Vanos didn't solve it?

[cparker]

I rebuilt my vanos with the Beisan kit including the rattle kit and my significant 2500-3000 stumble has not gone away. Are there any other issues that closely mimic the vanos symptoms? The vanos seals were definitely worn when I replaced them.

[Hornung418]

You went through the 200 city mile break in period, correct?

RootedDROIDXstatus. Come at me, bro.

[cparker]

So far it's been 500 miles with no improvement.

[Crickett]

Has your ZHP received the shipped-off-to-New-Jersey DME update/reprogram? I think that's usually for a "power dip" around 3.8—4 k, but perhaps?

[kayger12]

Did you verify that the Vanos pistons moved inside of the cylinder as they are supposed to before you buttoned her back up?

[MrMaico]

You probably need the software updated to the latest version. This can be done at any dealer or good indy. This is different than the one Crickett mentions that requires the DME to be sent to Jersey. I had the same issue, a miss under acceleration in the higher gears....rebuilt the vanos first and it made no difference. Had the s/w updated and it is completely gone.

This is assuming you've already changed spark plugs, fuel and air filters.

[JohnnyGraphic]

Could a bad DISA valve be the culprit?

[kayger12]

Could a bad DISA valve be the culprit?

Switch over is at higher RPMs, so I would think not, but someone might have a better take on it.

[cparker]

I definitely felt an increase in performance after replacing the vanos seals, but I still have the stumble. Plugs and all filters have been changed. How much is an update going to cost me? Everything looked good when i put the vanos back together, but I suppose anything is possible. I'll get an update at a dealership and if that doesn't solve it I'll tear the vanos back down...

[Crickett]

I definitely felt an increase in performance after replacing the vanos seals, but I still have the stumble. Plugs and all filters have been changed. How much is an update going to cost me? Everything looked good when i put the vanos back together, but I suppose anything is possible. I'll get an update at a dealership and if that doesn't solve it I'll tear the vanos back down...

A DME update should only cost you an hour or two of shop time; they just plug it into the GT1 & run the update (I believe).

[cparker]

Well, I have a list of parts I need to order so tuesday I'm going to call the dealership and set up an appointment for a DME update and order the parts.

I just pulled my airbox and checked the lower intake boot for cracks and surprisingly there are none that I could see. I didn't completely remove it because I'm going to pull my ICV tomorrow to clean it and I don't feel like doing that all twice, I'll look at it closer then.

[kpro]

Cparker:
I have the EXACT same problem. I've put 1500 miles on my cars since vanos rebuild and still have the 2500-3000rpm hesitation. I did notice improvement in torque and take off after the vanos was complete, but the hesitation is just as bad as it was, no improvement there. I checked my DISA and its fine. I also had the DME reflash done and I'm at a complete loss as to whats wrong now.

This weekend autozone hooked up the OBD2 scanner just to see if I had soft codes stored, and there was nothing. I was kinda hoping a cam sensor was crapping out or something, just so that I would have an answer. I'm going to subscribe to this thread incase you figure it out and I'm over here still trying to find a solution.

[aurelius]

Cparker:
I have the EXACT same problem. I also had the DME reflash done and I'm at a complete loss as to whats wrong now.

You may want to research exactly which version to which you were "updated." See post #70 here:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=120971&page=3

[cparker]

I have to be honest, I was expecting better engineering when I purchased a BMW. There are several serious issues with these cars.

[aurelius]

I have to be honest, I was expecting better engineering when I purchased a BMW. There are several serious issues with these cars.

You'll find quirks with any make or model. Whether it's a Toyota with floor mats jammed up under the pedals, a Range Rover whose inevitable air suspension failure sounds like a bomb exploding, or a new $300k Ferrari displaying spontaneous combustion. And on new cars, the quirks haven't been sorted out yet, which results in multiple dealership visits for unresolved warranty work. It's really a matter of picking your poison.

[Hornung418]

Found it! The reason behind the stumble at 2.8k is an o2 sensor reading error.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=21669497&postcount=6

So if you've updated your DME...I suggest changing your Pre-cat o2 sensors.

[kpro]

Thank you Horney! I will run down an 02 here in a few days and see if that takes care of it. I kinda forgot about the bimmerforums since I've came over here. I search google when I need answers, I'm dumb sometimes.

[billschusteriv]

Not dumb at all Kristen. I try to forget that other forum I frequented.

That's why we've got the Family Search enabled... and an understanding community that doesn't mind or feel threatened by links to other boards when the data exists elsewhere....

[kayger12]

o2 sensor is a great call. Nice research, Justin.

[Kudos]

Please let us know if this solves the issue. Just curious, since i haven't checked, are there 2 precat and 2 post cat just like the m52 engine?

[kayger12]

Affirm.

[Hornung418]

Please let us know if this solves the issue. Just curious, since i haven't checked, are there 2 precat and 2 post cat just like the m52 engine?
But...The Post-cat sensors are rated for a much higher mileage failure. Just get the Pre-cat sensors, and wait for the car to throw a code for the post-cat sensors.

[cparker]

When I emailed Beisan they recommended looking at the o2 sensors. Are you guys using OEM o2 sensors or going aftermarket? Real oem calls for over $200 for an OEM sensor.

[aurelius]

When I emailed Beisan they recommended looking at the o2 sensors. Are you guys using OEM o2 sensors or going aftermarket? Real oem calls for over $200 for an OEM sensor.

Those of you looking to replace your pre-cat O2 sensors (whether because you've hit 100k miles, you have error codes, and/or you're looking to get rid of the 2800 rpm issue, have a look at this thread before you buy -- you'll save some bucks. Short version: Amazon, buy 2 of the cheaper one (they're the same - see post #30).

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?1377-BMW-E46-330i-ZHP-O2-Oxygen-Sensors

[cparker]

Good call, I'm going to pick up a pair of 215's.

[kpro]

I'm weird about what parts I will use aftermarket on...I will most likely just get my sensor/s from BMW

[cparker]

I ordered a pair of the 215's from autohaus and then bought the tool (along with a few other things) from ECS tuning. I'll provide an update when I get it done.

[MrMaico]

I ordered a pair of the 215's from autohaus and then bought the tool (along with a few other things) from ECS tuning. I'll provide an update when I get it done.

Are you getting any O2 sensor codes?

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=445105&highlight=

[aurelius]

FYI, the technical info posted at the link above is BMW service information bulletin (SIB) 12 08 05.

Would be interesting to see cparker here go that route (software update) prior to new O2's, tho it still wouldn't explain the issue with kpro's car.

OP: what's your mileage?

Kpro: still questioning whether yours got the appropriate update. The tech doing the work has to be very specific about what he/she requests of the system, as described in SIB 12 08 05.

[MrMaico]

FYI, the technical info posted at the link above is BMW service information bulletin (SIB) 12 08 05.

Would be interesting to see cparker here go that route (software update) prior to new O2's, tho it still wouldn't explain the issue with kpro's car.

OP: what's your mileage?

Kpro: still questioning whether yours got the appropriate update. The tech doing the work has to be very specific about what he/she requests of the system, as described in SIB 12 08 05.

I agree, if I were cparker I would try the update before replacing any more parts. It seems as though the update curing the miss is usually on ZHPs more than any other models/engines so that might be why it didn't help Kpro. It also seems like a lot of the ZHPs are the 04 model year for some reason. :dunno

[cparker]

Are you getting any O2 sensor codes?

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=445105&highlight=

No, I don't have any codes.

[cparker]

FYI, the technical info posted at the link above is BMW service information bulletin (SIB) 12 08 05.

Would be interesting to see cparker here go that route (software update) prior to new O2's, tho it still wouldn't explain the issue with kpro's car.

OP: what's your mileage?

Kpro: still questioning whether yours got the appropriate update. The tech doing the work has to be very specific about what he/she requests of the system, as described in SIB 12 08 05.

94k

[aurelius]

At 94k, you're a little early for new pre-cat O2's but not by much. See if you can get the DME update before you install them. If you use an indie BMW shop, be sure they have the right equipment. Do you have after market (ie Dinan, etc.) performance software?

[cparker]

I do not have any aftermarket software.

[aurelius]

Let us know which you do first (O2's or software) and your results, etc.

[Cadeez]

Coming in late here but...I'm having a similar issue with the power loss, plus some odd "rattle" activity at startup/shutdown. Is it standard procedure for a shop to update the DME software prior to installing aftermarket software? I have the Dinan Stage 1 software and I will be doing the Beisan seals and rattle kit this weekend, my car has 83k on it, too early for the O2's to be bad?

[aurelius]

...I'm having a similar issue with the power loss, plus some odd "rattle" activity at startup/shutdown. Is it standard procedure for a shop to update the DME software prior to installing aftermarket software? I have the Dinan Stage 1 software and I will be doing the Beisan seals and rattle kit this weekend, my car has 83k on it, too early for the O2's to be bad?

Update will overwrite Dinan but Dinan will let you re-flash for free. I've done it. FYI, the Dinan dealer in question will likely charge you labor for it. I was also charged for the s/w and then later refunded after Dinan authorized it. Which made no sense considering the shop doing the re-flash had done the original Dinan installation but that's the way it went down. I also had to hound them for the refund but that had nothing to do with Dinan directly.

Can't say I know what the shut-down rattle comes from but mine does it too. Seem to recall my '01 ZSP also did.

If you shop around, you should be able to get the BMW DME update for about $100, possibly even at a BMW dealership. Which is cheaper than 2 new O2's. But since the OP (cparker) has already ponied up for new O2's and he is near replacement mileage for them anyhow, it'll be interesting to see if the DME update becomes a moot point once those are installed.

Keep in mind indie shops with Autologic or similar can update you to the latest BMW spec. You are not limited to BMW dealerships for this. Prior to doing so, you might check out the E46 car/key work sheet (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/17676561/BMW%20docs/E46%20Car%20Key%20Options.pdf) to see if you want anything changed while the car is connected to the Autologic or dealer computer.

[cparker]

I will be installing the 02 sensors first. There have been many accounts of the update fixing the issue, and many speculate that it's because the "old" software doesnt handle aging sensors well so if I swap them out and see that it fixes the problem then we will know for sure that the problem originates with the failing sensors and is exacerbated by the programming.

[Cadeez]

That's a fine bit of info there sir, thank you for the follow up. We'll see how she runs after I do the Vanos, and I'll wait to hear about the OP's O2's as well before I opt for the DME tune.

[cparker]

I pulled my intake boots, DISA, and idle control valve. I don't have any cracks in the lower intake boot, I cleaned the intake control valve (which was pretty cruddy), and the DISA seams to be ok. It makes some noise when I twist the vane around but it operates smoothly.

[danewilson77]

I pulled my intake boots, DISA, and idle control valve. I don't have any cracks in the lower intake boot, I cleaned the intake control valve (which was pretty cruddy), and the DISA seams to be ok. It makes some noise when I twist the vane around but it operates smoothly.

Good work.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

[cparker]

I would recommened to everyone who has not taken their intake apart and cleaned everything out to do so. Cleaning the MAF and IACV smoothed out my idle considerably and the seat of my pants feels like some power was recovered. Apparently cracked intake boots are quite common, so it's definitely worth looking into for anyone and I also resealed the DISA valve because they can also leak some vacuum over time.

[VA//M3]

This may also be worth looking at. It solved all my stumble issues for good after the VANOS seals. I posted about it over at e46fanatics besian systems main thread. and I am awaiting response from Rajaie.

"My car has suffered from a slight hesitation when taking off and under load, and also when suddenly accelerating under load at low rpm's up until 3k in 1st through 2nd even well after 3k miles on your seals.

So I went in and looked at the MAF, cleaned it and also inside the connector I crimped down the pins inside so it would grab the receiving end pins better--that helped but the hesitation was still there.

Just 3 days ago I decided to clean and evenly crimped (using a pick) down the pins inside the connector for the exhaust VANOS solenoid; I took it for a spin and low and behold the hesitation was pretty much gone! A few days went by and the more I drove the car the more low end torque it developed and it revved up smoother and smoother.

Yesterday, I did the same thing to the intake VANOS solenoid connector. Took it for a spin and the car felt as if the DME was relearning it's VANOS adaptations all over again! (felt sluggish at the beginning and started feeling stronger about 3 to 6 minutes later) 30 miles later the car feels great! and there is absolutely no hesitation under any circumstances!

The hesitation was caused due to shoddy and loose contact between the solenoid and it's receiving end.

The pins inside both pigtails were spread open for some reason unknown to me.

The new found torque and instantaneous throttle response caught me off guard yesterday during a on and off drizzle when I punched it at 2750rpm in 2nd gear-- The rear end of the car kicked out to the side as if it had an LSD! (yes, I always drive with traction control off--at least when I can remember to turn it off.)"

That fixed it for me. It's worth a shot to look at your pigtails.

[Mtnman]

VA330CI
It might be nice to take a pic of you engine and point out both the intake and the exhaust pin connectors so everyone will know where they are, and can perform this maintenance. Good Idea, BTW

[VA//M3]

Basically you disconnect the only two pigtails connected to the VANOS body. Then you do the following.

http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/3747/connectorj.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/696/connectorj.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

This is my MAF connector but the same concept applies to the VANOS connectors since they are the same in design.

You basically wedge a pick at the top and bottom of the filaments inside closing them together. Not all the way obviously but enough so that when it is plugged in it will open slighly and grab/bite the pins on the receiving end.

I've already done it to the image above. I don't have a before picture but the filaments were spread open and did not form a perfect rectangle as they do now.

Which reminds me I need to detail my engine bay...:(

[VA//M3]

Well here is what the owner and designer and tester of besian systems had to say about this.

"Congrats on the find and repair!
Thanks for sharing this important info!

I have not heard of this before. It seems reasonable it could be a problem.
There have been owners that complained of a hesitation that the vanos seals didn't resolve.

Some owners replace the vanos seals and receive little or no benefit. I know if they have another performance related problem they won't receive the benefits of the new seals until the problem is resolved. But in some cases it seems they have no performance problem. I've always wondered in these cases what is going on. Maybe what you found is a relevant cause.
Spray cleaning connectors with electrical contact cleaner is a good idea. But I had not considered crimping the pins.

Did your pins seem excessively open?"

For more info http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=856781

[danewilson77]

Damn fine werk son.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

[cparker]

I'm going to do this after work.

[danewilson77]

I just did it....but I also applied a lil dab of dielectric grease.

My car now has been butt dyno'd at 500Hp.

[kayger12]

Great info.

Droid X. Tapatalk. Use it.

[danewilson77]

I was kidding. Dunno if I got enough bend. You gotta be careful as some of the connection material is foil like. I did put the grease in there as well.....plus a lil bendage. No change for me.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

[cparker]

No change for me either.

[cparker]

I'm hoping all the crap from ECS tuning will show up before this weekend but I doubt it. I'll give you guys an update when I swap out the o2's.

[VA//M3]

When you all tried to plug it back in; did you encounter any resistance?

[danewilson77]

When you all tried to plug it back in; did you encounter any resistance?

Very little. My wife was working.

[cparker]

Very little. My wife was working.

:rofl

[johnrando]

:rofl

+1. Nice info VA, thanks.

[VA//M3]

Very little. My wife was working.

There should have been some. Even if your wife was working. :applause

[Cadeez]

On Monday I did the Vanos seals and rattle kit, along with belts, mani gasket, thermostat, coolant flush and a new shock because one of mine was bent. Immediately afterwards I didn't notice much difference, but the more I drive it the more torque I feel, at least I think. The seals/rattle kit however didn't fix the issue I was hoping they would, which is a pretty serious sounding rattle/klunking at shutdown. I have no idea what it is. And even scarrier, it makes the same sound but for 5-6 seconds totally randomly at startup. Doesn't happen often, but it did it last night as I left work. Not even sure how to explain it, sounds like someone dropped an unopened soup can on my cams and it's clunking around in there. Almost like a car that's timing is off that runs for a couple seconds after you turn it off, except mine shuts off but makes the sound as it does so. The idle is still a little rough, throttle response might be a little better, I'm lost. I don't want to take it in and say hey find my problem cause I'd rather not spend thousands of dollars at my local shop right now...

[Hornung418]

Manual or automatic. Its probably the ltw flywheel. NBD for the car.

RootedDROIDXstatus. Come at me, bro.

[kayger12]

Manual or automatic. Its probably the ltw flywheel. NBD for the car.

RootedDROIDXstatus. Come at me, bro.

+1. Step on the clutch when you shut her off and see if that gets rid of the sound.

Droid X. Tapatalk. Use it.

[Cadeez]

If it's the flywheel I would be very surpriseed, but I will try the clutch idea. This is something that if I heard it when I bought it...I wouldn't have. It's mechanical, and did not come from the dealership this way. It's not a minor, tinny sound like a flywheel, it's big ka-chunk-y sound that I can feel as well. Like the motor is shuttering, I can't imagine what could make it though. The car runs pretty strong, I would think a sound like this would hinder the drivability of the car too. My mileage hasn't waivered, acceleration is smooth (other than the 28k-35k spot), basically it drives nice. So weird...

[kayger12]

Maybe motor or trans mounts if it's not the flywheel?

Droid X. Tapatalk. Use it.

[Cadeez]

I finally remembered to give this a try...and when I have the clutch in and turn it off it doesn't make the terrible sound. Sooo... What's next? I didn't know flywheels went bad? Keep in mind it makes a similar sound randomly at startup and lasts for a few seconds, it makes the idle really rough and you can defintiely feel the car shutter/shake a bit, then it goes away.

[aurelius]

What's your mileage?

Sounds like you have more than one issue. Don't worry about the flywheel. I'd start with inspection of motor & trans mounts, as also suggested in post 63 above.

[Cadeez]

Just turned 84k

[cparker]

O2's FTW. No more hesitation.

[danewilson77]

O2's FTW. Not more hesitation.

Win.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

[Hornung418]

O2's FTW. Not more hesitation.

Awesome! Glad I found that for us. Im going to change my pre-cat O2 sensors out when I install headers, change oil and replace fuel filter in 2k miles.

RootedDROIDXstatus. Come at me, bro.

[aurelius]

Apparently, then, the solution comes down to a hundred bucks or so for the DME update (which presumably allows continued use of the pre-cat O2's up to their stated life span of 100k miles) or ~$200 for a pair of new O2's.

Given that my ZHP has exhibited these symptoms since about 50k miles, I'm certainly tempted by the DME update. That is, assuming the update will indeed get me 100k mis out of my current O2's and any subsequent sets.

Either way, I'll report back here with whatever I decide to do and the results, etc. I may be able to barter with my indie for the DME update, in which case I'll probably go that route.

For reference, I'm at only 65k miles. If I were nearer to 100k, I'd def go for new O2's.

[cparker]

Win.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

Spelling correction FTW.

[Marcus-SanDiego]

Spelling correction FTW.

Good news on the spelling thing. Even if you didn't fix it, no one would make an issue of it on the site. We don't do that here. So, no worries, pal.

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?515-Why-is-there-crack-on-my-face&p=8600#post8600

[cparker]

Good to know. I couldn't help by make a crack at my own spelling error because I'm usually the one who gives my buddies/family a hard time about spelling and grammar.

[cparker]

Apparently, then, the solution comes down to a hundred bucks or so for the DME update (which presumably allows continued use of the pre-cat O2's up to their stated life span of 100k miles) or ~$200 for a pair of new O2's.

Given that my ZHP has exhibited these symptoms since about 50k miles, I'm certainly tempted by the DME update. That is, assuming the update will indeed get me 100k mis out of my current O2's and any subsequent sets.

Either way, I'll report back here with whatever I decide to do and the results, etc. I may be able to barter with my indie for the DME update, in which case I'll probably go that route.

For reference, I'm at only 65k miles. If I were nearer to 100k, I'd def go for new O2's.

I could be wrong, but I have a feeling all said and done a DME update will be more than $100 if done at a dealership.

[Marcus-SanDiego]

Good to know. I couldn't help by make a crack at my own spelling error because I'm usually the one who gives my buddies/family a hard time about spelling and grammar.

Well, we all let our hair down here (even those of us with no hair).

Just one more reason why this site works.

[BADCLOWN]

FWIW: i got the DME in my car reflashed (apparently had never been in its prior owner(s) hands) for $100 bucks and 1.5 hours of updating time at a certified BMW shop.

[RVAzhp]

Manual or automatic. Its probably the ltw flywheel. NBD for the car.

RootedDROIDXstatus. Come at me, bro.


Update will overwrite Dinan but Dinan will let you re-flash for free. I've done it. FYI, the Dinan dealer in question will likely charge you labor for it. I was also charged for the s/w and then later refunded after Dinan authorized it. Which made no sense considering the shop doing the re-flash had done the original Dinan installation but that's the way it went down. I also had to hound them for the refund but that had nothing to do with Dinan directly.

Can't say I know what the shut-down rattle comes from but mine does it too. Seem to recall my '01 ZSP also did.

If you shop around, you should be able to get the BMW DME update for about $100, possibly even at a BMW dealership. Which is cheaper than 2 new O2's. But since the OP (cparker) has already ponied up for new O2's and he is near replacement mileage for them anyhow, it'll be interesting to see if the DME update becomes a moot point once those are installed.

Keep in mind indie shops with Autologic or similar can update you to the latest BMW spec. You are not limited to BMW dealerships for this. Prior to doing so, you might check out the E46 car/key work sheet (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/17676561/BMW%20docs/E46%20Car%20Key%20Options.pdf) to see if you want anything changed while the car is connected to the Autologic or dealer computer.


If it's the flywheel I would be very surpriseed, but I will try the clutch idea. This is something that if I heard it when I bought it...I wouldn't have. It's mechanical, and did not come from the dealership this way. It's not a minor, tinny sound like a flywheel, it's big ka-chunk-y sound that I can feel as well. Like the motor is shuttering, I can't imagine what could make it though. The car runs pretty strong, I would think a sound like this would hinder the drivability of the car too. My mileage hasn't waivered, acceleration is smooth (other than the 28k-35k spot), basically it drives nice. So weird...

miles on car? manual i assume. i'm going with T/O bearing, based on what i've heard and what the dealer told me. no sense in replacing it before the clutch goes. mine has done it since 74k and i have 122k now. push the clutch in and it should go away or you can just bask in it's glory.

So 50k with a mild chatter in the clutch on idle maybe once a month, not the worst thing in the world

[cparker]

I wanted to provide an update to you guys.

The problem came back a few days later. I just recently got a DME update and it completely resolved the 3200rpm problem along with my rough idle, and off idle hesitation.

[danewilson77]

I wanted to provide an update to you guys.

The problem came back a few days later. I just recently got a DME update and it completely resolved the 3200rpm problem along with my rough idle, and off idle hesitation.

Dealer update correct?

[cparker]

No, at a local independant.

[danewilson77]

No, at a local independant.

Ok...same diff. We had thread discussion a while back and some felt the NJ route was the only way to cure the dip. That's not true either....from other thread stating dip came back after 500 miles. Dip probably isn't software related at all.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

[llll1l1ll]

I just got the VANOS rebuilt with new seals and the rattle kit. I also have new spark plugs. I drove around politely, but spiritedly, for the first 200 miles - just as the shop recommended. Never went above 4,200 and would accelerate with modest aggressiveness from 2,800 to 3,200.

I've noticed now, and progressively throughout having had the seals done, if I have my car in 4th, 5th or 6th (sometimes 3rd), I get this goofy jerky feeling when accelerating from 2,400 up to 3,200. Then it smooths out. My DISA is making a bit of rattling noises, but I heard/read that the DISA only affects 4K dips (which I haven't noticed at all).

So, from what I've read in this thread, would getting the DME reflash "cure" my goofy hesitation? Or should I opt for the O2 sensor route?

My car has 84,4xx on the clock. No record of the O2 being replaced. New intake plumbing (upper and lower boots) as of one month ago. Also, FWIW, the battery is stock.

[MrMaico]

I just got the VANOS rebuilt with new seals and the rattle kit. I also have new spark plugs. I drove around politely, but spiritedly, for the first 200 miles - just as the shop recommended. Never went above 4,200 and would accelerate with modest aggressiveness from 2,800 to 3,200.

I've noticed now, and progressively throughout having had the seals done, if I have my car in 4th, 5th or 6th (sometimes 3rd), I get this goofy jerky feeling when accelerating from 2,400 up to 3,200. Then it smooths out. My DISA is making a bit of rattling noises, but I heard/read that the DISA only affects 4K dips (which I haven't noticed at all).

So, from what I've read in this thread, would getting the DME reflash "cure" my goofy hesitation? Or should I opt for the O2 sensor route?

My car has 84,4xx on the clock. No record of the O2 being replaced. New intake plumbing (upper and lower boots) as of one month ago. Also, FWIW, the battery is stock.

I would bet that you need the software update. Sounds just like what mine was doing but mine was doing it even before I did the Vanos seals. You just need to tell whoever does it that you want to be updated to the latest software version.

Barry

[llll1l1ll]

Dang it! It's already been done as of a week ago. No big deal. I can run down to Tischer BMW and have them do it. The price will probably be worth it... :/

[danewilson77]

I thought stutter fix, software update, had to be done in Jersey?

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

[echo46]

That's what I always thought but I was assured that my whip got the studder update somewhere in michigan.

[llll1l1ll]

If I've read correctly, people in this thread had it done right at the shop with about an hour's labor.

Either way, I don't need my car on a day-to-day basis.

[danewilson77]

If I've read correctly, people in this thread had it done right at the shop with about an hour's labor.

Either way, I don't need my car on a day-to-day basis.

Eli has info on Jersey, and why it can only be done in Jersey.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

[MrMaico]

I thought stutter fix, software update, had to be done in Jersey?

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

You're thinking of the 4000 rpm power dip, that one supposedly can only be done by having a dealer ship your DME to Jersey. The 2800 to 3000 rpm miss in the higher gears that I had, both before AND after doing my Vanos, was cured by a software update at an indy. JB Eurotech in Minneapolis did mine.

[danewilson77]

Thanks.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

[llll1l1ll]

Exactly what I needed to know. Thanks!

[echo46]

Interesting, thanks, I'm educated now.

[MrMaico]

Bump