Preventive maintenance @74k miles

[wellcraft]

Ok guys, I bought a 2005 zhp auto transmission with 73k miles on it in mint condition, everything in working order but I do need to replace one of the brake sensors. I would like to do a full preventive maintenance and I would like to see if I'm missing something. I already own a e92 m3 with 49k miles and love it but been wanting a zhp since I saw one for the first time back in 2005. I also used to have an e36 m3.

So back to the question, I was thinking about
Cooling system rebuild kit from fcp that cost about $600, should I replace the radiator also?
Belts
Flush brakes
Air and cabin filter
Spark plugs
Maybe flush the power steering?????
Rear differential oil
Fuel filter
Should I replace coils packs?

I mean, I would like to replace whatever is need it, mainly due to age. I don't want to waste money but I'm willing to replace whatever is necessary to keep it as reliable as possible.

The car got an oil change the day I picked it up, last Tuesday but im changing it anyways.

Planning on reinforcing the weak areas for the shock and struts mounts just to be safe as well although I don't plan to abuse the car, lol, I don't even drive hard the M3.

If there is something else or any other suggestions, please let me know. I'm very open for suggestions.

Thanks

[Will]

Congrats!

Maybe a DISA upgrade from G.A.S. (link (https://germanautosolutions.com/products/bmw-products-by-category/bmw-disa-products/bmw-disa-repair-kit/)) and both VANOS seals and rattle kit from Raj at Beisan (link (http://www.beisansystems.com/products.html)).

Auto trans filter and fluid.

Check the intake boot for cracks or tears.

[John in VA]

Replace tensioners with the belts.
No need for a radiator or coil packs yet.

[fredo]

Congrats, sir. I was going to suggest tranny fluid, like Will says.

[pedro2u]

I'd check those front control arm bushings. Mine were replaced at 77K miles. May want to check how old your battery is too

[wellcraft]

Congrats!

Maybe a DISA upgrade from G.A.S. (link (https://germanautosolutions.com/products/bmw-products-by-category/bmw-disa-products/bmw-disa-repair-kit/)) and both VANOS seals and rattle kit from Raj at Beisan (link (http://www.beisansystems.com/products.html)).

Auto trans filter and fluid.

Check the intake boot for cracks or tears.


Replace tensioners with the belts.
No need for a radiator or coil packs yet.


Congrats, sir. I was going to suggest tranny fluid, like Will says.


I'd check those front control arm bushings. Mine were replaced at 77K miles. May want to check how old your battery is too

Thanks you guys for all the suggestions, the only thing I'm concerned about is doing a transmission fluid change as I have heard mix opinion. I have never done it on any of my cars as I heard that sometimes the transmission starts acting funny after fluid change. I remember back in the 90's my friend's dad took it for service and after that is started slipping, before that it was great and I know that because it was the car we used drive around. So that is why I'm worried about doing it, I have read about this before in other car forums and it seems that some people feel the same way.

[Will]

I understand your concern, but I've never had any problems after changing the fluid in any of the three e46s.

A couple important points to possibly consider:
- Flush the entire system flush (about 8L of fluid), rather than just dropping the pan (3-4L). This involves disconnecting the AT cooling return line and cranking the engine/trans to push new fluid through. I don't think new fluid and old fluid play nicely (especially if different mfg of fluid).
- After filling, start the car and shift through each gear, to circulate the new fluid.
- Ensure the fluid level is correct (transmission/fluid needs to be at a certain temp (i think 100F) when filling, and needs to be level) before sealing the fill-plug.

Lots of good fluid options, too, including Valvoline Maxlife (probably the least costly option, but lots of good reviews), Liquimoly, Mobil1, Redline. I used Redline.

If you take it to a shop, just ensure they're trustworthy and have done the complete flush before.

[John in VA]

If you take it to a shop, just ensure they're trustworthy and have done the complete flush before.
We had the fluid changed at 60k & 120k in my wife's 2000 328i. The auto tranny used the Texaco fluid from BMW, so we had an indy shop use the BG exchange/flush machine that removes the fluid, cleans & conditions the system & replaces the fluid, like a transfusion!

https://bglsi.com/BGProducts_Oklahoma_Texas/images/PDF/9242_-314_Application_Chart.pdf

[Archbid]

There are zero risks with changing your fluid. Normal change interval should be about 100k miles, but your car is quite old now. I think the recent consensus is that if your transmission is shot the change may expose it, but it doesn't harm the transmission, and you definitely don't want the original stuff in there forever.

Here is my take on maintenance based on both mileage and age:

The original maintenance schedules were great, but they failed to take into account the effects of age on our cars, especially the rubber bits. After maintaining my car to 200k, and after refreshing 3 more, I came up with this guide.

If you are asking "what should I do at xx miles", also ask "what should I do at xx years". For example, your M54 may have only 75k miles, but its CVV and vacuum system looks like a 150k mileage car. Both engines that I refreshed were at 125k, and both had major maintenance needs.

I also attached a chart by time/mileage, and indicated those items where the dates are suggestive, but no need to do until they are obviously gone.

Inspection I 60k
Inspection II 60k
Oil & filter change 7.5k
Air filter 2yrs/30k
Cabin filter 1yr/15k
Fuel Filter 60k

Fluids
Flush Brakes 2yrs/30k​
Flush Cooling system 3yrs/50k​
Flush Power Steering 50k (complete flush at 150k with new hoses)​
Flush Differential 4yrs/60k (Unless you drive significant miles per year, changing differential oil can possibly have some 15K miles added to it, once you notice (last change) that it looked almost new when changing it out. thanks, MrMcar)​
Flush Manual Trans 4yrs/60k​
Flush Auto Trans 5yrs/100k​

Fuel Pump 125k

O2 Sensor/MAF
O2 125k (for wideband)​
MAF 150k​

Belts/Pulleys 4yr/60k
Water Pump/Thermostat 8yr/120k (every other cooling hose job)

Cooling Hoses
Upper and Lower radiator hoses(4yrs/60k)​
Hard lines (10yrs/150k)​
Heater hoses 170k​
Expansion Tank and filler cap 100k​
Radiator 125k​
​
Intake
DISA service (100k)​
Vacuum hoses and seals (10yrs/125k)​
Gasket (150k)​
CVV (8yrs/100k)​
Clean idle control valve / ICV (10yrs/125k)​
Throttle body - unknown, suggestion of 225-250k​
​
Ignition/Power
Alternator 100k​
Starter Motor 125k (note, 1999/2002 "big" starter does not need PM replacement)​
Battery 3yrs​
Coils as they fail​
Plugs 100k​
Ignition switch 175k​
​
Brakes
Pads - as needed (80k)​
Rotors - Every or every other pad replacement​
Brake lines - soft (175k/12 yrs)​
Brake lines - hard 200k​
Calipers pistons and seals 200k​
​
Suspension
FCAB 80k​
Shocks/struts 125k​
RTAB, FCA 150k​
Front sway bar end links 150k​
Rear subframe and control arm bushings 175-200k​
​
Engine
VANOS seals 75k (use Beisan for longer interval)​
Valve Cover Gasket 100k​
Oil Filter Housing Gasket 100k​
Engine Mounts 150k​
Oil pan 150k​
​
Drivetrain
Flex disc 125k​
CSB 150k (easier to just do with Flex disc)​
Differential mounts 150k (especially rear - fronts last longer)​
Transmission mounts 150k​
​
Steering
Steering Giubo (150k/10 years)​
Pressure hose (150k/10 yrs)​
Reservoir hoses (150k/10 yrs)​
End links 175k​