car I ever own again. The suspension overhaul pushed me up to the edge, this brake job pushed me off.

For the record, the brakes and everything I got from Ray was spot on. I got exactly what I ordered, and the quality is outstanding. I will definitely buy brakes from Ray again. I just won't be the one installing them lol.

[Hornung418]

Pussy...

Sent from my GS3.

[Avetiso]

Come on, Rob. I know when you get a quote for more werk you'll be right back it. :)

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

[Pip]

Your car looks fresh. Love the look.

[danewilson77]

Ok brakes are done. I'll post back when I'm less tired. I have to go to Eurowerks to have my lines flushed. Brakes feel super sketchy right now.

Also didn't paint my calipers. The amount of work and time needed to do that was not worth it to me.

I'm also done doing any major DIY's on any car I ever own again. The suspension overhaul pushed me up to the edge, this brake job pushed me off.

For the record, the brakes and everything I got from Ray was spot on. I got exactly what I ordered, and the quality is outstanding. I will definitely buy brakes from Ray again. I just won't be the one installing them lol.

I thought we did your VANOS in Bruces garage? Or was it at my house? Brakes are much easier.

[Newjack]

I thought we did your VANOS in Bruces garage? Or was it at my house? Brakes are much easier.

Brakes are easy they said. Bolts come right off they said.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Eihy0CsqbCU/U0sDAUQhsxI/AAAAAAAAB-c/PncCk-NYM1A/w644-h859-no/IMG_20140413_151500.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3u8F_E8jQYA/U0sCmfQ4a9I/AAAAAAAAB-Q/aK2iyilrTso/w1145-h859-no/IMG_20140413_151506.jpg


Yeah some of these bolts were just a fucking hair past finger tight.

That's a craftsman socket, not some cheap autozone brand.

[danewilson77]

:rofl

Samsung Galaxy S5...

[Hornung418]

Was that caused by your caliper carrier bolts?

Sent from my GS3.

[Avetiso]

:rofl

Samsung Galaxy S5...

Speaking of craftsman... lol

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[Newjack]

Was that caused by your caliper carrier bolts?

Sent from my GS3.

Affirmative.

[brettbimmer]

Hope you have/had the 2' breaker bar to remove the caliper carrier bolts! (It fits if you turn the front wheels for clearer access). Never broken a Craftsman socket here though. Tell us that you used some good anti-seize before reinstalling the bolts to make it easier next time?! Then it will be easy in the future.

Sent from my pineapple under the sea.

[Newjack]

Hope you have/had the 2' breaker bar to remove the caliper carrier bolts! (It fits if you turn the front wheels for clearer access). Never broken a Craftsman socket here though. Tell us that you used some good anti-seize before reinstalling the bolts to make it easier next time?! Then it will be easy in the future.

Sent from my pineapple under the sea.

Yeah I used a really long breaker bar to finally pop them off. Had to got to advance and buy a 16mm impact socket first. I did not use anti seize on the bolts. I probably should have, but I don't ever plan on replacing the brakes on this car myself again. Whoever did the brakes before had over torqued the shit out of the bolts with an impact wrench and the rust build up over 4 years didn't help. The hubs were layered with anti seize though, so I've got that going for me, which is nice.


Sitting in Eurowerks right now getting my brake lines flushed. ATE type 200 fluid. Hoping to have a firm pedal when I leave.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

[Newjack]

Slight update. At the mafia meet I changed my fuel filter and fuel pump (with the help of many other people) fuel pump is about as straight forward as it gets. Fuel filter though, fuck that.

Make sure you get new hoses for the fuel filter. Mine were so old and gummy that I had to nearly destroy them to get them off. The BMW "one time use" clamps can be reused. You just need some channel locks to grip the bolt to retighten it. My biggest mistake was not making sure the clamps were on tight enough. Got everything bolted up and ready, and started the cat without the splash guard on to check for any leaks. Right away the car starts and I hear something weird. Fuel was spraying out of a line that wasn't clamped down hard enough. Now I had them clamped down pretty good, but I was afraid to overdo it. So I tightened up the clamp that was on the leaking hose. Started the car again and everything seemed fine.

I drove home that day about 2 hours and had no problems. This was last Sunday. Fast forward to yesterday. I was driving in D.C. and I start smelling fuel when km stopped. So I'm thinking god damn this car in front of me smells bad let me pass him. Still smell it. Oh those lawn guys are cutting the grass next to me its probably them. Still smell it. Fuck.

Car was leaking again pretty hard. By the time I made it home I lost about a 1/4 tank in 15 minutes. Took off the splash guard and checked when I got home. Now a different line was leaking. So I went ahead and tightened everything with the force of a thousand gods. Apparently thats the only way to make sure you don't leak. So I drove it yesterday and today and haven't smelled or noticed ant leaking. My motor was still really hot when I tightened down the clamps again, so when I started the car to check for leaks I was able to safely rev the shit out of it and let it run for a minute to see if it would start leaking again.

Everything seems ok at the moment, still keeping an eye on things.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

[johnrando]

Good advice on the hoses. Glad that worked out.

[Avetiso]

Sorry to hear about your troubles. My hoses were worn, but I was able to get it buttoned up easily.

"Arnold smoking a cigar in the Red Square; your argument is invalid." -Galaxy S5

[brettbimmer]

Noooo!!!! Rob, sorry that you are still having trouble with this after maintenance afternoon on Sunday. Was it leaking on the hose secured with the new clamps also? It may be worth finding some better quality clamps (that have the solid metal band like the old clamps not the cheaper ones with the tightening holes in the band, and with a better screw head so you can loosen & tighten), so that the ones from Pep Boys don't end up chewing through the hose in the next year or so. Also, the new clamps should be able to be tightened down with a small socket to really get a good amount of torque on them as needed. Hose diameter is of concern, but even the 5/16" line is pretty close with the 8MM, so that shouldn't be the issue. If it helps, this thread is interesting:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=924889

Realoem page with the fuel hoses:
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=EV53&mospid=47725&btnr=16_0371&hg=16&fg=15

Hose clamps from a marine supply company, though I am sure there are other sources:
http://www.westmarine.com/aba-of-america--heavy-duty-316-stainless-steel-hose-clamps--P011_333_002_002

Let me know if I can be of further help since I helped you with this on Sunday.

[Hornung418]

Running okay now? No leaks?

Sent from my GS3.

[Newjack]

Running okay now? No leaks?

Sent from my GS3.

It hasn't exploded yet, so I've got that going for me, which is nice.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

[Hornung418]

:like

Sent from my GS3.

[brettbimmer]

:like

Sent from my GS3.

X2. Don't make me have to bust out the duct tape and chewing gum!

Sent from my pineapple under the sea.

[330i Lover]

All the pictures from this thread are broke, did you cancel your photobucket account or something?

[Vas]

Thread needs to be updated Rob

[Newjack]

Thread needs to be updated Rob

Yeah I know, I'll get around to it soon

[holyc0w]

How are the wipers?

[Newjack]

How are the wipers?Mediocre. They sit really high which bothered me at first, but not so much anymore.

What does bother me is the curvature of the blade isn't strong enough on the edges to make complete contact. So the last 5% of the blade leaves a small streak as it wipes.

Overall they are miles better than the old ones based on how old and beat up they were. But I'm not totally satisfied. I'll keep them on for now since they were expensive and they do the job fine. It will give me a chance to test the "ice doesn't gather on them in winter" claim.

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[Newjack]

For those of you wondering where Rob's Blizzaks went.

Threw them on Saturday afternoon. Very pleased with how they look. Hoping to get a little snow this year so I can test them out!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171113/cf40825743de61c43bf8929aa80d2986.jpg

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

[Sockethead]

Ha! They look great! very nice on black... I'll have to show Kristen tonight...

[Vas]

Nice winter set-up

[droman81]

Nice set up. I was wondering how those wheels would look on a sedan. Thumbs up


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[Newjack]

Expansion tank blew last night. Coolant under the car. A quick look shows coolant on the lower hose that connects near the bottom side of the expansion tank. Looks like a common area for hairline cracks and leaks.

Ubering to work now....

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

[Sockethead]

Is that your original?

[Newjack]

Is that your original?

Nah I replaced the entire cooling system at 95k when I bought the car. All hoses, thermostat water pump expansion tank and sensor. Radiator was the only thing not replaced. Thought I would get more than 45k out of the expansion tank but I guess I was wrong. Car is about 142xxx now.

[Sockethead]

hmm I replaced mine at about 60k if I remeber right and I now have similar mileage... looks like I might have to replace as PM.
I haven't replaced any hoses or radiator. I just replaced the temp sensor O-ring for the first time a few weeks ago.

[san]

Oh that’s not a lot of miles. Is the ET a bmw part?


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[Johnmadd]

Nah I replaced the entire cooling system at 95k when I bought the car. All hoses, thermostat water pump expansion tank and sensor. Radiator was the only thing not replaced. Thought I would get more than 45k out of the expansion tank but I guess I was wrong. Car is about 142xxx now.

My po replaced everything before I purchased at 99,500, I am still good at 204xxx. :dunno

Edit: I did replace the thermostat

[Sockethead]

yea, I forgot to mention I'm on my 3rd water pump and I replaced the thermostat... all were failures not PM

[holyc0w]

Nah I replaced the entire cooling system at 95k when I bought the car. All hoses, thermostat water pump expansion tank and sensor. Radiator was the only thing not replaced. Thought I would get more than 45k out of the expansion tank but I guess I was wrong. Car is about 142xxx now.

That's pretty scary. How many years? Brand?

[Newjack]

That's pretty scary. How many years? Brand?Replaced in 2011 with OEM parts. The only non OEM stuff I've ever put on my car were either cosmetic or the windshield washer pump which for $15 on Amazon lasted me 6 years.

I don't have the gas lower bar coolant cap though.

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[Newjack]

yea, I forgot to mention I'm on my 3rd water pump and I replaced the thermostat... all were failures not PMHow did you know your water pumps were failing? It always bothers me how high the tolerance is in our coolant gauge when it's at 12 o'clock. You won't know the car is overheating until it's basically too late

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[ELCID86]

Sorry Rob. I’ve been wondering if I should do mine...

[Sockethead]

How did you know your water pumps were failing? It always bothers me how high the tolerance is in our coolant gauge when it's at 12 o'clock. You won't know the car is overheating until it's basically too late

Actually, I think the first one was PM... I second one was a bearing failure. It was making a racket and wobbling.

There are two failure points on any water pump:
Bearing failure with the symptoms I had: wobbling, noisy and if it's bad enough, leakage.
Seal failure: starts out weeping through the vent hole and gets progressively worse from there if not addressed.

there is a thread on here somewhere that explains how to re calibrate the temp gauge for more accuracy. but the problem is you still have to be looking at the gauge and honestly, how many of us consistently look at the gauges?
The ultimate would be an audible alarm warning of overheating and oil pressure failure like boats have

[Newjack]

Pulled out expansion tank. Coolant on the bottom half of the tank, all over the hose that connects to the expansion tank from underneath, and the hose that runs up to the motor that comes out of the bottom side of the tank.

Inspected expansion tank and it looks fine. No cracks or anything that I can see. No idea what's going on here.

Car was sitting for 48 hours and all the fluid didn't leak out. It was maybe 80% full when I refilled tonight and drove to my parents garage. Nothing leaked out during the drive over. Popped the coolant cap off and the buoy came bouncing right up.

Lower radiator hose, thermostat and the passenger side of everything is completely clean. It's the expansion tank area that has fluid on it. (Some fluid dripped onto my sway bar end link)

Went to BMW to get parts, Google says they close at 8. They close at 7....

I'm stumped boys. Besides replacing the expansion tank for shits and giggles idk what else to

Quick note, I had a power steering leak a while back and had the hose replaced. Some of what you see is dirt and debris from that.
do.31541https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171209/08507c834f13a07095daabc1ff9a172b.jpg

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[Vas]

Sorry Rob. I’ve been wondering if I should do mine...Come on over

Also I bet it's the orings in the bottom of the tank that went bad.


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[Newjack]

Come on over

Also I bet it's the orings in the bottom of the tank that went bad.


Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

I'm really hoping that is the case. At the bottom of the expansion tank they have those o rings inside the tubing.

The hose coming out of the side of the expansion tank, the one I have highlighted with an arrow in the below picture was also soaking wet. That hose didn't look so good but its not in the kit of things to replace when doing the cooling system.

31542

Does anyone have any experience replacing that hose? It looks like a huge bitch to replace...

Maybe part 5 in this diagram? Hard to tell if its the same one

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=EV53-USA-01-2005-E46-BMW-330i&diagId=17_0215

[Vas]

I had replaced that hose. It's not a bad diy to replace it.

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[Newjack]

I had replaced that hose. It's not a bad diy to replace it.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Did you replace just that soft hose or did you replace the hard composite hose that one attaches to as well? I'm somewhat worried about damaging the hard composite hose further up, but I really don't want to replace that one as I will have to remove the entire intake manifold to get to it.

Any tips you can give me for the lower hose? I've searched the internet and haven't found any DIY's or videos.

Fingers crossed that the dealer has that part in stock along with the expansion tank.

[Vas]

Did you replace just that soft hose or did you replace the hard composite hose that one attaches to as well? I'm somewhat worried about damaging the hard composite hose further up, but I really don't want to replace that one as I will have to remove the entire intake manifold to get to it.

Any tips you can give me for the lower hose? I've searched the internet and haven't found any DIY's or videos.

Fingers crossed that the dealer has that part in stock along with the expansion tank.Just replaced the soft hose from the tank to the hard plastic hose.

Removal is the same as the upper and lower radiator hoses. Remove the clip and wiggle the hose off.

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[Newjack]

Just replaced the soft hose from the tank to the hard plastic hose.

Removal is the same as the upper and lower radiator hoses. Remove the clip and wiggle the hose off.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Ok good to know. Thanks Vas

[Newjack]

Finished the install this afternoon. So happy to have that done, I wasn't sure how difficult it would be but I didn't even have to remove the lower intake boot to get to the hose, only the upper boot.

The old hose itself was completely toast. I don't know why DIY's dont recommend changing this out since its fairly easy. $207 at the stealer and I have a new expansion tank, coolant return hose and coolant. Drove home with no coolant light on, needle stayed at 12 o'clock. Will test tomorrow on the drive into work.

Old hose

https://i.imgur.com/zd1wsJq.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/HDFcvQe.jpg



Sidenote - This was the first time I've been able to drive my winter tires in winter weather. Ever since I installed them its been 50+ degrees and they have been real smushy and not great. First time below zero and I actually had way more grip in the wet snow than I did in warmer dry weather.

[Vas]

Awesome. Glad you got it fixed

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[John in VA]

First time below zero and I actually had way more grip in the wet snow than I did in warmer dry weather.
Below zero? What part of Maryland are you in?!

[Newjack]

Below zero? What part of Maryland are you in?!

Bethesda. It's 30F here right now

[ELCID86]

Glad you got it done Rob and hopefully that’s it for a while. Looked at my log and my ET has about 4 years and 50k miles on it.

Thanks for the invite Vas. May take you up on that (and help with your clutch?)

[danewilson77]

Below zero? What part of Maryland are you in?!Most likely meant below freezing.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[Newjack]

Most likely meant below freezing.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Ah yeah. It was below 0C but 30 degrees Freedom Units

[Sockethead]

Rob, That hose you replaced looks like it swelled from having oil or power steering fluid dripping on it. That's what happens to rubber when it's constantly wet with oil...

[Newjack]

Rob, That hose you replaced looks like it swelled from having oil or power steering fluid dripping on it. That's what happens to rubber when it's constantly wet with oil...

That makes so much sense. I had a power steering leak last year and had a hose replaced along with the power steering pump.

[johnrando]

Glad you are set. There is a coding mod so your gauge shows the real temp.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[Newjack]

Glad you are set. There is a coding mod so your gauge shows the real temp.

Sent from my SM-G955U using TapatalkI've seen it before, it's called coolant snitch or something. I think after this latest mod I'll be good for a while. Fingers crossed.


31598

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[Vas]

That's a new design of the cap with their logo. Looks sweet

You should also do the coolant gauge temp mod.

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[Newjack]

That's a new design of the cap with their logo. Looks sweet

You should also do the coolant gauge temp mod.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using TapatalkApparently they used to have a red cap which I think would have looked cool too. Regardless I'm happy with the way it looks and how much less stress is on my cooling system now

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[johnrando]

Not talking about coolant snitch, I'm talking about coding so the temp guage reads correct.

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[Newjack]

Not talking about coolant snitch, I'm talking about coding so the temp guage reads correct.

Sent from my SM-G955U using TapatalkI didn't even know that was something you could do. Have you done this to your car?

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[johnrando]

Yes. William wsmeyer did it for me. A few other mafiosos have too.

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[John in VA]

I didn't even know that was something you could do.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1013600

[Newjack]

I'm having issues now with my license plate lights and trunk interior lights. (Damn German cars)

A while back (Sometime right before the Ohio Mafia Meet) I noticed that my trunk interior lights were not coming on when I opened up my trunk. I didn't think much of it, thought it could be the LED's inside had finally died or something to do with the poor quality Eagle Eyes I had installed at the time.

So a little over a week ago I installed my RCR tail lights and noticed that the interior trunk lights were still not working. So its not the tails and its not the bulbs (I used the brand new halogens that came with the RCR tails)

Now last night when I went to look at my tail lights I noticed I have no license plate lights working. Its pitch black and for them to both fail at the exact same time seems extremely rare. I have recently installed a brand new handle a year or so ago after my old one had so much corrosion after the gasket failed that the license plate lights had rusted through and weren't usable.

So after a bit of research it seems that some of the wires inside the trunk lid harness have broken which would explain the trunk lights and license plate lights failing. I haven't striped the rubber off yet to take a look, but it seems like this is where the issue is.

Has anyone else had this issue? Are the interior trunk lights fed power through that harness or is it only the license plate lights?

After searching it seems pretty common but I've never actually heard of anyone having this issue before.


Edited: Pic of my wire harness. It's been like this for a while now, and I guess moisture could get in, but I don't open my trunk very often and it isn't really exposed to the elements. (It scrunches back together when the trunk is closed)

https://i.imgur.com/3jnDwpx.jpg

[Sockethead]

Someone here had that issue but I can't remember who it was...

[BMWCurves]

Someone here had that issue but I can't remember who it was...

Either ZHPizza or 704sw had to fix this.

[ZHPizza]

Either ZHPizza or 704sw had to fix this.@704sw did it

[Newjack]

@704sw did itThanks, I just dug through his build thread and found it. He got a new harness from a part out which I don't have, but I think I'll be fine using butt connectors and then wrapping it up with electrical tape.



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[slater]

Someone here had that issue but I can't remember who it was...


Either ZHPizza or 704sw had to fix this.

i did a while back on my first ZHP coupe.



Thanks, I just dug through his build thread and found it. He got a new harness from a part out which I don't have, but I think I'll be fine using butt connectors and then wrapping it up with electrical tape.



Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

yep, that method works fine.

[Newjack]

After Christmas dinner I went out to the garage with my stepdad and took a look at the trunk lid to figure out why my trunk interior lights and license plate lights weren't coming on.

I cut apart the rubber sleeve and found a bunch of broken wires. One completely broken apart and 4 more with heavy kinks getting ready to go.

https://i.imgur.com/hiiTLRO.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/dLpD9wt.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/NXARIif.jpg


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABGiqizwCso


So we went ahead and used a soldering iron and fixed the broken wires. Right away the interior trunk lights came back on which was great. I'm not sure what the other connections did, but since they were getting ready to fail, we did those too. Used some shrink wrap and put everything back together.

https://i.imgur.com/DIORatU.jpg


I used some electrical tape to try and wrap the tubing sleeve together again, but it didn't work out so great and it cracks open at the top of the sleeve when the trunk shuts. It's not perfect but the wires are insulated and I don't think it should be an issue anyways. Still looking to get some nylon weave or something to wrap the rest of it back up, but I didn't have that and the garage was freezing.

So what about my LED license plate lights? The fucking LED's were dead. Both died at the exact same time. I don't know if they shorted out or something but they were both confirmed dead and I tried using another interior LED in the slot and they came back on no problem. So now I need to order some new LED's for my license plate lights and hope they get here before I get pulled over. gg bois

[Sockethead]

Glad to see you soldered instead of butt connectors. Butt connectors would of made the harness huge in that spot without staggering them...

[John in VA]

You could use a few black zip ties to close the sleeve/trunk.

[ZHPizza]

I can't recommend this stuff enough for wrapping wires:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EH6IZ6Y/

It will give you flexible protection for the wiring and then you can put a rubber sleeve or flexible glue around it for water protection?

[nextelbuddy]

Glad to see you soldered instead of butt connectors. Butt connectors would of made the harness huge in that spot without staggering them...

i actually stopped using solder in some cases. I use blue butt end connectors and crimp one end... then use a lighter to heat up the blue sleeve and remove it (once that blue sleeve is removed its more like a soldered joint size wise), then I crimp the other wire end into the final side then use heat shrink. I found in a lot of cases in high traffic areas with movement, heat/cold or vibration elements had a potential for broken solder joints. I learned this from a local tuner that rewires cars for full standalone DMEs such as motec etc...

[Newjack]

I can't recommend this stuff enough for wrapping wires:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EH6IZ6Y/

It will give you flexible protection for the wiring and then you can put a rubber sleeve or flexible glue around it for water protection?

Just bought some thank you.

So that rubber hose is still there and connected at the bottom. But the top part is completely separated and the electrical tape I put there has already broken off. It kinks right at the top. I don't know of a better way to waterproof it. Such a shitty design by BMW.

[Newjack]

Coolant light came on again for the third time since I've replaced my expansion tank. I've still got a leak somewhere :facepalm

[Sockethead]

Are you sure it just doesn't have a big air bubble in it? How much coolant have you had to add since the initial fill?

[Newjack]

Are you sure it just doesn't have a big air bubble in it? How much coolant have you had to add since the initial fill?

In total I've added maybe a quart of a gallon of 50/50. Maybe a little less.

I'm hopeful it could be an air bubble. Nothing on the drivers side looks wet. Thermostat, water pump, lower radiator and upper radiator hose look fine. If it is leaking my guess would be its coming from the bottom part of the expansion tank right where it fits into the radiator support piece. It's hard to tell since I decided to add coolant without a funnel one day and spilled it all on the expansion tank like an ass.

The light turns off after 10 seconds or so, and it is exceptionally cold here, so maybe thats why.

[az3579]

Maybe your sensor is faulty?

[Sockethead]

How's your bleeder screw? The have a habit of cracking. Also, lol at you temp sensor very closely for ant residue. The o-ring was leaking on mine but it was really hard to tell.
I still think it may be an air bubble though...

[Newjack]

Maybe your sensor is faulty?

Sensor seems to be working just fine. Every time I need to add coolant the stick is lower than it should be. Adding coolant raises it back to the normal range.


How's your bleeder screw? The have a habit of cracking. Also, lol at you temp sensor very closely for ant residue. The o-ring was leaking on mine but it was really hard to tell.
I still think it may be an air bubble though...

I haven't seen any leaking from the bleeder screw, thats a good suggestion though I could replace that. It's only something like $4.

There's another screw underneath the car you need to loosen, the blue screw. Is that part of the radiator? Does that part break or leak over time?

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BIUe5feVZB8/TwhRJyW_DqI/AAAAAAAABgg/lJx6ui_cSvA/s1600/DSCF2967.JPG



I just added coolant again today (first time adding coolant since the light came on the other day at cold start). I've added maybe 3/4 of a gallon of coolant at this point. That seems like too much to be just an air bubble?

[Vas]

What about the temp sensor o-ring that sits in the radiator hose on the other side of the expansion tank?

If you replace the bleeder screw, get a brass one.

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[Newjack]

What about the temp sensor o-ring that sits in the radiator hose on the other side of the expansion tank?

If you replace the bleeder screw, get a brass one.

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The lower radiator hose? I think that o ring is still fine. I didn't see any coolant from there when I looked, but maybe I need to look closer.

For reference the entire cooling system was replaced in 2011 when the car had 95k miles on it. It's sitting 6 years later with 144k

Who sells the brass bleeder screw? I'm all about OEM+ stuff

[John in VA]

Who sells the brass bleeder screw? I'm all about OEM+ stuff

Google "17111712788 brass" & you'll find vendors. There is also an aluminum version, from ECSTuning & Turner, & probably others. While the plastic original may break, I worry about the brass one cracking the plastic neck if tightened too much - the aluminum one could do it, too.

[anandoc]

For reference the entire cooling system was replaced in 2011 when the car had 95k miles on it. It's sitting 6 years later with 144k



I just went through this - my entire cooling system was refreshed in 2014 and I have put only 70,000 KMs on it since. Had to replace my upper rad hose and waterpump since they had developed leaks.

Check for any coolant remnants on your crank puller (from underneath the car). My water pump was leaking coolant and the only way I could tell was by looking at it from underneath the car. The crank pulley had white coolant marks all over.

[Newjack]

Installed new H8-DLG battery. Old battery refused to crank anymore. Had a few real hard starts the past few mornings and today it wouldn't start at all. Measured volts at 8.8v.

R.I.P. my good faithful 49-DL November 19th 2011~ January 8th 2018 - Almost 50k miles on it. And now his watch is ended



Still haven't had time to find my coolant leak. Way too cold lately and I can't see any burnt coolant residue anywhere other than the belly pan.

[Johnmadd]

Rip

[johnrando]

A moment of silence....

[Newjack]

Pretty sure my radiator is busted somewhere and that's why I've been leaking coolant. Seeing some steam coming up from the area between the radiator and expansion tank. Expansion tank is brand new so I highly doubt that part is bad. Radiator is OE.

With that being said there are two part numbers for the OE Manual trans radiator #17119071518 and #17119071517.

17119071518 is for manual trans vehicles up to 5/2005 while 17119071517 is for vehicles after 5/2005.

After running my VIN, it seems my car was born 1/24/05 so logic says to get the 17119071518 part.

Does anyone know the difference between these two parts? They look identical. :dunno

[Vas]

It could be not the radiator but the expansion tank mounting bracket that is secured to the radiator. The expansion tank sits on it and there are o-rings on it I believe.

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[Newjack]

It could be not the radiator but the expansion tank mounting bracket that is secured to the radiator. The expansion tank sits on it and there are o-rings on it I believe.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using TapatalkI'll buy that bracket and a new radiator. I don't want to keep opening up my cooling system.

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[Newjack]

It could be not the radiator but the expansion tank mounting bracket that is secured to the radiator. The expansion tank sits on it and there are o-rings on it I believe.

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I don't see any gaskets on this piece, looks like its just solid plastic and the hoses have gaskets inside of the ends. I think I'll take a gamble and avoid paying another $56 for this as I'm pretty sure the issue is with my radiator and not the bracket.

Link here (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-expansion-tank-retainer-e46-17111436250-1?ads_cmpid=352576039&ads_adid=22972407319&ads_matchtype=&ads_network=g&ads_creative=85218275839&utm_term=&ads_targetid=pla-69584467853&utm_campaign=&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&ttv=2&gclid=CjwKCAiAqIHTBRAVEiwA6TgJw3rMqSkK-VNyY0_bCTb-7TDgWFdB0iSi23oaPTwrgRs_WzdRk1d2eBoCdXEQAvD_BwE)

If not I'll just go to the dealer, pull my pants down and pay for a new bracket.

Fingers crossed :fingerscrossed

[johnrando]

Good luck

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[Newjack]

New turn of events. I'm ditching my halogen headlights and installing OEM AL Bi-Xenon's. Working out the details right now but I hope to have them in a week or two.

Now I need a little advice on wiring the shutters to actuate since I don't have that wiring. I found a few good old threads, but a few part numbers have changed since those threads and I want to make sure I have the right items.

Here is a link to my cart at ECS with the parts in it (https://www.ecstuning.com/Cart/?add1=2675887&qty1=2&add2=2675069&qty2=2&add3=2848562&qty3=2&add4=169431&qty4=1&utm_source=&utm_medium=email&utm_content=link2cart)

THREAD ONE (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=619205&postcount=22)

BMW OEM parts:
61.13.8.365.348 (qty 2) bixenon shutter socket $0.96
61.13.0.006.665 (qty 2) contact bushing for socket $1.68
61.36.8.373.700 (qty 1) relay $7.92
61.13.0.008.998 (qty 1) contact bushing for LCM $1.00

Here's a link to the second thread I am referencing (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?7242-OEM-Bi-Xenons-and-Install-Guidance&p=183746#post183746)

The shutter sockets now only come in a kit for $15. Still looks like the same part though

In my cart, I have the contact bushing for LCM and the bushing for socket. The part numbers in my cart are identical to the part numbers listed in that thread, but on ECSTuning it says they are Genuine MINI parts, not BMW. I'm going to assume they are the exact same part, the pictures even look the same.

Do I need the relay for something?

Any advice is appreciated - BP I'm gonna PM you later on coding a new LCM.



On a side note, my radiator is still not fixed. I ordered parts last Sunday from FCPEuro and paid extra for shipping so the parts would be here before the week ended. They shipped my parts extremely poorly and everything came damaged so I can't use them. Customer service has been horrible, extremely slow, vague and don't seem to give a shit. If they don't do something drastic to fix this I'll be making a review thread on them on top of never giving them my money ever again.

[Newjack]

Replaced the radiator today with the help of Justin. This was a horrible job and it didn't help that we were outside in below freezing temperatures.

I got coolant everywhere, in my mouth, all over my jacket, it sucked. Taking everything apart wasn't so bad, until we had to remove the lower radiator hose. The hose was connected and didn't want to budge. At. All. After 15 minutes Justin took a saw and cut off the plastic bit on the radiator side so we would just have to pull out the part from the hose. Should be easy enough.

It wasn't. We spent another hour at least removing that plastic fitting from the radiator out of that hose. Screwdrivers, pry tools, vice grips, drilling. The force of God himself was holding this piece of shit together and it would not release. after drilling out the tabs to the hose, it finally came out, but in the process ended up accidentally damaging the o ring inside of the hose.

So we went to Advance Auto to try and get a replacement o ring or maybe even a cheap dayco hose just to have something new that would work. (Remember its below freezing and painful just to be outside) - Advance didn't have anything we needed, not even the lower radiator hose, so we went to BMW of Towson to get a new one.

$81.86 later and I have a new hose. Yes a $25 lower radiator hose is $81.86 at the dealer. Absolutely insane.

Get back, put the new hose on, get ready to prep the new radiator with the old plastic mounting pieces and of course the new radiator doesn't line up right. We had to sand down one of the hanging brackets so that it would fit. Now it does. Button everything else back up and we can finally add coolant and finish.

The old radiator was pretty bad. There was obvious corrosion that caused it to bulge at the top. You couldn't see it from looking inside the engine bay, the corrosion was on the side facing the AC condenser. After driving home and not having any issues, I'm pretty sure the radiator was the issue. It was the OE radiator, build date 1-14-05. Lasted 13 years. Makes me not feel bad for spending the extra money on another OEM radiator.

https://i.imgur.com/mKalgr4.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/daDnyok.jpg

[Sockethead]

I can see how that would suck... I hate wrenching on the car in freezing temps... the slightest bump on a hand or finger feels like someone smashed it with a sledgehammer... add liquid and it's just miserable...Good you got it done!

[Vas]

Replaced the radiator today with the help of Justin. This was a horrible job and it didn't help that we were outside in below freezing temperatures.

I got coolant everywhere, in my mouth, all over my jacket, it sucked. Taking everything apart wasn't so bad, until we had to remove the lower radiator hose. The hose was connected and didn't want to budge. At. All. After 15 minutes Justin took a saw and cut off the plastic bit on the radiator side so we would just have to pull out the part from the hose. Should be easy enough.

It wasn't. We spent another hour at least removing that plastic fitting from the radiator out of that hose. Screwdrivers, pry tools, vice grips, drilling. The force of God himself was holding this piece of shit together and it would not release. after drilling out the tabs to the hose, it finally came out, but in the process ended up accidentally damaging the o ring inside of the hose.

So we went to Advance Auto to try and get a replacement o ring or maybe even a cheap dayco hose just to have something new that would work. (Remember its below freezing and painful just to be outside) - Advance didn't have anything we needed, not even the lower radiator hose, so we went to BMW of Towson to get a new one.

$81.86 later and I have a new hose. Yes a $25 lower radiator hose is $81.86 at the dealer. Absolutely insane.

Get back, put the new hose on, get ready to prep the new radiator with the old plastic mounting pieces and of course the new radiator doesn't line up right. We had to sand down one of the hanging brackets so that it would fit. Now it does. Button everything else back up and we can finally add coolant and finish.

The old radiator was pretty bad. There was obvious corrosion that caused it to bulge at the top. You couldn't see it from looking inside the engine bay, the corrosion was on the side facing the AC condenser. After driving home and not having any issues, I'm pretty sure the radiator was the issue. It was the OE radiator, build date 1-14-05. Lasted 13 years. Makes me not feel bad for spending the extra money on another OEM radiator.

https://i.imgur.com/mKalgr4.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/daDnyok.jpgThis post had me rolling.

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[Hornung418]

I fucking hate your car.

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[John in VA]

$81.86 later and I have a new hose. Yes a $25 lower radiator hose is $81.86 at the dealer. Absolutely insane.
I've read about the problems that lower hose can be. It's $61.71 at BMW of Silver Spring before taxes. At least the dealer hose has a 2-year guarantee!

[danewilson77]

I fucking hate your car.

Sent from my Pixel XL using TapatalkLol. Thanks for sticking with him and helping him out. I remember replacing my radiator. I agree. Not fun.

:mafia

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[Newjack]

I can see how that would suck... I hate wrenching on the car in freezing temps... the slightest bump on a hand or finger feels like someone smashed it with a sledgehammer... add liquid and it's just miserable...Good you got it done!

Yeah the weather and how incredibly difficult basic things were made this one of my least favorite jobs I've ever done on this car. I just took a piping hot shower, typing this while my skin is lobster red and I'm still shivering a bit.


I fucking hate your car.


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Don't worry it hates you too. She even got you to drink 91 octane.


I've read about the problems that lower hose can be. It's $61.71 at BMW of Silver Spring before taxes. At least the dealer hose has a 2-year guarantee!

I did my entire cooling system EXCEPT the radiator right after I bought the car in the summer of 2011. Everything then was pretty easy and I don't ever recall that lower hose being such a pain in the ass.

You know what, I should have kept the brown wire tag from that hose, bought an OEM hose from ECS. shipped it to myself, slapped that wire tag on the shipped part and brought it back to BMW of Towson. "Yeah I didn't end up needing this part can I just get my money back?"

I was an asshole about buying that hose though. I walked up to the girl behind the counter and politely said "Hi there, I just need to pay for this overpriced part" - Dude in the back started laughing.

[Sockethead]

I fucking hate your car.

remember his fuel filter debacle at our house a few years ago at the Jersey meet? ;)

[Sockethead]

I was an asshole about buying that hose though. I walked up to the girl behind the counter and politely said "Hi there, I just need to pay for this overpriced part" - Dude in the back started laughing.

Probably because you said what everyone is thinking

[Hornung418]

I think his car hates you too... remember his fuel filter debacle at our house a few years ago at the Jersey meet? ;)I put gasoline in my mouth. Using beer bottles was a bad choice. Fuel lines pulled a siphon on the tank... trying to do anything on this car is a nightmare that just gets worse as the job goes on.

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[Newjack]

I put gasoline in my mouth. Using beer bottles was a bad choice. Fuel lines pulled a siphon on the tank... trying to do anything on this car is a nightmare that just gets worse as the job goes on.

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*using a beer bottle to hold some of the gas coming out of the line*

"Haha like I'm gonna drink this later"

*20 minutes later Justin drinks the gasoline*

"I can't believe I actually fucking drank that"

[danewilson77]

*using a beer bottle to hold some of the gas coming out of the line*

"Haha like I'm gonna drink this later"

*20 minutes later Justin drinks the gasoline*

"I can't believe I actually fucking drank that":rofl

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