Hot Coolant?

[Grex101]

Last night my sister and I had this sudden craving for Chinese food, so around 11pm we decided to satisfy our hunger. She complained that it was a little chilly in the car, so I put on the heat, and annoying the coolant light came one 1-2 mins after the heat. I turn off the heat to see if it had to do anything with the light, and to my surprise, it vanished 1-2 mins after turning off the heat :scratchinghead. I did service in my car a week ago, and they definitely replaced the coolant. I haven't used the heat since then, because New England being blessing us with some great temperature (besides this stupid tornado). Anyway, have anyone experienced this issue? is it serious? How can I fix it?

[Marcus-SanDiego]

Moving this thread to mechanical/troubleshooting.

[Grex101]

Oh sorry about that, thank you.

[danewilson77]

They prolly didn't bleed the coolant system properly. Bleed the system and add as necessary until at proper level,,,but do not overfill.

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[kayger12]

Yep-- not enough coolant in there, so as soon as you put on the heat and the core opened up, it lowered the level enough to set off the light.

[billschusteriv]

Oh sorry about that, thank you.

Not a worry. Boss was just letting you know. :) Sometimes I'm not sure where to post.

[Marcus-SanDiego]

Oh sorry about that, thank you.

Oh, not a problem. I say that any time I move a thread. It creates a new post so that people will see it (especially the thread starter). I also do it so that people realize where they are posting (which forum). I can't tell you how many times I have been on other sites and thought I was posting in one forum -- when I was posting in another forum.

All good.

[billschusteriv]

Last night my sister and I had this sudden craving for Chinese food, so around 11pm we decided to satisfy our hunger. She complained that it was a little chilly in the car, so I put on the heat, and annoying the coolant light came one 1-2 mins after the heat. I turn off the heat to see if it had to do anything with the light, and to my surprise, it vanished 1-2 mins after turning off the heat :scratchinghead. I did service in my car a week ago, and they definitely replaced the coolant. I haven't used the heat since then, because New England being blessing us with some great temperature (besides this stupid tornado). Anyway, have anyone experienced this issue? is it serious? How can I fix it?

It can be serious. I definately would not drive the car for any period of time without addressing. Watch your temperature - if the needle starts to creep up towards the red, it's already too hot.


They prolly didn't bleed the coolant system properly. Bleed the system and add as necessary until at proper level,,,but do not overfill.

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Do you have any questions on how to fill?

Turn off the car and let the car cool after driving or fill before starting. Open the hood and locate the coolant fill cap near the front of the engine compartment. Remove the fill cap. There is a float that should provide indication of your level. An attached indicating plate tells you how to read the float.

You have a screwdriver in your toolkit in the trunk. Use the phillips end to open the bleed screw near the fill cap. Just a few turns should be necessary.

Commence filling the system. Do not overfill. Remaining air should leave through the bleed screw.

Once it indicates full, replace the cap and close the bleed screw. Be sure not to overtighten or strip out the bleed screw.

Start the car and crank the heat. Let it run for about ten minutes. Repeat fill and bleed procedure as described above.


Moved writeup and added detail in Filling and bleed coolant DIY (BMW E46 generic) (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?3167-Filling-the-coolant-(BMW-E46-generic)) thread

[johnrando]

Nice Bill. Perhaps that deserves it's on DIY. John

[MasterC17]

Bleeding the coolant isn't exactly a quick task, you need to keep adding coolant over and over. I'm sure the shop just didn't finish it completely and so it still needs coolant added. Check the level, I'm sure it's low. Now add coolant until it is within the appropriate range (little black thing on the right will show you), let the car run for ten minutes, check again, it will probably be lower, add coolant, repeat until the coolant level stops changing.

[billschusteriv]

I agree John - I was using Opera browser on my BB at the time... I should be able to transfer over and add pics later.


Nice Bill. Perhaps that deserves it's on DIY. John

Done... with credit to 3ZHPGUY

Filling and Bleeding Coolant DIY (BMW E46 Generic) (http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?3167-Filling-the-coolant-(BMW-E46-generic)) thread.

[billschusteriv]

Bleeding the coolant isn't exactly a quick task, you need to keep adding coolant over and over. I'm sure the shop just didn't finish it completely and so it still needs coolant added. Check the level, I'm sure it's low. Now add coolant until it is within the appropriate range (little black thing on the right will show you), let the car run for ten minutes, check again, it will probably be lower, add coolant, repeat until the coolant level stops changing.

On my e30... my mechanic suggested that I fill the system as previously prescribed... then turn on the car, crank the heat, and crack the bleed screw. Then, once an air-free stream of coolant is issued from the bleed screw - shut the bleed screw and turn off the car. Then top-off the system as necessary.

If you have two people... this may work... you need someone else to watch the temperature gage and low coolant light (or absence thereof) - while you man the bleed screw to close it once the air-free stream of coolant is issued.

Anyone advise against this? I know it works for the e30.

But MasterC17 is right. Filling/bleeding coolant is an iterative process because of all of the high spots in the system that may contain air pockets.

[Grex101]

U guys are so helpful, thanks. One question thi, what is the bleed screw? Is it the cap of the cap of the coolant?

[kayger12]

Right here

http://www.bokchoys.com/differential/pictures/thermostat_11.jpg

[Grex101]

So I decided to bleed the coolant myself....and well...did not go to well. I did not screw the bleeding screw on to well, so it started to leak. BMW told me I need another cooling tank and upper hose (where the leak is....I noticed that while bleeding it. Hey! at least I got that part). So I changed the coolant fluid, and the car's temperature gage finally decided to go high (it never did even when I was running low on coolant. Maybe because I bled it, or I change the type of coolant I usually put on the car) So I'm in deep poopie...

[danewilson77]

So..I'm confused. What is current status?

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[billschusteriv]

Hi Grex.

I didn't realize that BMW told you that you needed an expansion tank or upper hose to fix a leak.

If you are running hot - don't run the car! The heat can warp the block.

[Grex101]

The car isn't working at the moment. For some reason, I keep thinking that BMW aggravated my situation, I don't know, I still feel like that.

[Grex101]

I hope the car was not damaged even worst. It was able to drive, however the temperature wuld gradually increase. I noticed my radiator fan stopped functioning now, is it because I have no coolant in there, or...? Oh god here comes trouble.

[Grex101]

Anyone good at parts number? What is the part number for the water pump? And BMW services say I need a coolant reservoir and UPPER hose. While the part number is correct, I doubt the part number for the upper hose is correct. Here is the number 11531436408...it seems that's not the upper hose...am I correct?

[Marcus-SanDiego]

Let me grab my repair order so that I can look at the part numbers. I did a cooling overhaul about 2,000 miles ago.

Just looked the part numbers were not on my work order. I had it done at an Indy shop. I'm going to have them reprint my RO with part numbers.

[billschusteriv]

Let me take a look after lunch Grex.... I'll get back to you.

If you want to have a go at it, the site I use is Realoem.com for parts look up.

ECS Tuning also has multiple coolant overhaul kits with aftermarket and BMW parts.

[danewilson77]

Anyone good at parts number? What is the part number for the water pump? And BMW services say I need a coolant reservoir and UPPER hose. While the part number is correct, I doubt the part number for the upper hose is correct. Here is the number 11531436408...it seems that's not the upper hose...am I correct?

Recommend the kit....as recommended above...

Droid + Tapatalk = FTW!

[Grex101]

Yea, I use realoem as well. It seems that my coolant was leaking. What's the coolant overhaul? Maybe a kit might be better instead of replacing individual parts. And thanks a lot guys, and may I add that's definitely the best forums I've subscribed in.

[billschusteriv]

There are a number of components in the coolant system that are prone to wear and eventual failure. The cooling overhaul kits (ECS offers a Stage I and a "more extensive" Stage II kit) package those parts that should be considered for repair. They may also prove to be more economical in the long run.

Chances are, if some of the components are beginning to fail, it might be a good idea to replace most, if not all, of the parts prone to failure.

Another good site you can use to price check the parts is getbmwparts.com.

[Marcus-SanDiego]

Agree. I replaced everything. Just preventive maintenance. They'll all wear together from here.

[danewilson77]

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E46-330i-M54_3.0L/Engine/Cooling/

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[Marcus-SanDiego]

Dane, would it be best to get the level two kit?

[danewilson77]

Dane, would it be best to get the level two kit?



Sure...it its in op's budget. The level 1 kit does the entire coolant system. Point being...if you do level 1...you should be coolant system safe. The level 2 package offers belts, and new water pump pulley, etc....so....

Bottom line is it is prudent to get level 2...if you can afford it...but then you might as well get 2 new tensioners and a deflection pulley as well.

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[billschusteriv]

Anyone good at parts number? What is the part number for the water pump? And BMW services say I need a coolant reservoir and UPPER hose. While the part number is correct, I doubt the part number for the upper hose is correct. Here is the number 11531436408...it seems that's not the upper hose...am I correct?

Hi Grex - I actually found a DIY on Bimmerfest where the OP posted a PDF of the part numbers and prices. Check it out - post 12:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2462192&postcount=12

On realoem - there is a "Part NR Application Search" after you "enter" realoem.com. I punched that part number into the search and came up with what looks to be the lower hose.... goes from the bottom of the radiator to the water pump. Perhaps they have different nomenclature for it in the shop?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/i/i/233.png

Realoem calls both part 1 and 3 water hoses.

No. Description Supplement Qty From Up To Part Number Price Notes
01 WATER HOSE 1 17127510952 $32.98
02 Vent screw 1 10/2003 17111712788 $3.17
02 Vent screw 1 11537793373 $5.79
03 WATER HOSE 1 11531436408 $33.96 +core
04 Temperature sensor 1 13621433077 $25.03
05 Return hose 1 11531436410 $22.15 +core
06 Water pipe 1 11537502525 $35.83
07 O-ring 20X3 4 11531435808 $1.81
08 Heater inlet pipe 1 11531705210 $30.08
09 Hex bolt with washer M8X20-Z1-ZNS 3 07119900259 $0.65
10 Hex nut with plate AM6-ZNS 1 07129900681 ENDED
10 Hex nut with plate AM6-8-ZNNIV SI 1 07129904553 $0.64
11 Cable strap 1 61131391721 $1.77
12 Temperature sensor 1 13621433077 $25.03
only in conjunction with
-- Socket terminal SLK 2.8 ELA 0,22-0,5MM² SN 2 12521427608 $0.47
-- Socket housing 2 POL. 1 12521427615 $1.73

I would ask for clarification. 11531436408 seems to be known as the "lower hose". Good to be certain where the leak is located.

[Grex101]

Thnks a lot guys. I think am I going for the lvl 2, however it doesn't seem like they have for my model year tho (2004) and what is the ECS tunning? And is the kit better then the OEM parts?

[danewilson77]

Thnks a lot guys. I think am I going for the lvl 2, however it doesn't seem like they have for my model year tho (2004) and what is the ECS tunning? And is the kit better then the OEM parts?

Kit is way better if you want to lower your car. I recommend you see if AutohausAZ carries them before you check ecs.

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[billschusteriv]

There are two Level 2 kits - one has Genuine BMW parts and the other used OEM or aftermarket parts.

Personally, I will only use a Genuine BMW water pump as I had an OEM pump fail after 15k miles.

[Grex101]

I think I will get it thn. I also noticed that my radiator was not working. Is that due to low coolant lvl or its messed up as well. Its funny how before I did the bleeding, the coolant waas fine, well it would run low, however the temperature gage would stay stable. As soon as I did the bleed (may I add the bleeding screw was not screw all the way) the coolant started spewing everywhere and the temperature gage was rising.

[danewilson77]

What do you mean radiator was not working? You mean the aux pusher fan?

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[Grex101]

Yes the fan...sorry about that, not too familiar with the terminology.

[danewilson77]

Yes the fan...sorry about that, not too familiar with the terminology.

You have an auto?

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[Grex101]

Yes its an auto.

[billschusteriv]

Yes its an auto.

There is a lower thermostat on automatics to help regulate automatic transmission fluid temperature on startup and maintain when operating. Make sure you specify that you have an auto when you order your kit. Or call ECS to talk to someone about your order.

See this post and picture from e46fanatics.com:

http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/showpost.php?p=11682684&postcount=2

http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=358458&d=1272678985

[Grex101]

Wow, how can you guys deal with all that...thanks a lot for the help. Bad news, it seems like I'm going to need a housing and cylinder gasket, and finally some bushings. Good news, I did the coolant overhaul, however I didn't repplace the thermostat nor the waterpump, as they are still running strong. How serious are my bad news, because the mechanic was making a huge deal out of it (he isn't a bmw mechanic, just a gas station repair). What would I need to fix first?