View Full Version : P0171 & P0171 cleared with new fuel filter, but then P0301 came in
danewilson77
08-26-2011, 12:08 PM
Title pretty much explains it.
Yesterday...out of the blue....with 1/2 tank,car lost power....it was still running, but when I pushed on gas pedal.....nothing was there. This all started after my duty day.....so...I drove in on Wednesday > and then drove it at 1800 for my tour. Car then sat till 1400 on Thursday. Driving home (about 30 miles) later is when indications started.
Change fuel filter today > car would only crank over for a bit....but I finally got it started and drove it down the street. Stalled out on me....but seemed to improve a bit on the way home. I did get the SES light to come in.....then it cleared on it's own.
Parked the car > yellow oil light came in. I have never had to add oil to my car and check it religiously.
Checked oil > 3/4 qt low.
Read code > P0301 cylinder 1 misfire.
From: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0300
Indications:
the engine may be harder to start > Yup
the engine may stumble / stumble, and/or hesitate > Yup....bigtime.
other symptoms may also be present
Additionally:
Causes
A code P0300 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
Faulty spark plugs or wires > Did plugs about 35k miles ago....and did them again 8/25 as corrective action
Faulty coil (pack)
Faulty oxygen sensor(s) > I changed these out...maybe a month ago.
Faulty fuel injector(s)
Burned exhaust valve
Faulty catalytic converter(s)
Stuck/blocked EGR valve / passages
Faulty camshaft position sensor > Never changed
Defective computer
johnrando
08-26-2011, 12:17 PM
Glad that cleared it up.
danewilson77
08-26-2011, 12:17 PM
What? You got any idea's?
mimalmo
08-26-2011, 12:20 PM
If you still have the original coil packs, now might be the time to consider replacing them.
johnrando
08-26-2011, 12:22 PM
Oh, sorry. Thought you cleared it up and all it needed was oil, my bad.
danewilson77
08-26-2011, 12:26 PM
If you still have the original coil packs, now might be the time to consider replacing them.
They are the originals. So......mmmmm.....<(Me thinking)
danewilson77
08-26-2011, 12:29 PM
Spose I should do like I recommend to others, and swap cylinder 1, over to cylinder 2....and see if the code follows.
danewilson77
08-26-2011, 12:50 PM
I believe cylinders are numbered 1 through 6, front to back....correct?
johnrando
08-26-2011, 01:02 PM
Yup. And, the firing order.
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=792474
Newjack
08-26-2011, 01:21 PM
Yeah I would bet money that it is the ignition coil pack. I had this happen to my old Ford Escape. It drove fine but the whole car was shuddering real hard and I knew something was wrong. Engine light came on, ran the code, P0305. Thankfully it was one of my front cylinders (I didn't have the tools with me to remove the intake manifold to access cylinders 1-3) Threw in a new coil pack and car ran perfectly fine.
danewilson77
08-26-2011, 01:23 PM
Mmm...ok...thanks fella's
Newjack
08-26-2011, 01:29 PM
If you have the money and feel like buying all 6 coil packs go for it. But I would just keep 1 or 2 spares and replace them as the go.
Just checked the prices on ignition coil packs. Am I high? Or are they really $58 a piece?
The coil packs for my Ford Escape were $80 a piece. Maybe thats because I bought them at Advance.
RealOEM Link (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=EV53&mospid=47725&btnr=12_1104&hg=12&fg=05)
danewilson77
08-26-2011, 01:32 PM
Running to autozone to get new Bosch coil.....1 each
telijah
08-26-2011, 01:40 PM
Have you ever changed the valve cover gasket? If your low on oil AND a plug all of a sudden is misfiring, maybe oil is seeping into that plug space, and normally a valve cover kit would come with new o-ring that go around the ignition tubes. Just check for oil residue when you take the coil pack off and pull the tube out.
ranger
08-26-2011, 02:03 PM
I had issues with my 300ZX TT with fuel injectors failing that were similar. The ethanol plays havoc with fuel injectors. The injectors would work intermittently - I fixed problem by changing all the fuel injectors.
Hornung418
08-26-2011, 02:17 PM
Sounds like you need to do your VCG...guess Vanos and a coil pack are on the list as well. Hopefully the Coil Pack will tide you over.
RootedDROIDXstatus. Come at me, bro.
billschusteriv
08-26-2011, 02:26 PM
Had similar issues w the touring.
Had a vacuum leak - dunno where, will find out.
Changed out fuel filter
Changed O2 bank 2 sensor 2 - code thrown before
Indy mechanic also thought this was bad gas. When is the last time you filled up and where? He recommended dry gas, but no one really sells it since the ethanol content is so high and dry gas is essentially alcohol. NAPA auto sold me an ethanol gas treatment enzyme deal. Star Brite Star Tron in funky blue bottle. Guy there claimed it works. I added about 2 ounces to my tank and had no further issues (immediately following vacuum line repair tho).
BlackBerry. Tapatalk.
danewilson77
08-26-2011, 05:09 PM
So......I bought one new coil pack....and 6 new plugs. Car is running the same. I did fill up at the NEX last time....on Thursday.....and then it started running shitty.....so....I dunno. I just filled up again (at 1/2 tank) for the storm at BP....but I suppose if the other 1/2 tank was bad....?
So....from here....since I should have time the next couple of days....I'm going to investigate for the presence of a vacuum leak....and maybe try some dry gas.
I dunno fellas....I'm pretty bummed about this. Car was running great. I'm out $180.00 and car runs the same.
Hopefully something turns up.
QUESTION: The lil vent hose that come off of the fuel filter does what exactly?
So...I guess....I will.....
1. Pull intake filter....clean and oil it.
2. Pull DISA and ICV and look around while I'm in there.
3. Inspect Upper and lower intake boots.
:(
Johnmadd
08-26-2011, 07:05 PM
Check your spark plugs for oil on them, if not that then do fuel pump tests, just guessing here.
danewilson77
08-26-2011, 07:07 PM
Check your spark plugs for oil on them, if not that then do fuel pump tests, just guessing here.
Spark plugs were replaced.
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Johnmadd
08-26-2011, 07:09 PM
Plugs were replaced but how about vcg?
danewilson77
08-26-2011, 07:09 PM
Plugs were replaced but how about vcg?
Never.
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Johnmadd
08-26-2011, 07:13 PM
If the vcg let's go it will put oil on the plugs and will definitely stutter a car to putters.
danewilson77
08-26-2011, 07:22 PM
If the vcg let's go it will put oil on the plugs and will definitely stutter a car to putters.
No oil on plugs. All replaced. Nothing in the wells?
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Johnmadd
08-26-2011, 07:25 PM
Sorry I couldn't help.
Johnmadd
08-26-2011, 07:27 PM
Too lean?
danewilson77
08-26-2011, 07:32 PM
Too lean?
No codes now...just running really bad.
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MrMaico
08-26-2011, 09:00 PM
QUESTION: The lil vent hose that come off of the fuel filter does what exactly?
:(
Sorry to hear you're still having problems Dane.
I don't know a whole lot about that vacuum hose but the way I understand it is it operates the fuel pressure regulator which is part of the fuel filter. It goes from the filter up to that F shaped fitting on the intake hose. Maybe the hose is cracked or torn somewhere along the line?
Or possibly fuel pump problems?
Good luck.....Barry
danewilson77
08-26-2011, 09:06 PM
Thanks Barry.
Oli77
08-27-2011, 05:15 AM
Dane, that is not fun to read.
You mention in your first post the faulty camshaft position sensor.
P0301 reads also this: Crankshaft speed/acceleration is monitored by crank sensor. Time for each cylinder combustion is compared against avg. of others. If time for cylinder 1 is longer, fault will set.
Is the crank sensor the same as the camshaft position sensor?
danewilson77
08-27-2011, 06:37 AM
Dane, that is not fun to read.
You mention in your first post the faulty camshaft position sensor.
P0301 reads also this: Crankshaft speed/acceleration is monitored by crank sensor. Time for each cylinder combustion is compared against avg. of others. If time for cylinder 1 is longer, fault will set.
Is the crank sensor the same as the camshaft position sensor?
No....they are different. At least they were on 2001 ZSP.
Do you guys think a sensor could go bad, and not throw a code?
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Hornung418
08-27-2011, 06:47 AM
Yup. Mine was sluggish, but didn't throw the code until a week later!
danewilson77
08-27-2011, 06:50 AM
Yup. Mine was sluggish, but didn't throw the code until a week later!
Sluggish...like when you romp on it....it would stumble?
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Hornung418
08-27-2011, 07:10 AM
Sluggish...like when you romp on it....it would stumble?
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More like I couldn't boogie from a stand still.
It would just kinda go forward slowly in gear.
danewilson77
08-27-2011, 07:44 AM
And what was your issue? Did it just happen...all of a sudden.
Going out now.
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danewilson77
08-27-2011, 09:14 AM
So.....I did the standard intake tear down, DISA, ICV, etc.....and this is what I found.
As I was going in.....
1. AFE oiled filter was filthy. Cleaned it up real good.
1.5. MAF sensor > Looked ok.....but I hit it up real nice with some MAF sensor cleaner.
2. Upper and lower intake boots perfect. No cracks.
3. Disa > perfect....including gasket sealing surfaces.
4. ICV > pretty nice....but I cleaned it up anyways.
All is still apart. Taking a break.
Could a severely dirty intake filter cause my problems? > I think maybe....but for it to be all of sudden > doubtful.
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/IMAG0592.jpg
ZSP-Mafia
08-27-2011, 09:32 AM
Sounds like either one of the CPS, or maybe a fuel pump problem. When my CPS went bad, there was no warning. Car just suddenly started running like poo - threw a code then the SES light went away. I've heard that cleaning the CPS sensors can sometimes cure them. When I pulled the exhaust side out, it was covered in what looked like burnt oil. Worth a shot.
danewilson77
08-27-2011, 10:04 AM
Word.....on it. Great idea brutha.
You think electrical cleaner is the way to go?
jon0886
08-27-2011, 10:41 AM
What I normally start with when diagnosing a misfire fault is to swap ignition coils and spark plugs. I know you replaced your plugs, but doesn't hurt to rule them out anyway. So in your case swap coil 1 with coil 2, and spark plug 1 with spark plug 3. So if the fault moves to cylinder 2, its a coil. Or if it moves to 3, its a plug.
If the fault stays in cylinder 1, then your ignition system should be okay. Fuel would probably be easiest to check next. A fuel pressure tester can rule out a faulty fuel pump, clogged fuel system, or faulty fuel pressure regulator. A quick check can be done by using a long screwdriver or similar tool to listen to the injector to make sure it is opening. It is also possible to swap injectors as they are not too difficult to remove.
If the fuel system checks out, then up next is the intake. Everybody's favorite... vacuum leaks. Before going into this, I usually see vacuum leaks causing lean mixture faults followed by misfire faults, not misfire faults by their own. Hosing down the engine bay with brake clean with the engine running can help locate more obvious leaks, but the most common sources are intake boots, valve cover gaskets, DISA valve, and crankcase ventilation. As a note, I have seen DISA valve seals appear to be okay, but leak after smoking the intake system. Crankcase ventilation can cause an internal leak that is not so easy to notice. I usually determine whether or not the crankcase vent system should be replaced based on mileage/age and whether or not it has an updated oil return hose. You can tell if the oil return hose (crankcase vent valve to dipstick tube) is updated if it has a black mesh sheathe on it. Another sign of a failed crankcase vent valve is large amounts of oil in the intake system or an oil leak coming from the crankcase vent valve.
danewilson77
08-27-2011, 11:27 AM
Thanks john. I did the swap on coils......misdirected did not follow...and now...I can't get code to come in to help. After pitting stuff back together...when I get lights back....I will use car cleaner and see if idle changes.
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ZSP-Mafia
08-27-2011, 11:39 AM
Word.....on it. Great idea brutha.
You think electrical cleaner is the way to go?
Yah, I used an electrical contact cleaner IIRC.
aurelius
08-27-2011, 12:53 PM
Adding to the CCV info in post #39:
"The crankcase vent valve and 4 associate hoses fail and cause a vacuum leak. The valve gets stuck open and the hoses crack. These last 70-120k miles and usually fail 80-90k miles.
Here are a couple diagnoses:
At warm idle, place small plastic freezer storage bag on its side over the oil fill hole. If the bag sits on top or gets slightly sucked in, ~1", the
valve is good. If the bag gets significantly sucked in the hole the valve is stuck open and bad.
With the engine off and cold, carefully remove the hose at the valve cover front corner. Blow hard into the hole. You should hear oil bubbling in the oil pan. If you don't hear the bubbling, the top or bottom hose is likely cracked. The bottom hose often breaks just below the valve connection. There can also be cracks in the other two hoses."
*Source: Rajaie on e46fanatics (a/k/a Beisan Systems)
danewilson77
08-27-2011, 03:52 PM
Ok....great info. Will try the car is put back and power is restored.
Thanks my friend.
I am now interested in how VA330CI
Performed CCV delete.
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johnrando
08-27-2011, 05:23 PM
Keeping fingers crossed. Wish I had more engine knowledge to help, but good advice in the previous posts.
danewilson77
08-28-2011, 01:57 PM
Well...all is back together. Running a tad better....but I do not believe the issue is fixed. I really didn't find anything on my inspection.
Say...the other day...after onset of issue....when I finally got my car home, I noticed something. When I turned my car off.....my exhaust was "popping"...and find of "creaking".
I see above...in my initial post that a "faulty catalytic converter", could be cause.
What is a failed cat? What does that mean? Could it cause my indications?
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johnrando
08-28-2011, 02:01 PM
Not a mechanic, but found this on the web.
There really is no "inspection port" for the consumer or mechanic to see an actual clog in a converter. Often, the only way to tell if a catalytic converter is malfunctioning (plugged) is to remove it and check the change in engine performance. When a clogged converter is suspected, some mechanics temporarily remove the O2 sensor from the exhaust pipe ahead of the catalytic converter and look for a change in performance.
A catalytic converter relies on receiving the proper mix of exhaust gases at the proper temperature. Any additives or malfunctions that cause the mixture or the temperature of the exhaust gases to change reduce the effectiveness and life of the catalytic converter. Leaded gasoline and the over-use of certain fuel additives can shorten the life of a catalytic converter.
A catalytic converter can also fail because of:
Bad exhaust valves on the engine
Fouled plugs causing unburned fuel to overheat the converter
Sometimes you can tell that a converter is clogged because you don't go any faster when you push the gas pedal. Also, there usually is a noticeable drop in gas mileage associated with a clogged catalytic converter. A partially clogged converter often acts like an engine governor, limiting the actual RPMs to a fast idle. A totally clogged converter causes the engine to quit after a few minutes because of all the increased exhaust back pressure.
ZSP-Mafia
08-28-2011, 02:01 PM
Not really sure how a cat fails. Its essentially just a brick with holes drilled in it AFAIK. I guess if it clogged up or the brick came apart somehow, it could be blocking your exhaust.
Edit: ^ What John said.
Newjack
08-28-2011, 02:26 PM
Not saying this happened, but driving your car while your engine is misfiring (say one of the cylinders is not receiving the needed spark) it can damage the cat as well.
danewilson77
08-28-2011, 02:56 PM
Mmm....just started it up again...and finally got ses light. Read codes P2195 and P2197 O2 bank 1 and 2 sensor stuck.
Interesting read here...
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?p=12803614
Not sure what I wanna do next.
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Johnmadd
08-28-2011, 04:41 PM
If the "brick" inside the cat breaks you can hit the cat with a rubber mallet fairly hard and may hear it rattle inside, that means its bad if it rattles.
danewilson77
08-28-2011, 07:27 PM
Would that make the exhaust POP like I've been hearing?
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ZSP-Mafia
08-28-2011, 07:36 PM
I'm pretty sure it's the running lean that's causing the pop. When the brick in the cat breaks, you'll hear a lot of rattling especially under load.
danewilson77
08-28-2011, 07:41 PM
Ok...so were thinking vacuum leak still. Maybe I should just do vanos.
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Hornung418
08-28-2011, 08:16 PM
If you do a catch-can install, be sure you are not introducing negative pressure by venting to the atmosphere. According to George's research, our piston rings are low-tension piston rings that in order to operate efficiently, they need an positive pressure in the crank case.
aurelius
08-29-2011, 06:24 AM
For whatever it may be worth, I too generated a fault code after fuel filter/pressure regulator replacement.
I did the job at a BMW Club DIY day at a local indie repair shop. Which was great because the car was up on a lift and I was also easily able to flush my trans oil at that time.
Afterward, I was checking out the other cars there that day and one of the shop techs (who didn't know what I had just done to my car) went to try to move my car out of the service bay. Problem was, he didn't prime the fuel line by running the pump 2 or 3 times prior to trying to start the motor. Got the misfire code, which they reset for me right then & there.
I would also look into the way the fuel siphons from one side of the gas tank to the other. It is a known E46 issue and can involve a slowly failing fuel pump. See post #5 HERE (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=428834).
billschusteriv
08-29-2011, 06:41 AM
DW, you got a reply on e46fanatics. He said throttle body gasket.
Do you have the resources to do a smoke test? I remember doing a few of those on a main condensers in Upstate NY.
danewilson77
08-29-2011, 07:51 AM
DW, you got a reply on e46fanatics. He said throttle body gasket.
Do you have the resources to do a smoke test? I remember doing a few of those on a main condensers in Upstate NY.
Throttle body gasket..no sheet. Thanks Bill. I don't have a gasket...but I have permatex.
Data: I did the plastic baggy over the oil fill hole and it looked fine. At idle....bag did not seem to overly go into hole.
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danewilson77
08-29-2011, 10:03 AM
Throttle body gasket is perfect.
Before
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/IMAG0609.jpg
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After
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/IMAG0612.jpg
telijah
08-29-2011, 10:28 AM
That seems really sketchy. Are you actually not pulling any codes off your reader, or are you simply not getting an illuminated CEL? At this point, if you're not getting any codes, I'd maybe get a smoke test done JUST to be sure it's not a random leak elsewhere. Otherwise, in a worser case scenario, compression check...?
danewilson77
08-29-2011, 10:53 AM
Codes I have now are P2195 and 2197. On searching I found the fanatics thread...and asked Sylv what fixed his problem. I think I have an vacuum leak...TBody ruled out...as well as anything in normal intake stream. I don't think its vcg because I have no evidence of oil on outside or in plug wells.
Leaning towards intake gasket, or any number of hoses.
If cleaning up TBody, and reassembling doesn't fix...I think I gotta move to smoke test.
What was the DIY for that?
Thanks to all for pitching in thus far.
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Hornung418
08-29-2011, 11:01 AM
Misfire on Cylinder 1 would lead me to believe that it's a Vac leak on the #1 injector. If you can get that blasted electrical connector off easily, then the fuel rail is removed via the four 10mm bolts mounting it to the manifold. The Injectors are held in by O-rings and Pressure.
Remember to pull the fuse for the fuel pump before pulling the rail. It makes a big mess if you don't! Ask me how I know LOL
GSEN820
08-29-2011, 11:09 AM
Dane,
Shot in the dark, but I had a misfire on my 4th cyclinder recently that trhew a CEL. I took my car to my mechanic and turned out to be engine coil. I was able to run voltage on the other coils and will be replacing my 3rd coil due to high voltage reading.
My idle was off causing me to have rough idle. It would run good at times and bad at times. The CEL shut off for a day then come right back on. Got new coil yesterday and car has been great ever since. Misfiring is very typical of bad coils. $40 part and little work to replace if only had misfire in 1 cyclinder.
johnrando
08-29-2011, 11:58 AM
Smoke test: various ideas in this thread. Still looking for something more concrete...
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=398284
EDIT: Found another:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=717894
danewilson77
08-29-2011, 12:11 PM
Done with THbody install...with no good outcome. Car won't even start now. Codes are as follows:
1. P2195 - O2 bank 1 sensor stuck.
2. P2197 - O2 bank 2 sensor stuck.
3. P0102 - MAF or VAF A ckt low input.
4. P0113 - IAT sensor 1 ckt high input.
Ugh.
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johnrando
08-29-2011, 12:14 PM
DANG!
danewilson77
08-29-2011, 12:26 PM
DANG!
+1
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GSEN820
08-29-2011, 12:27 PM
Dane,
I was looking at the previous posting of this thread seems you were not alone.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=315879
I found this article and goes right along with an oiled CAI.
Sorry to hear about your troubles. My cars stay pretty much stock when it comes to engines.
danewilson77
08-29-2011, 12:34 PM
Thanks GEN.
Johnmadd....you wanna lemme borrow your MAF sensor?
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aurelius
08-29-2011, 12:49 PM
Dane, if you have an E46 friend and or forum member nearby, try swapping both CPS units (one at a time, of course) with known-to-be good CPS's.
They're pricey enough that a swap would be worthwhile, altho at higher mileage one could certainly make a case for preventive replacement.
Edit: it has been recommended elsewhere the CPS units should be replaced only with Genuine BMW replacements.
MrMaico
08-29-2011, 01:22 PM
Done with THbody install...with no good outcome. Car won't even start now. Codes are as follows:
1. P2195 - O2 bank 1 sensor stuck.
2. P2197 - O2 bank 2 sensor stuck.
3. P0102 - MAF or VAF A ckt low input.
4. P0113 - IAT sensor 1 ckt high input.
Ugh.
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WTF! I wonder what it means by "sensor stuck"? And what's a "VAF A" circuit? I wonder if a Peake reader would offer anything more specific? Hopefully you can try Johns MAF etc.
You'll get her figured out Dane. I have faith in you. :-)
Barry
GSEN820
08-29-2011, 01:57 PM
Hopefully its the MAF for you Dane.
Dont forget to get rid of the oil on your CAI filter. Run a dry system and hopefully this works out better for you. Hard to tell with a peake code reader not to precise in giving you information.
Good Luck and let us know
MrMaico
08-29-2011, 02:33 PM
Hard to tell with a peake code reader not to precise in giving you information.
Good Luck and let us know
From just a quick search it looks like a stuck o2 sensor means it is stuck lean.
So are you saying a Peake won't give as precise information as a generic reader? I thought they were supposed to be better as far as reading BMW specific codes? At least that's what their sales pitch would have you believe.
Barry
Hornung418
08-29-2011, 02:41 PM
aFe ProDry5 is not oiled.
danewilson77
08-29-2011, 02:41 PM
So...john just came over. Swapped in his MAF sensor...started it up, and took it for a drive....only to have it stall about a mile from the house. We had to push it back. Ugh. He is going to get fuel pressure tester now.
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Johnmadd
08-29-2011, 05:04 PM
Checked residual pressure in his and nothing then did mine just to make sure it wasn't the same reading, it wasn't. Mine had pressure and his did not.
danewilson77
08-29-2011, 05:05 PM
Going after fuel pump next.
Thanks again for help John.
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Johnmadd
08-29-2011, 05:06 PM
Dw, if your cable detaches from your abs tool I think it may adapt to my peake scan/reset tool, not sure though.
danewilson77
08-29-2011, 05:08 PM
Dw, if your cable detaches from your abs tool I think it may adapt to my peake scan/reset tool, not sure though.
Ok....great idea. I will check it out in morning.
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danewilson77
08-29-2011, 05:49 PM
Anyone have an opinion on VDO fuel pumps? $169.00.
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danewilson77
08-29-2011, 08:27 PM
I plan to use below DIY and Bentley manual to perform fuel pump swap. Just wanted to bookmark the link here.
http://www.dvatp.com/bmw/diy/fuel_pump/
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jon0886
08-29-2011, 11:30 PM
I'm used to using a GT1/DIS so I'm not too familiar with P-codes. Since your O2 sensor faults only say they're stuck, I wouldn't rule out that it may also be running rich. The popping from the exhaust leads me to believe that it is a possibility.
Have you had a chance to check fuel pressure yet? Did the symptoms change following replacement of the fuel filter? If so, you may want to double check that the fuel lines are not swapped (I'm pretty sure this is not the case since my coworker just did that and the car wouldn't start) and that the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator is connected and in good condition. Loss of vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator would cause higher than normal fuel pressure at idle and low load.
PS: I have used VDO pumps in customer cars before and have not had any issues with them.
billschusteriv
08-30-2011, 05:28 AM
I plan to use below DIY and Bentley manual to perform fuel pump swap. Just wanted to bookmark the link here.
http://www.dvatp.com/bmw/diy/fuel_pump/
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IIRC, pump swap not too bad. Easier if you don't have >3/4 tank. Otherwise may spill some fuel. Be sure to clean sealing surfaces and get a gasket if available. The "clamp" holding the pump in the tank can be a bugger.
BlackBerry. Tapatalk.
danewilson77
08-30-2011, 07:05 AM
Jon....fuel pressure was zero. I'm going to check filter install again today. I have nothing better to do.
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Hornung418
08-30-2011, 07:40 AM
Man Dane, This is a heartbreaker. I really have no idea. The car has 131k miles, right? Have you confirmed that the parts that failed were OE, as opposed to OEM?
OT: I kind of want to swap my 328 Pump, filter and Fuel Rail and Injectors for the bigger 330 fuel delivery system. Wonder if any programming is necessary?
telijah
08-30-2011, 08:55 AM
Man Dane, This is a heartbreaker. I really have no idea. The car has 131k miles, right? Have you confirmed that the parts that failed were OE, as opposed to OEM?
OT: I kind of want to swap my 328 Pump, filter and Fuel Rail and Injectors for the bigger 330 fuel delivery system. Wonder if any programming is necessary?
Fuel pump has same part numbers for 328/330, so you could at least skip that one.
aurelius
08-30-2011, 09:03 AM
Sounds like DW is awaiting delivery of new fuel pump. For those experiencing similar symptoms or merely for future reference, see link in the last part of my prior post #55 within this thread.
Hornung418
08-30-2011, 09:18 AM
Dane, Could you have a leak in the delivery system? No gas on the garage floor right? Knowing you strive to maintain >1/4 tank of gas, I'm guessing that your PO drove all the way to an empty tank.
Simplicity of the M54B30 Fuel Delivery system:
1901
Ridiculous Complexity of the M52TUB28 Fuel Delivery System:
1902
Looks like a lot of fun to convert...Things I do for moar powah!
ZSP-Mafia
08-30-2011, 10:59 AM
My fuel pump died on me a couple of days ago, just after filling the tank. Swap was very simple, but would have been a lot easier with an empty tank. I got fuel everywhere.
billschusteriv
08-30-2011, 01:47 PM
Bummer. Did you order fuel pump?
What fuel filter did you get?
BlackBerry. Tapatalk.
danewilson77
08-30-2011, 02:28 PM
Bummer. Did you order fuel pump?
What fuel filter did you get?
BlackBerry. Tapatalk.
The fuel filter is a Kayser. It's what was in there.....so I think its own. I just dropped serious $$$ on a Briggs and Stratton 5k generator and separate power transfer station. Got some light, water, fridge, freezer, tv, microwave, and some other stuff. Fuel pump has to wait.
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danewilson77
08-30-2011, 02:29 PM
Dane, Could you have a leak in the delivery system? No gas on the garage floor right? Knowing you strive to maintain >1/4 tank of gas, I'm guessing that your PO drove all the way to an empty tank.
Simplicity of the M54B30 Fuel Delivery system:
1901
Ridiculous Complexity of the M52TUB28 Fuel Delivery System:
1902
Looks like a lot of fun to convert...Things I do for moar powah!
No leakage Horney.
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Johnmadd
08-30-2011, 04:40 PM
The fuel filter is a Kayser. It's what was in there.....so I think its own. I just dropped serious $$$ on a Briggs and Stratton 5k generator and separate power transfer station. Got some light, water, fridge, freezer, tv, microwave, and some other stuff. Fuel pump has to wait.
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How long will you have to / be able to wait for the pump?
danewilson77
08-30-2011, 06:58 PM
May be able to pick up local tomorrow.
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billschusteriv
08-31-2011, 02:29 AM
The fuel filter is a Kayser. It's what was in there.....so I think its own.
Okay. I tried picking up the $20 one from Autozone and it was the wrong one - no vacuum connections for fuel pressure regulator. Ended up ordering a Mahle/Mann from AutohausAZ.
I just dropped serious $$$ on a Briggs and Stratton 5k generator and separate power transfer station. Got some light, water, fridge, freezer, tv, microwave, and some other stuff. Fuel pump has to wait.
:like
BlackBerry. Tapatalk.
VA//M3
08-31-2011, 07:55 AM
Okay. I tried picking up the $20 one from Autozone and it was the wrong one - no vacuum connections for fuel pressure regulator. Ended up ordering a Mahle/Mann from AutohausAZ
IIRC, the e46 that did not have the FPR built into the filters were the 323 and 328 models; which have the FPR located somewhere under the hood.
Like so
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/n/z/36.png
VA//M3
08-31-2011, 08:00 AM
I might be late to the party but regarding the oil issue. Have you changed your CCV valve and hoses?
danewilson77
08-31-2011, 09:58 AM
I might be late to the party but regarding the oil issue. Have you changed your CCV valve and hoses?
I think oil issue was an anomaly.
Casey BMW wanted $390 USD for new fuel pump. Picked up VDO from Bap Geon for $189 USD. Installing now. Will let you guys know.
Sorry I haven't been around much, but with no power, no car...things have kind of been sucking a lil bit lately. On day 5 with no power.
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/IMAG0624.jpg
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/IMAG0623.jpg
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Hornung418
08-31-2011, 10:09 AM
Man, and especially living where you do, at the end of a dead end road, I'm sure they're in no hurry to get to you. My family was with out power for 2 hours...but yet the kids are just now getting to school today :dunno.
Good luck with the FP install. Hope it's the end of this problem. :thumbup
danewilson77
08-31-2011, 12:04 PM
End of problem. Car is fixed. It was the fuel pump. Win. Thanks to all.
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Hornung418
08-31-2011, 12:12 PM
Woohoo!!! What is your mileage the point of replacement?
telijah
08-31-2011, 12:13 PM
IIRC, the e46 that did not have the FPR built into the filters were the 323 and 328 models; which have the FPR located somewhere under the hood.
Which is why in post #85 I mentioned the 328 doesn't use the same filter as the 330 :)
danewilson77
08-31-2011, 12:44 PM
My fuel filter had fpr built into it.
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Johnmadd
08-31-2011, 01:00 PM
Awesome, life is a little less suckier now. I am still without power so we are in the same boat now, go enjoy that car. ;-)
johnrando
08-31-2011, 01:04 PM
So freakin' happy the saga had a happy ending... whew!
danewilson77
08-31-2011, 01:50 PM
Thanks fellas.
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billschusteriv
08-31-2011, 02:54 PM
Woot!
BlackBerry. Tapatalk.
static667
08-31-2011, 06:21 PM
Glad to see that you got it fixed, Dane. Now if I could just send you some electricity via text message...
danewilson77
08-31-2011, 06:28 PM
Glad to see that you got it fixed, Dane. Now if I could just send you some electricity via text message...
No kidding. Heading into day 6.
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aurelius
09-01-2011, 09:58 AM
For those of you with higher mileage and/or a desire to stock spare parts, there is an amazon seller offering OEM Bosch replacement fuel pumps for $95 + $10 shipping:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004X3YG64/
danewilson77
09-01-2011, 10:07 AM
For those of you with higher mileage and/or a desire to stock spare parts, there is an amazon seller offering OEM Bosch replacement fuel pumps for $95 + $10 shipping:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004X3YG64/
H8 u
aurelius
09-01-2011, 02:18 PM
Hey, at least you found a German brand locally at a decent price...!
Jon D
09-01-2011, 02:19 PM
Woot!
BlackBerry. Tapatalk.
Ditto
danewilson77
09-01-2011, 02:21 PM
Hey, at least you found a German brand locally at a decent price...!
I know....just playing. I couldn't even have waited on over night shipping.
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telijah
09-02-2011, 08:59 AM
There's a specialty shop that doubles as a Bosch direct store here (http://www.bayareaimportsinc.com/) I'll need to check out, as I've found many Bosch brand BMW parts there for a fraction of what the dealer charges...
mimalmo
09-02-2011, 09:04 AM
Glad to hear it was just the pump Dane.
danewilson77
09-02-2011, 10:02 AM
Glad to hear it was just the pump Dane.
No kidding...I thought the saga was gonna keep going....and going......
telijah
09-02-2011, 10:35 AM
Ya know, now that I think about it, I should has recognized this as a possible pump problem. When I had my e32, I had almost the exact same symptoms, and end result was the pump was on it's way to dieing, and then suddenly wouldn't work at all. Replies to that thread on bf.c ultimately revealed many many others had the same symptoms when their pumps were biting the dust.
billschusteriv
09-06-2011, 11:29 AM
Had similar issues w the touring.
Had a vacuum leak - dunno where, will find out.
My fuel filter vacuum leak was from the intake manifold. Right behind the air filter box where it connects to the intake, there are two small rubber hoses that connect to a plastic tee on the top of the intake. The bottom hose goes to the fuel filter - it had stretched out and needed a zip tie (or replaced) to make a good seal.
You mentioned having the yellow oil light come on. Apparently one other problem that can plague our cars is a blown diaphragm in the Crankcase-Ventilation/oil separator. I'm using oil at a rather rapid pace (1 qt every 200-500 miles) - so I'm ordering the separator and all hoses to change this out and see if this is the problem.
FWIW, watch your consumption.
danewilson77
09-06-2011, 12:25 PM
Thanks Bill.
VA//M3
09-07-2011, 05:47 PM
My fuel filter vacuum leak was from the intake manifold. Right behind the air filter box where it connects to the intake, there are two small rubber hoses that connect to a plastic tee on the top of the intake. The bottom hose goes to the fuel filter - it had stretched out and needed a zip tie (or replaced) to make a good seal.
You mentioned having the yellow oil light come on. Apparently one other problem that can plague our cars is a blown diaphragm in the Crankcase-Ventilation/oil separator. I'm using oil at a rather rapid pace (1 qt every 200-500 miles) - so I'm ordering the separator and all hoses to change this out and see if this is the problem.
FWIW, watch your consumption.
If you haven't changed your oil filter housing gasket I would do so in conjuction with the CCV valve and hoses. It makes it much easier.
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