ATL ZHP v2.0 - A Silbergrau Owner's Chronicle [Archive] - BMW E46 330 ZHP For Sale Forum

zj96sc

09-20-2011, 01:18 PM

So, I loved the first one so much I knew I had to get another. 34 days of ownership wasn't enough.

One of the ZHPs I was interested in before buying my TIAG was a Silbergrau in Raleigh. I originally wanted only Silbergrau, but this one had a leather interior and I was dead set on Alcantara.

The prospect of starting my search anew and dealing with new sellers was just too much to make me rule this car out over leather vs. alcantara. I decided to go for it and see how I felt about the leather and possibly pursue an alcantara swap sometime down the road.

So, I picked up the Raleigh car from a great seller on bf.c.

2005 Silbergrau Sedan
92,000
Black Cube
Black Leather
Cold Wx
Xenons

Mods:
Body color molding
Clear Corners
CSL Reps wrapped in Sumitomo rubber, 135s also included in new hankook rubber
Dice iPod kit

Some pics from the FS thread:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Picture005.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Picture027.jpg

Flew up to Raleigh Friday on Airtran for a whopping $79. Got her home 500 miles later.

I'm just not a fan of body color molding or clear corners so I got right to work. I also was a little disappointed in the cosmetic condition of the car, particularly the stock ZHP wheels. They were DISGUSTING.

So, all new OEM molding, OEM amber plastic, Khoalty black kidneys, a new shift knob, and about 6 hours of intense scrubbing, chemicals, and washing later, here is what I've got for ya:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0525.jpg

The Munich plate is actually a real plate from the mid 90s from Germany. Operated on a car owned by the German side of my family, so it is the real deal. :)

I've got the body color molding and depo clear corners to put up for sale. I also think I'll take the dice kit out since i do not and will never own an ipod.

Progress coming soon/pics I'll get up soon/parts I have in the garage:
-CSL Tri-color stitch alcantara wheel swap (leather M3 wheel came with it)
-expansion tank, water pump, tstat, upper/lower hoses
-idler, tensioner, tensioner pulley, belts
-driver window regulator
-possibly toss on the CSL reps to see if I like the look
-Beisan seals and rattle kit. This vanos rattles like a mother!
-all filters and fluids
-Meyle HD FCABS
-OEM Aux audio input
-new black bumper mesh grille
-new headlight lenses to replace the pitted mess on there now
-OEM wiper arms to replace the worn bosch blades
-Leatherique Rejuvinator Oil and Prestine Clean on the way to get the leather nice and supple :)

All comments and suggestions welcome. I'd like to get this thing ready to go another 100k.

In an interesting note, this car is substantially more powerful than my first ZHP. I'm not sure if the last one had something wrong with it or what, but the difference is significant. This car also has the CDV deleted which is just a remarkable difference. I never thought it would be THAT big of a deal but boy was I wrong.

Stay tuned! I'll keep the updates flowing and hope I can keep this one for a long, long time.:fingerscrossed:fingerscrossed
Paul

Mr Paul

09-20-2011, 01:23 PM

Looks great. I too like the contrasting black molding on silver grey. Link to what happened to your first ZHP?

danewilson77

09-20-2011, 01:34 PM

Looks great.

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Oli77

09-20-2011, 02:26 PM

Love that color!

Its the Silbergrau club.

johnrando

09-20-2011, 02:34 PM

Sounds like you've got it all covered. Looks great.

Alphatek45

09-20-2011, 02:57 PM

Looks sweet. Congrats!

ranger

09-20-2011, 03:23 PM

What part of Atlanta are you located - I am in Canton but work in Marietta.

Mtnman

09-20-2011, 03:47 PM

I remember this car coming up for sale. Im from raleigh. Looks like u have it ready for a full maintenance run. You will easily get another 100k. I've got 152,000 on a damn automatic. U r good to go.

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zj96sc

09-20-2011, 04:37 PM

No links for the demise of the TIAG. It was a shitty day that I just don't want to really broadcast on the net. No injuries, just a collision that caused a lot of damage to the ZHP because of its low bumper height versus a minivan.

Yeah, it should get it set for a while. Only parts I'm still waiting on are the headlight lenses and bumper mesh. My Leatherique showed up today.

Ranger - I believe we met at Shane's.

iZHP

09-20-2011, 04:53 PM

The car looks great. I would have kept the clears, but I like the black better than body color on sedans.

static667

09-20-2011, 06:11 PM

Very nice! When one isn't enough...

Dugan.REC

09-21-2011, 12:19 PM

Nice car! How much did you pick it up for? I may be interested in your DICE connector - if you take it out PM me and let's see if we can strike a deal.

Ryan

dinanm3atl

09-21-2011, 12:46 PM

Very nice! Bring it out to the weekly BMW meet tomorrow night. Casey Withers from the forum is here in town.

zj96sc

09-21-2011, 03:20 PM

I paid right at KBB excellent value, with 2 sets of wheels and oem amber lights included. In hindsight I think it should've maybe been a little lower given the cosmetic condition of the car, but what's done is done. I'll post up when all the stuff goes up for sale.

Slammed this week. Otherwise I would.

ranger

09-21-2011, 05:03 PM

zj96sc

10-02-2011, 10:03 AM

So since this ZHP didn't have alcantara seats like my first one and had already had its Alcantara wheel replaced with a leather M3 wheel under CPO years ago, I was a little sad.

I figured to throw myself a bit of a bone I'd rock an alcantara wheel as long as it would hold out, while also doing my best to keep my hands washed and wear to a minimum.

Rather than pony up the $1200 for a ZHP alcantara wheel, I did a little reading. As it turns out, the ZCP alcantara wheel can be had for almost 1/3rd the price of the ZHP wheel, with the added bonus of tri-color stitching. Price I ended up paying was the same price as a tri-color stitch alcantara rewrap + core from Coby, and I figured a great condition leather wheel would go for more than the core value if I wanted to sell it. Still debating on that one - may keep it around for the inevitable degradation of the alcantara. TBD.

All that it takes is swapping the full multifunction button panel over from the ZHP wheel to the ZCP replacement....beyond that, plug, play, enjoy.

Pics:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0527Large.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0528Large.jpg

:drool:drool

Remove the switch panel loosening these two sets of torx screws:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0529Large.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0530Large.jpg

(each side)

and you get:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0531Large.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0532Large.jpg

Reassemble and you're done. Took about 45 minutes, if that.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0535Large.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0536Large.jpg

The astute among you will note that the wheel appears slightly turned to the right. This is because I got it off one tooth. I figured since the wheel has a keyway on it that the column would as well, meaning you can only put it back together one way, right? Right?! No. So, the next day I blew it all apart, clicked one tooth CCW, all is well.

zj96sc

10-02-2011, 10:08 AM

I swapped my headlight lenses. Stockers were pitted and gross:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0541Large.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0566Large.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0567Large.jpg

While I had the headlights out I noted my lenses seemed a bit hazy. I noticed this while doing the bowl swaps on my last ZHP as well - not sure if its years of dust or just residue or what, but there was definitely some kind of film on my lenses when I pulled them out. You can just barely see it here (with a clean smudge through the center where I wiped it off:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0569Large.jpg

So, not much of a DIY here but just swap on the new lenses. There are tons of headlight disassembly DIYs out there so I figured there was no point in spelling out the steps:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0540Large.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0572Large.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0570Large.jpg

zj96sc

10-02-2011, 10:10 AM

I also swapped the lower grill.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0542Large.jpg

To remove the old one, just push back on it. It is retained by clips around the perimeter of the opening (somewhat visible here):

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0573Large.jpg

Once its loose, it becomes a frustrating exercise of fitting a large square peg through a small round opening. You have to separate the grill from its backing by releasing a second set of retaining clips, then wrestle it around left and right, eventually it will come out. Then wrestle the new one in, snap it back onto its backing plate, then snap it all onto the bumper. It was a total fawking PITA. I finished in the dark so no pics of the new one.

Doable, just be prepared to spend some time on it. Very. Frustrating.

zj96sc

10-02-2011, 10:11 AM

I also realized like 30% of my photos are out of focus. Stupid P&S.

Oil change this past Tuesday with BMW Synth and a Mahle filter.

I also removed the DICE ipod thing from the PO and wired in my OEM aux audio input. All pretty standard stuff here so no pics.

Anyway, comments, questions, thoughts all welcome.

Next weekend is expansion tank, tstat, water pump, hoses, plugs. And maybe a window regulator if i'm feeling sprightly.

johnrando

10-02-2011, 12:21 PM

Very nice stuff.

zj96sc

10-05-2011, 10:33 AM

Alright, I'm just trying to put together my notes for the next round of maintenance (targeted for 100k but will probably be about 95k) I want to do. If anyone can answer some of the questions below or relay personal experiences it would be much appreciated!

Purchased already:

Cooling: Expansion tank, water pump, tstat, upper/lower hoses, temp sensor, BMW antifreeze,

Engine: pulleys, tensioner, belts, plugs (NGK)

Suspension: FCABS only. RTABS are going to need to be done but I think they'll be slated for 120k.

To be purchased:

VANOS: Beisan Seals + Rattle, or Dr. Vanos? I just realized literally today that the $150 core is included in the Dr. Vanos $400, not on top of it. That means we're talking $250 to plug and play swap, $120 for Beisan parts + $15 for the jaw liners. All said and done probably a ~$100 premium to not have to mess sandpaper and preloading. What's the consensus here?

VANOS related: Valve cover gasket, 15 grommets, a few of the crush washers for the VANOS removal, VANOS gasket, considering the solenoid piston assemblies. What other parts do I need to complete the VANOS rebuild(swap)?

Brakes: Collapsed vacuum line, fluid flush. Do I want Motul 5.1 or ATE Super Blue? Understand it takes about 24floz to flush?

Tranny: 2 QTS MTL if I've got no tag, MT-90 if I've got a tag. Or do I want to run some royal purple? Dane, I know you drained RP after a few hundred miles. Why?

Diff: 1 (2?) QT Redline 75W90 - or again...Royal Purple? What about AMSOIL severe gear?

Power steering: (turkey baster swap) What brand ATF? Meyle, Redline, RP, AMSOIL, Mobil?

Any other general systems/parts I need to be thinking of?

thanks everyone.
Paul

danewilson77

10-05-2011, 12:42 PM

Heard better things about Redline. I like it. Also...open fill plug first. Redline for tranny and diff.

Also....vanos is not plug and play. You will do 80% of the labor the Dr. Vanos way.

I used M1 ATF for PS.

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webster

10-05-2011, 02:04 PM

i believe the dr vanos kits includes the vanos gasket and washers, fyi

might as well toss in a magnetic drain plug while you're at it.

danewilson77

10-05-2011, 02:07 PM

i believe the dr vanos kits includes the vanos gasket and washers, fyi

might as well toss in a magnetic drain plug while you're at it.

For the tranny or diff? Doesn't look like he's donig cranks oil....

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zj96sc

10-05-2011, 03:25 PM

Webster, you're right. Dr. Vanos kit includes gasket and crush washers.

I need to do some more research on the merits of either kit, steps for removal, work involved. I just can't buy that there's 80% overlap - I've read both procedures, but I know you've done it several times.

I've emailed Dr. Vanos and essentially asked why I would want to spend the money, and encouraged them to get as technical as possible in the response. We'll see what I get.

zj96sc

10-06-2011, 06:43 AM

Beisan:
Seal Kit - 60.00
Rattle Kit - 60.00
Jaw Liners - 15.00
Gasket - 11-36-1-433-817 - 4.00
Washers - 32-41-1-093-596 - (2x) - 0.50

Dr. Vanos:
VANOS - $250
(includes gasket and 2x washers)

Both:
VCG - 11-12-0-030-496 - 23.00
Nut Seal - 11-12-1-437-395 - (15x) - 15.00
Vanos bolt - 11-36-1-748-745 - (2x) - 4.00

Sums to $181.50 for Beisan, $292 even for Dr. VANOS.

So $110.50 for what?

Still waiting on a response from Dr. Vanos regarding what I get for my $110.50.

Will post up when I have more info.

webster

10-06-2011, 07:06 AM

thanks, looking forward to their response.

MsRN

10-06-2011, 07:22 AM

I'm interested, too; my Silbergrau rocketship arrives today between 11 and 12!

Beisan:
Seal Kit - 60.00
Rattle Kit - 60.00
Jaw Liners - 15.00
Gasket - 11-36-1-433-817 - 4.00
Washers - 32-41-1-093-596 - (2x) - 0.50

Dr. Vanos:
VANOS - $250
(includes gasket and 2x washers)

Both:
VCG - 11-12-0-030-496 - 23.00
Nut Seal - 11-12-1-437-395 - (15x) - 15.00
Vanos bolt - 11-36-1-748-745 - (2x) - 4.00

Sums to $181.50 for Beisan, $292 even for Dr. VANOS.

So $110.50 for what?

Still waiting on a response from Dr. Vanos regarding what I get for my $110.50.

Will post up when I have more info.

danewilson77

10-06-2011, 07:24 AM

MsRN

10-06-2011, 07:33 AM

Labor to rebuild the vanos....

How much time are we talking about (Assume I am mildly mechanically-challenged, Dane)?

BTW, does the engine have to be locked at TDC for this rebuild?

danewilson77

10-06-2011, 07:38 AM

4-5 hours.....total.....start to finish.

for them to do just the anti-rattle / seal replacement, on a vanos already pulled......I bet they have it down to an hour on that...or less...

MsRN

10-06-2011, 07:53 AM

Is that 4.5 hours for Dane, or 4.5 hours for Michele?

danewilson77

10-06-2011, 08:01 AM

Is that 4.5 hours for Dane, or 4.5 hours for Michele?

For you my dear. Just follow the procedure. Have Lubby help. There's some strength moves in there, plus its always better with a buddy.

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zj96sc

10-06-2011, 09:10 AM

Results from Chris Gant at Dr. Vanos:

Hi Paul,

Thank you for your interest in DrVanos! To answer your questions we are basically just doing all the work for you, but the end results are going to be about the same as if you use a DIY kit. Of course we do fully disassemble the vanos, clean everything and bead blast the housing to provide a like-new product to our customers. We then bench test the vanos once it's rebuilt to ensure it's working properly, and offer a 1 year warranty. We also provide the mounting gasket and crush washers in the kit.

Mechanically the end result will be the same either way, you are just not having to worry about doing any damage to the vanos while rebuilding it yourself. We do see the occasional broken piston or stripped bolt from the DIY customers from being careless or accidentally dropping and breaking a part. Unfortunately BMW does not sell spare parts on these vanos units, so if you do damage something internally you'll likely need to buy another vanos to salvage the parts from.

Let me know if you have any other questions,
Chris Gant

I was hoping you could take a moment and discuss the benefits of going with your complete VANOS versus a Beisan Systems o-ring + rattle kit.

Subject is a 2005 ZHP with 95k. Pretty noticeable VANOS rattle, no drastic power dips.

I am not concerned with the installation "difficulty" of either case, I'm a fairly competent shadetree mechanic with a full complement of tools available. I'm also an engineer by trade so please feel free to get as technical as you can with any information you can provide. Thank you in advance!

My main question focuses on the following statement on your website:

"we rebuild the internal bearings and reduce the tolerances to eliminate the 'marbles in a tin can' noises commonly found on the 'ZHP' package E46 models"

1 - What does Dr Vanos do to eliminate the rattle? Do you install new bearing rings only, or are there additional procedures?

2 - What is your procedure for preloading the piston bearings with the new bearing rings?

3 - What other rebuilding is done with the VANOS beyond o-rings and any rattle elimination work from #1?

4 - Are there any other differences of note between your complete VANOS and what I would have after installing the 8 o-rings and bearing rings from Beisan?

I guess what I'm ultimately interested in is what I get over and above what I would have with my VANOS after Beisan's o-rings and bearings installed myself, taking installation time and work out the equation - if that makes sense.

Thank you very much for your time - I certainly don't mean to be a burden, I just genuinely would like to know what the price difference gets me.

Thank you again!

I think based on this response that I'm going to do the work myself. I see no in depth discussion on preload settings for the bearings, or anything that leads me to believe the quality of the finished product would be higher than what I can produce myself, short of maybe the beadblasted exterior which is not a factor for me. Certainly mean no disrespect to Chris or his product - it was a professional and honest answer which I really do appreciate.

Anyway, hope this helps someone make their decision....Beisan it is for me!

Paul

danewilson77

10-06-2011, 01:51 PM

Not entirely true either. Vanos piston bolts are most commonly snapped (live done 6 though and never snapped one) and can be purchased separately, and on the cheap.

Oh...and THEY'RE REVERSE THREADED PEEPS!

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zj96sc

10-14-2011, 05:36 PM

Alright....

On the docket for this weekend:

- lamin-x on headlight lenses and fogs
- cooling overhaul (tstat, pump, hoses, tank)
- pulleys belts tensioner
- turkey baster PS swap
- FCABs if I'm feeling energetic

Might also toss the CSL reps on and see how they tickle mah fancy.

Stay tuned for pics and junk.

zj96sc

10-15-2011, 07:05 PM

Didn't get much done today beyond Lamin-x on the fogs and headlights, pics of the fogs only:

note the severe pitting:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0595.jpg

film applied:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0596.jpg

beyond that, did some leatherique on the seats. the pictures don't capture much, but i figured i'd toss them up anyway:

before:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0586.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0587.jpg

after:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0597.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0598.jpg

its pretty tough to photograph, but believe me when i say the difference is substantial.

on top of all of it, i wish i could photograph smells. the interior smells like fresh leather. i wish i could capture this!

danewilson77

10-15-2011, 07:41 PM

Looks great.

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kayger12

10-16-2011, 03:20 AM

Nice work. Seats are looking great.

Droid X. Tapatalk. Use it.

zj96sc

10-16-2011, 02:33 PM

As is often the case once you start turning wrenches, you kind of forget to take pictures. I had a bud come up and help out and we just kind of got in the zone and knocked it out. Did belts, tensioner, pulleys, waterpump, tstat, hoses, and expansion tank in about 4 hours with a trip to home depot for a new work light and firehouse for some sammiches.

So here are the two pictures I took:

new pump bolted up (Graf, metal impeller):

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0606.jpg

all done (minus fan and hoses):

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0607.jpg

Went to mount up the CSL reps and found the old rears basically on the wear bars. The PO said they had plenty of life left....guess not. Not sure what my plan will be there.

After all was said and done I figured I'd give her a bath and take her for quick spin to soak up the epic weather. Stopped at a local park...i mean my driveway....for a quick snap with my p&s:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0610.jpg

Still to come is FCABs, PS and brake flush, and VANOS.

danewilson77

10-16-2011, 02:58 PM

Excellent work right there....

carsontl

10-17-2011, 03:43 PM

love what you've done so far! I'm following down almost the same path lol

zj96sc

11-17-2011, 07:55 AM

Just wanted to place this data here to help build our technical base.

Last Friday after about 2.5 hours of 80mph and 29F I got an SES light. No ill behavior, no power loss.

I pulled codes and got P2227, P0171, P0174. These are a baro pressure sensor circuit error and banks 1/2 lean.

I scoured e46fanatics and could not find much on 2227. 171 and 174 are of course very common.

In an autozone parking lot in coastal SC, I pulled apart my intake tract and looked for what I figured was surely a torn intake boot. No dice.

I bought a paper filter in the store to replace my K&N, some MAF cleaner, and the $99 actron scanner. Cleaned the MAF, put in the paper filter, and cleared the codes. I have put another ~650 miles on the car since then including 80mph for 3+ hours (but not at 29F) with no SES.

So I'm not sure what's up. I am hesitant to believe simply cleaning the MAF had any effect, but I'll note here how long it goes before another SES.

Smolck

12-27-2011, 03:31 PM

So I'm not sure what's up. I am hesitant to believe simply cleaning the MAF had any effect, but I'll note here how long it goes before another SES.

Can you give us an update on the p2227 code. Did it return?

zj96sc

12-28-2011, 06:48 AM

No P2227 return. I've put about 1500 miles on it, 500 on a long trip at ~37F.

Not really sure what's up but I'm not complaining.

zj96sc

01-06-2012, 06:54 PM

So, my awesome wife got my a UUC Evo3 with DSSR for Christmas.

Had some spare time this afternoon and set about installing it.

As a baseline, I snapped some shots of the stock ZHP shift lever:

Neutral:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Evo3_plus_DSSR/IMG_0635Large.jpg

3rd:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Evo3_plus_DSSR/IMG_0636Large.jpg

4th:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Evo3_plus_DSSR/IMG_0637Large.jpg

Quick rundown on the stuff before I started snapping pics:

First things first, you have to lower the exhaust:

-separate the 4 bolts at the bottom of the headers
-remove the two crossmembers
-lower the exhaust and set it on some blocks to keep it from hanging.

Next, remove the exhaust heat shield:

-remove the 2 frontmost bolts holding up the heatshield and let it hang. access!

Next, lower the transmission:

-place a jack under the tranny crossmember and
-remove the 4 bolts to the transmission crossmember
-lower the crossmember by the jack

Once you have access, you'll see this:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Evo3_plus_DSSR/IMG_0639Large.jpg

Remove that circlip with some snapring pliers.

From the top, you have to spin the nylon pivot cup with some needlenose to release the retention tabs that hold it to the carrier:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Evo3_plus_DSSR/IMG_0643Large.jpg

Once you do that, give a yank and you get:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Evo3_plus_DSSR/IMG_0645Large.jpg

Back underneath, remove the two pins holding the carrier to the tranny, slide forward to remove from the rear bushing, and you get:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Evo3_plus_DSSR/IMG_0646Large.jpg

Also remove the circlip holding the front of the selector rod to the transmission selector shaft and pull it out, noting which end is "forward."

Disassembly complete.

Quick comparo of new verus old parts:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Evo3_plus_DSSR/IMG_0647Large.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Evo3_plus_DSSR/IMG_0648Large.jpg

At this point you install the new shifter pivot (UUC calls it the ERK or 'effort reducing kit'):

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Evo3_plus_DSSR/IMG_0649Large.jpg

Install just like you removed the old one. view from the top:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Evo3_plus_DSSR/IMG_0653Large.jpg

Attach the DSSR to the selector shaft on the tranny:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Evo3_plus_DSSR/IMG_0650Large.jpg

Drop the new shifter arm into the new ERK'ed carrier:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Evo3_plus_DSSR/IMG_0654Large.jpg

From underneath:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Evo3_plus_DSSR/IMG_0656Large.jpg

Connect the shift lever to the DSSR:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Evo3_plus_DSSR/IMG_0658Large.jpg

Reassemble underneath:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Evo3_plus_DSSR/IMG_0659Large.jpg

Up top, reinstall the rubber boot:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Evo3_plus_DSSR/IMG_0661Large.jpg

Then reassemble the console, boot, knob, and you're done!

New throws:

Neutral:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Evo3_plus_DSSR/IMG_0663Large.jpg

3rd: (!!)

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Evo3_plus_DSSR/IMG_0664Large.jpg

4th: (!!!!!)

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Evo3_plus_DSSR/IMG_0665Large.jpg

Video of throw plus in gear play:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=np3YXzR6PrE

Overall an absolutely fantastic mod. I had an rogue octane in my 2nd E36 M and I loved every second of it so I had a hunch that I'd dig the results.

Throws are crazy small but still precise, you can really feel what you're doing. Effort is marginally higher but still acceptable.

I've got the knob at the "lowest" setting right now, I'll see how I like it and adjust later. Relatively simple task to adjust the height; just loosen the nut in the middle of the shift lever and pull up/push down to the desired height.

Anyway, enjoy the pics. Any questions, holler.

zj96sc

01-06-2012, 06:57 PM

Hmmm...looking over those pics it might be time for a new guibo.

If any of them are showing up rotated 90 to the right, I went back and fixed them in photobucket but it hasn't corrected for me yet. not sure what's up.

danewilson77

01-06-2012, 10:10 PM

Great writeup. If you wouldn't mind doing a copy/paste into a diy thread, that would be great.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

zj96sc

01-25-2012, 01:05 PM

Playing a little bit with lighting/subtle aesthetics. Will post up pics and thoughts as I install.

Waiting on the bench: "2500K" Optilux H7 P/N H71070702 for FTP inner hibeams. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLA-H71070702/

Just ordered: euro city light parts, all oem:

Housing - 2x 63 12 8 380 205
Plug - 2x 61 13 8 373 332
Wire Contacts (recommended on E46F) - 4x 61 13 0 007 256
Wire Contacts (listed as the ones required by Real OEM, figured I'd try both at <$2 ea) - 4x 61130006624

Plan right now is probably wire them either to the fog lights or to an ignition on +12V source.

Still debating: Projector fogs + 3000k HID

spencers

01-25-2012, 04:06 PM

The guibo looks fine, unless I'm missing something not pictured!

Smolck

01-25-2012, 04:52 PM

The guibo looks fine, unless I'm missing something not pictured!

There is a substantial crack right above the 5 on the part #. Guibo's are usually about a 100k mile item. Same for the center bearing.

OP, it looks like your cars pre-shifter throws were way longer than mine are, but mine is 100% stock. Weird.

danewilson77

01-25-2012, 05:08 PM

There is a substantial crack right above the 5 on the part #. Guibo's are usually about a 100k mile item. Same for the center bearing.

OP, it looks like your cars pre-shifter throws were way longer than mine are, but mine is 100% stock. Weird.

I dont think that's a crack.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

Smolck

01-25-2012, 05:15 PM

I dont think that's a crack.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

What is it then?

danewilson77

01-25-2012, 05:17 PM

What is it then?

It just looks like a moulding dimple to me. There's also one in the upper left hand portion of pic. Dunno... Maybe a crack.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

zj96sc

01-25-2012, 07:26 PM

this picture was the one that made me concerned. pretty obvious fatigue cracking of the rubber:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Evo3_plus_DSSR/IMG_0650Large.jpg

I think this image might be what you're referring to Smolck:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Evo3_plus_DSSR/IMG_0639Large.jpg

The thing above the 5 is not a crack, its part of the molding of the guibo. Like Dane mentioned, you can see another one further "clockwise" along the guibo in that view.

spencers

01-25-2012, 07:55 PM

Been interested in city lights for a while. Haven't ever found a proper DIY anywhere. Hope you can outline one whenever you get around to retrofitting them!

derbo

01-25-2012, 08:36 PM

nice thread! are you putting the parking lights still on with the city lights? Since Euro turn signals are not parking lights as well.

danewilson77

01-26-2012, 04:37 AM

zj96sc

01-28-2012, 03:36 PM

put those optilux H7s in.

new one beside my two old ones in the "case" the new ones came in:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0688Large.jpg

installed:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0690Large.jpg

FTP only:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0701Large.jpg

FTP w/ fogs (learned fogs stay on w/ FTP if only parking/fog lights are on):

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0700Large.jpg

xenon low + FTP (here you can see the fogs turned off...):

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0698Large.jpg

xenon low + fog:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0697Large.jpg

bixenon highbeams:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0699Large.jpg

as far as the bulbs are concerned, I'd say i'm medium happy. knew not to expect much from basically a painted halogen to create color, so in that respect its about what i thought i'd get.

so, hopefully with some recoding I can get halogen+xenon+fog highs, and once this coding is done upgrade to some HID fogs for some real 3000k umph.

zj96sc

01-30-2012, 07:57 PM

City lights parts delivered.

Using BMW Scanner 1.4, coded up some DRLs using dimmed flash to pass inners. Get to use my yeller bulbs :)

I am wavering on my decision to recode my LSZ full euro.

My options:

1) recode LSZ to have fogs on with high beams, and halogen + bixenon highbeam, and US sidemarker delete. install city lights wired into fog lights. this would give the following config:
pos 0 - dimmed FTP yellow
pos 1 - dimmed FTP yellow + yellow fog + city lights (city lights will likely be indistinguishable)
pos 2 - xenon low + yellow fog + city lights
pos 2/stalk fwd - bixenon high + yellow fog + full bright FTP yellow + city lights (again city lights will be indistinguishable)

2) recode LSZ to full euro and wire city lights per OEM, pins 44 and 45.
pos 0 - nothing
pos 1 - city lights + yellow fog
pos 2 - xenon low + yellow fog + city lights
pos 2/stalk fwd - bixenon high + yellow fog + full bright FTP yellow + city lights (city lights will be indistinguishable)

I'm leaning towards option 1. It is easier coding (for me) and easier to change back (for me)...and winds up largely functionally identical to the full region change. It also would save the trouble of wiring to pins on the LCM, running wires through the firewall, etc. Not impossible work....just always a pita. I've got some pigtails and a plan in my head that would make wiring the city lights to the fogs very simple and squeaky clean. I can also get 90% of the way to option 1 without coding, whereas option 2 is all coding.

So....what should I do?

spencers

01-30-2012, 08:01 PM

I say euro code the LCM and wire the city lights properly.

Then do a write up for peons like me to follow :)

zj96sc

01-30-2012, 08:32 PM

I feel like your answer has the wrong motivation :biggrin

In an other fun fact, i got a note from USPS today saying I had a package to pick up with unpaid postage in the amount of $60. The only missing package (besides my 3rd clutch stop) is my EDIABAS OBD2 cable from hong kong. I paid $19 plus $5.99 shipping on ebay/paypal, last thursday. Presumably the only way to get here that fast from hong kong is air freight, which happens to run about $60 on most websites.

So....i'll have to call usps tomorrow AM and see if that is indeed the package. If so I'm rejecting it and disputing the paypal charge. only $25 but still a TDM by the seller. Not sure which other vendor to get the cable from to avoid this - seems most of the ebay options are related (similar wording, photos, etc.)

Anyone out there have a cable they've successfully purchased and coded with?

spencers

01-30-2012, 08:50 PM

Well, I like it when people do things right... In my book, wiring it up to the LCM and going with euro code is the proper way to do it. But doing a write up is required ;)

I purchased a vagcom usb to obd2 cable from ecstuning a year ago for $45. Had to solder some pins together but it works great with inpa/ediabas, winkfp, ncsexpert, dis, and SSS.

zj96sc

01-30-2012, 09:26 PM

Yeah, I agree. My plans for the fog light tap are very clean though, no permanent alteration to anything factory. Only reason I'm even considering that route.

this guy?
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330Ci-M54_3.0l/ES6928/

assume you had to solder together 7 & 8?

zj96sc

02-08-2012, 02:29 PM

Alright, here's the plan for the next couple days:

-INPA/NCS with rewickered vagcom cable proof of concept

-100% oem city light retrofit. i've got everything I need, I think. bulbs, bulb holders, plugs, plug bushing contacts, LCM bushing contacts, wire, tech flex, heat shrink, solder. Going to have to find a clean way through the firewall and a nice ground to use.

-code LCM to euro specs

Also today I bought a motive bleeder and some super blue. Want to flush the fluid. Coming from Motive in CA though so it sadly probably will not be here in time for the weekend.

zj96sc

02-12-2012, 03:57 PM

Welp, plan got a little derailed. I ordered 16ga wire to do the city light retrofit and when I went to get started I was unhappy with that choice. The LCM bushing contacts and light socket pigtails are both 20ga and the mismatch just wasn't appropriate. I placed another order for some 18 gauge to match a little better. Once that comes in (probably tomorrow) I'll build up my harness for the city lights. Clean path into the electronics box and through the firewall identified, good grounds identified.

BUT - the cool news is that I was indeed able to code my car successfully with NCS Expert. I'm pretty stoked about this. I spent a good 10-15 hours reading and researching how to do this, plus another 3-4 getting the software and ECStuning vagcom cable to work. In the end of the day, all the preparation paid off - the process took 30 seconds to pull down my trace file, 10-15 minutes of fiddling inside to code what I wanted, and then another 30 seconds to write it to the car. Dangerously simple given the consequences...

Since I did not have the city lights installed properly, I did not code to euro specs as I did not want to risk bulb out notifications with my first go at it...but I did goof around with a little. Here's what I wound up with:

- double impulse hazards
- fogs on with high beams
- halogen FTP on with high beams
- US sidemarkers OFF.

Super happy with the functional and aesthetic improvement. The hazards were really just a 'for fun' thing...never use them anyway.

So, my configuration is now as follows ((+Fog) denotes fog switch on...):

position 0 - dimmed FTP as DRL
position 1 (+Fog) - dimmed FTP (+Fog)
position 2 stalk neutral (+Fog) - low beams (+Fog)
position 2 stalk forward (+Fog) - bixenon high + full bright FTP (+Fog)
position 2 stalk aft - low beams + full bright FTP (+Fog)

Waiting for the old P&S battery to recharge, pics and vid pending.

derbo

02-12-2012, 04:03 PM

i like the double impulse hazards and fogs on with highbeams!

spencers

02-12-2012, 04:14 PM

I did the double impulse as well :p it's fun!

derbo

02-12-2012, 04:27 PM

seriously. I want to get the double impulse now. Can I do this at the dealership? I have dealership tools. I dont think they have NCS Expert.

zj96sc

02-12-2012, 04:47 PM

position 1 with fog lights on:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0730Large.jpg

position 2 with high beams and fogs:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0731Large.jpg

this one came in way out of focus but I kept it because it shows the color of the fogs and highs better than the top picture:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_0732Large.jpg

Double impulse hazards:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JyQ2pjyUX6c

video of the lights on, just to see if it captured better:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZuFPjO9puA

danewilson77

02-12-2012, 05:14 PM

I have double impulse. Love it.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

derbo

02-12-2012, 05:48 PM

i want it lol.

zj96sc

02-13-2012, 05:58 AM

OK, so the wait list for this week:

- wire order to start city light harness

- blind spot mirrors

- motive bleeder + ATE

- little project to hopefully recreate the NLA motorsport WTCC golfball shift knob

danewilson77

02-13-2012, 06:25 AM

Love the plans. Love it when the week starts out like that.

zj96sc

02-15-2012, 04:52 PM

So, the BMW Motorsport golfball style shift knob from the WTCC e90 320 (P/N 25118277905) is NLA:

http://img2.netcarshow.com/BMW-320si_E90_WTCC_2006_800x600_wallpaper_08.jpg

I liked it and wanted one, so I decided to see what I could put together.

As it turns out the knob is pretty much identical to a Golf Mk2 shift knob. So I picked one up off of ebay, but it comes with a threaded bung to mount. We use the plastic clip style, so.....

begin with 1 old bmw shift knob. I used the zhp knob that came in the car, frayed leather and a trashed emblem insert. hacksawed that bish into 4 pieces and broke out the center tube it is molded around to end up with:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Golfball/IMG_0748Large.jpg

VW oem part:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Golfball/IMG_0752Large.jpg

the task at hand:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Golfball/IMG_0754Large.jpg

The BMW mount post OD is about 18/19mm:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Golfball/IMG_0757Large.jpg

Ball ID is like 12mm:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Golfball/IMG_0758Large.jpg

So...wrap it up in painters tape and a towel, clamp in the vice, and go to down with a 3/4" drill bit:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Golfball/IMG_0759Large.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Golfball/IMG_0760Large.jpg

At this point, I chucked the plastic mount post in my drill and held some emery cloth on it to give a nice "turned" appearance. Pretty happy with the result of that.

All I did at this point was fill the ball up with JB weld and jam the mount post in.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Golfball/IMG_0761Large.jpg

Let it dry overnight and threw it in this morning:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Golfball/IMG_0762Large.jpg

I put the boot over the plastic mount post and slapped a zip tie on it to keep the boot up. Shows a little bit of the mount post as you can see. Since I did the emery cloth bit it looks pretty good exposed.

I'm pretty happy - the feel is fantastic, grippy, very sporty. A weighted ZHP knob is obviously tough to beat, but this will be a nice change of pace every couple weeks.

Also on the doorstep when I got home:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Golfball/IMG_0763Large.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Golfball/IMG_0767Large.jpg

For my F250:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Golfball/IMG_0766Large.jpg

For the 4runner:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Golfball/IMG_0765Large.jpg

For the ZHP:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Golfball/IMG_0764Large.jpg

And 2x 1L of the good stuff...

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/Golfball/IMG_0768Large.jpg

zj96sc

02-16-2012, 08:13 AM

Mirrors are out for delivery. I love thebmwpartstore.

spencers

02-16-2012, 09:45 AM

I love thebmwpartstore.

+111111

az3579

02-17-2012, 05:39 AM

Wow, that golf ball mod took some work. Good job.

Sent from my iPhone 4S from Tapatalk

zj96sc

02-19-2012, 03:09 PM

Wow, that golf ball mod took some work. Good job.

Thanks. I'm really digging that thing, been having extra fun driving her around since putting it in. Placebo...maybe....but either way, I'm a fan.

other news:

VCG, grommets, spare vanos bolts, vanos gasket, beisan VANOS seals, rattle kit, and soft jaw liners on the way. time to pull my head out of the sand on how bad my vanos sounds.

got plugs waiting on the shelf too. between fresh plugs and a fresh vanos i'm hoping it wakes her up a little. should land right around a oil change too.

zj96sc

02-24-2012, 07:22 PM

VANOS effort begins.

Got started tonight with the easy stuff. Picked up a new work light to throw some sunlight on my work area. Also picked up the single greatest tool I think I've ever bought - the craftsman portable automotive service tray. Got the idea from a lone pic in Au2bahns's project thread, ordered it that night.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/vanos/IMG_0769Large.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/vanos/IMG_0770Large.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/vanos/IMG_0771Large.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/vanos/IMG_0772Large.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/vanos/IMG_0773Large.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/vanos/IMG_0774Large.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/vanos/IMG_0775Large.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/vanos/IMG_0776Large.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/vanos/IMG_0777Large.jpg

Hit it full speed in the morning.

zj96sc

02-25-2012, 10:16 AM

broke the valve cover. great start.

kayger12

02-25-2012, 11:31 AM

Ugh. Vcg plasticized to it?

Droid X. Tapatalk. Use it.

danewilson77

02-25-2012, 12:01 PM

broke the valve cover. great start.

Totally sux.

Not too terribly bad though....unless you have to get it at the dealer.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/11127512839/ES18478/

danewilson77

02-25-2012, 12:05 PM

Interesting site....though it doen't search all of the sites. Good idea for Cody's site.

http://www.bmwbuddy.com/z/part/11127512839-bmw-valve-cover#comment-1675

zj96sc

02-25-2012, 07:50 PM

I was kind of cruising through the teardown thinking that was the easy part, and missed one of the 4 center bolts. Thought I was just fighting the gasket stuck to the cover and head so i just kept prying. that little voice in my head was saying "this is too much force to be reasonable, what are you missing." naturally ignore, pry harder. eventually cracked the whole cover.

picked it up for $205 after tax at my closest dealer. He wouldn't match thebmwpartstore's $170, but he came to $192 off $230.

I made one trip to this dealership first thing in the AM to buy a case of bmw synth, then 30 minutes later to buy the valve cover, then again 15 minutes after that to get the correct valve cover. As I walked out the guy jokingly said "see you in a few." It was just one of those days.

I used pelican parts to get the P/N (was in a rush, didn't check realoem) and pelican incorrectly has the same p/n listed for 01-06. The P/N they list is the old coil pack style.

Stupid ass error, 200 bones down the drain. Still cheaper than shop labor so i'll just chalk it up to a learning experience to be more methodical.

Anyway, got the right part, got the vanos done, plugs swapped. just need to put the coils back in, tuck all the wires and o2 wiring, button it all back up. Wife hijacked me to attend a couple's shower (woo..) right as I got the valve cover back on. Vanos rebuild was actually pretty fun.

pics tomorrow.

zj96sc

02-26-2012, 07:27 PM

All done!

-VANOS rebuilt, seals and rings from beisan. Rattle is GONE! :)
-new NGK plugs
-Turkey baster power steering fluid swap, mobil 1 synth.
-oil change, 6.5 qts BMW 5w-30, mahle filter
-brake fluid flushed, right at 1 liter of ATE superblue.
-saggy c-pillar fixed
-foamgun no touch wash, p21s body shampoo + wool mitt hands on wash, deep wheel scrub, jamb scrub.

Aside from the valve cover casualty this went largely to plan and was a good weekend of wrenchin.

valve cover off:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/vanos/IMG_0779Large.jpg

15,000 mile change intervals much? :facepalm

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/vanos/IMG_0781Large.jpg

cover and vanos off:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/vanos/IMG_0790Large.jpg

vanos on the bench:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/vanos/IMG_0783Large.jpg

pistons out:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/vanos/IMG_0785Large.jpg

o-rings cut out:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/vanos/IMG_0784Large.jpg

exhaust blown apart:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/vanos/IMG_0786Large.jpg

intake blown apart:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/vanos/IMG_0787Large.jpg

Exhaust preload was to my satisfaction on first assembly. Intake i had to 'tighten' twice, then 'loosen' a half step.

The only thing I didn't like about Beisan's directions was that (unless I missed something) you basically end up reassembling the internals totally dry as it is necessary according to Beisan that the bearings be dry to assess preload. I didn't like the thought of those things spinning dry until oil filled it all back up so I dunked them until the bubbles stopped:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/vanos/IMG_0788Large.jpg

all buttoned up:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/vanos/IMG_0789Large.jpg

motive bleeder with the blue juice:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/vanos/IMG_0791Large.jpg

comin' blue at back right corner:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/vanos/IMG_0794Large.jpg

the end result from all 4...and no, that's not coke zero...:blink

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/vanos/IMG_0795Large.jpg

C-pillar sagginess:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/vanos/IMG_0801Large.jpg

slight bleed through of the adhesive....doh!

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/vanos/IMG_0802Large.jpg

all cleaned up:

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/vanos/IMG_0796Large.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/vanos/IMG_0797Large.jpg

Verdict? She runs FANTASTIC. Between the plugs and the VANOS I guess its hard to peg what did what, but I'm surprised at the increase in umph. Between 1k-3k there is a noticeable difference in torque. 80mph in 6th rolling into the throttle puts you in the seat, which it definitely did not do before. Nice quick starts, solid idle, good torque off the line - and most importantly, dead silent through 2xxx RPM. My VANOS rattle was BAD and it is completely gone.

And the added bonus?

Bitchin new 'badge of accomplishment' keychain!

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/vanos/IMG_0800Large.jpg

mLuMaN83

02-26-2012, 08:12 PM

That keyring is kickass ha.

zj96sc

02-27-2012, 10:00 AM

Also installed the blind spot mirrors, I'll have to remember to snag a couple pics. They took a lot of getting used to...the non-blind-spot portion of both is the "convex" mirror type (same as the original "objects are closer than they appear" passenger glass), plus the super convex blind spot portion. So in addition to the new blind spot feature, they already give you a substantially larger field of view out of the box.

I'm adapting slowly though and they definitely improve your SA and confidence. Worth the $, no doubt.

Also picked up a pair of "driving" gloves. I did a cursory bristle cleaning of my alcantara wheel and after only 6 months from brand new I was pretty grossed out by what came off. I try to be careful too, wash my hands before using etc.

So I hunted for a pair of very thin and lightweight leather gloves. Searched and searched and couldn't really find anything that struck my fancy aesthetically and functionally. I'm super warm natured so I needed something non-insulating, basically thermally transparent. While searching for hot WX gear I stumbled across an entire market of gloves called tactical gloves...as the name implies, gloves for police and military. Pretty self explanatory but I had never looked into them for this application.

Figured I'd check the mechanix offerings and found these guys:

Mechanix Original, Covert, Vent:

http://www.mechanix.com/uploads/store/products/114/thumbnails/MW12_MGV_55_H_400x500.jpg

http://www.mechanix.com/uploads/store/products/114/thumbnails/MW12_MGV_55_P_400x500.jpg

They're "covert" so they're tone on tone, and "vent" so the palm is perforated and the back is loose mesh. Single synthetic layer of leather for the palm.

Working out pretty good. Only throw them on for the commute, weekend stuff i'll just enjoy the alcantara. I'm debating doing a "trigger finger" mod to the pointer and thumb of the right hand to simplify cell/GPS use.

zj96sc

02-27-2012, 08:00 PM

Dammit. As much as I told myself it was time to cool the spending on the ZHP, the griot's polisher deal from DD was too much to pass up. Since it expired tomorrow....I convinced myself the savings were too good to ignore.

Picked up some odds and ends, the polisher, 2x polish pads, 2x finish pads, 1x wax pad, plus a 5L jug of sonax. tired of going through the bottles so i just got the jug.

derbo

02-27-2012, 10:01 PM

Loving this project. Keep up the good work!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

zj96sc

09-14-2012, 07:53 AM

Brained a pothole and bubbled a sidewall on my front right last Thursday. 1 year old Ventus V12s.

Pouted about it for a week and drove the truck instead, pulled myself together and got new fronts stretched on this AM.

Quick way to burn a couple hundred. Rears will probably be due by summer.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j234/paulkeith/cars/Silbergrau_ZHP/IMG_1012.jpg

zj96sc

10-16-2012, 08:24 PM

Poor man's Bluetooth!

My Captivate's audio jack went out about 2 weeks ago...mono sound only. Couple that with some aggravating force stop issues every time I plugged in the charger ever since I went to Samsung's Gingerbread update, I decided to see what I could do about both issues.

I rooted with CWM and got CM9 running - what a change. Like a breath of fresh air. Phone is snappy again, plus CM offers customization on practically everything. Important part of the story is it solved my force stops.

To get around the audio jack issue, I decided to try a poor man's approach to bluetooth audio for the ZHP - keep my BMW OEM Aux In and slap in a Britelink Bluetooth audio receiver:

http://www.amazon.com/Britelink-Bluetooth-Audio-Receiver-Portable/dp/B0059M4G9K

Big it is not:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-s_SqMC1B67Y/UH4vnjUlq2I/AAAAAAAAA5U/mBidLdy1SX8/w716-h537-p-k/IMG_1060.JPG

In action:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=avQdk_CcFPc

I'm floored with the audio quality....I was expecting something pretty weak that would at least be better than mono, but it is equivalent/if not better than I was getting out of the headphone jack.

Downsides:
- Will have to be recharged every ~12 hours of use, but it charges via an included USB cord that I can plug into the extra USB port on my cell phone 12v charger.
- The power button hold time is pretty annoying - I think around 8 seconds or so. I'm sure this part of it will get old.

Upsides:
- <$60 to get bluetooth audio in your e46. BMW's OEM Aux In is $30, this Britelink is $28.
- no more cords in the cockpit
- turns itself off after no paired device for 5 minutes

I'll need to work out a clean installation that gives access to the power button.

Full bause would be the same product that is powered by and turns itself on with a +12v signal.

Long story short, cleans up some clutter in the cockpit and will hopefully scratch that GSIII itch for a few more months .

zj96sc

10-21-2012, 06:59 PM

Well, the OEM (Exide, 61216946333) battery finally kicked the bucket. I guess you can't really get mad at 7 years and 105,000 miles out of a battery.

For replacement I considered the Duralast 49DL, Duralast 94R-DLG, the Autocraft 94RH7 and OEM.

The 49DL seems pretty go-to across the forum communities (higher CCA, lower price), and though not listed as a match it will fit if the length spacer is removed (its 1" and change longer).

The 49DL:
850CCA
155min RC
2 year warranty
43.04lbs
$109.99 + core

The 94R-DLG:
790CCA
140min RC
8 year warranty, 3 year free replacement
47.41lbs
$165.99 + core

The 94RH7:
765CCA
140min RC
7/3 warranty
47lbs
$166.99

OEM is actually affordable ($114 or $150 from your favorite parts dealers for the douglas and exide, respectively) but shipping won't work so you're stuck with local dealer prices which are of course garbage.

Also considered walmart but didn't really see anything to sway me.

Unfortunately the 49DL's warranty seems to have recently dropped from 7 years or thereabouts to 2 years. I also had a friend (GT172I) have one go completely bad after 2 years. That was enough to dissuade me.

Between the 94R-DLG and the 94RH7, both are made by johnson controls (says the internet) and are direct swap replacements - even the vent tube plugs right in.

I've run autocraft batteries in my 7.3L for a few years and have been happy with them - plus Advance was having a 20% off sale so I wound up paying $133. Decision made. New one has a 10/12 date sticker so it seems to be pretty fresh. Incidentally, the guy told me they sold NINE of those batteries today. There was an X5 in the parking lot getting a new battery - counter guy said the guy doing that swap actually used the battery pulled from stock for me.

No pics of the swap - pretty straightforward. My car starts now - pretty fancy.

danewilson77

10-22-2012, 04:14 AM

Great info. Copied and pasted into a "Battery" thread. Thanks

zj96sc

10-24-2012, 08:22 PM

not really ZHP related but dug up these old photos today.....nostalgia

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-L2r2NjEz02Y/UIioTCxQV0I/AAAAAAAAEXQ/smiQPFa9cz8/w683-h512-p-k/IMG_0721.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Mu30fK4k-6s/UIioTk0dpJI/AAAAAAAAEXY/l1zSA3h5XCo/w338-h253-n-k/IMG_0723.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fQkcJLDDIkM/UIioUw5ToYI/AAAAAAAAEXg/eTBbB8f_SY8/w338-h253-n-k/IMG_0997.JPG

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Ung95_EK4ZA/UIioYfrgEkI/AAAAAAAAEYA/cKelj00uIA0/w347-h260-n-k/m3coupe%2B002.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-FDbOIDrKND0/UIioZ649CLI/AAAAAAAAEYI/aFZ30LGEaGQ/w347-h260-n-k/m3coupe7.jpg

miss these girls. Ah well!

MiniD

10-25-2012, 04:35 AM

You had an estroil?! So awesome man. Good news, I think I have sold my M!

zj96sc

10-25-2012, 05:32 AM

Yup. Estoril on dove vaders, 65000 mile 1 owner. She was a cherry.

zj96sc

11-05-2012, 05:14 PM

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-CcT2WMVN_BE/UJhQkAVaW_I/AAAAAAAAEl0/rtUS0Vi1Gbk/s900/IMG_20121105_184907.jpg

enough for the 7.3 f/r diffs and ZHP tranny+diff.

Do work!

zj96sc

11-05-2012, 05:26 PM

Shot of the interior as of Nov '11 - alcantara tri-stitch and golfball swapped for m wheel and zhp knob:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-gLaD8go6TWg/UJbkRMX0BII/AAAAAAAAElY/e7SbOrSXguA/s800/IMG_20121104_165053.jpg

danewilson77

11-05-2012, 05:28 PM

Looks great.

Sent from Williamsburg, VA USA

zj96sc

11-24-2012, 09:06 PM

Having a gearhead dad to visit over thanksgiving has its perks:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-x0YemJoR2Sk/UK5pUL2UsKI/AAAAAAAAEpU/wsj3bGcOduw/s900/IMG_20121122_123618.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-v0qi0ei293c/UK5pdQWQsjI/AAAAAAAAEpc/CYVB5N41biI/s900/IMG_20121122_123527.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-G5Zg4mVHde4/UK5pmfephSI/AAAAAAAAEpk/aiWLz6-cBFE/s900/IMG_20121122_123539.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lZ15hxiE_7g/UK5pwEYbCkI/AAAAAAAAEps/PH2TxAkW2JA/s900/IMG_20121122_123553.jpg

Tranny is now filled with a 50/50 mix of Redline MTL and D4, diff is now filled with Redline 75w90.

zj96sc

11-20-2016, 08:28 AM

hey dudes! 4 years no talk. hope all is well.

still racking miles on the ZHP. no mods of any interest or significance in these 4 years. I think one window regulator in that time.

had a growing issue of fogged windows after hot days, distinct smell of R134, and wet front pax carpet.

after some investigation i think i had intermingled issues; checked all the usual culprits (sunroof drain tubes, windshield seal, cowl) and found a loose passenger vapor barrier that i resealed - dehumidified the wet interior:

http://i.imgur.com/JmeuJjn.jpg

did not however resolve the refrigerant smell. i've worked with A/C enough that i was pretty sure it was R134 - but the A/C still worked and could never get a positive sniff with my refrigerant detector.

car was starting to give me headaches after 20-30 min so i took a leap of faith and went after the evaporator. i got lucky - found a leak! the hvac box design causes the evaporator to rub on the casing. i guess 10 years of this was enough and it wore through.

http://i.imgur.com/sivruN6.jpg

disassembly was significant:

http://i.imgur.com/24TUEuh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/bvBSsbv.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/YxbWILQ.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/QgXZy2V.jpg

reassembly is reverse of disassembly? put it all back together with BMW or OEM parts, mostly hella/behr.

-- new evaporator
-- new expansion valve
-- new dryer
-- heater core while i was in there
-- all the clips and plastic bits i broke on the way in and out

recharged by weight to spec, A/C is icy cold and the smell is finally gone. hooray!

after a few weeks torn apart i decided to clean her up. pulled of all the moldings and taped everything else - claybar, followed with griots polisher with klasse AIO (polish + glaze), then P21s carnuba on top. plus a new roundel on the hood :D

4 years later i still take potato pictures but the results are good (sharp eyes might spy another bavarian garage mate):

http://i.imgur.com/l38aklT.jpg

i've spent the last 2-3 years really focusing my F-250 at the expense of the ZHP. this leaves some catching up to do, areas of focus over the next few weeks:

Interior refresh:
-- A / B / C pillars have all sagged out
-- cup holders, center console, and arm rest are past it and due for replacement
-- time for a fresh zhp knob

Exterior:
-- fresh black kidneys (khoalty ones cracked)

Suspension/tires:
-- debating some 17x8.5 ARC 8s
-- FCABs (had em in a box since purchase) and RTABs

any questions on the work above let me know. been fun the last few days catching up on everyone's build threads. glad the forum is still going strong.

Paul

anandoc

11-20-2016, 11:52 AM

The evap replacement is crazy. Makes me shudder thinking if I ever develop an evap leak.

Vas

11-20-2016, 12:00 PM

Glad to hear you still own it

ELCID86

11-20-2016, 12:13 PM

Wow. Impressive.

---
"ZHP is a garbage option anyway- just some cosmetic upgrades with a different cam and diff to claw back some of the performance lost fitting those hideous and heavy wheels. Any 330 with a 3.46 diff will smoke a ZHP every time. The whole Mafia thing reeks of childish behavior." - anonymous E46 fanatic

fredo

11-20-2016, 12:17 PM

Car keeps looking good. How many miles on the clock ?

GotZHP

11-20-2016, 12:29 PM

Damn, really like how good your paint came out. I am going to have to have some show me how to properly clean and freshen up a car. Cali drought has leftmy car with no wash in months :(

theothersawyer

11-20-2016, 12:42 PM

That looks like quite the project! Car is looking good though!

zj96sc

11-20-2016, 01:26 PM

thanks all.

mileage at 123k, purchased at 92k in 2011, so surprisingly only about 30k in 5 years. quite a bit lower than i thought. wife's car pulls most road trip duty and also split my mileage on the F250....hmm.

thanks GotZHP. Pleased with the polisher results. Lots of tutorials out there between autogeek, detailersdomain, and others. takes a little homework but really changes the game over hand waxing.

danewilson77

11-20-2016, 03:47 PM

Welcome back. Good work.

Sent by the Pixel XL

zj96sc

12-04-2016, 01:05 PM

time for a new belt?

http://i.imgur.com/bNx5fzN.jpg

so my armrest has looked like this since purchase:

http://i.imgur.com/Z1NLivx.jpg

Didn't want alcantara for a frequent skin contact item...or to spend the hundreds for an OEM replacement...so decided to try an ebay replacement cover. got this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/131402195363

from 'kar-designers' on ebay. $32.99 shipped, real leather. fit is OK. the cover is about half a cm too wide which requires a lot of pulling and tucking to get the surface taught. also results in the seams not sitting in the channels cut in the foam rubber padding. If they shrunk their pattern about 5% in all dimensions and flattened their seams to where it really had to be stretched onto the padding the fit would improve significantly IMO.

disassembly:

http://i.imgur.com/XXpUkgf.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/v79YKAL.jpg

old cover off:

http://i.imgur.com/eOLxm01.jpg

new cover test fit:

http://i.imgur.com/VC0Mx5n.jpg

here you can see how the cover is too wide - this seam should sit up higher on the cutout for the ebrake handle. to get it right you have to pull the seam quite a ways down.

http://i.imgur.com/WwGvemJ.jpg

new cover going on for real:

http://i.imgur.com/wP2QPRQ.jpg

done, came out looking ok:

http://i.imgur.com/NbOOP2A.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/1glrnvg.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ViqZIB1.jpg

but the devil is always in the details :facepalm:

http://i.imgur.com/AGdL9Sv.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/dQ5KkWq.jpg

probably my biggest screwup, trimmed up too far on this corner not realizing how much the plastic trim left exposed:

http://i.imgur.com/RtxmlZp.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/DKUof6Q.jpg

back in - looks like its time for another round of leatherique on my driver's bolsters.

http://i.imgur.com/8ZGtzoK.jpg

......so call me OK satisfied. Worth the $32 i spent and way better than the completely destroyed original. :dunno

BMWCurves

12-04-2016, 01:12 PM

Really doesn't look that bad at all! Nice work.

danewilson77

12-04-2016, 02:15 PM

holyc0w

12-04-2016, 04:38 PM

Yeah, that looks very nice.

Even the stock one doesn't look perfect.

28368

I'm guessing that's original.

Sockethead

12-04-2016, 05:00 PM

Yea, looks pretty damn to me too!

zj96sc

12-18-2016, 08:08 PM

picked up a bimmian cell phone bracket - and caseco 360 mount - based on prevailing popular opinion here and on E46F. found the bimmian bracket fit to be OK, but obviously built for larger cradle style holders. decided to try to adapt it a bit for use with the caseco.

http://i.imgur.com/ac3rlv8.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/DnTleH4.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/vTLQdK0.jpg

after a quick game of cutty-weldy - still suck at painting:

http://i.imgur.com/Tl92fu3.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/9mFfw8S.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/qvVcYBh.jpg

trusty S4 still getting the job done:

http://i.imgur.com/PsCUqr5.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/PHXh959.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/c563atU.jpg

slater

12-19-2016, 06:03 AM

that's actually a great idea - modifying the panavise mount like that - it really cuts down on the passenger-side interference.

i love the caseco products - i bought two of their vent mounts (i don't like the idea of sticking stuff to the dash and i didn't think about the route you took), and a mil-spec case for my iPhone SE. they've been absolutely superb. i put one mount in the montero and one in my sedan, and put a magnet mount on the back of mine and my wife's iPhones. she told me it was stupid at first but yesterday she thanked me for getting them because she uses it all the time now. ;)

zj96sc

12-31-2016, 02:55 PM

lingering issue i hadn't gotten around to - broke the passenger side airbag retaining clip when doing the condenser. connector isn't available anymore from BMW except as a part of a $70 airbag repair harness.

scoured ebay and found one in latvia (yes latvia) for $7. took about 15 days to get here but was exactly the right part.

http://i.imgur.com/Qjykhku.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/eiijJGA.jpg

re-pinning from old to new:

http://i.imgur.com/5ycxWqd.jpg

done!

http://i.imgur.com/dzUr0Cg.jpg

theothersawyer

12-31-2016, 11:16 PM

Great work! Where in Atlanta are you?

zj96sc

03-11-2020, 06:26 AM

i still exist. guess i swing around every 3-4 years?
zhp still pounding pavement.
working a headliner refurb and A/B/C pillars. pics to follow...

located OTP north.

Oli77

03-11-2020, 04:51 PM

:thumbsup

zj96sc

03-15-2020, 11:32 AM

hello community!

since i was last here, we've added two munchkins to the roster, picked up a subaru outback for the wife, and i replaced my extended cab 7.3 with a crew cab 7.3.

two kids took pretty much any wrench time, and the crew cab 7.3 took what remained to get it fitted and sorted. lots of ignored maintenance and upkeep, plus an old man emu suspension kit.

new truck, and another new hobby i dont have time for strapped to the back:

https://i.imgur.com/mJS9wuHh.jpg

in that time, the zhp has been a rock solid daily/commuter. still love the car. was getting a little threadbare from the use, headliner especially.

still cleans up nice:

https://i.imgur.com/WuRbrbQh.jpg

it needed a good scrub and fresh headliner,

anyway, on to the pics:

https://i.imgur.com/w5tWVPxh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/iFcNaTkh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/A8D8UTxh.jpg

gross!

https://i.imgur.com/lv4f1kVh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Lsi6qeUh.jpg

pull drivers seat and headliner comes out back left:

https://i.imgur.com/3u8M4nXh.jpg

saggy saggy:

https://i.imgur.com/1nyAWiEh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/jyhE5LEh.jpg

this part sucked every bit as bad as you think it did:

https://i.imgur.com/ab3uA8gh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/To8hhY6h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/0mtWm5zh.jpg

squeaky clean and blown with compressed air:

https://i.imgur.com/lypkU7Xh.jpg

3yd of headliner fabric from joanns, $49. only needed 2, coulda done it for $30. considered alcanatara, but $50 vs $500 kept me on this route.

https://i.imgur.com/QZZjZY9h.jpg

3M headliner adhesive, $22/can, DO NOT use 3M 77.

https://i.imgur.com/TwT4Z9ih.jpg

apply glue heavily to both sides, allow to tack, then start pressing:

https://i.imgur.com/f8i9e0Bh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/HTNuJjNh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/sLEWP3Yh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/2luVtEHh.jpg

done. i shot glue over the edge right into the center of the headliner. i am an idiot. i am an idiot. i am an idiot.

https://i.imgur.com/ZF0uJjVh.jpg

barrff...embarrasing

https://i.imgur.com/cq7sQhvh.jpg

done done:

https://i.imgur.com/GDpbs8Oh.jpg

am waiting on an order from ECS to put a ribbon on it: 2x C pillars, brake light cover, headrest guide, sunroof switch panel, rear lower seat sill panel, and a handful of trim clips and bits and bobs. everything was pretty brittle coming apart. it really needs A and B pillars, but they look decent enough with the fabric pulled off. and a rear decklid, but i'm not spending $400 on that.

anyway, comments or questions welcome.

PK