M0nk3y
05-17-2011, 04:16 PM
With enough people requesting, I decided to write a guide about Random Orbitals and Rotaries.
I want to say this again…this is from what I learned; take it with a grain of salt if you want. I’m not responsible for anything that happens in your hands, I’m just here to explain the processes.
The main question I get: What is a DA (Dual Action) orbital and a rotary? Are they even different.
Dual Action polishers rotate around a circular path, the don’t rotary around a single axis…but 2 (hence the Dual). They rotate around the central axis and the disc that is attached to that is then rotated in a circle due to physics. It’s hard to explain, but what you get is a polisher that doesn’t FORCE the pad in to rotation…that’s the key difference. Because the pad doesn’t rotate around a single axis and isn’t forced into rotation…it’s literally impossible to damage your paint with it (You’d have to hold the polisher in the same spot for about 5 minutes to maybe do damage).
Dual Action polishers are fantastic for beginners, and it’s what everyone should learn on. The learning curve is extremely easy to master and the machine won’t eat you alive.
Now here comes the rotary. Remember when I was talking about all of that rotation around the axis thing? Yea…the rotary doesn’t have that. The pad rotates only around central the axis. Because of this, the pad is FORCED into rotation. With this type of machine, you are able to do much more correction to the paint compared to a rotary. Why? The machine cannot be bogged down when you apply pressure to it (versus the Dual Action). So the pad will constantly rotate. As well, since it only revolves around the single axis…it’s able to create heat a lot faster. Best was to imagine it is drawing a circle on your desk...you keep on tracing that line over and over again.
Now, draw ovals that constantly rotate around that central axis you drew the first oval at. This resembles a Dual Action path…See how it usually never draws the same path of a line? That helps dissipate heat easier and reduces the risk of any harm.
Fair Warming…with a rotary you WILL damage your paint at some time or another. I did my mistake and it went for a $300 mistake.
So, you have your choice of machines down…but what else do you need? You still need pads and polishes of course.
Pads. There are many pads on the market now and all of the different colors are often confusing to people. Foam pads have different densities of foam which relates to cutting power. They all vary on different manufactures…but I’m going to suggest what is proven in the market and on cars…Lake County Pads (LLC).
Their foam pads are durable and don’t break apart (unlike others). Here is their color line-up from MOST aggressive to least aggressive.
Yellow, Orange, White, Black, Blue, Red, Gold.
LLC also offers a Purple Wool Pad, but I don’t like it…you will not be able to correct much with it on a Dual Action.
LLC also has hydropads that are designed to work with water based polishes, like Meguiars M105/205. They are Cyan and Tangerine Pads…respectively.
So, polishing time. So many polishes, right?! Each polish is designed to accomplish some job, whether that is heavy swirl removal or light finishing. Most people prefer a 2 step polish…it’s the ideal choice for swirl removal and enhancing depth, so that is what I’ll look to recommend.
Please only focus on Menzerna Polishes and Meguiars…There are other alternatives (like Griots or Poorboys), but those aren’t designed to cut through hard clearcoat like BMW and Mercedes.
So, it’s time to look at combinations. Here is what I suggest if you are using a Dual Action:
Menzerna Polishes: I’d look into Super Intensive Polish (SIP) and Nano Polish (106FF) and use an Orange and White pad.
Meguiars Polishes: M105/M205 (Orange and White as well).
Rotary:
Menzerna: This is a toss-up, you can either go for swirl correction or enhancing gloss with decent correction.
Swirl Correction: SIP and 106FF (White and Black Pad)
Gloss: 106FF and PO85RD (Black and Blue).
Meguiars: M105/M205 (Cyan and Tangerine Hydro Pads or White and Black Pads).
I’m sorry to cut this short, but I figured this is a good start for people that have been asking me for this type of stuff.
If you need specific info, post it and I’ll add it. I’ll write some more as well tonight on polishing techniques…how to approach polishing panels, bumpers…etc
I want to say this again…this is from what I learned; take it with a grain of salt if you want. I’m not responsible for anything that happens in your hands, I’m just here to explain the processes.
The main question I get: What is a DA (Dual Action) orbital and a rotary? Are they even different.
Dual Action polishers rotate around a circular path, the don’t rotary around a single axis…but 2 (hence the Dual). They rotate around the central axis and the disc that is attached to that is then rotated in a circle due to physics. It’s hard to explain, but what you get is a polisher that doesn’t FORCE the pad in to rotation…that’s the key difference. Because the pad doesn’t rotate around a single axis and isn’t forced into rotation…it’s literally impossible to damage your paint with it (You’d have to hold the polisher in the same spot for about 5 minutes to maybe do damage).
Dual Action polishers are fantastic for beginners, and it’s what everyone should learn on. The learning curve is extremely easy to master and the machine won’t eat you alive.
Now here comes the rotary. Remember when I was talking about all of that rotation around the axis thing? Yea…the rotary doesn’t have that. The pad rotates only around central the axis. Because of this, the pad is FORCED into rotation. With this type of machine, you are able to do much more correction to the paint compared to a rotary. Why? The machine cannot be bogged down when you apply pressure to it (versus the Dual Action). So the pad will constantly rotate. As well, since it only revolves around the single axis…it’s able to create heat a lot faster. Best was to imagine it is drawing a circle on your desk...you keep on tracing that line over and over again.
Now, draw ovals that constantly rotate around that central axis you drew the first oval at. This resembles a Dual Action path…See how it usually never draws the same path of a line? That helps dissipate heat easier and reduces the risk of any harm.
Fair Warming…with a rotary you WILL damage your paint at some time or another. I did my mistake and it went for a $300 mistake.
So, you have your choice of machines down…but what else do you need? You still need pads and polishes of course.
Pads. There are many pads on the market now and all of the different colors are often confusing to people. Foam pads have different densities of foam which relates to cutting power. They all vary on different manufactures…but I’m going to suggest what is proven in the market and on cars…Lake County Pads (LLC).
Their foam pads are durable and don’t break apart (unlike others). Here is their color line-up from MOST aggressive to least aggressive.
Yellow, Orange, White, Black, Blue, Red, Gold.
LLC also offers a Purple Wool Pad, but I don’t like it…you will not be able to correct much with it on a Dual Action.
LLC also has hydropads that are designed to work with water based polishes, like Meguiars M105/205. They are Cyan and Tangerine Pads…respectively.
So, polishing time. So many polishes, right?! Each polish is designed to accomplish some job, whether that is heavy swirl removal or light finishing. Most people prefer a 2 step polish…it’s the ideal choice for swirl removal and enhancing depth, so that is what I’ll look to recommend.
Please only focus on Menzerna Polishes and Meguiars…There are other alternatives (like Griots or Poorboys), but those aren’t designed to cut through hard clearcoat like BMW and Mercedes.
So, it’s time to look at combinations. Here is what I suggest if you are using a Dual Action:
Menzerna Polishes: I’d look into Super Intensive Polish (SIP) and Nano Polish (106FF) and use an Orange and White pad.
Meguiars Polishes: M105/M205 (Orange and White as well).
Rotary:
Menzerna: This is a toss-up, you can either go for swirl correction or enhancing gloss with decent correction.
Swirl Correction: SIP and 106FF (White and Black Pad)
Gloss: 106FF and PO85RD (Black and Blue).
Meguiars: M105/M205 (Cyan and Tangerine Hydro Pads or White and Black Pads).
I’m sorry to cut this short, but I figured this is a good start for people that have been asking me for this type of stuff.
If you need specific info, post it and I’ll add it. I’ll write some more as well tonight on polishing techniques…how to approach polishing panels, bumpers…etc