Dual mass flywheel

[Cadeez]

I'm told the clunking I'm hearing/feeling at startup and shutdown is my flywheel, great. I was unaware that flywheels went bad, I guess I was wrong. Anyone know a cheap place to get one, or a good brand, etc? Also do I have to put a dual mass back on or can I put a single mass or even a LTW one on? Pro's con's to either?

[RVAzhp]

Originally Posted by Hornung418
Manual or automatic. Its probably the ltw flywheel. NBD for the car.

RootedDROIDXstatus. Come at me, bro.
Originally Posted by aurelius
Can't say I know what the shut-down rattle comes from but mine does it too. Seem to recall my '01 ZSP also did.

Originally Posted by RVAzhp
miles on car? manual i assume. i'm going with T/O bearing, based on what i've heard and what the dealer told me. no sense in replacing it before the clutch goes. mine has done it since 74k and i have 122k now. push the clutch in and it should go away or you can just bask in it's glory.

So 50k with a mild chatter in the clutch on idle maybe once a month, not the worst thing in the world

does it go away when you press the clutch in?

[RVAzhp]

if it is just a shuttering sound at first start-up and slightly when you turn the car off. it's fairly common from my understanding and hasn't cause me any issues in 50k of driving.

Mine doesn't do it everyday though only occasionally at start-up, a little more often at shutdown, but i always park my car in gear so i have the clutch pressed in when i start/stop it.

[Cadeez]

Yeah the sound goes away when I push in the clutch, but the sounds it's making are not 'normal' sounds. If I went to buy this car and it did what it is doing...I would run away. Plus I still have a noticeable loss of power and a rather flat power curve. ince i'm up above 4k I'm fine, but in the lower rpm's it struggles. Could this be caused by the flywheel? No I have not done the DME software update but I do have the Dinan Stage 1 software. No I haven't replaced my O2 sensors, car has just under 85k on it. I will say this, I bought this car in February and it drove like a freakin dream. Not as fast as my E36 M3 but it was quick and the power delivery was even up the rpm range. Now it's not, it idles rough, power is not there, it just drives different.

[RVAzhp]

IDK about the power issue, mine seems to be running fine. the clutch "chatter" was a semi known problem and I even spoke with the owner before purchasing my car and he said it did it on occasion, I did the research and could not find one instance where this was a serious mechanical problem. after owning the car for about a 8 months i took it into the dealer for an Inspection 1 after i bought it since it was still under warranty, the service tech said the T/O bearing was the issue, but that since the clutch was fine there was no need to take it all apart for a T/O bearing and to wait till i do the clutch. that was around 90k i believe, all they did do was replace vanos seals to get rid of the rattle, and gave me a boot to replace at the intake manifold to eliminate my rough idle.

as far as the software issue is something knew to me? i don't think the clutch chatter/flywheel would cause the power loss, but i'm no master mechanic by any means.

Rough idle may be caused by a cracked boot at the intake, but that would throw an SES.

[telijah]

I thought this was referred to as the "death rattle", which sounds much more serious than the problem really is. I had the chatter on shutdown as well when I bought my car. Then a few months ago my throw out bearring went to shit and exploded on me. So I just replaced the tob, pressure plate and clutch disc, reused the flywheel, and the chatter was gone. So I am not sure if the chatter only means the flywheel is bad.

I picked up an OEM clutch "kit" at rockauto.com for under $300 shipped. Came with a Luk disc and Sachs pressure plate.

[Cadeez]

I thought this was referred to as the "death rattle", which sounds much more serious than the problem really is. I had the chatter on shutdown as well when I bought my car. Then a few months ago my throw out bearring went to shit and exploded on me. So I just replaced the tob, pressure plate and clutch disc, reused the flywheel, and the chatter was gone. So I am not sure if the chatter only means the flywheel is bad.

I picked up an OEM clutch "kit" at rockauto.com for under $300 shipped. Came with a Luk disc and Sachs pressure plate.

No shit?? Under $300 is a freakin steal! I'll have to check that out, thanks for the heads up.

I just checked out rockauto.com and I can get the clutch kit and TOB for $305 shipped, that's what I'm talking about! I'm hesitant though because what if that's not the issue? How can I know for sure? A new clutch can't hurt, but if I don't need it that's $300 down the drain and not towards a new $750 flywheel... Thoughts, any definite tell tale signs? How does a flywheel actually go bad?

[SoarinZHP]

Dual mass fly wheels are ridiculously expensive and heavy. They make the car easier to drive for novices and they prevent harmonic vibrations from reverberating through the chassis and various RMP's.

I had a LFW on my previous BMW. Rev-matching was cake . The gear-lash was horrible. It is my understanding if you change the fluid in the tranny to something heavier, the issue is much less prevalent. The car was also faster off the line. Was much easier to stall... The rough starts in either first or reverse sucked and you'd swear your car was messed up the first time you hear it. Also, you could replace the surface on the LWF. I ordered mine from UUC.

[RVAzhp]

Good look on the clutch kit!

[telijah]

Without taking the trans off, I am not sure on telling the difference between a bad flywheel and clutch. If time is not a problem, drop the trans before ordering anything and take a look. If having a shop do it, drop the trans, then order whatever you need quickly and just leave it there until the work is done.

As mentioned though, we have pretty beefy flywheels, and unless the car has been dogged most of its life, I would suspect the clutch disc to go well before the flywheel. When I had my clutch replaced, the flywheel looked OK and I drive mine pretty hard. Seen here: https://picasaweb.google.com/telijah/Clutch#. Ignore the image captions, looks like they all defaulted to the same thing.

The flywheel is the first picture, and I re-used it, no resurfacing or anything.

[danewilson77]

Without taking the trans off, I am not sure on telling the difference between a bad flywheel and clutch. If time is not a problem, drop the trans before ordering anything and take a look. If having a shop do it, drop the trans, then order whatever you need quickly and just leave it there until the work is done.

As mentioned though, we have pretty beefy flywheels, and unless the car has been dogged most of its life, I would suspect the clutch disc to go well before the flywheel. When I had my clutch replaced, the flywheel looked OK and I drive mine pretty hard. Seen here: https://picasaweb.google.com/telijah/Clutch#. Ignore the image captions, looks like they all defaulted to the same thing.

The flywheel is the first picture, and I re-used it, no resurfacing or anything.

Missed you!

[telijah]

Missed you!

Aw, missed ya too buddy. :cheers

[danewilson77]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YnaXB8q3uzQ

[Cadeez]

Thanks DW. Now can I have $700?

[danewilson77]

Thanks DW. Now can I have $700?

Sure. Check is in mail.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

[Hornung418]

OP, if you are going to replace the flywheel you might as well get a 20lb single mass fly from Turner. If you are in an area where all the roads are flat, then I would recommend re 10.5lb JB fly...also available from Turner.

RootedDROIDXstatus. Come at me, bro.