OverHaul on different areas, Here's my list

[MafiaAmor]

So I'm doing a variety of things to my car.

It's a 2002 325i Auto(I know...lol)

I was told that in the future of the BMW that you might have to overhaul a few things.

First off the reasons for the overhaul :

1. Car kind of rumbles at a stop, little shakey.
2. Coolant light pops on and off frequently, no signs of coolant loss, but I hate the light.
3. When I'm going about 20 mphs my rps seem to wave up and down just a bit, I don't know the cause but I heard it's something to do with the idler pulleys and or sensors.
4. I have an intake leak that sounds like my car is trying to be turbo'd, it whistles at the end, I have a feeling it's the lower intake boot, correct me if I'm wrong.
5. I hit 142k and this baby needs a new diaper!!!


Item's I have purchased:
Level 1 Coolant Kit
http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/163626_x600.jpg
Radiator
http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/191085_x600.jpg
CCV or Oil Separator Valve
http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/20895_x600.jpg

Item's I think I will also need, again correct me if I'm wrong :
Accessory Belt
http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/22633_x600.jpg
AC Belt(Figure why not since I'm in there)
http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/22530_x600.jpg
Idler Pulley /w dust caps
http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/12650_x600.jpg
http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/30640_x600.jpg
This is the AutoTranny Thermo(I don't think this came with the kit, but I heard I should replace this as well.)
http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/16323_x600.jpg


Things I've been trying to find, but can't really pin point:
-Idle sensors(I hope I'm right?)
-Spark Plugs(I vaguely remember NBK ebrkqup, or something like that,Help please)
-I heard Seafoam is a smart idea in some cases for smoother idle,
-Lower intake boot, I been trying to find, but I don't know how to know if that's where the whistle is coming from, I don't trip any codes :facepalm.
-Tensioner, I do not know which one is usually recommended to be replaced.
-Tranny Fllush
-New Brake Fluid
-Possibly 02 sensors?


I am getting the first of the parts on Thursday in UPS, should I wait before I have it all put on and gather the rest or just go ahead and put it on?

I need all the advice I can get.

If I am missing anything or need to be looking in different areas please let me know.

Thanks guys!!!!!

[danewilson77]

-Idle sensors(I hope I'm right?) Do you mean Idle Control Valve?Camshaft Position Sensors?
-Spark Plugs(I vaguely remember NBK ebrkqup, or something like that,Help please) NGK bkr6equp
-I heard Seafoam is a smart idea in some cases for smoother idle, Yes-Walmart
-Lower intake boot, I been trying to find, but I don't know how to know if that's where the whistle is coming from, I don't trip any codes .
-Tensioner, I do not know which one is usually recommended to be replaced. Replace both tensioners and the deflection pulley
-Tranny Fllush, You can swap out fluid, but won't be able to DIY flush. Need the sticker on side of your tranny.
-New Brake Fluid - I used super blue race fluid. I think theres better stuff out there though.
-Possibly 02 sensors? Get O2 sensors off of Amazon

[telijah]

You've gotten most covered pretty well, here are my thoughts:

- Radiator is one of the only items that seems to last on the cooling systems of these cars, but if you've already ordered, no problem to go ahead and replace
- For the tension pulley, you'll need to look and see if you have the hydraulic or mechanical.
- Spark Plugs: NGK BKR6EQUP
- I'd hold off on the tranny fluid until you've done all the other maintenance to see if it is really needed.
- Not sure what you mean by idle sensors, but if you're having problems with RPMs surging at idle, check the Idle air Control Valve (ICV).
- For the whistling, you'll just need to carefully inspect the plumbing for cracks. Dane Wilson has a photo of the common failure point under #9 here: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?1830-BMW-E46-ZHP-DIY-and-Preventative-maintenance

[MafiaAmor]

-Idle sensors(I hope I'm right?) Do you mean Idle Control Valve?Camshaft Position Sensors?
-Spark Plugs(I vaguely remember NBK ebrkqup, or something like that,Help please) NGK bkr6equp
-I heard Seafoam is a smart idea in some cases for smoother idle, Yes-Walmart
-Lower intake boot, I been trying to find, but I don't know how to know if that's where the whistle is coming from, I don't trip any codes .
-Tensioner, I do not know which one is usually recommended to be replaced. Replace both tensioners and the deflection pulley
-Tranny Fllush, You can swap out fluid, but won't be able to DIY flush. Need the sticker on side of your tranny.
-New Brake Fluid - I used super blue race fluid. I think theres better stuff out there though.
-Possibly 02 sensors? Get O2 sensors off of Amazon


You've gotten most covered pretty well, here are my thoughts:

- Radiator is one of the only items that seems to last on the cooling systems of these cars, but if you've already ordered, no problem to go ahead and replace
- For the tension pulley, you'll need to look and see if you have the hydraulic or mechanical.
- Spark Plugs: NGK BKR6EQUP
- I'd hold off on the tranny fluid until you've done all the other maintenance to see if it is really needed.
- Not sure what you mean by idle sensors, but if you're having problems with RPMs surging at idle, check the Idle air Control Valve (ICV).
- For the whistling, you'll just need to carefully inspect the plumbing for cracks. Dane Wilson has a photo of the common failure point under #9 here: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?1830-BMW-E46-ZHP-DIY-and-Preventative-maintenance

NGK bkr6equp - Thanks wrote that down.
And yes the idle control valve!!! I was trying to remember what that was referred to as.
Seafoam just goes straight into the vacuum right?
Both Tensioners?Ones hydraulic and ones mechanical, which one is correct? http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-325i-M54_2.5l/Engine/Drive_Belts/2

I believe this is the right LIB(lower intake boot)
http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/19476_x600.jpg

Amazon sells O2 sensors? Never knew that.(I don't know which one is the correct one! Never changed these before!)

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=e46+02+sensor&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Ae46+02+sensor&ajr=0



And thanks for the link! That picture made it really helpful! I'm going to run outside work and check it right now since I'm all finished for the day.

Appreciating all the help fellas!

[danewilson77]

Seafoam is....

1/3 can in the intake VIA the brake booster line.

1/3 can in gas tank.

1/3 can in crankcase for 10 to 20 miles...then change oil.

Clean the icv with car cleaner, and inspect disa when doin all this.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

[aurelius]

I recently sold some E30 stuff to a guy who also has an '02 325i with higher mileage and he told me the vanos rehab worked wonders for his motor.

You might consider that while doing spark plugs. You should also replace valve cover gasket and the 15 related nut seals at that time in order to avoid future duplication of labor.

Much more info at DrVanos.com & beisansystems.com

[Hermes]

I recently sold some E30 stuff to a guy who also has an '02 325i with higher mileage and he told me the vanos rehab worked wonders for his motor.

You might consider that while doing spark plugs. You should also replace valve cover gasket and the 15 related nut seals at that time in order to avoid future duplication of labor.

Much more info at DrVanos.com & beisansystems.com

+1



1. Car kind of rumbles at a stop, little shakey.


I've had that happen... should def do VANOS with that many miles on the clock. I only got the seals, no rattle kit

[Newjack]

Will redoing the seals not fix the rattle? The rattle kit seemed really expensive (it was something like $200 when I checked)

Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk

[Hermes]

Seals fix the idle hiccup, rattle kit is literally what it says - to fix a rattling noise which I dont have so I didn't get it

[Newjack]

Seals fix the idle hiccup, rattle kit is literally what it says - to fix a rattling noise which I dont have so I didn't get it

Oh ok. Is the Dr. Vanos kit the only way to fix the rattle noise? More importantly, does.the rattle cause.any damage? Or is it bad to be left unfixed?

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[danewilson77]

Will redoing the seals not fix the rattle? The rattle kit seemed really expensive (it was something like $200 when I checked)

Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk

Anti-rattle kit is $60

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[danewilson77]

Oh ok. Is the Dr. Vanos kit the only way to fix the rattle noise? More importantly, does.the rattle cause.any damage? Or is it bad to be left unfixed?

Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk

No. It's a very easy 4-6 hour DIY.

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[kayger12]

Oh ok. Is the Dr. Vanos kit the only way to fix the rattle noise? More importantly, does.the rattle cause.any damage? Or is it bad to be left unfixed?

Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk

Dr Vanos kit is one way. Beisan anti-rattle kit is another.

Rattle doesn't cause any damage- just annoying. Ask me how I know...

Droid X. Tapatalk. Use it.

[Newjack]

Alright cool. Thanks guys. Learn something new everyday

Sent from my VS910 4G using Tapatalk

[MafiaAmor]

Man.....I'm probably gonna pay someone to do the vanos. That looks real crazy in there, I've never read much about it and from pictures it looks like a slight move can ruin something. Or am I just being dramatic?

[danewilson77]

Man.....I'm probably gonna pay someone to do the vanos. That looks real crazy in there, I've never read much about it and from pictures it looks like a slight move can ruin something. Or am I just being dramatic?

Where do you live?

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[Newjack]

Where do you live?

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Why don't you take a seat over there. :chrishansen

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[MafiaAmor]

Wichita, Kansas. Why do you ask Dane?

[Marcus-SanDiego]

Most likely checking to see if any other Mafia members live near you (and who can help you with the Vanos install).

[danewilson77]

Most likely checking to see if any other Mafia members live near you (and who can help you with the Vanos install).

You got it Boss.

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[Hornung418]

Coming from no prior mechanical experience, I was able to do my VANOS with no issues this past December. Car is totally different. If you can follow directions and turn a ratchet, you can do this job while taking your time. Get to know your M54B25 on a more personal level. If you want a supervisor, I'm sure there are some Mafioso in the region that would enjoy helping you out.

[MafiaAmor]

I wish! My friends have bmws but they're not enthusiastic about them at all. The Wichita car scene isn't very bright. It lacks in car taste very bad.


Its a chill state, if you're a retiree.

[Mtnman]

I did my vanos and anti rattle at Dane's house at our first meet...the main supervision i had was his 17 year old son. It was intimidating (so im happy JW was there) but it was really a step by step process. It was not hard. it just took a long time.

[MafiaAmor]

Should I do this while I'm doing everything else or should I wait and do it when everything else is done. And man, if I didn't work so much Id drive to you guys. Thanks for the tips

[kayger12]

I did my vanos and anti rattle at Dane's house at our first meet, and also made a kick-ass london broil...the main supervision i had was his 17 year old son. It was intimidating (so im happy JW was there) but it was really a step by step process. It was not hard. it just took a long time.

Fixed.


Droid X. Tapatalk. Use it.

[danewilson77]

Fixed.


Droid X. Tapatalk. Use it.

Lold

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[aurelius]

Should I do this while I'm doing everything else or should I wait and do it when everything else is done?

Spark plugs and valve cover gasket (11-12-0-030-496) will come out when you do the VANOS. Therefore, do those items at that time. Don't forget the 15 nut seals (11-12-1-437-395).

As I recall, DrVanos is a bit more expensive but they do the internal seals & o-ring work that will otherwise require tools you probably don't already have. They will sell on an exchange basis (refundable core charge) or if you can swing the down time, they'll send your actual VANOS unit back to you.

See their installation instructions here:

http://drvanos.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=2&Itemid=3#

[MafiaAmor]

Fixed.


Droid X. Tapatalk. Use it.

What's a London Broil? Sounds amazing! Lol.


Spark plugs and valve cover gasket (11-12-0-030-496) will come out when you do the VANOS. Therefore, do those items at that time. Don't forget the 15 nut seals (11-12-1-437-395).

As I recall, DrVanos is a bit more expensive but they do the internal seals & o-ring work that will otherwise require tools you probably don't already have. They will sell on an exchange basis (refundable core charge) or if you can swing the down time, they'll send your actual VANOS unit back to you.

See their installation instructions here:

http://drvanos.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=2&Itemid=3#


Is that the recommended one I should buy? If so I will order it here in a week or two. I just want to be positive, so I don't spend 400 on the wrong thing!


15 nut seals, wow, didn't know there were that many.

Here's what I got today at my jobs shipping dock.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g366/Three25i/2011-09-15_09-31-53_378.jpg
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g366/Three25i/2011-09-15_09-38-34_547.jpg
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g366/Three25i/2011-09-15_09-38-22_319.jpg
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g366/Three25i/2011-09-15_09-34-23_59.jpg
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g366/Three25i/2011-09-15_09-41-48_122.jpg

[MafiaAmor]

Now I still need to order the correct AT Thermostat and I think my coolant overhaul will be complete.

I know I need to order an intake boot, but I don't think my lower one is leaking, I can't seem to find any tears in it.

[aurelius]

To answer your questions in post 28:

Your net cost @ DrVanos is $250 after you send your worn unit to them for the $150 core charge refund.

If you don't need the anti-rattle kit, you can get the seals & o-rings from Beisan for $60 but you will do more work and will need more tools. Definitely read the Beisan installation procedure (http://www.beisansystems.com/procedures/vanos_procedure.htm) before you decide which way to go.

Note that with an auto trans, you will also need the mechanical fan removal tools, regardless of whether you go with DrVanos or Beisan. Note: you'll also need to remove the fan -- and will therefore need the fan removal tools -- prior to installing the cooling system parts you bought. You will see more detail when you click on the link above.

[danewilson77]

If you diy....it will cost you $120 for just doing the seals vice $250. It would cost you about $180 to diy the seals and anti-rattle kit.

You don't need the mechanical fan removal tool as a 36mm? wrench serves this purpose perfectly.

[Hermes]

You don't need the mechanical fan removal tool as a 36mm? wrench serves this purpose perfectly.

ummm DW... What do you mean? I thought you need the tool if you have the mech fan (opposed to the elec fan)

[danewilson77]

ummm DW... What do you mean? I thought you need the tool if you have the mech fan (opposed to the elec fan)

This is how I have been able to do every auto.....

http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/image007-2.jpg

http://www.beisansystems.com/procedures/e46_mechanical_fan_procedure.htm

[Hermes]

I assumed you have to do that but what is the tool for then?

[kayger12]

I assumed you have to do that but what is the tool for then?

The tool is a counter-holder that locks the water pump pulley in place while you wrench on the fan nut.

Droid X. Tapatalk. Use it.

[Hermes]

Got it

[danewilson77]

A swift "smack" is key in using the wrench/hammer method.

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[aurelius]

Here's a nice 32mm wrench for the fan clutch, the other end of which is 36mm and fits the oil filter housing:

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES240950/

NOTE: mechanical engine cooling fan & fan clutch removal applies only to E46 with automatic transmission. Manual-trans models have an electric fan that comes out easily.

The point in removing either type of fan being that you need to make some room when working on the front of the motor (cooling parts, vanos, etc.).

[MafiaAmor]

Kk so I started taking everything off. Im driving my explorer for a few days, feels nice to drive high up sometimes, but I noticed last night my heater wasn't working like it should. Its not hot even when its warmed up. Think its the coil? Or replacing the new thermostats might help?

[danewilson77]

Could be the heater valve.

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[aurelius]

Could be the heater valve.

FWIW, my heater valve started acting up at under 60k miles. It's an easy replacement. Last I checked it was $62 + shpg HERE (http://www.bmwmercedesparts.com/partlocator/). Part number 64 11 8 369 805.

As for your belt tensioner questions:

As noted in post #3, you will have to determine which style tensioner your car has on the serpentine/accessory belt. You can save about 40 bucks by buying the pulley wheel only but there are several options and things to consider when dealing with this belt tensioner.

See notes 1 & 2 toward the end of my cooling system overhaul document for more specifics. CLICK HERE (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/17676561/BMW%20docs/BMW%20E46%20Cooling%20System%20Rehab.rtf) to download.

[MafiaAmor]

Think the heater valve is the case, you have the part number? If not I can go search for it.

[MafiaAmor]

Sorry justvread that message ^

[danewilson77]

Is it Piece 2?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=ET37&mospid=47720&btnr=64_0890&hg=64&fg=18

From one of our our affiliate advertisers:

Part No.: W0133-1609779 (search that number when you get to the site)

http://www.dpbolvw.net/click-4193730-10701773,

You can get to the list of our advertisers, here...

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?229-List-of-Affiliate-Advertisers-at-ZHP-Mafia

[MafiaAmor]

Here's my new updated parts list I order.....
http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff479/MafiaAmor/2002%20e46%20325i%20Sport/order2.jpg


Also grabbed this since ECS didn't have it in stock.

11-28-1-706-545

[danewilson77]

OK......so.....your only replacing the pullies and not the tensioners?

You should be replacing the water pump tensioner and pulley. The AC tensioner and pulley, and the idler/deflection pulley. The belts as well.

I thought you were doing coolant overhaul? Where is the tank, upper and lower hoses, etc....?

[MafiaAmor]

My buddy whose helping me said that we'll go to the dealership and get the tensioners after we take them off, so we can figure out whether it's mechanical or a hydraulic.

My coolant overhaul I posted on the first post, with the kit and all of that.

I have both the belts....

I have the pulleys, so do I need this whole assembly if I do have a mechanical?
http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/155635_x600.jpg

And if it's hydraulic this one?
http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/16031_x600.jpg

This is the A/C tensioner,

http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/151545_x600.jpg

How many tensioners are their, I thought there was only 2?

[MafiaAmor]

Oh top and bottom are the same arent they?

[danewilson77]

LOL.....both tensioner CAN be mechanical. I recommend you just get the Hydraulic conversion kit...and convert over.

[aurelius]

I highly recommend you find out which tensioner you have prior to doing all of this. Dealer pricing will be a killer. It's tough but not impossible to tell which one you have w/o removing anything. Shoot some pics and post em here if you have doubts.

It seems you have ordered the pulley for the hydraulic tensioner but be aware it won't fit the mechanical tensioner but I agree with the suggestion above. That is, if you do have a mechanical tensioner, consider converting to the hydraulic style.

There is a hyperlink in Post #41 above which will reveal all you need to know, including pricing and part numbers. If you replace your AC belt tensioner, be aware your '02 uses a different part than do '03+ E46 models. This is also addressed in the document linked in Post 41.

[MafiaAmor]

Okay thanks guys, it looks like I might be doing a small return, hopefully not, but maybe.

I'll look more into it, I'll see what I can find.

Converting is pretty expensive isn't it?

[aurelius]

Converting is pretty expensive isn't it?

Bro, Post 41. Click. Read. Know.

But to cut to the chase, it's about $100 to convert. Less now that you already have the hydraulic pulley on the way.

[MafiaAmor]

I'm at work right now or I would just pop it up and gaze into it all day, I'm just asking these questions without looking into it.

Sorry if I'm wearing your patience, just trying to learn as much as I can.

When I get off I will read all about it, and if that's all it'll cost, I trust you guys so I will probably do that.

[MafiaAmor]

Just looked up your part number though, thanks for that.

http://www.bmwmercedesparts.com/shoppingcart/index.cfm?action=viewCart&siteid=215771

Hopefully my heater will work all the time rather than just on the highway.

[danewilson77]

I'm at work right now or I would just pop it up and gaze into it all day, I'm just asking these questions without looking into it.

Sorry if I'm wearing your patience, just trying to learn as much as I can.

When I get off I will read all about it, and if that's all it'll cost, I trust you guys so I will probably do that.

No worries. MA, all is well....

[aurelius]

Pop your hood and see if you can spot the hydraulic tensioner. What you will look for is the upper right part of the photo below but be aware it'll probably have a black plastic dust cap on it. It'll be pointing toward the front of the car.

2086

If you have the mechanical, look for the de-tension nut built into the casting:

2087

IIRC, you'll have to move the upper hose a bit to get a look at this stuff, therefore do this before you start the car.

[MafiaAmor]

Thanks you guys, I really appreciate all the help.

I am very greatful.

[danewilson77]

Pop your hood and see if you can spot the hydraulic tensioner. What you will look for is the upper right part of the photo below but be aware it'll probably have a black plastic dust cap on it. It'll be pointing toward the front of the car.

2086

If you have the mechanical, look for the de-tension nut built into the casting:

2087

IIRC, you'll have to move the upper hose a bit to get a look at this stuff, therefore do this before you start the car.

I think the de-tension nut is only built into case for the AC mechanical tensioner...but I could be wrong.

[MafiaAmor]

Seafoam is....

1/3 can in the intake VIA the brake booster line.

1/3 can in gas tank.

1/3 can in crankcase for 10 to 20 miles...then change oil.

Clean the icv with car cleaner, and inspect disa when doin all this.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

I'm going to try this, I've never done it, I've watched a friend do it before but he's kind of not, really, smart and I didn't want to follow what he did to his car.

I'll pick some up this afternoon along with some oil and an oil filter.

[aurelius]

I think the de-tension nut is only built into case for the AC mechanical tensioner...but I could be wrong.

It's on both. You can see it in the ECS photo above. Which brings up a good point: definitely de-tension at that point (the nut in the casting). It can be done at the bolt under the pulley wheel's dust cap but it's a LOT more difficult and you can break the bolt. Note that this does not apply to the hydraulic-style tensioner, which needs an 8mm hex socket to de-tension.

I just shot the following picture. Hydraulic tensioner on a ZHP with a manual trans. It'll be harder but not impossible to see these same items on E46 with automatic trans & the big mechanical cooling fan, etc. For orientation on the photo, the brightly lit part at the top is where the upper hose connects to the thermostat. Look for the dust cap on the cylinder in the middle of the photo. That'll indicate you have the hydraulic version. On man-trans cars, the piston part of the hydraulic tensioner can be seen by looking down behind the upper hose.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l584/aurelius3/Random%20BMW%20Pics/27e2d245.jpg

[MafiaAmor]

^^ I am about to go on lunch, when I get home I will see what I can find.

Thanks for the photo, It'll help a lot!

[aurelius]

These will help a lot, too:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=696330

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=770707

[danewilson77]

Both water pump mechanical tensioners I have de-tensioned, on E46, did not have the nut built into body. Maybe on some....maybe not on others.? IDK?

[aurelius]

OP: since you're doing the oil separator / crankcase ventilation (CCV) rehab, be aware it is a challenging job. Have your friend read up on what's involved. Bavauto did a 3-part video DIY. Click HERE (http://blog.bavauto.com/8003/diy-video-replacing-the-bmw-m54-crankcase-ventilation-system/) to read the intro and see the videos.

Also, the latest BMW service information bulletin on this topic (#11 08 03) recommends replacing 5 things, one of which is a "repair kit." Click HERE (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/17676561/BMW%20docs/SIB%20110803%20ColdWeatherOilSep.pdf) if you want to see the SIB.

[MafiaAmor]

Thanks you guys, I'll be back from Canada in about 4 days and I'll look into it again. Just found time to check up on this and let you guys no I'm not ignoring it, just been pretty busy.

It sure is cold here, going from Kansas to Canada, whewy big change.

[MafiaAmor]

Hey everyone, sorry for my absence, I have been very busy at work, we opened up another account with John Deere so it was a big deal, I've been in Minnesota for a while.

Well, since I was there and my car has been stuck at my parents place torn apart, I bought a new water control valve, the dealership has my hydraulic tensioner and all the bolts necessary to do the conversion.

Got me some sea foam, I'm a little bit uneasy about this product, I've heard it's cost people a horrible amount of money, I trust you guys, but I don't want to further involve more money for maintenance.

But anyways, glad I'm back and at home!

[danewilson77]

Glad you're back.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

[johnrando]

Welcome back.

[MafiaAmor]

Thanks for the warm welcomes once again my friends!

The BMW scene in Minnesota is awesome!

I saw 3 Alpina's parked next to each other in a line at a strip mall.

Mall of America was surrounded by BMW's and enthusiast.

It was a very good trip and I love the scenery!

[MafiaAmor]

Well my car is finally complete!!

Talk about having to nearly brake every hose off to the CCV and I had to brake the old CCV to get it off!! Anytime you change that I would make sure to have every single hose and attachment, because half of my hoses were already ripped!!

I fixed my intake leak, no more whistle!(Thanks Dane) that lower intake boot was the absolute problem.

I actually found out my Tensioner was spring actioned and not hydraulic. I didn't want to swap the mechanical with a hydraulic, my buddy say that the one I have on there is perfectly fine, but if I wanted to he would swap it, but It's getting cold and I wasn't too worried about it.

The pulleys and belts got rid of any squeaking ticking or anything else.

THANKS FOR HELPING WITH MY HEATER GUYS!!!!! The WCV was all messed up and shot!!! The new one shot the heater all back on!

I feel like my car drives brand new again, it has a lot more throttle and it has a smooth idle.

But if anyone needs a Hydraulic Tensioner Pulley, I have one that I can sell cheaper than any store because well, you guys are very helpful so why wouldn't I be helpful.

It's straight OEM from BMW GROUP. Part # 11281748131 and the dust cap part # 11281727159

I'll sell it for 25 dollars plus maybe whatever shipping costs, I can get shipping really cheap since we have contracts with Fed Ex and UPS.

If you really need it, I won't charge you for it. Just help me out next time I need it!!

http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/29216_x600.jpg


I appreciate all the help from everybody, I love how my maintenance is finally complete!!!!!

I will keep this thread as my build thread.....Thanks a ton guys!

[danewilson77]

Good job. Thanks for getting back to us.

[MafiaAmor]

Thanks Dane, yeah trying to complete my car when I've been all over the country the last few days has been tough!

I'm driving to L.A. in December so I had to have it done! But geez, I love you guys for helping me with the heater problem, that's honestly what I was worried most about.

[MrMaico]

Congrats on getting things squared away on your car.

I'll take that pulley off your hands. I've been meaning to order one for a while now anyways. No big rush since it'll be getting parked for the winter before too long I'm afraid. PM me your Paypal info if you still have it for sale.

Thanks.....Barry

[echo46]

Great job, gives one a real sense of accomplishment working on the car.

[MafiaAmor]

Congrats on getting things squared away on your car.

I'll take that pulley off your hands. I've been meaning to order one for a while now anyways. No big rush since it'll be getting parked for the winter before too long I'm afraid. PM me your Paypal info if you still have it for sale.

Thanks.....Barry

Alright man when I get off work I'll send you all the info and I'll get it to you. I don't mind helping a fellow member at all.

I will be in touch with you later this afternoon.

And Echo46 - Yes it does, I like the fact that I had great friends at home and great friends here who helped!

[MrMaico]

Alright man when I get off work I'll send you all the info and I'll get it to you. I don't mind helping a fellow member at all.

I will be in touch with you later this afternoon.

And Echo46 - Yes it does, I like the fact that I had great friends at home and great friends here who helped!

Sounds good, thanks Landon. I somehow missed this post but got your PM this morning.

Barry