Dinan stage 2 software and CAI

[E46Fan]

Is anyone here running Dinan stage 2 software along with their CAI on your ZHP? Seems like a quality setup. I would enjoy hearing your feedback.

https://www.dinancars.com/products/software-tuning/engine-tuning/engine-software/stage-2-engine-software/parts/D903-3032

https://modbargains.com/dinan-aluminum-cold-air-intake-system-for-2001-2006-bmw-330i-325i-zhp-e46/

http://files.dinancars.com/webresources/datasheets/7a0ad5e89c1339ede301f095cdb20e8a.pdf

[3ZHP]

Is anyone here running Dinan stage 2 software along with their CAI on your ZHP? Seems like a quality setup. I would enjoy hearing your feedback.

https://www.dinancars.com/products/software-tuning/engine-tuning/engine-software/stage-2-engine-software/parts/D903-3032

https://modbargains.com/dinan-aluminum-cold-air-intake-system-for-2001-2006-bmw-330i-325i-zhp-e46/

http://files.dinancars.com/webresources/datasheets/7a0ad5e89c1339ede301f095cdb20e8a.pdf

I looked into it many years ago and never found what the actual gains were. I then talked with a DINAN/BMW tech that had installed a few of them. His opinion was that I didn’t do much at all and wasn’t worth the money.

I also later, took a test drive in a ZHP that EAG had for sale with; CAI, Throttle-body and Stage III. That was a BIG disappointment. My ZHP with the DINAN CAI and Turner under drive pulleys was and still is far more responsive. Note; I also had my 30 ish year old (at the time) son and son in law/car guys with me in the test drive and we all concurred.

That being said, I never bothered with it.


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[E46Fan]

My ZHP with the DINAN CAI and Turner under drive pulleys was and still is far more responsive.

Hmm, that is disappointing to hear, but very good info to know. Thank you. I really like the design of the Dinan CAI and was really hoping the pairing with the software would actually add some power and torque.

Based on your feedback, it seems the Dinan CAI really adds nothing. Its amazing how many people spend big money on a wide range of different models of CAI's but really all they do is change the sound. Sooo much debate on this topic.

I am now starting to lean more towards the Shark Injector. According to Turner, the ZHP seems to have the best real world gain;
https://1c2a8a2161d644d95009-22d26b38e78c173d82b3a9a01c774ffa.ssl.cf1.rackcdn.c om/image/dyno/ZHP.pdf

Perhaps the injector is the best place to start, then add on under drive pulleys along with something like Pedal Box. Seems like people like the response curve of Pedal Box over the Sprint booster.

[E46Fan]

Hmm, more research on the Shark. Might not be the way to go after all;

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?21579-Shark-Injector-Worth-it

https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/psa-dont-buy-a-shark-tune.1224198/

https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/bombshell-shark-injector-on-330i-zhp-loses-power-dyno-proven.1176289/

Perhaps pulleys and PB?

[holyc0w]

Hmm, more research on the Shark. Might not be the way to go after all;

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?21579-Shark-Injector-Worth-it

https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/psa-dont-buy-a-shark-tune.1224198/

https://www.e46fanatics.com/threads/bombshell-shark-injector-on-330i-zhp-loses-power-dyno-proven.1176289/

Perhaps pulleys and PB?

Yeah, there are no easy gains for this motor. You get relatively little gain for the money you have to pay.

CAI could add a few ponies, but let's say it adds 2-4 HP on the top end. Can people really notice that just driving around? The induction noise difference would probably be more noticeable.

Underdrive pulleys are similar.

Exhaust will get you a better sound and a few pounds less weight. There may be a pony or two there. Though they're pretty pricey, so the main benefit is the sound.

Current Shark tune is questionable. It seems like it would be best to seek other tunes.

Most of these items kind of chip away a bit at the performance, but may build up to something that you want.

Headers can get you good gains, but then you have to worry about the labor and emissions.


It's mainly deciding on what you want and an acceptable price point.

[3ZHP]

I just checked some of my history and the pulleys have been on for 10 years now. They did make a significant difference when installed. Never had an issue with them except, my recent power steering pump failure. After ten years, I don’t think it’s related.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201128/8a82a686a0a0d7e60a1eaa66b4324200.jpg


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[JPMo]

Theres also the electronic fan swap which I've heard frees up some of the parasitic loss. Haven't installed it yet, but it is on the list.

[BMWCurves]

For the Shark Injector, I noticed not really a change in power, but a better throttle response. A few others have noted that. Again, anecdotal, but I appreciated the change personally.

I did not notice a massive improvement with my Turner Power Pulleys (shocker), but again, a small increase.

[Galapolis]

So after I switched to E5 at the gas station and reset my throttle pedal, the throttle response became absolutely insane. @ZHPizza can confirm. I would try that before spending money on tunes and other stuff that may or may not help.

[E46Fan]

Greatly appreciate all the experienced feedback. Sounds like a good place to begin is the Pedalbox to get the most immediate and obvious change in how the car performs.

Seems like folks really prefer Pedalbox over SB:
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?10071-PedalBox-and-SprintBooster!&highlight=pedalbox

So the other conclusion I am getting from my reading related to bolt on performance for the ZHP is to combine headers, CAI, plus perhaps a larger throttle body, then find someone who really knows their BMW engine mapping and pay for a custom tune based on your specific car. Shark ain't gonna get it.

Active Autowerk headers (Supersprint too much $$, ebay headers too much re-welding), secondary O2 angle mod, SAP delete, new studs, gaskets, etc. Just parts at least $850.
Perhaps labor for install $500 (I do most of my own wrenching, but 15 years of NE winters has me reluctant to get into studs breaking off!)
Dinan CAI $250
Dinan throttle body $860
Pulleys $230
Custom tune based on dyno runs $500??

So that is about $3,190 or so to get what, ~20-25 increase in power and torque each? That is pretty pricey even if the increase is in low end torque that follows the entire RPM range.

Quite a bummer compared to the later turbo'ed models that can change the intercooler, some piping and a few other hardware pieces coupled with a custom tune and get 50-100 horses for perhaps $2,000.

[Galapolis]

You don't even need a Pedal Box IMO. Literally just reset your throttle. You'll be amazed how responsive it will be.

Instead of spending 3k, it would be better to spend $100 and get a 3.38 diff. Combine that with a new stock Mahle (not Mann or Hengst) air filter, maybe some stiffer engine and trans mounts and I can guarantee you will not recognize the car. Fuel system cleaning along with a new fuel filter can also yield very good results (regain 10hp that were lost).

Once you've done all of the above and still feel like you need more, you can start with stuff like headers and maybe some lightweight pistons. Also why spend $860 on a probably useless Dinan throttle body (I think very lowly of Dinan) when you can get a proven-to-work and much cheaper Pizzabody?

[johnrando]

I still like eirher the PB or SB. When the PB came out, it had 5 adjustments to the SBs 3, so people liked fhe Pb. Both now have multiple adjustments so I think either wld be fine. Neither changes actual performance, just the feel of the throttle response.

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[E46Fan]

You don't even need a Pedal Box IMO. Literally just reset your throttle. You'll be amazed how responsive it will be.

Instead of spending 3k, it would be better to spend $100 and get a 3.38 diff. Combine that with a new stock Mahle (not Mann or Hengst) air filter, maybe some stiffer engine and trans mounts and I can guarantee you will not recognize the car. Fuel system cleaning along with a new fuel filter can also yield very good results (regain 10hp that were lost).

Once you've done all of the above and still feel like you need more, you can start with stuff like headers and maybe some lightweight pistons. Also why spend $860 on a probably useless Dinan throttle body (I think very lowly of Dinan) when you can get a proven-to-work and much cheaper Pizzabody?

First thing I did after purchase was replace all fluids, including tranny and diff, and replaced the fuel filter. Plus a long list of standard maintenance stuff. Also, all new brakes, front control arms, poly FCAB, M3 RTABs, and Koni suspension. See the pic where I stopped at BavAuto (RIP) on my way home with the car after purchase.

Ok, three questions:
1.) How does one reset the throttle map?
2.) $100 and get a 3.38 diff? Interested to know how to get one that cheap. I suppose an AT part out, but I suspect it would be prudent to tear it down and replace all the seals. Also need to be careful on mileage.
3.) Pizzabody? spelling? Google is confused.

37490

[Galapolis]

1.) How does one reset the throttle map?
2.) $100 and get a 3.38 diff? Interested to know how to get one that cheap. I suppose an AT part out, but I suspect it would be prudent to tear it down and replace all the seals. Also need to be careful on mileage.
3.) Pizzabody? spelling? Google is confused.


There's a guide here for resetting the pedal box: https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/throttle-body-adaptation-reset-how-to-program-your-e46-to-rev-a-lot-faster.927646/

You can grab a 3.38 from a part out or Craigslist or whatever. I've seen several 3.38s on Craigslist over the years for about $100. I don't think you need to tear it down, I would just find one with similar mileage as yours and do a straight swap.

The Pizzabody can be found here: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?15714-William-s-330Ci-ZHP-Maintenance-and-Project-Thread&p=601123#post601123

[JPMo]

You don't even need a Pedal Box IMO. Literally just reset your throttle. You'll be amazed how responsive it will be.

Instead of spending 3k, it would be better to spend $100 and get a 3.38 diff. Combine that with a new stock Mahle (not Mann or Hengst) air filter, maybe some stiffer engine and trans mounts and I can guarantee you will not recognize the car. Fuel system cleaning along with a new fuel filter can also yield very good results (regain 10hp that were lost).

Why Mahle specifically? I never knew there was a difference

[Galapolis]

Why Mahle specifically? I never knew there was a difference

I thought all the filters were the same too so I always bought Mann because everyone says to buy it. But out of curiosity I bought the Mahle once and it noticeably improved throttle response and I've just been sticking to it since. It looks and feels higher quality than the Mann too.

[JPMo]

I thought all the filters were the same too so I always bought Mann because everyone says to buy it. But out of curiosity I bought the Mahle once and it noticeably improved throttle response and I've just been sticking to it since. It looks and feels higher quality than the Mann too.

About to buy one right now! Good to know

[holyc0w]

From what I remember the throttle reset goes away pretty quickly like within 50 miles. At least that's what it seemed like when I did the Shark injector. I don't know if this procedure lasts longer, but I would assume it doesn't. It felt good after the reset, but it didn't seem like a long-term solution.

[Galapolis]

From what I remember the throttle reset goes away pretty quickly like within 50 miles. At least that's what it seemed like when I did the Shark injector. I don't know if this procedure lasts longer, but I would assume it doesn't. It felt good after the reset, but it didn't seem like a long-term solution.

Mine has stayed the same and I did it over 1000 miles ago. It relearns based on your driving. I do smash the throttle like an on/off button for rev matching on every drive, so the computer probably keeps it at maximum aggression because of that.

[E46Fan]

There's a guide here for resetting the pedal box: https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/throttle-body-adaptation-reset-how-to-program-your-e46-to-rev-a-lot-faster.927646/

You can grab a 3.38 from a part out or Craigsllist or whatever. I've seen several 3.38s on Craigslist over the years for about $100. I don't think you need to tear it down, I would just find one with similar mileage as yours and do a straight swap.

The Pizzabody can be found here: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showthread.php?15714-William-s-330Ci-ZHP-Maintenance-and-Project-Thread&p=601123#post601123

Most excellent, thank you!!! I'll most definitely try the reset. Will need to do some more thinking about next steps.

Interesting about the Mahle filter, may need to try one. PO put in an aFe that fits stock box. I cannot tell any difference between it and Mann filter. Not a fan of the aFe, based on the oil it needs and seepage on the MAF (perhaps I over loaded it).

[holyc0w]

Mine has stayed the same and I did it over 1000 miles ago. It relearns based on your driving. I do smash the throttle like an on/off button for rev matching on every drive, so the computer probably keeps it at maximum aggression because of that.

Yep, that's probably it. I was probably back to burbling along in traffic.

[E46Fan]

Well, the peddle reset certainly made a difference. Much to like there. Guess I have been driving too much like a grand pappy. Need to get my hooligan on!