PDA

View Full Version : Zionsville low temp thermostat vs oem elec puller fan (2006 ZHP a/t)



OC570
08-25-2019, 11:48 AM
I want to replace my water pump with a Stewart, & replace the factory thermostat with a Zionsville
lower temp (80deg C =176F) & I want to replace the mechanical puller fan with a oem 6spd puller.
Question, do I need to reprogram the computer so it will turn on the elec fan at a lower temp than
what the factory wanted (much hotter).
I'm trying to think this through before I buy all the parts, it seems like the new pump & thermostat
will initially make the water cooler but not for long because the factory electric fan settings wont allow
the fan to turn on until the water reaches the hot temp the factory wants.
Any advice is much appreciated, as I'm not sure what to do next .

And to complicate maters, I would like to retain my front pusher fan. I read the thread on this board by >
Mechanical Fan to Electric Fan Swap (Automatic's) doityourself I think its really good & accurate info But
where I live,last summer it was 117deg, I just cant believe only one puller fan could do the job.
I was going to wire up the front pusher fan with a separate toggle switch or get a aftermarket adjustable
thermostat and set the turn on temp where needed.
Any thoughts ?
Thanks !

DeathTrap
08-25-2019, 03:14 PM
What is your goal behind doing these mods? Did your engine overheat or run hot at any point during the summer?

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

OC570
08-26-2019, 09:30 AM
My goal is to replace the pump & thermostat because they are original (110k) I just bought the car 2 wks ago, I'm going through
it end to end, doing a cooling system, brake, suspension refresh, & trans fluid flush.
To answer your question did it get to hot ? I don't know because I'm suppose to trust that worthless temp gauge in the dash.
Knowing that BMW likes to make the E46's run extra hot (a well known fact) I'm trying to get a handle on exactly what is taking place
and have the ability to make some adjustments as needed.

az3579
08-26-2019, 09:42 AM
To answer your question did it get to hot ? I don't know because I'm suppose to trust that worthless temp gauge in the dash.
Knowing that BMW likes to make the E46's run extra hot (a well known fact) I'm trying to get a handle on exactly what is taking place
and have the ability to make some adjustments as needed.

This is not true; it's not much different (if at all) than any other car. The temperatures on my car with an OE-spec thermostat are right around 95 degrees Celcius, which falls into a normal temperature range that other cars run at. You aren't really gaining anything by installing a lower temp thermostat.

As for the gauge - you can solve that problem by buying a BMW Scanner 1.4 tool (around $40 IIRC?) and coding your gauge cluster to read an accurate temperature reading. This will also give you the ability to code all kinds of cool stuff, as well as read any errors that any of your car's modules may throw.

My temp gauge is dead accurate now that I've corrected it, and I'm sure the numerous other people I've coded this for can agree. If you go this route I can provide instructions on how to do this.

DeathTrap
08-26-2019, 10:11 AM
That^^^

I have recoded the IKE and notice that my temps actually run cooler at times than I would have thought. I do have a Stewart water pump and G.A.S lower pressure cap with O.E. thermostat and have had zero issues with cooling for 3+ years.

If you want to see your actual temp for free, there is a setting in the cluster that displays your real-time coolant temp. It sounds like you don't have a problem at the moment, but want to do some preventative things. I would definitely do the expansion tank if it's original. The OEM water pump design is also fine, I would pick it if I had to redo my cooling system again.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

OC570
08-26-2019, 11:36 AM
az3579,
Can you take a quick look at this link and tell me if this tool would work ?
https://www.amazon.com/Diagnostic-Scanner-Unlock-Version-Diagnsotic/dp/B07M9JJQHP/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=BMW+Scanner+1.4+tool&qid=1566845613&s=gateway&sr=8-13
I would very much appreciate your instructions on how to do it :)
Thank you !

OC570
08-26-2019, 11:48 AM
DeathTrap,
I had to Google what an IKE was , apparently its the instrument cluster, lol ..
Should I google on how to access the info you speak of (actual temp for free, there is a setting in the cluster that displays your real-time coolant temp)
Correct no current problems, just doing some repairs from the high mileage & some preventative maintenance & yes on expansion tank ! & pulleys, tensioners
etc,
Thanks :)

OC570
08-26-2019, 11:54 AM
I still need to know if getting the scan tool will enable me to reprogram when the electric fan kicks on ? :dunno

az3579
08-26-2019, 12:02 PM
az3579,
Can you take a quick look at this link and tell me if this tool would work ?
https://www.amazon.com/Diagnostic-Scanner-Unlock-Version-Diagnsotic/dp/B07M9JJQHP/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=BMW+Scanner+1.4+tool&qid=1566845613&s=gateway&sr=8-13
I would very much appreciate your instructions on how to do it :)
Thank you !

That appears to be the tool, but that is way overpriced.
A member on here sells them. Send a PM to user 'tnhl1989' and he'll hook you up with one. I think they're half that price, but I don't remember exactly. He can also provide support on getting the software installed.

As for coding the temp gauge, I can provide the instructions for that, just hit me up on PM when you're ready.


DeathTrap,
I had to Google what an IKE was , apparently its the instrument cluster, lol ..
Should I google on how to access the info you speak of (actual temp for free, there is a setting in the cluster that displays your real-time coolant temp)
Correct no current problems, just doing some repairs from the high mileage & some preventative maintenance & yes on expansion tank ! & pulleys, tensioners
etc,
Thanks :)

The cluster function DeathTrap was referring to is a function that is a one-time thing. You access it and it'll display as long as the ignition is on. Once you shut off the ignition and turn it back on again, the OBC will be back to normal until you go through the process again. Coding the gauge is easier because it'll always be there, but this method is good in a pinch when you need to diagnose something.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wjKt0ZQBV2U

OC570
08-26-2019, 12:26 PM
az3579,
Thanks for the heads up on (user 'tnhl1989') I'm on it ..
re: coding the temp gauge, I can provide the instructions for that -- excellent & thanks !
re:Deathtraps one time function -- understood ..
& thanks for the link :)