Overheated causing 3 other problems

[Dathaeus]

My Mobile Mech replaced a busted upper radiator hose (was basically falling off the low side)

Still overheated, OMG.... now he says its also the coolant reservoir tank and the electric cooling fan.

Are these ok to buy used here or... maybe I should just get new ones right?

He quoted me "around $300" which is probably pretty fair? (didn't think his charging me $100 for the hose replace was fair though, not sure why he charged so much when he admitted it was like 30 min... FYI he charged $90 to replace my right front window regulator which took over an hour (even though he actually did a crappy job on that one))


And besides FCPEuro, what was the other online shop that was great?

Will anyone here use like Advanced Auto Parts? I got the hose quickly from there, sure that wasn't a big deal.....

[cakM3]

Why are you paying someone to replace a window regulator when you can easily do this yourself??? When replacing critical parts in the engine bay go with OEM parts. DON'T CHEAP OUT on your car or you will end up with more unwanted issues...

[sillieidiot]

Why are you using that same guy that is doing a crappy job on all your stuff so far to fix a CRITICAL part of your car? lol

Yeah, just buy it from online sites. Shop around if you don't need the lifetime warranty from FCP euro. Everything costs a bit more there to factor in the warranty. You can buy used stuff, but for the cooling system, I wouldn't lol Either get aftermarket that is better than OE or just go OEM.

Just DIY cooling system overhaul. You can do it. It's not that hard.

[az3579]

Go brand new OE on the expansion tank but you can probably get away with a used fan if it was known good when it was pulled.

I do not buy parts from Advance as a lot of their parts are of mediocre quality.

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[John in VA]

You need to consider the mechanic's diagnostic or exam time/fee. Yes, it should be easy to replace an upper radiator hose, but finding the weak link in a cooling system can take a bit more digging. You should consider buying cooling system parts from FCP if you plan on keeping the car for a few years - it's the car's Achilles heel!

How did he do a crappy job replacing the window regulator? Did he damage something? Is your vapor barrier securely fastened so you don't end up with a foot well full of water the next time it rains?

[PdZHP]

I would do an entire cooling system refresh unless you want to go back and replace other parts in the near future.

[Dathaeus]

https://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/330i/?year=2003&m=20&e=180&t=5,6&b=5&d=589&v=&keywords=electric%20fan

Is it the 10, 12 or 16 inch?

And should I order the kit for $12 just to be safe

[az3579]

https://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/330i/?year=2003&m=20&e=180&t=5,6&b=5&d=589&v=&keywords=electric%20fan

Is it the 10, 12 or 16 inch?

And should I order the kit for $12 just to be safe

None of those; those are all aftermarket.

According to FCP, this is the OEM one:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-auxiliary-fan-assembly-e46-cool-xpert-17117561757


You could probably use the aftermarket ones, but I'm a plug & play kinda guy myself.

[Dathaeus]

None of those; those are all aftermarket.

According to FCP, this is the OEM one:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-auxiliary-fan-assembly-e46-cool-xpert-17117561757


You could probably use the aftermarket ones, but I'm a plug & play kinda guy myself.Sweet thanks, you da man [emoji123][emoji111][emoji106]

I assume it's only one size there unless I'm missing something right

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[az3579]

Sweet thanks, you da man [emoji123][emoji111][emoji106]

I assume it's only one size there unless I'm missing something right

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Don't forget to transfer the AUC module that sits on the fan shroud mounting as the new one doesn't come with one. It's the one the right-side arrow is pointing to (stole this pic from rmeuropean).

https://www.rmeuropean.com/images/e46-power-steering/e46-power-steering-4.jpg

[Dathaeus]

Don't forget to transfer the AUC module that sits on the fan shroud mounting as the new one doesn't come with one. It's the one the right-side arrow is pointing to (stole this pic from rmeuropean).

https://www.rmeuropean.com/images/e46-power-steering/e46-power-steering-4.jpgKk cheers!

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[Dathaeus]

Thanks for always going next level...

The thank, do I need the one with all the extras or can I just get the $100 tank only?
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-expansion-tank-kit-e46-meyle-e46expankit

Mech says lets get the tank first and test for a blown gasket when I suggested we do that before replacing the fan and thermostat etc...

That's the right move right?

(FYI there was no milky film under the oil cap, he checked that twice)

[Pilot05]

You're mobile mechanic is at best a generalist. He may be a good generalist, or he may not be so good.
If I am not going to do it myself, I'll let generalists do brakes, brake fluid flushes, oil changes, etc.

A BMW specialist who knows the E46 does everything else, and particularly anything involving a scanner.

An overheat on your all aluminum engine is potentially a very bad thing.. you need someone who knows the E46 cooling system well to properly diagnose this.

[sillieidiot]

Thanks for always going next level...

The thank, do I need the one with all the extras or can I just get the $100 tank only?
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-expansion-tank-kit-e46-meyle-e46expankit

Mech says lets get the tank first and test for a blown gasket when I suggested we do that before replacing the fan and thermostat etc...

That's the right move right?

(FYI there was no milky film under the oil cap, he checked that twice)

You don't need the tank to test. You can do compression/leak test with it like it is.

The no film under the cap doesn't mean much. I could still leak into the cylinders. If you're suggesting the test, it sounds like your car is way worst off than what you are telling us. I would not buy anything until I do the tests at this point.

[az3579]

You don't need the tank to test. You can do compression/leak test with it like it is.

The no film under the cap doesn't mean much. I could still leak into the cylinders. If you're suggesting the test, it sounds like your car is way worst off than what you are telling us. I would not buy anything until I do the tests at this point.

Perhaps draining the oil could give more of an indication of coolant mixing with the oil. It should be pretty obvious there.

I guess the question needs to be asked: how bad of an overheat are we talking here? Was the coolant gauge reprogramming done on the car (to show REAL temperatures, not that buffered factory garbage coding) or is it still on the stock coding? If it was stock coding and well into the red, you may have a serious problem.

Are you having any symptoms of an overheated engine?

[Will]

Bummer about your overheating problem and the lack of luck with the mobile mechanic so far.

If you have AAA (with the 100 mile tow membership), have it towed to a reputable independent BMW shop and ask them to perform a compression test / diagnosis. It might cost 150, but is worth it, IMO. If you're handy and willing to wrench, a compression gauge isn't that expensive (maybe even free to borrow from O'Reilly's) and it should take an afternoon.

Throwing parts at a problem gets really expensive really quickly, and only compounds the frustration in my experience.

Is using the mobile mechanic because there's no reputable shop within a reasonable distance?

Edit to add:
Seems kind of strange to just jump to the conclusion you need a new fan and expansion tank.
Also, an overheating m54 can be as simple as air in the cooling system - bleeding the system can be finicky.

[sillieidiot]

I just saw OP's post on E46fanatics. I see why you are asking about the test now.



Driving normally in a small city environment, nothing unusual there for the last twenty years.

Then there was some smoke coming out the hood, pretty light, could only tell mostly when I was going under 10 mph and at stop. This probably came from the leak from the house clip/connection getting compromised.

Then the temperature red light came on... I was about couple miles from work, which I had to get to, so as I drove there, the gauge shut down the red light and it went past the red market.

So the car overheated, then you continued driving while in that state? Do the tests because you may have a more serious problem on your hands now.

[t.er]

Yeah... that really isn't great. I'm really hoping for OP that the head gasket hasn't failed

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[az3579]

Yeah... that really isn't great. I'm really hoping for OP that the head gasket hasn't failed

Sent from my SM-G781W using TapatalkThe head gasket would be the least of his concerns.

Top tip: if the temperature even gets NEAR the red, pull over safely and immediately shut it down. Being late is better than shelling out tons of money for a new engine or car.


With that said, have the tests performed before buying anything, as you don't want to throw money at a potentially totaled engine.

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[t.er]

The head gasket would be the least of his concerns.

Top tip: if the temperature even gets NEAR the red, pull over safely and immediately shut it down. Being late is better than shelling out tons of money for a new engine or car.


With that said, have the tests performed before buying anything, as you don't want to throw money at a potentially totaled engine.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using TapatalkWell would the head gasket not fail as a result of warpage of the head itself due to overheating?

Overheating is the achilles heel of our car. I have the buffer removed along with a digital gauge from my eKombi displaying on my nav

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[az3579]

Well would the head gasket not fail as a result of warpage of the head itself due to overheating?

Overheating is the achilles heel of our car. I have the buffer removed along with a digital gauge from my eKombi displaying on my nav

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I've heard of head gaskets failing without head failure, so just wanted to clarify that.

[sillieidiot]

I guess he can s54 swap early. But it doesn't sound like he has money for that...

[Dathaeus]

Thanks guys for the help... The more i read the more I find out what I dont know and its depressing... at the worst F%$^%# time too... I know there's never a GOOD time but this summer has been f%^#$ HELL in every way.

Anyways, no reprogramming done on the gauge, and Yea I drove it quite a bit to get home, I was so angry already and I had no idea any mechanical legit unit would have such a low safety tolerance. I guess in my memory, the last time I was in this situation was when I had tony old Accord and I drove it for weeks over heating and just thought it ran hot. Yes I was like 17 then, my first cars so we dont need to go there.

Anyways knowing that experience actually hurt me here, thinking if that POS ran like that for weeks, how could this amazing car have any trouble running several miles overheated. Anyways, whatever, all that crap doesn't matter anymore.

So my mech (and dont get me started on the all mech stories, it'll take days, for those of you wondering why am I giving this guy a second chance) just replied with this, after I told him we need to check the head gasket, do we still need the tank:

"You need the bottle, it cracked down the side which is common on an old BMW. A compression test won't tell you anything as the motor would have a miss in it if the head or head gasket has just a small failure. There is a kit you can get from Autozone or O'Reilly to test head gasket"

[John in VA]

The mechanic could also check for exhaust in the coolant if he was well-equipped. There are also test sticks as he mentioned.

[Will]

Test the coolant for exhaust gas, first. I remember O'Reilly's (probaby Autozone and Napa, too) will lend you the kit but you have to buy the test fluid (~$10-15).

[Dathaeus]

Well would the head gasket not fail as a result of warpage of the head itself due to overheating?

Overheating is the achilles heel of our car. I have the buffer removed along with a digital gauge from my eKombi displaying on my nav

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Taking it to local reputable mech... I'll up date you guys.

Now i wish I knew there were these achilles heels for this model, where I knew in the past some cars overheat for over an hour and it doesnt affect it in the slightest... but anyways that was a long time ago.

What are the other things we have to look out for in this one that basically have zero safety factor?

[Galapolis]

Taking it to local reputable mech... I'll up date you guys.

Now i wish I knew there were these achilles heels for this model, where I knew in the past some cars overheat for over an hour and it doesnt affect it in the slightest... but anyways that was a long time ago.

What are the other things we have to look out for in this one that basically have zero safety factor?

This is the same for all aluminium block engines. It's only the iron block engines that can take a little overheating.

[sillieidiot]

This is the same for all aluminium block engines. It's only the iron block engines that can take a little overheating.

Yep exactly what I was about to say. It's like all cars nowadays. Maybe diesel are still iron.

[Dathaeus]

This is the same for all aluminium block engines. It's only the iron block engines that can take a little overheating.

Well the physics of that makes total sense... Wish I knew that before, now I just have to pray for the best tomorrow

[Galapolis]

Well the physics of that makes total sense... Wish I knew that before, now I just have to pray for the best tomorrow

For what it's worth, I overheated my M54 for what must have been several minutes or so 4 years ago. Needle was about to touch the red zone (or possibly had already touched it, hard to remember).

After that happened I replaced every single piece in the cooling system because I couldn't figure out what was wrong. I think the culprit was the fan unit, which I also replaced, but I never bothered to confirm that. I was just happy that I was able to fix it.

Over 50k miles later the engine is still fine and pulls hard with no issues. I've done track days, autocross, uphill/downhill touge, everything you could imagine.

[Dathaeus]

For what it's worth, I overheated my M54 for what must have been several minutes or so 4 years ago. Needle was about to touch the red zone (or possibly had already touched it, hard to remember).

After that happened I replaced every single piece in the cooling system because I couldn't figure out what was wrong. I think the culprit was the fan unit, which I also replaced, but I never bothered to confirm that. I was just happy that I was able to fix it.

Over 50k miles later the engine is still fine and pulls hard with no issues. I've done track days, autocross, uphill/downhill touge, everything you could imagine.

Ya my mobile mechanic was hopeful after listening to the engine but no comment necessary on that...

I'm putting every penny into cryptocurrency these days and it'll crush me to have to take a couple grand out of my investments just when they are about to moon...

But as they say, it's never a good time to have to do major work on your car right...

[t.er]

For what it's worth, I overheated my M54 for what must have been several minutes or so 4 years ago. Needle was about to touch the red zone (or possibly had already touched it, hard to remember).

Was the buffer in the coolant temp gauge reduced or stock?

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[Galapolis]

Was the buffer in the coolant temp gauge reduced or stock?

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Stock, this was a month after I bought the car.

[t.er]

Stock, this was a month after I bought the car.

Dayum! Good to know in a very worst-case scenario though.

I ever so slightly overheated mine while bleeding it. Had the temp pulled up on the cluster, it only went to 102-103C and then I got a code for the VANOS exhaust solenoid, along with a very poorly running engine. Pulled the solenoid and pushed it with my finger a few times, reset the code, and all was well.

[Dathaeus]

So the shop said the radiator was all messed up and the lower hose, so those have to be replaced first, cant even do the compression test and exhaust in coolant yet.

$500+ for installing the lower hose, new coolant (that I provided), and the diagnostics so far... seemed a little steep but...

And another $900 or so for the radiator and thermostat that goes with it, installed.

I'll know more Monday night hopefully.

[Dathaeus]

This is a highly rate and vouched for shop near me... Guy was very nice and knowledgeable... he said the particles from the busted plastic impeller got into the radiator and was clogging it with pretty much zero air flow through it.

Seems a little expensive but there is only one thing that actually worries me.



He said everything seemed fine after all this.

The one thing I have noticed is that in low RPM especially in 1st-2nd gear, I feel a little shimmy in the throttle (max about 2-3 times, as if the power to the engine is getting interrupted by milliseconds) when starting out... It is not totally obvious (where you might think it is just bad timing on the shift) but it is definitely there that wasn't before all this. If I start the gas nice and slow it rarely happens. Once I am on the road and maintain RPM's, its smooth as silk again. Power seems fine, sounds all fine.

Is this something that will go away in time or is this a sign of much worse to come?

If I do everything slow and perfect, this isn't something that would be a serious problem for me, just a bit annoying, but that's not really my main concern.

38534

[az3579]

Well, that is pretty expensive, but taking into account the markup they put on the parts, it's not unexpected. As for labor, they probably spent a good amount of time troubleshooting one bad part after another. The compounded issues piled up explains the labor cost.

At least you don't need an engine, so that's good.

[Dathaeus]

Well, that is pretty expensive, but taking into account the markup they put on the parts, it's not unexpected. As for labor, they probably spent a good amount of time troubleshooting one bad part after another. The compounded issues piled up explains the labor cost.

At least you don't need an engine, so that's good.Well, so far right....
So no idea what that little shimmy could be? Its definitely not normal... And if it doesn't go away, I wouldn't even know what to test for it...

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[sillieidiot]

I would check for a vacuum leak at the usual places. intake hoses, tb, icv, disa. everything in that area lol

[Dathaeus]

I would check for a vacuum leak at the usual places. intake hoses, tb, icv, disa. everything in that area lolKk thanks!

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[Dave1027]

You should scan the computer for codes.

[Dathaeus]

Uhggggggggg.... today the car shimmied for one whole stretch of driving, for about 5-6 minutes, even with it in idle, until I stopped and started and it "straightened" itself out, but it is still there during low RPM acceleration... scared the crap out of me... Doesn't help either right now I am working 12 hours a day all over the place, makes this whole process a lot crappier FML

[Will]

Any updates? As Dave1027 mentioned, I'm also wondering if any codes popped up.

[Dathaeus]

Still troubleshooting, some say the DISA valve and possibly the vanos line / o-rings... I got the parts, just trying to figure out if I can test before I pay this freakin shop near stealer fees again since my guy is out for another 2 months, FML... DISA replace seems pretty easy, maybe a 10 min job, but might still pay the shop whatever, maybe $70 to get it done and move on with life.

[John in VA]

Sorry, but you need to learn to do the work on your car. I sold my wife's 2000 328i to the neighbor's 16 y/o son & he's read the Bentley manual & watched 50s Kid YouTube videos to work on it.

[Galapolis]

Sorry, but you need to learn to do the work on your car. I sold my wife's 2000 328i to the neighbor's 16 y/o son & he's read the Bentley manual & watched 50s Kid YouTube videos to work on it.

Agreed, I had never touched anything on a car nor had any knowledge or experience prior to buying my E46. I started from scratch and learned to do almost everything. And that was despite relying on the car as a daily. Anything is possible if you have the initiative.

50s Kid is a gold mine, used his VANOS guide which made that job super easy. Generally though there is a video for almost everything you would ever need on YouTube.

[Dathaeus]

Ya that's all great in theory....and what happens when you're halfway into the work and find out one of your tools don't work or fit? Or you drop a screw down where it's nowhere to be found? Or do the work and then the car doesn't start.... Worse yet, dies on the way to work? Or you just can't reach into a spot you need or one of the bolts/screw comes loose?

Sorry but in these older cars, there Murphy's law everywhere... If I didn't work 60 hours / 7 days a week and didn't have 3 other companies/projects I'm trying to get going, believe me, as a mech-e major and one who has succeeded in beating the smartest kids in the world in competition, I am severely tempted to get into this. But in fear of the stupid stuff that can go wrong and no second car just sitting here as backup, unless I rent a Uhaul and risk it (which now looking back, might be cheaper than these aholes who overcharged me, even though most of the reviews and they were VERY reasonable so clearly they read that and raised their prices recently), it's near impossible for me to safely get into working on my car and not risk falling behind on my other jobs.

I know most of you guys have gotten into this, and that's great, you had the op to do that.... But everyone's life is not the same... If I fix my toilet, something goes wrong, I use another bathroom, big deal. This is not that type of situation.

The disa valves looks way easy to replace again in theory... But ima ask this shop and another couple how much and see what's up and go from there. If it's around $60-80 I guess that's fine. If it's way over $100, well....

Might have to rent a Uhaul no matter what.

Appreciate the advice though... just wanted to let you know when from past history regurgitating here, there's a reason I don't work on my car, and unfortunately my ZHP friend here is away 28 days a month now working on aircraft at a remote location so that's just bad timing. Can't ask him to forget about his wife and kids and work on my car instead. ( Actually I did and his wife said no, obviously )

[John in VA]

If that's the case you need to continue to work to make the $$ to pay a trusted pro to do the work for you & accept that it costs what it does. I have plenty of neighbors that don't lift a finger to do things around their houses or cars - they work at their jobs & stroke the checks.

[Will]

I'm curious to know more about this "shimmy." Could you further characterize it? I know you mentioned low RPM, 1st and 2nd gear.

What is the shimmy? is it hesitation / lag in acceleration?

Does it happen any other speeds, or RPMs? I had read about a vanos stumble (not sure if stumble is the right term) where there's a hesitation around 3k RPM, wonder if that's what you're experiencing.

[Dathaeus]

OK!

I think I finally found my new mechanic, until... He said he's worked on the BMW series for 30 years... He has his shop actually right next to my future CBD lab, and he was also willing to come to my location for extra $100, but I took it to him instead, needed to rent a car anyways. (Nissan Sentra, felt like a toy, but thank God for it's Sports Mode)

Super nice guy, he quoted me $50 to install the disa and another $300 for the vanos line and rings, if needed.

Turned out didn't need any of that. And I dunno if the last shop that raped me really checked out not, will be impossible to tell now but this guy said the head gasket was fine, OMG... Best news all freakin year.

He said the third cylinder (I think he said that at first) wasn't firing, and said the coil needed to be replaced. He said coils need to be replaced during tuneups? The other mobile mech did my tuneup several months ago, and obviously he didn't do it. New guy said the rest of the coils should also be replaced, since I don't think one ever replaced them since I owned the car, or at least in several years.

He also replaced a seal by the injector.

Charged me $325 for everything.

I think overall his prices have been the most reasonable out of everyone so far besides my ZHP friend who again, is away.

He also said I should replace the cabin filter, that's "it's in pieces"... I guess that's next along with tires and rear window regulator. I feel like ever all this, I'll basically have a few car that'll last another ten years.

And for some weird reason, the key fob works now? Why would that be?

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[Dathaeus]

I'm curious to know more about this "shimmy." Could you further characterize it? I know you mentioned low RPM, 1st and 2nd gear.

What is the shimmy? is it hesitation / lag in acceleration?

Does it happen any other speeds, or RPMs? I had read about a vanos stumble (not sure if stumble is the right term) where there's a hesitation around 3k RPM, wonder if that's what you're experiencing.Not that this matters now but maybe it'll help you or someone else in the future.

First, the shimmy results in some power loss and noticeable vibration that seems to emanate from the engine. It also does it during idle.

During acceleration, you can "get rid of" the shimmy by over revving the engine a bit in first before full engaging the clutch, almost burning it a bit.

If you don't, there was about a 70% chance the shimmy would remain in all gears, impossible to get rid of until you restart the car.

Once you start moving the car without the shimmy, it ran as normal, beautifully.

Either way, now it's music to my ears again. Just praying there's no hairline damage somewhere around the engine due to the overheating trauma after hearing all the FUD about it. I guess we'll see.

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[Will]

Oh wow, so it was a bad coil. Glad you found the new mechanic and got it sorted out.

[Dathaeus]

Oh wow, so it was a bad coil. Glad you found the new mechanic and got it sorted out.Hopefully that's it....
Still good....
But I think I should replace the other five right, I don't remember replacing them before do probably not a good idea to just replace one

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[sillieidiot]

It's fine to replace just one. But I mean if you're already there, might as well lol And if you didn't do plugs yet, do that too

[Galapolis]

I replaced one on mine and then two more failed a few weeks later.

[Dathaeus]

Thanks guys...
I think the lesson here is, if its one freak failure it's ok, but if it's been over several years and one goes, maybe it's more responsible to change all?
Especially when this happened after my overheat problem.

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[Will]

It couldn't hurt to change the other 5, budget permitting. It's simple enough, too, so you wouldn't have to pay anyone for the labor (it literally pops off and on with moderate force). And like sillieidot mentioned, might as well change the plugs while you're in there.

[Dathaeus]

It couldn't hurt to change the other 5, budget permitting. It's simple enough, too, so you wouldn't have to pay anyone for the labor (it literally pops off and on with moderate force). And like sillieidot mentioned, might as well change the plugs while you're in there.Ok so meaning this isn't the kinda project where Murphy's law can screw me over big time?

Might actually tackle this one then... For me it's never the actual fix, it's all the bs that can happen outside that pisses me off so I don't deal with it.

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[sillieidiot]

Honestly, murphy's law can hit you even if you have someone else do it, or do nothing at all. If you believe all these things will happen, then just prepare yourself for the worst so you have an answer for the most probably scenarios that will happen. You're going to drop a nut. Get a magnet (or grabber, I personally think the grabber is way more useful), or buy new ones you're going to take off so you have extra. Get the tools you need for the job so you don't leave anything up to chance.

I always go in thinking this is going to take longer than it should. Then when I finish early, I'm like I missed something and recheck my work lol

But that job is on the easier end. It took me an hour going real slow to stop and take pictures for to document the process for JR. I even took the time to take a picture of every spark plug I pulled out. Otherwise I would have done it in like less than half that.

[Dathaeus]

Honestly, murphy's law can hit you even if you have someone else do it, or do nothing at all. If you believe all these things will happen, then just prepare yourself for the worst so you have an answer for the most probably scenarios that will happen. You're going to drop a nut. Get a magnet (or grabber, I personally think the grabber is way more useful), or buy new ones you're going to take off so you have extra. Get the tools you need for the job so you don't leave anything up to chance.

I always go in thinking this is going to take longer than it should. Then when I finish early, I'm like I missed something and recheck my work lolGood advice
This means I'll check his quote in labor first and then I'll decide LOL

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