danewilson77
10-30-2010, 08:15 PM
So....as promised...this will be the coilover diy that we can use to help install, just about any set of coilovers on your zhp. The set I went with was the FK Silverline X adjustable setup offered at www.ecstuning.com. It retails for about $1299.00, and I recieved in about 10 days. In addition to these coilovers I also recommend you install fresh Control Arm Bushings (CAB's), Rear Shock Mounts (RSM's), and Front Shock Mounts (FSM's).
Typical Coilover Kit>$1500
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/KWV1s.jpg
FSM - Meyle HD
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/IMG_20101102_175708.jpg
RSM - JTD 909's
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/IMG_20101013_160606.jpg
CAB - Meyle HD
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/IMG_20101102_175522.jpg
DIY Total Time....about 5 hours which would include final tweaking of ride height and dampening.
Materials
1. 2 Jacks and 2 jack stands + oem trunk jack. Also jack pads.
2. Lug wrench.
3. Small and medium standard tip screwdriver.
4. Nice sharp knife.
6. Metric sockets (1/2 drive and 1/4 drive) and matching ratchets.
7. White lithium grease.
Rears
Step 1
Ensure your emergency brake is on. Obviously you will need to jack up and secure you car. I did this one side at a time (you could do front's, then rear, or one wheel at a time...really doesn't matter), with a jack and 2 jack stands. I don't care how you do it, just be safe. If you have questions here, ask us, of maybe you shouldn't be doing this yourself.
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/IMG_20101105_220358-1.jpg
Step 2
Remove your selected tire and rim, using proper counter torque, and the approved lug wrench.
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/IMG_20101013_162636.jpg
^^^Also a very good time to get in there with the wire brush and clean up those rotor hats and calipers. I plan to change these soon, but I still had to clean them up.
Step 3 - Rear
I began by pulling the left and right panels out of my back seat. If someone were sitting in your backseat, their left or right flank (on their back) would rest against these bolster's.
These are removed by pulling the top toward the engine bay, then by sticking your hand in the crack between the back rest, and the seat cushion and pulling up. It will come out pretty easy. You can see, the seat belt there to give you a sense of direction.
Passenger side.
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/IMG_20101103_174128.jpg
Drivers side
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/IMG_20101103_174143.jpg
Once this is removed for either side, you will see 2 plastic rivets (one on each side), that will need to be removed, so the carpet can be pulled back from the trunk. You can see one of those rivets right there, in the above pic, by the seat belt buckle.
Step 4
Now...enter the trunk with wreckless abandon...hehe. Open your trunk, and remove the emegency kit (if you have one), and the carpet floor for the truck. Both should just lift out.
Then, locate and remove the plastic rivets securing the surrounding carpet. There should be 3 on the drivers side, and 1 on the passenger side (this would be in addition to the 4 you have already removed to un-secure the carpet that wraps around behinfd the rear seat bolsters (that you have already removed). You can see one of the rivets in the below pic...well...kinda. The big round black object is the release for the secret compartment, and you can just make out the edge of a rivet in the top left hand portion of the pic....
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/IMG_20101103_174157.jpg
Step 5
OK...almost to the fun stuff. Once the carpet can be removed (or at least you have room to get to the RSM's - You will see in a minute), you will need to make a fine incision in the sound dampening material, that covers the RSM's. I know, I hate doing this also....but you gotta do it if you want your ride tight. So just do it!!!!
I won't show you both sides here.....
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/IMG_20101013_162714.jpg
Step 6
Because I like to be in control, anytime I am working on my suspension...I placed a jack here, so I could control the rate of descent, of the shock, and the rest of the remaining structure. Only position the jack so it is just touching.
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/IMG_20101103_175259.jpg
Step 7
With everything properly supported, I removed the hex bolt (Pc 2, below) that holds in the lower portion of the shock, to the wishbone.
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/138.png
Then you will need to remove the two bolts that secure the RSM to the inside of the trunk (See RSM pic at beginning of diy). Now that all of this is loose, the only thing holding that shock in there is that jack (The one you used in step 6). Just slowly, relieve pressure on the jack, and be sure to catch the shock, so it doesn't flop out and hit you in the head. HINT: The coil will be applying downward pressure as you lower the jack.
Step 8
The next piece you will need to remove is the rear coil. yeah, that big fat one sitting there on the rear wishbone. I hate spring compressors, and find them to be quite the PITA so I opted for option 2. I placed the oem jack in the space to the left of the coil (white arrow in below pic), and slowly pushed the wishbone down, just enough to get the old spring out.
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/IMG_20101103_190736-1.jpg
Step 9
So now that you have all the old removed, you can get in there and do some intense cleaning. Installation is pretty much in reverse of the above, except for the new adjustable rear coilover spring perch. This will be placed, on the wishbone and I really recommend using a good grease here, on the threads, because you will want to maintain the adjustment feature. I lubed it up, then ran the adjustment collars up and down to give em a nice coat.
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/IMG_20101102_173758.jpg
Then put the coil on top of this^^^^^
NOTE: Ensure you adjust these prior to installing as these are what will adjust your ride height. Mine are set so that the bottom ring is a half turn from being bottomed out. You can remove both rings for the lowest achieveable ride in the rear. You will also need to adjust the dampening or your ear shocks (if yours has this feature). To do this, you fully compress the shock, and rotate the shaft in accordance with the manufacturers instructions. Mine is set to the middle (position 2) position.
Step 10
Like I said above, it's pretty much the reverse order to get the new RSM and shock installed. Here are some tips.
-Do not over torque the RSM bolts and adhere to manufacturers direction.
-You can hold the shaft of the shock to attach and tighten the shock to the RSM.
-Your old boot and bump stop will not fit the new coilover setup (unless you got oem shocks)
-You will not re-use the lower spring pad.
After the shock and rear shock mount are installed, slowly use the jack, below the wishbone to slowly raise the perch up to the desired height, to facilitate installing the large lower hex bolt. Ensure the new coil seats properly on the upper rubber spring pad. Once this is complete, you can put your tire on, and move on to the next task. Once both rears are complete, put your trunk and rear seat back together, but remember to wash your hands well, first.
Fronts
Step 1
Typically....the fronts will include what you see below. 2 coil's, 2 coilover shocks, and two wrenches. I think I already mentioned, that this is a great time to replace the Front Shock Mounts as well. Also.....this can be done a few different ways. This is just my way of doing it.
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/146917_x600-1.jpg
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/146909_x800.jpg
OK.....so now that the rears are finished up.........properly raise and support the front end of the car......both sides. If you try to do one side at a time.....you will have a problem getting endlinks off (As these are a weight transfer item). Additionally....remove both tires.
Step 2
Grab a jack now......and place it under the Control Arm outer ball joint (The one closest to the wheel-Pic with RED writing, below), and raise the jack up only until it contact the under side of the ball joint.
Remove the bolt fastening the lower shock to the king pin "pocket" (Piece 4, below) and remove the end link connection (The entire endlink may have to be removed) (see the bracket farther up the shock in the below pic?).
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/KWKingPin.png
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/KWouterballjoint.png
Step 3
At this point.....I lower the jack...that is under the ball joint.....and let the weight of the king pin and brake assembly pull the "shock to kingpin" joint apart.
The stock setup.....should just slide apart....but may need help...by use of large hammer.
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/IMG_20101105_205125.jpg
Ensure......once you believe this connection is loose.......continue to lower your jack.......but ensure you have hold of your rotor, as it's going to want to "flop" all over the place. ALSO BE VERY MINDFUL OF YOUR BRAKE LINES AND OTHER SENSITIVE ELECTRONICS IN THE AREA.
Step 4
Now.....once the lower connection is out of the way....and all is well.......loosen all of your upper strut mount bolts (Pic below)......and ONLY completely remove 2 of them. Take a deep breath......reach underneath.....grab the shock with your right hand.......and with your left hand.....loosen and remove the third bolt.
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/KWupperstrutmount.png
Step 5
OK.....now the old setup is removed.......Time to put new one on.....
Ensure you keep Pc 6 below....as this will be needed with your new coilover setup.
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/KWUpperStrutMountRealoem.png
I have had the best luck using the method below. With the new coil on the new coilover......place piece 6 on top and and attach FSM to coilover using pc 3. I believe the torque here is around 45 ft-lbs.....but I just tape the shock piston....as high up as I can.....grab it with vice grips, and then tighten piece 3 as tight as I can get it (The vice grips will eventually lose grip, and you don't want to marr the piston.
Step 6
with the coilover attached to the FSM....with right hand....place the assembly into place (Upper strut mount), and with left hand.....get at least one bolt started. I end up doing most of this myself...so I have to get creative. Once you're there......place the other two bolts on the upper strut mount, and tighten.
Step 7
With the upper connection sound......slowly jack up the brake assembly and king pin......and get the lower coilover to "seat" into the "king pin pocket". Ensure it is seated all of the way, and isn't "cocked". Continue to raise the jack....until the coilover begins to compress, and you're sure it's seated properly. Tighten piece 4 (Step 2, above).
Step 8
Reattach endlink connection, and put tire back on. Lower car to normal.....and enjoy your new, lower ride.
Typical Coilover Kit>$1500
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/KWV1s.jpg
FSM - Meyle HD
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/IMG_20101102_175708.jpg
RSM - JTD 909's
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/IMG_20101013_160606.jpg
CAB - Meyle HD
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/IMG_20101102_175522.jpg
DIY Total Time....about 5 hours which would include final tweaking of ride height and dampening.
Materials
1. 2 Jacks and 2 jack stands + oem trunk jack. Also jack pads.
2. Lug wrench.
3. Small and medium standard tip screwdriver.
4. Nice sharp knife.
6. Metric sockets (1/2 drive and 1/4 drive) and matching ratchets.
7. White lithium grease.
Rears
Step 1
Ensure your emergency brake is on. Obviously you will need to jack up and secure you car. I did this one side at a time (you could do front's, then rear, or one wheel at a time...really doesn't matter), with a jack and 2 jack stands. I don't care how you do it, just be safe. If you have questions here, ask us, of maybe you shouldn't be doing this yourself.
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/IMG_20101105_220358-1.jpg
Step 2
Remove your selected tire and rim, using proper counter torque, and the approved lug wrench.
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/IMG_20101013_162636.jpg
^^^Also a very good time to get in there with the wire brush and clean up those rotor hats and calipers. I plan to change these soon, but I still had to clean them up.
Step 3 - Rear
I began by pulling the left and right panels out of my back seat. If someone were sitting in your backseat, their left or right flank (on their back) would rest against these bolster's.
These are removed by pulling the top toward the engine bay, then by sticking your hand in the crack between the back rest, and the seat cushion and pulling up. It will come out pretty easy. You can see, the seat belt there to give you a sense of direction.
Passenger side.
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/IMG_20101103_174128.jpg
Drivers side
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/IMG_20101103_174143.jpg
Once this is removed for either side, you will see 2 plastic rivets (one on each side), that will need to be removed, so the carpet can be pulled back from the trunk. You can see one of those rivets right there, in the above pic, by the seat belt buckle.
Step 4
Now...enter the trunk with wreckless abandon...hehe. Open your trunk, and remove the emegency kit (if you have one), and the carpet floor for the truck. Both should just lift out.
Then, locate and remove the plastic rivets securing the surrounding carpet. There should be 3 on the drivers side, and 1 on the passenger side (this would be in addition to the 4 you have already removed to un-secure the carpet that wraps around behinfd the rear seat bolsters (that you have already removed). You can see one of the rivets in the below pic...well...kinda. The big round black object is the release for the secret compartment, and you can just make out the edge of a rivet in the top left hand portion of the pic....
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/IMG_20101103_174157.jpg
Step 5
OK...almost to the fun stuff. Once the carpet can be removed (or at least you have room to get to the RSM's - You will see in a minute), you will need to make a fine incision in the sound dampening material, that covers the RSM's. I know, I hate doing this also....but you gotta do it if you want your ride tight. So just do it!!!!
I won't show you both sides here.....
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/IMG_20101013_162714.jpg
Step 6
Because I like to be in control, anytime I am working on my suspension...I placed a jack here, so I could control the rate of descent, of the shock, and the rest of the remaining structure. Only position the jack so it is just touching.
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/IMG_20101103_175259.jpg
Step 7
With everything properly supported, I removed the hex bolt (Pc 2, below) that holds in the lower portion of the shock, to the wishbone.
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/138.png
Then you will need to remove the two bolts that secure the RSM to the inside of the trunk (See RSM pic at beginning of diy). Now that all of this is loose, the only thing holding that shock in there is that jack (The one you used in step 6). Just slowly, relieve pressure on the jack, and be sure to catch the shock, so it doesn't flop out and hit you in the head. HINT: The coil will be applying downward pressure as you lower the jack.
Step 8
The next piece you will need to remove is the rear coil. yeah, that big fat one sitting there on the rear wishbone. I hate spring compressors, and find them to be quite the PITA so I opted for option 2. I placed the oem jack in the space to the left of the coil (white arrow in below pic), and slowly pushed the wishbone down, just enough to get the old spring out.
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/IMG_20101103_190736-1.jpg
Step 9
So now that you have all the old removed, you can get in there and do some intense cleaning. Installation is pretty much in reverse of the above, except for the new adjustable rear coilover spring perch. This will be placed, on the wishbone and I really recommend using a good grease here, on the threads, because you will want to maintain the adjustment feature. I lubed it up, then ran the adjustment collars up and down to give em a nice coat.
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/IMG_20101102_173758.jpg
Then put the coil on top of this^^^^^
NOTE: Ensure you adjust these prior to installing as these are what will adjust your ride height. Mine are set so that the bottom ring is a half turn from being bottomed out. You can remove both rings for the lowest achieveable ride in the rear. You will also need to adjust the dampening or your ear shocks (if yours has this feature). To do this, you fully compress the shock, and rotate the shaft in accordance with the manufacturers instructions. Mine is set to the middle (position 2) position.
Step 10
Like I said above, it's pretty much the reverse order to get the new RSM and shock installed. Here are some tips.
-Do not over torque the RSM bolts and adhere to manufacturers direction.
-You can hold the shaft of the shock to attach and tighten the shock to the RSM.
-Your old boot and bump stop will not fit the new coilover setup (unless you got oem shocks)
-You will not re-use the lower spring pad.
After the shock and rear shock mount are installed, slowly use the jack, below the wishbone to slowly raise the perch up to the desired height, to facilitate installing the large lower hex bolt. Ensure the new coil seats properly on the upper rubber spring pad. Once this is complete, you can put your tire on, and move on to the next task. Once both rears are complete, put your trunk and rear seat back together, but remember to wash your hands well, first.
Fronts
Step 1
Typically....the fronts will include what you see below. 2 coil's, 2 coilover shocks, and two wrenches. I think I already mentioned, that this is a great time to replace the Front Shock Mounts as well. Also.....this can be done a few different ways. This is just my way of doing it.
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/146917_x600-1.jpg
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/146909_x800.jpg
OK.....so now that the rears are finished up.........properly raise and support the front end of the car......both sides. If you try to do one side at a time.....you will have a problem getting endlinks off (As these are a weight transfer item). Additionally....remove both tires.
Step 2
Grab a jack now......and place it under the Control Arm outer ball joint (The one closest to the wheel-Pic with RED writing, below), and raise the jack up only until it contact the under side of the ball joint.
Remove the bolt fastening the lower shock to the king pin "pocket" (Piece 4, below) and remove the end link connection (The entire endlink may have to be removed) (see the bracket farther up the shock in the below pic?).
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/KWKingPin.png
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/KWouterballjoint.png
Step 3
At this point.....I lower the jack...that is under the ball joint.....and let the weight of the king pin and brake assembly pull the "shock to kingpin" joint apart.
The stock setup.....should just slide apart....but may need help...by use of large hammer.
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/IMG_20101105_205125.jpg
Ensure......once you believe this connection is loose.......continue to lower your jack.......but ensure you have hold of your rotor, as it's going to want to "flop" all over the place. ALSO BE VERY MINDFUL OF YOUR BRAKE LINES AND OTHER SENSITIVE ELECTRONICS IN THE AREA.
Step 4
Now.....once the lower connection is out of the way....and all is well.......loosen all of your upper strut mount bolts (Pic below)......and ONLY completely remove 2 of them. Take a deep breath......reach underneath.....grab the shock with your right hand.......and with your left hand.....loosen and remove the third bolt.
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/KWupperstrutmount.png
Step 5
OK.....now the old setup is removed.......Time to put new one on.....
Ensure you keep Pc 6 below....as this will be needed with your new coilover setup.
http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af278/nicee46/Maintenance%20and%20Misc/KWUpperStrutMountRealoem.png
I have had the best luck using the method below. With the new coil on the new coilover......place piece 6 on top and and attach FSM to coilover using pc 3. I believe the torque here is around 45 ft-lbs.....but I just tape the shock piston....as high up as I can.....grab it with vice grips, and then tighten piece 3 as tight as I can get it (The vice grips will eventually lose grip, and you don't want to marr the piston.
Step 6
with the coilover attached to the FSM....with right hand....place the assembly into place (Upper strut mount), and with left hand.....get at least one bolt started. I end up doing most of this myself...so I have to get creative. Once you're there......place the other two bolts on the upper strut mount, and tighten.
Step 7
With the upper connection sound......slowly jack up the brake assembly and king pin......and get the lower coilover to "seat" into the "king pin pocket". Ensure it is seated all of the way, and isn't "cocked". Continue to raise the jack....until the coilover begins to compress, and you're sure it's seated properly. Tighten piece 4 (Step 2, above).
Step 8
Reattach endlink connection, and put tire back on. Lower car to normal.....and enjoy your new, lower ride.