Would you see a difference in performance in an automatic?

[L0veZHP]

If you add performance stuff (example: intakes and headers)
do you think it would be worth it? I kinda don't.

[kayger12]

Auto is just a different way of getting the power to the wheels. If you increase the power, you're still getting more power to the wheels.

If you're happy with your auto (which I'd imagine driving in NYC traffic you are), then I don't see it as a waste.

I'm sure one of the guys/girls who knows way more about performance modding than I do will chime in on this.

[Marcus-SanDiego]

If you add performance stuff (example: intakes and headers)
do you think it would be worth it? I kinda don't.

Yes. I have a friend here in San Diego who has a 500 HP 335. It's a steptronic. But he did more than just headers and intake. He added software management, meth, etc.

I have another friend who put a Dinan supercharger on his 540. It was about 375 HP. Very noticeable.

I have yet another friend who did under drive pulleys, Shark injector, and headers. He noticed it. That was on a 528.

Would you notice headers and intake? Yes. A big difference? Probably not. You'd want to couple that with engine management software (maybe something like AA or Shark).

[L0veZHP]

Thank you guys, I understand I know intake and headers would not make a big difference in any N/A car I was just wondering if it was worth it on an automatic. (Btw my friend took me driving in his manual civic, starting off is so hard! but just driving it after getting it going is easy) I'm just not sure if its worth putting stuff into a N/A car when a turbo car just gets so much more HP from it. And I do know N/A are more reliable im just saying tho.. If my car were a manual I would have bought some performance perks for it.. I just wanted to know how you guys would feel about an automatic with performance parts. (and i also know most true sport cars i think like f1 and nascars and stuff real dragsters are automatic, but when i was driving that civic i was having fun) it made me wish my car was manual

[nike001]

It's all about what you want. Its just the transmission. There are many things that can come into play here for you deciding these things.

I wouldn't really say f1 and dragsters are automatic...they're a few steps ahead of a normal automatic transmission. Nascar uses 4-speed MT's :)

[kpro]

You'll get the added benefit of extra HP/TRQ if you modify your automatic car with a header or intake. Some automatics eat up a lil' more HP(horsepower) than a manual would on the same model of car, with the E46's I'm not sure if that holds true or not. Thats a good question...if someone knows the answer :)

In my experience with this, I can only speak from the Honda/Subaru end of things. We've done countless dyno runs on our custom exhausts & intakes that the guys used to fab up for customers. They all made gains, some more than others depending on the application (car). We put these parts on automatics too, and they showed HP/TRQ gains as well. We never had the thought to test or document manuals VS. autos on the same products. This is mainly because 90% of our customers had manual transmission cars.

When I refer to your "butt dyno" its the feeling that your car seems faster after putting a mod on it. Its honestly really hard for us to notice a 5-10 hp gain that a header or intake will make for our cars by just driving it (unless you drive a 95 Civic that only had 90hp to begin with)...its more of a subconcious thing, you know you made your car faster so it feels faster. The NSX is prime example...a custom 3" stainless exhaust freed up an additional 24 WHP!! (biggest gain we ever saw from an exhaust on a non-turbo car, the stock was 2.25" pipe, lol) 24 WHP is about 10% of its stock dyno number, a 10% gain in power if you will. The intake being changed on the car only freed up 2 WHP...though it seemed MUCH faster once the intake was installed vs. when we installed only the exhaust, probably because it sounds meaner. Butt Dyno fail right there.

I would do some research on the particular parts you're looking at and see if anyone has dyno numbers to see if its something worth your time/money before you buy it. You probably won't feel the added HP, but then again...you might its all up to your butt dyno :)

*edit* LoveZHP: I have a turbo prelude (with no internal engine modification) thats been turbo'd for 5-6 years and has 60k mi. on it being turbo'd. I drive the shit out of that car and haven't had a single problem concerning reliability. If the car has been built right, upgraded fuel delivery and proper tuning for the amount of boost you're running, then you shouldn't have any issues with reliability concerning your engine.

[Marcus-SanDiego]

Kristen, I believe that automatics experience more parasitic loss than manuals -- whether it's a BMW or a Honda.

Can one of the physics gurus jump in and explain why autos do experience more loss, though? I'm interested.

[M0nk3y]

Automatic transmission systems use a torque converter to control gear ratios as the car increases or decreases in speed. The automatic gearbox uses a system of hydraulic controls that take the energy put out by the engine and monitor it, shifting gears accordingly. While most of the engine's energy is still used to do the same work as a manual system, it goes through an additional step which consumes some energy, albeit only a small amount. The torque converter will always use some power to do its job, no matter its efficiency.

Read more: Why Do Automatic Transmission Cars Get Less Gas Mileage Than Standard Transmissions? | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how-does_5801553_do-gas-mileage-standard-transmissions_.html#ixzz1L1NgjxRj

Just a better way than I would phrase it

[kpro]

They do...I just don't know how much of a loss or to what degree. Not enough to forget about modding your auto trans car altogether :) Hondas are not that bad in comparison manual vs. auto, I just don't have solid numbers saying the parasitic loss is this much on a manual and this much on an auto. I was googling while trying to type out my reply...and gave up, lol.

[kayger12]

I would think that the auto trans has more HP loss because they generally have more mass than a MT. More mass requires more energy to move. :dunno

Some auto techie needs to give us the 411 on this.

[Marcus-SanDiego]

The number I always hear is 15% loss for manual and 20% for auto. Of course, those are just general numbers.

[Jon D]

But in answer to the basic question can you feel the difference with mods. Simply put yes. From a guy with an auto and debTing about a few more performance mods. Headers next on planning list.

[az3579]

Kristen, I believe that automatics experience more parasitic loss than manuals -- whether it's a BMW or a Honda.

Can one of the physics gurus jump in and explain why autos do experience more loss, though? I'm interested.

This. I can't explain why, either, just confirming.


I would think that the auto trans has more HP loss because they generally have more mass than a MT. More mass requires more energy to move. :dunno

Some auto techie needs to give us the 411 on this.

I don't think it's due to mass. Perhaps more to the way it operates with a torque converter and all that. I could have sworn that the TC had something to do with some of the loss.

The only way I see an auto being slower than a manual is at launch, because you can't get a proper launch with an auto. But, once it's revved up, it doesn't really matter that much, and depending on how good the auto is and how bad the manual driver is, it could potentially even shift faster. This is more dependant on driver skill though. The manual in the hands of a skilled driver, would allow for a more effective launch, and that alone may make the difference on whether a drag race is won or lost.

In the end, it doesn't matter which you have, because as everyone else said, you will see performance gains regardless of what transmission you have, so don't be discouraged by which tranny you currently have as every mod that applies to the manual applies to the auto as well, with the exception of the CDV delete!

[Crickett]

Automatic transmission systems use a torque converter to control gear ratios as the car increases or decreases in speed. The automatic gearbox uses a system of hydraulic controls that take the energy put out by the engine and monitor it, shifting gears accordingly. While most of the engine's energy is still used to do the same work as a manual system, it goes through an additional step which consumes some energy, albeit only a small amount. The torque converter will always use some power to do its job, no matter its efficiency.

Read more: Why Do Automatic Transmission Cars Get Less Gas Mileage Than Standard Transmissions? | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how-does_5801553...#ixzz1L1NgjxRjJust a better way than I would phrase it


I would think that the auto trans has more HP loss because they generally have more mass than a MT. More mass requires more energy to move. :dunno

Some auto techie needs to give us the 411 on this.
These guys have the two major factors in an auto's loss: more mass & the torque converter. The additional mass isn't a huge factor, but probably the second largest factor behind the TC.

As I understand it, an auto's TC can never transmit 100% of the engine's input power like a manual's mechanical clutch can: the fluid coupling will always have some small amount of "slip". That should be where you get a ~5% loss compared to an equivalent manual.

[95m3ltw]

As I understand it, an auto's TC can never transmit 100% of the engine's input power like a manual's mechanical clutch can: the fluid coupling will always have some small amount of "slip". That should be where you get a ~5% loss compared to an equivalent manual.

Actually that is the case with older automatics. The E46 automatic has a lockup torque converter which will lock 100% in 3-5th gears, not sure at what rpm though. The issue of where a automatic loses compared to manual is the amount of slipping at start vs a good drive in a manual, slippage when shifting gears as not to be abrupt and gear ratios.

[nike001]

With all this auto/manual talk..how many of you MT guys can actually catch 2nd? I never really try to, but I noticed i barely can. I'll do a little peep and thats about it. It seems to pop ahead when I engage 2nd, peeps, then slows down..then starts accelerating again.. hmm (yes DSC is off momentarily)

[ZSP-Mafia]

With all this auto/manual talk..how many of you MT guys can actually catch 2nd? I never really try to, but I noticed i barely can. I'll do a little peep and thats about it. It seems to pop ahead when I engage 2nd, peeps, then slows down..then starts accelerating again.. hmm (yes DSC is off momentarily)

With the 3.38 diff, I can get the whole ass-end to kick out when I shift into second. :)

[nike001]

With the 3.38 diff, I can get the whole ass-end to kick out when I shift into second. :)

new addition to mod list
>>3.38 diff

[ZSP-Mafia]

The only downside is not having a 6th gear, but that's a moot point for you.

Took this about a year ago. Car actually pulls much harder now.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DqdMBulurs&feature=youtube_gdata_player

[az3579]

With all this auto/manual talk..how many of you MT guys can actually catch 2nd? I never really try to, but I noticed i barely can. I'll do a little peep and thats about it. It seems to pop ahead when I engage 2nd, peeps, then slows down..then starts accelerating again.. hmm (yes DSC is off momentarily)

You can catch 2nd perfectly if you rev match. Accelerate to the desired shifting point, then let off the throttle, in goes the clutch pedal, wait for the revs to drop to where they should be (probably will be a good second before it falls enough), into second and dump the clutch. If done correctly, you will experience absolutely zero judder, very easy 2nd gear engagement, and it will be a seamless shift.

You can either rev match and have a perfect, judder-free 2nd gear shift (even under full throttle acceleration), or you can quickly but not violently shift into 2nd. It may seem to bog a little bit, but it's still faster than rev-matching it. I only use this method if I have to accelerate VERY rapidly onto the Parkway (some of the onramps have a stop sign at the top!) or if I feel like embarrassing the guy who pulled into the wrong lane next to me at a stop light with the intention of cutting me off (I rarely do this though).

[shecks7]

headers and a exaust is a great start, ESS supercharge it with Dinan software and it being a automatic or not, it will make a difference. She'll make you proud and will throw you back in the seat compared to a civic manual, its well worth it man.

[nike001]

az3579, I can usually get a nice judder-free 2nd gear. But I'm talking about getting some wheel spin. I don't see why anyone rev-matches upshifts..

[lilcdkey]

My brother has a Steptronic 335xi and he now has 400+ whp. The JB4/Meth made the biggest impact.

[az3579]

az3579, I can usually get a nice judder-free 2nd gear. But I'm talking about getting some wheel spin. I don't see why anyone rev-matches upshifts..

A judder free 2nd-gear shift is a rev-matched upshift. That's why.
All it is, is waiting for the revs to drop where they belong to dump the clutch. There isn't as much to rev-matching an upshift (waiting for revs to fall to dump clutch) than to rev-matching a downshift (by blipping the throttle while downshifting with clutch in). They're the same thing.

[nike001]

A judder free 2nd-gear shift is a rev-matched upshift. That's why.
All it is, is waiting for the revs to drop where they belong to dump the clutch. There isn't as much to rev-matching an upshift (waiting for revs to fall to dump clutch) than to rev-matching a downshift (by blipping the throttle while downshifting with clutch in). They're the same thing.

I know what rev-matching is! lol:rofl

[az3579]

I know what rev-matching is! lol:rofl

So why'd you ask why anyone bothers rev-matching upshifts? lol
I figured the answer would be obvious... for judder-free shifts... :rofl


az3579, I can usually get a nice judder-free 2nd gear. But I'm talking about getting some wheel spin. I don't see why anyone rev-matches upshifts..

[nike001]

So why'd you ask why anyone bothers rev-matching upshifts? lol
I figured the answer would be obvious... for judder-free shifts... :rofl

lol it was just me saying i'm not sure why people do it. not how people do it.

My original question was if anyone can get wheelspin from 1st into 2nd :) (because i barely can...just a peep)

[95m3ltw]

lol it was just me saying i'm not sure why people do it. not how people do it.

My original question was if anyone can get wheelspin from 1st into 2nd :) (because i barely can...just a peep)

Sure, well I dont in our auto, but its not hard in nearly any newer car with 200+ hp. Now the bigger question, is why would you want to get wheelspin? Are you asking as in "barking 2nd" like 16yr olds leaving school? No reason to try unless you are trying to show off to people that are easily impressed. It only shows poor shifting technique and it's abusive to the drivetrain because you are simply trying to abruptly apply torque to over come the available traction of the wheels.

I've spun all 4 wheels in 2nd, 3rd and bit of 4th but that was in a highly modified 997 Turbo and I was actually trying NOT to spin the wheels on the way to a high 11 quarter mile.

[WOLFN8TR]

I'm curious.

This is my first BMW and I have a Steptronic. I personally love driving my auto ZHP but my question is for those of you that have driven both manual and auto ZHP's can you tell or feel a huge difference?

[johnrando]

I thought there would be a huge difference, and by no means is this scientific as I didn't get to drive it hard: but I've only driven STEP and when I did have a chance to take a manual around the block recently, it didn't seem all that different to me. The manual driver said the same when he drove my STEP.

[WOLFN8TR]

That's good to hear. I really was starting to wonder if I was missing out on a big performance difference. I was considering buying this 6MT I found for sale and selling my ZHP.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2005-BMW-330CI-ZHP-PERFORMANCE-PACKAGE-6-SPEED-/290613017795?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item43a9e2bcc3#ht_1356wt_1064

I really like my auto ZHP, it seems plenty fast to me. Everytime I drive it I say "Man I love this car"!

Thanks John!

[johnrando]

You're welcome. To be clear, I do have an AA tune and a BMW Perf. Intake, but those things wouldn't make up for a big difference regardless.

[WOLFN8TR]

Where did you get the AA tune and what's the cost?

[johnrando]

It was a group buy, $300 at Auto Talent in West LA, and $50 to install. You could also send in your DME to AA but I didn't want to wait, plus the shipping costs would be the same or more as the local install cost. There is a list of installers on the AA site. I think list price the tune is over $450?

[WOLFN8TR]

Cool. Is it worth it for $450? What is the difference?

[az3579]

I"m going to go out on a limb and say that I can't quite agree with John on this one...
I've driven a couple of comparable E46's, one auto and one manual, and have to say that even while the manual one still doesn't feel like all that fast of a car, it still feels much faster off the line than the auto. When you mash it on the line, the auto kinda goes "wha, huh? Oh yeah, let's go!" while with the manual you can control the launch and get a much more effective start off the line. Then, once you rev the thing up, the difference gets much smaller, but overall, the manual can provide more oomph, even if that oomph is very minor. I think it has something to do with the way the trannies help put the power down...

Then again, I don't have any hard data of my own, but all tests that I have seen seem to point to that conclusion as well.

Also note, that the "huge difference" I'm referring to is measured in tenths of a second. :)

[danewilson77]

I wonder if auto vs. manual dyno's yield any data?

[johnrando]

No issues with the disagreement. As I said, I thought it would be greater, and the 0-60 ET is quicker on the manual than the STEP. It just didn't feel enough to me, in that small test, to be that much.

Secondly, for me, at $350, the AA tune was worth it. A little better throttle response, slightly better growl, better gas mileage (16+ to 19+ city driving). All things that mean something to me. It's not dramatic though. At nearly $500, it's getting suspect IMHO. I've said many times before that I don't need this car to be fast, but doing little things to make it "fast enough" are worth it to me. This was one of those little things that adds up. At $450 (plus shipping, etc), I'd be hesitant. (Of course, if money were no issue, I'd supercharge it! :) )

[az3579]

No issues with the disagreement. As I said, I thought it would be greater, and the 0-60 ET is quicker on the manual than the STEP. It just didn't feel enough to me, in that small test, to be that much.

Secondly, for me, at $350, the AA tune was worth it. A little better throttle response, slightly better growl, better gas mileage (16+ to 19+ city driving). All things that mean something to me. It's not dramatic though. At nearly $500, it's getting suspect IMHO. I've said many times before that I don't need this car to be fast, but doing little things to make it "fast enough" are worth it to me. This was one of those little things that adds up. At $450 (plus shipping, etc), I'd be hesitant. (Of course, if money were no issue, I'd supercharge it! :) )

The thing is, nobody buys an automatic car to be fast. Hell, even the manual one. If someone wanted a fast car, they'd buy something with forced induction or more cylinders! A few tenths of a second is nothing. If it was a full second or more, then that would be a different story, but I don't think there are ANY cars that have that huge of a difference between the auto and the manual.


So, John... about that blower. :biggrin

[johnrando]

So, John... about that blower. :biggrin

:rofl

[WOLFN8TR]

Well put John. Even just the 3 mpg gain would be nice. Right now I get 22 mpg.
Thanks for the info.

[az3579]

Well put John. Even just the 3 mpg gain would be nice. Right now I get 22 mpg.
Thanks for the info.

It's not the car you drive, it's how you drive it. ;)

[WOLFN8TR]

When you mash it on the line, the auto kinda goes "wha, huh? Oh yeah, let's go!" while with the manual you can control the launch and get a much more effective start off the line.

Ya I had this happen yesterday when I tried racing someone from a light. Sucks!

[az3579]

Ya I had this happen yesterday when I tried racing someone from a light. Sucks!

Yeah. And auto's don't like neutral drops, either. :biggrin
Quick way to destroy your tranny.

[johnrando]

Ya I had this happen yesterday when I tried racing someone from a light. Sucks!

Part of the reason I want the Sprint Booster.

[WOLFN8TR]

Just snagged a Sprint Booster off eBay for $90 shipped!
Curious to see how it works.

[danewilson77]

Just snagged a Sprint Booster off eBay for $90 shipped!
Curious to see how it works.

Used, or what?

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

[WOLFN8TR]

Used. Guy had it on his 2007 325. It's the first version, no button to adjust the settings.

[webster]

i <3 my SB

[WOLFN8TR]

I remember seeing that you recently bought one. Is it the new version or old? What did you notice after installing it?
You have a manual thou....

[webster]

i bought the newer version (paid full price tho)

the throttle response is much superior w/ the SB. the car "feels" faster because you don't have to mash the pedal down to get the revs going. the green light setting is where i leave it, red is pretty touchy and not really necessary for DD activity.

i think regardless of transmission type, the SB is a great mod. i just wish rando could get his to work :(

[WOLFN8TR]

Cool. I'm looking forward to it. I just hope it's not to sensitive.

[webster]

yeah, even if you don't like it you can always throw it right back up on ebay.

[WOLFN8TR]

No Doubt....

[danewilson77]

Used. Guy had it on his 2007 325. It's the first version, no button to adjust the settings.

Copy...

[johnrando]

i bought the newer version (paid full price tho)

the throttle response is much superior w/ the SB. the car "feels" faster because you don't have to mash the pedal down to get the revs going. the green light setting is where i leave it, red is pretty touchy and not really necessary for DD activity.

i think regardless of transmission type, the SB is a great mod. i just wish rando could get his to work :(

Thanks for the thought. Me too. Might try a different source, it would be strange that 2 would have a problem, so it's not likely the SB, but because the others seem to be working OK, I just want to give it one more try. The problem is, I don't want to go through ebay or CL as I may likely need to return, and that could be a issue.

[mikeyb74]

I love my SB...

[WOLFN8TR]

Got the Sprint Booster in the mail today, will install it tomorrow and report back.

Sprint Booster Video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0yrBpL45u-k&feature=related)

[johnrando]

Got the Sprint Booster in the mail today, will install it tomorrow and report back.

Sprint Booster Video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0yrBpL45u-k&feature=related)

I'm not giving up... I've got another one arriving next week. GL Gary.

[danewilson77]

I'm not giving up... I've got another one arriving next week. GL Gary.

Great news. They sent?

[WOLFN8TR]

Update: SPRINT BOOSTER (http://www.sprintboostersales.com/detail.cfm?year=2001&make=bmw&model=3-Series&engine=Gas%20or%20Diesel)
Sprint Booster is installed.
Does it work? YES!

The Positive:
You can notice the difference right away when revving the car in park.
Driving thru my neighborhood the accelerator feels more sensitive.
Accelerating when merging onto the highway the car seems much faster, pedal response time was alot quicker overall.
When you need to pass someone and down shift (auto's) it takes alot less pedal travel to engage. Before I would have to push the pedal all the way to the floor to get it to engage, not now.

The Negative:
The gas pedal is very sensitive, stop and go traffic will be challenging.
You will need to operate the gas pedal like a surgeon.
When down shifting (Auto's) to pass it seems to hold the lower gear too long before up shifting even after completely taking your foot off the gas pedal.
Wet roads or snow would be very challenging.
When my wife drives my car it will make me nervous!

* My Sprint Booster is the original version*
I can see how the newer version with the 3 different program settings would be nice.
Sort mode (green) would be perfect for daily driving in the city.
Race mode (red) would be good for freeway or track driving.

SPRINT BOOSTER (http://www.sprintboostersales.com/detail.cfm?year=2001&make=bmw&model=3-Series&engine=Gas%20or%20Diesel)

Notice the area in the middle of the pedal assembly, that's where the screwdriver has to slide into to get it to disengage.
http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee438/WOLFN8TR/BMW/IMG_6894-1.jpg

Here is the white plastic clip that needs to be pushed down to slide the pedal off to the left.
http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee438/WOLFN8TR/BMW/IMG_6897.jpg
Here is the pedal mounting base.
http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee438/WOLFN8TR/BMW/IMG_6898.jpg
Here is the plug you need to remove. Squeeze the two side and wiggle out.
http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee438/WOLFN8TR/BMW/IMG_6896.jpg

[danewilson77]

Good stuff Wolfy. Thanks

I'm gonna move to product reviews.....

[WOLFN8TR]

Your Welcome.

Will report back after I drive it for awhile. So far I only went about 35 miles with it.

[johnrando]

Great news. They sent?

They send the THIRD one, free. I love that place. They've immediately sent a free return label each time, and sent me out new ones no questions asked, no charge. If you buy one online, I'd highly recommend them.

sprintbooster.us

Gary, could you post a close up pic of the cables connected with your installed booster, or is everything already buttoned up? If so, no worries.

[WOLFN8TR]

I will be out of town away from my car until Monday. I will take them when I get back.

[DirtyPillows]

Sprint boost is similiar to removing the cdv valve? Has anyone sat in both types?

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk

[az3579]

Sprint boost is similiar to removing the cdv valve? Has anyone sat in both types?

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk

No, they have nothing to do with each other. The CDV only affects manual transmission cars, and only its shifting behaviour. The Sprint Booster affects throttle response; nothing to do with shifting.

[WOLFN8TR]

Gary, could you post a close up pic of the cables connected with your installed booster, or is everything already buttoned up? If so, no worries.

OEM Plug on Pedal
http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee438/WOLFN8TR/BMW/IMG_6926.jpg
OEM Plug End
http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee438/WOLFN8TR/BMW/IMG_6928.jpg
Sprint Booster (Original Version)
http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee438/WOLFN8TR/BMW/IMG_6933.jpg
Sprint Booster end that goes onto the OEM Plug
http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee438/WOLFN8TR/BMW/IMG_6932.jpg
Sprint Booster End that goes onto the Gas Pedal
http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee438/WOLFN8TR/BMW/IMG_6931.jpg
Sprint Booster Plugged into Gas Pedal
http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee438/WOLFN8TR/BMW/IMG_6923.jpg
Sprint Booster Plugged into OEM Plug
http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee438/WOLFN8TR/BMW/IMG_6922.jpg

[WOLFN8TR]

Update:

After driving my car for awhile today and attempting to get use to the Sprint Booster I decided to remove it. I put approx 50 miles on the car in stop and go traffic and highway use. Here is what led to my decision.

1. The gas pedal is way too Sensitive overall.
2. Stop and Go traffic with the SB installed is dangerous to say the least.
3. Several times while accelerating the car holds the lower gear way to long and will not up shift even with my foot off the gas pedal.
4. From a complete stop the car lunges forward uncontrollably.
5. Highway driving at approx 75 mph and above the gas pedal is way too Sensitive, barely touch the pedal and the car downshifts as to pass.
6. I couldn't even imagine driving in the Rain or Snow with the SB installed.
7. There is NO WAY I can let my wife drive my ZHP with this thing installed!

Anyone that is familiar with "Trigger Creep" will understand when I say the SB totally removes it. Turns your gas pedal into a Surgical instrument...

As previous stated on the newer version the "RED" setting is too Sensitive for Daily Driving. I would imagine the "GREEN" setting would be a nice compromise.

[WOLFN8TR]

Apparently the Sprint Booster didn't want to come out!

http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee438/WOLFN8TR/BMW/IMG_6927.jpg

[Hermes]

that sucks, i guess it is 6 year old plastic. are you gonna get a new one from the stealership? also, are you gonna get the updated SB with the 3 settings (off/sport/extreme)?

[johnrando]

Gary, thanks for the pics. BTW, that white "pedal holder" is only $7 from ECS. Ask me how I know. :) And yes, sounds like you would benefit from the adjustable SB.

[WOLFN8TR]

that sucks, i guess it is 6 year old plastic. are you gonna get a new one from the stealership? also, are you gonna get the updated SB with the 3 settings (off/sport/extreme)?

I would like the newer version but....$300. I don't know maybe later.


Gary, thanks for the pics. BTW, that white "pedal holder" is only $7 from ECS. Ask me how I know. :) And yes, sounds like you would benefit from the adjustable SB.

Your welcome

Oh ya I remember you broke yours also. I was trying to becareful and SNAP. Oh well $7 I can swing it. Hey John if the 3rd SB doesn't work you can try mine. It works fo sho....:biggrin

[johnrando]

Thanks Gary, might have to take you up on that. Hoping 3rd time's the charm. :biggrin

[webster]

i'm wondering if the earlier version of the SB is the "red" setting only, that's what it sounds like. also it might be harder to couple the SB traits with an automatic trans. i can totally see the downshifting at high speeds thing being a PITA and somewhat dangerous. in a manual, it's perfect when you're in 5th or 6th and don't feel like d/s just for a quick punch of the throttle. but if you can't control it or have to keep it in sport mode at all times i can see why you'd want to remove it.

for those considering, i would suggest trying the newer one. it's satisfaction guaranteed so you can effectively try it out for only the $9 cost of return shipping should you choose not to stay with it.

[WOLFN8TR]

Ya I agree totally. Does seem like the "Red" extreme mode. I might have to give the newer version a try, the 30 day trial is nice. I did like some of the benefits, toned down a bit would be perfect.

[WOLFN8TR]

Gary, thanks for the pics. BTW, that white "pedal holder" is only $7 from ECS. Ask me how I know. :) And yes, sounds like you would benefit from the adjustable SB.

Hey John do you have the part number for the pedal bracket? I can't seem to find it on ECS....

[johnrando]

description quantity each total
ADAPTER PLATE ES#63878

35426772703 1 $7.46 $7.46

[WOLFN8TR]

Awesome. Thanks

[webster]

i broke that little clip too. don't care about fixing it.

[johnrando]

Also posted in "what did you do for you zhp today" and on my project thread, but I wanted to let you know specifically for this thread that the SB worked! Third time was the charm. I really like the throttle response so far, I'm pumped. Thanks for all the good "CARma" thoughts you all sent my way. Can't wait to give it a better shake out.

[danewilson77]

Congrats John. Good sticktoitness.

HTC Thunderbolt+TT

[kayger12]

Also posted in "what did you do for you zhp today" and on my project thread, but I wanted to let you know specifically for this thread that the SB worked! Third time was the charm. I really like the throttle response so far, I'm pumped. Thanks for all the good "CARma" thoughts you all sent my way. Can't wait to give it a better shake out.

Good deal, John. Glad it worked out for you.

Droid X. Tapatalk. Use it.

[johnrando]

Thanks Dane and Keith.