View Full Version : Vibration when starting in first
midlandtech
09-21-2011, 08:56 AM
Hey guys been noticing something today when I have been driving around sometimes as I start in 1st particularly when I am on a hill I feel a vibration/slight hesitation in the car, as RPM's build this goes away and all is well but I am concerned as to what it may be. Hopefully its driver error or something as I have already dropped 2500 in parts alone on this thing in less than 6 months
telijah
09-21-2011, 09:45 AM
Where do you feel this vibration? Steering wheel, footwell, center of the car floor board etc...
Hermes
09-21-2011, 09:52 AM
You say when RPMs build it goes away? Is it just at idle then cause mine occasionally has done that (I call it a hiccup) and I'm gonna change the VANOS seals to fix
llll1l1ll
09-21-2011, 10:26 AM
If it's coming from the driveline, like a chattering sound, it has to do with your flywheel and clutch. I've heard that a little chatter in the clutch area on these cars is okay.
ZSP-Mafia
09-21-2011, 10:33 AM
I sometimes feel a little shudder in the the clutch when starting in first. I suspected a warped flywheel initially, but the problem comes and goes, so Im not so sure.
midlandtech
09-21-2011, 10:43 AM
Vibration is felt through the seat and gear selector and drops off around 2.5-3000 RPM it does come and go so its hard to nail down. Its not the flywheel or clutch as I literally just replaced them. I'm wondering if its related to a driveshaft bearing or something.
llll1l1ll
09-21-2011, 11:05 AM
If it were the center support bearing, I would be inclined to think it would vibrate under heavy acceleration in all gears.
az3579
09-21-2011, 12:14 PM
Guibo. I have same problem, though not to that extent. My guibo is torn.
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midlandtech
09-21-2011, 01:09 PM
Guibo?
danewilson77
09-21-2011, 01:10 PM
Guibo?
Diff flex disc.
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midlandtech
09-21-2011, 01:18 PM
just researched it thats exactly what it is you guys rock :fistpump
llll1l1ll
09-22-2011, 04:04 AM
For the record, is the guibo the same thing as the center support bearing?
telijah
09-22-2011, 05:32 AM
No, the guibo connected between the front end of your drive shaft and the rear of the transmission. The center support bearing is, well, in the center of your drive shaft. The drive shaft goes through it, and the center support bearing mounts up to the bottom of your car. Guibo is #2 here (http://www.circlebmwparts.com/parts/images/00003408.png), but a better picture of what they actually look like is here (http://www.google.com/search?q=26117511454&hl=en&prmd=imvns&source=lnms&tbm=isch&ei=4Tl7ToPNOYW2twf9taEC&sa=X&oi=mode_link&ct=mode&cd=2&ved=0CBcQ_AUoAQ&biw=1280&bih=715)
The guibo is the likely suspect. If it were the center support bearing, you would normally only feel it under acceleration in all gears as mentioned, but usually only in the lower RPM band.
llll1l1ll
09-22-2011, 09:13 AM
Ah-ha! Gotchya. Thanks for that clarification.
LivesNearCostco
03-21-2013, 01:01 PM
I have a funny vibration under acceleration, mostly in 2nd gear but sometimes in 3rd. Feels like right rear wheel is running over a rumble strip, then once the car hits a certain speed or I let off the gas, it disappears. The first few times it happened, I literally thought my right rear tire was running over the lane divider Botts dots.
Tuesday an indie did tie rods and alignment then test drive. Based on feel, said it's probably CSB. Last night swapped out wheels and it's still there (so not unbalanced wheel). Guibo replaced 35,000 miles ago and I know it wasn't bolted up correctly (with arrows pointed at flanges). CSB probably original. How does a bad guibo feel differently from a bad CSB?
Could my problem be a failed right rear shock? I should have swapped the shocks last night when I was bleeding the brakes. Maybe will swap rear shocks tomorrow night.
But assuming it is the CSB, how hard is it to separate the driveshaft and remove the old CSB? Some DIYs make it sound easy, others hard.
echo46
03-21-2013, 03:11 PM
I don't think a failed shock would cause that type of vibration. I drove my e36 with all four blown shocks for a good 2 months with no issues. Check your springs and check the rear trailing arm bushings and for that matter check all the rear bushings.
09mageec
03-21-2013, 03:43 PM
The infamous Guibo! Those things go quite regularly on the e39 M, so Ive heard.
LivesNearCostco
03-22-2013, 10:24 AM
Echo thanks. But I did remove, inspect and swap rear shocks last night, which didn't seem to change anything. Forgot to check RTABs but I think they're okay. Assuming for now it's the guibo or CSB. Already ordered new guibo and CSB and they should arrive tomorrow but not sure this can be DIY. My 2nd set of jack stands and 2nd jack are still in storage--would have to buy at least another pair of jack stands and maybe a 2nd jack. Even then not sure I can separate the driveshaft on my own. Maybe will pay a shop to do this--boo hoo.
Lespaulman16
03-26-2013, 08:26 AM
You can DIY that, no problem. Jack stands cost a hell of a lot less then paying a shop the 4 or 5 hours (at minimum) they will want to complete.
LivesNearCostco
03-26-2013, 08:39 PM
Hey thanks everyone. It was the guibo and the CSB. I bought a 2nd (really 3rd) pair of jackstands for $17 at HF (coupon) and a $99 3-ton floor jack from Costco, which I returned unopened the next day. The little 1.5-ton HF aluminum jack did the trick, though I had to move it front to back a few times and put a piece of 2x4 on it to get the car high enough. Took me 6 hours including a 1-hour meal break. Probably could do it in 4 hours or less next time. Local BMW shop quoted 3 hours though I suspect a dealer would have quoted at least 4 hours.
Old CSB, completely failed 7544
Old guibo (left) nad new guibo (right)--hope Rein is a decent brand!7545
Old guibo in place (installed incorrectly) after loosening 6 M12 nuts. Realized afterward you only need to remove 3 to take out driveshaft, and can pre-attach 3 before putting driveshaft back in place. With two 18mm box wrenches, I could loosen them without locking driveshaft using e-brake.
7546
Old CSB in place after marking driveshaft halves.
7547
Rear half of driveshaft after removing front and CSB. I scraped old butyl tape off old CSB mount and stuck it onto new CSB mount. Plus re-used whatever was sticking to the underside of the arch.
7548
LivesNearCostco
03-26-2013, 08:47 PM
Limited to 5 attached pictures per post so starting new post.
On 6-speed, need to remove transmission brace to loosen guibo bolts with 2-wrench method. (Might be possible to loosen them using one socket and locking driveshaft without removing support brace, but I doubt it.) How I supported the transmission.
7549
Here's the bolt you loosen to separate driveshaft halves. Don't need to do this if just replacing guibo, but must loosen to replace CSB. Loosening it was easy, just slow work with 18mm box wrench. Replacing it was PITA, hard to get it started with my fingers. I think if you reconnect front of driveshaft/guibo first, it's harder to replace this bolt (and associated washer) because you need to slightly separate the driveshaft halves to get the wrench in there.
7550
LivesNearCostco
04-01-2013, 09:29 AM
I created a CSB/guibo DIY (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?9412) in the DIY section.
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