Need help with vacuum lines

[phillipjfry]

Hi,

Pulled my intake manifold off to replace my PCV. I keep hearing to replace the vac lines while I'm in there. But I dont see any... all the ports are plugged on my manifold. There was one 2" degraded vac line that I replaced, but that's it.

Please help.

Also I'm replacing the hard coolant lines, coolant sensor in the block, and starter under Mafia suggestion.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191102/07d3e516e3111ab1e04ebfcff251fa7b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191102/49c25a0a22aaadfe95af61c74f488735.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191102/e5f6d89719c56998ab8efe787151fb4e.jpg

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[phillipjfry]

Well it's all back together. Plus side it fired right up after fuel delivery, and no immediate CEL's. Didnt find any more degraded vacuum lines, and didnt do the starter. Nowhere local sells an E12 wrench. I didnt want to risk stripping the bolts using the wrong stuff.
The job took longer than I anticipated, usually does. Some of those components are a real pain in the D to remove, and reinstall.
Next time I think I can shave my time in half.

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[John in VA]

The vacuum line from the valve near the SAP deteriorates from heat. The vacuum "system" travels along the passenger's side of the head, crosses the back & attaches to other valves on the rear driver's side.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BN53-USA-09_1999_E46_BMW_330Ci&diagId=11_2203#11657803732

[Vas]

On the later M54 cars, there is not that many vacuum lines under the manifold.

There are the 3 ports on the backside, 1 hose for the evap and 1 hose for the brake booster. The Secondary air pump no longer has a line going to it from the manifold like on the earlier cars. Some people run a line from the back of the manifold port to the CCV system as a mod for oil consumption.

BTW that large vacuum plug looks to be cracked in your second picture. I would suggest replacing all 3 of them and it can be done with the manifold still installed on the engine.

In regards to the starter bolts, it is easier to remove them from under the car with long extensions and a swivel. Also suggest replacing the fuel line the crankshaft sensor while you are in there. Just something to keep in mind next time you are removing the manifold.

[phillipjfry]

Thanks Vas. I saw that plug. I rigged it for now, used some RTV on the cracked plug.
I'll be replacing the DISA. It has a pretty good hissing now, along with some new rattling. Or maybe I just never noticed it before. The gasket was completely flat when I reinstalled it though. Having trouble buying a rebuild kit from GAS, so I might just buy a new one from FCP.

Just topped off the coolant again. It dropped a tad bit today after initiall fill up.
Thanks for the future maintenance ideas, I think...

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[Vas]

Thanks Vas. I saw that plug. I rigged it for now, used some RTV on the cracked plug.
I'll be replacing the DISA. It has a pretty good hissing now, along with some new rattling. Or maybe I just never noticed it before. The gasket was completely flat when I reinstalled it though. Having trouble buying a rebuild kit from GAS, so I might just buy a new one from FCP.

Just topped off the coolant again. It dropped a tad bit today after initiall fill up.
Thanks for the future maintenance ideas, I think...

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using TapatalkG.a.s is the best option for a disa rebuild. They are very responsive to emails as well.

Also with the engine running, unplug the disa and plug it back up. Might get rid of the weird rattle

Btw vaccum plug part numbers are 11611437560
And 11611727176

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[phillipjfry]

G.a.s is the best option for a disa rebuild. They are very responsive to emails as well.

Also with the engine running, unplug the disa and plug it back up. Might get rid of the weird rattle

Btw vaccum plug part numbers are 11611437560
And 11611727176

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using TapatalkGAS is super responsive. I kept having troubles, he returned my email on the west coast at 1830pst.

Ended up able to buy a rebuild kit. Thanks for the part #

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