Shifter slop

[cparker]

I'm thinking of going with the BMW performance SSK. While I'm at it, I really need to tighten up the shifter mechanism, I can wiggle the shifter probably 3/4" total while in gear.

So I was looking at ECS Tuning and I see that they sell the BMW SSK and also a shifter bushing kit. I assume that I need the bushing kit to remove most of the slop, but my question is: what about aftermarket selector rods... are these a good investment? I've seen the UUC unit advertised and it makes sense but I'm not sure if it works in the real world.

[wsmeyer]

I'm thinking of going with the BMW performance SSK. While I'm at it, I really need to tighten up the shifter mechanism, I can wiggle the shifter probably 3/4" total while in gear.

So I was looking at ECS Tuning and I see that they sell the BMW SSK and also a shifter bushing kit. I assume that I need the bushing kit to remove most of the slop, but my question is: what about aftermarket selector rods... are these a good investment? I've seen the UUC unit advertised and it makes sense but I'm not sure if it works in the real world.

I bought a UUC Evo3 and DSSR. Supposed to be delivered Mon but not sure how fast I'll get it installed.

Which SSK are you looking at? The one with the aluminum knob and s shaped arm isn't perfectly compatible with ZHP's.

William.


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=33.855609,-118.398141

[cparker]

I'm talking about the BMW kit that comes with the ZHP knob. The UUC shifter is way out of my price range.

[GSEN820]

I have BMW ssk, I think it is one of my favorite mods. Price was right, my car is DD

[HokieZHP]

I got the BMW ssk also and still have some slop like you describe so I think bushings may fix it. If it does then I'll do it as well since I want to get rid of my slop also.

[cparker]

When I get to it I'm definitely going to do the bushing so I'll let you guys know if it works or not. I would definitely like to know if the aftermarket connecting rod would play a big part in tightening things up?

[zj96sc]

I think you can get a solid 80/20 solution out of just replacing all the bushings in the assembly with stock parts. I did this on my E30, added a Z3 1.9 shifter arm (popular choice for the e30 crowd) and the change was remarkable.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/a/n/202.png

I replaced 7, 10, 11, 2, and 4. To put it all back together with 4 new washers (#10) is actually really difficult and very very tight.

15 is apparently a very big deal in slop but I could not even get close to getting that thing off without taking the whole freakin car apart so I called it done.

Again, might not be as great as an aftermarket selector rod or DSSR, but it is also a ton cheaper.

[webster]

the UUC EVO3 kit w/ DSSR = :drool

i too gots me some shift slop

that and the steering wheel are next on my list...

[kpro]

I too just got the UUC shifter kit and DSSR, they were an early Christmas gift. I have yet to have them installed, but I've driven a ZHP with both installed and it has to be one of my favorite differences between my car and his. Its well worth it.

[webster]

local indy shop quoted $225 for the complete UUC kit+dssr install

seems a little high no? i got the typical "you get what you pay for" defence from the technician...

[zj96sc]

I'd DIY. No crazy work or tools required - just time and patience. Probably one of the best first DIY projects out there IMO.

[webster]

i donno, part of me thinks i got no chance at DIY'ing something like this. the other half is like "dude come on don't be a p*****" lol

although...i have already done more DIY stuff on this car than all other cars I've driven combined. kidney grilles, intake, sprint booster, aux input, corner reflectors were all things i wasn't sure i could do myself (mind you i have zero mechanical/engineering experience).

are there any DIY guides out there for this specific product (UUC Evo3+DSSR)?

[zj96sc]

15 page PDF how to from UUC themselves specific for the 330i/Ci located here:

http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/EVO3_INSTALLS/EVO3_SHIFTER_INSTALL_USCE2.pdf

[webster]

wow that seems pretty intense, might be worth the $200 to have a professional do it...especially considering I'd have to get under the car and do not own any jacks

[zj96sc]

Not trying to be argumentative here, but my vote would be to take those $200 and buy yourself a decent jack and stands. Then you've got them for next time. I hate to see someone give $200 to a shop when they could invest that money on tools and save the difference all while investing in their own skills and confidence.

Every DIYer starts somewhere. You've already bitten off a handful of decent projects.....keep up the momentum!

[wsmeyer]

Not trying to be argumentative here, but my vote would be to take those $200 and buy yourself a decent jack and stands. Then you've got them for next time. I hate to see someone give $200 to a shop when they could invest that money on tools and save the difference all while investing in their own skills and confidence.

Every DIYer starts somewhere. You've already bitten off a handful of decent projects.....keep up the momentum!

+1

[webster]

no worries, i appreciate the motivation. try explaining that to my better half though. i can already hear her response in my head... "you don't know what the hell you're doing underneath a car! you did a few small projects and now you think you're a mechanic? take it to the shop!"

lol

she's not very confidence inspiring, but she is rational.

[danewilson77]

I don't actually think that sounds too high...

[zj96sc]

If she's rational she should be more than behind the idea of spending $200 on tools instead of throwing it in the trashcan :)

[CERF04ZHP]

I'm thinking of going with the BMW performance SSK. While I'm at it, I really need to tighten up the shifter mechanism, I can wiggle the shifter probably 3/4" total while in gear.

So I was looking at ECS Tuning and I see that they sell the BMW SSK and also a shifter bushing kit. I assume that I need the bushing kit to remove most of the slop, but my question is: what about aftermarket selector rods... are these a good investment? I've seen the UUC unit advertised and it makes sense but I'm not sure if it works in the real world.

I had the ole' shifter slop problem as well, and reading up on it, decided to replace my selector rod with the DSSR from UUC. It made absolutely no difference. Since, I have purchased a B&M SSK, as well as necessary OEM bushings, cups and o-rings. Still waiting for an opportunity to have them installed, but those pieces combined with the DSSR should make for a nice precise setup.

[GT172I]

Here's the DIY I used when putting the EVO 3 and DSSR in mine (looks like you've got an '04 330 as well): http://www.my330i.com/mod37.php

Mine actually turned into a huge pain because of the exhaust bolts refusing to break loose. After repeated soakings with PB Blaster and penetrating oil had no effect was forced to resort to a blowtorch and a BFH. Dropping the driveshaft also gives you a ton of room if you've big hands but can be done without. All said and done I absolutely love it, definitely the best mod I've done. $225 isn't that bad for the amount of work (that mine req'd anyways), but like zj96sc said tools are a better investment.

[HokieZHP]

Cparker- any update on whether the bushings made a difference?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[billschusteriv]

I think you can get a solid 80/20 solution out of just replacing all the bushings in the assembly with stock parts. I did this on my E30, added a Z3 1.9 shifter arm (popular choice for the e30 crowd) and the change was remarkable.


This. I also replaced all of the shift bushings/clips in my e30 (but left the shift lever stock). IIRC, everything is available in a kit from BavAuto and Pelican Parts. I think I pieced my order together from BavAuto, Pelican Parts, and AutohausAZ so I could get the best price on all of the parts.

The change really was remarkable.

Very tight is an understatement. It actually took several days of careful shifting (ensuring I got in the right gear) until it loosen up and I felt comfortable with the new shift "pattern".

[cparker]

Sorry guys, I'm just coming back around to this. billschusteriv do you have a list of the parts you bought? There is a diagram on the first page but it'd be nice to have some part numbers of everything you used.

[danewilson77]

Sorry guys, I'm just coming back around to this. billschusteriv do you have a list of the parts you bought? There is a diagram on the first page but it'd be nice to have some part numbers of everything you used.

Billy is MIA.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

[cparker]

I forgot about realoem.com, so I went on there and found this:

3609

3610

It shows a different diagram for my car than what was posted earlier in the thread.

[cparker]

I'm thinking:

02 x 2
03 x 1
04 x 1
07 x 1
10 x 4
11 x 2
12 x 1

What do you guys think?

[wsmeyer]

I read somewhere #15 was a common source of slop.

William.

[danewilson77]

I think Kyle has good info on this.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

[LivesNearCostco]

I replaced #15, along with parts 9 (UUC DSSR), 10 (4 of them), 11 (x2), 12 (which includes 13 and 14), and 15. I don't think #15 (the dowel pin) makes a difference unless it's really worn or falls out, which it shouldn't do as long as #13 (lock ring) is tight and in place. The parts that are supposed to make the biggest difference are 7 (cup bushing), 9, 12 (if worn), 13 (especially yellow sponge #14), and maybe the plastic ball (steel if you get UUC SSK) on #6 (shift lever). Also part #2 or equivalent (carrier bushings) if you have a 5-speed.

Note that if you buy part #12, it usually includes a new #13 and #14, but not a new #15. Replacing 12/13/14/15 while transmission is in the car is difficult on the ZHP. I had to remove exhaust, transmission brace, and shift carrier then feel around with some picks to remove the lock ring (#13). It would have been easier if I'd disconnected the driveshaft. I have a theory that the easier way to remove it rather than remove the whole lock ring is to rotate the lock ring around, if you can, so the gap faces downward. Then use a 90-degree pick to push the dowel pin down from above (around the sides of the lock-ring). Once the dowel pin is out you can remove the joint (#12) and either replace the yellow spongecake inside or replace the whole joint. Putting the joint back on with a new spongecake is HARD!

You can install a SSK and/or DSSR without removing the joint and UUC recommended told me replacing it might not be worth the effort unless you're dropping the transmission for some other reason, and they were probably right. But sometimes I am dense and stubborn!