2004 IR Sedan in Mass - Anyone know this car?

[JJR4884]

Hi all - shot in the dark here but I test drove a zhp today and would love if anyone on here knows this car or if the owner is a member here. Apparently he’s had it for 12 years and is a BMW CCA member. Lots of receipts with the car which is a good sign.

2004 ZHP Sedan - Imola/black leather
175,000 miles
6 speed
Had some rust on the quarters and under the trunk but an auto body just did some work and removed the rust
Doesn’t have M135’s - sitting on 17in 6-spoke generic looking rims wrapped in blizzacks
AFE intake

Outside of the intake and rims, everything else appears to be all stock.

Car is located in Shrewsbury MA at an Indy dealership only a couple miles from BMW Shrewsbury who I am contacting tomorrow to do a PPI.

I was shocked how well the car drives, not a creak or rattle inside, shifts and steering feel tight considering 175k is on the clock. Interior is in really good condition outside of the pillar fabric - no concern there. I also plugged in to the OBD2 - no CEL and I checked the monitors, nothing was reset recently so I’m confident that this car is in fairly good operating condition. P0171/P0174 is pending, not permanent - intake boot or DISA most likely.

WBAEV534X4KM06605 is the VIN - the only thing I can find on the car is that it EAG sold it when the car had 40k on the clock

16 year long e46 owner here. If anyone is familiar with this car I’d greatly appreciate any info. Car was originally going for $7k but the dealer now wants $10k after spending a couple thousand at the body shop. Seriously considering this if the PPI comes back with no major concerns

Appreciate any help here!


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[fredo]

Some of us post the VIN here, but i dont see that one:

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?8134-What-s-your-number&p=612568#post612568

Sounds like a solid car, please keep us posted.

[TrKy3]

Don't know of the car, but that seems fair.
As far as "rust repair," as long as the subframe points are OK, then you should be alright.
These cars do not usually rip subframes unless they are rusted or supercharged (as they do not have as much torque as their m3 counterparts in stock form).
Check the inside of the trunk (for rust).

Make sure the front strut towers check out as well (during PPI).

You can source a set of 135s in excellent condition with tires for $1000-$1500, so that shouldn't be a deal breaker.

175K isn't bad, these motors are good for 250K-300K before needing a rebuild if religiously maintained. I'd rather a higher mileage car that was maintained, than a lower mileage car that needs a lot of deferred maintenance.

Good luck!

[JJR4884]

Some of us post the VIN here, but i dont see that one:

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?8134-What-s-your-number&p=612568#post612568

Sounds like a solid car, please keep us posted.


Thank you - i did come across that but as you are already aware, that car/vin wasn't in there. I am taking it for another spin and a PPI on Friday and will decide by then what I am doing. Fingers crossed she comes back as good as she felt driving

[JJR4884]

Don't know of the car, but that seems fair.
As far as "rust repair," as long as the subframe points are OK, then you should be alright.
These cars do not usually rip subframes unless they are rusted or supercharged (as they do not have as much torque as their m3 counterparts in stock form).
Check the inside of the trunk (for rust).

Make sure the front strut towers check out as well (during PPI).

You can source a set of 135s in excellent condition with tires for $1000-$1500, so that shouldn't be a deal breaker.

175K isn't bad, these motors are good for 250K-300K before needing a rebuild if religiously maintained. I'd rather a higher mileage car that was maintained, than a lower mileage car that needs a lot of deferred maintenance.

Good luck!

Appreciate the response. My concern is if the rust was half-assed its going to come back in no time. I don't need this $10k to be another $5k cost at an auto body shop a year or two down the road. I'm really hoping it was fixed properly and before I commit to buying the car, I am going to ask to talk to the auto body who did the repair and see what sort of "guarantee" they are willing to offer. If they tell me they will cover any rust that comes back in 12 months i'll have a lot more faith in their work.

When you say check inside the trunk for rust, where am i looking? You want me to take the lining out or should i be looking in the spare tire area? I love that these engines are capable of so much - my 2004 non-zhp 330 coupe is at 246k with the original clutch and still runs like a top. Unfortunately the rust is just unbearable so its time to upgrade and get into a car that is essentially 100% stock.

[TrKy3]

Check towards the rear of the car (inside or outside trunk), may need to take liner out, but if the rust is starting you can usually start to see it bubble without removing anything.

Here is an example:

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?23696-FS-1-of-3-Oxford-Green-SB-sedans-Manual/page3

Smart idea on the guarantee.

[JJR4884]

Awesome thank you - that is an area that they actually fixed but i'll give a closer look

[fredo]

Also, try to find out if they used good quality paint. The cheap one will fade very quickly. My co-worker took his touring to Maaco for a full respray job. It looked great in the beginning but after one year the paint was already dull.

[JJR4884]

Will do thanks again

[cakM3]

I would never take my cars to Maaco for a full respray job. Why do something twice?? I would rather do this once even if it costs much more to have the job done right.

[JJR4884]

Passed on the car. Mechanically she felt and looked really good but the auto body really botched the job last week. They essentially bondo-ed the rear quarters (holes and all) and didn’t weld any sheet metal, there was a gaping rusted hole inside the rear passenger fender close to the jack point, and on top of all that, they didn’t even fix dings and dents on the places they painted - they just painted over it. Absolutely atrocious.

The inside lips of the quarters were still exposed metal and rust, so they didn’t even paint the entire effing piece. Oh and half of the trunk jamb was painted with glossy clear coat - that didn’t look ghetto at all

Disappointed but happily letting that one go. That car needs about $7500 in proper body work, and it needs the original rims. At that price it’s like paying $20k for a 175k mile ZHP. Yea nope


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[JJR4884]

I would never take my cars to Maaco for a full respray job. Why do something twice?? I would rather do this once even if it costs much more to have the job done right.

You’d be surprised but a good friend of mine years ago did a ton of body work, sanding, priming, taping, etc on his car and brought it to Maaco - I mean he really did a thorough job and the paint wasn’t half bad. Granted this was not a bmw but a celica that now looked great from 10 feet away for $700 and some elbow grease.


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[cakM3]

You’d be surprised but a good friend of mine years ago did a ton of body work, sanding, priming, taping, etc on his car and brought it to Maaco - I mean he really did a thorough job and the paint wasn’t half bad. Granted this was not a bmw but a celica that now looked great from 10 feet away for $700 and some elbow grease.

Like I said Jonathan, if it's worth doing then do it right the first time around. I would want the car to look good standing right next to it, not 10 feet away . . .

You're doing the right thing passing on a car you're not completely happy with. Better off waiting for the right ZHP my friend, you will be much happier in the long run :thumbsup

[JJR4884]

Oh yea I will be patient for the right one no doubt


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[fredo]

You're doing the right thing passing on a car you're not completely happy with.

+1. There are good ones out there.